Lilly...sorry for the aggravation of repeated comments but my edit function is not working...I just refinished my Mora Triflex because they aren't made anymore so its time for more Mora😁i used 600 grit wet dry with WD40, ONE DIRECTION on the flats of the blade to remove scratches etc, then 1000 grit same way, then FLITZ. other than honest wear it looks brand new. I used my Spyderco TSM white triangle stones by hand to true up the Scandi. I've had the same TSM for 20 years. If you don't chip or break a Spyderco stone they last longer than we do!
Come on, Lilly, this is the Ruixin Pro, a cheap Chinese sharpening system, sold by this company itsjustsharp for double the price. This is misleading your viewers. You should not be advertising for itsjustsharp, you are better than that.
@@paololindeman6916 If you don't like it than buy the other one. Someone has to pay the bills so unless you want to write her a check keep your negativity to yourself. No one cares.
I been sharpening knives 🔪 by hand 🤚 with a whetstone and with very fine files and ceramic stone along with leather. Been doing it by hand for 45 years & I can make them so sharp if you look 👀 at the Blade the wrong way it’ll cut your eyesight😉 👍😁👍
I'm going to be 💯 completely honest . I watched this video just to hear Lilly say sharpining stones . Love that accent and I learned a different way to create and sharpen convex edged . Thank you Lilly
WOW I never actually knew about the convex style grind-- I like that a lot! And it makes a lot of sense why it would be stronger than the others, since there is more metal to back up the cutting edge at every angle of slice. Thank you so much for the vid!
Try to use petroleum jelly with the sharpening stone, heat the petroleum jelly and let it melt for the stone to absorb says a Brazilian knife maker who is very good for sharpening
So much good information. I already know how to sharpen a blade, as do most of your viewers, but there is so much good information beyond that in this video.
22:06, yes Lilly, the knife cutting edge needs to be moving .Lengthwise. along the whetstone while the knife cutting edge is moving crosswise. When you begin working the knife cutting edge on the whetstone, be sure to move it sideways too, don't hold it in one section. Otherwise it will wear the nerf along the sharp edge as you noticed. A machinist would say the sharp edge needs to be moved along the X axis while being moved along the Y axis. Thanks, I learned some things.
Thank you for showing us correct ways to sharpen knives. The video you did the the ItsJustSharp tool was great. Awesome how you made your own surface to fit into that tool! Glad to know the different types of edges and that one is more stable than the others. I didn't realize there are so many different materials that knives could be used to sharpen! Thank you!
I free hand sharpen with flat stones similar to the way you do it, however, I find that using honing oil, especially on the very coarser grit stones makes for a smoother way of drawing the knife across the stone thus making it easier to maintain the proper angle. For kitchen knives I find that drawing the knife across the stone in an angled "cutting" motion makes for a better edge. Always finish with a finer stone for a really keen edge. A barber friend of mine gave me a used strop which works great for de-burring the edge. For axes I use one of those "pucks" that have a different grit on each side. I soak those in water first. I have never used a diamond stone but would like to try. Thanks for sharing your technique, Lilly!
You are a life saver Lilly! I was about to die after watching that my hockey team lost the series and saw that you had a new video and now I’m feeling much better. Great video and great info! Thanks as always from California
As with so many things Lilly inspires me to look into, I hope this sparks a desire to learn more about this fascinating topic. Imagine, for a moment, in times long ago, making metal sharp. Entire families would roam the European countryside to offer their skills as knife sharpeners. Also interesting is the process similar to Lilly making the stone flat again. How this was accomplished prior to having a flat reference surface to work on, is a terrific story. Thanks Lilly. Great to see you wearing PPE when working with the stone dust.
I use an oil stone that I got for sharpening chisels etc 40 years ago . I no longer have a need for chisels but use the same stone for my hatchet and knives also a wet stone that my wife had for jewellers engraving tools., Stone in one hand and knife rested on my knee I can make a razor edge as you showed shaving arm hair. My knives are used for skinning and butchering deer. Knife sharpening as you have shown depends on the blade form. I have recently acquired a Scandi grind knife for bushcraft and will need to adapt or change my technique. Many thanks for you help and insight.
You know what I found out? Best way to get metal residue off the stones is the dish soap and sponge 😋 (weird). I tried everything before metal brush to all kinds of scubbers and nothing worked before.
Bar keepers friend cleaner and a greenie pad...non metallic scrubber is what I use on all my ceramic stuff. I've had the same Spyderco TSM for 20 years and that thing looks like it did the day I bought it after I do this. Works on diamonds too but you have to make sure they are COMPLETELY dry before you store them
I've been hand sharpening knives for many years. One of my best stones is a Spyderco ceramic stone like you were using. It is about 25 years old and still is an excellent tool. I clean it periodically with a powder cleanser, stiff bristle brush and hot water to remove the metal fines.
Wow, this is a late night upload. Those all look awesome, have a few different sharpeners. I like my belt-powered easysharp, but I usually just use stones. It's hard to stray from the good ole standby of stones. However, I think that "itsjustsharp" system looks fantastic. ~ All the best my friend, Tschuss ~
Use a kitchen powdered cleanser like Comet and water to clean your ceramic stones or they will plug up with the swarf (bits of metal from the knife and ceramic from the stone) I use oil or at least water to float the swarf off the stone to keep it from plugging up. I have diamond stone 20 years old that feel perfectly smooth but still work just fine. You need to wash the stones for your sharpening system with the cleanser also they are pretty plugged up also. I would use those with oil also. I just use mineral oil it works great and is food safe as well as cheap. You will find your stones will work much better clean.
I like to use natural stones for sharpening. I use a belgian coticule for honing razors and have recently started using them for my knives. Even though they are flat, i think they would work well for your convex edges. For me, freehand sharpening is more enjoyable than using devices to assist me. you are right though, for someone just learning, a device like this looks very useful.
I used to have a cracking set of Gerber stones (that someone decided they wanted more than I did 😡) but I've used regular stones for decades. Rather than getting the finest grits, I would do the final prep before stropping on the edge of my car window... works better than you'd think 😁
The more you use your diamond Stone, the smoother it will become. it will not be so aggressive & will be a little more forgiving. I have a little Diamond stone that I've had for 25 years. It still works good but, just takes a little bit more work!
I like the idea of consistant angle with rod guides. A beginner and a pro can get the desired same sharpness. Drawback is you have to buy their stones and not your choice. But.. you will get consistently excellent results.
If you are using 1 x6 stones "Edgepro" style they will work with TSPROF, Hapstone, and many other brands of sharpeners. Wicked Edge is the brand that makes you use the stones they manufacture. KME uses 1x4 stones you can use any 1 x4 with the system.
What is best really depends on the person and their level of skill...A good bench stone set with stone holder is a must have if you're doing convex edges along with a good set of diamond plates for stone maintenance.....that clamp set is very similar to the KME in functionality...I do like the wider clamp though, and it looks like I'd be able to use my KME stones I already have a substantial investment in.....your DIY convex gadget has the right idea behind it....instead of sponge, use a piece of rubber (shore hardness of around 50) as your backing...you'll need to glue it to something hard to work in the stone mount...a bit more sturdy, but still gives enough to produce the convex edge.....also...use water on your stones as you're sharpening...even the diamond stones...they will last a lot longer
Lily, I have used one DMT "stone" for 29 years now. It has not worn at all as far as I can tell. The material you pointed out is common, but it is from the knife, not the stone.
Darken the edge of the knife with a magic marker, it will make it easier to determine the correct angle. My own choice of sharpening stones are diamond stones, as I find they do a faster job of sharpening high wear resistance steels like CPM 20CV and D2 than standard stones.
A diamond stone, no matter how fine, will leave a microscopic serrated edge. It is best to finish with a regular hard fine stone and maybe even a strop. A diamond stone is excellent for the initial stages of sharpening, especially on a duller blade. A diamond stone will remove material faster than a classic sharpening stone.
I have seen various recommendations on techniques for sharpening, back and forth, edge forward, and edge trailing. I have noticed that regardless a final edge trailing sharpening is best. So maybe back and forth to set the edge (for a very worn edge), edge forward or trailing to set the edge and a final edge trailing for the finish.
A convex edge is best for heavy cutting tasks (which is most in an outdoor/survival situation) however maintaining a convex edge is more difficult. Any “razor” edge will dull quickly regardless of the knives steel and should only be used for finer tasks (food prep). For packability diamond stones are generally lighter weight (the base is plastic with a diamond coating) and are generally fine for heavy use edges. Even a small diamond “steel” is good for a bugout bag where space is a premium. For camp type settings where space is more plentiful a set of diamond stones with maybe a couple of classic stones for finishing will do you fine. It is best to learn how to sharpen manually on a flat stone rather than the sharpening aids (as shown or other Lansky type (not sure who had it first)). If you can do it on a flat stone you can even use a found flat stone for sharpening in a pinch.
@@primordial_platypus One of my best chef's knives is a cheap chinese made stainless steel knife that has held an edge for years. All I have to do is use a steel once in awhile and the edge comes back to razor sharp. I have no idea how it remains sharp indefinitely.
@@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017 A kitchen knife is much easier to keep sharp as they are not subject to the abuse of an outdoor/camp/survival knife. Kitchen knives can also be hardened higher than a camp knife. They will be harder to sharpen once dull but as you have found out a regular steeling can keep them sharp almost indefinitely. You would not have the same results if you used that knife to chop wood, cut bone, and generally use it in abrasive (I.e. dirt) environment. Even if you use the knife in a household to cut packaging, cardboard, strip/cut wire, etc. it will not perform as well. Camp knives are hardened to a softer point simply because it is easier to sharpen to an acceptable edge given the harsh environment that will dull any blade quickly. The only knives in my kitchen set (Wustoff) that ever need to see a stone are the steak knives which are the only ones used against a hard surface (ceramic plates). The rest have seen a stone only twice in their 30 years of use.
Hi Lilly, if I may offer a suggestion, put down a piece of glass then you send paper and rub in a figure eight pattern, its home they lab fuel injector parts because they have to be dead flat
Mine is the best😎 cos i got it from a dear friend. And way back i learned how to sharpen tools. Even a saw is no problem for me🤘 love your channel! Stay safe and healthy everyone out there ☮️
Before risking to scratch the blade, I would stick multiple stripes of tape on both sides of the blunt edge on the paralel surfaces almost near thd cutting edge. For a convex edge I would rather grind three strokes on a fix angle, next three strokes a few degrees tilt. So I would have more control and uniformity grinding. The last passes just with low pressure for a smooth convex form. But saving the secondary angle (maybe 40*) for last, on the finest stone. But that’s just me, that sometimes sharpens his santoku and nakiri on wetstone (1000/3000, secondaty angle at about 25*)
A bit of Windex window cleaner will help keep your Spyderco stones and diamond stones cleaner while sharpening. Spyderco white fine grit stones and DMT continuous surface stones never dish..Spyderco brown stones can wear slightly over time
For lower carbide steels like 154cm, vg10 and everything lower(also prefer them on zdp 189) I use either Shapton pro stones or edge pro stones. For higher carbide steels I use Venev diamond stones and Edge pro diamond matrix stones. I switch between guided system and free hand sharpening. Then I strop on kangaroo leather or basswood with diamond sprays or emulsions.
all of that is very reasonable. i like the Shapton as well for on steels like you said, low alloy and chromium steels including zd189. but only for doing edges. for wider bevels I dont like to use those as they dont work great. the glass or naniwa chosera is better for wider bevels but they can also do edges, so they're more well rounded. Anyway for for vanadium steels, I was using SIC stones. which work just fine. tons of choices in the lower grits but my go to was always the 1k sigma select. which is green sic. Recently got the king neo 800 which is also green sic and cost me half as much as the others so thats the move. As far as bonded diamond IMO the Naniwa bonded diamond stones are better than either the Venev or the Edge matrix only issue is they don't have anything less than 400 grit. Which I guess is fine because even alumina works on vanadium steels in such course grits. But. a good low grit diamond bonded stone is a beast like nothing else. The ones i know of are the venev, the edge matrix and the nanohone which makes a 200 um one that is I think softer than the others and seems interesting. I just use a low grit sic stone or even an atoma for this use but i would like to get a very course bonded diamond stone. only thing is the diamond sprays or emulsions. are all over cost scams imo. you can get the same stuff in generic industrial form for literally CENTS on the dollar. You can get 5 grams of diamond in any grit you want for like $5 if you know where to look, and even tho this is small amounts it's enough for regular use to last a lifetime. Same thing from the scammy edc brands like "gunny" will cost you $100. I'd rather like the $5 for the same stuff.
@@user-xf4es7eh9y I'd like to get some glass or chosera (I do have a 1x6 10k and love it) but they're much more expensive than Shapton. Same with Naniwa bonder stones. I'm sure they're awesome but they cost an arm and a leg. For the kitchen knives that I have (customs on Aeb-l and 14c28n and a Mcustacin SG2) Shaptons do a great job. For the folders and fixed blades on higher carbide steels I'm loving my edge pro matrix stones for 5he price (especially now that they cost almost the same as Venev but performs much better imo). I did buy a Suehero GO which is 8,000 and iirc the finest SiC stone you can get and I like it as a finishing stone sometimes. I hear you on diamond pastes and sprays. I bought a bunch of Venev pastes from Ukraine when I ordered some stuff for my Hapstone system and each tube was like $2 or less (only 125 micron was $5 and I got it just to try it out). I also have my 0.5 micron Hand American spray that was $20 for a huge bottle with 20 karats of diamonds that I bought in 2014 and it's still more than half full. I'd never pay $30-$50 for some pastes or sprays from these small brands when I doubt there's any difference between them and a $2 tube of Venev paste. You seem very knowledgeable and made some great points. What do you prefer to strop on? I'm a big fan of balsa, recently tried Hetinax and it's pretty good. But what I've really been impressed with are 3M medical tapes, especially micropore. It's great because it's cheap, you can easily replace it (great for trying out new compounds) one's it gets loaded, it has great feedback especially glued on some hardwood and it gives really toothy edges (my favorite is 7/5 micron but sometimes I'll go to 5/3 micron). Bought a 1" roll to try out on my 1x6 blanks and now I bought a 2" roll to use for my bench strop. Try them out, maybe you'll like them. Take care
The better way to convex an edge is to maintain the same angle at the apex but to erase the bevel shoulders by blending the edge bevel into the blade grind, creating a zero convex edge. This doesn't result in a blunter edge, and increases cutting efficiency by minimizing the drag / resistance caused by the bevel shoulders.
Hi Lilly, Just watched your video - I have been sharping knives for years but I still enjoyed the video, very informative. Today I just received my APO-1S. I am very pleased with it. It seems very sharp. How it it ground? It does not look convex but maybe it is just my old eyes. I just ordered the Spyderco Stone using your link, I hope you get credit for it. Is there any reason one should not glue a strip of leather to the back of the Spyderco Stone to use it as a strop? Are you aware the CanadianPreper only has your knife for sale. I looked for some of your other APO items but could not find them. Is there somewhere I can buy them?
Hello, the edge on my knives is convex. Sure you can glue some leather on the back but I would do it. In case the sharpening stone gets damaged at one side you cannot use the other side anymore. You cannot get the other items which are on my website. Sorry. All the best. Lilly
Dima Stones are the best. yours are wearing off that is the natural lok as they get worn in. Give them a squirt of Windex before using them. If you want it really sharp buy a finer grit to use after the coarse one. Love your camping videos!
@@SurvivalLilly OK I think we have different meanings for sandpaper. To me sandpaper is simply paper with sand glued to it with water soluble glue and it is sand coloured.
Emery cloth (or paper) uses emery (a special type of stone) as the abrasive with a cloth or paper backing. Emery boards are what some ladies use to sharpen their claws. A similar material is crocus cloth which uses fine metallic particles as the abrasive. Both of these are usually in the 300-400 grit range but finer ones may be available. Both of these are for use with metals. Sandpaper is generally for use with softer material such as wood. I don’t believe sandpaper will hold up very long when used against metal.
you are an angel you solved my 6 HOUR amazon pain i really couldnt decide on a product until I saw your video, however your sharping movement is very bad and you usually only need a couple strokes if done correctly
😄I think Lilly has shovn a very good way to sharpen a knife,without investing in very expensive machinery,whit extremely fine grained diamond grindstones.
Interesting, once I have a good edge I sharpen with a jade Stone to a razor edge. From that point I can simply maintain my edge with a barber strop that I've been using for the past 40 years. The quality of steel in the blade is very important. Most better quality knives are made from 1056 high carbon steel. I make my knives from s30v steel. Very expensive steel and working it can be a bit tedious but you'll have a knife that will out last your grandchildren.
Personally I would recommend beginners don't use the tool but practice with a cheap stone / diamond synthetic stones and cheap knife. It won't take long to get the right technique and its much cheaper than the cost of those tools. I disagree about the waterstones, lack of edge with them is due to lack of skill not the stones, I have Japanese waterstones that i use for my knives and plane blades, i get a razor edge every time. They take time and more care but the edge (imo) is second to none.. You are using that rag between different stones and grits its possibly contaminating the finer grits with courser ones which will result in lost edge.
If you had a channel and you had to advertise products, you would also suggest am expensive system, that would also need a lot of experience, to be able to use it and that only, as you said, from stone sharpening experience. I mean you are 100% right, but people, please understand, that gear ALL these Youtbe channels show, are fro mareting reasons. Also, most of them, don't know much about knives or sharpening, they just copy, what the last UA-camr said or showed...and that's how they make money...
sorry it is either hand sharpening which is rather difficult or this sharpening device that holds the angle for you. there are some other sharpening devices out there, but they only damage your knife blade
For 60 plus years I was taught to go into the bit not against the bit also to do the whole knife instead just one area. This causes low/high spots on your cutting surface. I was in Scouting for over 30 years and never did what you are showing. As far as I am concerned your ruining that knife.
If you know how to sharpen your ave you don't need to buy expensive anything. Why don't you make a video showing these flying monkeys how to find the right rock?
Good idea Lily, & it worked out great for you! Thank you for the recommendation of the sharpening device .I have some knives that I have been wanting to find a good sharpener for. This is one of them right here.. www.friedlybrothers.com/new-products-94/kellie-hagwood-full-tang-hunter-37500
Itsjustsharp Get 10% Discount here: bit.ly/3wgZL7t
Sponsored by ►www.itsjustsharp.com/collections/stones
Instagram ► instagram.com/its.just.sharp/
Facebook ► facebook.com/itsjustsharp/
Waterstone: amzn.to/2RE01P4
Spyderco Stone: amzn.to/3u8Z7Hr
Diamond Stone: amzn.to/3u9Iewb
Lilly...sorry for the aggravation of repeated comments but my edit function is not working...I just refinished my Mora Triflex because they aren't made anymore so its time for more Mora😁i used 600 grit wet dry with WD40, ONE DIRECTION on the flats of the blade to remove scratches etc, then 1000 grit same way, then FLITZ. other than honest wear it looks brand new. I used my Spyderco TSM white triangle stones by hand to true up the Scandi. I've had the same TSM for 20 years. If you don't chip or break a Spyderco stone they last longer than we do!
Come on, Lilly, this is the Ruixin Pro, a cheap Chinese sharpening system, sold by this company itsjustsharp for double the price. This is misleading your viewers. You should not be advertising for itsjustsharp, you are better than that.
Hey Lilly, the link to the Spydercro Stone doesn't work... can we get a new one? Thanks :)
@@paololindeman6916 If you don't like it than buy the other one. Someone has to pay the bills so unless you want to write her a check keep your negativity to yourself. No one cares.
I recommend anyone who starts sharpening, to mark the edge with a pen so it’s easy to see if you use the perfect sharpening angle
I been sharpening knives 🔪 by hand 🤚 with a whetstone and with very fine files and ceramic stone along with leather. Been doing it by hand for 45 years & I can make them so sharp if you look 👀 at the Blade the wrong way it’ll cut your eyesight😉
👍😁👍
Don't wipe r dry dry stones so u
Don't lose your slurie....
I'm going to be 💯 completely honest . I watched this video just to hear Lilly say sharpining stones . Love that accent and I learned a different way to create and sharpen convex edged . Thank you Lilly
I have been sharping knives for years. To me it all comes down to how you use the knife. And maintaining the angle while your sharping the blade.
I really like that jig system... Thanks for showing me that!
WOW I never actually knew about the convex style grind-- I like that a lot! And it makes a lot of sense why it would be stronger than the others, since there is more metal to back up the cutting edge at every angle of slice. Thank you so much for the vid!
Try to use petroleum jelly with the sharpening stone, heat the petroleum jelly and let it melt for the stone to absorb says a Brazilian knife maker who is very good for sharpening
So much good information. I already know how to sharpen a blade, as do most of your viewers, but there is so much good information beyond that in this video.
22:06, yes Lilly, the knife cutting edge needs to be moving .Lengthwise. along the whetstone while the knife cutting edge is moving crosswise. When you begin working the knife cutting edge on the whetstone, be sure to move it sideways too, don't hold it in one section. Otherwise it will wear the nerf along the sharp edge as you noticed. A machinist would say the sharp edge needs to be moved along the X axis while being moved along the Y axis. Thanks, I learned some things.
Thank you for showing us correct ways to sharpen knives. The video you did the the ItsJustSharp tool was great. Awesome how you made your own surface to fit into that tool! Glad to know the different types of edges and that one is more stable than the others. I didn't realize there are so many different materials that knives could be used to sharpen! Thank you!
Great video Lilly, just went to Itsjustsharp and ordered one for myself. Thank you my Friend.
I free hand sharpen with flat stones similar to the way you do it, however, I find that using honing oil, especially on the very coarser grit stones makes for a smoother way of drawing the knife across the stone thus making it easier to maintain the proper angle. For kitchen knives I find that drawing the knife across the stone in an angled "cutting" motion makes for a better edge. Always finish with a finer stone for a really keen edge. A barber friend of mine gave me a used strop which works great for de-burring the edge. For axes I use one of those "pucks" that have a different grit on each side. I soak those in water first. I have never used a diamond stone but would like to try. Thanks for sharing your technique, Lilly!
You are a life saver Lilly! I was about to die after watching that my hockey team lost the series and saw that you had a new video and now I’m feeling much better. Great video and great info! Thanks as always from California
As with so many things Lilly inspires me to look into, I hope this sparks a desire to learn more about this fascinating topic. Imagine, for a moment, in times long ago, making metal sharp. Entire families would roam the European countryside to offer their skills as knife sharpeners. Also interesting is the process similar to Lilly making the stone flat again. How this was accomplished prior to having a flat reference surface to work on, is a terrific story.
Thanks Lilly.
Great to see you wearing PPE when working with the stone dust.
Thank you Lilly, very helpful video.
I use an oil stone that I got for sharpening chisels etc 40 years ago . I no longer have a need for chisels but use the same stone for my hatchet and knives also a wet stone that my wife had for jewellers engraving tools., Stone in one hand and knife rested on my knee I can make a razor edge as you showed shaving arm hair. My knives are used for skinning and butchering deer. Knife sharpening as you have shown depends on the blade form. I have recently acquired a Scandi grind knife for bushcraft and will need to adapt or change my technique. Many thanks for you help and insight.
Thanks, Lilly.
I have the Spyderco medium and fine ceramic stones. I cannot say enough about them and nothing negative. Excellent results out of the box. 👌
You know what I found out? Best way to get metal residue off the stones is the dish soap and sponge 😋 (weird). I tried everything before metal brush to all kinds of scubbers and nothing worked before.
Bar keepers friend cleaner and a greenie pad...non metallic scrubber is what I use on all my ceramic stuff. I've had the same Spyderco TSM for 20 years and that thing looks like it did the day I bought it after I do this. Works on diamonds too but you have to make sure they are COMPLETELY dry before you store them
I've been hand sharpening knives for many years. One of my best stones is a Spyderco ceramic stone like you were using. It is about 25 years old and still is an excellent tool. I clean it periodically with a powder cleanser, stiff bristle brush and hot water to remove the metal fines.
it is really an excellent sharpening stone!!
I don't think they where released until 2008.
@@iamhere642 That’s incorrect.
Super scharf, tolles Resultat liebe Lilly!
Wow, this is a late night upload. Those all look awesome, have a few different sharpeners. I like my belt-powered easysharp, but I usually just use stones. It's hard to stray from the good ole standby of stones. However, I think that "itsjustsharp" system looks fantastic.
~ All the best my friend, Tschuss ~
Easy n small sharpening stone.Can bring it in the woods!thanks for info.👍
Use a kitchen powdered cleanser like Comet and water to clean your ceramic stones or they will plug up with the swarf (bits of metal from the knife and ceramic from the stone) I use oil or at least water to float the swarf off the stone to keep it from plugging up. I have diamond stone 20 years old that feel perfectly smooth but still work just fine. You need to wash the stones for your sharpening system with the cleanser also they are pretty plugged up also. I would use those with oil also. I just use mineral oil it works great and is food safe as well as cheap. You will find your stones will work much better clean.
Great video Lilly.
I like to use natural stones for sharpening. I use a belgian coticule for honing razors and have recently started using them for my knives. Even though they are flat, i think they would work well for your convex edges. For me, freehand sharpening is more enjoyable than using devices to assist me. you are right though, for someone just learning, a device like this looks very useful.
Very cool to discover this video!
hey lily, thanks for the information, p.s. your a good teacher
I used to have a cracking set of Gerber stones (that someone decided they wanted more than I did 😡) but I've used regular stones for decades. Rather than getting the finest grits, I would do the final prep before stropping on the edge of my car window... works better than you'd think 😁
on your car window. how in the heck did you think of that
@@markusmcadams8723 wish I could claim it as my own idea, but it was something I picked up from either a book or TV programme of Ray Mears.
The more you use your diamond Stone, the smoother it will become. it will not be so aggressive & will be a little more forgiving. I have a little Diamond stone that I've had for 25 years. It still works good but, just takes a little bit more work!
FLITZ will remove scratches with work and can also be used as a compound with a leather strip.
I like the idea of consistant angle with rod guides. A beginner and a pro can get the desired same sharpness. Drawback is you have to buy their stones and not your choice. But.. you will get consistently excellent results.
If you are using 1 x6 stones "Edgepro" style they will work with TSPROF, Hapstone, and many other brands of sharpeners. Wicked Edge is the brand that makes you use the stones they manufacture. KME uses 1x4 stones you can use any 1 x4 with the system.
What is best really depends on the person and their level of skill...A good bench stone set with stone holder is a must have if you're doing convex edges along with a good set of diamond plates for stone maintenance.....that clamp set is very similar to the KME in functionality...I do like the wider clamp though, and it looks like I'd be able to use my KME stones I already have a substantial investment in.....your DIY convex gadget has the right idea behind it....instead of sponge, use a piece of rubber (shore hardness of around 50) as your backing...you'll need to glue it to something hard to work in the stone mount...a bit more sturdy, but still gives enough to produce the convex edge.....also...use water on your stones as you're sharpening...even the diamond stones...they will last a lot longer
Lily, I have used one DMT "stone" for 29 years now. It has not worn at all as far as I can tell. The material you pointed out is common, but it is from the knife, not the stone.
That is great to hear
Hey Lilly great to see you back is that metal sharpening stone is that like the tungsten Steel thanks as always
Cutting paper is a horrible indicator of sharpness. Great video. Very helpful. 👍🏻👍🏻
Darken the edge of the knife with a magic marker, it will make it easier to determine the correct angle. My own choice of sharpening stones are diamond stones, as I find they do a faster job of sharpening high wear resistance steels like CPM 20CV and D2 than standard stones.
A diamond stone, no matter how fine, will leave a microscopic serrated edge. It is best to finish with a regular hard fine stone and maybe even a strop. A diamond stone is excellent for the initial stages of sharpening, especially on a duller blade. A diamond stone will remove material faster than a classic sharpening stone.
I have seen various recommendations on techniques for sharpening, back and forth, edge forward, and edge trailing. I have noticed that regardless a final edge trailing sharpening is best. So maybe back and forth to set the edge (for a very worn edge), edge forward or trailing to set the edge and a final edge trailing for the finish.
A convex edge is best for heavy cutting tasks (which is most in an outdoor/survival situation) however maintaining a convex edge is more difficult. Any “razor” edge will dull quickly regardless of the knives steel and should only be used for finer tasks (food prep). For packability diamond stones are generally lighter weight (the base is plastic with a diamond coating) and are generally fine for heavy use edges. Even a small diamond “steel” is good for a bugout bag where space is a premium. For camp type settings where space is more plentiful a set of diamond stones with maybe a couple of classic stones for finishing will do you fine. It is best to learn how to sharpen manually on a flat stone rather than the sharpening aids (as shown or other Lansky type (not sure who had it first)). If you can do it on a flat stone you can even use a found flat stone for sharpening in a pinch.
@@primordial_platypus One of my best chef's knives is a cheap chinese made stainless steel knife that has held an edge for years. All I have to do is use a steel once in awhile and the edge comes back to razor sharp. I have no idea how it remains sharp indefinitely.
@@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017 A kitchen knife is much easier to keep sharp as they are not subject to the abuse of an outdoor/camp/survival knife. Kitchen knives can also be hardened higher than a camp knife. They will be harder to sharpen once dull but as you have found out a regular steeling can keep them sharp almost indefinitely. You would not have the same results if you used that knife to chop wood, cut bone, and generally use it in abrasive (I.e. dirt) environment. Even if you use the knife in a household to cut packaging, cardboard, strip/cut wire, etc. it will not perform as well. Camp knives are hardened to a softer point simply because it is easier to sharpen to an acceptable edge given the harsh environment that will dull any blade quickly.
The only knives in my kitchen set (Wustoff) that ever need to see a stone are the steak knives which are the only ones used against a hard surface (ceramic plates). The rest have seen a stone only twice in their 30 years of use.
One of the other rod/clamp systems offers a bowed rod for convex sharpening
A few years ago, I ordered a couple of old kitchen knives from eBay to practice sharpening 😂
I use these Waterstones for sharpening.
I usually buy books from Waterstones.
Hi Lilly, if I may offer a suggestion, put down a piece of glass then you send paper and rub in a figure eight pattern, its home they lab fuel injector parts because they have to be dead flat
I am lazy and use a Chef Master to sharpen knives. Works great. :)
Mine is the best😎 cos i got it from a dear friend. And way back i learned how to sharpen tools. Even a saw is no problem for me🤘 love your channel! Stay safe and healthy everyone out there ☮️
Before risking to scratch the blade, I would stick multiple stripes of tape on both sides of the blunt edge on the paralel surfaces almost near thd cutting edge.
For a convex edge I would rather grind three strokes on a fix angle, next three strokes a few degrees tilt. So I would have more control and uniformity grinding. The last passes just with low pressure for a smooth convex form. But saving the secondary angle (maybe 40*) for last, on the finest stone.
But that’s just me, that sometimes sharpens his santoku and nakiri on wetstone
(1000/3000, secondaty angle at about 25*)
Very nice video, congratulate
What guided system do you have clamped to your bench?
It seems like EVA foam might work better than soft open-cell foam.
What grit was the sandpaper you flattened the stone's with?
A bit of Windex window cleaner will help keep your Spyderco stones and diamond stones cleaner while sharpening. Spyderco white fine grit stones and DMT continuous surface stones never dish..Spyderco brown stones can wear slightly over time
For lower carbide steels like 154cm, vg10 and everything lower(also prefer them on zdp 189) I use either Shapton pro stones or edge pro stones. For higher carbide steels I use Venev diamond stones and Edge pro diamond matrix stones. I switch between guided system and free hand sharpening. Then I strop on kangaroo leather or basswood with diamond sprays or emulsions.
all of that is very reasonable. i like the Shapton as well for on steels like you said, low alloy and chromium steels including zd189. but only for doing edges. for wider bevels I dont like to use those as they dont work great. the glass or naniwa chosera is better for wider bevels but they can also do edges, so they're more well rounded. Anyway for for vanadium steels, I was using SIC stones. which work just fine. tons of choices in the lower grits but my go to was always the 1k sigma select. which is green sic. Recently got the king neo 800 which is also green sic and cost me half as much as the others so thats the move. As far as bonded diamond IMO the Naniwa bonded diamond stones are better than either the Venev or the Edge matrix only issue is they don't have anything less than 400 grit. Which I guess is fine because even alumina works on vanadium steels in such course grits. But. a good low grit diamond bonded stone is a beast like nothing else. The ones i know of are the venev, the edge matrix and the nanohone which makes a 200 um one that is I think softer than the others and seems interesting. I just use a low grit sic stone or even an atoma for this use but i would like to get a very course bonded diamond stone.
only thing is the diamond sprays or emulsions. are all over cost scams imo. you can get the same stuff in generic industrial form for literally CENTS on the dollar. You can get 5 grams of diamond in any grit you want for like $5 if you know where to look, and even tho this is small amounts it's enough for regular use to last a lifetime. Same thing from the scammy edc brands like "gunny" will cost you $100. I'd rather like the $5 for the same stuff.
@@user-xf4es7eh9y I'd like to get some glass or chosera (I do have a 1x6 10k and love it) but they're much more expensive than Shapton. Same with Naniwa bonder stones. I'm sure they're awesome but they cost an arm and a leg.
For the kitchen knives that I have (customs on Aeb-l and 14c28n and a Mcustacin SG2) Shaptons do a great job. For the folders and fixed blades on higher carbide steels I'm loving my edge pro matrix stones for 5he price (especially now that they cost almost the same as Venev but performs much better imo). I did buy a Suehero GO which is 8,000 and iirc the finest SiC stone you can get and I like it as a finishing stone sometimes.
I hear you on diamond pastes and sprays. I bought a bunch of Venev pastes from Ukraine when I ordered some stuff for my Hapstone system and each tube was like $2 or less (only 125 micron was $5 and I got it just to try it out). I also have my 0.5 micron Hand American spray that was $20 for a huge bottle with 20 karats of diamonds that I bought in 2014 and it's still more than half full. I'd never pay $30-$50 for some pastes or sprays from these small brands when I doubt there's any difference between them and a $2 tube of Venev paste.
You seem very knowledgeable and made some great points.
What do you prefer to strop on?
I'm a big fan of balsa, recently tried Hetinax and it's pretty good. But what I've really been impressed with are 3M medical tapes, especially micropore. It's great because it's cheap, you can easily replace it (great for trying out new compounds) one's it gets loaded, it has great feedback especially glued on some hardwood and it gives really toothy edges (my favorite is 7/5 micron but sometimes I'll go to 5/3 micron). Bought a 1" roll to try out on my 1x6 blanks and now I bought a 2" roll to use for my bench strop. Try them out, maybe you'll like them.
Take care
What is the sand paper grip?
The better way to convex an edge is to maintain the same angle at the apex but to erase the bevel shoulders by blending the edge bevel into the blade grind, creating a zero convex edge. This doesn't result in a blunter edge, and increases cutting efficiency by minimizing the drag / resistance caused by the bevel shoulders.
Hi Lilly, Just watched your video - I have been sharping knives for years but I still enjoyed the video, very informative. Today I just received my APO-1S. I am very pleased with it. It seems very sharp. How it it ground? It does not look convex but maybe it is just my old eyes.
I just ordered the Spyderco Stone using your link, I hope you get credit for it. Is there any reason one should not glue a strip of leather to the back of the Spyderco Stone to use it as a strop?
Are you aware the CanadianPreper only has your knife for sale. I looked for some of your other APO items but could not find them. Is there somewhere I can buy them?
Hello, the edge on my knives is convex. Sure you can glue some leather on the back but I would do it. In case the sharpening stone gets damaged at one side you cannot use the other side anymore. You cannot get the other items which are on my website. Sorry. All the best. Lilly
hi Ms Lilly..ty:)
You could always use some kind of wide electrical tape to protect the blade against scratches.
great advice!
Dima Stones are the best. yours are wearing off that is the natural lok as they get worn in. Give them a squirt of Windex before using them. If you want it really sharp buy a finer grit to use after the coarse one. Love your camping videos!
@@thegrayman7373 Why're you sharing her info, Gray? Is there a way I can help you?
@@johnmacias9487 He is a psychopath. He and others are after her.
@@SurvivalLilly Alright, appreciate you letting me know. I will act accordingly. Thanks!
I thought this was supposed to be about which stone is the best.
Very beautiful and interesting video. Hello, good day👍
If you put it on anything soft your angle will change...
Japanese water stones
Say in an enthusiastic manner "let me show you it's features!"
Jeff from Cutlerly Lover has that professional devices
I think you mean not sandpaper (which is for wood), but fine emery paper or wet & dry paper Lilly.
no it is real sandpaper
@@SurvivalLilly OK I think we have different meanings for sandpaper. To me sandpaper is simply paper with sand glued to it with water soluble glue and it is sand coloured.
@@chaswarren7239 i concur.🙂
Emery cloth (or paper) uses emery (a special type of stone) as the abrasive with a cloth or paper backing. Emery boards are what some ladies use to sharpen their claws. A similar material is crocus cloth which uses fine metallic particles as the abrasive. Both of these are usually in the 300-400 grit range but finer ones may be available. Both of these are for use with metals. Sandpaper is generally for use with softer material such as wood. I don’t believe sandpaper will hold up very long when used against metal.
you
are
an
angel
you solved my 6 HOUR amazon pain
i really couldnt decide on a product until I saw your video, however your sharping movement is very bad and you usually only need a couple strokes if done correctly
2:44 Oh my God I was wearing headphones I was like nails against a chalkboard!!!
As a toolmaker with 50yers in sharpening tools and knifvs,i might want to do things a different way 🙂But as advice for amateurs,this is excellent. 👌👍
Come on, share the good stuff please
😄I think Lilly has shovn a very good way to sharpen a knife,without investing in very expensive machinery,whit extremely fine grained diamond grindstones.
Share your knowledge then please👍
Would you use a flattening stone with any of these stones?
Nice to meet you. the fine abrasive.That's cool.
Hi Lily envío saludos desde México. 👋
i'm a beginner and confused. did she just sharpent to paper slicing sharpness with regular sandpaper?!
Yep
Went stones are the best been using for years can get knives real Sharpe,I was taught 1 motion up not up and down
Wow nice sharpening stone i like that sharpineng stone but i dont have money to buy that stone
it is less expensive in the US. in Europe everything is double the price :/
@@SurvivalLilly ok its ok i injoy watcheng and just hopeng only stay safe alway
Interesting, once I have a good edge I sharpen with a jade Stone to a razor edge. From that point I can simply maintain my edge with a barber strop that I've been using for the past 40 years. The quality of steel in the blade is very important. Most better quality knives are made from 1056 high carbon steel. I make my knives from s30v steel. Very expensive steel and working it can be a bit tedious but you'll have a knife that will out last your grandchildren.
I think that the electrical system WORK SHARP KEN Onion is the best! Do the job and save time.
Personally I would recommend beginners don't use the tool but practice with a cheap stone / diamond synthetic stones and cheap knife. It won't take long to get the right technique and its much cheaper than the cost of those tools.
I disagree about the waterstones, lack of edge with them is due to lack of skill not the stones, I have Japanese waterstones that i use for my knives and plane blades, i get a razor edge every time. They take time and more care but the edge (imo) is second to none..
You are using that rag between different stones and grits its possibly contaminating the finer grits with courser ones which will result in lost edge.
If you had a channel and you had to advertise products, you would also suggest am expensive system, that would also need a lot of experience, to be able to use it and that only, as you said, from stone sharpening experience. I mean you are 100% right, but people, please understand, that gear ALL these Youtbe channels show, are fro mareting reasons. Also, most of them, don't know much about knives or sharpening, they just copy, what the last UA-camr said or showed...and that's how they make money...
I would just rather ask you to sharpen my blades… ☺️ I’m not very skilled in that arena.
Testing the sharpness with printer paper is good.But.Try it using newspaper,then ricepaper.Then you have a sharp knife.
The best natural stone for sharpening is an Arkansas stone
Take that paper
Sorry but for me this is a little too complicated-is there anything you could suggest that can sharpen a quality knife that is easier?
sorry it is either hand sharpening which is rather difficult or this sharpening device that holds the angle for you. there are some other sharpening devices out there, but they only damage your knife blade
@@SurvivalLilly ok thanks!
The best stone will be found in a river bed
Hopefully there won´t grow some fur on your left Arm if you ´ll do this very more often. :D
Хотел я поставить лайк этой девушке,но пережду.Умница и красавица,моя будущая жена.В Сибирской тайге неделю проживёшь?
Step 1: save video
Step 2: check links in description
Step 3: add such items to Amazon wishlist
Step 4: thank lily
👍
👍😁
You are SO beautiful. ❤️
Somehow, it just seems like you’re cheating.
ist? :D
Danke 😉
👏👏👏👌😉🔪
👍👍👍🇵🇭
still no knife sharper than my wife's tongue...
For 60 plus years I was taught to go into the bit not against the bit also to do the whole knife instead just one area. This causes low/high spots on your cutting surface. I was in Scouting for over 30 years and never did what you are showing. As far as I am concerned your ruining that knife.
If you know how to sharpen your ave you don't need to buy expensive anything. Why don't you make a video showing these flying monkeys how to find the right rock?
Good idea Lily, & it worked out great for you!
Thank you for the recommendation of the sharpening device .I have some knives that I have been wanting to find a good sharpener for.
This is one of them right here..
www.friedlybrothers.com/new-products-94/kellie-hagwood-full-tang-hunter-37500