Thanks for sharing this variable geometry turbo troubleshooting and repairing journey with us. It definitely takes a little bit of the fear away from the home mechanic.
Wish I had found this video before ordering a new turbo 😉. 152k miles on an 08. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t but after taking the actuator off I have the same movement you did.
Started my truck and it sounded as if my eb switch was on, put it in gear and all I got was black smoke, no power. We were 400 miles from home and was not wanting to take it to a shop, so I disconnected the actuator plug and was able to make it home. Everyone said the actuator was junk and it was cheaper to replace the turbo and actuator. After watching your video I decided to investigate and found the same exact issue. Thanks to your video I tore it down, instead of replacing the nozzle I removed the other tabs and reinstalled. I used a scanner from snap on to calibrate.
@@jasonhavskjold6402 unplugging the actuator sensor will leave it open or close? When I let my truck sit it’ll reset and the boost will work temporarily. I’m thinking of unplugging my ecm & speed sensor to the truck. That’s how I made it home through a derate once. 800 miles from home now and wondering what would be better. When I unplug the ecm & speed sensor last time I made it like 300 miles all the way home last time.
@@tford9496 open I believe, I didn’t have to mess with anything else, just unplugged the actuator and headed home. I didn’t have an exhaust brake so just used lower gears in tranny
I am doing this on an 08... same turbo... took off my actuator and that arm was stuck, wouldn't move... soooo, removed the turbo.... now to clean/rebuild... I know for sure that I need a new oil line drain gasket, so might as well get a complete rebuild kit
@@anesthesiadreamin 180k... The nozzle was just frozen in place... The arm for the actuator to move was completely stuck... I have it off and am going to clean/rebuild it... I can get full motion now after spraying cleaner but its sticky... so I'm going tear it down completely and rebuild it...
@@anesthesiadreamin I removed the middle turbo section and left the exhaust housing attached to the manifold... couldnt get those nuts to budge... hopefully it works out
@@CC6_Fanclub_President what a good idea! I think if I have to pull my turbo again I will do exactly what you did, separate the bearing housing from the exhaust side... Wow that would have saved me a bunch of time. Thanks for your feedback
@@anesthesiadreamin I could just tear it apart and clean it without a rebuild kit... I would need to make a gasket for the oil drain tube... I think I'd rather rebuild it right since I have it off and torn down though...
I just got the P2262 about a week ago. Today i turn the exhaust break and i lost power.. almos died black smoke and no power. Turn off am go power back. Late on i turn the exhaust brake again an now the turbo whistle load. So am wondering if i have the same problem. Also i be losing boost about 3 years ago i us to get up to 35-38 now is only 20-30.
Im having an issue where the vgt will actuate or de actuate intermittently at lower rpm. It makes the correct 3 clicks when turning on the ignition so it should have full range of motion. Any thoughts?
@@jeeperzcreeperzz So my vgt will click off at about 1100 RPM when decelerating if I remember correctly. I think I mentioned this in the third video (part3). But it seems what you're talking about is something different, do u actually hear the actuator with it idling? I guess what I'm asking is how do you know it's turning off and on at low RPM? do you have an error code?
@jeeperzcreeperzz yeah, that's going to be out of my league. It sounds like computer control, or maybe a bad actuator. Obviously it could be a bad connection or an intermittent connection between any of those components. Sorry, I just don't know enough to tell you what to go after
@@anesthesiadreamin It surprised me that I could do that on a phone. It worked great. The app($50) is amazing for Dodge owners. I rebuilt my turbo 2 years ago. I now have a few pro level scan tools showing my turbo speed at 0. Pulled the intake housing and it's spinning. Ohm tested the speed sensor and it's within specs. Getting ready to pulled the actuator and check for range of motion.
how much would somthing like this cost to get done at a shop? my 2015 6.7 cummins just started doing this at 95k miles is deleted as well would just like to know??
From what I have heard from my local dealer, and one of the diesel repair shops in my area, they won't fix the turbo, they will replace it. So what's the cost of the turbo Plus labor. The estimates I got were 3000 to 4000. But supposedly in the newer trucks like yours, they quit putting those tabs in, like the ones I had break off. So more likely yours is a different cause than my particular case
@@anesthesiadreamin i finally got somone to look at it all the shops in my area say they wont touch it bcuz it needs to b recalibrated when put back on. thats basically what i got from the machanic today told me he would probably have to replace the whole turbo! when i drive the truck i get boost and all just seems like the vgt gets stuck every once ina while but why would they have to replace the whole turbo if its the actuator not working correctly?
@@XavierTrujillo-z5u I totally get what you're saying bro, that's exactly why I tried to do mine step by step, check the actuator first and buy the software so I could recalibrate it, then if that didn't work pull the turbo and see if I could find out what was wrong, and rebuild what was needed. Failing that, the final step is buy a new turbo and put it in. I think the regular diesel mechanics either can't make money rebuilding the turbo, or they don't want the liability of having to do it again if something goes wrong with the rebuild. Also one of my local shops didn't even know they could buy the software to recalibrate the actuator,, they thought only the dealer could calibrate it
@@XavierTrujillo-z5u autoenginuity.com, go to "contacts' and call them or contact them by email, tell them you want capability to recalibrate your turbo actuator on your RAM truck, and what do you need to buy? They will ask you what platform, whether PC, IOS, Android, that kind of thing. Personally I emailed them so I had a record of the total cost. I want to say it was about $500. But I used it once on my truck and once on my buddies. If you get this figured out, you could do this for people for a couple hundred bucks. I would like to have a side hustle doing this, but I just don't have the time
Correct... The aftermarket nozzle does not have a filter inside. We actually just rebuilt my buddies he351ve in his 08 Cummins, he bought it used, 300,000 miles on it, and someone had put an aftermarket nozzle in it, also without filters. I'm in the process of making a video of the rebuild, and the calibration of the actuator, hope to have it out within a week or two. Thanks for watching and for your question 👍
Am I supposed to be able to build boost In park/ neural ? My 2011 only builds boost in gear. It also sometimes acts like the exhaust brake is on. When it shouldn't be
I am no expert or mechanic, but mine doesn't build much boost as you can see in park. It definitely needs a load to build high levels of boost. Hopefully somebody with more knowledge can comment on this
What made you begin to tear into your turbo? I have had the same P2262 for quite some time and this morning I went out for an hour drive or so. Truck began acting up and not building power this morning after we had a cold front come in with a high of 19* today, with some out of the ordinary heavy engine noise and the turbo would sound like a wastegate when I did put my foot in the pedal. Any recommendations? Or does that sound like stuck vanes?
I tore into the turbo because of the same code and it sounded like a hairdryer at idle (at the exhaust pipe), and the exhaust brake was weak. I assumed the VGT nozzle was cruddy, but I knew it also could have been the actuator malfunctioning. So my plan was to remove the actuator, and if the VGT nozzle moved through its range of motion easily, I would replace the actuator. But I found the VGT was jammed as you saw in parts 1 and 2. I am not a mechanic, but In your case it does sound like the VGT nozzle could be stuck, either from soot buildup or a bad actuator, or a broken tab like mine maybe?. What year is yours and how many miles on it?
@@anesthesiadreamin My truck is a 12' and 189k. Alright, I don't have the hairdryer noise unless I switch the exhaust brake on and off. I wrote this right after it happened and I did some drives later in the day all was good. However, the code was still there. I may replace the actuator and check that VGT actuator as you did at first. I am beginning to think it was a regen, but I haven't ever felt one on my truck like that since 52k when I bought it. I appreciate your response, any other tips greatly appreciated.
@@enew252__ I wish I had more ideas for you, but I think I would do the same thing you are talking about doing. Do you remember hearing the actuator noise from outside the vehicle when the key is turned on before you start it? If I have my windows down and turn key on, I can hear a zzzt zzzt zzzt sound (LOL) and that is the actuator putting the vgt nozzle through its motion. I did notice when I first started having problems that that sound was not the typical noises, but it made some dull clicking sounds. That's one reason why I initially thought it was the actuator.
@@enew252__ another option I considered instead of buying the software to calibrate the actuator, was a half shell that City Diesel makes that Geno's garage sells. If you search those you will find it online. It's more expensive than a regular actuator, but supposedly you don't have to calibrate it with special software
@@anesthesiadreamin Yes, I looked into the actuator noise and can hear upon starting up the truck. I think mine might sound more like that dull clicking sound from what you referred to earlier. I did see the actuator that Geno's Garage offers and saw that it didn't require a calibration, so after I do some simple fluid and filter changes I am going to order one. Would you think a clogged DPF filter would make the truck act up like it did or clogged EGR cooler? I just cleaned the EGR valve. Also, I'm out in Colorado and it just happened to get quite cold this past weekend when this happened. Leads me to think the sudden change in temp definitely has a helping hand in what caused it.
Its a monitor only (no programming) Edge Evolution CS2... It shows a few things that your computer monitors...things that your factory computer does not normally display... I also got an EGT probe from Edge that connects to the exhaust manifold, I really like monitoring that, especially towing over mountain passes
@@anesthesiadreamin which version? I am looking at their site and for the price the Software is very reasonable. Considering people are still asking $3000-4000 for outdated DRB3's
No, this one's over 20 years old. It will take a snapshot of the computer data if there is a code. But that's about it. I don't know about the new ones
Nearly 2 years later and 10,000 miles, and no problems. Thumbs up for the rebuild kit, and to Autoenginuity
Thanks for sharing this variable geometry turbo troubleshooting and repairing journey with us. It definitely takes a little bit of the fear away from the home mechanic.
Wish I had found this video before ordering a new turbo 😉. 152k miles on an 08. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t but after taking the actuator off I have the same movement you did.
Your video saved me $2800!!! Thank you it was very informative.
Awesome! What was your issue? Did you rebuild it yourself, did you use the autoenginuity software?
Started my truck and it sounded as if my eb switch was on, put it in gear and all I got was black smoke, no power. We were 400 miles from home and was not wanting to take it to a shop, so I disconnected the actuator plug and was able to make it home. Everyone said the actuator was junk and it was cheaper to replace the turbo and actuator. After watching your video I decided to investigate and found the same exact issue. Thanks to your video I tore it down, instead of replacing the nozzle I removed the other tabs and reinstalled. I used a scanner from snap on to calibrate.
@@jasonhavskjold6402 Did you have any issues getting the Turbine Shaft back in place?
@@jasonhavskjold6402 unplugging the actuator sensor will leave it open or close? When I let my truck sit it’ll reset and the boost will work temporarily. I’m thinking of unplugging my ecm & speed sensor to the truck. That’s how I made it home through a derate once. 800 miles from home now and wondering what would be better. When I unplug the ecm & speed sensor last time I made it like 300 miles all the way home last time.
@@tford9496 open I believe, I didn’t have to mess with anything else, just unplugged the actuator and headed home. I didn’t have an exhaust brake so just used lower gears in tranny
Thanks for that! had the Sam thing helped me out
I am doing this on an 08... same turbo... took off my actuator and that arm was stuck, wouldn't move... soooo, removed the turbo.... now to clean/rebuild... I know for sure that I need a new oil line drain gasket, so might as well get a complete rebuild kit
How many miles on your 08? Was the nozzle tab broken off like it was on mine?
@@anesthesiadreamin 180k... The nozzle was just frozen in place... The arm for the actuator to move was completely stuck... I have it off and am going to clean/rebuild it... I can get full motion now after spraying cleaner but its sticky... so I'm going tear it down completely and rebuild it...
@@anesthesiadreamin I removed the middle turbo section and left the exhaust housing attached to the manifold... couldnt get those nuts to budge... hopefully it works out
@@CC6_Fanclub_President what a good idea! I think if I have to pull my turbo again I will do exactly what you did, separate the bearing housing from the exhaust side... Wow that would have saved me a bunch of time. Thanks for your feedback
@@anesthesiadreamin I could just tear it apart and clean it without a rebuild kit... I would need to make a gasket for the oil drain tube... I think I'd rather rebuild it right since I have it off and torn down though...
I just got the P2262 about a week ago. Today i turn the exhaust break and i lost power.. almos died black smoke and no power. Turn off am go power back. Late on i turn the exhaust brake again an now the turbo whistle load. So am wondering if i have the same problem. Also i be losing boost about 3 years ago i us to get up to 35-38 now is only 20-30.
Im having an issue where the vgt will actuate or de actuate intermittently at lower rpm. It makes the correct 3 clicks when turning on the ignition so it should have full range of motion. Any thoughts?
@@jeeperzcreeperzz So my vgt will click off at about 1100 RPM when decelerating if I remember correctly. I think I mentioned this in the third video (part3). But it seems what you're talking about is something different, do u actually hear the actuator with it idling? I guess what I'm asking is how do you know it's turning off and on at low RPM? do you have an error code?
@anesthesiadreamin when Im using the exhaust brake, it will sometimes go from full brake to almost nothing.
Above 1100rpm
@jeeperzcreeperzz yeah, that's going to be out of my league. It sounds like computer control, or maybe a bad actuator. Obviously it could be a bad connection or an intermittent connection between any of those components. Sorry, I just don't know enough to tell you what to go after
I did the calibration on my phone with the Alpha OBD app
Nice! Was it easy, and did it work well?
@@anesthesiadreamin It surprised me that I could do that on a phone. It worked great. The app($50) is amazing for Dodge owners. I rebuilt my turbo 2 years ago. I now have a few pro level scan tools showing my turbo speed at 0. Pulled the intake housing and it's spinning. Ohm tested the speed sensor and it's within specs. Getting ready to pulled the actuator and check for range of motion.
Great video! Which way did you reinstall the turbo, from the top or through the wheel well?
I removed it and replaced it Thru the wheel well...seemed to work well. 👍
how much would somthing like this cost to get done at a shop? my 2015 6.7 cummins just started doing this at 95k miles is deleted as well would just like to know??
From what I have heard from my local dealer, and one of the diesel repair shops in my area, they won't fix the turbo, they will replace it. So what's the cost of the turbo Plus labor. The estimates I got were 3000 to 4000. But supposedly in the newer trucks like yours, they quit putting those tabs in, like the ones I had break off. So more likely yours is a different cause than my particular case
@@anesthesiadreamin i finally got somone to look at it all the shops in my area say they wont touch it bcuz it needs to b recalibrated when put back on. thats basically what i got from the machanic today told me he would probably have to replace the whole turbo! when i drive the truck i get boost and all just seems like the vgt gets stuck every once ina while but why would they have to replace the whole turbo if its the actuator not working correctly?
@@XavierTrujillo-z5u I totally get what you're saying bro, that's exactly why I tried to do mine step by step, check the actuator first and buy the software so I could recalibrate it, then if that didn't work pull the turbo and see if I could find out what was wrong, and rebuild what was needed. Failing that, the final step is buy a new turbo and put it in. I think the regular diesel mechanics either can't make money rebuilding the turbo, or they don't want the liability of having to do it again if something goes wrong with the rebuild. Also one of my local shops didn't even know they could buy the software to recalibrate the actuator,, they thought only the dealer could calibrate it
@@anesthesiadreamin where did you buy the software if you dont mind me asking?
@@XavierTrujillo-z5u autoenginuity.com, go to "contacts' and call them or contact them by email, tell them you want capability to recalibrate your turbo actuator on your RAM truck, and what do you need to buy? They will ask you what platform, whether PC, IOS, Android, that kind of thing. Personally I emailed them so I had a record of the total cost. I want to say it was about $500. But I used it once on my truck and once on my buddies. If you get this figured out, you could do this for people for a couple hundred bucks. I would like to have a side hustle doing this, but I just don't have the time
Did you use the autoenginuity PC-based ScanTool (ST06-USB)?
yes, with the "chrysler expansion pack"
Same exact rivot piece came off on my 2012. I removed the piece. Do the other rivot pieces have to be removed?
Sucks! Sorry bro. I worried the remaining ones would break off later, so yea, if u r putting the original back in, definitely get rid of all of them
So the New nozzle doesn’t have that filter?
Correct... The aftermarket nozzle does not have a filter inside. We actually just rebuilt my buddies he351ve in his 08 Cummins, he bought it used, 300,000 miles on it, and someone had put an aftermarket nozzle in it, also without filters. I'm in the process of making a video of the rebuild, and the calibration of the actuator, hope to have it out within a week or two. Thanks for watching and for your question 👍
Am I supposed to be able to build boost In park/ neural ? My 2011 only builds boost in gear. It also sometimes acts like the exhaust brake is on. When it shouldn't be
I am no expert or mechanic, but mine doesn't build much boost as you can see in park. It definitely needs a load to build high levels of boost. Hopefully somebody with more knowledge can comment on this
Only should be a couple psi of boost in park/neutral
What made you begin to tear into your turbo? I have had the same P2262 for quite some time and this morning I went out for an hour drive or so. Truck began acting up and not building power this morning after we had a cold front come in with a high of 19* today, with some out of the ordinary heavy engine noise and the turbo would sound like a wastegate when I did put my foot in the pedal. Any recommendations? Or does that sound like stuck vanes?
I tore into the turbo because of the same code and it sounded like a hairdryer at idle (at the exhaust pipe), and the exhaust brake was weak. I assumed the VGT nozzle was cruddy, but I knew it also could have been the actuator malfunctioning. So my plan was to remove the actuator, and if the VGT nozzle moved through its range of motion easily, I would replace the actuator. But I found the VGT was jammed as you saw in parts 1 and 2. I am not a mechanic, but In your case it does sound like the VGT nozzle could be stuck, either from soot buildup or a bad actuator, or a broken tab like mine maybe?. What year is yours and how many miles on it?
@@anesthesiadreamin My truck is a 12' and 189k. Alright, I don't have the hairdryer noise unless I switch the exhaust brake on and off. I wrote this right after it happened and I did some drives later in the day all was good. However, the code was still there. I may replace the actuator and check that VGT actuator as you did at first. I am beginning to think it was a regen, but I haven't ever felt one on my truck like that since 52k when I bought it. I appreciate your response, any other tips greatly appreciated.
@@enew252__ I wish I had more ideas for you, but I think I would do the same thing you are talking about doing. Do you remember hearing the actuator noise from outside the vehicle when the key is turned on before you start it? If I have my windows down and turn key on, I can hear a zzzt zzzt zzzt sound (LOL) and that is the actuator putting the vgt nozzle through its motion. I did notice when I first started having problems that that sound was not the typical noises, but it made some dull clicking sounds. That's one reason why I initially thought it was the actuator.
@@enew252__ another option I considered instead of buying the software to calibrate the actuator, was a half shell that City Diesel makes that Geno's garage sells. If you search those you will find it online. It's more expensive than a regular actuator, but supposedly you don't have to calibrate it with special software
@@anesthesiadreamin Yes, I looked into the actuator noise and can hear upon starting up the truck. I think mine might sound more like that dull clicking sound from what you referred to earlier. I did see the actuator that Geno's Garage offers and saw that it didn't require a calibration, so after I do some simple fluid and filter changes I am going to order one. Would you think a clogged DPF filter would make the truck act up like it did or clogged EGR cooler? I just cleaned the EGR valve. Also, I'm out in Colorado and it just happened to get quite cold this past weekend when this happened. Leads me to think the sudden change in temp definitely has a helping hand in what caused it.
What was the thing you had mounted on your windshield that showed your boost ?
Its a monitor only (no programming) Edge Evolution CS2... It shows a few things that your computer monitors...things that your factory computer does not normally display... I also got an EGT probe from Edge that connects to the exhaust manifold, I really like monitoring that, especially towing over mountain passes
anesthesiadreamin thank you so much. I really enjoyed your videos.
Where and gow much the sofware
Search web for autoenginuity with chrysler expansion pack. About $500
@@anesthesiadreamin awesome thanks
What are you using to calibrate?
If you mean what am I using to calibrate the actuator, it is software by autoenginuity
@@anesthesiadreamin which version? I am looking at their site and for the price the Software is very reasonable. Considering people are still asking $3000-4000 for outdated DRB3's
Will that Actron scan tool you were using show boost pressure? Thanks.
No, this one's over 20 years old. It will take a snapshot of the computer data if there is a code. But that's about it. I don't know about the new ones