Dr Kat and Historical Headwear
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- I realised that some of my references to historical headwear in previous videos may have caused confusion, especially in relation to "hoods". Today we're taking a whistlestop tour through our perceptions and the realities of historical headwear...
I hope you enjoy this video and find it interesting!
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Intro / Outro song: Silent Partner, "Greenery" [ • Greenery - Silent Part... ]
Linked videos:
Death of Amy Dudley: • The Original Staircase...
Arnolfini Portrait: • Dr Kat and the Arnolfi...
Bess of Hardwick: • Dr Kat and Bess of Har...
Images (from Wikimedia Commons, unless otherwise stated):
Link to “princess hat” on Amazon: www.amazon.co....
Hans Memling, Young Woman with a Pink (c. 1485 -90). Held by the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Workshop of Rogier van der Weyden, Portrait of a Lady (c. 1460). Held by the National Gallery.
Petrus Christus, Portrait of a Young Girl (c. 1470). Held by the Gemäldegalerie.
Robert Campin or the Master of Flémalle, Portrait of a Woman (c. 1430-1435). Held by the National Gallery.
Detail from Stefan Lochner, Presentation of Christ in the Temple (1447). Held by the Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt.
Detail from Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait (1434). Held by the National Gallery.
Detail of fillet and barbette from Codex Manesse, fol. 151r, Von Singenberg, Truchseß zu St. Gallen (between 1305 and 1315). Source: digi.ub.uni-hei...
Coif (last quarter of the 16th century) www.metmuseum....
Hans Holbein, Portrait Drawing of a Woman, inscribed in gold over red "Anna Bollein Queen" (c.1500-1536). Held by the Royal Collection, Windsor.
Previously attributed to Hans Holbein the Younger, Field of the Cloth of Gold (1545). Held by the Royal Collection.
Unknown artist, after a work attributed to Joannes Corvus, Katherine of Aragon (early 18th century). Held by the National Portrait Gallery.
Mary Boleyn, in the style of Holbein (15th-16th century). Held by Hever Castle, Kent
Hans Holbein, Jane Seymour (c. 1536 -1537). Held by the Kunsthistorisches Museum.
Portrait of Anne Boleyn, probably based on a contemporary portrait which no longer survives (late 16th century). Held by the National Portrait Gallery.
Attributed to Jan Gossaert, Portrait of Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon (c. 1516). Held in the collection of the Earl of Yarborough; Brocklesby Park, Lincolnshire.
Master John, Portrait of Mary I (1544). Held by the National Portrait Gallery.
Detail from a portrait of Queen Catherine Parr, sixth and last wife of Henry VIII of England attributed to Master John (c. 1545). Held by the National Portrait Gallery.
Formerly attributed to William Scrots, Portrait of Elizabeth I as a Princess (c. 1546). Held at Windsor Castle.
Hans Holbein, Portrait of a Lady, perhaps Katherine Howard (c. 1540). Held by the Royal Collection.
Hans Holbein. Portrait of a Lady, probably a Member of the Cromwell Family (c. 1535-40). Held by the Toledo Museum of Art.
Workshop of Hans Holbein, Portrait of a Young Woman (c. 1540 -1545). Held by the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Preparatory drawing of Anne Cresacre by Hans Holbein (c.1527). Held at Windsor Castle.
Unknown English artist, Katherine Parr (late 16th century). Held by the National Portrait Gallery.
Detail from a portrait of Henry VIII after Hans Holbein (after 1537). Held by the Walker Art Gallery.
Elizabethan cap of an artisan or apprentice (mid 16th century). Held by the British Museum.
The Bristowe Hat; silk tufting with ostrich feather and silver braid button; HRP Inventory Number 3503710. Image from HRP website: blog.hrp.org.u...
Cap of Maintenance of King Henry VIII, image from the Waterford Treasures website: www.waterfordt...
Detail from a portrait of Bess of Hardwick (later Elizabeth Countess of Shrewsbury) when Mistress St Lo, 1550s. A later inscription incorrectly identifies her as Mary I. Held at Hardwick Hall, Derbyshire. Credit: National Trust Images/Angelo Hornak
Quoted texts:
Neil MacGregor, Shakespeare's Restless World: An Unexpected History in Twenty Objects (2012)
Is it just me, or does everyone wish that Dr. Kat was their drinks and sushi buddy?
Just you.
Not the only one, I wish I could vibe with her too!
HAT'S OFF TA 'U Miss Brown But Not sushi YORKSHIRE PUDding!!
I just mean that she would be really cool to have dinner with. It doesn't have to be sushi, but when it's Girls Night in the US, we often like to meet for drinks and sushi, because US guys don't often care for sushi.
Seriously!
Who else hits the "Like" button before the video begins? I know that every video by Dr. Kat will be outstanding, so I just automatically like it!
Oh yes.....
I do!
All the time...Dr. Kat rocks!
Me too. I do that for several channels that have excellent content every time and or that show a remarkable amount of effort on the parts of the presenters.
If I could hit the like BEFORE the video I would!!!!
I wonder if, when making a portrait, the lack of any visible strings or fastening mechanism visible, is a pragmatic choice on the painter. Simply don't include it to make the portrait more aesthetically appealing
That was a fun one. I wouldn’t mind a video about the rules of dress in the Elizabethan era and the years prior. Thomas Cromwell - through Hilary Mantel - comments on the colors of his outfits: “It was such a dark red, it looked black.” (Paraphrasing)
I still don't understand the gabled hood. Why? How? Who started it? (It looks ridiculous to me.)
I am curious about the knitted cap shown. When one looks up the history of knitting and crocheting, some sources claim both crafts appeared late on the scene. It is also said stockings were cut on the bias--for stretch in absence of knitting--with a seam up the back. I have read that Elizabeth I had stockings cut from fabric rather than knitted. Yet the example of the knitted cap shows an extremely high degree ofknitting skill.
Maybe some of Amy Dudley's servants reapplied her hood for the sake of decency? There are other cases where crime victims were tidied up a bit before pictures or police intvestigations, etc.
I have also read that at times hoods were sewn to hair and that hair itself was held up in elaborate styles by being stitched in place. I'd guess there are wide ranges of ways to secure hoods and hair styles.
“. . . to show off even more of that daring hair.”
I nearly chocked on my cereal. 😂
Yes, those pictures really were rather titillating... I got quite flustered!
They would shave their hair to get that high forehead. Icky!🤢
*choked
@@CopenhagenDreaming ICE SWIMM FOR U LOL JARL'..SØREN!!
Choked* but careful hah
To me the most iconic wimples of all time are the one worn by Kate Hepburn as Eleanor of Aquitaine in the film 'A Lion in Winter' and Audrey Hepburn as Maid Marian in 'Robin and Marian'. I loved those old costumed, historical dramas! Honorable mention to Glenn Close in the 2003 remake of 'A Lion...' I imagine it would take gravitas to wear one with such regal bearing, something these ladies had in spades. (And in make-believe, of course.)
Dr. Kat first and foremost congratulations on your new baby!! Is it possible to discuss the Hapsburgs sometime soon?
Actually I was thinking the same there are so little resources out there that provide a concise analysis but ai think Dr. Kat would do a great job covering this topic.
Very interesting! Another fascinating resource for studying headwear/costume are the kneeling figures on Church monuments, where, unlike portraits, it can be seen from the back
I've often wondered how they kept those 'hennings' on their head. Isn't history fascinating?! Thanks for another enlightening video.
Those henning always reminds me of dunce caps lol
Hennin...no "g"
'Suction' I always thought....
Yeah,especially if you have thin or other problematic hair.
Would Amy Dudley be wearing her most fashionable hood if she was just staying at home, and not expecting important guests? Wouldn't she bbe in something less costly and perhaps more comfortable?
Perhaps a coif that tied under the chin? Makes sense to me!
As a descendant of the Sutton line of the Dudley’s, I can attest to the ruthlessness of many of my ancestors, especially in those who came to the new world. My own great-grandfather had his youngest daughter institutionalized and lobotomized due to her interest on a young man who wasn’t of her social standing. I have no doubt that Amy Dudley was murdered to further her husband’s interest.
Didn't she tell her house staff to leave for the day? And all dressed up? SHE WAS EXPECTING A GUEST!
@@carmenpeters728 That is what I believe also.
Oh! I forgot to add that her husband was my 20 something great uncle.
I think the French hood evolved into the modern day headband.
Loved the portrait of Bess of Hardwick. She's someone I grew up with ( not literally of course ) and a lady that I admire greatly. Even though I live in London my family's home is at Hardwick, Derbyshire.
From every window there you are able to see the magical Hall and gardens where I spent so much of my time as a youngster within the stunning gardens and the actual house. It's as familiar to me as my own home.
I didn't appreciate my good fortune then but I certainly do now. Then Chatsworth House, Bolsover Castle and Haddon Hall are also within 10 miles of there. Little wonder that I love history so very much, I didn't stand a chance, and now I'm in London I can haunt all the glorious buildings there, the Tower still being a favourite!!! Then I happened to marry an Italian who comes from Florence and lived there for years (still working on moving back eventually!!) and discovered an overwhelming treasure trove of history and art to indulge myself in.
To get to my point eventually, I cannot see how Amy Dudley's headwear could have remained intact after falling down the stairs. The stairs in buildings of this time were not cut very deeply and were sharp making them treacherous, but it's obvious that she was either killed elsewhere and placed at the foot of the stairs, especially in light of the fairly deep head wounds or indeed was actually literally pushed then maybe killed and the hood replaced.
I'm sure many accidents did happen because of the nature of the stairs, long gowns, small dogs etc but her death imho was too much of a benefit to her husband and even more likely Cecil. Sadly we will never know the full reason but it seems pretty obvious to us in the here and now that there's more to this whole tragedy of a young woman's death. Even if at her own hand, unlikely but still sad.
Thankyou Dr Kat for another fascinating historical insight, I hope that you, Jaime and Gabriel are all happy and in good health. Stay safe.❤❤❤
I think she would have been wearing just a plain coif. If she was staying home and resting, she wouldn't be wearing her finest hood.
Every german kid going to school: uses their Schultüte as a Henin. If not on themselves then on an unspecting relative.
I had to look up what a Schultüte is, but now that I know, that's really funny
While I feel sure that historical clothing isn’t your main area of expertise, it is one of my major interests. I so enjoyed this bit of knowledge you have shared with us and can only hope for more. I mean, don’t we all need to know the difference between a kirtle and a bliunt? I’m not so lucky as to possess hair That I can sit on and therefor will never tempt the male of the species to uncontrollable lust, I must confess to being a lover, collector and wearer of exotic headwear. Please share more history of who wore what.
Absolutely!
Sitting on ones hair is over-rated.
There is a lot of confusion, apparently, over what a "farthingale" is, with some authors insisting it is an expensive head-veil, and some a type of over-dress, others a wooden collapsable skirt support. I _think_ it is the 3rd. . In one of Dorothy Dunnett's Lymond series, a character says sarcastically "I am not good enough to touch the hem of her extremely expensive farthingale!"
@Andro mache Dr Kat actually did a video on the bathing customs, you may want to check it out
A tip of my cap to you for all the great videos! See what I did there?
Can I just say, as Poland goes to the Red Level tomorrow - I am made so deeply cheerful by your video. Thank you so much for this 'whistlestop tour'. :)
@blue skies it's the level for anti- covid measures. With cases going up again, we are back to much much greater restrictions, etc. Kinda depressing... so time for Dr Kat, Mrs Crocombe and Taste of History
@blue skies oh I am an American, I know- and I already voted. :) fingers crossed. They are just crazy here too anyway.
@blue skies No live at all!! Total imprisonment
Stay safe! Sending hugs and best wishes from Germany to Poland.
I spent many years wearing biggins or coifs under hats or headdresses in both the context of Society for Creative Anachronism and Renaissance Faire, and have secured them with strings either under my chin or under my substantial bun (which is more comfortable). On their own, these foundation caps are quite secure. I always made them and my hats so that the hatband atop the cap helped secure it by friction alone. Add a pin and they tend to stay put even if you're running. However, French hoods are not as secure, wanting to slide around because your smooth hair provides little friction. I used both a chin tie and an inch wide woolen or velvet band that attached to the side at the ear and went under the bun, snugging up to the nape of the neck, hidden under the back veil. Even at that, French hoods are precarious. If Amy Dudley was wearing one, I can see no way it wouldn't have been completely disarrayed by a tumble down stairs.
It’s interesting that the original brown hat that you showed looks like it’s a corduroy cap.
I would love to get your take on the decline of sumptuary laws in a future video.
Hahaha omg I totally just got a banner ad selling hats.
As Guy Fawkes night is coming up.
I was wandering, who was the man and his story?
Have you got information on this time in history?
Love your channel and how you explain so much interesting information so clearly.
Keep up the great work.
Thank you Dr Kat
Haha, “Love YOUR channel” sounds heaps better. Sorry,I had a rough night with my new born.
A journey through medieval headwear? I am packed and ready to go!!!
Amy was sick when she died. She might have been in her night shift and robe when she was found. Don't forget she is supposed to have had cancer of the breasts. I doubt she felt like getting dressed up no matter what time of the day it was.
That French hood though. The men must have been crazed with lust. Seriously though, this was a fascinating video. Thanks again for throwing light on such an interesting subject.
Hi Dr Kat,
Thank you for another interesting video. I particularly like videos about fashion and clothing from the past so this one was right up my street. Please keep making videos about Elizabethan clothing. Did you make one about footwear yet?
Other themes which interest me are related to social history and the historical background of customs which are still in use today but we seem to have forgotten their origin. Could you maybe make a video about customs around life events. You already did one about marriage and the customs around it. Events such as birth of a new baby or, at the other end of the spectrum, death are also surrounded with customs and rituals which still survive today however, in many cases we no longer know why.
Thanks.
Kind regards from the Netherlands
Thank you for another wonderful video. I would absolutely LOVE a video showing surviving Tudor “artifacts”
Where was this video 11 years ago when I was taking "History of Clothes" in Uni .. very educational thank you 🤠
It seems to me that in popular culture, hennins have become THE stereotype of Medieval female headwear.... I think this has come about through the evolution of Romance stories into fantasy & the influence of Romanticism in the arts. That’s why we see it in Disney movies & even Lego that is depicting fantasy or fairy tale settings!
I'm still not sure about Amy Dudley's death; on the one hand, one would expect the hood to come off in the course of a tumble down the stairs, but a thing isn't necessarily so just because it seems logical. I have very long hair (long enough to sit on) and I keep it up in a high knot most of the time, for convenience. A few years ago a friend and I were assaulted at a city park by some big jerk and although there was quite a tussle in the course of the assault, my topknot stayed firmly in place although it was only held in place by a single hairstick. With a good sturdy long pin or two I'd imagine one could make one of those hoods almost as secure. Just throwing that out there....
There is also a chance Amy's hood did come off when she fell, leaving her sexy hair on display to shock the respectable or amuse the vulgar- and a respectable servant or friend replaced it, as a person might tidy up the victim of an accident. For "decency's sake"
Wear a hat pin in your hair and stab the next area who lays hands o. You. In self-Defence of course
I've seen the portraits so many times, and i never noticed the cords beneath the hoods! How did I miss those?
Fascinating and although it may seem a specialist area I would love more on how clothes were constructed .
I am 68 and in my childhood in England all classes wore hats or even just a headscarf .
Kept hair clean for housework and also heads warm!
There wasn't heating everywhere and all classes would normally have one bath and one hair wash a week unless they worked down the mines ! And that was because they got free or cheap coal so could heat the water . No showers .
No lady would consider herself properly dressed to go out without a hat and gloves and it would be bowler hats and cloth caps for men . It was just what you did
Was there an etiquette regarding the wearing of hoods and caps indoors vs outdoors? Would a lady wear a full hood if she was at home alone?
i noticed the idea in comments about people wearing more casual clothes while at home but one thing someone suggested to me many years ago about the past generally (when i was wondering how people dealt with people visiting them at home when i might not even bother to get dressed if i'm lounging around and back then they didn't have cell phones to make last minute plans to meet them at their home to then go out for pizza nearby) was that there were certain hours that were allowed to call on someone and knowing those, the people at home could make sure they looked presentable, especially if getting dressed in a flash was unrealistic..so maybe every day was at least "business casual" for people who might have visitors? would there ever be a day that could be pajamas-all-day, though? that sounds like a rough life..well, not compared to the lower classes of course. i imagine that's probably rougher
Wonderful, Dr. Kat, I love historical clothing videos. About Amy Dudley’s death, didn’t the original coroner’s inquest report recently come to light showing that there was a deep (2”) “dint” in her head? I thought this pretty well proved that she was murdered by a blow to the head with a pointed instrument (halberd?), and her hood put back on afterward, after placing her body at the foot of the stairs. The inquest panel might or might not have believed that this type of injury was caused by a fall on the staircase that didn’t disturb her headress, or they might have been blackmailed and/or paid for their accidental death verdict, but I never did believe it was accidental, even before the report was re-discovered. My hypothesis is that Burghley, and possibly one or more cronies (Walsingham?) planned and ordered the murder to discredit Leceister such that the Queen could never marry him. They certainly had the capability creating a high-quality forgery in Leceister’s “hand”, telling Amy that he was coming in secret (so the Queen wouldn’t know) and that she should dismiss her household for the day, saying something like: “I must be completely alone with you, my darling angel”.
Working with historians who study hairstyles would coordinate nicely with historical head covering.
... so when Shakespeare's Casca in his play "Julius Caesar" says that "... the rabblement hooted and clapped their chapped hands and threw up their sweaty night-caps ..." , that he had in mind "coifs" ?
I think that’s very likely, it would be what Shakespeare recognised as a nightcap after all.
@@ReadingthePast My kind of nigh cap, is this a glass!!!!!!
No, nightcaps were a whole different garment. Search "Tudor nightcap" for pics.
Nerdy information that I did not know I needed to know!
Love it. This is just entertainment for me, but it's interesting entertainment that is perfect for a lazy Saturday.
And if you ever want to make an episode just for me, make one about Anne of Denmark's wedding(s) to James VI&I. I'd love to hear you present that rather dramatic set of events - and I think others would enjoy it as well, so perhaps it would not be JUST for me. ;-)
This was interesting and great fun! The line from the Leicester Commonwealth sounds apocryphal to me; the kind of glib little falsehood that inspires a visual in the mind of the recipient, the implication of which allows the source to stop short of making a direct accusation. Oh, the tangled webs we weave. Thanks, Doctor Kat.
Thank You Madam the knowledge you shared was most welcomed...🥰
With our Civil War attire in my re-enactment days, there were small differences of fashion from region to region and at different points during the war, and the Southern ladies especially were very good at "turning" dresses and modifying hats, bonnets and snoods to be used from one season to another. Everyone thinks "Scarlett O'Hara" when they think Civil War clothing, and I can tell you the movie version wasn't even close. Mostly you have spoon bill bonnets or little felt or wool hats, and your hair had to be parted in the middle and plastered to your head and then covered by all the head gear. Hat pins are fun, too! When we get a new lady member we show her the first and best use of a hat pin, to fight off an assailant! Those men sometimes, all they need to see is a little bit of ankle and they lose their minds and try to take liberties like touching you without their gloves... well, we aren't hussies! lol
I giggle hysterically at the thought of adult men supposedly losing control at the smallest glimpse of ankle or unbound hair.
@@rhondacrosswhite8048 until you realise that some men think that white stockings on women are too sexual.
@@rhondacrosswhite8048 You would have thought grown men could control themselves eh and that boys should start practising as young as possible if it's that difficult. I mean it must be because even today in some places in the world women are imprisoned because they allowed hair to show.
@@sisuguillam5109 That must somehow feed into their nurse fantasies.
@@rhondacrosswhite8048 Maybe... but it was the Taliban I was refering to who forbade the wearing of white stockings....
Thanks for doing a video about historical fashion! I’m actually taking a History of Fashion class right now and due to time we skipped past the renaissance and started with the 17th century. So thanks for a video about some of the fashion of the time! :)
Loved learning about headware. Have you thought of doing a survey of other garments (women's and men's)?
As always, fascinating and informative!
It was great to get some more details like how the hoods were attached, & that they were worn over coifs. Head coverings have been so common through history; we forget that we're actually unusual in the modern West for not wearing them, & a lot of the ladies' mediaeval headdresses look really unappealing to us- I think wimples are especially awful!
Knowing how rare it is to find historical fabric, I was truly amazed to see Tudor headwear! The blackwork coif is beautiful!
I think back to when I was a little girl in the early ‘60’s and remember that even as short a time back as then, we weren’t considered properly dressed without a hat and gloves.
@@rhondacrosswhite8048 Yes, it isn't that long ago really, but my Mum's childhood clothing from the 40s-50s was vastly different to mine from the 70s-80s!
@@rhondacrosswhite8048 I remember in the '60s, complaining about having to wear a kerchief whenever we went out shopping. It wasn't until after I started school that my mother and grandmother finally allowed me to ditch the kerchiefs and dresses.
An excellent and very informative video about a subject not often discussed. Thank you, Dr. Kat. My version of a "coif" for wear around the house is called a Tilley hat. Not very natty but good enough to greet the grocery delivery person. 😊
I made a French Hood (10:28) to wear to the Renaissance fair as part of a costume. It wasn't the easiest hat to keep on the head. I used bobby pins to secure it to my hair, which was pulled tightly to give something to anchor the hat to. I did have a chin strap and found it uncomfortable. I think if I wore it frequently, I would have grown use to it. I must say the dresses they wore were very comfortable.
Side note: Amy Dudley would have lost her hat in a fall down the stairs, no doubt about it. I've worn one of those hats and nope, it's not staying on. You are correct about the veil. I used a light weight sheer fabric and still, any tugging would dislodge it.
The red hat that was attributed to Henry VIII I have seen on one of the shows. I think with Lucy, there are marks in it that show it likely was at one timed jeweled.
Very nice tutorial. I wonder if Historic Royal Palaces would let you film more of their clothing collection? I remember when they announced the find of a "lost dress" of Elizabeth I which had been given to someone who then turned it into an altar cloth, so the fabric was preserved.
My question is, why do so many gabled hoods have that beautiful gold and black striped silk base layer? It’s in so many portraits of gabled hoods and there must be a reason it was so popular.
In the 1950's the expression "Going cap-in-hand to the Boss, the Teacher" or other person having power was a frequent expression but this confused me because "Being capped" at university was a badge of honour. I am wiser after watching this documentary.
I'm trying to imagine being arrested for wearing the wrong thing ... the closest I can get is in 1973, in junior high school, when I got in trouble because my top was literally one inch too short. This tiny bit of fabric apparently made the difference between dressing like a proper young lady and behaving like a slut.
Yep, I have a similar story from the 90s: at highschool the girl's uniform was either a summer dress or winter skirt; there weren't any uniform trousers. Lots of us girls started wearing jeans in winter, & the teachers handed out detentions til parents started writing notes saying "My daughter's freezing & I've given her permission to wear jeans." (An excuse that wouldn't fly for the boys.) They brought in (awful) trousers for the girls the next year.
@@beth7935 How ridiculous! I hate how hirls and women always had to look pretty before anything else...
"Oh she caught a cold? Well at least she looked cute in her skirt yesterday."
@@90sHONEY We could wear tracksuits at my primary school, which my tomboy self approved of, but I don't think all primary schools had them. Much more sensible today!
Lol, I was such a nerd in high school but I did get in trouble for the same thing. High waisted pants and cropped tops were the style and mine didn't quite meet! Showing about 1/2 in of skin.
In the city where I live (San Jose, California) I have read two accounts from around 1900 of women being arrested for daring to wear trousers.
Most of Elizabeth I portraits don't seem to have a hood. Did they lose fashion when she began to wear wigs? Did she want to show off the Tudor red hair? Thank you for making this video. It answered many questions!
Usually married women wore hoods and covered their hair as a cultural thing. Elizabeth I made alot of fuss about her virgin status and not wedding any man. I think they may be why she didn't have her hair covered in portraits. Before mass literacy propaganda had to be shown through pictorial clues rather than writing, obvs lol.
Love this topic. Head coverings are still being worn today. Due to a combination of religion and modesty, you will still find this. I wear a what is called a tichel. A scarf. I can also wear a snood or a wig. A picture I can send you to is the picture of the girl with the pearl earring. I've been known to also wear a binding like this. My hair is also a little past my waist.
So interesting. Especially that there were laws about what people had to wear!
Very interesting. I have fairly long hair that I french braid on each side when I am wearing a veil. I use 3inch long brass straight pins to pin the veil in place through the braids. One of my veils is very long and made from a medium weight linen. I have to be careful not to sit on it. Once pinned in place it doesn't go any where my head it not going. I once ran across a field with the veil flying out behind me, but it didn't leave my head nor shift in anyway when I stopped running. This was only a veil...I have never worn a hood. I think it unlikely that a tumble down the stairs would not damage or shift a hood on the head, but there are a lot of unknowns. How did she tumble? How far? How tightly pinned was the hood? Was it damaged but in such a way as not to look messed up and therefore was reported as undamaged? Technically, I think it is possible...where is Myth Busters when you need them?
I’ve always been fascinated by women’s fashion of the past. As women, we’re told that we have to dress a certain way to attract the attention of men or that men dictate how we dress or act. But, if you study fashion of the past, you’ll find that this just isn’t true. Women tell men what they should think is beautiful for the time period and they just go along with it. Go look back at the horrifying fashions women have worn, and men still thought they were beautiful. And the men weren’t telling them what to wear or how to wear their makeup (if they wore makeup). And when people were scandalized over a new and daring fashion, it wasn’t the men who opposed it, it was generally somebody’s mother. Lol
It's totally true that women have always dictated their own fashions as long as there's been a concept of "fashionable", but I don't think it's true at all that men liked it whatever it was. Men hated women taking aspects of masculine fashion like high heels and bright colours so much that it inspired a centuries-long taboo about men wearing those things, which is barely being broken down today. Writings from the medieval period still exist in which monks urge small children to grab women's headdresses and pull them off in the street to shame them if their clothes are too gaudy. The backlash against the corset was to a large degree led by male doctors, despite the fact that a well fitted corset is really just the historical version of the bra and does exactly none of the outrageous things to your organs seen in their illustrations. There were plenty of satirical drawings about the bloomer suit, by men.
Women have also always criticised fashion through the ages too, of course, but there were plenty of fashions women loved but men hated, just like today frankly.
One thing to note is that for most of history, fashion was not for the young. Fashion was for married adults, and though we consider being fashionable to involve creativity and daring today, in the past being fashionable signified that you knew the social and etiquette standards of your time, and were able to adhere to them.
@@e.s.r5809 I never said that ALL men do something. If you got that impression, I apologize. There has never been a period in history when everyone has agreed on anything. As for cloistered medieval monks, surely you’re not going to hold them up as authorities on women’s fashion? They were horrified by women in general, hence the need to cloister them. Lol. And your comment about men being turned off high heels because women wore them is just funny. They’re so indignant by what women are wearing that they change their own clothes, but that doesn’t stop women from wearing the stuff anyway. Nor does it stop the men from marrying them. Proves my point entirely. As for your comment about corsets, male doctors tried for years to stop women from wearing them. Did it work? Nope. Women kept right on wearing them. Why? Because when you didn’t wear a corset, other women could tell by the way your clothes fit and might label you a loose woman.
The mother of the guy interested in you to try and put him off, lol.
@@AnjiThompson1966 that’s usually the way it works! Lol! It’s never happened to me, but I’ve read about it in books 😉
My grandmother, born in 1900, worked as a milliner in her youth. She was at the low end of the totem pole, and therefore, remade more hats than she made. She had strong opinions of the character and habits of a client based upon the wear and condition of her hat! Granny Poe was not one to mince words.
Oh, fascinating! Do you have any quotes of hers about other people's hats?
Hi Dr. Kat! Good video as always. I find Amy Dudley to be a fascinating subject because of the questions surrounding her death.
As a retired medical coder and a lover of history, I wanted to throw this out to you about Amy's death and those two marks on her head. I think it possible that when the coroner referred to their depth, he was actually referring to their length. The Merriam-Webster Dictionary, which I accessed online, gives a host of definitions of "depth," including this: "the direct linear measurement from front to back
." What baffles me about Amy was the lack of blood around her head. If the two inch wound was really two inches into her head, it would have pierced her skull by an inch or more; this is a type of traumatic brain injury, and there should have been clear evidence of blood loss. But no blood was seen.
This tells me that Amy's death is one of two things: either Amy was killed elsewhere and placed at the foot of the stairs; or she really did fall down those stairs (intentionally or by accident), and those marks on her head were merely scratches. Personally, I don't think Amy was murdered elsewhere and her body placed at the foot of the stairs. I think it more likely that she fell down the stairs, breaking her neck in the process. And, depending on how she fell, it's possible that her cap, whatever she was wearing, stayed on her head.
Whew! All said, kinda-sorta.
The bottom line is that we'll never know what really happened to Amy Dudley, other than the fact that she died. And for that, may she rest in peace and sing with the angels.
Thanks, Dr. Kat, for reading my ramblings. Take good care of yourself and of Jamie and baby Gabriel, especially since the virus is on the uptick again.
🎶🎶 WE SHALL OVERCOME !!! 🎶🎶
What would they likely have used for stiffening?
Dear Dr. Kat, Would it have been possible that they used a small comb of some kind sewn into the hood. I sew and if I were trying to create a French hood, that is how I would secure it to the hair in front while also using a straight pin further back that I would insert into the braided hair or coif. Just a thought and congratulations on your new son.
WOW, first one to congratulate you on this topic and the video! Very interesting and easy to follow, I understand a lot more about head gear now.Tfs!
Could we see a picture of you wearing the historic clothing you referenced?
I have some in my instagram feed and hopefully I’ll have the chance to wear them again (when / if the world returns to normal). If that happens I’ll share those pictures too... maybe I’ll even vlog about the process 🌟
If she were as sickly as she is so often portrayed to be she may have been wearing her bed cap , wouldn't that have been tied under her chin? And that might have made it more plausible and the writer simply ommited the type of cap to make dudly appear more guilty then he was?
Brilliant point! I have read elsewhere that Amy Robsart had cancer. In terminal cases, the bones can be so brittle that the act of walking down a flight of steps could snap the neck. If this happened, Amy's headgear could have remained in place when she fell. Dents could have occured when her head hit the ground. The only thing of which I'm certain is that Amy Robsart's mysterious death was a catastrophe for Lord Robert Dudley.
@@cathryncampbell8555 Cheers to your note about the Brest cancer i wasn't aware of that exactly but it would make sense especially since they were childless if I'm not mistaken. As to your your point of it being disastrous for Robert, could you imagine how careless Robert or the Queen would have had to have been tho not have thought about the consequences of such a plot. A plan like that all but insured his banishment. I tend to look to the person who had the queens interests in hand at the time. Cecil. He always wanted her to marry a nobleman of lower rank from somewhere else to bring England an Heir without strife. I believe he truly had her best interest at heart but his methods were very tainted by the times.
@@iceprincess7674 YES! I am in total agreement with you: I believe that if accident/illness did not kill Amy Robsart, then William Cecil would be the agent behind a murder....
Brazen strumpets showing their hair lol, how times have changed. What will people say about us in 5, or 6 hundred years, love the channel Doctor Kat.
So, Kat, whatever might we now say of the excellent courtier, Dudley?
Did the Lady fall? Or did she have a little help?
And, have you figured out what the wee loop at the front is for? Possibly, for minor adjustments? For hanging in the Armoir & avoiding it being crushed?
Oooh, such fun! My hair is rather shorter than yours, being halfway to the bottom of my shoulder blades. I think I’d need MORE assistance to keep it upon my head. Sigh!
As usual, a fun & informative video. Thank you.
Thank you kindly for an excellent video upon one of my areas of great interest. It is my pet peeve that most films never seem to correctly construct these hoods for their actors. I have most every text on the styles and how they varied over time. We can thank Master Holbein for his many portraits! Well researched video!🌹🌹🌹
Henry VIII's Cap of Maintenance iss still treasured in Waterford, where it's on display.
Enjoyed the video. I love hats.
Omg HATS AND HISTORY, two of my fav things! I collect, and wear, 20th century hats, so thank you for this video. I always learn something new, Dr. Kat.
Fascinating. Too bad not many examples for authentic items survived, especially the hoods. Wouldn't it have been magnificent to see anne boleyns hood for example? I suppose one of the reasons I find it hard to part from items is tge thought of them hundreds of years from now and how fascinated the people if tomorrow will be to be able to see and touch items of today. I guess that's what made time capsules popular once....
The cap shown in your thumbnail and at 14::25 looks very much like the one worn by Sharon Lippett (13:20) an interpreter (apologies if that's the wrong title or term) working and living on Mary Arden's farm; Mary Arden being William Shakespeare's mother. Fascinating program by Michael Wood: "Shakespeare's Mother: The Secret Life of a Tudor Woman. I highly recommend it to anyone unfamiliar with it.
I love your weekly videos. Recently watched a documentary that touched briefly on Westminster Abbey High Altar Pavement. Would you be so kind to talk about its development and hidden meanings?
As one who has been an RN for more than 40 years, I have had the pleasure (not) of wearing a Nurse's Cap. In order to keep it in place for 8 hours or more, it had to be very well attached to your hair. Not only were they not easily cleaned but mine added 4 inches above my head. By the end of the shift, my scalp was in extreme pain. Trivia Moment... Most people do not know this but, the Cap was particular to the Nursing School from which you graduated.
Thank you so much for yet another engaging video. I could watch you discuss medieval and early modern headwear for hours. I'm seconding everyone who's recommended Ruth Goodman for more not only about personal hygiene during history, but also about the history of laundry, which IMO helps a lot in explaining medieval hygiene. So while people didn't immerse themselves regularly in hot water, the linen shirts or shifts next to the body were soaked in ammonia for bleaching, boiled in lye water and then vigorously beaten to launder them. Not many bacteria will stand up to that kind of regular treatment. Also, the sebum production going on in our skins and scalps is a self-regulating process, barring hormonal interference. The more we remove when bathing and washing, the more it produces until it reaches an equilibrium, then it stops. You may have gone into this in an earlier video, Kat, but the beef tallow that would have been the most available fat for soapmaking in Northern Europe was also needed for candles and rushlights. (Also, Charles II had the bright idea to tax soap in order to get income for the Crown, which made it a luxury article. As a consequence, the Restoration and Georgian eras would have been much smellier and dirtier than the medieval period, also because the use of sugar had made tooth and gum diseases more widespread.) Lye OTOH you get from dissolving and filtering wood ash, and ammonia - I probably don't need to tell anyone! One thing I find very interesting in our modern conception of BO is how much of it was created by marketers and advertisers of the beauty industry during the late Victorian and Edwardian era, using what we'd now think of as rather unethical means, and also because of the germ theory of disease.
How was the term gentleman defined in the 16th century? Was it men who owned land? Or those who didn't do physical jobs or trades?
The distinctive attire for various occupations would be an interesting topic.
YORKSHIRE CAP'Z INVENTED FIRST!! KAY;)
As always, very interesting video! It's interesting to me that few women these days wear hats with as much regularity as the Queen and the female members of the Royal family. Why is that? I know possibly Her Majesty wears the hats to stand out, as she also wears bright or very visible colors, but why do the rest of them? The men don't wear them unless it's cold or it's part of a military uniform. I know fashions come and go, but why so many people wearing hats during that era? It sounds like almost everyone frequently wore head coverings, even to bed! Was it because the climate was colder then, and with so much body heat lost through the head, wearing a head covering helped keep a person warm? Some reasons for covering the head are religious ones, as in Jewish and Islamic societies, both sexes wear head coverings- were there reasons of religious piety that required head covering among Christians at the time?
If Amy Dudley was spending the day at home rather than out, entertaining visitors, etc would she have worn such an ornate and “fancy” good as worn by Bess of Hardwick. I know their standards for dress were vastly different so they weren’t wearing leggings and a tee shirt around the house but still :)
This is one of my favorite video you have done. I learned so much. I really enjoy the information you have been providing. Hope you are enjoying your baby.
What was the main purpose of the various hoods and caps? Was it to keep the hair out of the face? Was it for warmth in a cold castle? Was it to keep dirt out of the hair if you were outside walking along the streets? Was it because people rarely washed their hair and needed to hide or tame it?
Chiselnyc I wonder the same - did the practical need to cover the head/hair from lice lead to fashion ? Even to bed ? Dr Kat any insight?
Have you considered looking at the claim that the real King lives in Australia, and that the current Monarchy is not legitimate? Tony Robinson did a good documentary on this, but it would be interesting to hear your perspective and have an explanation of how this came about.
An excellent presentation. Thank You Dr. Kat.
Was the only purpose of these hats modesty? I get a headache just thinking of all that long hair bound up with a hood pinned on top
It was also fashion and a show of status - women working in the fields would have, we believe, made do with a call or head wrap to cover the hair (for modesty and cleanliness)
Did she fall or was she pushed. Well never know but I lean towards her husband getting rid of what he felt was an incumbrence
Thank you so much for adding context to the head pieces we see in Portraits. I had actually wondered about the gabled and french hoods. I especially enjoyed getting a clearer understanding of how they would have been attached.
Your doing great for having a newborn in the house! I just started watching a few weeks ago and watch while I sew lol so I don't have as much opportunity to post comments so we're watching even if we don't comment. I wonder all the time, if I could go back in time and change the face of England in the past either to King Henry VIII or Mary queen of Scotts would I and if so what would England look like if Henry would have focus on his kingdom and not all these women lol or if Mary had a little guidance on her choice of men? I know that has nothing to do with this topic lol but I've been meaning to comment for a while lol. Congrats on the baby!
Just love fascinating detail like this; thank you for a wonderful video, and hope to see more along these lines.
it depends on how far down the stairs she fell, if it was the full flight no way would that hood stay in place, but it really doesnt take much of a fall to kill some one, if she fell like a few steps from the bottom not sure it would have even mussed her skirt.
This lecture was absolutely fascinating. Thank you! I think you make an excellent argument that Amy Robsart most probably wore her French hood further back. In the image of Bess of Hardwick, it looks like she has it tied under her chin (perhaps because this would add more stability). Do you think that Amy also wore it tied under her chin, and this might explain why it didn't fall off? I'm cautious with that question, however, since breaking your neck would indicate to me that the hood should have been damaged or crushed at the very least.
This was good but Rebecca Pattison has a much better video on this subject
I think it is such a shame that hats are no longer a major part of our culture. I would loved to have lived in the 1920's when every lady wore a hat outside even for the most ordinary reason. I love formality for no reason and hats seem to represent it the most. Fun video, thanks
Dr. Kat, do you have a picture of your Tudor costume you could share with us?
Very interesting video... I had no idea what a "hood" was. Thank you.
I have a question... Did kings ever use psychics or tarot card readers to give them advice? Or is that just in the movies?
Bless you Dr. Kat and your dear family. Keep up the great work. Can you please do a few detailed videos on the life of those who served royalty and the nobles? I'd like to know what their day-to-day was like in service. Did they ever get vacations o0r raises? What were the benefits if any received by those who actually served in the lowest, most menial jobs to support the hierarchy? Did they any sort of pension when they were no longer able to work due to age, illness, debilitation, etc. Please give us more a taste of those who labored "behind the scenes". Thanks much.
Would you do videos on the lives of Henry Viii's sisters?
I'm wondering about people's personal hygiene at the time. How often would they have washed their hair, and would that headgear protect them from lice?
Good to see you are *a head* of my request for this video 😉