I had a 2015 2.7 and had the oil pan resealed 3 times!!!!!!! Ford Dealer on the last visit said “well, that’s all we can do for now” 😆😆 loved that truck but got tired of the oil on my garage floor. Fast forward…I bought a 2018 2.7 and it’s DOES NOT LEAK 👏🏼👏🏼. It’s a beast of a truck!!!! Torque for dayyyyyssss! Well done Ford! Thanks for the videos on these!
There is actually a new setup for this, they replace the valve covers so you can use the new 2018 oil pan with an actual gasket and I think the PCV vents into valve covers now instead of the oil pan. If anyone needs a reference: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10233594-0001.pdf
They finally came out with a new TSB to address the 1st gen leaks when the gasket is built into the pan and also replacement of that valve covers. TSB 24-2098 if anyone is interested.
I sure hope it’s the same 2.7 going in the Ranger. This engine is basically bullet proof and with a couple bolt ons and a tune it’s gonna be super fast..
I’m a Ford Senior Master Tech and I find that the 2.7 is one of the most reliable engines in the F150. It’s rare to have a serious issue. I’ve seen only a couple of failures since they have been released over hundreds of trucks and many years. About the only issue I see is catalytic converter failure on vehicles that are not driven much. There is a tsb now to basically drive the truck hard and recheck it to clear them out. Maintenance is the most critical thing that needs to be done. Don’t forget to change the oil.
My 2018 has been throwing the cat code for a long time. Haven't noticed any decrease in performance. I'll look for the TSB to see if I can save from buying new cats. I'm at 122,000 miles and changing oil every 5,000 miles
I had a 2016 2.7 F150. 16000 miles engine failure from bad valve. Pieces went through the turbo. I changed the oil at 1k miles 3k 5k 7k 9k 11k 13k 15k. With amsoil ss and penzoil ultra platinum. Treated it better than any vehicle I have ever owned. They were rebuilding the engine when I went to check on yhe truck. The cab was off the truck and the engine was in a million pieces. I told them no way I want that vehicle back. The let me order a new vehicle from the factory after calling the company. I lucked out
Thats shitty I mean failures happen, even on the big diesels, I work on some engines, come back with pistons being thrown through the block. But happy ford took care of you.
Cool that they let you snag another though i guess thats a smart make saves a lawsuit you feel me. I hate having to get the lawyers invovled. They can make a difference though really they can
I’ve been using the 2.7 since 2016 in my F150’s with no issues hopefully it will stay that way. For some reason my salesman is sold on this being the best one ford makes.
@@karlschauff7989 yeah, I don’t know why ford makes changes like that. Don’t try and change something that’s not broken. Unfortunately not everybody thinks that way. I am in a 21 XLT at the moment hopefully I don’t see any issues with it. There have been multiple recalls I’ve had to deal with though.
I own a 2015 F-150 2.7L Turbo Eco-Boost 4x4. I have about 114K+ Miles on it. I run Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic 5w-30 also use Amsoil 75w-90 for front and rear differential. Just changed the Spark Plugs she runs like a Dream, and so far no Problems.
Have a 2022 f150 2.7L, and before I got my truck, I did extensive research on the newer 2.7L engines and found that these things are practically bulletproof with good maintenance. And especially after watching this video, seeing you point out all the issues that really only are on the Gen 1 engines, that further solidifies how bulletproof my engine is. My Gen 2 2.7L has direct injection and port injection to eliminate that carbon build up too. I added a S&B cold air intake, and a pedal commander. I love this truck with this engine! 😎
Have the same 2022 f150 2.7L with the same pedal commander and S&B cold air setup and I couldn’t agree more, it’s a beast, two years, 28 k miles and zero problems, you made an excellent decision.
2018 2.7L here. These are great engines. I have had 0 issues and drive it daily. It's surprisingly powerful for just a 2.7 and gets 17-18 mpg around town in a 4x4.
I thought the same thing as you, I have the same year/engine as you. I've done all recommended service - however at 103,000 miles my 10 speed transmission had a complete failure leaving me stranded. Out of warranty by 3,000 miles, a new transmission cost me $8,407.00 - I am NOT happy about that!
Never towed anything with it. The Ford dealer serviced the transmission at 95,000 miles and charged me $295. I "assume" they flushed and filled and changed the filter.@@jimmyneutron3055
I installed the catch can on my 2017 2.7 F150 at around 50k miles. It’s a great addition, easy to install and worth it to keep the oil vapors from being recycled through the engine. This will help from having the carbon build up on the valves and I can attest to this as I drain about a 1/2 cup of sludge every oil change. It’s worth not having that sludge recirculating back into the engine. All EPA related parts are harmful to the vehicles and they do reduce life of the vehicles.
People don't like timing belts so they eventually got rid of timing belt engines for chains. Now we have a timing belt oil pumps. The Mini Duramax has that too. One step forward, two steps back. I have a Toyota 4.7 V8 in a Land Cruiser with a timing belt, it isn't hard to change. The oil pump is driven directly by the crankshaft snout similar to the way an LS is... I think I'll take a timing belt over an oil pump belt any day off the week. Also, the 4.7 Toyota has proven to be capable of doing 1 million miles.
This was just the video that I needed. I’m looking at this 2021 Ford F150 XLT with the 2.7 L V6. And I was just afraid about the engine problems. But from the looks of things, it looks like most problems were resolved after the first generation. Thanks for making this video.
3 years ago I bought a 2020 F150 2.7...First truck, first Ford..Being a Honda guy, I was terrified...it's been the smoothest running and most reliable vehicle I've ever known. 8K km Mobil1 oil changes with OEM filter...60K km spark plug change...2x a year air filter change....I LOVE this truck. 0-100km/h in 5 seconds. Cannot complain. Be proactive with maintenance, spend a few dollars and don't be cheap, and this thing is gonna treat you well. All the RAMs, GMC/Silverado 1500s around me have been crumbling. Perhaps they don't keep up on maintenance, but my experience has been eye opening as far as trucks go.
Mine at about 140,000 also. Regular oil changes. No leaks at all. Just changes the coolest about 6 months ago. 36 gallon gas tank gives me about 700+ miles of range and I drive thousand mile trips several times a year. Now if I could get a matching bladder all would be good!😊😊😊
Interesting you mentioned fuel in the oil. I have this motor in a Bronco and been doing 6k oil change intervals. Sent the oil to be tested and showed good in the summer, including no detected fuel in the oil. But the sample I sent in the winter was approaching 3% fuel diluted, which is above what you'd want to see (less than 2% is considered safe). Must be that rich warm up in the cold combined with direct injection. The factory recommended 10k oil change interval seems insane just based on this analysis alone.
Very interesting. Love that you do your own oil testing. But yes, in colder temperatures these engines can dilute the oil a little more and that's why I would try and change the oil more frequently
I really love my 2021 2.7 twin. Over 80k miles in her now, been a good truck, we'll see how long she'll last. I keep her clean and fresh Castrol often :)
I had a 2017. 3 oil pan leak issues in less then 30000 km. After getting the truck back. I drove the truck 100 kms and the tranmission went. 2 days I was driving a tundra
Brothers Edge ST with the 2.7 oil pan leaked right out the gate and the dealer botched the re sealing of it and rtv clogged the pickup and trashed the motor. 4 months later he had to lemon law it.
I got a 2.7 in my 2015 f150 with 178k km (+/- 120k miles) and NEVER got an issue. I service it myself with good synthetic oil. I just got a unmentionable "oilleak" from the O-ring on the drainplug.
2.7 powers my wife's 2022 Bronco 4-Dr Wildtrak very well. Turns the factory 35's with ease while getting 19 mpg on the freeway at 70 mph. I'm surprised how quick it is.
Agreed 100% brother, gotta love the legendary 5.7L I-Force V8 in the Toyota Tundra mate and it'll definitely outlast any EcoBoost powered vehicle with ease by a massive long shot.
The little brother 3.5 2GR-FKS in the 21 Tacoma is rock solid too. After the seal issues of the first few model years got ironed out and frame issues of the second-gen it's a bulletproof little machine.
With my 2016, I was only ever really worried about carbon buildup from the DI. On some hot days the 2.7 and 3.5 EB shake a bit at idle in drive. Ford dealer confirmed as normal, no codes, just a tuning quirk. Overall, loved that engine.
2015 F-150 2.7 EcoBoost. Resealed sliding back window due to leaking water. Came back shortly after. New oil pan at 60k due to leak, leaked a day after... gave up on that, still leaks. New fuel pump at 75k. Replaced oil sending tube to updated one due to blue burning oil smoke on startup. Issue came back after a few months. Now at 100k I need new turbos due to loss of power and burning a lot of oil through the turbo seals under load... Thanks Ford!
Iv put 80,000 miles on my 2018 2.7 hauling 10k+ lbs 5 days a week (huge landscape trailer multiple mowers, sometimes mini excavators, sod, rock) it has 108k miles now and hasn’t blown yet. Looking at getting a 2024 7.3 gas or 6.7 power stroke next. Just out growing the 2.7 but it makes the best run around or road trip truck.
2021 f150 2.7 built in August... valve guide went bad at 30k miles damaging the valve and cylinder head, ultimately causing low cylinder compression. It took ford almost 4 months just to get replacement parts and by the time it was repaired i had been issued 6 different loaner trucks
I have a 2018 F150 with the 2.7 with 129000 miles ( most are highway miles) so far no problems..it gets good gas mileage with plenty of power... I use castrol full synthetic oil and change each time warning comes on... The 2 things that concern me most are the turbos and oil pump belt....i do wish they had made it a gear driven pump, or at least made it easy to get to for replacement... Love the truck so far, I would buy another with the 2.7 engine... Wanted to trade for a new one at around 95000, miles, but they are way over priced for me...
Just like the supplier issue with the intake valves, (the supplier was supposed to heat treat the valves after machining, which is common process control practice, and specified by the manufacturer) There was a supplier issue affecting early 2016 model year 2.7Ls with heads that were machined out of spec causing head gasket issues and coolant intrusion. Both of these were limited run issues. A correction on the oil pan gasket issue: The oil pan itself was changed several times. The common revision part numbers A, B, C etc. In 2021, Ford introduced revision D, which came with an o-ring style gasket impregnated into the oil pan as one part number, and no longer utilized a separate part number for the gasket, or RTV. Also, the only way someone would be able to tell if there was a leak, is if their oil change tech told them. Ford, along with multiple other manufacturers, is notorious for using compressed fabric splash guards that readily absorb oil leaks. It has to get pretty bad before you see drips on the floor. The oil pan leaking issue also most commonly happens around 100k miles, which is also when every other vehicle starts to leak oil. Older engines with stamped steel oil pans were FAR worse for oil leaks as they only used RTV, with the old GMs needing you to remove the entire steering linkage and drop the diff to service the oil pans on 4x4s. Cast Aluminum oil pans are definitely the best rigidity wise, but are easier to gall up the threads when a lube tech inevitably puts the force of 1,000 suns on the drain plug. That puts me square in the "meh" category when it comes to these Glass filled Nylon pans. Hitting a rock , or running over road debris at 70 mph will destroy any oil pan, regardless of what it's made of. The biggest advantage the plastic pans have is that the pickup tubes are built into the pan, so you replace those, and their screen every time you replace the pan. Less wear garbage in the motor, the better. I agree with you that the weak piece of these 2.7s is that the oil pump is belt driven. That being said, it hasn't really had issues like the 1.0l ecoboost did. I do wish it wasn't a timing job to replace it though.
Had the oil pan leak used the gen 4 pan revision and it works great with the new gasket. Replaced driver turbo cause common waste gate linkage wearing out. Shutter stop fixed torque converter shutter and I’m at 230k hard Miles and I believe truck has crack in the liquid cooled manifold that’s built into the head and losing coolant. It’s honestly been a great motor but having the gen 1 2.7 has its quirks
The 2018 I think is Fords best year in the last ten years. Especially for the F-150's. I personally lined the 5.0's in 2017 before the cylinder changes. But saw a 2022 piston explode and not damage the black which is unreal for the 5.0. Keep in mind the 2.7's block is very well built. The issues I heard and read were the connecting rods bearing going out earlier that they are supposed too. Then the famous oil pump wet belt. Which you know can destroy a Ford engine if not properly checked way before the maintenance cycle.
The number one problem with these trucks is the price! Ford abandoned their model of building the most reliable truck for the everyday working man. They switched over to the GM business model of producing the cheapest junk for the highest price you can get for it.
Cousins GMC 2016 Acadia went through 2 engines and a transmission, not that many miles. Also very strangely smelled like propane constantly, everyone could smell it.
I think most of the 2017 don’t have some of those problems I have a 17 mine leaks a little on pan but not enough to justify pulling it and fixing it yet 140k miles I love my truck I would buy another one exactly like it Probably will find me a 2020 soon with low miles I have had all brands they all have some kind problem
There are reported wet oil pump belt issues... degrading belts, belt fibers clogging-up the oil pick up screen, fraying belts and teeth/lugs breaking off the belts = STUPID IDEA!
You Tuber I do cars has a video he takes apart a 2.7 with the rubber oil pump belt which contributed to the engine failure, he’s got another video where he takes apart the previous generation 2.7 and he shows a side by side photo shot oil pump chain/oil pump belt.
These belt failures are out there on the 2.7. Agreed, what a stupid idea having a belt running in oil. The best Ford I owned was with a 300 inline 6, that had over 325,000 miles on it. I totaled the truck out in a crash, and that's what stopped it. F150 1996, and I wish I could buy another new one just like it!
2019 f150 4x4 with 2.7L ecoboost, 48k miles. My IWE system completely failed (not an engine problem) but super annoying. Luckily it was covered under power train warranty. Also pinion seal leaking already. I love the engine and agree its one of fords best, but im concerned about the rest of the truck falling apart around the engine. Dont getbme started on the 10R80 transmission that feels like im riding a bucking bronco to and from work everyday
@@TheGettyAdventures I used to work at a Ford dealership and Nova Scotia Power used quite a few Ecoboost engines and they drove them hard but with very few issues and I think that is the key with direct ingected turbo engines. My 2020 2.7 has a cracked flex plate which is made of aluminum,(dumb move by Ford) and I am awaiting repair.
Nice to see you be able to say negative things about Ford now HAHAHAHA Love the indepth and truthfully non bias opinions. Love the channel ! Please keep up the amazing work!!
Oil Catch can and cleaning the TB should help with the carbon buildup on those 1st Gens. Also OCI of 3month/3k with Fully Synthetic Oil will help across the board.
Issues mine had in 30k miles.. stalling while towing, rear main seal, clunking rear differential, failure to start, leaking plastic oil pan, multiple recalls and many others.
My biggest gripe with the oil belt is really simple: you have to remove the timing chains to get to it. It's the same issue with the 5.0 oil pump belt. If it was in front of the chains, and it was possible to change it without touching the timing system, fine, not as big of a deal. Just like the GM small diesel oil pump belt, it's enough complexity I wouldn't even consider doing it myself. Good information, as always. Looking forward to the next video!
Toyota Tundra had timing belt in front of water pump. I ordered one for a guy who had to fix his girlfriends truck. He could not believe it. I showed him the mounting points and dowel pins for the pulleys machined in the front face of the new one. He bought a book and worked on the thing all night long so she could go to work in it.
@@fireflyraven2760 why do anything when it’s not needed? Maybe pull the rank and check to see if there is any wear? Do that just for giggles just like the belt
@pathunter7003 so uh, when the belt breaks and oil isn't moving through the system, what then I don't like the 2.7l wco because of this fact the oil pump drive is inside the block to gian access to the second gear at the bottom end you have to take the oil pan off so much work for the simplest of things man and for the prices they are asking for it's a little insulting that they are building these vehicles to keep the customer out
Sad you cant have eco and boost at the same time ! And sad fords fix for excessive oil consumption was changing the dipstick safe level to add 2 quarts more oil ! Same oil pan !
I was able to take out a 2024 F150 with the 2.7 and it really is an impressive engine. I will be shopping for a new truck next year. I currently have a 2019 Chevy Silverado with the 5.3 DFM engine. I really like the Chevy and may end up with a new one. But the lifter issue is certainly a concern. Maybe it's not as big of an issue as the internet makes it out to be but it is something that is on my mind. Then I watch many videos of the Ford where owners have put huge miles on their trucks with very little mechanical issue and seem very happy with their Fords. That is the feeling I wish I had with my Chevy and if I did I would buy another one. So maybe it's time to make the switch?
15-17s (job 1s) have 2 timing chains as well just like the 18-24s. The 15-17 have a chain driven oil pump. 18-24s have a rubber belt driven oil pump. The 2.7 is a great motor. They’re over built for what they are.
Oil changes are the life of any turbo engine for sure! Both for helping keep fuel dilution down but also protecting turbos and everything else. Another bit of advice is on turbo engines it’s a good idea the after you finish driving and come to park and stop let the engine idle for 1-2 mins to let the turbo shaft slow down and also to get the hot oil out of the turbo and let everything cool. When you turn off the engine nothing is circulating to cool anything so if it’s left hot it just bakes itself.
Agreed… I used to have nice private time with my Saab 9-3 letting it spool down in the garage before I turned her off. And now we have auto start-stop messing up the whole cool down process. So stupid. Thankfully we have those defeat buttons.
It’s not the 1980’s anymore, leaving the engine run a bit before shutting it off could be a good idea but not necessary. If needed the engine runs coolant thru the turbo to cool it down after shutting it off, so nothing “bakes”
@@pathunter7003 when the water pump which on 99% of engines currently is only pumping when the engine is running you have no flow of coolant either. Yes the newer ones have coolant going to them for that reason so you don’t have to idle as long but it’s still a good practice…. I work at a large engine test facility and part of the shutdown is stepping down load and RPM the letting the engine idle for about 2mins before shutting down if it didn’t make a difference we wouldn’t be doing that…..
2019 here and my oil pan gasket leaked. Was the same plastic waffle looking pan as the 16/17’s. I also had a cat go bad and transmission had to be rebuilt before 45,000 miles. Luckily all of this was within the four year power train warranty but this worries me for the future.
This is my fourth truck with the 2.7l. They have all been pretty good. I run Amsoil in all of them. Had an issue on the current truck(purchased not leased) blew the cold side of the turbo intake (driver side) they claimed egr issue. I think highly unlikely. Currently I’m having power loss but I’m thinking wastegate leaking. Restart and it seems to clear. I’m at 165K k’s on it currently. Looking for some insights.
As important as the oil pump is I would think that it would be geared or at least have easy access to the pump and belt so the engine doesn't need to be pulled.
The oil pan gaskets are replaced every oil change or are supposed to be. The luxury of having a plastic oil pan and plug. The pan and gaskets need to be changed every oil change according to Ford maintenance for the 2.7 Ecoboost. I do think it has done hefty maintenance costs however some vehicles are more.
It baffles me ford still uses synthetic blend oil. Should be full synthetic. My dad’s 21 3.5 eco boost gets blend oil on oil changes from ford. What are your thoughts? Should I have him switch to full synthetic? Ford Says their synthetic blend is formulated for their engines. But I’m suss. Thanks
have had 3 2.7 trucks and havnt had any issues at all, the motor has surprised me just for the fact its what we use to pull my 28ft enclosed race trailer. Thats with the car tools and all the other stuff I never use. One thing I do hate on the 2.7 and 3.5 and whatever other ecoboosts is the auto start stop, its annoying and I really wish they gave you the option to delete it. I am just happy it isnt on my gen 1 raptor.
You can have it deleted, my ‘18 start/stop doesn’t work. I bought the truck used at 2 yrs old-the P.O. must have had it deleted, he worked for a dealership. I’ve seen new trucks on the lot that have the start/stop deleted from factory, it said so on the window sticker and they charged $50
I have a 2017 F150 with 2.7 Ecoboost with 167k miles. Currently I am on a list of about 130 waiting for 2.7 rebuilt engine replacement. So far been waiting a month for new rebuilt motor. Will cost about $13k. Blowing lots of white smoke on cold start up then some blue smoke and eventually after about 10-15 minutes it seemingly goes away. Using about one gallon of coolant every 450 miles. Replaced oil supply line to driver's side turbo replaced but that didn't fix it. Dealer said a few different possiblities within coolant system plus one cylinder has small amount of oil in it. Been faithful with recommended service intervals on oil and other fluids. Pretty disappointed. Coolant system is not sufficient in summer when towing about 6000lbs with 90 deg temps. I don't tow all the time either, just small to medium sized boat a few times a year. Had coolant system checked and cleaned last summer (by dealer). It is a very fun a lively engine, but since I have followed all the recommended service intervals (including fuel system service) I think more 2.7 engines will fail in coming years. Dealer admitted some engines of this year have these same issues.
Read on because this takes a bit of explaining. An external belt wouldn't last nearly as long as that one and even though it'd be easier to change the whole idea is not having one break in the first place, because if one does the instant it happens engine damage starts immediately, you couldn't get pulled over and shut it down quick enough from cutting your engine life at least in half if not just trashing it. I'm old enough that as soon as I see a belt driving something like that I immediately recoil back from it remembering the mid 80's Ford Escorts that had the belt driven OHC engine that the belts notoriously broke on immediately causing bent exhaust valve's, but things have changed over the years and there's plenty examples of extremely high mileage engine's that have those wet bath belts in them, they're pretty much lifetime but they'll last at least as long as the timing chains at which point you just replace them when you're in there anyways. They last so long because first of all needless to say they're a different rubber than the old external belts that oil leaking on them caused them to deteriorate, but what really makes them last is unlike the external one constantly having oil flinging off of them cools them, all that oil flying off takes heat with it, what'll dramatically cut down on their life is running the engine low on oil and they don't get the oil bath effect, back in the 90's a company that makes performance parts for Harley's designed their own engine that has small belts that drive the cams, I of course immediately thought that was a stupid idea but all these years later there doesn't seem to be issues with them, many have been on the road a long time and the engine isn't notorious for having issues with them breaking. It should be mentioned that the reason they want to drive that oil pump with a rubber belt has to do with efficiency and several other issues, the parasitic drag from driving a chain is power loss in this ever increasing world of ekeing out as much power as they can, a little here and a little there all adds up, and this is just a guess but I would suspect that Ford has taken a cue from the world of high revving high performance motorcycle engine's and uses a belt to help control oil cavitation which is undoubtedly the the reason for variable volume oil pump, a long dealt with problem in the world of high performance engine's is oil cavitation that happens when an oil pump that's designed to run at normal engine use speeds starts revving high, cavitation is little bubbles that form in the oil for the same reasons that bubbles come off of a ships propeller, when engine bearings that are supposed to ride on a layer of oil to keep from having metal to metal contact start having oil with bubbles mixed in it fed into them that layer of oil quickly thins out and you start getting metal to metal contact, in the early days of motorcycle racing when the racing bikes were the only one's hitting RPM's high enough to cause cavitation at the pump the race engine's had specially made oil pumps that actually reduced volume, at higher RPM's they fed enough oil without the cavitation problem, as far as idling in the first place the engine's idled at higher RPM's than stock along with the fact that they didn't spend much time idling anyway, none of those engine's used belts to drive the oil pumps but one thing they found out that they've come up with really clever ways of dealing with in today's production high performance motorcycle engine's that are revving into the zone where cavitation would be an issue yet spend plenty of time idling which means they can't just overall lower the volume (hence Fords variable volume pump here) is that it's very important for the drive for the pump to be smooth, anything that will cause thr pump to speed up even just for a microsecond will have it bouncing in and out of a speed where cavitation will happen, so instead of having constant cavitation it happens in pulses but at that high of an occurrence it's practically like it being constant, I'd lay odds Ford found out that the belt drive keeps the pump from bouncing in and out of that cavitation zone at higher RPM's like right before it shifts while you're pulling a heavy load up a hill, with those turbo's it's especially important to keep air bubbles out of the oil to keep their shafts from burning up, that's the kind of thing that won't cause immediate catastrophic turbo shaft failure but it'll greatly reduce their life, which is one of the reasons car manufacturers stayed away from turbo's, a rich guy's toy is one thing but your average person wants life out of things and backvin the day turbo's were notorious for failing so until they've figured the things out like i just went over that solve the problems of short life they stayed away from them, and the truck engine at the end he shows the gear driven oil pump for, those engine's only rev to 2,500 RPM's or whatever so they don't have these issues, if they did rev high enough to have oil cavitation issues you might very well see the same solutions in them. Apologies if this was long but it's something that takes a bit of explaining, the answers to how they eke more and more out of engine's today and how they solve the problems of doing that aren't simple one's.
@@dukecraig2402 Now while cavitation can pose a serious issue we both know that the decision for the belt is cost factor. With something as vital as an oil pump is I would prefer a more robust option and with a variable displacement pump it really doesn't matter how its driven(belt,chain,gear). IMO when I see belt driven I would much rather see it as an external maintenance item because even tho there are many examples of high mileage belts still kicking there are also many examples of low mileage failures at least with the external I would be able to see the condition of it when I do my normal maintenance.
My 5.7 Tundra has been PERFECT. 140000 miles and no breakdowns!!. The only problem is I have to pay for the gas instead of the parts LOL. If we were talking about a Doctor, or an airline pilot with all these issues, would you go to them for their service, NO.
Hi Alex, plastic oil pans, what bull poop is that? Not sure about the belt driven oil, pump either. Avoid Gen I, change your oil on time, it might be ok. Just give me a big block with no cylinder deactivation. The KISS principle. Dream suv, Chevy with the 8.1 v8, super low miles. Not wishing for much,lol... Have a great week.
Thanks for putting this information out there.....it's very helpful! I bought my 2.7 with 11,000 miles. I immediately installed a catch-can for the crankcase vent, and I change my oil before 5,000 miles with full synthetic. Hopefully I'll get a long life out of it.
Taking about small small displacement engines, would like to see your points on the new trend of smal I4 in midsize pick-up trucks. You've talked about all engines on 1500 and 2500, seems like a no brainer to get into the midsize segments as well :) Toyota witht he 2.4L, Ford with the 2.3L and Chevy with the 2.7L and 2-3 differents tunes from the factory. Nice video man, keep it up!
@@fraxonthefurry21 you don’t know much of anything until you are told what to believe.. Other vehicle manufacturers use the same belt system but I’m sure you don’t know who they are, that’s the good part😏
Off topic , but what do you think about a catch can for the power wagon? Maybe do a video on putting one on yours ? Selfish request. Thanks great stuff.
Catch cans will eliminate the carbon buildup on the valves, I am ordering two, one for each turbo on my 2.7 Echo boost. No problem yet, but want to keep from having any in the future.
I had a 2015 2.7 and had the oil pan resealed 3 times!!!!!!! Ford Dealer on the last visit said “well, that’s all we can do for now” 😆😆 loved that truck but got tired of the oil on my garage floor. Fast forward…I bought a 2018 2.7 and it’s DOES NOT LEAK 👏🏼👏🏼. It’s a beast of a truck!!!! Torque for dayyyyyssss! Well done Ford!
Thanks for the videos on these!
My 2.7 in my fusion has had 6 oil pan reseals. Under extended warranty so really just getting really good oil changes. Likely get rid of it
There is actually a new setup for this, they replace the valve covers so you can use the new 2018 oil pan with an actual gasket and I think the PCV vents into valve covers now instead of the oil pan.
If anyone needs a reference:
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10233594-0001.pdf
How many miles are you at with it now? I’m very interested in getting one
They finally came out with a new TSB to address the 1st gen leaks when the gasket is built into the pan and also replacement of that valve covers. TSB 24-2098 if anyone is interested.
There is a trick to those
The 2.7 EcoBoost is a well built and potent little engine. Love mine ❤
Except for that oil pump belt.
I sure hope it’s the same 2.7 going in the Ranger. This engine is basically bullet proof and with a couple bolt ons and a tune it’s gonna be super fast..
@@billygames7107I can’t wait to get mine wit the 2.7 in it this summer hopefully!! 👍
My buddies died at 108k pos
@@mikemaybe5999my 2019 is a emissions money light machine
I’m a Ford Senior Master Tech and I find that the 2.7 is one of the most reliable engines in the F150. It’s rare to have a serious issue. I’ve seen only a couple of failures since they have been released over hundreds of trucks and many years. About the only issue I see is catalytic converter failure on vehicles that are not driven much. There is a tsb now to basically drive the truck hard and recheck it to clear them out. Maintenance is the most critical thing that needs to be done. Don’t forget to change the oil.
My 2018 has been throwing the cat code for a long time. Haven't noticed any decrease in performance. I'll look for the TSB to see if I can save from buying new cats. I'm at 122,000 miles and changing oil every 5,000 miles
How do you deal w the oil pan gasket issue?
@@dannymartinez8522 mine is the second generation 2.7 so I haven't had any issues with the oil pan
Uh hem, oil pump is driven by rubber belt?
@@billgateskilledmyuncle23 haven’t seen any fail so far….
I'm so tired of Plastic engine parts
Yep, I’d rather have plastic body panels before you start power wheelifying my engine.
@freedomisntfree44 They don't rust.
Its cheap and light. every vehicle is made to a cost.
@@michaelpoczynek I don’t worry about rust down in the south. My taco has 293k miles and oil pan looks new
@@michaelpoczynekI've never had a problem with engine parts rusting. At least not before the rest of the vehicle falls apart.
I had a 2016 2.7 F150. 16000 miles engine failure from bad valve. Pieces went through the turbo. I changed the oil at 1k miles 3k 5k 7k 9k 11k 13k 15k. With amsoil ss and penzoil ultra platinum. Treated it better than any vehicle I have ever owned. They were rebuilding the engine when I went to check on yhe truck. The cab was off the truck and the engine was in a million pieces. I told them no way I want that vehicle back. The let me order a new vehicle from the factory after calling the company. I lucked out
Thats shitty I mean failures happen, even on the big diesels, I work on some engines, come back with pistons being thrown through the block. But happy ford took care of you.
Cool that they let you snag another though i guess thats a smart make saves a lawsuit you feel me. I hate having to get the lawyers invovled. They can make a difference though really they can
Good call refusing to take it back. Chances are that truck would have given you even more problems from all of that invasive work.
You didn’t change the oil enough should have been every 1k miles
Don’t neglect that maintenance
You were lucky they didn’t notice your neglect
@@joeblack1052that has to be sarcasm
I’ve got a 2019 F150 2.7L EcoBoost engine and love it. I have not had any problems and I’m changing the oil at most every 5,000 miles.
Ditto - over 150k miles. I get 26-28 mpg on the highway driving gently.
@@dandydenni1615how’s it doing now ? I’m looking to buy a 2019 at 100k miles
@@dandydenni1615it's not it if you have to drive it gently
I HAVE it in my 2017 twin turbo fusion 150k miles no issues at all but the damn plastic oil pan leaks
I’ve been using the 2.7 since 2016 in my F150’s with no issues hopefully it will stay that way. For some reason my salesman is sold on this being the best one ford makes.
The 1st gen is better than a 2nd gen with that belt driven oil pump.
@@karlschauff7989 yeah, I don’t know why ford makes changes like that. Don’t try and change something that’s not broken. Unfortunately not everybody thinks that way. I am in a 21 XLT at the moment hopefully I don’t see any issues with it. There have been multiple recalls I’ve had to deal with though.
I own a 2015 F-150 2.7L Turbo Eco-Boost 4x4. I have about 114K+ Miles on it. I run Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic 5w-30 also use Amsoil 75w-90 for front and rear differential. Just changed the Spark Plugs she runs like a Dream, and so far no Problems.
How many miles you change your amsoil signature sesries 5w-30.?
@@fernandosergiomaribarte9568 about 15k
Have a 2022 f150 2.7L, and before I got my truck, I did extensive research on the newer 2.7L engines and found that these things are practically bulletproof with good maintenance. And especially after watching this video, seeing you point out all the issues that really only are on the Gen 1 engines, that further solidifies how bulletproof my engine is. My Gen 2 2.7L has direct injection and port injection to eliminate that carbon build up too. I added a S&B cold air intake, and a pedal commander. I love this truck with this engine! 😎
I couldn’t agree more!! I ordered my 2.7 Ranger. Just waiting for build now. I’m super stoked!
Have the same 2022 f150 2.7L with the same pedal commander and S&B cold air setup and I couldn’t agree more, it’s a beast, two years, 28 k miles and zero problems, you made an excellent decision.
What is a pedal commander?
only issue with the gen2 2.7 is the belt driven oil pump , what a genius
Have a 22 f150 with 2.7. I love the truck. No complaints.
Really enjoying the ford reviews. You have excellent communication skills. Keep it up!
I am glad I have a 2019 F-150. I have almost 90k on the truck and have not had any issues with the engine
2018 2.7L here. These are great engines. I have had 0 issues and drive it daily. It's surprisingly powerful for just a 2.7 and gets 17-18 mpg around town in a 4x4.
I thought the same thing as you, I have the same year/engine as you. I've done all recommended service - however at 103,000 miles my 10 speed transmission had a complete failure leaving me stranded. Out of warranty by 3,000 miles, a new transmission cost me $8,407.00 - I am NOT happy about that!
@@dannylawson366mind sharing if you did any towing and if you drain and fill the transmission fluid before hitting 100k?
Never towed anything with it. The Ford dealer serviced the transmission at 95,000 miles and charged me $295. I "assume" they flushed and filled and changed the filter.@@jimmyneutron3055
I installed the catch can on my 2017 2.7 F150 at around 50k miles. It’s a great addition, easy to install and worth it to keep the oil vapors from being recycled through the engine. This will help from having the carbon build up on the valves and I can attest to this as I drain about a 1/2 cup of sludge every oil change. It’s worth not having that sludge recirculating back into the engine. All EPA related parts are harmful to the vehicles and they do reduce life of the vehicles.
I just cant stand this junk
I only get about a tablespoon in mine at the oil change.
People don't like timing belts so they eventually got rid of timing belt engines for chains. Now we have a timing belt oil pumps. The Mini Duramax has that too. One step forward, two steps back.
I have a Toyota 4.7 V8 in a Land Cruiser with a timing belt, it isn't hard to change. The oil pump is driven directly by the crankshaft snout similar to the way an LS is... I think I'll take a timing belt over an oil pump belt any day off the week. Also, the 4.7 Toyota has proven to be capable of doing 1 million miles.
This was just the video that I needed. I’m looking at this 2021 Ford F150 XLT with the 2.7 L V6. And I was just afraid about the engine problems. But from the looks of things, it looks like most problems were resolved after the first generation. Thanks for making this video.
That exactly why I am here, 21 xlt 2.7 seems like the best bang for your buck in the current market.
3 years ago I bought a 2020 F150 2.7...First truck, first Ford..Being a Honda guy, I was terrified...it's been the smoothest running and most reliable vehicle I've ever known. 8K km Mobil1 oil changes with OEM filter...60K km spark plug change...2x a year air filter change....I LOVE this truck. 0-100km/h in 5 seconds. Cannot complain. Be proactive with maintenance, spend a few dollars and don't be cheap, and this thing is gonna treat you well. All the RAMs, GMC/Silverado 1500s around me have been crumbling. Perhaps they don't keep up on maintenance, but my experience has been eye opening as far as trucks go.
Original owner, 2021 2.7 V6 Eco Boost, 60k miles,change oil every 5000 mi, no issues at all. Very happy with my truck.
Bravo Ford for adding dual injection! People don’t want engines that are guaranteed to have carbon build up issues.
2020 2.7 F150 I'm changing the oil every 5000 miles. So far absolutely no problems! Love the truck!
So nice to see someone from the Canadian Maritimes. Great work with the channel and hello from PEI! 😀
Thank you sir!
Agreed! Hello from New Brunswick!
@@TheGettyAdventureswhere’s your shop? I live on PEI and have this truck
I have a 2015 2.7L F-150 with almost 140K miles on it. So far she's still holding up.
And leaks? Those will be starting soon. Ford couldnt figure out how to stop the leaking even before they moved to making it out of plastic
I got one with 70k mile did you hook up an oil separator? Catch can thing or upgrade that oil pan ?
Mine at about 140,000 also. Regular oil changes. No leaks at all. Just changes the coolest about 6 months ago. 36 gallon gas tank gives me about 700+ miles of range and I drive thousand mile trips several times a year. Now if I could get a matching bladder all would be good!😊😊😊
Interesting you mentioned fuel in the oil. I have this motor in a Bronco and been doing 6k oil change intervals. Sent the oil to be tested and showed good in the summer, including no detected fuel in the oil. But the sample I sent in the winter was approaching 3% fuel diluted, which is above what you'd want to see (less than 2% is considered safe). Must be that rich warm up in the cold combined with direct injection. The factory recommended 10k oil change interval seems insane just based on this analysis alone.
Very interesting. Love that you do your own oil testing. But yes, in colder temperatures these engines can dilute the oil a little more and that's why I would try and change the oil more frequently
Interested to see that 2.7 when it comes out later this year in the Ranger. That thing will be a little rocket ship.
There’s a 2019 out there with 540k, only oil did changes with no problems at all.
I really love my 2021 2.7 twin.
Over 80k miles in her now, been a good truck, we'll see how long she'll last. I keep her clean and fresh Castrol often :)
Love these series. Very informative and helpful!
Thank you for the review. Looking for a future replacement for my 05 F-150 with 294k miles and I found the 2.7L appealing.
Traded in my ‘05 supercab with the 5.4 last summer and got a ‘23 with the 2.7. I love it, the close ratio 10 speed is nice
I had a 2017. 3 oil pan leak issues in less then 30000 km. After getting the truck back. I drove the truck 100 kms and the tranmission went. 2 days I was driving a tundra
Can't blame anyone going with the 5.7L tundra
Here we go with the Tundra remarks
Good point about NOT buying a vehicle with the latest engine. Or a brand new model .
Brothers Edge ST with the 2.7 oil pan leaked right out the gate and the dealer botched the re sealing of it and rtv clogged the pickup and trashed the motor. 4 months later he had to lemon law it.
Ya the oils pans didnt seal worth shit lol
I have the second generation. Amazing engine. I have 130 kilometers on it and still sounds like new.
21 2.7L with 80,400 miles. Amazing in EVERY SENSE ❤
2020 f-150 2.7 with 95,000 no issues so far
2018 , no leaks, no issues ever
I got a 2.7 in my 2015 f150 with 178k km (+/- 120k miles) and NEVER got an issue. I service it myself with good synthetic oil. I just got a unmentionable "oilleak" from the O-ring on the drainplug.
2.7 powers my wife's 2022 Bronco 4-Dr Wildtrak very well. Turns the factory 35's with ease while getting 19 mpg on the freeway at 70 mph. I'm surprised how quick it is.
Current gen engine flaws have been addressed as my F150 is perfect. There's a reason the F150 is the best selling truck for 40 consecutive years.
My 5.7 3UR-FE engine is about the most trouble free engine back in 2021. Toyota back then made the best engine back then.
Agreed 100% brother, gotta love the legendary 5.7L I-Force V8 in the Toyota Tundra mate and it'll definitely outlast any EcoBoost powered vehicle with ease by a massive long shot.
Yeah nothing compares to Toyota reliability. I love my Tundra
The little brother 3.5 2GR-FKS in the 21 Tacoma is rock solid too. After the seal issues of the first few model years got ironed out and frame issues of the second-gen it's a bulletproof little machine.
This video had nothing to do with Toyota.
Love that engine in our sequoia. Not to fond of the mpg around town but highway I’ve gotten 21-22mpg and I’ll take that all day
With my 2016, I was only ever really worried about carbon buildup from the DI. On some hot days the 2.7 and 3.5 EB shake a bit at idle in drive. Ford dealer confirmed as normal, no codes, just a tuning quirk. Overall, loved that engine.
I have a first Gen 2.7 with 84,0000 miles. I have not experienced the oil on top of the valve issue or the timing chain rattle yet.
In reality, the only really common issue is the leaking oil pan. The other issues are MUCH LESS common even on the first generation.
2015 F-150 2.7 EcoBoost. Resealed sliding back window due to leaking water. Came back shortly after. New oil pan at 60k due to leak, leaked a day after... gave up on that, still leaks. New fuel pump at 75k. Replaced oil sending tube to updated one due to blue burning oil smoke on startup. Issue came back after a few months. Now at 100k I need new turbos due to loss of power and burning a lot of oil through the turbo seals under load... Thanks Ford!
Damn! My 23 is perfect then. Nice video, thanks
Iv put 80,000 miles on my 2018 2.7 hauling 10k+ lbs 5 days a week (huge landscape trailer multiple mowers, sometimes mini excavators, sod, rock) it has 108k miles now and hasn’t blown yet. Looking at getting a 2024 7.3 gas or 6.7 power stroke next. Just out growing the 2.7 but it makes the best run around or road trip truck.
Whew! Nice to know my 2018 doesn't have many of these early gen issues. No oil pan leaks yet! The 2.7L-TT is a stout little motor.
2021 f150 2.7 built in August... valve guide went bad at 30k miles damaging the valve and cylinder head, ultimately causing low cylinder compression. It took ford almost 4 months just to get replacement parts and by the time it was repaired i had been issued 6 different loaner trucks
I have 2020 f150 2.7 at 42k miles normal maintenance every time. No issue.
Everyone I talk to that has a 2.7, friggen love it! Reliability is outstanding and it’s fast.
Nice review! Next up, ford 3.3, let’s go!!
The NA engines in F-150s are what you settle for when you can’t afford a 2.7. No thanks.
@@miniaddict4534 not really some of us, would rather have the reliability of naturally aspirated.
I have a 2018 F150 with the 2.7 with 129000 miles ( most are highway miles) so far no problems..it gets good gas mileage with plenty of power... I use castrol full synthetic oil and change each time warning comes on... The 2 things that concern me most are the turbos and oil pump belt....i do wish they had made it a gear driven pump, or at least made it easy to get to for replacement... Love the truck so far, I would buy another with the 2.7 engine... Wanted to trade for a new one at around 95000, miles, but they are way over priced for me...
The second generation 2.7 never ceases to amaze me. What a great engine. Thanks for the great video.
I HAVE it in my 2017 twin turbo fusion 150k miles no issues at all but the damn plastic oil pan leaks
Just like the supplier issue with the intake valves, (the supplier was supposed to heat treat the valves after machining, which is common process control practice, and specified by the manufacturer) There was a supplier issue affecting early 2016 model year 2.7Ls with heads that were machined out of spec causing head gasket issues and coolant intrusion. Both of these were limited run issues. A correction on the oil pan gasket issue: The oil pan itself was changed several times. The common revision part numbers A, B, C etc. In 2021, Ford introduced revision D, which came with an o-ring style gasket impregnated into the oil pan as one part number, and no longer utilized a separate part number for the gasket, or RTV. Also, the only way someone would be able to tell if there was a leak, is if their oil change tech told them. Ford, along with multiple other manufacturers, is notorious for using compressed fabric splash guards that readily absorb oil leaks. It has to get pretty bad before you see drips on the floor. The oil pan leaking issue also most commonly happens around 100k miles, which is also when every other vehicle starts to leak oil. Older engines with stamped steel oil pans were FAR worse for oil leaks as they only used RTV, with the old GMs needing you to remove the entire steering linkage and drop the diff to service the oil pans on 4x4s. Cast Aluminum oil pans are definitely the best rigidity wise, but are easier to gall up the threads when a lube tech inevitably puts the force of 1,000 suns on the drain plug. That puts me square in the "meh" category when it comes to these Glass filled Nylon pans. Hitting a rock , or running over road debris at 70 mph will destroy any oil pan, regardless of what it's made of. The biggest advantage the plastic pans have is that the pickup tubes are built into the pan, so you replace those, and their screen every time you replace the pan. Less wear garbage in the motor, the better. I agree with you that the weak piece of these 2.7s is that the oil pump is belt driven. That being said, it hasn't really had issues like the 1.0l ecoboost did. I do wish it wasn't a timing job to replace it though.
I think there’s going to be problems with every series of engines and components. Where there’s moving pieces it’s prone to wearing out.
Had the oil pan leak used the gen 4 pan revision and it works great with the new gasket. Replaced driver turbo cause common waste gate linkage wearing out. Shutter stop fixed torque converter shutter and I’m at 230k hard Miles and I believe truck has crack in the liquid cooled manifold that’s built into the head and losing coolant. It’s honestly been a great motor but having the gen 1 2.7 has its quirks
The 2018 I think is Fords best year in the last ten years. Especially for the F-150's. I personally lined the 5.0's in 2017 before the cylinder changes. But saw a 2022 piston explode and not damage the black which is unreal for the 5.0. Keep in mind the 2.7's block is very well built. The issues I heard and read were the connecting rods bearing going out earlier that they are supposed too. Then the famous oil pump wet belt. Which you know can destroy a Ford engine if not properly checked way before the maintenance cycle.
7:59 that's exactly why I run Amsoil!! of course mine is a 2018 2nd gen dont have to worry as much.
The number one problem with these trucks is the price! Ford abandoned their model of building the most reliable truck for the everyday working man. They switched over to the GM business model of producing the cheapest junk for the highest price you can get for it.
Cousins GMC 2016 Acadia went through 2 engines and a transmission, not that many miles. Also very strangely smelled like propane constantly, everyone could smell it.
I think most of the 2017 don’t have some of those problems I have a 17 mine leaks a little on pan but not enough to justify pulling it and fixing it yet 140k miles I love my truck I would buy another one exactly like it Probably will find me a 2020 soon with low miles I have had all brands they all have some kind problem
One of the best engine options out there. Reliable, tunable and efficient, if you stay out of boost lol
There are reported wet oil pump belt issues... degrading belts, belt fibers clogging-up the oil pick up screen, fraying belts and teeth/lugs breaking off the belts = STUPID IDEA!
You Tuber I do cars has a video he takes apart a 2.7 with the rubber oil pump belt which contributed to the engine failure, he’s got another video where he takes apart the previous generation 2.7 and he shows a side by side photo shot oil pump chain/oil pump belt.
These belt failures are out there on the 2.7. Agreed, what a stupid idea having a belt running in oil. The best Ford I owned was with a 300 inline 6, that had over 325,000 miles on it. I totaled the truck out in a crash, and that's what stopped it. F150 1996, and I wish I could buy another new one just like it!
Great content! Are you able to do a towing video for this engine?
2019 f150 4x4 with 2.7L ecoboost, 48k miles. My IWE system completely failed (not an engine problem) but super annoying. Luckily it was covered under power train warranty. Also pinion seal leaking already. I love the engine and agree its one of fords best, but im concerned about the rest of the truck falling apart around the engine. Dont getbme started on the 10R80 transmission that feels like im riding a bucking bronco to and from work everyday
Do a Ford 6.2L review !
The carbon issue can be fixed with an Italian tuneup. Take it on the highway and drive the snot out of it for 10-15 miles.
Ahhh yes the old Italian Tune up. My fav 😉
Exactly
@@TheGettyAdventures I used to work at a Ford dealership and Nova Scotia Power used quite a few Ecoboost engines and they drove them hard but with very few issues and I think that is the key with direct ingected turbo engines. My 2020 2.7 has a cracked flex plate which is made of aluminum,(dumb move by Ford) and I am awaiting repair.
Fagetabout it
Nice to see you be able to say negative things about Ford now HAHAHAHA Love the indepth and truthfully non bias opinions. Love the channel ! Please keep up the amazing work!!
He is biased towards the five oh
Oil Catch can and cleaning the TB should help with the carbon buildup on those 1st Gens. Also OCI of 3month/3k with Fully Synthetic Oil will help across the board.
Issues mine had in 30k miles.. stalling while towing, rear main seal, clunking rear differential, failure to start, leaking plastic oil pan, multiple recalls and many others.
Reliability doesnt exist. Not since the cummins 12 valve 😢
That will teach you not to drive a toYota
Had the 3.5 eco boost. Threw a rod out the bottom just taking it easy. Always on top of maintenance. I never get a f 150 unless its the coyote v8.
My biggest gripe with the oil belt is really simple: you have to remove the timing chains to get to it. It's the same issue with the 5.0 oil pump belt. If it was in front of the chains, and it was possible to change it without touching the timing system, fine, not as big of a deal. Just like the GM small diesel oil pump belt, it's enough complexity I wouldn't even consider doing it myself. Good information, as always. Looking forward to the next video!
That's why they do it you will bring it to them because of the complexity
Toyota Tundra had timing belt in front of water pump. I ordered one for a guy who had to fix his girlfriends truck. He could not believe it. I showed him the mounting points and dowel pins for the pulleys machined in the front face of the new one. He bought a book and worked on the thing all night long so she could go to work in it.
@@fireflyraven2760 why do anything when it’s not needed? Maybe pull the rank and check to see if there is any wear? Do that just for giggles just like the belt
Pull the crank
@pathunter7003 so uh, when the belt breaks and oil isn't moving through the system, what then I don't like the 2.7l wco because of this fact the oil pump drive is inside the block to gian access to the second gear at the bottom end you have to take the oil pan off so much work for the simplest of things man and for the prices they are asking for it's a little insulting that they are building these vehicles to keep the customer out
Sad you cant have eco and boost at the same time ! And sad fords fix for excessive oil consumption was changing the dipstick safe level to add 2 quarts more oil ! Same oil pan !
I was able to take out a 2024 F150 with the 2.7 and it really is an impressive engine. I will be shopping for a new truck next year. I currently have a 2019 Chevy Silverado with the 5.3 DFM engine. I really like the Chevy and may end up with a new one. But the lifter issue is certainly a concern. Maybe it's not as big of an issue as the internet makes it out to be but it is something that is on my mind. Then I watch many videos of the Ford where owners have put huge miles on their trucks with very little mechanical issue and seem very happy with their Fords. That is the feeling I wish I had with my Chevy and if I did I would buy another one. So maybe it's time to make the switch?
Thanks for the video… your videos have been helpful.
Glad you like them!
15-17s (job 1s) have 2 timing chains as well just like the 18-24s. The 15-17 have a chain driven oil pump. 18-24s have a rubber belt driven oil pump. The 2.7 is a great motor. They’re over built for what they are.
Oil changes are the life of any turbo engine for sure! Both for helping keep fuel dilution down but also protecting turbos and everything else. Another bit of advice is on turbo engines it’s a good idea the after you finish driving and come to park and stop let the engine idle for 1-2 mins to let the turbo shaft slow down and also to get the hot oil out of the turbo and let everything cool. When you turn off the engine nothing is circulating to cool anything so if it’s left hot it just bakes itself.
Agreed… I used to have nice private time with my Saab 9-3 letting it spool down in the garage before I turned her off. And now we have auto start-stop messing up the whole cool down process. So stupid. Thankfully we have those defeat buttons.
It’s not the 1980’s anymore, leaving the engine run a bit before shutting it off could be a good idea but not necessary. If needed the engine runs coolant thru the turbo to cool it down after shutting it off, so nothing “bakes”
@@pathunter7003 when the water pump which on 99% of engines currently is only pumping when the engine is running you have no flow of coolant either. Yes the newer ones have coolant going to them for that reason so you don’t have to idle as long but it’s still a good practice…. I work at a large engine test facility and part of the shutdown is stepping down load and RPM the letting the engine idle for about 2mins before shutting down if it didn’t make a difference we wouldn’t be doing that…..
I'm on my third oil pan on my 2018. Had it changed a few years ago and everything is okay for now.
That’s too bad, my ‘18 has never leaked
Don’t forget that the EGR inlet tube fails. Costs about $500 to fix. Sounds like the manifold has a leak when it fails
2019 here and my oil pan gasket leaked. Was the same plastic waffle looking pan as the 16/17’s. I also had a cat go bad and transmission had to be rebuilt before 45,000 miles. Luckily all of this was within the four year power train warranty but this worries me for the future.
This is my fourth truck with the 2.7l. They have all been pretty good. I run Amsoil in all of them. Had an issue on the current truck(purchased not leased) blew the cold side of the turbo intake (driver side) they claimed egr issue. I think highly unlikely. Currently I’m having power loss but I’m thinking wastegate leaking. Restart and it seems to clear. I’m at 165K k’s on it currently. Looking for some insights.
As important as the oil pump is I would think that it would be geared or at least have easy access to the pump and belt so the engine doesn't need to be pulled.
The oil pan gaskets are replaced every oil change or are supposed to be. The luxury of having a plastic oil pan and plug. The pan and gaskets need to be changed every oil change according to Ford maintenance for the 2.7 Ecoboost. I do think it has done hefty maintenance costs however some vehicles are more.
I’m understand the belt driven oil pump is something people don’t like but does anyone know someone who has had one fail?
I got a 2018 with 180000 on it and I love it
It baffles me ford still uses synthetic blend oil. Should be full synthetic. My dad’s 21 3.5 eco boost gets blend oil on oil changes from ford. What are your thoughts? Should I have him switch to full synthetic? Ford Says their synthetic blend is formulated for their engines. But I’m suss. Thanks
have had 3 2.7 trucks and havnt had any issues at all, the motor has surprised me just for the fact its what we use to pull my 28ft enclosed race trailer. Thats with the car tools and all the other stuff I never use. One thing I do hate on the 2.7 and 3.5 and whatever other ecoboosts is the auto start stop, its annoying and I really wish they gave you the option to delete it. I am just happy it isnt on my gen 1 raptor.
You can have it deleted, my ‘18 start/stop doesn’t work. I bought the truck used at 2 yrs old-the P.O. must have had it deleted, he worked for a dealership.
I’ve seen new trucks on the lot that have the start/stop deleted from factory, it said so on the window sticker and they charged $50
I have a 2017 F150 with 2.7 Ecoboost with 167k miles. Currently I am on a list of about 130 waiting for 2.7 rebuilt engine replacement. So far been waiting a month for new rebuilt motor. Will cost about $13k. Blowing lots of white smoke on cold start up then some blue smoke and eventually after about 10-15 minutes it seemingly goes away. Using about one gallon of coolant every 450 miles. Replaced oil supply line to driver's side turbo replaced but that didn't fix it. Dealer said a few different possiblities within coolant system plus one cylinder has small amount of oil in it. Been faithful with recommended service intervals on oil and other fluids. Pretty disappointed. Coolant system is not sufficient in summer when towing about 6000lbs with 90 deg temps. I don't tow all the time either, just small to medium sized boat a few times a year. Had coolant system checked and cleaned last summer (by dealer). It is a very fun a lively engine, but since I have followed all the recommended service intervals (including fuel system service) I think more 2.7 engines will fail in coming years. Dealer admitted some engines of this year have these same issues.
Sorry you’re going through this.
My buddies died at 107 it was a 2016 they are junk
My 2018 had 0 issues. The only complaint is that plastic drain pan with the yellow plastic plug...
Sounds like the 2nd gen is a rock solid option
If these manufacturers are so dead set on utilizing these belt driven oil pump why not just go with an external pump
Read on because this takes a bit of explaining.
An external belt wouldn't last nearly as long as that one and even though it'd be easier to change the whole idea is not having one break in the first place, because if one does the instant it happens engine damage starts immediately, you couldn't get pulled over and shut it down quick enough from cutting your engine life at least in half if not just trashing it.
I'm old enough that as soon as I see a belt driving something like that I immediately recoil back from it remembering the mid 80's Ford Escorts that had the belt driven OHC engine that the belts notoriously broke on immediately causing bent exhaust valve's, but things have changed over the years and there's plenty examples of extremely high mileage engine's that have those wet bath belts in them, they're pretty much lifetime but they'll last at least as long as the timing chains at which point you just replace them when you're in there anyways.
They last so long because first of all needless to say they're a different rubber than the old external belts that oil leaking on them caused them to deteriorate, but what really makes them last is unlike the external one constantly having oil flinging off of them cools them, all that oil flying off takes heat with it, what'll dramatically cut down on their life is running the engine low on oil and they don't get the oil bath effect, back in the 90's a company that makes performance parts for Harley's designed their own engine that has small belts that drive the cams, I of course immediately thought that was a stupid idea but all these years later there doesn't seem to be issues with them, many have been on the road a long time and the engine isn't notorious for having issues with them breaking.
It should be mentioned that the reason they want to drive that oil pump with a rubber belt has to do with efficiency and several other issues, the parasitic drag from driving a chain is power loss in this ever increasing world of ekeing out as much power as they can, a little here and a little there all adds up, and this is just a guess but I would suspect that Ford has taken a cue from the world of high revving high performance motorcycle engine's and uses a belt to help control oil cavitation which is undoubtedly the the reason for variable volume oil pump, a long dealt with problem in the world of high performance engine's is oil cavitation that happens when an oil pump that's designed to run at normal engine use speeds starts revving high, cavitation is little bubbles that form in the oil for the same reasons that bubbles come off of a ships propeller, when engine bearings that are supposed to ride on a layer of oil to keep from having metal to metal contact start having oil with bubbles mixed in it fed into them that layer of oil quickly thins out and you start getting metal to metal contact, in the early days of motorcycle racing when the racing bikes were the only one's hitting RPM's high enough to cause cavitation at the pump the race engine's had specially made oil pumps that actually reduced volume, at higher RPM's they fed enough oil without the cavitation problem, as far as idling in the first place the engine's idled at higher RPM's than stock along with the fact that they didn't spend much time idling anyway, none of those engine's used belts to drive the oil pumps but one thing they found out that they've come up with really clever ways of dealing with in today's production high performance motorcycle engine's that are revving into the zone where cavitation would be an issue yet spend plenty of time idling which means they can't just overall lower the volume (hence Fords variable volume pump here) is that it's very important for the drive for the pump to be smooth, anything that will cause thr pump to speed up even just for a microsecond will have it bouncing in and out of a speed where cavitation will happen, so instead of having constant cavitation it happens in pulses but at that high of an occurrence it's practically like it being constant, I'd lay odds Ford found out that the belt drive keeps the pump from bouncing in and out of that cavitation zone at higher RPM's like right before it shifts while you're pulling a heavy load up a hill, with those turbo's it's especially important to keep air bubbles out of the oil to keep their shafts from burning up, that's the kind of thing that won't cause immediate catastrophic turbo shaft failure but it'll greatly reduce their life, which is one of the reasons car manufacturers stayed away from turbo's, a rich guy's toy is one thing but your average person wants life out of things and backvin the day turbo's were notorious for failing so until they've figured the things out like i just went over that solve the problems of short life they stayed away from them, and the truck engine at the end he shows the gear driven oil pump for, those engine's only rev to 2,500 RPM's or whatever so they don't have these issues, if they did rev high enough to have oil cavitation issues you might very well see the same solutions in them.
Apologies if this was long but it's something that takes a bit of explaining, the answers to how they eke more and more out of engine's today and how they solve the problems of doing that aren't simple one's.
@@dukecraig2402 Now while cavitation can pose a serious issue we both know that the decision for the belt is cost factor. With something as vital as an oil pump is I would prefer a more robust option and with a variable displacement pump it really doesn't matter how its driven(belt,chain,gear). IMO when I see belt driven I would much rather see it as an external maintenance item because even tho there are many examples of high mileage belts still kicking there are also many examples of low mileage failures at least with the external I would be able to see the condition of it when I do my normal maintenance.
What do you think about catch cans on a 2021 2.7 eco?
My 5.7 Tundra has been PERFECT. 140000 miles and no breakdowns!!. The only problem is I have to pay for the gas instead of the parts LOL. If we were talking about a Doctor, or an airline pilot with all these issues, would you go to them for their service, NO.
Hi Alex, plastic oil pans, what bull poop is that? Not sure about the belt driven oil, pump either. Avoid Gen I, change your oil on time, it might be ok. Just give me a big block with no cylinder deactivation. The KISS principle. Dream suv, Chevy with the 8.1 v8, super low miles. Not wishing for much,lol... Have a great week.
Personally I'd love a good new 350 small block. Not much power for a modern truck but she'll run for 25 years without much issue.
would you recommend buying a used one ? certified used from Ford? im looking at 2018 Ford F150 2.7 ecoboost to buy
We love you are a Ford lover!
Using higher grade fuel will also help to reduce carbon build up, since it burns a little bit cleaner.
Carbon build up on the valves of the direct ejected engines Would oil Catch cans be the solution please respond ???
Yes it would help stop
My 2.7 gets beat up but I’m confident it’s completely solid.
I thought I just heard you say the turbo spins at 80k rpm? I had no idea, what kind of bearings can deal with that kind of speed?
Another thing I question is the reversed water pump on the 3.5 eco boost,
I saw that lol not sure the thought process behind that. But probably some one smarter then me has a reason
Thanks for putting this information out there.....it's very helpful!
I bought my 2.7 with 11,000 miles. I immediately installed a catch-can for the crankcase vent, and I change my oil before 5,000 miles with full synthetic. Hopefully I'll get a long life out of it.
Taking about small small displacement engines, would like to see your points on the new trend of smal I4 in midsize pick-up trucks.
You've talked about all engines on 1500 and 2500, seems like a no brainer to get into the midsize segments as well :)
Toyota witht he 2.4L, Ford with the 2.3L and Chevy with the 2.7L and 2-3 differents tunes from the factory.
Nice video man, keep it up!
It's got a rubber belt that drives the oil pump that rides in the engine oil. Will not touch with a 50 foot pole.
Unfortunately so does the 5.0 2021 and later. ☹️
Not my 2015 2.7 it’s a chain
That’s a good idea to stay away from something you know absolutely nothing about
@@pathunter7003 it's such a wild engineering decision you don't even believe it.
I didn't at first either.
@@fraxonthefurry21 you don’t know much of anything until you are told what to believe..
Other vehicle manufacturers use the same belt system but I’m sure you don’t know who they are, that’s the good part😏
Off topic , but what do you think about a catch can for the power wagon? Maybe do a video on putting one on yours ? Selfish request. Thanks great stuff.
Catch cans will eliminate the carbon buildup on the valves, I am ordering two, one for each turbo on my 2.7 Echo boost. No problem yet, but want to keep from having any in the future.
2018 95K miles ZERO issues on my 2.7 Ecoboost.
Great video. What are your thoughts about the 2.7L in the 2024 Ranger? Worth the extra $2,100 or will the added HP and torque even be noticeable?
Go for it dude that ranger hauls ass and has a tank on an engine
@@abesnpz went with the GMC Canyon AT4. Glad I did. It’s superior in countless ways.