S85 V10 engine swap problems - V10 BMW E46 M3 restoration project Pt 11
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2024
- Jay & I get the S85 V10 back in my E46M3 to see if we can come up with a different solution to the crossmember & steering rack versus oil pan on the V10 engine.
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►Earlier V10 M3 restoration episodes:
Rescuing the car from Germany • Saving my V10 BMW E46 ...
Pt 1 • My V10 BMW E46 M3 rest...
Pt 2 • Removing the V10 from ...
Pt 3 • How rusty is my V10 BM...
Pt 4 • It's getting worse! My...
Pt 5 • Almost fully stripped ...
Pt 6 • Welding the boot floor...
Pt 7 • Subframe reinforcement...
Pt 8 • Stitch welding the fro...
Pt 9 • Final bits of chassis ...
Pt 10 • Rebuilt S85 engine is ...
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''Simple restoration, nothing too crazy'' Phil Morrison 2019...Love it!
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STREET CAR! You know 😎
@@姜明进 THE street car my friend, this will be the coolest thing on the road!
That was 2019 this is 2020 😂
At least your not getting carried away with it! Class from Craig !
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Being from the US, it definitely made me smile when you said you’re a mile away. Instead of saying you’re a km away.
We're a messed up country that uses the metric and imperial system. All road signs and car speedos are in MPH. We often use MM & CM for small measurements and measure bigger stuff in feet. Measuring in fractions of inches needs to get in the bin though 😂
Yeah dry sump seems to solve your issues from what i can see. Although its loads of money and work, its gotta worth it just to have such a perfect build. Why compromise when you’re already so far in.
“At least you’re not getting carried away” - craig.
Man you guys crack me up. 😂
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This is one of the best videos I have ever watched on youtube. This is my favorite engine and I would love to do a swap one day. What yall are doing to document this will give confidence to (hopefully) hundreds of other people to attempt a similar project. Guarantee you I'll be buying some of your gear or parts in support of these excellent videos.
Thanks very much. A lot of the earlier episodes we've done on the chassis reinforcement & repair have probably put a lot of people off buying E46 M3s, so I'm happy you think it's a positive video (where I end up spending £8,000 on an oil pan 😂)
@@driftworks I was already scared of the E46 problems! I favor the e30 Touring or e39 Touring as street car homes, or e84 Z3 (with a factory-like GT3 bodykit) as a track build .
Car agnostic, getting videos/photos of the oiling system and clearance mockups on the S85 is like photographing tigers in the wild. Hobbyists and internet dreamers just don't see stuff like that. I bet I couldn't find another single photo on the web that comes close to what you've shown and explained. Thanks again!
Who knew that watching you two hump a gearbox to some good DnB would make for such an entertaining Friday night?
Haha.
You got this Phil - and more great content for us fitting the dry sump!
Need more Craig - you three together are such good fun 👍👍👍
Cheers 👍
Phil : spends most of the videos explaining how he doesn't want to compromise with a chopped subframe and different rack this time
Comments section : how about using a custom subframe and a different rack?
watch the video goddammit!
Good work anyway guys, looking forward to seeing many shiny dry sump parts...
🤓 haha, thanks man!
You are all doing a cracking job, and it's nice to see the real-world problems being resolved by your ingenuity, Brave lads if you get that sump. Good luck. I can't wait to see how it progresses. Gripping viewing.
Cheers 👍
Loving the background DnB!
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Top fork parking there Phil..
Fork points pointed down and on the floor like a pro to prevent a trip hazard. =]
Plowing through the resto man, looking forward to seeing this machine rip.
Thanks! 🤓
I love your content and try my best to keep up, but have i missed where you explained how you did it originally? And why you can't do it that way again?
I think I mentioned it in the first video, but i could be wrong. It was very custom. Used a Mazda steering rack with extra UJ that went through a chassis rail. The rack had to be lowered & moved back from the original position & custom uprights had to be fabricated to compensate for the introduced bump steer. It drove well, but was always a compromise. I think it will handle better with stock knuckles/rack/column.
@@driftworks Ah, thanks for the response and explanation.
One of the reasons I love the work on this channel is the effort that goes into getting everything done as well as it can be. Minimal compromise. Great stuff.
Put the steering rack behind the cross member like on e30 and e21? And change the hubs so that the steering arms trail back rather than stick forward. You could even use a left hand drive e46 steering rack flipped upside down to get an oem rack working.
Like putting e36+ engines in e30 and e21 but in reverse
I don't want to change the steering or suspension at all.
Was your first steering and cross member system that bad or defective , why not go back or have i not been paying attention ? ,great viewing !
It was 'okay' I want perfect this time.
Loving the DnB from this and the last video
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My favourite thread atm! Love this project!! Would love to come and have a brew and look😍
Thanks!
Lunch and v10 m3. Perfect timing
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Yes Phil with the Nu-Tone, legend man
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Loving the chilled bangers
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Good job guys
Cheers 😎
Brings back memories from over 25y ago when fitting a S38 to a M3 E30. A lot easier though as we only had to mod the oil pan, thermostat pipe and air collector on the engine. Always trying to stick with original parts for reliability, often from many different models though. I would move the engine instead of dry sump due to expense and reliability and try to compensate by reducing front axle weight elsewhere. Did you calculate how much more weight the 5cm put forward of front axle center point?
I think the engine is 212kg and maybe about 65cm(guessing) long ? that would make for about 15kg weight you need to offset. Front bumper, bonnet, coolant reservoir, washer fluid tank, radiator, smaller alternator etc should make it happen and save you plenty vs dry sump.
Bad obsession motorsport would solve this problem!They are the best with brackets and this kind of things!
This isn't a 'brackets' type of job.
Is there a way to use that dry sump plate with the external pump but instead of having the tank in the trunk and lines going thru the car if daily engineering can produce the plate with a drop down sump behind where the steering rack would sit where the stock pan carries the oil and if it would be possible to make the plate have the the ability to bolt the pump up to either side of the engine for use in both left and right hand driver cars . . . . . But thats a major "IF" and totally relies on daily engineering wanting to design build an entire new unit!!
Awesome build and glad to see you go down the rabbit hole with fixing strengthening and solving all the bmw chassis problems
There is space there, but not enough & dry sumps need length in lines from the scavenge pum to help de-aerate the oil as it gets to the tank.
Dry sump costs can be reduced by fabbing your own pan from the original pan, and fabbing up some pump mounts. You will still need to buy the pump, lines and reservoir. This is what I'm doing on my m62 e46 swap, although on mine I'm fabbing the reservoir too so it will fit in the engine bay in place of the washer fluid tank.
Keen! I'm going to leave it to the professionals on this one.
Well that escalated quickly Phil. 😂Might as well have put a set of cams in it now.
🤓& rods +9000rpm.. Give it time.
Any update on that Aston LT swap?
Craigs done a bit, but he's had a big tax bill so is prioritising paid work for a whle.
phil have you thought about lowering the rack 20 or 30 mm and adding tapered extenders to the rack ends to keep geometry no bump steer. The only other thing i might suggest is to put a different rack behind the cross member and alter a set of stubs e92 ones might work they have a lot of meat on the back of them just below the caliper mounts and would be inline where they where on the front side cut the front tapered piece off and get it machined and welded on the back side would be heaps cheaper than the dry sump and the bonus of putting a rack behind the cross member is the steering shaft would most likely miss the exhaust win win me thinks
I mention in this video that that would be unacceptable to me. I first put the V10 in this car with modified steering components nearly 10 years ago. The reason I'm doing so much work changing it is to have completely uncompromised steering & geometry this time.
phil how much bonnet clearance do you have to the top of the engine could you lift the engine a little bit maybe use solid engine mounts you where only talking 20 or 30mm to clear the rack adjuster then you might have just enough room for sump alterations and yes keep all the steering oem
The crossmember wasn't able to be bolted up, so it'd need more than 30mm which I wouldn't want to do, and there isn't enough clearance to the bonnet anyway.
Damn Phil I knew it was going to be a tight fit but I didn't think it was going to be that tight . I called it I think on episode 2 dry sump for the win and yeah definitely not the cheapest option. Maybe you could do a custom fabricated front subframe it may buy you a little bit more space. Anyway Phil good luck I love the episodes.
Thanks man!
Oooh dry sump. Can't wait to see that.
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Dammmmm the only legit solution that can get this project moving forward 💸💸💸💸💸
Wallet burn!
@@driftworks is their anyway of fabricating a custom crossmember for this issue?
@@omarreyes8722 looks like no matter what if you keep the rack in factory position a new crossmember wouldn't be enough. Possibly but the labor involved a dry sump just makes more sense
@@Deftonesdsm true I just thought a custom crossmember would sit alot closer to the shell of the car eliminating the big bulking stock one. Might be the same price for the dry sump lol
Maybe use spacers? Space the rack, space the subframe and space the engine mounts. I’m sure that’ll give you the clearance you need, aaaand literally as I’m typing I hear “no spacing, no compromise” hahaha good luck guys!
Yep :D. Those are all compromises I'm not willing to make.
Difficult to see exactly what you're working with space wise, but it seems to me you could space the subframe down slightly, raise the motor the same amount to maintain drive line angle and hood clearance. Move the subframe rearward a small amount, the motor forward a bit and clear it? Modified sump, new motor mounts and maybe a new steering shaft. I would also be interested to see how much you could cut down the adjuster, surely it doesn't need to be that proud of the rack body.
I suppose you considered this in the 35m time lapse discussion, though. Cool project, best of luck
As I mentioned in the video at length. I'm not moving the rack at all. That's how we did the conversion first time on this car 10 years ago. This time there will be no compromise to steering or suspension.
That cnc machined plate seems like the bulk of the cost for that kit, would imagine a cast or stamped sump would be considerably cheaper. Guess no one makes such a version though. Have guys considered cutting up the standard sump case and just buying a remote pump and tank? Would be cool to see you guys make it. Seems difficult however.
It's an extremely complicated design with built in internal porting for the vanos & filtered scavange zones.
You should be ok with the VAC Sump and pump dimensions. There’s a guy using one on an E30 M3 DCT Swap. Had the same issue on my E9x M3 build...
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Looks like a light coat of weld through Galv primer would be in order to stop the light flashing of rust on all of Jays handy-work while you continue fabrication 👍
All been sorted this week. Hopefully in Mondays episode.
Is there any room to fab up new mounts for the existing oil pump to move it out or down in a modified original sump? If it pumps with the front sprocket rotating in both directions it looks like it could be flipped so it sits out the front (quite drastic addition to the standard sump would be required, but thats just 2mm aluminium). I'm presuming it bolts at the top and you can't just mill off more material at its mounting point to move it up...
Really enjoying your videos by the way.
I considered it. Down isn't an option because ground clearance is tight. forward isn't an option as it'd spin the wrong way.
BEND FROM THE KNEES PHIL. Jay had the right idea when picking that gearbox up. I think DW needs some manual handling risk assessments
I'm strong. Jays back is made of match sticks 😄
@@driftworks poor Jay 😂😂 he deserves an extra chocolate digestive for all his graft
Insert Craig saying " I told you so " 😂😂😂😂
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Why not make a new tubular cross member / cradle (Craig made a new transmission mount for the car) that avoids every thing? We do it in the states all the time for cars. Look even if it cost 2k in fab you are still a full 6k cheaper than a dry sump? And the headers will probably still fit than too.
That wouldn't solve anything. The steering rack is the contact part. As I said in the video, I'm not compromising rack position.
You could make it left hand drive 😂
Even with the dry sump how will that solve the issue with the steering rack?
No thanks 🤓 The dry sump sits entirely above the rack.
Driftworks Driftworks sorry if I sound stupid , but how does the dry sump sit above the rack, when the cross member is not fully bolted down and the oil pump is already touching the rack?
Jason Jones with the dry sump the factory oil pump won’t be used.
Jextab Jextab thanks that explains everything 😎
Jason Jones happy to help 😊
As someone wanting to do this to my Z4MC I'm enjoying every second. Luckily my steering is on the left side. I sure could make the S54 pretty awesome for the cost of a 8K dry sump..
👍A built S54 is a wonderful thing also.
It’s been done here in New Zealand. I didn’t have much to do with it. But I saw the car in person where I was working at the time and whoever did it used the factory e60 front subframe modified to fit the e46 somehow. Perhaps food for thought?
I bought an E60 M5 subframe & rack to try that. It's a no go. Too many compromises to suspension & steering again.
Could you not lower just the steering rack and possibly modify your middle section of a sub-frame a little bit? Or perhaps use a different steering rack from a different car?
That's what we did the first time we did the conversion 10 years ago. It worked okay, but I want stock steering, steering column & uprights this time.
Phil has just spent the last 2 or 3 weeks explaining that he doesn’t want to do that. He did that last time as a compromise but there will be no compromise this time.
Do people ever watch the video before jumping into the comments section.
From someone that does and understands what you’re aiming for Phil, you (and Jay) have my complete admiration. Firstly for what you are doing and secondly for having great restraint in not screaming back at people in the comments section who keep asking the same questions 👍
@@sixcylinders6346He made a conscious decisions to replay to my question. It means that he thought that the question was worthwhile.
@@driftworks What if you just lower the steering rack by about 2-3 cm? Would it be too close to the ground?
After doing a bit of interwebs surfing, I am a little surprised to see that no one makes a tubular front crossmember for the e46 chassis, with factory geometry. I would think by now, one could be a viable replacement option for many people that are experiencing high levels of corrosion. I know it is a lot of work for a little bit of room, not completely where you need it, but what about it?
There's no advantage really. The standard crossmember is not M specific so a good one cost me £30.
@@driftworks 30BP for a used BMW front crossmember, gosh thats cheap. At that price there's really no sense in building a tubular member.
Bearing in mind its a road car, are you not tempted to drop the rack say 10mm, then drop the tie rod OBJ by the same amount at the knuckle? It won't be cock on with regards to bump steer but will be damn close
Thats what we did the first time we built it 10 years ago.. No compromise this time.
Love the tunes (and the video) keep them coming.
Cheers 👍
Where do guys like you lot get the knowledge and experience to pull off builds like this? It’s been a dream of mine to gain these kinds of skills but I’d have no idea where to start if i’m honest. A restoration garage, maybe?
Just by getting stuck in to anything mechanical we could from an early age.
Just wondering what this project is leading to in the future. Do you have plans to make this a repeatable engine swap package for sale to the public - a kit, or ship you a car & motor, you do the swap, then ship it back? OR, is this simply a personal project that you have no interest to do it a third time?
It's just for me. We don't work on other peoples cars & it's way too much custom work to be worth creating to sell.
Manual rack with electric assist?, they are a lot slimmer in the area where you need the space, especially if you can source one where the pinion is closer to the drivers side wheel
It's still not enough. I have a custom Titan engineering manual rack with power assist on my S65 E30 M3.
If you move the rack behind crossmember it might work. You may need a new crossmember. Also new steering arms and a reverse rotation rack. Surely far cheaper than dry sumping it.
The rack cannot be moved. It was moved the first time we did this many years ago.
@@driftworks Can I ask where you moved it from ? For correct ackerman, bump steer etc there can only be two places possible?. Before or after the cross member, appropriately located of course.
@@driftworks I just saw a picture under a similar car performancedrive.com.au/for-sale-2001-bmw-e46-m3-with-s85-v10-m5-engine-conversion-1023/ and it's obvious now why the rack cannot be moved to the rear of the cross member due to the lower suspension arms. I understand another constraint is the engine fore - aft position being rear biased for your build. Looks like a dry sump and some serious fiddling will be needed, not to mention dollars/pounds.. Love this sort of stuff. Have done a number of engine transplants my self but never quite that complex. Good luck with the build.
Watching this tonight, work to finish first...
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Do you guys think it will be the same problem with a LHD car? :D
I'm thinking about building something like that, but not sure yet
Like youre vids ;D
Seeing your fab skills, would it be possible to build a tubular subframe instead of chopping an OEM one ? It would be lighter, stronger and less complicated than going dry sump if it enables you toplace the steering rack proprely
It wouldn't help. The whole thing is to keep the rack exactly where it's meant to be.
Hi Phil, have you thought about moving rack behind crossmember and just modify hub carriers....something along the lines of VW solution.
The whole point of redoing this again is to make it work with stock steering.
phil i just watched an episode on youtube from back yard boyz they just bought an e39 m5 it has steering rack on the rear of the cross would member would that type of cross member and suspension and stubs brakes fit your car then it would be all factory no modding and you would have clearance go watch the episode i hope this helps cheers
No, it wouldn't fit without massive changes to everything. I have an E60M5 front crossmember & rack here that I looked into fitting. Again it's all a compromise & I'm not willing to do it.
Would spacing the front subframe down further be viable. Or making a new subframe that has more of a “u” shape in it that allows enough clearance?
Nevermind i watched the video 5 more minutes i got my answer. 😬
👍No compromise.
Now thats a challenge
Sure is!
@@driftworks none of this "we bought a kit from ____ and swapped a ____ engine in" like these non pro youtubers. They have their place but you guys are another level.
Apologies if I missed it, but what was wrong with the original setup? Thank you, loving the frequent updates by the way!
There were a few things that were imperfect. I had to make custom drop knuckles that I never really trusted 100%. It had an extra UJ in the steering column that meant I had to cut the chassis rail & the steering wheel became non adjustable. It was just compromised slightly.
*...you do the hokey pokey*
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I have a question, why you guys don't do all engine mounting like it was done before?🤔 is it just that you could keep standard m3 rack position? And what wrong was with the previous set up?
Thanks, ✌️
There was a load of re-engineered Steering & chassis parts that I want to put back to stock.
Love these videos!
Thanks 👍
This is escalating quite nicely 😅 Might be cheaper to put the engine in the back?
haha. Maybe.
Was the Austrilian one you saw a phionex yellow one from brintech customs in Sydney
It was yes.
Aside from all the steering/sump clearance issues, I couldn't understand the need to fit the clutch & flywheel prior to bolting the gearbox to the engine! Surely the gearbox/engine assembly as one unit is all that was needed to judge any mods to the sump or steering rack?
Yeah, but it's got to be done at some point, so why not now?
@@driftworks - but if the gearbox is going to be coming off again, possibly several times, it doesn't make any sense - ESPECIALLY if you didn't have the appropriate alignment tool! Effectively then, it was completely unnecessary and only done for the sake of practice? Do you NEED to practice??? It didn't make any kind of sense to me, so that's why I asked.
Would mess with your ackermann but you could swap the knuckles left to right and put the rack behind the subframe. Bump steer, instant centres etc would stay intact.
I don't want to modify any steering component or upright. That's what we did the first time we put the V10 in 10 years ago.
@@driftworks Fair enough. For my money, there'd be an angle grinder heading for the bulkhead. Good luck with it.
It's a road car. That would mean removing the heater matrix which as I've been saying to my friend Ash recently, just completely wrecks your car.
Hi i'm YES from thumbs up works, love this restoration idk if you can tell lmao
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What did they do with the rack the last time and why dont they do the same again?
It's all in the early episodes. Basically the rack was put in the wrong place with modified knuckles to compensate a little & a steering column that went through the chassis rail.
Jay'll get an LS in it yet!
That I can promise you will never happen 😁
Really awesome stuff!
Mind me asking how you got it in before and why not again?
Cheers. There's a big build thread on the Driftworks forum. custom crossmember with Mazda rack, chopped chassis rail, extra UJ in a customised steering column & modified knuckles to counter the bump steer added by the dropped rack.
Not entirely sure why you went to the effort of putting the flywheel/clutch in, if it's only to test fit the package?
The thinking was it had to go on at some point, so why not now. In hindsight..............
Love the unrealistic optimism, is what keeps mental builds alive! Good effort team💪
Do you happen to know how much heavier the V10 is compared to the straight 6? In my mind, it shouldn't be a whole lot considering the 6 used an iron block.
It's listed at 27kg heavier I believe.
Is there any way you can reposition the stock oil pump? Less work then going dry sump
I thought about it. it would need locating on the opposite side of the vanos pump so it'd stick out really far possibly causing more problems.
would the interference of the steering rack and oil pump be resolved if the car is LHD? i can see there is much more space on the other side due to the oil pan shape
It would yeah, it's loads easier on a LHD car.
That’s bad news haha. I found this vid because I wanna swap this engine in my r32 gtr. I don’t wanna spend crackhead prices on a 200km probably blown up rb26.
You should just lower the rack a couple mm and modify the center of the subframe it should fit
The rack would need lowering around 40mm. The subframe isn't interfering at all. As mentioned in the video. I'm not willing to move the rack.
🤟 2 updates in a week 😁
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Modify the crossmember and custom rack mount/different rack
That's what we did the first time. As discussed in the vid at length, this time there's no compromise to the rack position.
Some spacers on the subframe and rack bolts to bring them down lower?
That compromises suspension, steering & ground clearance.
Could u not find a steering rack from a different car that fits and make a new subframe
That's what we did the first time we did this 10 years ago. I'm going for an uncompromised stock steering rack / steering column, crossmember knuckes, tie rods & chassis rail this time. There's loads of pictures of how we did it the first time in the build thread on the Driftworks Forum if you're interested.
Driftworks how does the m5/6 get around this issue ? Does the engine just sit higher in the car in relation to the steering rack ?
or you can use a steering box insted of steering rack like on a mercedes clk w208 just an idea
That definitely ticks the 'I'm not modifying the steering' box 🤓
How often do you go to work in good clothes and you end up rolling round the workshop floor
Not that clued up on this stuff but does it sound insane but could you turn the subframe 180 degrees and swap the hubs left to right and vise versa
Or cut and shut the subframe like s14s and use rack offset spacers to get the arms back to where they need to be
Often. That's why I basically don't have any nice clothes 🤓. No that wouldn't work. caster, trail & ackerman would be all kinds of messed up.
some american old v8 engines have external oil pump.not dry sump or anything like that.
Yeah it was considered. Too much risk/engineering.
I think manhart racing from GERMANY did a E46 M3 V10 engine swap in the past.
There are quite a few of them now.
@driftworks Are you keeping AC with the dry sump? Was looking into it also but figuring out how to make the ac compressor work seemed like a pain. Mine's LHD so its already a lot easier (maybe that's the solution :p) so I ultimately decided against it. Costs didn't help either. I think you also need to convert to an electric power steering pump (not that big a deal but something else to think about).
I hope to be able to fit AC. It never had it when we first did the conversion, so it's not a deal breaker.
What effect would it have moving the engine 50mm further forward? Would you really notice it when driving?
Would save a ton of cash!
Engine is already quite a bit forward as it's a v10 and this car originally comes with inline 6, the inline 6 is quite long so probably the v10 sits about the same as the inline 6. Bringing the engine forward would increase lots of the nose weight and change the whole cars 50/50 weight ratio. If you have seen bmw pushes all it's engine past the strut towers to make it more of a mid engine car which drives much better, less understeer etc. Also it would introduce new problems with having the engine too close to radiators and other stuff on the front.
It's slightly shorter than the S54, but the rule with pretty much any build is the engine goes as far back as possible. Anything else is too much of a compromise for me.
The S85 is quite a light engine due to being all alloy and doesn't weigh much more than the S54 so wouldn't really effect balance much. Just a nicer package if fit it as far back as you can :)
What gearbox have you used for the swap?
E92 M3
I never realised how low that engine sits inside the engine bay. S54 is such a tall engine compared to S85.
Yep even though the S54 is angled too.
Could you not just fab a completely custom subframe and adapt hubs to suit spacing the rack! Probably have a bucket load of change from 8k!
That's what we did the first time we put the V10 in this car nearly 10 years ago. As mentioned in the video I'm not willing to modify/compromise any steering or suspension component & I'm not willing to move the engine.
Don’t forget to remove that clutch snap ring!
Did you watch the bit in this vid about us finding that the snap ring hadn't been removed by the person who fitted the clutch for the last owner? & why it has to be removed?
What’s the pump on the side of the sump for? Oil cooler?
On the dry sump kit I showed on my phone? Its the main engine oil pump.
Why couldn't you have an electronic scavenger oil pump instead of a mechanical one down the side?
I really don't want to start reinventing the wheel when it comes to the engine.
Can't you get an e60 subframe and rack and modify that to the e46.
I have one as I that was one of the first ideas.There's no way to do it without changing a lot of other stuff that I don't want to change.
£8k just to make the engine fit! 😲
Heres me debating whether £305 for some adjustable toe and camber arms for my E92 from your store is a worthwhile 'investment' 🤔
It's madness isn't it. I can man logic (or Phil logic, which is one up) my way through this by persuading myself it'll assist in my ultimate goal of a de-stroked 9,500rpm engine build in the future so I 'HAVE TO BUY IT'
Just move it forward a bit. Even if the subframe is in the middle of the 5x2 cylinders, overall 50/50 balance won't be compromised with the weight of the transmission etc and still prob better than the iron I6. Soooo much cheaper than dry sump which is for lowering centre of grav, not fixing clearance issues. Better to preserve the steering and suspension geometry as stock. Every deviation from the factory is a compromise but the factory finish was itself a compromise (comfort, performance, NVH etc). You're placing an engine in a space that it was not designed to fit in! You WILL have to compromise! That's the first lesson of engineering... anything.
As a BMW fan boy and E46 M3, E46 330i Touring and BMW based Marlin Sportser car builder, you are my favorite thing to come home to at the mo btw. Just love every minute, especially Jay's shrug, 'let's have a go' attitude.
Nope. Unacceptable.
@@driftworks it would be a lot cheaper to just make your own dry sump then than buying one of those billet machined ones. The pumps cost what they cost but the markup on a bit of aluminium is daylight robbery.
Check this particular Dailey Engineering vanos oil pan out. It's a work of art.
@@driftworks pretty, shame it's going to be hidden. How much? I can't see on their site. I'm working on an M73 into an E46 and they have one for that too😃
Didn't all of this fit when you pulled the engine out of the same car? I'm so confused as to how it doesn't fit now. Did I miss an episode during the build that explained that part?
It did yeah, we're doing it differently this time, with no (or less) compromise to steering / suspension & chassis. I think in episode one I show the custom drop knuckles & talk about the steering rack maybe. (possibly not though) I should probably talk about it in detail in a future episode as it's confused a few people.
Driftworks yeah, if you could briefly go over it in the next video, that would be awesome. I try to follow all of the insane builds you guys do, all the way back to the insane s15 y’all built years ago. Ever since then, I’ve been a fan.
use an external wet sump pump instead of a dry sump
Thought about it. Decided against it as the Dailey kit has other benefits for the future.
Was the clutch transport ring not still on when Jay bolted it up? Keep up the hard work its good inspiration!
Robin McGrath it’s still there now, it’s going to be in and out a few times before final assembly.
@@JayDontGotThis yea makes sense!
Didn't watch the bit where we talk about the clutch transport ring at length I take it? 😄
@@driftworks I did. Just thought Jay said he was taking it off and worried he'd missed it. The content is great on these builds. Dream car stuff.
How much more cashews do you have to spend on a older car like the impala overseas. ?
Here in the states 20k will get you a pristine oldschool.
They're all imported from the states, so we pay the same as you plus shipping & import costs.
Can you not space the subframe down and the engine up a little?
As I said in the video that's not an option as it's too big a compromise.
Would it be possible to get a lhd rack and put rack behind the subframe turned upside down, then come to some agreement with steering arms/space to get the 2 to meet.
Possible, but it would completely wreck caster, trail 7 ackerman.
Think you might have misunderstood my idea. It is not to change hub position just the steering arms, as in the steering arms facing to the rear not the front, welded on rear of the hub.
My thinking was not to alter the upright or wishbone position, leave them as standard
I don't want modified knuckles. The first time I did this build I dropped the rack down & dropped the steering arm down the same amount.