Elin, this is what I was taught with installing freeze plugs and I have always used it on my engines with no leaks. Glad you showed this to everyone as this is some "old school" engine knowledge that needs to be passed on.
Good video. Important engine building detail. If you have ever seen a plug originally installed by the factory, they are pounded flat. Adding the aviation sealer is a good idea, but a flattened plug will seal even better than just a dimple.
That original core plug was a lot further out than the one you installed Elin. It didn't look like it was even on the shoulder. But putting a dimple in the dome type core plugs was always what we did. I used to use a ball pein hammer reversed and hit with another hammer.
The original cam shaft had a small hole drilled through the rear of the cam. This allowed any built up oil pressure between the core plug and back of cam to drain away. I have seen core plugs blown out of the block by built up oil pressure when using aftermarket cams that do not have the bleed off drilling.
As noted in another response, another trick that racers use to keep those plugs sealed and secure is epoxy (in combination with dumpling the plug, like you did Elin). In fact, that's why I just watched this older video, to see if you were going to use epoxy.
This is great! I think I have the exact same issue on my car as I see a slight bit of oil under that plug, and my clutch plate was very oily and I had a problem with the clutch slipping. The bell housing was covered in oil. Good instruction on how to fix it!
Really liked this one. Cant wait to try my stinger next time i am removing a core plug. Btw the TR6 comp prep manual has you use epoxy on that plug to stop leaks. I just did that on my TR6 that I am rebuilding. But now I want to redo it and smack it!
Well, I actually tried removing the freeze plugs on a TR6 engine with the stinger recently and it didn't work as it did in this video, so I went back to "chiseling" them out again. But maybe it will work for you...
Elin, this is what I was taught with installing freeze plugs and I have always used it on my engines with no leaks. Glad you showed this to everyone as this is some "old school" engine knowledge that needs to be passed on.
Good video. Important engine building detail. If you have ever seen a plug originally installed by the factory, they are pounded flat. Adding the aviation sealer is a good idea, but a flattened plug will seal even better than just a dimple.
That original core plug was a lot further out than the one you installed Elin. It didn't look like it was even on the shoulder. But putting a dimple in the dome type core plugs was always what we did. I used to use a ball pein hammer reversed and hit with another hammer.
The original cam shaft had a small hole drilled through the rear of the cam. This allowed any built up oil pressure between the core plug and back of cam to drain away.
I have seen core plugs blown out of the block by built up oil pressure when using aftermarket cams that do not have the bleed off drilling.
As noted in another response, another trick that racers use to keep those plugs sealed and secure is epoxy (in combination with dumpling the plug, like you did Elin). In fact, that's why I just watched this older video, to see if you were going to use epoxy.
This is great! I think I have the exact same issue on my car as I see a slight bit of oil under that plug, and my clutch plate was very oily and I had a problem with the clutch slipping. The bell housing was covered in oil. Good instruction on how to fix it!
I use to put gasket sealer around flange, pressed it back in then knocked the concave dome in with a small hammer, never had a problem 👍👍👍👍
Terrific information as always, looking forward to new videos
Very good info, thanks Elin
great tip Elin, thank you
Timely! I'm in the midst of chasing down some oil leaks on my TR3A too.
Elin, you said the owner said the oil pressure was 100 psi. Then he reduced the pressure- assuming to normal range. How did he reduce it?
Really liked this one. Cant wait to try my stinger next time i am removing a core plug. Btw the TR6 comp prep manual has you use epoxy on that plug to stop leaks. I just did that on my TR6 that I am rebuilding. But now I want to redo it and smack it!
Well, I actually tried removing the freeze plugs on a TR6 engine with the stinger recently and it didn't work as it did in this video, so I went back to "chiseling" them out again. But maybe it will work for you...
@@RustyBeauties got me thinking though. Next time I may try mig welding a steel rod on one, and pry it out, or slide hammer it out.
Great info thx for the video great one 🚗👍😊
Great Diplomacy!
You need another removable sheet of plywood to protect the bench during jobs like that ! And a removable leg to support the middle of the bench !
Thanks for sharing this!
Good information, thanks.
Did it work?!
Cool!
More TR3 work Elin
Did anybody else's butt pucker when he ran that wire wheel into the hole?
Yes would not want to contaminate the cam brg with stray wire or debris from the wire buff.
That's called a welch plug ua-cam.com/video/rjmVdUmKuBg/v-deo.html