I'll have to check out Poundland's most recent lamps and see if they've gone in the same direction. It would be interesting to nudge the sense resistor value up to move between intensity and lifespan.
5 років тому+2
I opened a stupid 15w 1500 lumens 1 euro lamp and it was crap and it had an TÜV certification.
@@adriansdigitalbasement Another fun fact: Its called Volvo Parkway, as that is the corporate headquarters for Volvo Penta. Volvo Penta is Volvo's (the car company) maritime and industrial division.
@@finkelmana Nitpicking, but it is actually not Volvo the car company, it is Volvo the truck company, that owns Volvo Penta. The car company is owned by Geely (chinese) nowadays and just shares the name.
I bought a bunch of these and took a *hammer* to them to get to the electronics! C1 is a smoothing Cap. -- Dimming on the *AC* *side* usually *doesn't* *work* . But on the secondary side of the bulb, you can.
I’m glad I found these videos. My house for 3 years has been powered by bulbs from the DT. Sunbeam and the Green Brier brand with is basically Dollar Tree. Just last week I found the 75 watt daylight versions in stock and the 100watt version in warm (they are pretty damn bright for a dollar.) The 75 watt daylight ones are my favorite.
I find the lifespan of those cheap LED bulbs can vary pretty drastically. I've had some of different brands last quite a while, and some last a month or so before they start flickering or go super dim. When they start flickering, it always makes me think there is something wrong with my fixtures, since I'm so used to flickering being a fixture issue with incandescent bulbs and not with the LED bulb or boards on them. Also, something I've noticed about some cheap LED bulbs, the light can be kind of harsh on my eyes, even if its covered in a lamp shade and I'm just catching the light in my peripheral vision, yet incandescent light doesn't really seem to bother me like a LED light can.
I bought a bunch of these bulbs, about 15 for all my lights that don't need special bulbs or dimmers, about 2 years ago, I have yet to replace any of them. Great value IMO. Besides they're a buck, I'm not expecting top of the line technology, just a cheap light bulb that lights a room and doesn't have to be replaced often.
We bought a couple dozen of these. Two of them dimmed on their own after less than 15 minutes use, but the others are lighting a basement like it's a baseball park. We dug up and put in 2-gallon containers some of our vegetable garden to take with us when we move, and these lights plus one of those reddish colored grow lights on each plant are keeping sweet and hot peppers, cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes still alive and even producing fruit as long as we self-pollinate them.
Thanks. This same chip is used in Dollar Store LED night lights, they are very bright for nightlights, rated 0.4W, and plug directly into a 120V outlet. I popped off the top cover and found a bridge rectifier, fuse resistor, a resistor that probably controls the current, and the eg1000a constant current driver. This device has only 4 LEDs in series and no caps at all, and a regular PCB instead of aluminum. Since I'm wanting to reduce the flicker, I'll probably add a 10nF cap across the DC side of the rectifier, and populate the 10nf pad where c2 is on that application example, "plays the role of anti-surge buffer, avoiding the instantaneous breakdown of IC and improving product reliability" .. at least according to Google translate. These are great for lighting a hallway that just needs a little light all the time. 4 tenths of a watt 24/7/365 at 6.75 cents per KWH will cost about 24 cents a year LOL.
That second pad is probably for a dual mode output. So you can have multiple strings of LEDs, and the chip detects power on/off cycles over a quick time. So you switch it on/off a few times to change modes. Can have warm/cool/mixed modes at 20mA per string, or a single 40mA mode depending how you set it up.
This is an excellent review because it covers usability and function for the user as well as technical details for those knowledgeable. And it was all done without making it a long, distracting video.
It was a recommended light bulb video after watching one of Big Clive's that brought me to your channel years ago. Nice to see a throwback to the old days..
I've bought a few dimmable 75w bulb in the past here in Itlay for something like 1.5-2€. They were light, built as cheap as possible and lasted about a month or so. Never bought one that cheap since. Now I'm using 60-75w bulbs that cost about 3.5.-5€ each and they work fine for about a year or two (the heat destroys the leds)
Thanks for the review. This 75W/12W warm white bulb has 12 LED SMD chips. Each chip has 4 LED blue die for a total of 48 LED in series, at about 2.8V per LED die = about 134 VDC. The blue LED die are surrounded by phosphor emitting white light producing warm white. The bridge rectifier is probably a MB10F 1000V rated. The 8-pin chip is constant current chip with thermal protect probably RM9003B, the resistor configures the current. I tore down the 60W/9W daylight bulb. It has 8 SMD chips with 6 die per chip, and a 10 uf 200 V capacitor.
Now I KNOW Google is tracking my purchases. I just got home from the Dollar Tree where I bought x12 of the 100 watt equivalent (1500 lumen). Clicked on my iPhone and your video popped up as a suggestion. I'll check it out because I'm like you and want to see how it's made so cheaply.
@@adriansdigitalbasement I'm in Independence, Missouri. The 100 watt bulbs are the same brand as the one you tore down. Knowing how rare they are I need to make a run and buy another dozen to replace all of my old 60's that were used to replace the incandescents. Funny these bulbs list the life span that they do. Heck, at the rate by which they improve I replace them long before they burn out. The old one's aren't thrown away, rather given to people who are not able afford pay their electric bill little lone buy an energy saving bulb that could reduce their electric bill in the first place.
Those were good for making low voltage light strips, back when their LEDs were 8V & could be rewired in series for a used laptop power supply. Now, the LED voltage is 11V, so they would require running in parallel or spending a lot more than the cost of the bulbs on a new power supply.
I like how you are one of the very few people that acctually use a vcr for your intro and not some crappy filter that looks nothing like vhs. But if you do use a filter it looks prettymuch identical to vhs.
I bought a bunch of 60 watt equivalent Dollar Tree LED bulbs in two packs a few years ago for my basement and other places. They still work well. I had one die that was in a lamp but I think it was the fault of the lamp. The also had some smaller 60 watt ones that were $1 each that were rated for use in enclosed fixtures. I bought six of those for my two kitchen fixtures. Those are still working also.
capacitor dropper converter must run in specifications frequency(dimmable with varying voltage), but switch converter can run even powered from dc(dimming ability depend on converter).
I live in Canada and (our own chain of Dollar Stores) Dollarama sells 60 watt LED bulbs for 4-5 bucks and I dont think I've seen 75 watt LED bulbs yet. Though I'm pretty happy with the 60 watt LED I have as its a little cooler (but not Cool white) and so it really brights up my moderately sized apartment bedroom and actually makes me really happy to have this much light even when the days get short and the darkness takes hold at night and in the winter.
Manufacturers in China eke out a minuscule profit. And the workers are exploited. Miserable lives for everyday low prices. Can’t say that’s a sustainable arrangement.
I have one of the LED 60 watt ones I bought, I wanna say, like 2 years ago? Whenever they first appeared at my local Dollar Tree, in the light above my stove, it's been on ever since I bought it, I leave it on for a night a light of sorts. Wonder how long it'll last.
I still only see the 60 watt ones at my locations, but I'll for sure be keeping an eye open for the 100watt as they would be good for the front porch light, and backyard lights.
Thanks for posting and sharing. The old screw in fluorescent bulbs are being phased out or at least I cannot find them as easily in my area that I used to and I have wondered about the comparison of these newer screw in LED's to the old screw in fluorescent bulbs.
I was recently in Toronto Canada and the cheapest bulb I could find at Walmart, Canadian Tire, and Home Depot was well over $2. In fact, most LED lighting products averaged 2-3x as expensive as the same product when bought in the US. I'm sure this has to do with import regulations more so than the currency exchange rate.
LEDs are my favorites. Menards (regional hdwr) has been my supplier for 7 years. Early versions 'claimed' 25 yr life, I returned several that often lasted under a year, always-on, BTW. Westinghouse and Sylvania the trusted names were the names on these Chinese products. Seventy-five watt LED bulbs are becoming popular at dollar stores in MN.
They have this bulb, and the Sylvania or may be the sunbeam bulb for $1 often at our DollarTrees. We have a lot of them. They work great. Since they're as cheap as an incandescent, we just grab these instead. I didn't know about the not enclosed thing (who reads the bottom of bulbs?!).. this makes sense, as we always put these in our front of the house lights, which are the typical enclosed glass style. One of them went out the other day. When I replaced it, I noticed the plastic has totally split down the side (the lower portion). I could only imagine due to heat. Otherwise, these things work great. They still get blown out now and then if you have janky wiring, power surges, etc in your house, but for $1, who cares...a normal bulb will do the same. Our kitchen bulbs were constantly getting blown out too, once we switched over to the cheap $1 LED bulbs, they never blew out again, I guess they can take the surges or whatever is going on.
Very interesting. I tore down a failed 60W equivalent LED bulb just to see what was in there. It was pretty similar. BTW, I am doing a study on how long these bulbs last . The LEDs, if not overheated, will probably last 8 years or more, but of course the light output level will decrease somewhat with age. But the electronics, especially the electrolytic caps, will most likely be the failure item on most LED bulbs and that will come way before the LEDs fail in most cases. So far I have had only three bulbs fail. The months of life of those three are: 9 months, 27 months and 33 months. WAY less than any manufacturer's claim. I have not done any diagnostics to see what failed in any of these bulbs. I did a similar study on CFL bulbs used in my household. I had 30 bulbs fail over a period of about 6-1/2 years. The average life length of those bulbs was 35 months with the shortest being 12 and 13 months and the longest being 68 and 69 months. Given the difference in cost of the CFLs vs incandescent (disregarding electricity usage), incandescents are a better buy. When including cost of electricity, I'm pretty sure the CFLs win, but not by nearly the margin we were led to believe. Will the same be true for LEDs?
lowes has GE Basic 60-Watt EQ A19 Soft White LED Light Bulb (16-Pack) for 19.00 that brakes down to 1.18 ea. and so far they are really good lights i haven't tore one apart yet. I think I will do that this weekend, and see whats in it. 😈
I bought maybe 10 of the 60 watt bulbs, thinking they were a great buy. One thing I found out quick, you can only snug them up when screwing in, or it will separate where the plastic meets the metal. Then I had to replace four of them within the first month after they quit working. These did not say to not use in an enclosed light fixture, but maybe they burnt out because they over heated as you mentioned the 75 watt version might.
One important fact that is often missed in a teardown like this is how that one 125C electrolytic capacitor is the one component that will limit the bulb's life, NOT the LEDs. The problem is that even though the capacitor is rated for 1,000 hour of life at 125C (that's a mere 6 weeks, folks), its useful life increases as its exposed temperature decreases. The derating is a doubling of life for every 10C temp decrease below 125C. In this case, if the temp is limited by the little current regulator down to 85C, which is four 10 degrees C increments, meaning that the capacitor's useful life is stretched out to 4 x 1,000 = 4,000 hours. If you have the light on for 4 hours per day, then this capacitor is going to fail (on average) after 4000/4 = 1000 days. That's a bit less than 3 years. LED lamps are usually advertised as "lasting for 50,000 or 100,000 hours," as in "infinite life." What is missed is that the onboard filter capacitor will fail much sooner than that!
Wow, I haven't seen a PET in a long time.... Long live the Motorola 6502. I miss zero-page 6502 assembly language programming. I live in Portland also, glad I found you!!
@@ryanobarr4603, You are correct, and I wish you could have corrected me back in 1980 when my technical faux-pas had to have began, the most, most coolest thing is you are the first to have caught my error ever and I am grateful. I really do like your work, bench skills, and tools. I'm a digital-hoarder of sorts, I like to collect tech-ref manuals, hard to find old software, and more. I was an id10t, I worked a lot and never had the time to organize the video/audio/software/coding/documents...etc... I was downloading. My answer was "Buy more hard drives". Then it became Debian smb FileServers, and port-forwarded Apache webservers, then came Streaming of data. If you have a request for anything hard to find I will help out! The other day a friend wanted the old DOS "Jive" filter... You pipe a txt file through it and it comes out altered. Happy Thanksgiving! P.S. I used to use SoftIce, then WinIce, now I use IdaPro... as a side note
I don't know about that the best 100 Watt equivalent light bulb I've ever seen at Dollar tree was a CFL bulb for $1 but that still doesn't beat the 75 Watt equivalent LED bulb since it's more energy efficient and more long lasting it's also the best LED bulb I've ever seen at Dollar tree.
@@ColbyJohnson I am talking about the new circuit now formed when the triac is added. Oh, I see you said "other bulbs"... I meant when he hooked it in with the lamp. It's now being cut on and off by that triac as well.
@@johnpossum556 yep I'm following you know. I was like hmm, what's this guy talking about haha. Right, we aren't sure what's in the lamp. It could be a switching triac (with its own frequency) or a power potentiometer (old school). The potentiometer type won't dim the LEDs at all since the led driver is current control not voltage control (either be on or off). The triac switching type will cause flickering or random on/off cycles.
About a year ago we could get 2 Packs of 100W Equivalent (14W) Dimmable Sunbeam bulbs for $1, but they were cheap because they were subsidized by Indiana Michigan Power/AEP. I tore one down because it fell apart because I had ran it in an enclosed fixture and I think the heat embrittled the plastic standoffs that hold the power supply into the aluminum base of the bulb, so when I went to unscrew it from the fixture the power supply stuck in the socket and the whole top part of the bulb pulled from it, other than that it seemed pretty well constructed, the aluminum part of the bulb was pretty heavy and the power supply was potted in epoxy so it was pretty well protected against moisture.
I've bought about a dozen of the 60 watt equivalent Sunbeam bulbs over the last year. At this time, about one-third of them have failed. They are all in open fixtures so the bulbs should not be dying due to excess heating. One of the failures was the current regulating chip and the others have been LED burn outs. I jumpered one of the burned out LEDs and the bulb worked for a month or two before another LED failed. Some of the failures happened within a month so I think there are problems either in the LED manufacturing or in the thermal path when they are mounted on the aluminum board. Since the defective bulbs have to be shipped to California, Dollar Tree probably isn't having to do many warranty replacements on the $1 bulbs. If the failure rate remains under 50%, the bulbs are still a good buy with the advantage that they do not generate radio frequency noise that would interfere with my radio listening hobby.
Yeah same, and I can even remember when I got a 5watt LED bulb for $6 where you can see the individual LED's inside the clear glass bulb, and it's barely brighter then a night light, and I stoked to get it. I still use it as a night light for my youngest niece in my guest room.
Yeah, there's pretty much no reason to buy anything *but* LED's for anything but niche applications, like high-heat or high-moisture installations. With units that fit every conceivable size, and even bare-'filament' types, there's just not any need for incandescent any more. (And why anybody would buy CFL's today is beyond me.) The only thing that bugs me is it's getting harder to find fixtures with just plain old sockets; fixtures with integrated LED's mean you have to junk the whole thing when it burns out, which doesn't necessarily take very long if it's poorly-made.
Poundland's LED bulbs I own are pretty good, they briefly had some 510lm 3500k 6 Watt bulbs which I bought a bunch of, and they're all working great to this day, their other 470lm 5.5w ones are less nice to look at though, and sadly are the ones still sold today, so can't always have everything I guess... :)
Might be time to readdress this topic. Dollar Tree seems to have a new provider (Yamao) with a different circuit. The 9W/60w equiv now uses a four terminal smd (SOT-223?) marked "9003b J0071" that does not show up on Google. The current sense resistor to it is a 7R50 (7.5 ohms). I've not torn a 12w/75w equiv apart yet.
I've purchased 60W equivalent Sunbeam LED bulbs from Dollar Tree. They all went bad after a few months of use. They would start to flash or flicker. Walmart has some that are about $2 each they seem to hold up much better. No problems yet.
A little while back I was enjoying one of your pet videos when the thought occurred to me, I could have sworn I originally saw you tearing down LED light bulbs before rediscovering your channel later when you were repairing computers. I figured I was misremembering, but nope! 😀
@@adriansdigitalbasement "Today, I'll be working with Junkyard Digs, Thunderhead298 and Dylan McCool to try and get this abandoned Ford pickup truck running...!" (cue ADB credits intermixed with JYD credits)
I have the same brand as the one in the video, my bulb do not turn off right away, they slowly dim out giving off a bluish color. I think they have about six months of use.
@@WayneWatson1 The better quality or name brand bulbs I have do not do this, the less expensive off brand bulbs do. I noticed my Dollar Tree bulbs doing this a few weeks ago. Somewhere I read an article on why that happens, perhaps @BigClivedotcom mentioned why in one of his tear downs.
I have seen Indian LED lightbulb repair videos and such, they have ventilation slits on theirs. I have taking to drilling a few small holes in mine, one on the bottom or side of the translucid plastic cap, depending of how they will be mounted, and a few on the plastic base, behind the alu disk. I use a stop on the drill bit so that it barely can get inside, and drill twhere from taking one apart I know it's empty space.
Went looking for a couple of these for cheap abusable task lighting and only found a 100W equiv 1500 lumens 14 watt (claimed) model, claims to actually be suitable for enclosed fixtures, same "fs" logo on the bulb body. Board layout is similar but two rows of 12 leds (24 total) and two EG1000A regulator chips, 2019/5/21 date. May be the new and improved replacement model? My killawatt shows 12.6 watts, PF .65, no drop over time running in a fairly open desk lamp. Not sure I believe 120lm/W out of a dollar bulb, but they are pretty damn bright with decent color quality and flicker free. I think I'll go back for a few more.
@ 9:00 When he pops the top off. I did that to one of my bulbs and it makes a great spot light for over the stove. Nice and bright and very directional.
@@redoverdrivetheunstoppable4637 I live in a desert and I have a hood fan. Avg. Humidity around 25%. For a dollar it is cheaper than an actual purpose made 'spot' light.
@@charlesdahmital8095 i meant for the stove, whatever you cook makes humidity and that sticking grease that i bet is conductive, i had several bulbs failed bcs of rain humidity, not direct rain, it may catch fire and also if you touch the exposed parts you may get shocked
Generally I've moved over to LED lamps now. However I still keep a few incandescent bulbs - they are great fault current limiters if you cant afford a Variac!
The apartment where my mom lives is old and the incandescent light bulbs would blow out really fast sometimes in a few hours . I got some of these lights at the dollar tree and they have been going strong for over a year now.
You don't need a step up transformer, just use your dryer, or oven plug. Just get an appliance cable from the hardware store (or a junk dryer or oven) and wire it to whatever outlet is convienient in a handy box - presto 240V!
I use the 100 and 75-watt versions of these and they do not get to hot for me to handle. They really do not get very warm. Of course, I don't take them apart. LOL> Yes there is now a 100 watt 1500 lumen version of these for $1 at dollar tree as well! They are awesome!
In Austria (not Australia ;-)) the led filament bulbs are more or less the standard now. There are packs of 3 sold under supermarket brands for 6 Euros. But below 1 Euro for a LED bulb is insanely cheap.
I have bought several $1 LED bulbs in the last few years from 99cent store and Dollar Tree. If you want great light and color then avoid soft white. I get the regular or white light variety. I believe 6500k
Dimmers basically PWM the AC power so anything like this with a built-in power supply will either just stay on when the caps can smooth out the power, or start flickering when they can't.
From Australia. Bunnings which is sort of like Costco has LED light bulbs the cheapest from $19 ,it's a smart globe think it's a 60w equiv. Supermarket has LED globes for $4.50 ea in a 2 pack, but again 60w equiv.
@@adriansdigitalbasement Could be, if they don't get in as many of those as they do the 75W bulbs. I see they have them on their website! www.dollartree.com/soft-white-100-watt-equivalent-medium-base-led-lightbulbs/297620
Spotted at the Dollar Tree here in Canada for $1.25 CAD. Hopefully they continue to sell the 8w "60w" version. It seems to run much cooler. It's a little annoying that the aluminum heatsink is covered with a plastic sleeve, but I realize it has to be for electrical insulation. These capacitive droppers don't have any electrical isolation, so any exposed component can be live in reference to ground.
The government might start subsidizing them. One or two won't make a difference to the amount of electricity a country is using but hundreds of millions will make a considerable impact.
This bulb is almost exactly the same inside as the 60W variant. The only difference is the 60W variant has a 10 ohm resistor instead of an 8.2 ohm. The light could be dimmed by inserting a 100 ohm potentiometer in series with that resistor. I would really like to know what the unused pin on that chip does.
I Cut The Plastic Bulbs off 8 of These Type Bulbs...But, Higher Lumen Bulbs And 4 CFL Bulbs 100W......And was Able To Grow Plants And Got Them To "Flower" Beautifully !!!...I Did build A Light Rack to hold ALL The Bulbs...Just 4 boards...Made into a "Square" with 12 Holes Drilled for the Light fixtures....3 per side....and Strung up with Light Chains...To Raise it as The Plants Grow....About 8 weeks..from start to Flower......Great and Cheap winter Project...For Amatuer Indoor Plant Growers???
Rectified and capped 120VAC should become 160 VDC after rect and being tanked across the 'lytic cap. You said the string of LEDs in series was about 138 VDC, so I'm guessing that 8 pin is a constant current voltage drop set by its adjacent resistors to get rid of the 22 V difference and protect the LEDs from overvoltage.
i worked as a mechanic and lightbulbs were a major issue on your work spotlight bcs of the glass breaking, it was the most fragile thing around your head when the car was lifted
I do that with the Walmart brand 100 Watt equivalent LED bulbs without the plastic outer shell the bulb is about as bright as a 150 Watt equivalent light bulb.
The 75 watt equivalent led bulb I bought at the Dollar tree (same this video reviews), just doesn't seem as bright as when I first got it about a month ago. Still brighter than a 60 watt equivalent led bulb though. Like the sunbeam 60 watt equivalent ones, but the dollartree brand ones (like this 75 watt one reviewed) didn't last long for me. Would sit there and flash when turned on, for awhile it would stop flashing and actually work, but then either just flashed or not work at all. Now a the local store has are, 40, 60, and 100 watt equivalent led bulbs. Guessing something got too hot in the 60 as it was in a table lamp that gets used for many hours at a time, where I have the 75 now. No dimmers in my small apartment, just lights that are either on or off. Tempted to get a 100 to see if that does the same as the 75, just normally dimmer after it's been used a few weeks.
Dollar Tree had 100W Sunbeam brand LED bulbs a couple years ago too, but they were rare. The crazy thing is that they were sold in pairs and still only cost a dollar. I'll have to check mine to see if they're back again.
I wish you could show us how to disassemble some components from this and make something else from them.That would be for us old timer electronic enthusiasts.
If it was bright white, it would be better. 3,000 is not as bad as 2,700 but it still is yellow. The 5,000K is coming down, but still over $1. The good news is the PAR 38 5,000K bulbs are own to $9, as opposed to $25 3 years ago.
There is now a 100 watt equiv. 1500 lumen version of these at dollar tree for $1 they are great. They do not get very hot in my use. That might be different in an tight enclosure, I wouldn't know.
and to be honest, these are technically more expensive than home depot or anywhere else. We can buy 24 packs of sylvania led bulbs at home depot for $22.78!
I'll have to check out Poundland's most recent lamps and see if they've gone in the same direction. It would be interesting to nudge the sense resistor value up to move between intensity and lifespan.
I opened a stupid 15w 1500 lumens 1 euro lamp and it was crap and it had an TÜV certification.
Clive, I know you'll have something interesting to add.
@@Landrew0 I just bought a few similar lamps from Poundland and they are all still using capacitive droppers.
@@bigclivedotcom Cheers!🍻👍
Look at the bulb. What is VL Listed? 😂😂😂
I have about 45 of these in my house. I've only had to replace 4 of them over the last 3 years. That's a decent bargain in my book.
Lol! I live around the corner from 500 Volvo Parkway. Thats the corporate headquarters for Dollar Tree.
@@adriansdigitalbasement Another fun fact: Its called Volvo Parkway, as that is the corporate headquarters for Volvo Penta. Volvo Penta is Volvo's (the car company) maritime and industrial division.
@@finkelmana Nitpicking, but it is actually not Volvo the car company, it is Volvo the truck company, that owns Volvo Penta. The car company is owned by Geely (chinese) nowadays and just shares the name.
Yup, that's the same address that's on all the ginseng I buy through them.
@@cdoex1 Heh, even Volvo doesnt want Volvo cars.
The Canadian importer DTS - stands for Dollar Tree Stores
I bought a bunch of these and took a *hammer* to them to get to the electronics! C1 is a smoothing Cap.
--
Dimming on the *AC* *side* usually *doesn't* *work* . But on the secondary side of the bulb, you can.
Love these kind of vids about the funutions and durability of cheap elecctronic products. Great video.
I have 6 of there 100's and 3 of the 75's watt equivalent from dollar tree. I've bee using them for about a year and they're still going strong!
Wow, I just typed in "Dollar Tree Lightbulb" and here you are to help me learn! Thanks
I’m glad I found these videos. My house for 3 years has been powered by bulbs from the DT. Sunbeam and the Green Brier brand with is basically Dollar Tree. Just last week I found the 75 watt daylight versions in stock and the 100watt version in warm (they are pretty damn bright for a dollar.) The 75 watt daylight ones are my favorite.
It works, and it only costs a dollar. I like it. The electronics detail don't mean anything to most all of us. Thanks for the video.
I find the lifespan of those cheap LED bulbs can vary pretty drastically. I've had some of different brands last quite a while, and some last a month or so before they start flickering or go super dim. When they start flickering, it always makes me think there is something wrong with my fixtures, since I'm so used to flickering being a fixture issue with incandescent bulbs and not with the LED bulb or boards on them. Also, something I've noticed about some cheap LED bulbs, the light can be kind of harsh on my eyes, even if its covered in a lamp shade and I'm just catching the light in my peripheral vision, yet incandescent light doesn't really seem to bother me like a LED light can.
I bought a bunch of these bulbs, about 15 for all my lights that don't need special bulbs or dimmers, about 2 years ago, I have yet to replace any of them. Great value IMO. Besides they're a buck, I'm not expecting top of the line technology, just a cheap light bulb that lights a room and doesn't have to be replaced often.
We bought a couple dozen of these. Two of them dimmed on their own after less than 15 minutes use, but the others are lighting a basement like it's a baseball park. We dug up and put in 2-gallon containers some of our vegetable garden to take with us when we move, and these lights plus one of those reddish colored grow lights on each plant are keeping sweet and hot peppers, cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes still alive and even producing fruit as long as we self-pollinate them.
Thanks. This same chip is used in Dollar Store LED night lights, they are very bright for nightlights, rated 0.4W, and plug directly into a 120V outlet. I popped off the top cover and found a bridge rectifier, fuse resistor, a resistor that probably controls the current, and the eg1000a constant current driver.
This device has only 4 LEDs in series and no caps at all, and a regular PCB instead of aluminum. Since I'm wanting to reduce the flicker, I'll probably add a 10nF cap across the DC side of the rectifier, and populate the 10nf pad where c2 is on that application example, "plays the role of anti-surge buffer, avoiding the instantaneous breakdown of IC and improving product reliability" .. at least according to Google translate. These are great for lighting a hallway that just needs a little light all the time.
4 tenths of a watt 24/7/365 at 6.75 cents per KWH will cost about 24 cents a year LOL.
That second pad is probably for a dual mode output. So you can have multiple strings of LEDs, and the chip detects power on/off cycles over a quick time. So you switch it on/off a few times to change modes. Can have warm/cool/mixed modes at 20mA per string, or a single 40mA mode depending how you set it up.
This is an excellent review because it covers usability and function for the user as well as technical details for those knowledgeable. And it was all done without making it a long, distracting video.
It was a recommended light bulb video after watching one of Big Clive's that brought me to your channel years ago. Nice to see a throwback to the old days..
I've bought a few dimmable 75w bulb in the past here in Itlay for something like 1.5-2€. They were light, built as cheap as possible and lasted about a month or so. Never bought one that cheap since. Now I'm using 60-75w bulbs that cost about 3.5.-5€ each and they work fine for about a year or two (the heat destroys the leds)
As someone who only subscribed after you got "really into this retro stuff," I really enjoyed this video!
You should take a look at his past video's, really great stuff!
I only subscribed after Big Clive mentioned Adrian's Channel-Ditto AvE's channel (I'm newish to you tube)
Thanks for the review. This 75W/12W warm white bulb has 12 LED SMD chips. Each chip has 4 LED blue die for a total of 48 LED in series, at about 2.8V per LED die = about 134 VDC. The blue LED die are surrounded by phosphor emitting white light producing warm white. The bridge rectifier is probably a MB10F 1000V rated. The 8-pin chip is constant current chip with thermal protect probably RM9003B, the resistor configures the current. I tore down the 60W/9W daylight bulb. It has 8 SMD chips with 6 die per chip, and a 10 uf 200 V capacitor.
Now I KNOW Google is tracking my purchases. I just got home from the Dollar Tree where I bought x12 of the 100 watt equivalent (1500 lumen). Clicked on my iPhone and your video popped up as a suggestion. I'll check it out because I'm like you and want to see how it's made so cheaply.
@@adriansdigitalbasement I'm in Independence, Missouri. The 100 watt bulbs are the same brand as the one you tore down. Knowing how rare they are I need to make a run and buy another dozen to replace all of my old 60's that were used to replace the incandescents.
Funny these bulbs list the life span that they do. Heck, at the rate by which they improve I replace them long before they burn out. The old one's aren't thrown away, rather given to people who are not able afford pay their electric bill little lone buy an energy saving bulb that could reduce their electric bill in the first place.
Those were good for making low voltage light strips, back when their LEDs were 8V & could be rewired in series for a used laptop power supply. Now, the LED voltage is 11V, so they would require running in parallel or spending a lot more than the cost of the bulbs on a new power supply.
I like how you are one of the very few people that acctually use a vcr for your intro and not some crappy filter that looks nothing like vhs. But if you do use a filter it looks prettymuch identical to vhs.
I bought a bunch of 60 watt equivalent Dollar Tree LED bulbs in two packs a few years ago for my basement and other places. They still work well. I had one die that was in a lamp but I think it was the fault of the lamp. The also had some smaller 60 watt ones that were $1 each that were rated for use in enclosed fixtures. I bought six of those for my two kitchen fixtures. Those are still working also.
I'm a little over a year on about 5 of these in my house so far, all running good
capacitor dropper converter must run in specifications frequency(dimmable with varying voltage), but switch converter can run even powered from dc(dimming ability depend on converter).
I live in Canada and (our own chain of Dollar Stores) Dollarama sells 60 watt LED bulbs for 4-5 bucks and I dont think I've seen 75 watt LED bulbs yet.
Though I'm pretty happy with the 60 watt LED I have as its a little cooler (but not Cool white) and so it really brights up my moderately sized apartment bedroom and actually makes me really happy to have this much light even when the days get short and the darkness takes hold at night and in the winter.
I have purchased several of these LED lamps and are satisfied . Wyr God bless
It is amazing they can make them for so cheap, and still be efficient too.
Manufacturers in China eke out a minuscule profit. And the workers are exploited. Miserable lives for everyday low prices. Can’t say that’s a sustainable arrangement.
@@davidlang1125 they have a never ending supply of poor Chinese.
I have one of the LED 60 watt ones I bought, I wanna say, like 2 years ago? Whenever they first appeared at my local Dollar Tree, in the light above my stove, it's been on ever since I bought it, I leave it on for a night a light of sorts. Wonder how long it'll last.
I said this earlier, but my Dollar Tree had both 75w and 100w LED bulbs I've picked up! Somehow they managed to get that far for a buck!
I still only see the 60 watt ones at my locations, but I'll for sure be keeping an eye open for the 100watt as they would be good for the front porch light, and backyard lights.
@@CommodoreFan64 I'm sure it would, I got them in my bedroom ceiling fan. My room gets pretty dark so this helps.
Thanks for posting and sharing. The old screw in fluorescent bulbs are being phased out or at least I cannot find them as easily in my area that I used to and I have wondered about the comparison of these newer screw in LED's to the old screw in fluorescent bulbs.
I was recently in Toronto Canada and the cheapest bulb I could find at Walmart, Canadian Tire, and Home Depot was well over $2. In fact, most LED lighting products averaged 2-3x as expensive as the same product when bought in the US. I'm sure this has to do with import regulations more so than the currency exchange rate.
They have them in the dollar trees in gta now for 1.50
LEDs are my favorites. Menards (regional hdwr) has been my supplier for 7 years. Early versions 'claimed' 25 yr life, I returned several that often lasted under a year, always-on, BTW. Westinghouse and Sylvania the trusted names were the names on these Chinese products. Seventy-five watt LED bulbs are becoming popular at dollar stores in MN.
In case you still interested, why 2? REXT1 and 2 is different set of pin allow up to 2 set of separate LED's.
They have this bulb, and the Sylvania or may be the sunbeam bulb for $1 often at our DollarTrees. We have a lot of them. They work great. Since they're as cheap as an incandescent, we just grab these instead. I didn't know about the not enclosed thing (who reads the bottom of bulbs?!).. this makes sense, as we always put these in our front of the house lights, which are the typical enclosed glass style. One of them went out the other day. When I replaced it, I noticed the plastic has totally split down the side (the lower portion). I could only imagine due to heat. Otherwise, these things work great. They still get blown out now and then if you have janky wiring, power surges, etc in your house, but for $1, who cares...a normal bulb will do the same. Our kitchen bulbs were constantly getting blown out too, once we switched over to the cheap $1 LED bulbs, they never blew out again, I guess they can take the surges or whatever is going on.
I probably came apart easily because it was smashed on the floor.
Very interesting. I tore down a failed 60W equivalent LED bulb just to see what was in there. It was pretty similar. BTW, I am doing a study on how long these bulbs last . The LEDs, if not overheated, will probably last 8 years or more, but of course the light output level will decrease somewhat with age. But the electronics, especially the electrolytic caps, will most likely be the failure item on most LED bulbs and that will come way before the LEDs fail in most cases. So far I have had only three bulbs fail. The months of life of those three are: 9 months, 27 months and 33 months. WAY less than any manufacturer's claim. I have not done any diagnostics to see what failed in any of these bulbs.
I did a similar study on CFL bulbs used in my household. I had 30 bulbs fail over a period of about 6-1/2 years. The average life length of those bulbs was 35 months with the shortest being 12 and 13 months and the longest being 68 and 69 months. Given the difference in cost of the CFLs vs incandescent (disregarding electricity usage), incandescents are a better buy. When including cost of electricity, I'm pretty sure the CFLs win, but not by nearly the margin we were led to believe. Will the same be true for LEDs?
lowes has GE Basic 60-Watt EQ A19 Soft White LED Light Bulb (16-Pack) for 19.00 that brakes down to 1.18 ea. and so far they are really good lights i haven't tore one apart yet. I think I will do that this weekend, and see whats in it. 😈
I'am Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos
I bought maybe 10 of the 60 watt bulbs, thinking they were a great buy. One thing I found out quick, you can only snug them up when screwing in, or it will separate where the plastic meets the metal. Then I had to replace four of them within the first month after they quit working. These did not say to not use in an enclosed light fixture, but maybe they burnt out because they over heated as you mentioned the 75 watt version might.
One important fact that is often missed in a teardown like this is how that one 125C electrolytic capacitor is the one component that will limit the bulb's life, NOT the LEDs. The problem is that even though the capacitor is rated for 1,000 hour of life at 125C (that's a mere 6 weeks, folks), its useful life increases as its exposed temperature decreases. The derating is a doubling of life for every 10C temp decrease below 125C. In this case, if the temp is limited by the little current regulator down to 85C, which is four 10 degrees C increments, meaning that the capacitor's useful life is stretched out to 4 x 1,000 = 4,000 hours. If you have the light on for 4 hours per day, then this capacitor is going to fail (on average) after 4000/4 = 1000 days. That's a bit less than 3 years. LED lamps are usually advertised as "lasting for 50,000 or 100,000 hours," as in "infinite life." What is missed is that the onboard filter capacitor will fail much sooner than that!
Wow, I haven't seen a PET in a long time.... Long live the Motorola 6502. I miss zero-page 6502 assembly language programming. I live in Portland also, glad I found you!!
6502 was made by MOS Technology - not Motorola
@@ryanobarr4603, You are correct, and I wish you could have corrected me back in 1980 when my technical faux-pas had to have began, the most, most coolest thing is you are the first to have caught my error ever and I am grateful. I really do like your work, bench skills, and tools. I'm a digital-hoarder of sorts, I like to collect tech-ref manuals, hard to find old software, and more. I was an id10t, I worked a lot and never had the time to organize the video/audio/software/coding/documents...etc... I was downloading. My answer was "Buy more hard drives". Then it became Debian smb FileServers, and port-forwarded Apache webservers, then came Streaming of data. If you have a request for anything hard to find I will help out! The other day a friend wanted the old DOS "Jive" filter... You pipe a txt file through it and it comes out altered. Happy Thanksgiving! P.S. I used to use SoftIce, then WinIce, now I use IdaPro... as a side note
It’s a pretty cool design. In the U.K. they are £1 in Poundland, as the name of the retailer suggests. Nice video. Thank you.
Those through-connects are pretty darn clever. Allows you to make aluminium-backed boards with THT components on the back.
I just bought a big pack of LED bulbs from Costco. All of the bulbs seem to occasionally flicker with the voltage fluctuations of the mains.
Dollar tree in Illinois has a 2 pack of 100w equivalent 1600 lumen dimmable bulbs for $1
Probably halogen...
I don't know about that the best 100 Watt equivalent light bulb I've ever seen at Dollar tree was a CFL bulb for $1 but that still doesn't beat the 75 Watt equivalent LED bulb since it's more energy efficient and more long lasting it's also the best LED bulb I've ever seen at Dollar tree.
The switching frequency of the driver chip is what causes flickering in other LED bulbs
And the timing of that as relative to when the use turns on the triac in the lamp.
c/use/user
No it's a fixed frequency. All led mosfet driver's have a switching frequency, it can be found in the data sheet
@@ColbyJohnson I am talking about the new circuit now formed when the triac is added. Oh, I see you said "other bulbs"... I meant when he hooked it in with the lamp. It's now being cut on and off by that triac as well.
@@johnpossum556 yep I'm following you know. I was like hmm, what's this guy talking about haha.
Right, we aren't sure what's in the lamp. It could be a switching triac (with its own frequency) or a power potentiometer (old school). The potentiometer type won't dim the LEDs at all since the led driver is current control not voltage control (either be on or off).
The triac switching type will cause flickering or random on/off cycles.
From Australia. Can't get one for under about 6 dollars US.
Try Bunnings, as Bunnings NZ have LED similar to these for $2 each including dimmer capable.
About a year ago we could get 2 Packs of 100W Equivalent (14W) Dimmable Sunbeam bulbs for $1, but they were cheap because they were subsidized by Indiana Michigan Power/AEP. I tore one down because it fell apart because I had ran it in an enclosed fixture and I think the heat embrittled the plastic standoffs that hold the power supply into the aluminum base of the bulb, so when I went to unscrew it from the fixture the power supply stuck in the socket and the whole top part of the bulb pulled from it, other than that it seemed pretty well constructed, the aluminum part of the bulb was pretty heavy and the power supply was potted in epoxy so it was pretty well protected against moisture.
I turn down the power by dimming. Also I put high reading capacitors inside them. Mine still are going strong 8 years
Can you show me where to buy capacitors for it?
I've bought about a dozen of the 60 watt equivalent Sunbeam bulbs over the last year. At this time, about one-third of them have failed. They are all in open fixtures so the bulbs should not be dying due to excess heating. One of the failures was the current regulating chip and the others have been LED burn outs. I jumpered one of the burned out LEDs and the bulb worked for a month or two before another LED failed.
Some of the failures happened within a month so I think there are problems either in the LED manufacturing or in the thermal path when they are mounted on the aluminum board. Since the defective bulbs have to be shipped to California, Dollar Tree probably isn't having to do many warranty replacements on the $1 bulbs.
If the failure rate remains under 50%, the bulbs are still a good buy with the advantage that they do not generate radio frequency noise that would interfere with my radio listening hobby.
One dollar? That is crazy. I remember paying a lot more than that not too long ago.
Yeah same, and I can even remember when I got a 5watt LED bulb for $6 where you can see the individual LED's inside the clear glass bulb, and it's barely brighter then a night light, and I stoked to get it. I still use it as a night light for my youngest niece in my guest room.
Yeah, there's pretty much no reason to buy anything *but* LED's for anything but niche applications, like high-heat or high-moisture installations. With units that fit every conceivable size, and even bare-'filament' types, there's just not any need for incandescent any more. (And why anybody would buy CFL's today is beyond me.)
The only thing that bugs me is it's getting harder to find fixtures with just plain old sockets; fixtures with integrated LED's mean you have to junk the whole thing when it burns out, which doesn't necessarily take very long if it's poorly-made.
I got one of these for a cheapo desklamp and it has been working well enough
Poundland's LED bulbs I own are pretty good, they briefly had some 510lm 3500k 6 Watt bulbs which I bought a bunch of, and they're all working great to this day, their other 470lm 5.5w ones are less nice to look at though, and sadly are the ones still sold today, so can't always have everything I guess... :)
There are UL/CSA ratings. Usually the same testing place can provide both.
Wow 0,90€ that is really cheap :) Thanks for the Video i have almost replace all the old Lamps against LED Lamps.
I actually buy these all the time, I prefer the daylight ones over the soft white because you get a more pure white than a green.
Might be time to readdress this topic. Dollar Tree seems to have a new provider (Yamao) with a different circuit. The 9W/60w equiv now uses a four terminal smd (SOT-223?) marked "9003b J0071" that does not show up on Google. The current sense resistor to it is a 7R50 (7.5 ohms). I've not torn a 12w/75w equiv apart yet.
Good review! I hope to see more of bulb reviews coming up? Dollar store have lots more different wattage's and styles led bulbs.
I've purchased 60W equivalent Sunbeam LED bulbs from Dollar Tree. They all went bad after a few months of use. They would start to flash or flicker. Walmart has some that are about $2 each they seem to hold up much better. No problems yet.
A little while back I was enjoying one of your pet videos when the thought occurred to me, I could have sworn I originally saw you tearing down LED light bulbs before rediscovering your channel later when you were repairing computers.
I figured I was misremembering, but nope! 😀
@@adriansdigitalbasement "Today, I'll be working with Junkyard Digs, Thunderhead298 and Dylan McCool to try and get this abandoned Ford pickup truck running...!" (cue ADB credits intermixed with JYD credits)
I've bought a ton of 100w led bulbs at dollar tree. Haven't had a bit of issues
I have the same brand as the one in the video, my bulb do not turn off right away, they slowly dim out giving off a bluish color. I think they have about six months of use.
@@theotherwalt Most LED bulbs I have ever used do that. Nature of the LED
@@WayneWatson1 The better quality or name brand bulbs I have do not do this, the less expensive off brand bulbs do. I noticed my Dollar Tree bulbs doing this a few weeks ago.
Somewhere I read an article on why that happens, perhaps @BigClivedotcom mentioned why in one of his tear downs.
@@theotherwalt Maybe I'm used to the cheap bulbs then. Dollar tree and local power company bulbs is all I ever got.
= @@theotherwalt = usually the bulb dims to off because it is the capacitor discharging threw the led's.
I have seen Indian LED lightbulb repair videos and such, they have ventilation slits on theirs.
I have taking to drilling a few small holes in mine, one on the bottom or side of the translucid plastic cap, depending of how they will be mounted, and a few on the plastic base, behind the alu disk. I use a stop on the drill bit so that it barely can get inside, and drill twhere from taking one apart I know it's empty space.
Went looking for a couple of these for cheap abusable task lighting and only found a 100W equiv 1500 lumens 14 watt (claimed) model, claims to actually be suitable for enclosed fixtures, same "fs" logo on the bulb body. Board layout is similar but two rows of 12 leds (24 total) and two EG1000A regulator chips, 2019/5/21 date. May be the new and improved replacement model? My killawatt shows 12.6 watts, PF .65, no drop over time running in a fairly open desk lamp. Not sure I believe 120lm/W out of a dollar bulb, but they are pretty damn bright with decent color quality and flicker free. I think I'll go back for a few more.
@ 9:00 When he pops the top off.
I did that to one of my bulbs and it makes a great
spot light for over the stove. Nice and bright and very directional.
yeah, and pretty susceptible to humidity :\
@@redoverdrivetheunstoppable4637
I live in a desert and I have a hood fan.
Avg. Humidity around 25%.
For a dollar it is cheaper than an actual purpose made 'spot' light.
@@charlesdahmital8095 i meant for the stove, whatever you cook makes humidity and that sticking grease that i bet is conductive, i had several bulbs failed bcs of rain humidity, not direct rain, it may catch fire and also if you touch the exposed parts you may get shocked
Generally I've moved over to LED lamps now. However I still keep a few incandescent bulbs - they are great fault current limiters if you cant afford a Variac!
I've been thinking of making a load bank with incandescents.
The apartment where my mom lives is old and the incandescent light bulbs would blow out really fast sometimes in a few hours . I got some of these lights at the dollar tree and they have been going strong for over a year now.
You don't need a step up transformer, just use your dryer, or oven plug. Just get an appliance cable from the hardware store (or a junk dryer or oven) and wire it to whatever outlet is convienient in a handy box - presto 240V!
3000K is fine, but what's the CRI and if it's so efficient, why does it get so hot.
I use the 100 and 75-watt versions of these and they do not get to hot for me to handle. They really do not get very warm. Of course, I don't take them apart. LOL> Yes there is now a 100 watt 1500 lumen version of these for $1 at dollar tree as well! They are awesome!
In Austria (not Australia ;-)) the led filament bulbs are more or less the standard now. There are packs of 3 sold under supermarket brands for 6 Euros. But below 1 Euro for a LED bulb is insanely cheap.
I have bought several $1 LED bulbs in the last few years from 99cent store and Dollar Tree. If you want great light and color then avoid soft white. I get the regular or white light variety. I believe 6500k
Dimmers basically PWM the AC power so anything like this with a built-in power supply will either just stay on when the caps can smooth out the power, or start flickering when they can't.
Now they have 100w and 150w equivalent LED for $1 in the floodlights. They are super bright.
From Australia. Bunnings which is sort of like Costco has LED light bulbs the cheapest from $19 ,it's a smart globe think it's a 60w equiv. Supermarket has LED globes for $4.50 ea in a 2 pack, but again 60w equiv.
I bought their 100W equivalent bulbs a while back. They're quite good.
@@adriansdigitalbasement Could be, if they don't get in as many of those as they do the 75W bulbs.
I see they have them on their website! www.dollartree.com/soft-white-100-watt-equivalent-medium-base-led-lightbulbs/297620
Spotted at the Dollar Tree here in Canada for $1.25 CAD. Hopefully they continue to sell the 8w "60w" version. It seems to run much cooler. It's a little annoying that the aluminum heatsink is covered with a plastic sleeve, but I realize it has to be for electrical insulation. These capacitive droppers don't have any electrical isolation, so any exposed component can be live in reference to ground.
@@adriansdigitalbasement In Canada, Dollar Tree bills itself as "Everything $1.25 or less". Dollarama, the behemoth national chain is up to $4.
In Hungary 12W LED bulbs cost about 3 times more.
The government might start subsidizing them. One or two won't make a difference to the amount of electricity a country is using but hundreds of millions will make a considerable impact.
This bulb is almost exactly the same inside as the 60W variant. The only difference is the 60W variant has a 10 ohm resistor instead of an 8.2 ohm. The light could be dimmed by inserting a 100 ohm potentiometer in series with that resistor. I would really like to know what the unused pin on that chip does.
I Cut The Plastic Bulbs off 8 of These Type Bulbs...But, Higher Lumen Bulbs And 4 CFL Bulbs 100W......And was Able To Grow Plants And Got Them To "Flower" Beautifully !!!...I Did build A Light Rack to hold ALL The Bulbs...Just 4 boards...Made into a "Square" with 12 Holes Drilled for the Light fixtures....3 per side....and Strung up with Light Chains...To Raise it as The Plants Grow....About 8 weeks..from start to Flower......Great and Cheap winter Project...For Amatuer Indoor Plant Growers???
Rectified and capped 120VAC should become 160 VDC after rect and being tanked across the 'lytic cap. You said the string of LEDs in series was about 138 VDC, so I'm guessing that 8 pin is a constant current voltage drop set by its adjacent resistors to get rid of the 22 V difference and protect the LEDs from overvoltage.
The price of this may be subsidized by the local power companies. In our area many stores sell 4 packs for less than 2 dollars for 60 watt bulbs.
i worked as a mechanic and lightbulbs were a major issue on your work spotlight bcs of the glass breaking, it was the most fragile thing around your head when the car was lifted
awesome video man youre so informative
i cut the tops off so it is brighter and beams more
I do that with the Walmart brand 100 Watt equivalent LED bulbs without the plastic outer shell the bulb is about as bright as a 150 Watt equivalent light bulb.
I live in India. The 12w LED Bulb costs around rs 200 (around $2). But we also have 20w led tube lights which are much cheaper.
Is that an old Seagate ST225 full height hard drive on the shelf? Thanks for sharing on the LED info!
Just happened upon this-really nice and enjoyable 'nerd tech' vid. Watched it 'cause U use those $Tree bulbs. Thanks for the info.
Typo- ' I use, not U use.
Big Clive viewers upset at no magic smoke or flames.....
We had a lot of magic smoke back in the 60s. 😈
The 75 watt equivalent led bulb I bought at the Dollar tree (same this video reviews), just doesn't seem as bright as when I first got it about a month ago. Still brighter than a 60 watt equivalent led bulb though. Like the sunbeam 60 watt equivalent ones, but the dollartree brand ones (like this 75 watt one reviewed) didn't last long for me. Would sit there and flash when turned on, for awhile it would stop flashing and actually work, but then either just flashed or not work at all. Now a the local store has are, 40, 60, and 100 watt equivalent led bulbs. Guessing something got too hot in the 60 as it was in a table lamp that gets used for many hours at a time, where I have the 75 now. No dimmers in my small apartment, just lights that are either on or off. Tempted to get a 100 to see if that does the same as the 75, just normally dimmer after it's been used a few weeks.
$1 and it has a built-in party strobe mode if you use a dimmer which is says not to.
We have gas station down the road and each night. When it turns on, 5 of them just flashing.
Love a good blub teardown
They also sell a 100w equivalent, 1500 lumen version at Dollartree in Canada.
My local Dollar Tree has the 100W now. 14W actual, 1500 lumens.
Dollar Tree had 100W Sunbeam brand LED bulbs a couple years ago too, but they were rare. The crazy thing is that they were sold in pairs and still only cost a dollar. I'll have to check mine to see if they're back again.
@@leaftye The ones in stock are generic and not Sunbeam. $1 each.
@@joop1987 Thanks, that works for me. I'll swing by the DT soon.
When
When LEDs switched from non dimmable to dimmable, the consumption went up, not much better than CFLs.
You should do a breakdown and analysis on candles.
I wish you could show us how to disassemble some components from this and make something else from them.That would be for us old timer electronic enthusiasts.
If it was bright white, it would be better. 3,000 is not as bad as 2,700 but it still is yellow. The 5,000K is coming down, but still over $1. The good news is the PAR 38 5,000K bulbs are own to $9, as opposed to $25 3 years ago.
There is now a 100 watt equiv. 1500 lumen version of these at dollar tree for $1 they are great. They do not get very hot in my use. That might be different in an tight enclosure, I wouldn't know.
My local dollar store has 100w equivalent 14.5w 1600lumen sunbeam brand for $1. Its more light output than the one you show here, for the same price.
Did it have one or two bulbs? A couple years ago they were selling a two pack of 100W Sunbeam LED bulbs for a dollar.
leaftye the ones I saw were a 1 pack of the 14.5 w led for $1. They also had the 800 lumen ones in a 2 pack for $1.
and to be honest, these are technically more expensive than home depot or anywhere else. We can buy 24 packs of sylvania led bulbs at home depot for $22.78!
I'm a Western Union agent and I can confirm all those exchange rates at the beginning 😁