I had the ender 3 and several other brands in the print shop. This fall I reaplaced all 7 printers with new Bamboo A1s. The more you use it the more you will like it. They just work unlike ever other print I have had that required constant tinkering. You make a great choice getting the Bamboo
Congratulations 🎉. Glad we didn't have to wait for spring. I just picked up an A1 Combo myself the beginning of November. What a pleasure to work with. If only you had the .2mm nozzle and the ASM unit for the Mountain Park model. It's amazing where 3D printing tech has gotten to since my first Ender 3.
I just finished watching all your layout videos. I wish I discovered you earlier. I could have saved you a lot of time and money. I can see some problems you are going to have in the future. I have built six of my own layouts (five indoors and one outdoors) and helped many others. My advice comes free. I like to pay forward all the help I have received. Let me know if you want some help.
That's very kind of you. I take on projects like this for fun, to learn as I go. So I don't consider it time wasted. To me it's like solving a giant puzzle. What are some problems you see down the road?
@@jayducharme model railroad track is a poor electrical conductor and gets worse as the joints oxidize or rust. You will get a voltage drop that gets worse the further you are from the lock on. Most modelers remedy this by adding a bus wire the whole length and drops at certain lengths. Your layout is far too long to rely on track conductivity alone. Do a google search for model railroad bus and feeders.
I tried springs and weights on my reversing loop switches and eventually went with nothing. I just let the train wheels push the switch track back and forth on my indoor and outdoor layout. I oil the switchy parts once in a while. You can see the reversing loops in my videos.
@@jayducharme The weight does not matter. Even small pilot wheels push them over. You have to remove any springs or arms or levers connected to the rail parts. works 100% reliably.
One more suggestion that will make it work better with lighter cars. Replace the return springs with a single pully - string and lead weight system. This way the pull of the return action is constant, does not get harder to overcome as the arm swings open. Also, it will be easy to adjust the weight to just the amount needed to return the track switch to the normal position. Having an elevated track like you do will make this type of mechanical return easy to do.
Nice job. Are the gates the right height that they won't close over the top of an empty flat car? It would be nice if the small loop at the building end of the tracks were a little larger to accommodate a longer train and not have such a sharp turn.
I agree the turn is a bit tight, and my plan for the spring is to expand that loop into a long oval. I have leftover track and plenty of bed hardware, so it should be a relatively simple task. And yes, the gate is low enough to accommodate a flatbed car. That's what my camera was riding on.
So, what happens with rolling stock? LOL. It's a start. Heck, never thought of running O gauge outside. Love seeing mechanical solutions. Also, another vote of how wonderful Bambu printers are. A1 newbie, and I have zero experience with printing. Already, cranked out some cool stuff in first week of owning it. Can't wait to get into resin printing and more 3d printing. Train shows are coming! Need to make some affordable assets to sell and at least try to break even for the investments. I think you could market this if you can perfect it. :)
Thanks. I suspect there won't be a problem. Once the engine pushes the gate open, it doesn't take much force to keep it there. So I think the cars will trail along fine. But we'll have to wait to see.
I had the ender 3 and several other brands in the print shop. This fall I reaplaced all 7 printers with new Bamboo A1s. The more you use it the more you will like it. They just work unlike ever other print I have had that required constant tinkering. You make a great choice getting the Bamboo
Congratulations 🎉. Glad we didn't have to wait for spring. I just picked up an A1 Combo myself the beginning of November. What a pleasure to work with. If only you had the .2mm nozzle and the ASM unit for the Mountain Park model. It's amazing where 3D printing tech has gotten to since my first Ender 3.
Agreed. Those first MP models printed on my Tevo look pretty shabby in comparison to what I could do now.
I just finished watching all your layout videos. I wish I discovered you earlier. I could have saved you a lot of time and money. I can see some problems you are going to have in the future. I have built six of my own layouts (five indoors and one outdoors) and helped many others. My advice comes free. I like to pay forward all the help I have received. Let me know if you want some help.
That's very kind of you. I take on projects like this for fun, to learn as I go. So I don't consider it time wasted. To me it's like solving a giant puzzle. What are some problems you see down the road?
@@jayducharme model railroad track is a poor electrical conductor and gets worse as the joints oxidize or rust. You will get a voltage drop that gets worse the further you are from the lock on. Most modelers remedy this by adding a bus wire the whole length and drops at certain lengths. Your layout is far too long to rely on track conductivity alone. Do a google search for model railroad bus and feeders.
I tried springs and weights on my reversing loop switches and eventually went with nothing. I just let the train wheels push the switch track back and forth on my indoor and outdoor layout. I oil the switchy parts once in a while. You can see the reversing loops in my videos.
@@DeadrailTrains Does your dead rail setup make that possible, since your engines would be heavier?
@@jayducharme The weight does not matter. Even small pilot wheels push them over. You have to remove any springs or arms or levers connected to the rail parts. works 100% reliably.
@@DeadrailTrains I'll have to give it a shot.
One more suggestion that will make it work better with lighter cars. Replace the return springs with a single pully - string and lead weight system. This way the pull of the return action is constant, does not get harder to overcome as the arm swings open. Also, it will be easy to adjust the weight to just the amount needed to return the track switch to the normal position. Having an elevated track like you do will make this type of mechanical return easy to do.
Great idea! Thanks.
Nice job. Are the gates the right height that they won't close over the top of an empty flat car? It would be nice if the small loop at the building end of the tracks were a little larger to accommodate a longer train and not have such a sharp turn.
I agree the turn is a bit tight, and my plan for the spring is to expand that loop into a long oval. I have leftover track and plenty of bed hardware, so it should be a relatively simple task. And yes, the gate is low enough to accommodate a flatbed car. That's what my camera was riding on.
So, what happens with rolling stock? LOL. It's a start. Heck, never thought of running O gauge outside. Love seeing mechanical solutions. Also, another vote of how wonderful Bambu printers are. A1 newbie, and I have zero experience with printing. Already, cranked out some cool stuff in first week of owning it. Can't wait to get into resin printing and more 3d printing. Train shows are coming! Need to make some affordable assets to sell and at least try to break even for the investments. I think you could market this if you can perfect it. :)
Congratulations on finally getting the gates open, I am curious how coaches handle the gates being pulled.
Thanks. I suspect there won't be a problem. Once the engine pushes the gate open, it doesn't take much force to keep it there. So I think the cars will trail along fine. But we'll have to wait to see.
Now if it will work with empty cars.
We'll find out when the weather is a bit more tolerable.