I tried the replace-C3 trick on a whim (50p from my local Maplin's) - I now have a working Netgear JGS516 gigabit switch. Thanks so much for the steer.
Thank you. I have a Dell PowerConnect 2716 which uses the DELTRA ADP-40VP as well. The culprit was C3, the 47uF 25V capacitor - your mention of it at 13:04 was the key to my repair: replacing it - had a 47uF 50V on hand which worked great.
worked on my powerconnect 2724 also! I used a 47uf rated at 50v since it was closer in physical size than the 35v 47uf cap I found in my cap stash. This saved me hours of head scratching and circuit analysis (not my strongest skill...thanks ADD). 11 years on and this video STILL helped me out. You get a smash on my like button sir
I'd replace the caps that show obvious 'wear-n-tear' first, but that's just me. ;) Nice video with GREAT USEFUL health and safety warnings for those that don't understand what large capacitors can do. Cheers.
The Artesyn seems to have all the heat-sensitive stuff around the outer edges rather than cooking away in the middle. We bought nine of these switches back in 2006, four of them have developed PSU faults and been brought back to life.
Very nice tutorial! However, please note that on the newer models with a block of LEDs on the left (one set for each port), the LEDs are actually on a separate PCB which is mounted to the front panel, so you will need to remove all of the screws to be able to disconnect the LEDs from the main PCB.
Ahh terminal switch modes, a common thing thease days, most equipment seems to have them, the capacitors have to be high grade switchmode types to cope with the battering. Manufacturers allways put capacitors close to hot heatsinks, im sure they do it on purpose to limit the life of the psu. Smashing job mate, well worth the psu swapping :-)
I love the power supplies in those, I salvaged three of them from similar netgear switches, I'm sure they will come in handy, who doesn't like a nice 5 and 12v power supply?
You can use the 5V ones to build a huge 6 port USB-Charger bank. ;) Just be shure that you should short the D+ and D- of each USB-Port, so that the appliance will accept the high current and are drawing up to 2 amps (in case of a tablet) or one amp (in case of a smartphone or single-cell-tablet).
I noticed that the main HV cap is right out on the edge of the Artesyn board where it's cooler, instead of cooking in the middle. Seems to be a design where lessons have been learned.
This one did. My MacBook one didn't and bit me two days later. Maybe they pay more attention to it in the open-frame design because it's more likely to get handled by technicians. I had a kick off a laptop supply a few years ago when I decided to make the board "safe" by shorting the solder side out on the metal arm of a chair. Guess what I was sitting on at the time :)
I watched this vid because I came into work this morning and the network switch was dead and the network with it. Having lashed together a temporary replacement, I looked over the switch and thought I wonder if the problem is anything fixable. Most of the interior looked fine (there was a bit of fluff - surprisingly little for about 7 years of use) apart from the PSU which is distinctly brown around the larger heatsinked IC. Now we will get in a new switch since we need confidence in it but I think I might try a repair.
if you look at the blog post he put in the description, the original Delta PSU looks pretty anemic, while the replacement Artesyn is much chunkier. it's probably a case of under-engineering, rather than bad parts.
On the first two I metered the output from the PSU, nothing. On these (which were bought at the same time for the same project, a high school) I guessed the problem and solution would still be the same. Incidentally the same school has gone from Netgear 10/100 with gigabit backbone to Cisco gigabit with a 10-gigabit backbone, I installed that lot too :)
Speaking of eBay, someone's doing Dell PowerConnect PSU repairs on there. Cost of repair: £40 (plus postage to send your supply to be fixed) Cost of brand new replacement PSU: just under £40 from RS :)
I often find it's a lot quicker, easier & cheaper to replace the caps on basic psus like these. Plasma tv power supplys can be a bit awkward at times though lol
How did you make sure it's the PSU and not the DC/DC converter board for example. Would have been quite annoying if you bought the replacements for nothing. I know, it's almost always the switch mode PSU when something stops working. I lost count of how many (consumer) electronics I brought back to life by exchanging caps. I listened to the video with powered speakers, am writing this on two LCDs and will transmit it over a netgear switch (wall wart powersupply), all of which were PSU "dead".
Cost of replacement power supply: £40 Cost of replacement switch: £35 from ebay. Or at least, that's the price I got a JGS724 24-port all gigabit managed switch for. :) Had a bloody noisy fan though. So that had to be modified.
You can probably replace some or all of the caps on the old supply in a pinch. It's the usual suspect. Particularly with a symptom like 'works sometimes'. Not worth it with an easy replacement, but still...
Fine if it's your own switch. If doing it for work though, the H&S brigade will probably refuse to let you meddle with it, they'd rather the electricians have a go (who won't want to touch it). At least swapping out a module is straightforward.
On my GS748T, after a power cycle, ports 1-24 have died. Ports 25-48 have lights on but don't appear to be routing traffic. Is this a PSU issue (one of the rails has failed) or are there power voltage regulators on the main board?
It's only a single supply rail from the PSU so it sounds like you've got a fault elsewhere. If you've got access to another GS748T you could try a bit of trial-by-substitution, but remember if you've got a fairly new switch it'll have a ridiculously long warranty, I think it's around the 27 year mark. Older ones will be I think a 5 year warranty. As long as you can dig up the receipt you can register the switch at any time to activate the warranty. www.netgear.co.uk/about/warranty/
AintBigAintClever It's a version 1 switch. I've taken the cover off and some of the Teapo caps on the main board have bulges on the top. I'll get those swapped out.
@@AintBigAintClever I was thinking about that. Do you think if the three red cables are all the same voltage? The 30JP has only two of each colour, but only states one output voltage.
@@MrGeekGamer yep. If you test for continuity you should find all reds are together and all blacks are together. They're just bundled for increased current handling.
@@MrGeekGamer none of these fit the bill? uk.farnell.com/w/c/power-line-protection/power-supplies/ac-dc-converters/ac-dc-open-frame-power-supplies?no-of-outputs=1-output&power-rating-covection-cooling-=30w&output-voltage-output-1=5v
According to the data sheet that's a 90 watt power supply. 12V, 7.5A. These ones would do the trick as they have the same footprint and mounting hole spacing but you'd need to modify or swap the output connector: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/MDS-100APS12-BA www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/pjt-12v100wbaa Datasheet for your existing PSU (covers all LTE90S-Sx models): datasheet.octopart.com/LTE90S-S1-Autec-Power-Systems-datasheet-11739340.pdf Datasheet for suggested replacements: www.mouser.com/ds/2/632/Datasheet_mds-100aps12-b-774654.pdf www.mouser.com/ds/2/632/Datasheet_pjt-12v100wbaa-773499.pdf As you can see, the existing PSU outputs 0V on 1-3 and +12V on 4-6. The replacement outputs 0V on 1-4 and +12V on 4-6, plus pin 1 appears to be at the opposite end of the connector (same relative position between old and new, with 12V top-right and 0V bottom-right but the connector has the back facing out instead of in). You may need to swap the connector or at least turn it around and bend the outer pins to prevent mis-mating.
I tried the replace-C3 trick on a whim (50p from my local Maplin's) - I now have a working Netgear JGS516 gigabit switch. Thanks so much for the steer.
Thank you. I have a Dell PowerConnect 2716 which uses the DELTRA ADP-40VP as well. The culprit was C3, the 47uF 25V capacitor - your mention of it at 13:04 was the key to my repair: replacing it - had a 47uF 50V on hand which worked great.
Excellent. Free fixes are the best fixes :D
worked on my powerconnect 2724 also! I used a 47uf rated at 50v since it was closer in physical size than the 35v 47uf cap I found in my cap stash. This saved me hours of head scratching and circuit analysis (not my strongest skill...thanks ADD). 11 years on and this video STILL helped me out. You get a smash on my like button sir
It's good that there are electronics stores You can buy everything You need. Where i come from, almost nothing particular can be found.
I'd replace the caps that show obvious 'wear-n-tear' first, but that's just me. ;)
Nice video with GREAT USEFUL health and safety warnings for those that don't understand what large capacitors can do. Cheers.
The Artesyn seems to have all the heat-sensitive stuff around the outer edges rather than cooking away in the middle. We bought nine of these switches back in 2006, four of them have developed PSU faults and been brought back to life.
Ahh! I love the smell of burnt caps in the morning
Very nice tutorial!
However, please note that on the newer models with a block of LEDs on the left (one set for each port), the LEDs are actually on a separate PCB which is mounted to the front panel, so you will need to remove all of the screws to be able to disconnect the LEDs from the main PCB.
Ahh terminal switch modes, a common thing thease days, most equipment seems to have them, the capacitors have to be high grade switchmode types to cope with the battering.
Manufacturers allways put capacitors close to hot heatsinks, im sure they do it on purpose to limit the life of the psu.
Smashing job mate, well worth the psu swapping :-)
I love the power supplies in those, I salvaged three of them from similar netgear switches, I'm sure they will come in handy, who doesn't like a nice 5 and 12v power supply?
You can use the 5V ones to build a huge 6 port USB-Charger bank. ;)
Just be shure that you should short the D+ and D- of each USB-Port, so that the appliance will accept the high current and are drawing up to 2 amps (in case of a tablet) or one amp (in case of a smartphone or single-cell-tablet).
Interesting to see the input cap fail. of all the ones I've repaired it's been the final output filter. thanx for the vid :)
I noticed that the main HV cap is right out on the edge of the Artesyn board where it's cooler, instead of cooking in the middle. Seems to be a design where lessons have been learned.
This one did. My MacBook one didn't and bit me two days later. Maybe they pay more attention to it in the open-frame design because it's more likely to get handled by technicians. I had a kick off a laptop supply a few years ago when I decided to make the board "safe" by shorting the solder side out on the metal arm of a chair. Guess what I was sitting on at the time :)
I watched this vid because I came into work this morning and the network switch was dead and the network with it. Having lashed together a temporary replacement, I looked over the switch and thought I wonder if the problem is anything fixable. Most of the interior looked fine (there was a bit of fluff - surprisingly little for about 7 years of use) apart from the PSU which is distinctly brown around the larger heatsinked IC. Now we will get in a new switch since we need confidence in it but I think I might try a repair.
if you look at the blog post he put in the description, the original Delta PSU looks pretty anemic, while the replacement Artesyn is much chunkier. it's probably a case of under-engineering, rather than bad parts.
good advice on the PSU, they are very unpredictable!!
On the first two I metered the output from the PSU, nothing. On these (which were bought at the same time for the same project, a high school) I guessed the problem and solution would still be the same.
Incidentally the same school has gone from Netgear 10/100 with gigabit backbone to Cisco gigabit with a 10-gigabit backbone, I installed that lot too :)
Unlike camera flashes, power supplies typically have a resistor to drain the cap when it's powered off.
@ollee48
The big one next to the cap (what looks like R9) is 0.33 ohm 2W (I couldn't message you privately because you have contact lock enabled).
Speaking of eBay, someone's doing Dell PowerConnect PSU repairs on there.
Cost of repair: £40 (plus postage to send your supply to be fixed)
Cost of brand new replacement PSU: just under £40 from RS :)
I often find it's a lot quicker, easier & cheaper to replace the caps on basic psus like these. Plasma tv power supplys can be a bit awkward at times though lol
I really like your videos there quite informative, thanks for shearing them
Power supplies have dropped in price now. RS are doing the Artesyn NLP40-7605J for £27.98 inc. VAT.
How did you make sure it's the PSU and not the DC/DC converter board for example. Would have been quite annoying if you bought the replacements for nothing.
I know, it's almost always the switch mode PSU when something stops working. I lost count of how many (consumer) electronics I brought back to life by exchanging caps. I listened to the video with powered speakers, am writing this on two LCDs and will transmit it over a netgear switch (wall wart powersupply), all of which were PSU "dead".
I don't even think you would get a big shock? I've certainly felt a tingle from them :) now a fully charged camera flash cap! don't go licking them ;)
Cost of replacement power supply: £40
Cost of replacement switch: £35 from ebay. Or at least, that's the price I got a JGS724 24-port all gigabit managed switch for. :)
Had a bloody noisy fan though. So that had to be modified.
You can probably replace some or all of the caps on the old supply in a pinch. It's the usual suspect. Particularly with a symptom like 'works sometimes'. Not worth it with an easy replacement, but still...
Fine if it's your own switch. If doing it for work though, the H&S brigade will probably refuse to let you meddle with it, they'd rather the electricians have a go (who won't want to touch it). At least swapping out a module is straightforward.
I noticed the bottom of the lid got hot over the power supply section! lol 10:10
just what i needed! thx!
On my GS748T, after a power cycle, ports 1-24 have died. Ports 25-48 have lights on but don't appear to be routing traffic. Is this a PSU issue (one of the rails has failed) or are there power voltage regulators on the main board?
It's only a single supply rail from the PSU so it sounds like you've got a fault elsewhere. If you've got access to another GS748T you could try a bit of trial-by-substitution, but remember if you've got a fairly new switch it'll have a ridiculously long warranty, I think it's around the 27 year mark. Older ones will be I think a 5 year warranty. As long as you can dig up the receipt you can register the switch at any time to activate the warranty.
www.netgear.co.uk/about/warranty/
AintBigAintClever
It's a version 1 switch. I've taken the cover off and some of the Teapo caps on the main board have bulges on the top. I'll get those swapped out.
Where do I buy a new (and cheap) Power Supply for this switch (Netgear GS724t)?
ADP-40VP (5V-8A)
Thanks!
Artesyn equivalent: uk.rs-online.com/web/p/embedded-switch-mode-power-supplies-smps/6295721/
A small power supply like that isn't going to kill you if it's unplugged. You would just get a big shock and some nasty burns.
I have a Belkin Gigabit switch (Model no. F5D5141-8) with a failed ADP-30JP. Struggling to locate replacements that have the same footprint :/
At a push could you wire to an external power brick?
@@AintBigAintClever I was thinking about that. Do you think if the three red cables are all the same voltage?
The 30JP has only two of each colour, but only states one output voltage.
@@MrGeekGamer yep. If you test for continuity you should find all reds are together and all blacks are together. They're just bundled for increased current handling.
@@MrGeekGamer none of these fit the bill? uk.farnell.com/w/c/power-line-protection/power-supplies/ac-dc-converters/ac-dc-open-frame-power-supplies?no-of-outputs=1-output&power-rating-covection-cooling-=30w&output-voltage-output-1=5v
@@AintBigAintClever That's what I suspected. Thanks for the clarification.
Looking forward to seeing your future content!
I currently need a power supply for my netgear switch (netgear gs748t) but I cant seem to find one for sale in USA... Can you please help?
What's the exact model number of the power supply currently inside?
L.T.E. Model: LTE90S-S2
According to the data sheet that's a 90 watt power supply. 12V, 7.5A.
These ones would do the trick as they have the same footprint and mounting hole spacing but you'd need to modify or swap the output connector:
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/MDS-100APS12-BA
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/pjt-12v100wbaa
Datasheet for your existing PSU (covers all LTE90S-Sx models): datasheet.octopart.com/LTE90S-S1-Autec-Power-Systems-datasheet-11739340.pdf
Datasheet for suggested replacements: www.mouser.com/ds/2/632/Datasheet_mds-100aps12-b-774654.pdf
www.mouser.com/ds/2/632/Datasheet_pjt-12v100wbaa-773499.pdf
As you can see, the existing PSU outputs 0V on 1-3 and +12V on 4-6. The replacement outputs 0V on 1-4 and +12V on 4-6, plus pin 1 appears to be at the opposite end of the connector (same relative position between old and new, with 12V top-right and 0V bottom-right but the connector has the back facing out instead of in). You may need to swap the connector or at least turn it around and bend the outer pins to prevent mis-mating.
So get one of these and then just put my 6 pin connector in between the 8? so the two on the right and left of the conector woud be open
Yes (assuming the datasheets are correct). You can double-check by following the PCB tracks back to the output smoothing cap to verify polarity.
Thank you :)
1000 volt rated :)