Great video! Very well explained all the important details. I learned a lot and I am confident enough to go on with my own rebuild now. Thank you for helping out other diy'ers!
Thank you. I tried to make it with all the information you would possibly need for rebuilding it. It really is as simple as shown in the video. Nothing scary just take your time and you’ll be fine. 👍
Great video! I have an x3 and while they aren’t the exact same transfer cases this was still extremely helpful for me. I literally just rebuilt the clutch so after watching your video I was like “hmmm I don’t think I did that” so I want to check because thankfully I had not put the case back together and what do you know… I did not have them aligned 😮 thanks!!!! Just saved me from a really bad situation 😅
Glad you found it helpful for your situation! Thank you for commenting on how the video helped you. It’s nice to know it was worth the time it took to make. 😀
Thank you sir, intensely helpfull video. I was here because my transfer box makes a horrible grauling noise and shocks on acceleration (plastic gears in actuator have been replaced). When it goes in 4X4 inactive mode car drives smooth whitout anny noise. ZF 6HP26X gearbox has had new bearings, seals and friction plates (shift verry smoothly now). Valve body also refurbished (full zipkit). Car is a E53 X5 N62B44. I guess all i have to do now is the transfer box itself.
Thanks you, I hope it is helpful to you. I made it to be simple to follow and highlight all issues you should encounter. Having rebuild my transmission valve body too I can agree it’s a night a day difference. I can no longer tell when it changes gears and it does so much faster then it did before. Switching from drive to reverse is almost instant. It was probably one of the best repairs you can do to the car. It really is a must do if you want to truly enjoy it. 👍 After rebuilding the transfer case, I no longer get a clunk noise when switching from drive to Reverse and the howling noise went too. Best of luck with the rebuild and if you need any help feel free to ask.
Thank you that helps alot .. I will look into this and see if symptoms just like that . I no that at any speed it doesn't knock when not accelerateing. And it doesn't matter how hard or soft U accelerate it does the same knock . Thanks again .
Hmm 🤔 other than the knocking feeling from the gearbox bumpers, the transfer case case when stretched can make a knocking noise when putting the car in gear. I’m not sure that would be your noise tho. From my experience from knocking noise from accelerating. I had the gearbox bumps fail, rear cv axle fail leading to a knocking noise each time I hit the accelerator, it would take up the slack in the cv and knock. If it was this, you should hear it when charging from D to R (may help to have someone in the rear), transfer case chain stretch knock. You can test this the same way as above. Here is a video on the value body rebuild, skip to 14:10 to see the bumpers inside the gearbox and 17:35 to see what they should look like. ua-cam.com/video/W7DZbrvrI5k/v-deo.htmlsi=MHg6FOotyqjujTLq Mine were no way near as flat and I could feel it, having only done 140k miles. If they were as flat as in this video then you would definitely have a noticeable knock feeling. Edit: here is the video I used to rebuild mine ua-cam.com/video/KRcs67e6k8U/v-deo.htmlsi=cUe-KSvlVTI2Kctz All I replaced was the rubber bit in the bumpers and got a new separator plate. All in £100 and reused the old oil as I had only changed it 5k ago.
From my experience on all bmw with a zf automatic transmission with the rubber bumpers design, they all fail over time and can benefit from replacing. It was one of the best repairs I have done when it comes to driving the car. It really does restore the luxury feel and smoothness of the drive. It changes gear faster and seamlessly. I can no longer tell when it changes gear. Unlike before when I could feel each gear change (some more some less as the lower bumpers were more worn) Can not recommend it enough. 👍
Please note that the preface one with the 5 speed automatic has a different transfer box. This video would not help you rebuild that one. Your one should be the LWX500. If you still not sure what box you have look for an electrical plug connecting to it, as the LWX500 does not have one but the ATC 500 does. Hope that helps you out.
Here are all the bearing part numbers I ordered off eBay etc and below that is the website I used for the main other parts used in this video. Hk2512-b Hk4520 K45x50x17h Axk5578a (2 of them) Oil DTF1 83222409710 Others parts from awd.tech/collections/atc-500-bmw-x5
I finally broke open the ATC400 that needs a rebuild. I'm sad to see that the oil pump and drum are both quite scored but I'm very thankful you mentioned to look out for it in your video. Thanks again...I'll probably post one more time when I'm finished.
very nice write up thank you , ill be servicing mine in a couple weeks, but first those pesky oil temp thermostat orings and seal are pissing every where. not gonna be fun, but im gonna pull the diff and rebuild it while im in there anyway,
I have recently purchased a 09' BMW X5 with a bad transfer case. I was curious to see how involved a rebuild would be. I'm thinking I may just buy a rebuilt transfer with a warranty due to the fact that I don't have most of the tools you've used in this video😢... I have plenty of room for a transfer case considering the low price I paid on the X. 🤔I'm still very tempted to try the rebuild after watching your video
You could always sell the tools after you rebuild it to save money or keep them for future use. 👍 the E70 X5 has the atc700 transfer case and is very similar to this one but a few things different. Mainly the place of the motor that controls the clutch pack and it uses a different chain. But this guide will still help you rebuild it yourself, as it uses 95% the same parts. I don’t trust rebuild companies as most of them don’t fully rebuild it. They just replace the common parts, like the chain and outer seals and sell it as “rebuilt” What’s wrong with your transfer case?
Hi, the video is very helpful! I own an X5 E53 2005 (ATC 500), for a while I only had the 4x4 light on the dashboard (steering wheel angle sensor error), I bought a new one fitted, calibrated from the tester, all good. Until a few days ago when it rained heavily and the ground was quite slippery, I was leaving the yard with the x5 and we would feel a metallic clanking, as if the front dif was playing in the transfer case (a common thing with the x5 e53). The car can be moved, it leaves without any rattle when you move it from R to D and vice versa. I thought it would be the front dif. I check it and notice that it does not have any play, but having the car raised in front, and turning the dif, I could feel the chain of the transfer case which in my opinion is loose and should be changed as well still in doubt... This thing only happens when the car is on a soft road and has to really use its 4x4. The only thing that comes on but just as quickly goes out is the 4x4 warning light, which makes me think it's a mechanical problem, not an electronic one. I'm going to see if the transfer case is actually the bug....
I’m glad you found it useful! The facelift e53 with the ATC500 does not have the front driveshaft to diff problems the prefacelift had. You can just remove it all together and the car would still drive but be rear wheel drive only. (Might be worth disconnecting it to confirm it is the transfer case) The facelift e53 is 100% rear wheel drive until AWD is required then it puts the 4x4 light on the dash and sends power to the front wheels After about 120k miles the chain will have stretched 2mm or more from use and the clutch assembly bearings will be due replacing.
Thanks for the answer and the time! :)) The car has 342,000 km 3.0D 218hp I have the car since the summer of 2022, and that's when I changed the oil in the transfer case, rear/front differential and gearbox. I understood, from what I noticed when it felt like it was stuck, the 4x4 would come on briefly, I felt like it would engage the front, and if I accelerated harder, I could hear that metallic grinding noise, as if the chain is slipping, and only the back wheels was spinning. What would you recommend? Should I disconnect one or the other and see if the sound disappears?
@@culita2421 Your welcome, I’ll try and help. From the mileage and from the way you described it I would say it’s the chain. If you unplug the electrical connector on the motor on the transfer case it would disable 4x4 system and the chain will spin freely and makes the car rear wheel drive. (It will light up the dash, don’t worry) then try and make the noise again. If it’s the chain making the noise when the 4x4 is engaged. It shouldn’t with the 4x4 disabled it. Or if you remove the front driveshaft and keep the motor connected. The chain will have no load when engaged and spin freely. You will have no lights on the dash and be rear wheel drive only. Keep me informed on what you find.
Of course, these days I will take a look to see what the problem would be. I will update you as soon as I check. Ps: I have the periodic technical inspection (a kind of MOT) in March, I was really happy that I don't have anything to fix on the x5, but... plans have changed :)))
@@culita2421 something always breaks just before the MOT… it’s just the rules… I’d try and fix the minimum before it just in case they find something expensive… This time of year be careful with the door handles, if the door is frozen don’t pull hard on the handle (they like to break). If you have to pull hard use the top of the door frame 👍
I think the transfer case for your X5 would be the ATC45L and having a Quick Look at the parts diagram it looks to have a very different clutch and actuator setup but if you take your time, I’m sure you can rebuild it yourself, I got most my parts from a company in Europe called awd.tech as every other company I tried said they only sell to businesses… Here is there parts diagram, it also shows some part numbers. awd.tech/apps/catalog/transmission/atc45l-bmw?11
Wow thank you for making the video, I have 2013 bmw x1 35i 215000 miles . I am hearing low howl from t case. How much did the parts and tools cost. Thanks again.
Hey, I believe your transfer case is the ATC350. It’s different from this design and uses gears instead of a chain mechanism. I used the same parts website I used and by looking at its design and your complaint. I would say it would cost more Or less then £235 in parts and £200 in tools Tools and parts breakdown based on you having basic sockets and pry bars etc Parts: New bearing kit £150 Set of outer seals £50 Oil from bmw £35 Tools: Cheap 6ton press £80 Press and pull sleeve kit 27pc £65 Circlip pliers 4pc £15 80x100mm twin leg puller £15 Dead blow hammer £10 RTV victor-reinz 70ml £10 Parts £235 Tools £195 Total £430 Website for parts awd.tech/collections/atc-350-bmw-x1-5-7?page=2 If you need anymore help feel free to ask. 👍
I have also found 2 video to help you. This one shows how to open it and the guy has the same problem you have by the sounds of it. ua-cam.com/video/xnDmEqJHZRM/v-deo.htmlsi=NjJzHbFmWYd17TTL This one shows you the rebuild of your transfer case but is not in English but I’m sure it will help ua-cam.com/video/cgvkI1yzB3U/v-deo.htmlsi=aH2mJjV4zUCvT8Mb
How much do you think the parts would cost for such a nice job? Not sure if my F25 LCI has the same trasfer case. Also, stupid question, does the manual transmission have a transfer case?
This rebuild cost me £450. I believe your x3 has a atc45l transfer case (please double check before buying parts) it’s different from this one shown in the video but if you search ATC45L in UA-cam, you should find a video, showing you the basics of how to rebuild it. Being a manual it will still have the same transfer case as the automatic version. Unless you bought the very rare 2 wheel drive version.
They are slightly different but many of the parts are the same. From memory i believe the sliders and chain are different. This video should still work as a guide to help you rebuild it tho as they are very similar in design.
I believe your on about the first bearing I showed being replaced? The whole thing can be pryed off the housing. If your on about another bearing do let me know I’ll try by best to help.
Hi there just watched Ur video . I have problem with my X5 . Would this be somthing that would cause a gearbox knocking up the gears only when acceleration.gears work fine just a knocking when going up .thanks
Is it a light knock feeling when accelerating/when ever the car changes gear? If it is then it’s the rubber bumps inside the transmission that have gone flat over time. Each time it changes gear it bumps into them but over time they become flattened and lead to a knock/bump feeling when it changes gear. The fix is to pull the valve body apart and replace the rubber bumps. Costs £100 in parts. It will cost more if you’re changing the fluid and filter at the same time. If you need more info or help feel free to ask
@Thisbmwlife I have same intermittent slight lumpy gear changes, 04 e53 3.0d, done gb service inc bridge seal etc, but I think it's the zip kit for the valve body rebuild? If I get that done may as well get solenoids done... 💰 Also sometimes when you are coming to a stop but not fully if you then go again it sometimes takes a second to actually engage and pull away, I thought should I get actuator case and transfer case done will that sort it? Hello from the UK 🙂
Hey, I would recommend doing the rubber bumpers without doing a zip kit, unless your car really needs it. From the research I did, it can lead to damaging the value body if yours is not worn out and not installed perfectly. When it comes to the solenoids, if you have the money, change them. It future proofs the box and will fix any slow gear change issues this car has. As they age and without frequent oil changes they start to fail and lead to slow shifts. From the sounds of it that’s what you have. For the transfer case. I would change the plastic gear in the motor housing to protect yourself from catastrophic failure of the clutch pack. The transfer case should not cause your shift issues as it’s always connected to the output of the transmission to the rear wheel so it cannot affect shifting. But can knock if the chain has stretched and you change from d to r and on and off the throttle.
@@Thisbmwlife that's brilliant thank you, I've got a slight vibration near arm rest on pulling away , which makes me think actuator gear needs to he replaced asap, I get a monthly slot in the garage as I like to make sure we can do any preventative maintenance 💰 I will get the solenoids and the black rubber bumpers done with next gearbox service, I want my favourite car to last intill it's at least 25 😁 thanks again great information and videos 👍
I have a problem with a humming noise in the car, I had the bridge checked, the parts were damaged, the shaft was also loose, the front bearings were also refurbished, it didn't help, maybe the xdrive was damaged, could it make humming noises?
Yes it could make a humming noise but there are many things thats can make noises like that. I would recommend getting a passenger to move around the car as you drive it and see if they can help pinpoint the source of the sound. Humming noises can echo around, so it can be hard to pinpoint it. Common humming noise are Wheel bearing Tires Centre propshaft Bearing The bearing support on the right side cv axle (opposite side from the front differential) Front differential Rear differential (more common on facelift) Transfer case I would need more information to help, eg does it change with speed, turning, is it engine speed dependent or road speed etc. Do keep me updated, I would love to know if you do find out what it is.👍
Having been watched all your videos, I would say it’s highly likely the front differential. They are very well known for going bad. Your front differential is the same style as the one I have a video of rebuilding but it using an aluminium case and ball bearing style bearing, that are very well known for going bad. I would recommend making your car RWD to confirm it’s the differential. You do this by removing the front propshaft and both front driveshafts. Then buy an outer cv joint or use your old driveshafts cv joint and remove all the ball bearing etc from it and Install that in the hub of each front wheel. (Without it your wheel would fall off). This would only cost time or about £50 in parts if you buy used driveshafts for the cv joints. Rough guess at garage time would be 3 hours. Or just remove the front propshaft to start with and go for a drive and see if the sound is there. 30mins to 1h to remove that.
The transfer case In your X5 is the ATC 13 and is different from this style. I did find a company on eBay that could maybe help you with this. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166370646843?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EVBK0N4jTb6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Here is the parts company I use and the full parts diagram for your transfer case. It shows you how different they are. awd.tech/apps/catalog/transmission/atc13-bmw
Now that’s a good question. They are almost the same and from reading on a Russian forum. It can be used on the e53 as they have the same bolt pattern as the atc500. But I can’t remember nor can I find the post again to see if there is anything else required to complete the swap. If you do try the atc700 do let me know how it goes. 👍
I bought a broken ATC500 from E53 X5 and I also bought a cheaper one ATC700 from E70 X5. So I will replace the clutches of ATC700 and swap in E53 X5. Maybe there ist something stiffer or better for more torque.
The Russian forum said it might be an upgrade as the e70 has higher torque than the e53 so there might be small changes that make it a little better. The clutches are the same so you can just swap them round if they’re good because buying new ones is quite expensive. 1.6mm is new spec. Don’t forget you’re going to need to run bmw software to recalibrate the clutch pack after install. Anymore info you might need feel free to ask. 👍
Hi, am here because i am struggling to get the service kit where i am, and more thing are getting damaged due to this issue. they only sell the transfer case as whole 😔😔
I had the same problem. All the local companies would only sell to business accounts. I had to order from awd.tech as they ship to most countries. I hope that helps. 👍
hey there brother. i gotta question for you - im installing xdelete for the time being because my front axle is shot and i gotta drive the car with the axle removed. as far as i know with the clutches "turned off" electronically they still have friction and heat up the transfer case so im removing the front drive shaft as well to reduce the rotating inertia so theres less resistance, will this work as i stated or am i just a moron?
Yes you can remove the front driveshaft to remove friction off the clutch, but I would not think it would matter much. Bearing In mind car is almost always in off mode anyways. It only becomes all wheel drive when called upon. so the friction from that would be way higher then with your axles out. Removing it however would full disable the front differential so that’s always a good thing as with your front driveshaft in, the differential is still spinning and with both axles out dirt will get in and over time can lead to damage.
Отличное видео по ремонту atc500! Подскажи пожалуйста может ли влиять растянутая цепь в раздатке на затягивание передач при движении? При отключении электромотора машина идёт практически идеально, нет пинков и рывков при начале движения.
For me the small amount of stretch in the chain, made a clunk noise when going into gear. I would guess if it got worse it could make it clunk noise each time you set off as the slack of the chain is taken up.
Цепь точно не может влиять на это. Очень похоже, что при включенной раздатке появляется повышенная нагрузка на трансмиссию и передачи переключаются позже. Так быть не должно. А что с накатом автомобиля, в поворотах не тормозит? Шины на передней и задней оси одной модели и размера установлены? Редукторы родные или меняли?
Good shit bro, I was bored, always watch bmw related repair vids and this was by far the most fun lol
I watch so much stuff about other cars I’m never going to need lol
Great video! Very well explained all the important details. I learned a lot and I am confident enough to go on with my own rebuild now. Thank you for helping out other diy'ers!
Thanks for taking the time and commenting and leaving such a nice comment. I’m so glad to hear it can help another person out. 👍
Very helpful!! Very informative and well done mate. Thank you! From Oregon USA.
Thank you for commenting all the way from Oregon! Glad you enjoyed it. 😀
Great video, thanks for taking the time to do it! I will soon be attempting to do the same on my atc500 and will use your video as a guide.
Thank you for your kind words and telling me how this video will help you. I’m so glad someone is going to get use out of it.
Loved this video... I normally can't be tolerant of more ppls videos , but I watched the own thing... Great job 👏
I appreciate that! 😀
Excellent no nonsense video. Clear and concise. Well done. This job may be in my future.🤔
Thank you. I tried to make it with all the information you would possibly need for rebuilding it. It really is as simple as shown in the video. Nothing scary just take your time and you’ll be fine. 👍
Thanks for the video. You should make more of them. You are really good at it you know. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I will make more in the future. 😀
Thank you for this video, very very informative 👌
Thank you for commenting, I’m glad you found it very informative. 😀
Great video! I have an x3 and while they aren’t the exact same transfer cases this was still extremely helpful for me. I literally just rebuilt the clutch so after watching your video I was like “hmmm I don’t think I did that” so I want to check because thankfully I had not put the case back together and what do you know… I did not have them aligned 😮 thanks!!!! Just saved me from a really bad situation 😅
Glad you found it helpful for your situation! Thank you for commenting on how the video helped you. It’s nice to know it was worth the time it took to make. 😀
@@Thisbmwlife you probably saved me a few thousand dollars at the least, thanks again!
Thank you sir, intensely helpfull video.
I was here because my transfer box makes a horrible grauling noise and shocks on acceleration (plastic gears in actuator have been replaced).
When it goes in 4X4 inactive mode car drives smooth whitout anny noise.
ZF 6HP26X gearbox has had new bearings, seals and friction plates (shift verry smoothly now).
Valve body also refurbished (full zipkit).
Car is a E53 X5 N62B44.
I guess all i have to do now is the transfer box itself.
Thanks you, I hope it is helpful to you. I made it to be simple to follow and highlight all issues you should encounter.
Having rebuild my transmission valve body too I can agree it’s a night a day difference. I can no longer tell when it changes gears and it does so much faster then it did before. Switching from drive to reverse is almost instant. It was probably one of the best repairs you can do to the car. It really is a must do if you want to truly enjoy it. 👍
After rebuilding the transfer case, I no longer get a clunk noise when switching from drive to Reverse and the howling noise went too. Best of luck with the rebuild and if you need any help feel free to ask.
Thank you that helps alot .. I will look into this and see if symptoms just like that . I no that at any speed it doesn't knock when not accelerateing. And it doesn't matter how hard or soft U accelerate it does the same knock . Thanks again .
And I wouldn't say it was a heavy knock .
Hmm 🤔 other than the knocking feeling from the gearbox bumpers, the transfer case case when stretched can make a knocking noise when putting the car in gear. I’m not sure that would be your noise tho.
From my experience from knocking noise from accelerating. I had the gearbox bumps fail, rear cv axle fail leading to a knocking noise each time I hit the accelerator, it would take up the slack in the cv and knock. If it was this, you should hear it when charging from D to R (may help to have someone in the rear), transfer case chain stretch knock. You can test this the same way as above.
Here is a video on the value body rebuild, skip to 14:10 to see the bumpers inside the gearbox and 17:35 to see what they should look like.
ua-cam.com/video/W7DZbrvrI5k/v-deo.htmlsi=MHg6FOotyqjujTLq
Mine were no way near as flat and I could feel it, having only done 140k miles. If they were as flat as in this video then you would definitely have a noticeable knock feeling.
Edit: here is the video I used to rebuild mine
ua-cam.com/video/KRcs67e6k8U/v-deo.htmlsi=cUe-KSvlVTI2Kctz
All I replaced was the rubber bit in the bumpers and got a new separator plate. All in £100 and reused the old oil as I had only changed it 5k ago.
From my experience on all bmw with a zf automatic transmission with the rubber bumpers design, they all fail over time and can benefit from replacing. It was one of the best repairs I have done when it comes to driving the car. It really does restore the luxury feel and smoothness of the drive. It changes gear faster and seamlessly. I can no longer tell when it changes gear. Unlike before when I could feel each gear change (some more some less as the lower bumpers were more worn)
Can not recommend it enough. 👍
@@Thisbmwlife thank you really good to heard from some experienced person . Thanks I will pass the knowledge on thanks 👍🏻
Clear video, the best one I saw
How I can ask for to get a full kit for BMW X5 e53 2003
Please note that the preface one with the 5 speed automatic has a different transfer box. This video would not help you rebuild that one. Your one should be the LWX500. If you still not sure what box you have look for an electrical plug connecting to it, as the LWX500 does not have one but the ATC 500 does. Hope that helps you out.
Great explanation 👌
Thanks Alex! 👍
Partlist would be great 😍
Here are all the bearing part numbers I ordered off eBay etc and below that is the website I used for the main other parts used in this video.
Hk2512-b
Hk4520
K45x50x17h
Axk5578a (2 of them)
Oil DTF1 83222409710
Others parts from
awd.tech/collections/atc-500-bmw-x5
Great tutorial
Thanks 👍
Great instructional and clear. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I tried to make it as easy to follow as possible with as much information as needed.
I finally broke open the ATC400 that needs a rebuild. I'm sad to see that the oil pump and drum are both quite scored but I'm very thankful you mentioned to look out for it in your video. Thanks again...I'll probably post one more time when I'm finished.
I’m so glad it helped you rebuild yours. How did it go?
@@Thisbmwlife It went very well! Thank you.
Great to hear 😀
very nice write up thank you , ill be servicing mine in a couple weeks, but first those pesky oil temp thermostat orings and seal are pissing every where. not gonna be fun, but im gonna pull the diff and rebuild it while im in there anyway,
Thanks. Good luck with the oil leaks and don’t forget to order the o ring for the diff to oil pan or it will leak diff oil from there. 👍
Everything look ok on my transfer case until I saw your video lol thank you
Hopefully it stays ok but if anything ever goes wrong. You now have a guide 👍
I have recently purchased a 09' BMW X5 with a bad transfer case. I was curious to see how involved a rebuild would be. I'm thinking I may just buy a rebuilt transfer with a warranty due to the fact that I don't have most of the tools you've used in this video😢... I have plenty of room for a transfer case considering the low price I paid on the X. 🤔I'm still very tempted to try the rebuild after watching your video
You could always sell the tools after you rebuild it to save money or keep them for future use. 👍 the E70 X5 has the atc700 transfer case and is very similar to this one but a few things different. Mainly the place of the motor that controls the clutch pack and it uses a different chain. But this guide will still help you rebuild it yourself, as it uses 95% the same parts.
I don’t trust rebuild companies as most of them don’t fully rebuild it. They just replace the common parts, like the chain and outer seals and sell it as “rebuilt”
What’s wrong with your transfer case?
Hi, the video is very helpful! I own an X5 E53 2005 (ATC 500), for a while I only had the 4x4 light on the dashboard (steering wheel angle sensor error), I bought a new one fitted, calibrated from the tester, all good. Until a few days ago when it rained heavily and the ground was quite slippery, I was leaving the yard with the x5 and we would feel a metallic clanking, as if the front dif was playing in the transfer case (a common thing with the x5 e53). The car can be moved, it leaves without any rattle when you move it from R to D and vice versa. I thought it would be the front dif.
I check it and notice that it does not have any play, but having the car raised in front, and turning the dif, I could feel the chain of the transfer case which in my opinion is loose and should be changed as well still in doubt... This thing only happens when the car is on a soft road and has to really use its 4x4. The only thing that comes on but just as quickly goes out is the 4x4 warning light, which makes me think it's a mechanical problem, not an electronic one. I'm going to see if the transfer case is actually the bug....
I’m glad you found it useful! The facelift e53 with the ATC500 does not have the front driveshaft to diff problems the prefacelift had. You can just remove it all together and the car would still drive but be rear wheel drive only. (Might be worth disconnecting it to confirm it is the transfer case)
The facelift e53 is 100% rear wheel drive until AWD is required then it puts the 4x4 light on the dash and sends power to the front wheels
After about 120k miles the chain will have stretched 2mm or more from use and the clutch assembly bearings will be due replacing.
Thanks for the answer and the time! :))
The car has 342,000 km 3.0D 218hp
I have the car since the summer of 2022, and that's when I changed the oil in the transfer case, rear/front differential and gearbox.
I understood, from what I noticed when it felt like it was stuck, the 4x4 would come on briefly, I felt like it would engage the front, and if I accelerated harder, I could hear that metallic grinding noise, as if the chain is slipping, and only the back wheels was spinning.
What would you recommend?
Should I disconnect one or the other and see if the sound disappears?
@@culita2421 Your welcome, I’ll try and help. From the mileage and from the way you described it I would say it’s the chain. If you unplug the electrical connector on the motor on the transfer case it would disable 4x4 system and the chain will spin freely and makes the car rear wheel drive. (It will light up the dash, don’t worry) then try and make the noise again. If it’s the chain making the noise when the 4x4 is engaged. It shouldn’t with the 4x4 disabled it.
Or if you remove the front driveshaft and keep the motor connected. The chain will have no load when engaged and spin freely. You will have no lights on the dash and be rear wheel drive only.
Keep me informed on what you find.
Of course, these days I will take a look to see what the problem would be.
I will update you as soon as I check.
Ps: I have the periodic technical inspection (a kind of MOT) in March, I was really happy that I don't have anything to fix on the x5, but... plans have changed :)))
@@culita2421 something always breaks just before the MOT… it’s just the rules… I’d try and fix the minimum before it just in case they find something expensive… This time of year be careful with the door handles, if the door is frozen don’t pull hard on the handle (they like to break). If you have to pull hard use the top of the door frame 👍
Excellent tutorial!
I'm guessing F85 isnt much different. What would be your recommendation on finding part numbers for my case?
I think the transfer case for your X5 would be the ATC45L and having a Quick Look at the parts diagram it looks to have a very different clutch and actuator setup but if you take your time, I’m sure you can rebuild it yourself,
I got most my parts from a company in Europe called awd.tech as every other company I tried said they only sell to businesses…
Here is there parts diagram, it also shows some part numbers.
awd.tech/apps/catalog/transmission/atc45l-bmw?11
@@Thisbmwlife much appreciated 👍
I missed the step to line up the holes when assembled the clutch disks. I have to remove the TC out again.
Oh, sorry to hear that. Hope all goes well. 👍
I am also guilty, but I don't have the transfer case fitted yet tg
Wow thank you for making the video, I have 2013 bmw x1 35i 215000 miles . I am hearing low howl from t case. How much did the parts and tools cost. Thanks again.
Hey, I believe your transfer case is the ATC350. It’s different from this design and uses gears instead of a chain mechanism. I used the same parts website I used and by looking at its design and your complaint. I would say it would cost more
Or less then £235 in parts and £200 in tools
Tools and parts breakdown based on you having basic sockets and pry bars etc
Parts:
New bearing kit £150
Set of outer seals £50
Oil from bmw £35
Tools:
Cheap 6ton press £80
Press and pull sleeve kit 27pc £65
Circlip pliers 4pc £15
80x100mm twin leg puller £15
Dead blow hammer £10
RTV victor-reinz 70ml £10
Parts £235
Tools £195
Total £430
Website for parts
awd.tech/collections/atc-350-bmw-x1-5-7?page=2
If you need anymore help feel free to ask. 👍
I have also found 2 video to help you.
This one shows how to open it and the guy has the same problem you have by the sounds of it.
ua-cam.com/video/xnDmEqJHZRM/v-deo.htmlsi=NjJzHbFmWYd17TTL
This one shows you the rebuild of your transfer case but is not in English but I’m sure it will help
ua-cam.com/video/cgvkI1yzB3U/v-deo.htmlsi=aH2mJjV4zUCvT8Mb
How much do you think the parts would cost for such a nice job? Not sure if my F25 LCI has the same trasfer case. Also, stupid question, does the manual transmission have a transfer case?
This rebuild cost me £450. I believe your x3 has a atc45l transfer case (please double check before buying parts) it’s different from this one shown in the video but if you search ATC45L in UA-cam, you should find a video, showing you the basics of how to rebuild it.
Being a manual it will still have the same transfer case as the automatic version. Unless you bought the very rare 2 wheel drive version.
What RTV do you recommend for sealing the case halves?
Victor-Reinz Reinzosil. It’s the best RTV I have ever used and is dark grey in colour.
Is this the same as for the ATC700? I noticed some of your parts are for that version of the xfer case.
They are slightly different but many of the parts are the same. From memory i believe the sliders and chain are different. This video should still work as a guide to help you rebuild it tho as they are very similar in design.
Following up. I just completed this for an ATV700 - your video was exceptional! Thank you@@Thisbmwlife
Thank you so much for the follow up! Love hearing the video was helpful. 😀
How did you remove that needle sleeve to replace the small bearing
I believe your on about the first bearing I showed being replaced? The whole thing can be pryed off the housing.
If your on about another bearing do let me know I’ll try by best to help.
Hi there just watched Ur video . I have problem with my X5 . Would this be somthing that would cause a gearbox knocking up the gears only when acceleration.gears work fine just a knocking when going up .thanks
Is it a light knock feeling when accelerating/when ever the car changes gear?
If it is then it’s the rubber bumps inside the transmission that have gone flat over time. Each time it changes gear it bumps into them but over time they become flattened and lead to a knock/bump feeling when it changes gear. The fix is to pull the valve body apart and replace the rubber bumps. Costs £100 in parts. It will cost more if you’re changing the fluid and filter at the same time.
If you need more info or help feel free to ask
Also I have already put a gearbox service on it to see if would solve problem. Did not fix it .thanks
@Thisbmwlife I have same intermittent slight lumpy gear changes, 04 e53 3.0d, done gb service inc bridge seal etc, but I think it's the zip kit for the valve body rebuild? If I get that done may as well get solenoids done... 💰 Also sometimes when you are coming to a stop but not fully if you then go again it sometimes takes a second to actually engage and pull away, I thought should I get actuator case and transfer case done will that sort it? Hello from the UK 🙂
Hey, I would recommend doing the rubber bumpers without doing a zip kit, unless your car really needs it. From the research I did, it can lead to damaging the value body if yours is not worn out and not installed perfectly.
When it comes to the solenoids, if you have the money, change them. It future proofs the box and will fix any slow gear change issues this car has. As they age and without frequent oil changes they start to fail and lead to slow shifts. From the sounds of it that’s what you have.
For the transfer case. I would change the plastic gear in the motor housing to protect yourself from catastrophic failure of the clutch pack. The transfer case should not cause your shift issues as it’s always connected to the output of the transmission to the rear wheel so it cannot affect shifting. But can knock if the chain has stretched and you change from d to r and on and off the throttle.
@@Thisbmwlife that's brilliant thank you, I've got a slight vibration near arm rest on pulling away , which makes me think actuator gear needs to he replaced asap, I get a monthly slot in the garage as I like to make sure we can do any preventative maintenance 💰 I will get the solenoids and the black rubber bumpers done with next gearbox service, I want my favourite car to last intill it's at least 25 😁 thanks again great information and videos 👍
I have a problem with a humming noise in the car, I had the bridge checked, the parts were damaged, the shaft was also loose, the front bearings were also refurbished, it didn't help, maybe the xdrive was damaged, could it make humming noises?
Yes it could make a humming noise but there are many things thats can make noises like that.
I would recommend getting a passenger to move around the car as you drive it and see if they can help pinpoint the source of the sound. Humming noises can echo around, so it can be hard to pinpoint it.
Common humming noise are
Wheel bearing
Tires
Centre propshaft Bearing
The bearing support on the right side cv axle (opposite side from the front differential)
Front differential
Rear differential (more common on facelift)
Transfer case
I would need more information to help, eg does it change with speed, turning, is it engine speed dependent or road speed etc.
Do keep me updated, I would love to know if you do find out what it is.👍
ua-cam.com/users/shortsZ3mYbFDHKqg?si=0Dzpo5noMtscKJFk
Having been watched all your videos, I would say it’s highly likely the front differential. They are very well known for going bad. Your front differential is the same style as the one I have a video of rebuilding but it using an aluminium case and ball bearing style bearing, that are very well known for going bad.
I would recommend making your car RWD to confirm it’s the differential. You do this by removing the front propshaft and both front driveshafts. Then buy an outer cv joint or use your old driveshafts cv joint and remove all the ball bearing etc from it and Install that in the hub of each front wheel. (Without it your wheel would fall off).
This would only cost time or about £50 in parts if you buy used driveshafts for the cv joints. Rough guess at garage time would be 3 hours.
Or just remove the front propshaft to start with and go for a drive and see if the sound is there. 30mins to 1h to remove that.
Would you be able to do it on my X5 G05? I guess you are based in the UK?
The transfer case In your X5 is the ATC 13 and is different from this style.
I did find a company on eBay that could maybe help you with this.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166370646843?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EVBK0N4jTb6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Here is the parts company I use and the full parts diagram for your transfer case. It shows you how different they are.
awd.tech/apps/catalog/transmission/atc13-bmw
Thank you so much
Does anyone know the diffrence between ATC 500 and 700 series? It looks the same, the spare parts are same, can i put ATC700 instead of 500?
Now that’s a good question. They are almost the same and from reading on a Russian forum. It can be used on the e53 as they have the same bolt pattern as the atc500. But I can’t remember nor can I find the post again to see if there is anything else required to complete the swap.
If you do try the atc700 do let me know how it goes. 👍
I bought a broken ATC500 from E53 X5 and I also bought a cheaper one ATC700 from E70 X5. So I will replace the clutches of ATC700 and swap in E53 X5. Maybe there ist something stiffer or better for more torque.
The Russian forum said it might be an upgrade as the e70 has higher torque than the e53 so there might be small changes that make it a little better.
The clutches are the same so you can just swap them round if they’re good because buying new ones is quite expensive. 1.6mm is new spec.
Don’t forget you’re going to need to run bmw software to recalibrate the clutch pack after install.
Anymore info you might need feel free to ask. 👍
Do you have a garage/workshop?
No sorry I don’t.
Hi, am here because i am struggling to get the service kit where i am, and more thing are getting damaged due to this issue. they only sell the transfer case as whole 😔😔
I had the same problem. All the local companies would only sell to business accounts. I had to order from awd.tech as they ship to most countries. I hope that helps. 👍
hey there brother. i gotta question for you - im installing xdelete for the time being because my front axle is shot and i gotta drive the car with the axle removed. as far as i know with the clutches "turned off" electronically they still have friction and heat up the transfer case so im removing the front drive shaft as well to reduce the rotating inertia so theres less resistance, will this work as i stated or am i just a moron?
Yes you can remove the front driveshaft to remove friction off the clutch, but I would not think it would matter much. Bearing In mind car is almost always in off mode anyways. It only becomes all wheel drive when called upon. so the friction from that would be way higher then with your axles out.
Removing it however would full disable the front differential so that’s always a good thing as with your front driveshaft in, the differential is still spinning and with both axles out dirt will get in and over time can lead to damage.
@@Thisbmwlife didn’t think of that.
Отличное видео по ремонту atc500!
Подскажи пожалуйста может ли влиять растянутая цепь в раздатке на затягивание передач при движении? При отключении электромотора машина идёт практически идеально, нет пинков и рывков при начале движения.
For me the small amount of stretch in the chain, made a clunk noise when going into gear. I would guess if it got worse it could make it clunk noise each time you set off as the slack of the chain is taken up.
Цепь точно не может влиять на это. Очень похоже, что при включенной раздатке появляется повышенная нагрузка на трансмиссию и передачи переключаются позже. Так быть не должно. А что с накатом автомобиля, в поворотах не тормозит? Шины на передней и задней оси одной модели и размера установлены? Редукторы родные или меняли?