Thanks for sharing your experience, my TA02s Lancia 037 is my first build since having a Tamiya Frog as a child, so have been busy buying Aluminium today 👍
Perfect advice. Thanks a lot. Except of the steering mounts I have done all of these upgrades. It lifts the TA-02 to the next level. Steering mounts will follow next time.
I've just installed all the Jazrider parts you have shown on this video and the front and rear gearbox covers ( for bling only). I had heard mixed feelings on jazrider parts and I'm glad I didn't listern to most of them. Very happy with all the parts. Fit perfectly. Other things i did was to make some camber links. Upgraded the shocks to the pink tamiya ones and finally got some custom made alloy parts coming but again there just bling really. Great video as always 👍
picking one of these up soon its been used and abused and can not wait to restore it, be the first time for me as i am a crawler guy :) but will be nice to have something go fast for ones. and sit on the self looking odd in my crawler collection, might have to get it a friend :P
So far the worst shock towers I've come across are on the Stadium Blitzer. The two I have both had cracked towers, one was ghetto repaired, the other looked alright, till I drove the car. I wound up "fixing" it by shaving off the posts, and using a bunch of Mecano spacers and bits from Grasshopper/Hornet shocks. Looks a lot better than whatever the previous owner did lol.
Just some rubber O rings under the rod end over the ball helps for a quick fix. Also countersunk screws not flat head. The hole in the front shock tower could be for a anti-roll bar?
Countersunk screws are called flat head, not to be confused with slotted which everyone calls flat head. All my vendors get mad when I call them counter sunk, even though that is what they are. O-rings work too, silicon ones in particular.
@@AMPROEngineering I use them all the time for my 3D prints or these "stand offs" - straight enough I would say :D 80% straightness for 20% effort... But I get your point :)
White Elmer's Glue works as a thread lock on plastic... as stated, never use liquid thread lock on styrene plastic, because the aggresive solvent will crack it.
You do need to use a thread lock that is designed for plastic otherwise...good bye. I think it would work quite well. I use mod podge but I think elmers would be great.
Good stuff man, but the RS version was only available for the ta02.. I think you mean the SW short-wide version.. and david jun raced the ta03, the 02 never won any major races the earliest car was the ta03 in 1996 I believe
Very useful information! Like you I’ve been tinkering with Tamiya kits a long time. Another issue I’d like to see some aftermarket support for is the weak ball differential. Seems like I’m lucky to get a summer out of the splines on the rear differential before they get sheered off and I’m running the model in front wheels drive while waiting for replacement parts.
I hope this proves useful to you,when fitting the alloy motor mounts for these chassis cars, take note that the two "pillars" that insert into the gearbox are of slightly different lengths.The difference and orientation can be seen if you place the original plastic mount pillar side down on a flat surface.I have had generic alloy mounts in the past that came with equal length pillars and they cause the mount and therefore the motor to align slightly squint in the gear case and not sit flush against the internal surface.This results in the motor not being as stable or robustly mounted and angled wear on the spur/pinion.I am sure there is a Tamiya diagram showing the millimeter or so difference in lengths in the instructions for Tamiyas own metal motor mount hop up part.
This is interesting. How can they be different lengths if the attach to the same part and to the motor on the same face? Perhaps the mold of the gearbox is different internally? I will check this out. Thank you for bringing it up.
I feel it may have been a type of counterfeit measure against chinese clone models perhaps? but if you get an original plastic or Tamiyas own metal mount,lay it peg side down on a flat surface you will see one peg is maybe 2mm longer and the gearbox must be shaped to receive it also.as my ,I want to say GPM? but it may have been a GPM copy part mount,didnt sit straight and the motor could make a creak noise if you tried to move it once it was fastened in.@@AMPROEngineering
My experience with both the TA02 & FF01 I’ve found that the steering knuckles also split and or strip (especially if a big gorilla over tightens them 😝) at the king pin screws it seems to be wear from a combination of constant disassembly/reassembly and maybe crashes. My “must do list” (after ball bearings) definitely includes shims and O-rings etc to get rid of slop/play front & rear universals I actually prefer to use ball studs on the shock mounts (usually with a o-ring) Not a necessity but the steering setup on the FRP chassis is so much better especially after adding 5x8 bearings back when my FF01 was new that was actually one of the first major upgrades I did. when I picked up a TA02 kit I ordered a FRP chassis kit and installed it on day 1 along with the FRP shock towers so the gearboxes and the front lower gear box cover cracking were the only thing I really experienced while racing the TA02.
I used to use ball studs in the past (so much easier) but that was when my towers were all cracking so then i was forced to go with the screw. Now, that is not the case.
I suspect that means the adjustable upper link? They used to make kits but those have been gone 20+ years now. I would source Tamiya ball cups, large tamiya ball studs and some threaded rod and make your own. This is usually what I do.
I already get used to the fact that some PA/ABS parts on my old Tamiya chassis may have broken...my CC01 isuzu got exactly the same cracked parts as your TA02 in this episode...
@@AMPROEngineering For those new Tamiyas they put too little fibers in those nylons, and I got them over tightened unconsciously. Still can't treat them like an AXIAL!
Eh, well if you follow my IG you may see them get a few inches of air on a small sidewalk jump they a tree created at my neighbors house. They crack at the mounts to the chassis and the shock screw mounts. Every one I have was broken but only one of the bunch was bought new, the others were used and who knows what lives the lead before.
I just love that Halvoline Mondeo, and the TA01/02 chassis is still one of my favourite Tamiya chassis along with the CCO1. Nice video man. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧 Ps…..What’s the purpose of the rubber washers on the shocks?
Thank you! So that is just there to prevent the top shock mount from "wandering". The stock sleeve is longer than the thickness of the upper shock cap eyelet so it is the Tamiya way to make it stay put and still have some flex.
IMO the most important upgrades are the strengthened prop shaft and a set of ball studs to mount the shocks. That alloy steering looks fucky, if it's anything like the one they make for the CC01 it won't last. Even 100% stock though it's still way better than any of the TT01/TT02 chassis. Those things are vile.
I can watch his shows 20 times each- Amazing keep it going you help so many of us out- PS maybe a Prerunner show lol
Haha! Thanks!
Old-school, I remember :)
Haha!
Thanks for sharing your experience, my TA02s Lancia 037 is my first build since having a Tamiya Frog as a child, so have been busy buying Aluminium today 👍
Haha! Sorry in advance.
Perfect advice. Thanks a lot. Except of the steering mounts I have done all of these upgrades. It lifts the TA-02 to the next level. Steering mounts will follow next time.
It really does. This is an outstanding car and I find that with these goodies, it is just about perfect.
Nice work, I have a TA-03, the steering is much the same and I did the same thing with it. It's actually a fun little chassis.
I didnt know it was the same there too!
I've just installed all the Jazrider parts you have shown on this video and the front and rear gearbox covers ( for bling only). I had heard mixed feelings on jazrider parts and I'm glad I didn't listern to most of them. Very happy with all the parts. Fit perfectly. Other things i did was to make some camber links. Upgraded the shocks to the pink tamiya ones and finally got some custom made alloy parts coming but again there just bling really. Great video as always 👍
I heard the same. To me the lack of instruction manuals is a joke so once you get them in, they are great. I love those pink shocks!
@@AMPROEngineering TBH if it wasn't for your video i might have put the stearing linkage together incorrectly so cheers for that 👍
My Tao2 is at the repair and upgrade phase . Thanks for the info 😊👍
Any time!
Sure thing! I love these chassis.
Hey hey hey let's remember this is a family show!!!!!!!
HAhahahah!
doing the steering upgrade with this video playing in background right now
Nice! It is one of my fave mods.
picking one of these up soon its been used and abused and can not wait to restore it, be the first time for me as i am a crawler guy :) but will be nice to have something go fast for ones. and sit on the self looking odd in my crawler collection, might have to get it a friend :P
Haha! I do love the TA02 chassis. They are awesome and a lot of fun.
I will eventually have a TA02. And will definitely make these upgrades.
It is a great car. I love them
So far the worst shock towers I've come across are on the Stadium Blitzer. The two I have both had cracked towers, one was ghetto repaired, the other looked alright, till I drove the car.
I wound up "fixing" it by shaving off the posts, and using a bunch of Mecano spacers and bits from Grasshopper/Hornet shocks. Looks a lot better than whatever the previous owner did lol.
OMG yeah you are dead right. I have the same issue and plan on designing new ones.
Just some rubber O rings under the rod end over the ball helps for a quick fix. Also countersunk screws not flat head. The hole in the front shock tower could be for a anti-roll bar?
Countersunk screws are called flat head, not to be confused with slotted which everyone calls flat head. All my vendors get mad when I call them counter sunk, even though that is what they are. O-rings work too, silicon ones in particular.
Love the video. I find a small amount of Teflon tape fixes most striped screw threads if anyone has done it.
That is a good tip. So many of the screw holes on my cars were just totally split and broken. So annoying.
oh my... Looks like I'm not the only person that likes these before watching them.
LOL! haha! Thanks
drill out the holes used for self tapers and use heat and press in ruthex thread inserts :)
For people with a jig, thats fine. For all others, they will never be straight lol! But to be fair, the self tappers arent either.
@@AMPROEngineering I use them all the time for my 3D prints or these "stand offs" - straight enough I would say :D 80% straightness for 20% effort...
But I get your point :)
@@PachezZ Oh i do to but you have people who know how and you have people who are mad at you for having them melt their parts, hahah!
Awesome. Thank you.
Sure thing!
White Elmer's Glue works as a thread lock on plastic... as stated, never use liquid thread lock on styrene plastic, because the aggresive solvent will crack it.
You do need to use a thread lock that is designed for plastic otherwise...good bye. I think it would work quite well. I use mod podge but I think elmers would be great.
Good stuff man, but the RS version was only available for the ta02.. I think you mean the SW short-wide version.. and david jun raced the ta03, the 02 never won any major races the earliest car was the ta03 in 1996 I believe
Yeah that's right. It was the RS
Right on for the Kim Bro products servo saver recommendation I’ve been looking for the best Tamiya replacement that wasn’t grossly oversized.
Its a great part. I have used these since the early 90's!
Just ordered a bunch
Very useful information! Like you I’ve been tinkering with Tamiya kits a long time. Another issue I’d like to see some aftermarket support for is the weak ball differential. Seems like I’m lucky to get a summer out of the splines on the rear differential before they get sheered off and I’m running the model in front wheels drive while waiting for replacement parts.
Sure have...haha! Damn I'm amazed to hear that. I think all of mine have the stock diff's but in truth, they are all pretty slow.
I hope this proves useful to you,when fitting the alloy motor mounts for these chassis cars, take note that the two "pillars" that insert into the gearbox are of slightly different lengths.The difference and orientation can be seen if you place the original plastic mount pillar side down on a flat surface.I have had generic alloy mounts in the past that came with equal length pillars and they cause the mount and therefore the motor to align slightly squint in the gear case and not sit flush against the internal surface.This results in the motor not being as stable or robustly mounted and angled wear on the spur/pinion.I am sure there is a Tamiya diagram showing the millimeter or so difference in lengths in the instructions for Tamiyas own metal motor mount hop up part.
This is interesting. How can they be different lengths if the attach to the same part and to the motor on the same face? Perhaps the mold of the gearbox is different internally? I will check this out. Thank you for bringing it up.
I feel it may have been a type of counterfeit measure against chinese clone models perhaps? but if you get an original plastic or Tamiyas own metal mount,lay it peg side down on a flat surface you will see one peg is maybe 2mm longer and the gearbox must be shaped to receive it also.as my ,I want to say GPM? but it may have been a GPM copy part mount,didnt sit straight and the motor could make a creak noise if you tried to move it once it was fastened in.@@AMPROEngineering
My experience with both the TA02 & FF01 I’ve found that the steering knuckles also split and or strip (especially if a big gorilla over tightens them 😝) at the king pin screws it seems to be wear from a combination of constant disassembly/reassembly and maybe crashes.
My “must do list” (after ball bearings) definitely includes shims and O-rings etc to get rid of slop/play front & rear universals I actually prefer to use ball studs on the shock mounts (usually with a o-ring)
Not a necessity but the steering setup on the FRP chassis is so much better especially after adding 5x8 bearings back when my FF01 was new that was actually one of the first major upgrades I did. when I picked up a TA02 kit I ordered a FRP chassis kit and installed it on day 1 along with the FRP shock towers so the gearboxes and the front lower gear box cover cracking were the only thing I really experienced while racing the TA02.
I used to use ball studs in the past (so much easier) but that was when my towers were all cracking so then i was forced to go with the screw. Now, that is not the case.
hello is there a camber arm replacement for this chassis?
I suspect that means the adjustable upper link? They used to make kits but those have been gone 20+ years now. I would source Tamiya ball cups, large tamiya ball studs and some threaded rod and make your own. This is usually what I do.
I had a ff01.
I need to fix mine. The whole gear box is cracked at all the mounts.
@@AMPROEngineering you know what's interesting about the ffs they all came with ball differentials.
I use nail polish from the dollar store for a thread lock on plastic parts.
Now that is a great idea!
I already get used to the fact that some PA/ABS parts on my old Tamiya chassis may have broken...my CC01 isuzu got exactly the same cracked parts as your TA02 in this episode...
nonono they are PC/ABS parts !
Yeah they use too much PC in that blend.
@@AMPROEngineering For those new Tamiyas they put too little fibers in those nylons, and I got them over tightened unconsciously. Still can't treat them like an AXIAL!
Looking forward to see your fiat 124 familiare body for that chassis ☺️
Me too! I am going to paint that one soon!
Are doing jumps with your on road car? I have 20 tamiya on road cars and never have i broken shock towers??
Eh, well if you follow my IG you may see them get a few inches of air on a small sidewalk jump they a tree created at my neighbors house. They crack at the mounts to the chassis and the shock screw mounts. Every one I have was broken but only one of the bunch was bought new, the others were used and who knows what lives the lead before.
Hello where can i buy the central driveshaft please? have you got a link please? thk u
The vendor on ebay is gone now. I just searched there for the parts. Sorry about that!
I just love that Halvoline Mondeo, and the TA01/02 chassis is still one of my favourite Tamiya chassis along with the CCO1. Nice video man. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
Ps…..What’s the purpose of the rubber washers on the shocks?
Thank you! So that is just there to prevent the top shock mount from "wandering". The stock sleeve is longer than the thickness of the upper shock cap eyelet so it is the Tamiya way to make it stay put and still have some flex.
How did it drive with rwd? I recently got one with the lancia 037 and rwd would be very appropriate for this body.
That is also what I did on my 037. It runs great honestly. A little more slippery but I thought it was more fun.
Nice👌👌
Thank you!
IMO the most important upgrades are the strengthened prop shaft and a set of ball studs to mount the shocks. That alloy steering looks fucky, if it's anything like the one they make for the CC01 it won't last.
Even 100% stock though it's still way better than any of the TT01/TT02 chassis. Those things are vile.
No these are killer, I have had some for going on 20 years. The CC01 version...yeah...no. LOL! That one is a mess.
Does that upgraded steering work on the frp ta02 chassis? I'm trying to fit that same part on the carbon conversion kit
I do not have one but i see no obvious reason why it would not. Most things that fit the molded chassis fit the FRP also.
@@AMPROEngineering thank you
What size kp servo is that?
this is the standard Futaba 3003 servo size.
The TT01 is the worst for this. The play in the steering and the front uprights is an abomination. Thanks for addressing this.
I can imagine! I have never had one though.