Typical excellent presentation by Mike. And I agree with his comments towards the end, that "....if you're just cleaning out dovetails, this may be a little bit overkill", and that this is really a premium saw that's "beautiful to look at." For those who just love possessing top-of-the-line tools, and who have the means and inclination to pay literally 10 times what you can pay for a well made and functional coping or fret saw by other quality manufacturers, this is a dazzling tool. I have been perfectly happy with my Olsen saws and put the saved dollars to use on some nice lumber. It's all good.
On a standard coping saw, I can tweak the angle of the blade while in the middle of a cut without untensioning...just twist. On this coping saw, can I do that, or must the cam be unlocked before you change the blade angle? If so, is that a realistic thing to do in the middle of a cut?
If you want the lightest weight saw, go with the Mark 3. If you want more tension, go with the Mark 4. If you're looking for the ultimate tension in a lighter saw than the Mark 4, get the Titanium Birdcage Fret Saw. Knew Concepts describes the saws as such: The strongest, most rigid Fret Saw available on the market today! Its spine is a welded titanium beam, the blade is tensioned with a Lever that can tension blades so tight they “ping” with notes never heard before, makes turns that are tighter than ever before, and the blade clamps lock at 45° left, 0°, 45° right. Weighs only 7-1/2 ounces
Coping saws generally have larger blades + larger teeth so they cut much faster. However a fret saw is the choice for VERY detailed work - as in, that's what jewelers use to cut very intricate details. For back cuts on wood, you want a coping saw - or at least a coping saw blade.
What is the difference between a coping saw and a fret saw? Is it mainly size? Which would you recommend for making back cuts on profiled mullions and muntins?
Thanks for your question. Manufacturers will sometimes change tool prices, and we want this video to stay current for as long as possible, so we generally don't mention the prices in the video. However, as of March 31st, 2013, these saws were $149 for the coping saw and from $195-$225 for the fret saw depending on saw depth. You can always click on the product links in the video description to get our most current pricing. Thanks!
Great saws but the design of the handles is very disappointing. It looks like a cheap add-on. For the price and looking at the design of the rest of the saw I would have expected a super composite handle not a wooden one.
Why is one called coping saw and the other fret saw? They look identical to me other than the size. This design of saw has many names, coping saw, jewellers saw, which is very confusing
Fret saws and jeweler saws are the same thing and use different blades than coping saws. They use smaller blades that cut slower but can turn corners more easily. Jeweler versions only come in shallower throats whereas some woodworking fret saws come with very deep throats, even deeper than a coping saw.
I would love to try this saw, i never thought so much design would go into coping saws
Typical excellent presentation by Mike. And I agree with his comments towards the end, that "....if you're just cleaning out dovetails, this may be a little bit overkill", and that this is really a premium saw that's "beautiful to look at." For those who just love possessing top-of-the-line tools, and who have the means and inclination to pay literally 10 times what you can pay for a well made and functional coping or fret saw by other quality manufacturers, this is a dazzling tool. I have been perfectly happy with my Olsen saws and put the saved dollars to use on some nice lumber. It's all good.
Which is the best and strongest titanum or red?
I hope to be answered as soon as possible.
On a standard coping saw, I can tweak the angle of the blade while in the middle of a cut without untensioning...just twist. On this coping saw, can I do that, or must the cam be unlocked before you change the blade angle? If so, is that a realistic thing to do in the middle of a cut?
I own one of the titanium saws, works fantastic.
Can you tell me what the tension is like on the 8" titanium fret saw? I read that the new 8" mark IV provides 50-60 lbs.
If you want the lightest weight saw, go with the Mark 3. If you want more tension, go with the Mark 4. If you're looking for the ultimate tension in a lighter saw than the Mark 4, get the Titanium Birdcage Fret Saw.
Knew Concepts describes the saws as such:
The strongest, most rigid Fret Saw available on the market today! Its spine is a welded titanium beam, the blade is tensioned with a Lever that can tension blades so tight they “ping” with notes never heard before, makes turns that are tighter than ever before, and the blade clamps lock at 45° left, 0°, 45° right. Weighs only 7-1/2 ounces
Coping saws generally have larger blades + larger teeth so they cut much faster. However a fret saw is the choice for VERY detailed work - as in, that's what jewelers use to cut very intricate details. For back cuts on wood, you want a coping saw - or at least a coping saw blade.
What is the difference between a coping saw and a fret saw? Is it mainly size? Which would you recommend for making back cuts on profiled mullions and muntins?
The red one looks too big for me (I want one to make beads out of bamboo and coconut shells), but the grey one looks too short in length
Thanks for your question. Manufacturers will sometimes change tool prices, and we want this video to stay current for as long as possible, so we generally don't mention the prices in the video. However, as of March 31st, 2013, these saws were $149 for the coping saw and from $195-$225 for the fret saw depending on saw depth. You can always click on the product links in the video description to get our most current pricing. Thanks!
that's what steel rope...?
Great saws but the design of the handles is very disappointing. It looks like a cheap add-on. For the price and looking at the design of the rest of the saw I would have expected a super composite handle not a wooden one.
Why is one called coping saw and the other fret saw? They look identical to me other than the size. This design of saw has many names, coping saw, jewellers saw, which is very confusing
Fret saws and jeweler saws are the same thing and use different blades than coping saws. They use smaller blades that cut slower but can turn corners more easily. Jeweler versions only come in shallower throats whereas some woodworking fret saws come with very deep throats, even deeper than a coping saw.
I have never heard the term fret Saw before. I knew this shape of saw as jewellers saw