@@WeberAuto Thank you! I've learned so much watching your videos. My hobby is buying broken down hybirds (mostly the Second Gen Toyota Prius's) and bringing back to life and making them road ready. I donate the cars i fix to families in need. Your videos have helped tremendously in restoring the hybird systems/hybird batteries on these cars. So far i've been able to donate a total of 12 Prius's and 4 Honda Civic Hybirds to families without vehicles - thanks to your videos! You and the knowledge you share is much appreciated! Thank you!!!
As a previously BMW trained and certified HV mechanic in Europe, I really appreciate this setup, It's clearly design to be easy to De-energize the HV system.
Wow, I haven't watched in a while and now you've had an upgrade with that nice-looking polo shirt. I will most likely never have a chance to work on a car like this but it is cool to watch you dissect them.
"Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this is the Weber Auto youtube channel" Always a pleasure to hear these word, your lessons keep providing us with information so specialised it can't be found anywhere else on the Internet. Do you have plans for a full video teardown and analysis of the battery like you did with the Chevrolet bolt? I love your hours long videos with deep analysis of every component.
@@WeberAuto Oh. I do hope we get to take out a module. I'm particularly interested in the cell cooling heat sinks. I've seen a quick clip elsewhere, but not with the level of detail you are known for.
I work for Robert Mondavi winery as a mechanic and anything we work on the lockout tag out anything electrical water hydraulic pneumatic but on our giant presses that press the grapes when we have to go inside the tanks we lock out each device power air water with its own lock then depending on how many guys are working on the unit we have a main lock box and we put all those keys in there and then on that lock box we put all our personal locks on, Per OSHA requirement!
Thank you for another superb video, Professor Kelly. I always learn a few new things from every video that you upload, to which I am extremely appreciative.
A few days ago I was thinking that where the prof.John Kelly is and I said to my wife I hope my favorite best person on youtube is fine than I saw your new video . Thanks for your great explanation for especially for non-native english person like me .
It gets real fun when the dc fast charge contactors weld shut but do not set any stuck shut dtcs. Fdrs can not de-energize the hv system but ford wants me to replace the hv junction box inside the battery and ford tells me to do things to a $26,000 I don’t expect to ever do to get at least one contactor to unstick so I can remove and open the battery. Good thing it worked because next step was to get in contact with a battery engineer to walk me through how to “carefully de-energize the battery”
Keep in mind that the input side of the contactors is always live high voltage. If the contactors are stuck shut, the output side of the contactors will also have live high voltage. It is not more dangerous than working inside the battery. Just use your PPE high voltage gloves, tools, and safety glasses and follow the step-by step procedure to replace the battery junction block. My next video will show the procedure. Thanks for your feedback.
thanks John you are the reference for technical information on Electric and Hybrid cars it have been watching your videos for a long time. Soon I will take the online high voltage safety class for me to be able to work on high voltage cars in my shop because when I call Autologic they won't help me if i don't have these qualifications. and it really good to have so it's safe for me and any one around me.
This looks like a very convenient way to de-energize the HV system, but having the physical service HV disconnect like in the Bolt seems like it would be handy if you do get a contactor welded shut.
Thank you for the useful information you provide, great video keep posting and we want information about the Toyota RAV4 EV and can I increase the mileage of the charge
Drive slower, and don’t go uphill….it’s just basics….nothing mechanical or electrical you can do, but maybe if a bigger battery is available at some point.
Thank you John. I'm curious what the (rough) procedure would be if indeed the contactors are welded shut, and you find 400V on the terminals. Cover them with a wad of electrical tape and keep the linesman's gloves on as you remove the battery?
HV Connectors meet IPXXB ingress rating in the unmated condition, meaning they are by that definition fingerproof. By SAE Hv Battery Safety standard (forgot which one), do not need a manual service disconnect (for instance of both contactors are welded) if HV connectors are IPXXB rated.
That green disconnect. Have yet to see one of those (parts mgr at a Chevrolet dealership). I've seen the Volt and Bolt batteries come out, and have done my fair share of help on Bolt recalls as I'm the forklift certified person at work. I don't recall the Bolt having that green disconnect from watching our EV tech do them. If I recall correctly, the disabling procedure on the Bolt via GDS 2 essentially has the high voltage system "think" that the vehicle has been in an accident. The horn will beep for a minute or two during this time, and then this lets you then remove the battery service disconnect under the rear seat. So sounds like that green disconnect is heading towards being an industry standard? Haven't watched any of the GM Ultium training at work yet. It almost reminds me of the Ford fuel pump inertia switches which are a quick way to disable the fuel pump on those.
It’s always a pleasure to see your brilliant content, Prof. JK! 👏🏼 It’s also nice to know you’re well, and busy as ever. Any updates in your home garage, vehicle wise?
Professor Kelly. From an emergency service prospective do we 1st isolate the 12v then operate the lock tab? From my understanding of this video the lock tab is operated 1st to allow the BMS to identify that the HV is being shut down. Or if disconnecting the 12v does this also shut down the HV?
Measuring into plugs is dangerous and not recommended. Use measuring adapters for that. Edit: we had a case here with a first failure and welded relais, the guy who was measuring made accidently contact with probes between shielding and opposite potential, he was a few weeks in hospital. And there are more reasons to not do that
@@diyEVguy first failure means you have HV plus or minus potential on the chassis what normally is not the case. Than it's enough when only the opposite potential relay is welded, than you have both potentials in the plug very close to each other.
Great video! Seems like this is mostly a bunch of safety checks done by the scan tool and a software lock-out of the HV contactors. Any of the interlock connectors would prevent the contactors from closing anyway. There should be no power outside of the HV battery (i.e. the contactors are open) when the vehicle is off and not charging anyway, except in situations where it may be charging the 12V battery. Perhaps that’s the reason why they have a software lockout. It’s probably a smart choice anyway, just to give an extra layer of safety.
Now that I de-energized it… did the work I needed to do. But now that I’m done. I have ignition, but car won’t start or go into gear. I’m hoping it needs to be plugged in? Any idea? Just have 12v power right now
John, why is the HV battery to Front Inverter cable connector a grey colour and not orange?? Also, I’m curious as to how the welded contactors (D’oh!!) get de-energized 😖 Very carefully I imagine!
Only cables are required to be orange, connectors are not. Welded contactors can not be de-energized, so you just need to be careful working around their output terminals. Their input terminal are always live anyway.
If Tesla's equivalent of that Low Voltage Service Disconnect is a cut loop, then how do you do this procedure for regular service like working inside or replacing the battery? I'm assuming it isn't just to cut the loop and replace it with a new loop each time. Do they have an automated process with a connector that talks to the battery contactors like the Ford scan tool does?
The Tesla cut loop also unplugs. No automated process that I am aware of, they use the manual verification method with high voltage PPE and a CAT-III multimeter.
I am kinda surprised there is no requirement to remove the ground from the AUX battery. Guess it is required to run the scan tool for the automated process. Also strange the low voltage service disconnect is pull up to disconnect...lean hazard if not locked ??? Awesome Vid. Cheers 👍
We do not need to remove the 12V battery ground because opening the LVSD circuit accomplishes the same thing; not power to activate the contactors. Thank you! I had the same thought the first time I saw this method.
Hello professor Jhon, I am from Colombia..are you have information electric engine byd model TZX500 XSA permanent magnet synchronous motor ...Thank you
@@WeberAuto yea but I don't work at a shop that doesn't do automotive so it's just sitting in my ship collecting dust and I'm not going to pay for the license to run it on the off chance I do something on fords.
Спасибо мужик. Ты очень помог нашему Жеке! 😁👍👍👍
Thank you
Дуже дякую за відео 👍👍👍
So happy to see you are well Professor Kelly!
Thank you very much!
@@WeberAuto Thank you! I've learned so much watching your videos.
My hobby is buying broken down hybirds (mostly the Second Gen Toyota Prius's) and bringing back to life and making them road ready.
I donate the cars i fix to families in need. Your videos have helped tremendously in restoring the hybird systems/hybird batteries on these cars.
So far i've been able to donate a total of 12 Prius's and 4 Honda Civic Hybirds to families without vehicles - thanks to your videos!
You and the knowledge you share is much appreciated!
Thank you!!!
That is awesome!
As a previously BMW trained and certified HV mechanic in Europe,
I really appreciate this setup,
It's clearly design to be easy to De-energize the HV system.
Agreed! Thanks for watching
Awesome and very interesting. But that is always the case; with this Professor. In other words...."NONE FINER"! Thank you kind Sir.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Welcome back to youtube! We have been missing your videos Professor Kelly!
More to come! Thank you
2 in one week. Thank you so very much. I'll enjoy this,
Thank you!
Wow, I haven't watched in a while and now you've had an upgrade with that nice-looking polo shirt. I will most likely never have a chance to work on a car like this but it is cool to watch you dissect them.
Thank you
"Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this is the Weber Auto youtube channel"
Always a pleasure to hear these word, your lessons keep providing us with information so specialised it can't be found anywhere else on the Internet.
Do you have plans for a full video teardown and analysis of the battery like you did with the Chevrolet bolt? I love your hours long videos with deep analysis of every component.
Thank you. Partial disassembly coming soon. No time for complete disassembly
@@WeberAuto Oh. I do hope we get to take out a module. I'm particularly interested in the cell cooling heat sinks. I've seen a quick clip elsewhere, but not with the level of detail you are known for.
Really enjoy this channel. It has been very informative on both electric cars and transmissions.
Glad you like them!
I work for Robert Mondavi winery as a mechanic and anything we work on the lockout tag out anything electrical water hydraulic pneumatic but on our giant presses that press the grapes when we have to go inside the tanks we lock out each device power air water with its own lock then depending on how many guys are working on the unit we have a main lock box and we put all those keys in there and then on that lock box we put all our personal locks on, Per OSHA requirement!
Good job. Great to hear!
Thanks Prof. Kelly! Keep the great content coming.
Thank you!
Thank you for another superb video, Professor Kelly. I always learn a few new things from every video that you upload, to which I am extremely appreciative.
Thank you
Welcome back professor
Thank you!
A few days ago I was thinking that where the prof.John Kelly is and I said to my wife I hope my favorite best person on youtube is fine than I saw your new video . Thanks for your great explanation for especially for non-native english person like me .
Wow, thank you!
welcome back professor kelly 😀😃
Thank you!
This channel is awesome. I'm glad I've finally found it.
It gets real fun when the dc fast charge contactors weld shut but do not set any stuck shut dtcs. Fdrs can not de-energize the hv system but ford wants me to replace the hv junction box inside the battery and ford tells me to do things to a $26,000 I don’t expect to ever do to get at least one contactor to unstick so I can remove and open the battery. Good thing it worked because next step was to get in contact with a battery engineer to walk me through how to “carefully de-energize the battery”
Keep in mind that the input side of the contactors is always live high voltage. If the contactors are stuck shut, the output side of the contactors will also have live high voltage. It is not more dangerous than working inside the battery. Just use your PPE high voltage gloves, tools, and safety glasses and follow the step-by step procedure to replace the battery junction block. My next video will show the procedure. Thanks for your feedback.
فكرة الترجمة أكثر من رائعة
شكرا لمشاهدتك
Once again, a wonderful and informative video - up to your usual high standards.
Glad you enjoyed it!
thanks John you are the reference for technical information on Electric and Hybrid cars it have been watching your videos for a long time. Soon I will take the online high voltage safety class for me to be able to work on high voltage cars in my shop because when I call Autologic they won't help me if i don't have these qualifications. and it really good to have so it's safe for me and any one around me.
Thank you very much!
This looks like a very convenient way to de-energize the HV system, but having the physical service HV disconnect like in the Bolt seems like it would be handy if you do get a contactor welded shut.
Agreed
Thank you for the useful information you provide, great video keep posting and we want information about the Toyota RAV4 EV and can I increase the mileage of the charge
Drive slower, and don’t go uphill….it’s just basics….nothing mechanical or electrical you can do, but maybe if a bigger battery is available at some point.
Keep your tire pressures in spec too.
Check my channel for the 2012-2014 RAV4 EV
Thanks a lot for another great class
My pleasure
Great series, thank you! Even though I've got a 5VZ-FE/A343F old Toyota I really love the EV videos.
Glad you like them!
Thank you John. I'm curious what the (rough) procedure would be if indeed the contactors are welded shut, and you find 400V on the terminals. Cover them with a wad of electrical tape and keep the linesman's gloves on as you remove the battery?
Nothing special. Just keep your PPE on as you continue working.
You can try to gently tap on the battery/contactors. I have done that successfully on other types of equipment.
HV Connectors meet IPXXB ingress rating in the unmated condition, meaning they are by that definition fingerproof. By SAE Hv Battery Safety standard (forgot which one), do not need a manual service disconnect (for instance of both contactors are welded) if HV connectors are IPXXB rated.
Great video, very informative and easy to understand thank you
That green disconnect. Have yet to see one of those (parts mgr at a Chevrolet dealership). I've seen the Volt and Bolt batteries come out, and have done my fair share of help on Bolt recalls as I'm the forklift certified person at work. I don't recall the Bolt having that green disconnect from watching our EV tech do them. If I recall correctly, the disabling procedure on the Bolt via GDS 2 essentially has the high voltage system "think" that the vehicle has been in an accident. The horn will beep for a minute or two during this time, and then this lets you then remove the battery service disconnect under the rear seat.
So sounds like that green disconnect is heading towards being an industry standard? Haven't watched any of the GM Ultium training at work yet. It almost reminds me of the Ford fuel pump inertia switches which are a quick way to disable the fuel pump on those.
Wonderful video professor many thanks for keeping us updated 👋😎👋😎💥💥💥
My pleasure!!
Fantastic Mr. John
It’s always a pleasure to see your brilliant content, Prof. JK! 👏🏼
It’s also nice to know you’re well, and busy as ever.
Any updates in your home garage, vehicle wise?
Thanks! No, we still have our 2019 Bolt EV with the new battery. We are very happy with it.
@@WeberAuto That’s great to hear you’re happy with the (new!) Bolt!
I had to laugh thinking you could have changed the HV battery yourself 💪🏼
Thank you for this video professor
You are very welcome
Professor Kelly.
From an emergency service prospective do we 1st isolate the 12v then operate the lock tab?
From my understanding of this video the lock tab is operated 1st to allow the BMS to identify that the HV is being shut down. Or if disconnecting the 12v does this also shut down the HV?
Measuring into plugs is dangerous and not recommended. Use measuring adapters for that.
Edit: we had a case here with a first failure and welded relais, the guy who was measuring made accidently contact with probes between shielding and opposite potential, he was a few weeks in hospital.
And there are more reasons to not do that
That is a good point. Thanks for your feedback!
Interesting. What is a "first failure"? Were *both* contactors (relais) welded closed?
@@diyEVguy first failure means you have HV plus or minus potential on the chassis what normally is not the case. Than it's enough when only the opposite potential relay is welded, than you have both potentials in the plug very close to each other.
Great video! Seems like this is mostly a bunch of safety checks done by the scan tool and a software lock-out of the HV contactors. Any of the interlock connectors would prevent the contactors from closing anyway. There should be no power outside of the HV battery (i.e. the contactors are open) when the vehicle is off and not charging anyway, except in situations where it may be charging the 12V battery. Perhaps that’s the reason why they have a software lockout. It’s probably a smart choice anyway, just to give an extra layer of safety.
Thank you, that is correct. The contactors are normally open when the car of off. This new LVSD, is a great extra layer of protection.
@@WeberAuto never trust contactors, they might stick closed!!
@@traqnsavov822 Agreed
Now that I de-energized it… did the work I needed to do. But now that I’m done. I have ignition, but car won’t start or go into gear. I’m hoping it needs to be plugged in? Any idea? Just have 12v power right now
John, why is the HV battery to Front Inverter cable connector a grey colour and not orange??
Also, I’m curious as to how the welded contactors (D’oh!!) get de-energized 😖
Very carefully I imagine!
Only cables are required to be orange, connectors are not. Welded contactors can not be de-energized, so you just need to be careful working around their output terminals. Their input terminal are always live anyway.
If Tesla's equivalent of that Low Voltage Service Disconnect is a cut loop, then how do you do this procedure for regular service like working inside or replacing the battery? I'm assuming it isn't just to cut the loop and replace it with a new loop each time. Do they have an automated process with a connector that talks to the battery contactors like the Ford scan tool does?
The Tesla cut loop also unplugs. No automated process that I am aware of, they use the manual verification method with high voltage PPE and a CAT-III multimeter.
@@WeberAuto Okay, that makes sense! Thanks!
I am kinda surprised there is no requirement to remove the ground from the AUX battery. Guess it is required to run the scan tool for the automated process. Also strange the low voltage service disconnect is pull up to disconnect...lean hazard if not locked ??? Awesome Vid. Cheers 👍
We do not need to remove the 12V battery ground because opening the LVSD circuit accomplishes the same thing; not power to activate the contactors. Thank you! I had the same thought the first time I saw this method.
What happens if you plug a charge cable into the charge port? (While the car is in the de-energized state)
Thank you!
My pleasure, thanks Scott.
👍👍👍👍 Muchas gracias por el video, un saludo.
Thank you!
Good work
Thank you so much
Excellent job, thank you. Just doing a ev course as we speak 😅
Do you will made a video on re-powering the system ?
Yes I will after I put the battery back in the car. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@WeberAuto 🙂
thanks prof.
You are welcome
Thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for watching
Hello professor Jhon, I am from Colombia..are you have information electric engine byd model TZX500 XSA permanent magnet synchronous motor ...Thank you
Sorry, no
Just as I was getting really attached to the Manual Service Disconnect, mustang got rid of it. I also note it disrupted your collection.
Yes, thank you
why not discharge battery under 10% before service.
Because a discharged lithium-Ion battery still has 282 volts
👍✌️♥️⚡
Thank you
You gonna make it even faster professor?
LOL, no ;)
High voltage over 120kV, middle voltage 0,4...120kV, low voltage 0...0,4kV.
I feel like your microphone sound level is a little overloaded. I wish you to try to decrease recording level a little and try to listen.
Thanks for your feedback. I will adjust it
👍💖🙏
Thank you
If anyone is in the market for a vcm2, I have one I'm not using anymore due to not working for ford anymore. Let me know
They are still a great tool
@@WeberAuto yea but I don't work at a shop that doesn't do automotive so it's just sitting in my ship collecting dust and I'm not going to pay for the license to run it on the off chance I do something on fords.
can't you just run the car until it runs out of juice
No. It would still have dangerous voltage levels
@@WeberAuto ok.. capacitors right?
No. There are 96 series cell groups. Below 3V is "discharged"to 0% SoC...there's still 288V there.
Lock it out. Why would you do anything different in a class room then you would do on the job.