On my evolution that I had, I had to take off the blade guard. The mechanism for lifting the guard consisted of a small screw and a washer as a rolling guide. And that constantly fell of its radius edge that it was supposed to roll along. And that made it get stuck. So there's some shortcuts made in the design of the evo. But i bought it from UK to sweden for like 350$ equiv, and thats cheap compared to the prices in sweden. And I was really happy with the way it performed. It makes small jobs snappy compared to saw in horizontal bandsaws. And it doesn't need coolant that you have to wipe of after each cut. Coolant plus dust equals messy paste of chips that gets everywhere.
Greg's Garage don’t always blame the blade. I find that the machines are often the major problem in that regard. If the back flange of the arbor which the blade sits against isn’t straight (exactly 90 degrees to the arbor), the blade will wobble, and cut mire like a wobble dado for wood. But since metal is far harder than wood, the cut can also be at an angle. If the arbor is too small in diameter, the blade won’t be centered, and just a few teeth will actually be cutting, and will wear out quickly. If the flange that goes on before the nut is a cheap pressing, it won’t be flat, and the blade could be bent when tightened. Also if it’s too large, the blade will be dished out, and if it’s too small, the blade will be dished in. It]f you tighten it too much, it will be worse, and can actually squash that cheap pressed flange. There’s so much more to this, but that’s enough for now.
Great job on this video, I have never owned a Chop saw but I am looking to purchase one which is why I am looking for as much information as I can find. This was very helpful. Take carae.
I've had my EvoLution Rage 2 for several years and its been a solid tool and a worthwhile investment. Its heavy and ackward to move around but its built much like an industrial tool than the DeWalt, which actually has a higher retail price. The Evo is 62 lbs while the DeWalt is 47 lbs..
I think you will find the chatter marks are from the larger dia. blade. I have use a Evolutioin in the Knife Shop for years now. I bought a spare blade for it feeling it would fail quickly. I have never had to change the blade. I cut very tough and abrasive steels. ATS-34 and 154-CPM steels on it. Very impressive! KnifeMaker
My Dewalt gouged the slot where the blade goes into when it's pushed down. I don't know how. I put somebody to cut on my 2 day old saw and somehow it gouged the open slot. I used it since and I don't see how this happened but it did.
Last month I bought a brand new Evo s 355CPS saw and it has the square Acme screw for the vice. It's a great investment at only £220 delivered. I like your review but to be fair to the DeWalt you should have used the same blade across both machines so the results would have been based off one blade doing both cuts.
You cut the bar on the Y axis and measured across the Z axis - the measurement with the indicator should of followed the cut (Y axis) as clamping in the mills vice, the extra parallel edge could certainly skew results. Both cuts should of been made with the same blade to. Other than that, overall a useful quick comparison. Both cuts are well within 'good' for this type of saw.
Great comparison. The evo does have a more solid deck. The thread damage and the fact that it comes with spare brushes is scary. I still love my Dewalt!
You should swap the blades to see if they have any impact on the quality and trueness of the cuts to rule that variable out of the equation during your testing.
As someone who has been doing metalworking for over 50 years, I’ve come across a lot of good, and bad, things about equipment. But in evaluating the thicknesses of parts, you have to keep in mind the difference in material. For aluminum, which the Evolution saw is made of, you need approximately three times the thickness to get the same strength, or rigidity. I’m certainly not saying that the DeWalt is better. That saw there seems knocked about, which isn’t that unusual for equipment in a professional environment. Secondly, when measuring runout, you REALLY need to measure it near the outer circumference of the blade, not near the middle. All blades, no matter how good, are dished slightly, and the big difference is at the edge, where sometimes, the brazing on of the teeth slightly warps the blade body. In addition, all blades have a slight wobble, a couple of thousands on a 14” blade is pretty good. Also, the arbor has some wobble, which should not be more than about 2 thou. But when combined, the total could be 4 though, on a good product. I’ve got a way of fixing g most of that. I mark the blade at 90 degrees around. I mark the arbor at one point, and align one mark. I then tighten it correctly, and manually spin it around, being careful not to push the blade to the side. I move the blade through all of the marks, and measure. One of them will show less wobble, and one will show more. I mark which mark, or even between two, that shows the least wobble, and always mount the blade with that mark aligned with the mark on the arbor. That takes most of the wobble (or runout) out of the cut. I hope that was useful.
Mel Gross the evo saw made out of alumnium (not aluminum cmon)? You must be kidding. The base and the vise of the Raptor are cast iron made. I have 1 and I know; infact It weights something like 28 kg.
My saw is 50 pounds, and is cast aluminum.. the vise is steel. Metal is heavy, no matter what it is. If the saw base was cast iron, it would weigh even more. Maybe your vise is cast iron, and you’re assuming the base is too.
Right up til the end where you noticed the buggered up threads, I was liking the evo but not after seeing those buggered threads. That indicates soft steel, not a high carbon hardened threaded rod like it should be. I bought a beat to hell ridgid saw that looks for all the work like an exact copy the the evo, or maybe it was made by evo for ridgid, who knows. Any way it has thread that look exactly like the evo but there is no quick release system. You just wind it in and out like the dewalt. I bought that saw for less then the cost of a new evo blade and the right angle gearbox on the ridgid saw is shot and screams. But even with an old blade with a tooth missing, she cuts steel like butter. I do heap lots of cutting oil on the old blade while cutting with it. When that old say blows up I will probably buy and evo but maybe not after seeing those buggered up threads right at the end. You should have contacted evo about that and then included their response in the video. No serious DIY home shop dude like me, and ex machinist who has a full machine shop in my garage is going to want that evo after seeing those damaged threads. As i said before that should have been a high carbon hardened threaded rod, not soft easily damaged threaded clamp rod like that. bummer....
I have seen other reviews of the evolution saw. And they clearly showed that when you clamp something to be cut on the saw, the base of the saw buckles upward. Lots of flex and twist. Maybe it was a different model evolution saw?
I see where you've dropped steel on the DeWalt table due to distortion in the steel. If you want to do this fairly then you get two new machines and then judge, clearly yours has some heavy use.
Just a heads up. Not sure what's going on with your threads but mine have held up so far. Knocking on wood lol. Real curious as to what is causing that on your saw.
You make good reviews but i feel you should have used Brand new blades in both saws. Same brand blades and i feel like that would have proved more accurate of a comparison of both Saws. I cant tell if your dewalt was cutting slower because of an older, duller blade? or because the saw just cuts slower? So i Kind of feel like the Results are inconclusive.
The age of the saw matters also. I mean the dewalt is clearly beat up quite a bit more. Apples to apples comparison would be both being new and both using the same blades.
The threading on the clamping bolt is what concerns me. I do hope evolution saw your video and went about the process of changing the design. $380 bucks may not be a lot for what the Evolution can do, but what good is it if the threading is gone after a few uses ?
I take my Dewalt on the road, it's heavy enough..... Ive dropped mine a few times.... Its durable. Im sure that EVO is pretty heavey too. Have had my Dewalt over two years +/- and it still cuts precisely...... Maybe three blades since Ive owned it........ Alot of wrought iron including stainless
Used chop saw with abrasive blades for years works great! These new saws good for quick small metal cutting. Clean precise for welding. Swivel bandsaw better option for wider range of cutting heavier steel tubing.
Nice comparison. Looks like too much cranking on both clamps. No doubt the evo had a softer rod but i have used mine for years without a mark on it but i dont crank down nearly as tight as in the video.
We have an evolution at work and it is a great saw, but I have found the same issues with the screw clamp. I find the one on my personal milwaukee saw to be much better.
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra it galled up day one in one spot like yours, it hasn't talked again in the couple months we've had it, but it binds up on a regular basis. The only dislike I can come up with.
Great video thankyou! I have tick metal plate thickness is about 100mm, and I want to cut it 3mm narrow (like slice) - do you think it is possible? How narrow can I cut with this machine?
When you cut the bar you flipped it, changing the reference edge. When you measured it you maintained one reference edge. Unless you had milled both edges before the test, I would expect the result you got.
I haven't used one of these saws ...yet....but I'm 73 and every decent 'C' clamp I've ever used or seen in stores has a buttress or acme thread...like gear pullers...the standard 60 degree threads aren't designed for this application...but they are cheap... Actually not just 'C' clamps...but pretty much any type of clamp...metal working or wood-working...buttress or acme...you can really lean on them... The cast-iron tables on these saws seem stiffer and better...but I've owned and used several saws with stamped steel frames....they work fine if you don't bend them...or clamp them down on something un-even....and....most chop saws leave a small 'gap' under the drop side of the piece you're cutting so it falls away and doesn't jam the blade and damage it... I've cut 1,000's of pieces of material daily on chop saws (Aluminum and Steel)...if you want to get a nice cut, the better saws will not have that gap under the 'drop'...but you have to clamp both sides of the blade...otherwise you can find yourself with a bad cut on your hand or leg from that drop flying off....cutting many 5"-6" pieces from 20 foot long material....
Nope, you got that the wrong way around. An Acme screw thread is square to enhance clamping force. It is far and away stronger. Proof of that can be found in every good quality vice from a basic mechancis bench vice right up to high end machine vice. Fine threads or sharp peaked threads a similar or identical to bolts and can be stripped easily. Go check any vice, don't take my word for it.
Have had both saws for some time. The Evo hands down is the better saw. Cuts faster and more accurately. The tread on the Evo saw clamp is standard vs the DW Acme tread but with the standard fine tread on the Evo you don't need to tighten with as much torque on the handle to get the same clamping force. After two years of using the Evo the clamping screw is still fine on our saw. When we changed blades on the Evo to a better quality blade the cut smoothness improved to that equal to the DeWalt. At our shop the Evo is the everyday saw and DeWalt was sold on Craigslist years ago.
I too have the Evosaw 380 and while it's pretty good for the money, I'm a perfectionist and I was hoping for a little better quality going by all the hype on the Evosaw !!😏
You are comparing a rotten apple to a fresh apple. The dewalt has seen abuse, not to mention a very well used blade. You can not compare a brand new saw to a old used saw
Wayne Smith well it can be better depends on what are your requirements and keeping both are samw segments car and same or closer engine type say a 2litre inline 4. Ofcourse new one will be smoother and since its new it has new tyres whereas your 20 years one is still on some 4 years old tyres that have turned hard now and lost most of its tread and you tend to loose grip.
Very thorough review, kind of disappointing that Evolution would make such a nice machine, then cheap out on the threads, I hope they fix that. nice work on the review.
The Raptor saw I have didn't come with the interrupted thread tightening, it's the first model and still going strong, after 9 years DIY use. It also still cuts square no problem, with none of the 'chatter' effect shown in this video. I don't think he had it set up right.
So far, how much thickness, in and out of print does that brand coating add to the saw blades? The DeWalt's at the point of contact and is not deep in and out of paint craters and hills. The Evolution is obviously. The needle was moving. The previous point about the quality of the cuts will have been informative, however. Old vs new blade, bad comparison. Blade break-in helpful, at least with paint removal? It's the base you mentioned earlier as the culprit for the significant consistent deviation in one direction.
I think you should have put the indicator on the edge of the blade on the evolution you had the indicator on the paint which makes up for a thou or two. I used to metal hand scrape so I know the tolerance of a thousandth. Anyways perfect review this is how it is done!
thanks - yep that screw thread on the Evo's clamp rod is a bummer - thanks for pointing that out. I will be on the lookout for hard shouldered screw threads on whatever I aim for As for the other key features you pointed out - many thanks. I'll now also be on the look out for things such as the quality of the support gussets for the fence not to mention a thicker fence itself and clamp. Seems that the Evo wins hands down with its cast iron. Thanks for also pointing out the importance of a flat base. That cast iron base on the Evo wins again. That bow in the DeWalt thin metal base that causes rocking is fault for sure. Also like the way you pointed out the built waste for cut material collector on the Evo which was lacking on the DeWalt. I'll be interested to see if Evo has upgraded the clamp rod. Did you ever get any feedback? You also pointed out that the Evo supplies brushes. I wonder, has anyone compared the motors I wonder e.g bearings? So in summary things to look out for are. Is there anything else? For instance, I was wondering about the virtues of a quick release of the fence supports to change the cutting angle. Any advice? - Thickness of base (including flatness), thickness of the clamp, the fence and its gusset supports - The hardness and flat shoulders of the screw thread clamp rod - The presence of a waste collector
I bought the Dewalt model before I saw this video. After it showed up I unboxed it and tried to mount a piece of square stock for a test cut. Just like in your video, the table is uneven so it's impossible to tell what surface is square to the blade. I boxed it back up without cutting and just returned it. Until this purchase, I unquestioningly thought DeWalt was high quality. Not anymore.
Evolution gave him the saw, I thought the review would only cover points that Evolution would win. But I watched the video anyway. My thoughts are that the clamp screw is stuffed already and at a guess, the motor will burn out before the Dewalt .
I have an Evolution and am fairly happy with it, but use my horizontal bandsaw far more frequently. John Saunders, nyccnc on youtube, makes a base for the Dewalts that seems like a huge upgrade....but of course that makes a fairly expensive saw super expensive. I almost always cut my material the way you did, but have seen a lot of others cut material the opposite way (flat horizontal) and that seems like a recipe for excessive heat in the blade and excessive wear on the blade. The same is true on horizontal bandsaws. Nobody would cut a piece of 3/4" x 4" material on a vertical badsaw with the 4" vertical, so why would anyone do so on a chop saw or horizontal bandsaw? I feel like I must be missing something, but maybe we are doing it right and most others are doing it wrong :-).
Agree with all your points on the horizontal bandsaw, I use mine most often as well, but a lot of home garage guys don't have one and this is a good solution
Good review. I was happy to see the comparisons as I am wanting to upgrade from my abrasive chop saw.
On my evolution that I had, I had to take off the blade guard. The mechanism for lifting the guard consisted of a small screw and a washer as a rolling guide. And that constantly fell of its radius edge that it was supposed to roll along. And that made it get stuck. So there's some shortcuts made in the design of the evo. But i bought it from UK to sweden for like 350$ equiv, and thats cheap compared to the prices in sweden. And I was really happy with the way it performed. It makes small jobs snappy compared to saw in horizontal bandsaws. And it doesn't need coolant that you have to wipe of after each cut. Coolant plus dust equals messy paste of chips that gets everywhere.
Good man!! The exact video I've been waiting for! 😁
Really fair unbiased review Gary. Seems like a winner to me just because of what you said about the deck.
Jerry's This and That ii
Been using an EVO for a few months now. Uneven cuts seem to be normal. I believe its their blades. Dispite that, I love the saw.
Greg's Garage don’t always blame the blade. I find that the machines are often the major problem in that regard. If the back flange of the arbor which the blade sits against isn’t straight (exactly 90 degrees to the arbor), the blade will wobble, and cut mire like a wobble dado for wood. But since metal is far harder than wood, the cut can also be at an angle. If the arbor is too small in diameter, the blade won’t be centered, and just a few teeth will actually be cutting, and will wear out quickly. If the flange that goes on before the nut is a cheap pressing, it won’t be flat, and the blade could be bent when tightened. Also if it’s too large, the blade will be dished out, and if it’s too small, the blade will be dished in. It]f you tighten it too much, it will be worse, and can actually squash that cheap pressed flange.
There’s so much more to this, but that’s enough for now.
Great job on this video, I have never owned a Chop saw but I am looking to purchase one which is why I am looking for as much information as I can find. This was very helpful. Take carae.
Thanks for all the info, beautiful video !
Good information Gary. Thanks!
Another great video Gary. Thank you. Interesting content. Be safe and God bless you!!!!
GOOD Review ,helped me ALOT on the price/better over all saw,thank u for the video gary
Hey Thommy, glad it was of use. Really both saws will do the job just fine.
Pitch on the blade and design of the carbide teeth is what changes the surface finish 👍 Awesome video!
Excellent presentation...Gary does a great job
I've had my EvoLution Rage 2 for several years and its been a solid tool and a worthwhile investment.
Its heavy and ackward to move around but its built much like an industrial tool than the DeWalt, which actually has a higher retail price. The Evo is 62 lbs while the DeWalt is 47 lbs..
Excellent video Gary. Valuable information. Take care. Doug
Fantastic review, very informative. Thanks sir.
Great comparison was very helpful! You do great comparisons must do other tools as well. Many thanks.
Interesting comparison. One of my points of interest was the height of the fences.
Thank you Gary for the plug. I truly appreciate it.
Just ordered the Evolution from Amazon, I have the little one but like the Bigger one.
Very informative review Gary.
thank you sir
I think you will find the chatter marks are from the larger dia. blade. I have use a Evolutioin in the Knife Shop for years now. I bought a spare blade for it feeling it would fail quickly. I have never had to change the blade. I cut very tough and abrasive steels. ATS-34 and 154-CPM steels on it. Very impressive!
KnifeMaker
how is the Dewalt on cutting stainless steel pipe like 3" exhaust 16 gauge?
Is there any way or means that you could see or find to tram the Evo into square?
Thank you for doing a real review and not just an advertisement.
Good job ! Thank . You are the man.
My Dewalt gouged the slot where the blade goes into when it's pushed down. I don't know how. I put somebody to cut on my 2 day old saw and somehow it gouged the open slot. I used it since and I don't see how this happened but it did.
Your video was very informative. Science behind the machine great vid
I'm lucky that nothing I do has to be that precise! I would have no trouble using either saw!!
Hi. how many cuts will the blade last? I think about something like 50x50x2 mm square tubing.
You can adjust your saw to cut square. Adjust both vertical and horizontal.
Last month I bought a brand new Evo s 355CPS saw and it has the square Acme screw for the vice. It's a great investment at only £220 delivered.
I like your review but to be fair to the DeWalt you should have used the same blade across both machines so the results would have been based off one blade doing both cuts.
Have had them both. For my money, I prefer the evolution. However they are both good saws especially if used after using a cutoff saw
Which blade last longer and are they exactly the same surface feet, and tooth count?
Show the different in the miter clamp. thanks
You cut the bar on the Y axis and measured across the Z axis - the measurement with the indicator should of followed the cut (Y axis) as clamping in the mills vice, the extra parallel edge could certainly skew results. Both cuts should of been made with the same blade to. Other than that, overall a useful quick comparison. Both cuts are well within 'good' for this type of saw.
Great comparison. The evo does have a more solid deck. The thread damage and the fact that it comes with spare brushes is scary. I still love my Dewalt!
You should swap the blades to see if they have any impact on the quality and trueness of the cuts to rule that variable out of the equation during your testing.
As someone who has been doing metalworking for over 50 years, I’ve come across a lot of good, and bad, things about equipment. But in evaluating the thicknesses of parts, you have to keep in mind the difference in material. For aluminum, which the Evolution saw is made of, you need approximately three times the thickness to get the same strength, or rigidity. I’m certainly not saying that the DeWalt is better. That saw there seems knocked about, which isn’t that unusual for equipment in a professional environment.
Secondly, when measuring runout, you REALLY need to measure it near the outer circumference of the blade, not near the middle. All blades, no matter how good, are dished slightly, and the big difference is at the edge, where sometimes, the brazing on of the teeth slightly warps the blade body. In addition, all blades have a slight wobble, a couple of thousands on a 14” blade is pretty good. Also, the arbor has some wobble, which should not be more than about 2 thou. But when combined, the total could be 4 though, on a good product.
I’ve got a way of fixing g most of that. I mark the blade at 90 degrees around. I mark the arbor at one point, and align one mark. I then tighten it correctly, and manually spin it around, being careful not to push the blade to the side. I move the blade through all of the marks, and measure. One of them will show less wobble, and one will show more. I mark which mark, or even between two, that shows the least wobble, and always mount the blade with that mark aligned with the mark on the arbor. That takes most of the wobble (or runout) out of the cut.
I hope that was useful.
Mel Gross the evo saw made out of alumnium (not aluminum cmon)? You must be kidding. The base and the vise of the Raptor are cast iron made. I have 1 and I know; infact It weights something like 28 kg.
My saw is 50 pounds, and is cast aluminum.. the vise is steel. Metal is heavy, no matter what it is. If the saw base was cast iron, it would weigh even more. Maybe your vise is cast iron, and you’re assuming the base is too.
The evo base is aluminium with a ferrous insert, probably mild steel.
Does it have any blade to cut wood with these saw
Right up til the end where you noticed the buggered up threads, I was liking the evo but not after seeing those buggered threads. That indicates soft steel, not a high carbon hardened threaded rod like it should be. I bought a beat to hell ridgid saw that looks for all the work like an exact copy the the evo, or maybe it was made by evo for ridgid, who knows. Any way it has thread that look exactly like the evo but there is no quick release system. You just wind it in and out like the dewalt. I bought that saw for less then the cost of a new evo blade and the right angle gearbox on the ridgid saw is shot and screams. But even with an old blade with a tooth missing, she cuts steel like butter. I do heap lots of cutting oil on the old blade while cutting with it. When that old say blows up I will probably buy and evo but maybe not after seeing those buggered up threads right at the end. You should have contacted evo about that and then included their response in the video. No serious DIY home shop dude like me, and ex machinist who has a full machine shop in my garage is going to want that evo after seeing those damaged threads. As i said before that should have been a high carbon hardened threaded rod, not soft easily damaged threaded clamp rod like that. bummer....
All thread replacement that big an issue for you?
The problem I had with my Dewalt was that cheap vice would not stay in the right place when cutting. It would move a little bit when cutting 45's.
I have seen other reviews of the evolution saw. And they clearly showed that when you clamp something to be cut on the saw, the base of the saw buckles upward. Lots of flex and twist. Maybe it was a different model evolution saw?
I see where you've dropped steel on the DeWalt table due to distortion in the steel. If you want to do this fairly then you get two new machines and then judge, clearly yours has some heavy use.
I agree...
How many tooth blade are you using on the DeWalt
No matter how much better the saw is in general it doesn't matter if the screw gets screwed up after one use. Crazy
Yes, and the second time I used it, it bound up in the same way in a different spot and did something similar.
Wait, did I lose a sale by showing the screw issue ?
no, price just went way down lol
Just a heads up. Not sure what's going on with your threads but mine have held up so far. Knocking on wood lol. Real curious as to what is causing that on your saw.
That's odd about the screw. I've been using mine for about 4-5 years, daily use, and the screw is still in great shape.
Hello! What is the price of the Dewalt DW872? What is the maximum rotation of the disc?
The cutting discs are interchangeable, between brands? I have the impression that the Dewalts are more durable.
I've been on the fence about which one of these saws to get. They both have been sitting in my amazon wishlist for a while now.
Long live Nikola Tesla
You make good reviews but i feel you should have used Brand new blades in both saws. Same brand blades and i feel like that would have proved more accurate of a comparison of both Saws. I cant tell if your dewalt was cutting slower because of an older, duller blade? or because the saw just cuts slower? So i Kind of feel like the Results are inconclusive.
The age of the saw matters also. I mean the dewalt is clearly beat up quite a bit more. Apples to apples comparison would be both being new and both using the same blades.
yeah it kind of invalidates the test but the reviewer is so inarticulate it was pretty unclear which saw he was talking about in many instances anyhow
The threading on the clamping bolt is what concerns me. I do hope evolution saw your video and went about the process of changing the design. $380 bucks may not be a lot for what the Evolution can do, but what good is it if the threading is gone after a few uses ?
What is the lever behind the left side of the fence on the DeWalt?
MAESTRO TENES ALGUNA PAGINA DONDE PUEDO C9NSEGUOR ESA MAQUINA MARCA EVOLUTION POR FAVOR GRACIAS
I take my Dewalt on the road, it's heavy enough..... Ive dropped mine a few times.... Its durable. Im sure that EVO is pretty heavey too. Have had my Dewalt over two years +/- and it still cuts precisely...... Maybe three blades since Ive owned it........ Alot of wrought iron including stainless
17:58 sec. What's that's strange sound when Evo. Almost stopped ?
how true and square is this saw?
Used chop saw with abrasive blades for years works great! These new saws good for quick small metal cutting. Clean precise for welding.
Swivel bandsaw better option for wider range of cutting heavier steel tubing.
How can you expect a used blade to cut with the same accuracy of a new blade?
O observația cat se poate de corecta! 😉
The fine thread enables more clamping force acme thread is stronger but by hand you can apply more force with fine thread
I'm new to these saws. Can you use the cutting blade and abrasive blade on the same machine?
No both machines run and differnt rpms
I've been using Evolution blades for years. They last a lot longer when you oil them before you cut! The evolution saw is the best saw ever made👍
dood ... what a review, this is what I am talking about, legit metrics.
Super EVOLUTION machine. A great review. Super movie. Super lajk. greetings
Nice comparison. Looks like too much cranking on both clamps. No doubt the evo had a softer rod but i have used mine for years without a mark on it but i dont crank down nearly as tight as in the video.
We have an evolution at work and it is a great saw, but I have found the same issues with the screw clamp. I find the one on my personal milwaukee saw to be much better.
Interesting about the one at work. I used this one more today and had the screw bind up a couple of times.
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra it galled up day one in one spot like yours, it hasn't talked again in the couple months we've had it, but it binds up on a regular basis. The only dislike I can come up with.
David DeMoise
كم ثمنها بالدولار ؟
Great review, I guess the 60 degree V thread gives you more clamping force than the acme
Great video thankyou! I have tick metal plate thickness is about 100mm, and I want to cut it 3mm narrow (like slice) - do you think it is possible? How narrow can I cut with this machine?
Yes i think so. I would prob cut 4mm slice, and then grind/sand it down to your final size
This is what happens when a Machinist reviews a Welders tool.
Does is cut metal Well? Yes...
Should you buy one? Yes...
Was it worth the money? Yes...
For the price of the Evo you can get a Trajan Q1400 which is a real Industrial saw, it is what the new Evo was modeled after.
TrajanQ1400
When you cut the bar you flipped it, changing the reference edge. When you measured it you maintained one reference edge. Unless you had milled both edges before the test, I would expect the result you got.
I haven't used one of these saws ...yet....but I'm 73 and every decent 'C' clamp I've ever used or seen in stores has a buttress or acme thread...like gear pullers...the standard 60 degree threads aren't designed for this application...but they are cheap...
Actually not just 'C' clamps...but pretty much any type of clamp...metal working or wood-working...buttress or acme...you can really lean on them...
The cast-iron tables on these saws seem stiffer and better...but I've owned and used several saws with stamped steel frames....they work fine if you don't bend them...or clamp them down on something un-even....and....most chop saws leave a small 'gap' under the drop side of the piece you're cutting so it falls away and doesn't jam the blade and damage it...
I've cut 1,000's of pieces of material daily on chop saws (Aluminum and Steel)...if you want to get a nice cut, the better saws will not have that gap under the 'drop'...but you have to clamp both sides of the blade...otherwise you can find yourself with a bad cut on your hand or leg from that drop flying off....cutting many 5"-6" pieces from 20 foot long material....
The acme thread on the dewalt won't hold as tight as the fine threaded vise of the evolution. Acme just moves faster
Nope, you got that the wrong way around. An Acme screw thread is square to enhance clamping force. It is far and away stronger. Proof of that can be found in every good quality vice from a basic mechancis bench vice right up to high end machine vice. Fine threads or sharp peaked threads a similar or identical to bolts and can be stripped easily. Go check any vice, don't take my word for it.
Have had both saws for some time.
The Evo hands down is the better saw. Cuts faster and more accurately.
The tread on the Evo saw clamp is standard vs the DW Acme tread but with the standard fine tread on the Evo you don't need to tighten with as much torque on the handle to get the same clamping force. After two years of using the Evo the clamping screw is still fine on our saw.
When we changed blades on the Evo to a better quality blade the cut smoothness improved to that equal to the DeWalt.
At our shop the Evo is the everyday saw and DeWalt was sold on Craigslist years ago.
Some great points, appreciate the info on the screw.
What blades do you recommend?
كيف نحصل على هالمكنة او رقم الشركة المصنعه
I too have the Evosaw 380 and while it's pretty good for the money, I'm a perfectionist and I was hoping for a little better quality going by all the hype on the Evosaw !!😏
Randy Newton Sr use a better blade. Evo blades are strange.. They chop and slide.. all bumpy cuts.
Will this type of saw work on stainless and brass. I use my bandsaw on aluminum.
Brass, yes, its a free machining material, Stainles, no, the blade turns too fast and it will dull it very quickly
What does chop saw imply??????
Great comparison i hope you compare the out put of the electric motors in future videos as thats a huge point of conversation
The rough cut could be in the blade and not the saw right ?
Great job, but all blades have a run out which doesn't relate to the power source.
Don't you just love to watch guys unbox stuff?
@@Karlheuken 1
Good video. It kept me from purchasing evolution saw.
How much cost machine & cutting blade
What do you think about the aweful sound of the Evo slowing to a stop after the cut?
Ben B And he did not say nothing about that sound sounded like gears grinding
Roll tide! Thanks for the comparison!
You are comparing a rotten apple to a fresh apple. The dewalt has seen abuse, not to mention a very well used blade. You can not compare a brand new saw to a old used saw
De
Brb, gonna go buy a new car and compare it to my 20 year old car, I don't think the new car will be better than my 20 year old one though...
😃
Wayne Smith well it can be better depends on what are your requirements and keeping both are samw segments car and same or closer engine type say a 2litre inline 4.
Ofcourse new one will be smoother and since its new it has new tyres whereas your 20 years one is still on some 4 years old tyres that have turned hard now and lost most of its tread and you tend to loose grip.
Dewalt chop saw tables are not flat. The abrasive saw is the same as this one
Very thorough review, kind of disappointing that Evolution would make such a nice machine, then cheap out on the threads, I hope they fix that. nice work on the review.
The Raptor saw I have didn't come with the interrupted thread tightening, it's the first model and still going strong, after 9 years DIY use. It also still cuts square no problem, with none of the 'chatter' effect shown in this video. I don't think he had it set up right.
That V block is also good for setting block/suqare to put a point upwards to save the teeth on the blades.
I have an Evo rage and it’s going 10 years strong.
What blades?? Because no fool would use their trash blades and be happy
You should do both new machines .
So far, how much thickness, in and out of print does that brand coating add to the saw blades? The DeWalt's at the point of contact and is not deep in and out of paint craters and hills. The Evolution is obviously. The needle was moving. The previous point about the quality of the cuts will have been informative, however. Old vs new blade, bad comparison. Blade break-in helpful, at least with paint removal? It's the base you mentioned earlier as the culprit for the significant consistent deviation in one direction.
I think you should have put the indicator on the edge of the blade on the evolution you had the indicator on the paint which makes up for a thou or two. I used to metal hand scrape so I know the tolerance of a thousandth. Anyways perfect review this is how it is done!
I think there s was a short review in there- between all the UA-cam adverts.......
Drag the red dot to the end of video. Then drag it back and watch video with no commercials.
thanks - yep that screw thread on the Evo's clamp rod is a bummer - thanks for pointing that out. I will be on the lookout for hard shouldered screw threads on whatever I aim for
As for the other key features you pointed out - many thanks. I'll now also be on the look out for things such as the quality of the support gussets for the fence not to mention a thicker fence itself and clamp. Seems that the Evo wins hands down with its cast iron. Thanks for also pointing out the importance of a flat base. That cast iron base on the Evo wins again. That bow in the DeWalt thin metal base that causes rocking is fault for sure.
Also like the way you pointed out the built waste for cut material collector on the Evo which was lacking on the DeWalt.
I'll be interested to see if Evo has upgraded the clamp rod. Did you ever get any feedback?
You also pointed out that the Evo supplies brushes. I wonder, has anyone compared the motors I wonder e.g bearings?
So in summary things to look out for are. Is there anything else? For instance, I was wondering about the virtues of a quick release of the fence supports to change the cutting angle. Any advice?
- Thickness of base (including flatness), thickness of the clamp, the fence and its gusset supports
- The hardness and flat shoulders of the screw thread clamp rod
- The presence of a waste collector
Is the dewalt base not flat because you have it bolted down in all 4 corners to something that isn’t flat, effectively twisting it?
the 4 corners its bolted to is floating and will adjust to the base rather than the opposite
I bought the Dewalt model before I saw this video. After it showed up I unboxed it and tried to mount a piece of square stock for a test cut. Just like in your video, the table is uneven so it's impossible to tell what surface is square to the blade. I boxed it back up without cutting and just returned it. Until this purchase, I unquestioningly thought DeWalt was high quality. Not anymore.
Best review I’ve seen on these saws
Thanks
Evolution cut of saw is outstanding and way way far better than all cut off saw I've came across with.very good machine trust me.
Evolution gave him the saw, I thought the review would only cover points that Evolution would win. But I watched the video anyway. My thoughts are that the clamp screw is stuffed already and at a guess, the motor will burn out before the Dewalt .
I have an Evolution and am fairly happy with it, but use my horizontal bandsaw far more frequently. John Saunders, nyccnc on youtube, makes a base for the Dewalts that seems like a huge upgrade....but of course that makes a fairly expensive saw super expensive.
I almost always cut my material the way you did, but have seen a lot of others cut material the opposite way (flat horizontal) and that seems like a recipe for excessive heat in the blade and excessive wear on the blade. The same is true on horizontal bandsaws. Nobody would cut a piece of 3/4" x 4" material on a vertical badsaw with the 4" vertical, so why would anyone do so on a chop saw or horizontal bandsaw? I feel like I must be missing something, but maybe we are doing it right and most others are doing it wrong :-).
Agree with all your points on the horizontal bandsaw, I use mine most often as well, but a lot of home garage guys don't have one and this is a good solution
Totally agree, I started with a drill press and Evolution chop saw in my apartment.
I want to purchase this machine and it's blade
i know after some good use most metal cutting saws will trip a 15 amp barker.