FIRST! Great pin spanner. The end mill reset was very clever. For the custom size pins, you could always turn up your 10.3mm pins first (you need them anyway?) and use them for your measurement. Great editing as usual. Cheers, Craig
Cheers Craig Yeah, I considered making 10.3 mm pins, but my next size stock was considerably larger. This arrangement turned out to be quite a nice fit
@@TomMakeHere Yep a nice fit is all that matters. It came out well. When you cracked it loose, I thought we were gonna see you get soaked in hydraulic fluid for a moment. :-)
@Craig's Workshop Thankfully it went exactly as I expected! That being said, I topped up my engine hoist a couple of months ago, turns out the plug is only held in by about half a thread. It went everywhere!
looks like that'll defenitely work a treat, lol. I was more worried about the welding destroying the loctite bond, but it looks like it survived easily enough, lol.
D'accord. J'ai entendu que ça n'avait pas d'importance. Si vous utilisez suffisamment de levier pour endommager quelque chose, votre clé est trop petite
Thanks for watching Fred. Yes I was aware that there could be some pressure, not sure if it came across in video, but I made sure to stay clear of the threaded plug in case it or oil came shooting out I also suspected that with almost no oil reserve, not much could actually happen. But you are right, next time I'll drain it first
I had a similar height reach problem with my mills. Stub Drills are your friend. Difficult to find to buy, so I resorted to cutting off a standard jobber drills and sharpening them. I very rarely use full length drills now.
Nice video, I always like shop made tools! But it's not that suprising that you had to use a lot of force to get it off. I ran the numbers and the seal looks to be around 100mm, with only 5 bars pressure at that diameter you would get about 400kg of weight on those threads. And it might be a lot higher pressure, we fill the accumulators at work with 50-60 bars of nitrogen. Regardless, nice build and keep up the good work!
Is that actually a thing? I heard that it really doesn't matter and if you are putting enough force to damage something you should be using a bigger one anyway
@@TomMakeHere Has to do with rounding the nut and also it is hard on the wrench. It's what I was taught. I did some searching on the tube and looks like most use it this way. I try to never use one but sometimes it's the only tool that fits.
Gday Tommy, i see what you mean about the height factor of the mill, wouldn’t be hard to get into trouble at all. Nice save with the vice, quick reset on the the go again, top video mate, take care, Matty
That was cool, I too enjoy those projects where you get to bring your work stuff home and your "hobby" bails them out! That was one tight accumulator plate!
@@TomMakeHere I know right! I didn't bother to look for a lathe until I had my sights on a mill. To me they are a matched set like set n pepper shakers lol
I've welded a generic 1" impact sockets into parts like that, which seems to go down well with mechanics. The 1", or 1/2" drive gives you a good few solid options to put a breaker bar, or impact driver onto it. I liked your use of 4140 rod as dowel pins, but the loctite is rated for 0.1 to 0.2 mm clearance, it grips better, I think in a plain drilled hole, if true position of the pins is unimportant. Stamping your name, or the pcd, and ID size would have been a nice touch to finish the tool. It'll get chucked into the bottom of someone's toolbox, and by the time they pull it out again, they'll never remember what it was meant to fit. It turned out a good, quick solution to the problem, and looked the part at the end of the day.
Thanks for comment Yeah a socket would have been a great method. I might do that next time I agree the locktite clearance isn't ideal, in hindsight maybe I should have relieved the centre of the pins so it grips there, but the ends are close fitting to get good alignment Thanks for watching
@@TomMakeHere Never thought about relieving the centre of the pins! I'm going to steal that one for when I need it! Great idea, it'd only need a few hundredths relieved on the bench grinder, or hard turned. I've always found that pin spanner holes are never that tightly toleranced, they're always meant to be a bit sloppy on the spanner. I've never come across a regular drawing with a true position callout, or tight tolerance on diameter for a pin spanner hole, high end down hole oil tools are a different kettle of fish though. The best thing about sockets though is that they're mostly 4140, or 4130, so nice to weld onto, and easy to modify to suit, like chopping them down. I learned the socket trick from one of Bruce Whitman's videos. My instagram's matthew.gowan.5
Great adaption, yes moisture on Cyanoacrylate speeds up its setting, it was designed for use on human tissue. Great vlog, thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK. John
Crazy thing is our maintenance shop doesn't have a lathe! I wanted to make the pins simple. It should be easy to reloctite them if they require replacement. I did consider a set screw on each pin as an alternative
FIRST! Great pin spanner. The end mill reset was very clever. For the custom size pins, you could always turn up your 10.3mm pins first (you need them anyway?) and use them for your measurement. Great editing as usual. Cheers, Craig
Cheers Craig
Yeah, I considered making 10.3 mm pins, but my next size stock was considerably larger. This arrangement turned out to be quite a nice fit
@@TomMakeHere Yep a nice fit is all that matters. It came out well. When you cracked it loose, I thought we were gonna see you get soaked in hydraulic fluid for a moment. :-)
@Craig's Workshop Thankfully it went exactly as I expected!
That being said, I topped up my engine hoist a couple of months ago, turns out the plug is only held in by about half a thread. It went everywhere!
@@TomMakeHere Ah that sucks. Can you deepen the threads (or make a longer plug or whatever)?
Not a bad idea actually. Although I shouldn't need to touch it again, I just didn't have enough oil the first time around
looks like that'll defenitely work a treat, lol. I was more worried about the welding destroying the loctite bond, but it looks like it survived easily enough, lol.
I need to check the bottle, I think I've got a high temp retaining formula
Nice interesting video, one thing. When using an adjustable jaw wrench (crescent wrench), you need to turn it around from the way you had it.
Yep, I thought it was a myth about jaw breakage. Turns out it prevents damaging the nut
Wanted to say the same.
We call it a shifting spanner, and you definitely used it the wrong way around.
It seems I never have the correct pin spanners myself. Good build!
Yeah I'm considering making a set of the 'scissor' type that has adjustable spacing for myself
I don't need them as heavy duty as this one though!
Vous utilisez la clé a molette a l'envers
Cordialement
D'accord. J'ai entendu que ça n'avait pas d'importance. Si vous utilisez suffisamment de levier pour endommager quelque chose, votre clé est trop petite
Hi Tommy, surprising how much pressure was in there to lock that thread like it did. Nice tool. Regards Kevin
Yeah I thought it would come way easier
Nice job on the tool. And your welds looked like they would hold fine.When working with hydraulics
Always unload the pressure.
Cheer Fred
Thanks for watching Fred.
Yes I was aware that there could be some pressure, not sure if it came across in video, but I made sure to stay clear of the threaded plug in case it or oil came shooting out
I also suspected that with almost no oil reserve, not much could actually happen. But you are right, next time I'll drain it first
I had a similar height reach problem with my mills. Stub Drills are your friend. Difficult to find to buy, so I resorted to cutting off a standard jobber drills and sharpening them. I very rarely use full length drills now.
Yeah eventually I'm going to build a riser block. I struggle to tram my vice in etc. Good tip though, I might do that in the mean time
Nice video, I always like shop made tools! But it's not that suprising that you had to use a lot of force to get it off. I ran the numbers and the seal looks to be around 100mm, with only 5 bars pressure at that diameter you would get about 400kg of weight on those threads. And it might be a lot higher pressure, we fill the accumulators at work with 50-60 bars of nitrogen. Regardless, nice build and keep up the good work!
Cheers! Yeah it's a decent effective area
Thanks for watching
You're using that crescent wrench backwards.
Is that actually a thing? I heard that it really doesn't matter and if you are putting enough force to damage something you should be using a bigger one anyway
@@TomMakeHere Has to do with rounding the nut and also it is hard on the wrench. It's what I was taught. I did some searching on the tube and looks like most use it this way. I try to never use one but sometimes it's the only tool that fits.
Gday Tommy, i see what you mean about the height factor of the mill, wouldn’t be hard to get into trouble at all. Nice save with the vice, quick reset on the the go again, top video mate, take care, Matty
Cheers Matty
Yeah the mill height is becoming a serious problem. I need to get on and finish my riser block build
Always go for the big nut. More area to weld
Tom, ma mait! Never push, always pull: a) safety first b) more force. I'm surprised to see you missed that.
Thanks for the tip!
I'm no mechanic lol
That was cool, I too enjoy those projects where you get to bring your work stuff home and your "hobby" bails them out! That was one tight accumulator plate!
Cheers. Yeah it could have been outsourced, but I thought it would make a cool project
and yeah the thread took some persuasion!
Nice work Tom, nothing is as permanent as a quick temporary fix that works.
Love that saying
I would have milled a channel into the top the size of the stock used for a handle and welded it.. job done ✅
Not a bad idea. They wanted a hex to suit a socket due to space limitations when it's on the machine
Sweet build. Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for watching!
you are using the adjustable spanner backwards
Yup, just for the haters 😉
Love being able to make custom tools in a pinch like this. Nice project
Cheers,
yeah I don't know how people can live without owning machine tools!
@@TomMakeHere I know right! I didn't bother to look for a lathe until I had my sights on a mill. To me they are a matched set like set n pepper shakers lol
Great Video well presented and found it very usefull
Thanks for watching
I've welded a generic 1" impact sockets into parts like that, which seems to go down well with mechanics. The 1", or 1/2" drive gives you a good few solid options to put a breaker bar, or impact driver onto it. I liked your use of 4140 rod as dowel pins, but the loctite is rated for 0.1 to 0.2 mm clearance, it grips better, I think in a plain drilled hole, if true position of the pins is unimportant. Stamping your name, or the pcd, and ID size would have been a nice touch to finish the tool. It'll get chucked into the bottom of someone's toolbox, and by the time they pull it out again, they'll never remember what it was meant to fit. It turned out a good, quick solution to the problem, and looked the part at the end of the day.
Thanks for comment
Yeah a socket would have been a great method. I might do that next time
I agree the locktite clearance isn't ideal, in hindsight maybe I should have relieved the centre of the pins so it grips there, but the ends are close fitting to get good alignment
Thanks for watching
@@TomMakeHere Never thought about relieving the centre of the pins! I'm going to steal that one for when I need it! Great idea, it'd only need a few hundredths relieved on the bench grinder, or hard turned. I've always found that pin spanner holes are never that tightly toleranced, they're always meant to be a bit sloppy on the spanner. I've never come across a regular drawing with a true position callout, or tight tolerance on diameter for a pin spanner hole, high end down hole oil tools are a different kettle of fish though. The best thing about sockets though is that they're mostly 4140, or 4130, so nice to weld onto, and easy to modify to suit, like chopping them down. I learned the socket trick from one of Bruce Whitman's videos. My instagram's matthew.gowan.5
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Well done. I liked the supa glue life hack !
Cheers!
You do a lot of nice stuff but turn the spanner around !
Yep, I thought it was a myth about which way around it should go. Apparently not lol
Great adaption, yes moisture on Cyanoacrylate speeds up its setting, it was designed for use on human tissue.
Great vlog, thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK. John
It makes a great instant liquid bandage in the shop too!
Thanks for watching
Well your welding is much better and stronger than mine, good job, nice video.
I was surprised at how well it held!
Thanks for watching
The pure mechanic porn
Oh yeah
Thanks for watching
Nice video mate, keep em coming 👏🏼👍🏼
Cheers, will do! Thanks for watching
After watching i thought it might be better to loctite the pins after welding - hindsight is always 20/20 !
I agree, I was going to go back and redo it, but I tested and it held perfectly
Can't remomber now but I think I have a high temperature loctite
Or maybe a slight knurl on the pins, which would also make replacement easier should it ever be necessary.
Crazy thing is our maintenance shop doesn't have a lathe! I wanted to make the pins simple. It should be easy to reloctite them if they require replacement. I did consider a set screw on each pin as an alternative
Yum
😋?
Great job! Thanks for sharing
Cheers! Thanks for watching!
Nice One Tom, problem solved!
Cheers! I was happy with the result and it worked