Thanks! The first tutorial I watched was by "How to make sushi". While he is good, I think that movie gave me too much to think about. I really liked Bob Kramer's sharpening tutorial posted on "Sur La Table". That's also a shorter, more to the point. I've also learned a lot from loads of channels, but it's easy to get overloaded with information.
Thanks! And same here, I could have used it myself. ?= As I wrote in another comment, Bob Kramers tutorial on "Sur La Table" is in the same category. Not overcomplicating stuff, and getting to the point. I like the nerdy videos as well, but for me they were too rich in information and made me over-think stuff when I started out.
2:40- It’s so important to express the pressure needed to begin the sharpening. A lot of people can spend hours making passes without any results. You’re like the first Tuber to Mention it! LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED
Great video. Really informative and simple to under. I like how you didn’t fill the video with a ton of fluff talking. I wish I had seen this when I was new to sharpening.
Hello your video is great I also liked the explanation on the pressure to exert on the blade. I have a question can we go from 320 to 1000? I'm talking about shapton glass, I don't know if I'll get an answer but thanks anyway. Hello from France
Sorry for late reply. Can’t see which video you’ve commented on. I use Shapton Glass (white stones) and a few old soaking Ohishis for recurced blades. Hopes that help. Reach out on instagram (korvid) for a quicker reply!
Great question. Did a test and it seems to be about 3.5-4 kg (7-8 lbs). This is just holding the knife still thought, not sure how it changes as I move the knife.
When I started out I was careful with the edge leading strokes, and I think that’s a good general advice. Early on I also had a soft stone, and it was obvious when I cut into the stone. Now when I’m rather consistent I can be really aggressive in both ways if there’s lot material to remove.
I’m cleaning with a normal rust eraser, or with my Atoma 140 if I want to flatten at the same time. For a normal knife (not deba, kiridashi, etc.) I don’t think flattening is as important as some make it out to be. I’ve never been that pedantic about it, but I’ve also never allowed my stones to go really bad. I know that this perhaps is not a straight-forward answer, but this is also one of the things where you should develop your own opinion as you learn. I doubt that a slight unevenness will have any real impact and I would not be worried about it.
@@korvid in the video, you show that you put the knife in parallel to the wood block and you tilt it till we see the shape disappear, what shape do you mean?
Yaxell Ran is VG10. Nice steel. Takes a good edge. Has perhaps been given a bad reputation due to Chinese knives with 10Cr15CoMoV and bad heat treat marketing themselves as VG10.
sliding a knife foward on a wooden board to find the angle and expecting it to catch is not accurate cause it will require a > angle for duller knives. The sharper it is the lower you can go before you reach the secondary bevel. The shadow test on the stone is more reliable to find the sharpening angle.
Great job. This is one the clearest and most useful sharpening videos for beginners I have seen. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! The first tutorial I watched was by "How to make sushi". While he is good, I think that movie gave me too much to think about. I really liked Bob Kramer's sharpening tutorial posted on "Sur La Table". That's also a shorter, more to the point. I've also learned a lot from loads of channels, but it's easy to get overloaded with information.
Great video with some helpful tips! I can watch sharpening videos all day! Thank you!!
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Very good video. Straight and to the point. I wish I had found this a long time ago my friend.
Thanks! And same here, I could have used it myself. ?=
As I wrote in another comment, Bob Kramers tutorial on "Sur La Table" is in the same category. Not overcomplicating stuff, and getting to the point. I like the nerdy videos as well, but for me they were too rich in information and made me over-think stuff when I started out.
2:40- It’s so important to express the pressure needed to begin the sharpening. A lot of people can spend hours making passes without any results.
You’re like the first Tuber to Mention it!
LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED
Thanks! Will up my comment-answering game though! =)
Great video, a pair of nice Shaptons, right angle and a steady hand do the job! 👋
Excellent, thanks for a simple and easy explanation.
I have just received some glass stones🥰 Im really impressed with cutting speed and great feedback.. Thx
Great to hear you’re liking them. Sorry for late response. Notifications are terrible here.
Great video. Really informative and simple to under. I like how you didn’t fill the video with a ton of fluff talking. I wish I had seen this when I was new to sharpening.
Thanks. Trying to cut out all the fluff, as I’ve also found it annoying. Just rub knife on rock! ;)
Great simple tutorial. Appreciate your sharing.
Thanks. I appreciate you saying so!
Thanks for a great tutorial!
Thanks! Hope it goes well!
Thank you. Great tutorial!
Thanks. I appreciate you saying so!
Hello your video is great I also liked the explanation on the pressure to exert on the blade. I have a question can we go from 320 to 1000? I'm talking about shapton glass, I don't know if I'll get an answer but thanks anyway. Hello from France
What's the deal with stropping compound? How do i determine if it's for me or not? Is it worth it?
What brand of stone are you using there? Really helpful video bud
Sorry for late reply. Can’t see which video you’ve commented on. I use Shapton Glass (white stones) and a few old soaking Ohishis for recurced blades. Hopes that help. Reach out on instagram (korvid) for a quicker reply!
I'd love to better understand what you mean by hard pressure? Could you put the same amount of pressure on a scale and see what that equates to?
Great question. Did a test and it seems to be about 3.5-4 kg (7-8 lbs). This is just holding the knife still thought, not sure how it changes as I move the knife.
I really enjoyed it.
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Do you apply the same pressure on both the forward and backward stroke?
When I started out I was careful with the edge leading strokes, and I think that’s a good general advice. Early on I also had a soft stone, and it was obvious when I cut into the stone. Now when I’m rather consistent I can be really aggressive in both ways if there’s lot material to remove.
What do you use to get rid od load up and do you think flattening is necessary for a beginner?
I’m cleaning with a normal rust eraser, or with my Atoma 140 if I want to flatten at the same time. For a normal knife (not deba, kiridashi, etc.) I don’t think flattening is as important as some make it out to be. I’ve never been that pedantic about it, but I’ve also never allowed my stones to go really bad. I know that this perhaps is not a straight-forward answer, but this is also one of the things where you should develop your own opinion as you learn. I doubt that a slight unevenness will have any real impact and I would not be worried about it.
what shape would I see disappear
You’d have to give some more details for me to be able to answer.
@@korvid in the video, you show that you put the knife in parallel to the wood block and you tilt it till we see the shape disappear, what shape do you mean?
@@carlosbelizon4768 not shape , shadow
what kind of steel is that knife?
Yaxell Ran is VG10. Nice steel. Takes a good edge. Has perhaps been given a bad reputation due to Chinese knives with 10Cr15CoMoV and bad heat treat marketing themselves as VG10.
excellent thank you!
My pleasure!
Don't you hate it when you're sharpening and suddenly your chefs knife gets jealous of the petty you're sharpening?
It’s hard keeping multiple relationships alive at once… I think that’s the lesson from this, but I’m not sure.
sliding a knife foward on a wooden board to find the angle and expecting it to catch is not accurate cause it will require a > angle for duller knives. The sharper it is the lower you can go before you reach the secondary bevel. The shadow test on the stone is more reliable to find the sharpening angle.
I’m not of the opinion that there is one right way. That’s why I’m showing more ways. Sliding toward the edge is how I learned to find the angle.
What kind of knife/steel is it?
Sorry for late reply. Notifications are a mess here. Yaxell Ran, VG10.