H Tom: The fact that you altered end grain is exactly the way all my wood shop teachers taught us to do. I'm 73 and I still do it that way today but I never see any online videos doing that. Maybe they missed that day at school. LOL. Good video. Thank you. Chuck
This is a great idea! When I saw the description saying bungee cord cauls, I thought "What?". I'm glad I watched it through to the end. And you have some nice space saving ideas. Like putting your jointer under a hinged work top. Thanks!
Thanks Jim! I love that hinged work top. If you haven't already, check out my other videos on how I made those rolling workbenches and how they fit into my entire shop setup.
Tommy I am amazed at youtube community especiallly in woodworking world. You are perfect example of how a truly talented person can share their experience with anyone for free. Thank you. I have to take another sip of a beer to even thing how much work goes into prodcution of this video or any other for that matter. All I can say is thank you, I am a woodworker myself but I barely have time to do the actual work and that stresses me out sometimes. I appreciate people who put in so much work into this amazing hobby and building a community full of great thoughts and just fun :) Arek
Throw away your biscuit joiner for using on a top, you may not notice now but in time they will be noticed, especially if you had sanded the top within a week. Biscuits are designed to swell and lock in place; they are layered like plywood, So the solid wood has been expanded from the moisture of the glue as well as the expansion of the biscuit, glue hardens but wood still contains the water. You sand it all flat. Then about six month to a year you will notice the area where you had place biscuits have shrunk do to water evaporating and or equalizing throughout the wood. Even flat glue seam will expand like a mountain being pushed up between the two boards, and reappears as a valley down the road, that’s if you sanded it too early, I like to give about a week before finish sanding a top but if you have more time the better. Other alternative for alignment are to use a very shallow tongue and groove or using loose Tenon joinery but avoid using too much glue in the mortise if the top is thin. The loose tenon are of solid wood and do not expand as much as a biscuit.
I've used dowels for years with no problems whatsoever. I have no idea why people think dowels are hard to use. If you can spit and hit the floor you c an probably use dowels successfully..
Thank you! These bungee cauls definitely make life easier when gluing up a table top. If you just need to make a single table top I probably wouldn't recommend making them. But if you plan on doing many table tops, it's worth the time to make some in my opinion.
I just bought a hydraulic lift table for Harbor Freight it's a lifesaver. I also just bought a desk lift from Walmart for moving cab boxes around. Back back - I can relate!
GREAT video, nice to see someone who doesn’t need to show his face for half of the video while telling his story. Would like to see your shop layout. Again thanks
Hi Tommy, For the ball bungee end, would drilling a diagonal hole from end grain to the inner edge on the bottom caul board eliminate the need for the notch to accommodate the clamp. You could also counter bore the hole with a forstner bit to recess the bungee knot. Love the bungee caul concept. I'm restoring a Powershop 925E as well. You have a sweet setup!
Hey John - good idea! That seems like it would work as well. Maybe I'll give that a try on the next set that I make. Sounds like a great project restoring that 925E! Mine is the 925H version. I just saw this ad the other day that shows the two: s14.postimg.org/62mgxqctt/925_E-925_H-_Ad.jpg
Thanks for the Link. I print it to keep with my other documentation. Finished reading "Easy Ways to Expert Woodworking" by Robert Scharff and Ijust received Mr. Sawdust's book. I'll be making the table next. I just replaced the capacitor and it runs very smooth and is amazingly quiet. Hoping Forrest still sells the blade they designed for RAS.
Another good book to pick up is "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" by Jon Eakes. For the setup procedures, I found this book to be a little easier to understand compared to the Mr Sawdust book, but they're both good. You can still buy the Woodworker 1 blade by Forrest (get the 8" blade). I picked mine up from www.sliversmill.com
The motors on the 925 are a bit underpowered (especially the E version). The smaller diameter of the 8" blade makes it easier for the motor to power through thicker material. The general consensus on the DeWalt Radial Arm saw forum (people.delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust/) is that the 8" blade performs better. I think Mr. Sawdust goes into detail about this as well in his book. He also prefers the "TCG" version of that blade which is what I have as well.
Ti maintain sequence of wood an old trick is to deaw a triangle across the width of the panel. Even if the boards get out of sequence, if you "rebuild" the triangle, the boards will be in the original positions both edges and surfaces.
Nice project. A note about biscuit and/or domino joints. Success is dependent on have a dead flat table and good clamping method. I have seen people ruin a lot of beautiful wood. With Titebond or similar glue, edge gluing with good cauls & clamps can provide a very good joined surface.
I wouldnt bother with this set up (especially if i biscuited) because ive never found alignment THAT tricky, but I love the ingenuity (plus your kids were cute), so.. subscribed
Tommy, make stanchions to elevate your glueup panels. See mtmwood. He makes beautiful end grain cutting boards. Buy a length of 1 1/2 inch drainage pvc pipe, cut down to whatever length you need and attach with screws. I've used this method for a couple of years.
4:41 And that is why you have a pully in the shop. Having AS and doing wood working in the shop. It really helps to have a pully and some track to move things around in the shop.
If you make taper caul for edge claps you'll need fewer clamps. There are Woodriver 4 way pressure clamp in one system at woodcraft woodworking supply store. They mount on 2x2 what ever length you want.
I was so waiting for your wife to "hulk it out" and lift it herself, that would have been great. Next project rails and blocks and tackle for the shop. :)
Mercy..The wife to do the lifting? I'm 60 with bad knees, back problems, etc, etc..I do the work without complaining.. What would you folks do if your wives had bad backs too?
Hey Tommy great video, sorry about your bad back. I was in pain when you where trying to lift the sander and i would advice you to purchase a set of "block and tackle" pulleys.( the small set i have can lift up to 500lbs each with ease) i took my floor drill press apart by myself using the pulleys (at the time i just had a Hernia operation)
True but not everybody has the equipment and ability to mill flat and square. I did a hickory top yesterday that I couldn’t mill with my tiny 4” jointer without getting tons of tear out. The boards had a slight bow in them but other than that they were pretty square. They just needed a little coaxing and the cauls were perfect for this.
I used two lengths of 2" x 2" x 1/8" aluminum angle stock that's long enough to span the table top plus a few inches. Like your cauls, I put one on the bottom, one on the top and clamped both ends together. Glue doesn't stock to aluminum as well as it sticks to wood.
Maybe someone already mentioned this but I’m not reading all the comments to find out. Wanted to suggest that instead of notching the bottoms for the F clamp, counter sink with a Forstner bit so the knot is recessed. Problem solved and still looks clean.
That's useful information, and it's good to see a guy who knows about the DeWalt 925H. Is that a Forrest blade; which model? I've found that a 8-1/2" Freud TK604 or TK904 sliding miter saw blade is a good choice too - a thin blade with a moderate hook. (Hmm, btw a couple of 2x2x36" handles bolted to the feet of that sander would have made the lift much easier.)
Bob Blarney Yeah it's an 8 inch Forrest Woodworker 1 with the TCG design. It's a great blade for the RAS. Handles on the drum sander would have helped a lot! Hopefully, I won't have to lift that again anytime soon.
Okay.................I'm a big fan of Cauls. But aren't they at best redundant when using biscuits, dowels or dominoes? The purpose of all these are to align the edges of adjoining boards during glue-up. BTW....................your video took me back some 40 years. That's the last time I used a radial arm saw to rip material. Built a lot of stuff that way back in the day.
Theoretically, yes. But I must have a really crappy biscuit joiner because I always have a lot of vertical slop so I can't rely on biscuits alone. With the cauls, the biscuits probably aren't necessary but they don't hurt either.
Nice Job. I recently got a drumsander, it is a great machine to have. I guess you have lots of room in your shop, but I was thinking that while the location for the drumsander under the RAS is good for storage, it would be hard to use, I see we had the same thought, my solution would have been to make a flip top cabinet for the drum sander that when flipped down, the unit would still fit under the RAS, but like I said, I'm much more space challenged than most. Great video, thumbs up, and I subbed too! Cheers from Tokyo Japan
Been there, done that - my shop has an open ceiling, so I put a HF hoist attached to a bar clamp bar over the ceiling joists above the equipment needing lifting, push the button and up she goes... this doesn't address the "move from here to there" question, but perhaps up to a transport/wheeled table?
Great video. I recently got the same ryobi drum sander and have difficulty changing the paper on it. Specifically with the clip at the end of the drum holding the paper in place. Did you have any similar problems and if so what was your fix? Thanks.
Great video. Kinda makes me wonder though, would it be better to have some really strong bungees? Also when you decided to make a whole tabletop for it, why not use something like ratcheting straps?
You have a very sturdy looking bench right next to heavy thing you’re trying to lift. I assume you also have plenty of lumber. 8’ will work. Put one end of the board on bench. Use straps chains whatever to attach board about 1-2’ away from bench to sander then your daughter could probably lift it while you stabilize and slide blocks under until you hit desired height. See class two lever
Tommy, thanks for this great video. Up until maybe 7 days ago, I didn’t even know what a caul was. Yes I’m a newbie at woodworking for the most part. Today, I made 2 sets (64 inches long) for a project I’m working on. I do have a question though. I went ahead and used the cauls today and while the cauls are putting pressure in the middle and on the ends, I have some gap in between end and center. Cauls were made out of fairly new pine 2x4s. Would this likely be due to me removing too much using the jointer? I’m not being critical as I know this should work, just looking for a tip from someone more knowledgeable. Thanks again. You have a new subscriber.
Hello - if you put a straight edge on your caul from the center to one of the ends, do you see a gap or light in the middle? If so, it sounds like your jointer technique needs a little work to create a straight edge. If done correctly, it should put fairly even pressure across the boards from center to the ends and there shouldn't be any gap in the middle.
I made a similar set of cauls and now I'm adding the idea of the bungee cord. Brilliant. Question is... I made mine with each caul being 2.5" high...do you think this is sufficient? I think you rs are 3, yes? I know the taller the better but I feel mine are not getting it down well for that reason. Mine are two each top and two each bottom, glued with a spacer between. Also I need to go back and camber mine. That must be the biggest reason it isn't getting the job done. Also...what model drum sander is that? Mine is an 18/36 open ended by Grizzly and it is 3-4 times the size and weight of yours.
Mine are also 2.5" high x 3/4" thick. The cambered edge does help a lot. My drum sander is the Ryobi WDS1600 which is almost identical to the Jet 16-32. My stupid back prevents me from lifting anything heavy which explains why it took so long for us to lift that onto the cart lol!
Wouldn't this have been solved also with bar clamps applied on both sides? They tend to cup the whole board away from the bar, applying them on both sides will cause this cupping pressure to be directed towards both sides, leaving the board even. Or not?
very good, love seeing the mind at work. your first try didnt work so you had to improvise with what you did have. worked out great in the end. good video/ good speaking voice & good content. how could i not thumbs up & subscribe. looking forward to your next video. take care.
I have a really bad back and the ceiling in my garage is only about eight feet, so I have a winch set up for doing exactly this, along with about every lifting project...
You could cure your back issue with natural posture corrections. Esther Gokhale has a beautiful clear book and many videos where she teaches how to stand and walk like a native to cure back pain, and it really works. Very enjoyable video. Don't let your back issue get out of hand.
I'll be sure to check out Esther Gokhale, thanks for the suggestion! My back issues were definitely out of hand for 20+ years but they're pretty much non-existent now that I developed this: ua-cam.com/video/s0UgNiXtJs4/v-deo.html
I used Arm-R-Seal to finish the table top. The epoxy finishes clear if you sand through all the grits. You can see the results of that table top in this video: ua-cam.com/video/NSRXYPe2ztY/v-deo.html
TheRangeControl If you don’t taper the boards, the middle will start to rise up as you apply clamping pressure on the ends. Adding the taper ensures that the middle will get more clamping pressure and result in even pressure throughout the length of the boards as you clamp down.
I have to confess that I never really understood the point of using biscuits - I mean, the concept seems reasonable, especially when gluing up large flat surfaces where individual boards might not line up perfectly, but they don't work that well at accomplishing this and there are better methods of getting the job done. Mostly, the resulting deformation over time isn't worth the small gain you make (if any) in using them. I've seen too many table tops with biscuit "peaks" in them, and they don't add any strength to the cause. Far better to trust one's jointing skills, etc. The use of biscuits was one technique I never liked about so many of Norm Abram's projects - in fact, let's face it, he was Mr. Biscuit. Your advice on orienting boards alternately and jointing adjacent boards so as to self correct deviations in out-of-square is excellent.
I agree that biscuits don't add much. The biscuit joiner that I have is a real crappy one and it leaves too much vertical play in my opinion. I've never used a different one so I'm not sure if they're all that way or just mine. I only added biscuits in this case because I have them and I figured it couldn't hurt. But honestly, if the boards are nicely jointed I wouldn't miss having biscuits and would be perfectly content using just the cauls to ensure that everything levels out nicely during the glue up.
Great job! Making me change my plans. I have this caul project on my list to do for some time now. No jointer so I'll use my table saw for the angles. I had a different idea to keep them together but I like your bungy idea FAR better. So much better that I'm not even going to say what my idea was and that I'm going to steal your idea. Clamping I'm going to do a bit differnet though. Not sure what they are called, but I plan on using the clamps that have a right angle that you can put in a hole in the and then put the threaded side in a slot just like you have. Probably didn't explain that well at all but I'll private message you when I have my video done which won't be for some time. Oh yeah... If you have ever seen one of my vids you'll easily see that I really like lunch as well :)
1) Ads sometimes on www.Craigslist.org in the "tools" or "materials" sections. 2) A local woodworkers guild would have local people with information. 3) Some areas have local woodworking Facebook groups. 4) Just this weekend I sold a table saw part to a guy that gave me some advice on finding sheet goods. So buying and selling tools on Craigslist can be an opportunity to share knowledge.
Couldn't you have drilled recessed holes for the naught of the rope to sit in? Then you will have a flat surface for the clamps, without having to notch the cauls.
Yeah I could have done that and that's an excellent suggestion. To be honest, the only reason why I took it to the band saw instead was because it was quick and easy and having it notched out doesn't affect the operation of the clamps at all.
If it was just a straight edge without the 1/8" hump in the middle, when you clamp the ends down, the middle tends to not have as much clamping pressure and can result in the surface of the material you're trying to glue not being flat. With the 1/8" hump, as clamping pressure is applied to the ends, the middle bites down first and the cauls flex, putting even clamping pressure across the entire surface.
Tommy Tompkins oh nice, makes sense. Is there a formula for how big that “bump” should be in relation to the size of the cauls? I am going to do a 30” wide table and am going to make these cauls a tad bigger.
Why not make the slots in each caul wide enough to accept the clamp's bar and then eliminate the bungees? The clamps will simply hang from the top caul and into the bottom caul.
I hate to leave negative comments but was extremely frustrated by this video. He seems like a very nice guy but I feel at this stage of his woodworking knowledge he should be learning, not teaching. Clearly he should glue up many more tabletops before explaining the steps. If he is having big problems keeping the top flat during glue up he should spent more time in the dry fitting stage. Make sure everything comes together easily before applying the glue. The other simple advice I give new woodworkers is to glue only one joint at a time. Spend the time getting the entire joint flat before tightening the clamps and you won’t have the need for cauls, bungee or any other type. He absolutely needed to go through all of the steps of making/using the cauls at least once before turning the video recorder on. The fact that he had to keep revising things as he went along shows that he hadn’t thought enough about what he was trying to accomplish before starting.
Robert McBreen This is a free market of ideas. I'm not sure he's saying "do it this way". It's more like "here's how I did it". There's plenty of other videos about jointing, joining, sanding, glue ups etc... Relax homey.
I agree. I would love to not make mistakes. My realistic goal is that I am the only one who notices the mistakes, and sometimes that is a reach. I spend lots of time Googling how to fix mistakes, a video with active problem solving can be priceless.
Or do what I do...suck it up and do the work anyway.. I have a 80 lb planer and don't ask the wife for help lifting it. You're young men. What the heck are you gonna do when you're 60 for christs sake?
The purpose of biscuits and cauls in this application is the same. However, if you use both, only the biscuits will be effective, since there is no vertical play with the biscuits and they lock the boards into position. Applying cauls afterwards isn't effective which is why your video shows a gap between the leading board and the second board at 15:53 in your video. The cauls couldn't correct it because the biscuits prevent movement. I've used biscuits in similar circumstances, although much farther apart, since you only need a couple to ensure the boards align. The idea of spring loaded cauls is interesting, but should be used alone.
The purpose is the same, however, in my specific case I do have some vertical play using biscuits and that cheap biscuit joiner. I don't know if it's my specific biscuit joiner or just how biscuits are in general but I've never used any other so I have nothing to compare it to. The cauls work better for me but I just throw the biscuits in there because I have them and honestly, I'm just trying to get rid of them.
That biscuit joiner did look a little funky. I've never seen that particular one before. I use a Porter Cable and the biscuits are matched to the blade size, which leaves no vertical play. They do expand if you use too much glue, so I tend to use less glue in the biscuit grooves and more glue in other areas.
Охренеть! И чем он там занимается? Одну суету навел. Кажется, у него жена сильнее, чем он. Она запросто закинула станок на подставку, а мужик свою сторону и не доподнял ))))))
i am only at 5:36 so far but it's easy to tell your posture and alignment are so far out my friend. id recommend you go to the best chiropractor you can afford in your area and let the doc treat your spine to some TLC. you'll wonder why you never did it before. everything is connected to your spine and when something is out of alignment it effects the whole body. so treat yourself to this. you know how women love going to the day spa? they treat themselves to this. well its the same for us guys. we need a little TLC from time to time as well and so you can count this as an experience like that but much faster. in and out give yourself the rest of the day to settle into the new alignment then back into it. if your back has been playing up for a long time it may take more than one adjustment. maybe 2 or 3 to get your spine back to where it should be. after all is said and done i promise you will be glad you did. you can get the misses in on some of that treatment too. she'll be so happy. enjoy :D
H Tom:
The fact that you altered end grain is exactly the way all my wood shop teachers taught us to do. I'm 73 and I still do it that way today but I never see any online videos doing that. Maybe they missed that day at school. LOL. Good video. Thank you.
Chuck
Thanks Chuck!
Tipical, in order to make one piece of furniture you`ll always end up fabricating 5 different new tools, I love it.
Isn't that the truth!
So true. . .
This is a great idea! When I saw the description saying bungee cord cauls, I thought "What?". I'm glad I watched it through to the end. And you have some nice space saving ideas. Like putting your jointer under a hinged work top. Thanks!
Thanks Jim! I love that hinged work top. If you haven't already, check out my other videos on how I made those rolling workbenches and how they fit into my entire shop setup.
Yep. I looked at your other videos and subscribed. A lot of good ideas there.
Tommy I am amazed at youtube community especiallly in woodworking world. You are perfect example of how a truly talented person can share their experience with anyone for free. Thank you. I have to take another sip of a beer to even thing how much work goes into prodcution of this video or any other for that matter. All I can say is thank you, I am a woodworker myself but I barely have time to do the actual work and that stresses me out sometimes. I appreciate people who put in so much work into this amazing hobby and building a community full of great thoughts and just fun :)
Arek
Amazing content I learned allot as a beginner woodsmith
Thumbs up for the name LOL. Nicely Done
Awesome video and great ideals!! Will use in my shop !! Once again Thanks for the tips !!
Thank you!
The best parts are the ones you show the problems/mistakes you have come up to. Oh, yeah, and the turtle... :)
Nice solution for a table top glue up. I can see where that would save a lot of sanding time. Great job................
I like the cauls you made. I made a set of pannel clamps, they act like a caul and a clamp in one. I made mine with 3/4" threaded rod.
Thanks Evan! It sounds like have a great solution there.
Throw away your biscuit joiner for using on a top, you may not notice now but in time they will be noticed, especially if you had sanded the top within a week. Biscuits are designed to swell and lock in place; they are layered like plywood,
So the solid wood has been expanded from the moisture of the glue as well as the expansion of the biscuit, glue hardens but wood still contains the water. You sand it all flat. Then about six month to a year you will notice the area where you had place biscuits have shrunk do to water evaporating and or equalizing throughout the wood.
Even flat glue seam will expand like a mountain being pushed up between the two boards, and reappears as a valley down the road, that’s if you sanded it too early, I like to give about a week before finish sanding a top but if you have more time the better.
Other alternative for alignment are to use a very shallow tongue and groove or using loose Tenon joinery but avoid using too much glue in the mortise if the top is thin. The loose tenon are of solid wood and do not expand as much as a biscuit.
Biscuits add nothing to panel glue ups, absolutely not needed... glue and clamps is all that's needed.
I've used dowels for years with no problems whatsoever. I have no idea why people think dowels are hard to use. If you can spit and hit the floor you c an probably use dowels successfully..
Nice, easy solution. I'll have to add another 6 hours to my table build plan now...doh! Seriously, good job and thanks.
Thank you! These bungee cauls definitely make life easier when gluing up a table top. If you just need to make a single table top I probably wouldn't recommend making them. But if you plan on doing many table tops, it's worth the time to make some in my opinion.
thank you . not shocked about the time. . liked the clamp idea
I just bought a hydraulic lift table for Harbor Freight it's a lifesaver. I also just bought a desk lift from Walmart for moving cab boxes around. Back back - I can relate!
I could probably use one of those.
GREAT video, nice to see someone who doesn’t need to show his face for half of the video while telling his story. Would like to see your shop layout. Again thanks
Nice to see how your idea evolved. SHows how R&D works
The bungies are a fantastic idea
Jack Bench Woodworking Thanks Charlie!
Nice entry level project. Gotta get myself a lathe.
very clean looking video, nice. Love the dog.
Thank you
Very cool idea. Thanks for sharing.
A good table saw with a great fine tooth blade will make joinable edge surfaces.
I like to use a straight edge and a router. It will make sure that's it's square and straight. JD
cool idea maybe try just using a countersink bit on the ball side so the ball has a recess to sit in. just a thought
Great idea!
I was wondering about the construction of this in your other video. Thanks for sharing!
I also sand dried epoxy with a random orbital sander. Works well for me.
Hi Tommy,
For the ball bungee end, would drilling a diagonal hole from end grain to the inner edge on the bottom caul board eliminate the need for the notch to accommodate the clamp. You could also counter bore the hole with a forstner bit to recess the bungee knot. Love the bungee caul concept. I'm restoring a Powershop 925E as well. You have a sweet setup!
Hey John - good idea! That seems like it would work as well. Maybe I'll give that a try on the next set that I make.
Sounds like a great project restoring that 925E! Mine is the 925H version. I just saw this ad the other day that shows the two: s14.postimg.org/62mgxqctt/925_E-925_H-_Ad.jpg
Thanks for the Link. I print it to keep with my other documentation. Finished reading "Easy Ways to Expert Woodworking" by Robert Scharff and Ijust received Mr. Sawdust's book. I'll be making the table next. I just replaced the capacitor and it runs very smooth and is amazingly quiet. Hoping Forrest still sells the blade they designed for RAS.
Another good book to pick up is "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" by Jon Eakes. For the setup procedures, I found this book to be a little easier to understand compared to the Mr Sawdust book, but they're both good. You can still buy the Woodworker 1 blade by Forrest (get the 8" blade). I picked mine up from www.sliversmill.com
Why the 8" for a 9" saw???
The motors on the 925 are a bit underpowered (especially the E version). The smaller diameter of the 8" blade makes it easier for the motor to power through thicker material. The general consensus on the DeWalt Radial Arm saw forum (people.delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust/) is that the 8" blade performs better. I think Mr. Sawdust goes into detail about this as well in his book. He also prefers the "TCG" version of that blade which is what I have as well.
More great stuff from Tommy Tompkins! Thanks, Tommy!
Some really great tips here.
Ti maintain sequence of wood an old trick is to deaw a triangle across the width of the panel. Even if the boards get out of sequence, if you "rebuild" the triangle, the boards will be in the original positions both edges and surfaces.
R
Nice project. A note about biscuit and/or domino joints. Success is dependent on have a dead flat table and good clamping method. I have seen people ruin a lot of beautiful wood. With Titebond or similar glue, edge gluing with good cauls & clamps can provide a very good joined surface.
All very true Bill!
I wouldnt bother with this set up (especially if i biscuited) because ive never found alignment THAT tricky, but I love the ingenuity (plus your kids were cute), so.. subscribed
Tommy, make stanchions to elevate your glueup panels. See mtmwood. He makes beautiful end grain cutting boards. Buy a length of 1 1/2 inch drainage pvc pipe, cut down to whatever length you need and attach with screws. I've used this method for a couple of years.
4:41 And that is why you have a pully in the shop.
Having AS and doing wood working in the shop. It really helps to have a pully and some track to move things around in the shop.
Yeah that'd be nice. One of these days I'll probably add a pulley with some track.
Even if pulley was in one spot, with rolling tables just lift scoot table under. And if you need move to another table.
If you make taper caul for edge claps you'll need fewer clamps.
There are Woodriver 4 way pressure clamp in one system at woodcraft woodworking supply store. They mount on 2x2 what ever length you want.
bungee cord helpers! brilliant idea.
I was so waiting for your wife to "hulk it out" and lift it herself, that would have been great. Next project rails and blocks and tackle for the shop. :)
Mercy..The wife to do the lifting? I'm 60 with bad knees, back problems, etc, etc..I do the work without complaining.. What would you folks do if your wives had bad backs too?
Hey Tommy great video, sorry about your bad back. I was in pain when you where trying to lift the sander and i would advice you to purchase a set of "block and tackle" pulleys.( the small set i have can lift up to 500lbs each with ease) i took my floor drill press apart by myself using the pulleys (at the time i just had a Hernia operation)
Thanks for the suggestion! I could probably use some of those pulleys.
We glue up table tops every day at the shop where I work. You don't need biscuits or cauls if your boards are milled flat and square.
True but not everybody has the equipment and ability to mill flat and square. I did a hickory top yesterday that I couldn’t mill with my tiny 4” jointer without getting tons of tear out. The boards had a slight bow in them but other than that they were pretty square. They just needed a little coaxing and the cauls were perfect for this.
Awesome video. Is there a way the jig can be made without a drill press?
I used two lengths of 2" x 2" x 1/8" aluminum angle stock that's long enough to span the table top plus a few inches. Like your cauls, I put one on the bottom, one on the top and clamped both ends together. Glue doesn't stock to aluminum as well as it sticks to wood.
Maybe someone already mentioned this but I’m not reading all the comments to find out. Wanted to suggest that instead of notching the bottoms for the F clamp, counter sink with a Forstner bit so the knot is recessed. Problem solved and still looks clean.
That's a good suggestion. Thanks!
I think Braden means counter bore not counter sink the bottom call for the knot.
This video I really liked!
That's useful information, and it's good to see a guy who knows about the DeWalt 925H. Is that a Forrest blade; which model? I've found that a 8-1/2" Freud TK604 or TK904 sliding miter saw blade is a good choice too - a thin blade with a moderate hook. (Hmm, btw a couple of 2x2x36" handles bolted to the feet of that sander would have made the lift much easier.)
Bob Blarney Yeah it's an 8 inch Forrest Woodworker 1 with the TCG design. It's a great blade for the RAS. Handles on the drum sander would have helped a lot! Hopefully, I won't have to lift that again anytime soon.
You could also countersink the hole so the knot fit in... instad of cutting away a recess on the bandsaw
Okay.................I'm a big fan of Cauls. But aren't they at best redundant when using biscuits, dowels or dominoes? The purpose of all these are to align the edges of adjoining boards during glue-up. BTW....................your video took me back some 40 years. That's the last time I used a radial arm saw to rip material. Built a lot of stuff that way back in the day.
Theoretically, yes. But I must have a really crappy biscuit joiner because I always have a lot of vertical slop so I can't rely on biscuits alone. With the cauls, the biscuits probably aren't necessary but they don't hurt either.
Bad back, bad knees and no wife here..... wear some back amd knee braces and build a small shop crane :) hope to see it in a next project ;)
Another great video, love your ideas!!!
Thanks Matt!
Nice Job.
I recently got a drumsander, it is a great machine to have.
I guess you have lots of room in your shop, but I was thinking that while the location for the drumsander under the RAS is good for storage, it would be hard to use, I see we had the same thought, my solution would have been to make a flip top cabinet for the drum sander that when flipped down, the unit would still fit under the RAS, but like I said, I'm much more space challenged than most.
Great video, thumbs up, and I subbed too!
Cheers from Tokyo Japan
A flip top cabinet would be another great idea! Thanks for the sub!
Been there, done that - my shop has an open ceiling, so I put a HF hoist attached to a bar clamp bar over the ceiling joists above the equipment needing lifting, push the button and up she goes... this doesn't address the "move from here to there" question, but perhaps up to a transport/wheeled table?
planning on making a flip over table so i can place two machines at the same hight on the same spot
Great video. I recently got the same ryobi drum sander and have difficulty changing the paper on it. Specifically with the clip at the end of the drum holding the paper in place. Did you have any similar problems and if so what was your fix? Thanks.
Awesome dude
Great video. Kinda makes me wonder though, would it be better to have some really strong bungees? Also when you decided to make a whole tabletop for it, why not use something like ratcheting straps?
You have a very sturdy looking bench right next to heavy thing you’re trying to lift.
I assume you also have plenty of lumber. 8’ will work. Put one end of the board on bench. Use straps chains whatever to attach board about 1-2’ away from bench to sander then your daughter could probably lift it while you stabilize and slide blocks under until you hit desired height.
See class two lever
Lifting this wouldn't be an issue anymore. I flew to Germany for back surgery and got it fixed. I talk about this in my latest shop update video :)
Tommy, thanks for this great video. Up until maybe 7 days ago, I didn’t even know what a caul was. Yes I’m a newbie at woodworking for the most part. Today, I made 2 sets (64 inches long) for a project I’m working on. I do have a question though. I went ahead and used the cauls today and while the cauls are putting pressure in the middle and on the ends, I have some gap in between end and center. Cauls were made out of fairly new pine 2x4s. Would this likely be due to me removing too much using the jointer? I’m not being critical as I know this should work, just looking for a tip from someone more knowledgeable. Thanks again. You have a new subscriber.
Hello - if you put a straight edge on your caul from the center to one of the ends, do you see a gap or light in the middle? If so, it sounds like your jointer technique needs a little work to create a straight edge. If done correctly, it should put fairly even pressure across the boards from center to the ends and there shouldn't be any gap in the middle.
I think your dog is on prozac ... chill AF
i know the bad back thing but it call get lift the not bad to have around when need them lol nice video
I made a similar set of cauls and now I'm adding the idea of the bungee cord. Brilliant. Question is... I made mine with each caul being 2.5" high...do you think this is sufficient? I think you rs are 3, yes? I know the taller the better but I feel mine are not getting it down well for that reason. Mine are two each top and two each bottom, glued with a spacer between. Also I need to go back and camber mine. That must be the biggest reason it isn't getting the job done.
Also...what model drum sander is that? Mine is an 18/36 open ended by Grizzly and it is 3-4 times the size and weight of yours.
Mine are also 2.5" high x 3/4" thick. The cambered edge does help a lot.
My drum sander is the Ryobi WDS1600 which is almost identical to the Jet 16-32. My stupid back prevents me from lifting anything heavy which explains why it took so long for us to lift that onto the cart lol!
Like it ! [and your 'cool' new feature]
Wouldn't this have been solved also with bar clamps applied on both sides? They tend to cup the whole board away from the bar, applying them on both sides will cause this cupping pressure to be directed towards both sides, leaving the board even. Or not?
very nice thank you
very good, love seeing the mind at work. your first try didnt work so you had to improvise with what you did have. worked out great in the end. good video/ good speaking voice & good content. how could i not thumbs up & subscribe. looking forward to your next video. take care.
Thanks for the kind works Christine!
Very impressive
I have a really bad back and the ceiling in my garage is only about eight feet, so I have a winch set up for doing exactly this, along with about every lifting project...
+
Mark Cassady
Yep the guy in the video used a wench to lift as well. Ohhhh you said winch... sorry.
You could cure your back issue with natural posture corrections. Esther Gokhale has a beautiful clear book and many videos where she teaches how to stand and walk like a native to cure back pain, and it really works. Very enjoyable video. Don't let your back issue get out of hand.
I'll be sure to check out Esther Gokhale, thanks for the suggestion! My back issues were definitely out of hand for 20+ years but they're pretty much non-existent now that I developed this: ua-cam.com/video/s0UgNiXtJs4/v-deo.html
Good idea!!! :)
Grain direction is a factor in jointing as far as preventing blowout. There's a few good videos about it.
Yes, that's true.
What did you use to finished the table top? Did the haze on the surface of the epoxy disappear after the finish dried?
I used Arm-R-Seal to finish the table top. The epoxy finishes clear if you sand through all the grits. You can see the results of that table top in this video: ua-cam.com/video/NSRXYPe2ztY/v-deo.html
Yep. Great job. New sub!
How to make bungee cauls for gluing up a table top begins at around 11:15
lovely family also :) (god bless)
Thanks!
The 8th wonder of the world, Mrs. Tompkins backside!
That's funny.
Anyone know what Jointer Tommy has, seems portable but with a great fence ?
Why did you taper the boards half-way on the jointer? Not judging... literally wondering.
TheRangeControl If you don’t taper the boards, the middle will start to rise up as you apply clamping pressure on the ends. Adding the taper ensures that the middle will get more clamping pressure and result in even pressure throughout the length of the boards as you clamp down.
what is that green dewalt??? is that a mitre and table saw function in one?
It's an old radial arm saw from 1960.
Damn brother....gimmie a call Ill come give you a hand next time. No Problem, happy to help.
I️ really wanted to see the frog lol
Sharpie on finish material?! One of my pet peeves!
I have to confess that I never really understood the point of using biscuits - I mean, the concept seems reasonable, especially when gluing up large flat surfaces where individual boards might not line up perfectly, but they don't work that well at accomplishing this and there are better methods of getting the job done. Mostly, the resulting deformation over time isn't worth the small gain you make (if any) in using them. I've seen too many table tops with biscuit "peaks" in them, and they don't add any strength to the cause. Far better to trust one's jointing skills, etc. The use of biscuits was one technique I never liked about so many of Norm Abram's projects - in fact, let's face it, he was Mr. Biscuit. Your advice on orienting boards alternately and jointing adjacent boards so as to self correct deviations in out-of-square is excellent.
I agree that biscuits don't add much. The biscuit joiner that I have is a real crappy one and it leaves too much vertical play in my opinion. I've never used a different one so I'm not sure if they're all that way or just mine. I only added biscuits in this case because I have them and I figured it couldn't hurt. But honestly, if the boards are nicely jointed I wouldn't miss having biscuits and would be perfectly content using just the cauls to ensure that everything levels out nicely during the glue up.
Craig Stark
I have a Lamello biscuit joiner and it is spot on. It can help with alignment but it can also help with/minimize expansion.
Great job! Making me change my plans. I have this caul project on my list to do for some time now. No jointer so I'll use my table saw for the angles. I had a different idea to keep them together but I like your bungy idea FAR better. So much better that I'm not even going to say what my idea was and that I'm going to steal your idea. Clamping I'm going to do a bit differnet though. Not sure what they are called, but I plan on using the clamps that have a right angle that you can put in a hole in the and then put the threaded side in a slot just like you have. Probably didn't explain that well at all but I'll private message you when I have my video done which won't be for some time.
Oh yeah... If you have ever seen one of my vids you'll easily see that I really like lunch as well :)
Your table saw should work just fine to cut the tapers. Glad you like the idea and please feel free to steal it!
BronkBuilt kanystry
How do you find a local sawmill and guy?
1) Ads sometimes on www.Craigslist.org in the "tools" or "materials" sections.
2) A local woodworkers guild would have local people with information.
3) Some areas have local woodworking Facebook groups.
4) Just this weekend I sold a table saw part to a guy that gave me some advice on finding sheet goods. So buying and selling tools on Craigslist can be an opportunity to share knowledge.
What type of drum sander is that i i didn't recognize it
That's a Ryobi WDS 1600 which is very similar to the Jet 16-32
Couldn't you have drilled recessed holes for the naught of the rope to sit in? Then you will have a flat surface for the clamps, without having to notch the cauls.
Yeah I could have done that and that's an excellent suggestion. To be honest, the only reason why I took it to the band saw instead was because it was quick and easy and having it notched out doesn't affect the operation of the clamps at all.
Maybe this was answered in the comment section, but why the 1/8" bump in the middle of the calls and just a straight edge?
If it was just a straight edge without the 1/8" hump in the middle, when you clamp the ends down, the middle tends to not have as much clamping pressure and can result in the surface of the material you're trying to glue not being flat. With the 1/8" hump, as clamping pressure is applied to the ends, the middle bites down first and the cauls flex, putting even clamping pressure across the entire surface.
Tommy Tompkins oh nice, makes sense. Is there a formula for how big that “bump” should be in relation to the size of the cauls? I am going to do a 30” wide table and am going to make these cauls a tad bigger.
Great idea...thanks...rr
5.37..note that his wife carries the heavy end where the motor is...she is a real workhorse!
cute kids
I'm a little biased, but I think they're kinda cute myself :)
I don't quite understand why you had to go and eat lunch. Didn't you eat yesterday? Good video. Thank you.
Haha. Lunch is good, especially after a nice glue-up.
thanx for the video and the laugh 7 min 58 sec
Why not make the slots in each caul wide enough to accept the clamp's bar and then eliminate the bungees? The clamps will simply hang from the top caul and into the bottom caul.
That would work too.
where did you buy that jointer?
I didn't. It was my grandpa's that he used in the 60s
ohhh.. thats the jointer i wanted for my shop not the big ones. haha thanks
I still see this exact same make / model on craigslist all the time so I'd recommend checking there and you'll eventually pick one up.
oh thanks man!
I hate to leave negative comments but was extremely frustrated by this video. He seems like a very nice guy but I feel at this stage of his woodworking knowledge he should be learning, not teaching. Clearly he should glue up many more tabletops before explaining the steps.
If he is having big problems keeping the top flat during glue up he should spent more time in the dry fitting stage. Make sure everything comes together easily before applying the glue. The other simple advice I give new woodworkers is to glue only one joint at a time. Spend the time getting the entire joint flat before tightening the clamps and you won’t have the need for cauls, bungee or any other type.
He absolutely needed to go through all of the steps of making/using the cauls at least once before turning the video recorder on. The fact that he had to keep revising things as he went along shows that he hadn’t thought enough about what he was trying to accomplish before starting.
Robert McBreen
This is a free market of ideas. I'm not sure he's saying "do it this way". It's more like "here's how I did it". There's plenty of other videos about jointing, joining, sanding, glue ups etc... Relax homey.
I agree. I would love to not make mistakes. My realistic goal is that I am the only one who notices the mistakes, and sometimes that is a reach. I spend lots of time Googling how to fix mistakes, a video with active problem solving can be priceless.
I am super new to woodworking. I appriciate these kinds of videos for what they are.
You need to make a crane to save your back
Yes, I do!
Or do what I do...suck it up and do the work anyway.. I have a 80 lb planer and don't ask the wife for help lifting it. You're young men. What the heck are you gonna do when you're 60 for christs sake?
@@martinoamello3017 be in hospital when i'm 50
already have deep tendon spasms from 13 years of robotic work
The purpose of biscuits and cauls in this application is the same. However, if you use both, only the biscuits will be effective, since there is no vertical play with the biscuits and they lock the boards into position. Applying cauls afterwards isn't effective which is why your video shows a gap between the leading board and the second board at 15:53 in your video. The cauls couldn't correct it because the biscuits prevent movement. I've used biscuits in similar circumstances, although much farther apart, since you only need a couple to ensure the boards align.
The idea of spring loaded cauls is interesting, but should be used alone.
The purpose is the same, however, in my specific case I do have some vertical play using biscuits and that cheap biscuit joiner. I don't know if it's my specific biscuit joiner or just how biscuits are in general but I've never used any other so I have nothing to compare it to. The cauls work better for me but I just throw the biscuits in there because I have them and honestly, I'm just trying to get rid of them.
That biscuit joiner did look a little funky. I've never seen that particular one before. I use a Porter Cable and the biscuits are matched to the blade size, which leaves no vertical play. They do expand if you use too much glue, so I tend to use less glue in the biscuit grooves and more glue in other areas.
What kind of drum sander was that?
It's a Ryobi WDS1600 which is very similar to the Jet 16-32 and takes the same rolls of paper.
Охренеть! И чем он там занимается? Одну суету навел.
Кажется, у него жена сильнее, чем он. Она запросто закинула станок на подставку, а мужик свою сторону и не доподнял ))))))
Во во, самую тяжелую сторону жена потянула)))
woodworking plan lighthouse .
Fantastic..
Sadly that’s about how long it takes me to do anything too. Bad backs suck badly.
Yeah bad backs suck. I'm very thankful that I had surgery and my back issues are a thing of the past!
Add an engine hoist.
No engine hoist necessary. I had back surgery in Germany and have no troubles lifting anymore. It wasn't the weight that was an issue, it was my back!
buenos dias como podria hacer una cabecera para la cama
i am only at 5:36 so far but it's easy to tell your posture and alignment are so far out my friend. id recommend you go to the best chiropractor you can afford in your area and let the doc treat your spine to some TLC. you'll wonder why you never did it before. everything is connected to your spine and when something is out of alignment it effects the whole body. so treat yourself to this. you know how women love going to the day spa? they treat themselves to this. well its the same for us guys. we need a little TLC from time to time as well and so you can count this as an experience like that but much faster. in and out give yourself the rest of the day to settle into the new alignment then back into it. if your back has been playing up for a long time it may take more than one adjustment. maybe 2 or 3 to get your spine back to where it should be. after all is said and done i promise you will be glad you did. you can get the misses in on some of that treatment too. she'll be so happy. enjoy :D