Ipe Oil Product Shootout
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Looking for the best Ipe finish? We pit five different Ipe Oils against one another to see how they do. This is just the beginning too!
Detailed Results: toolboxdiy.com...
The Five Oils:
Armstrong Clark Hardwood/Ipe Stain
Cabot Australian Timber Oil
Deckwise Ipe Oil Plus
Messmer's UV Plus Hardwoods
Penofin Hardwood Stain
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i have an ipe deck and this is 100% consistent with my experience. a lot of work to look good for a few months at best.
Thanks man for taking the time to show what the real deal it's about oil!!
After working @ a Sherwin Williams for many years (decades ago), and maintaining many of my own cedar decks with premium Azoko Nobel deck products and lots of other options (some Cabot and Flood's CWF-UV also seemed to do come close to matching Azoko's decking coatings); I have yet to find any semi-transparent stain product that is worth its cost, much less the labor to prep, and apply. Now I put in cedar and teak and let it age naturally.. Thanks for the video!
Great point but those of us who DID put in an exotic hardwood NEED something to use.
Man, thanks for this and the effort you put into this!
I'm having a bridge rebuilt with Ipe wood in our PacNW home-LOTS of rain and about 2-3 months of steady sun-but will be shaded/protected from full UV by a huge maple tree.
I'd love to retain (or achieve) that beautiful dark tone without having to redo the stain every year, but I'm guessing that's going to be impossible.
Thanks you for taking the time to show what the real deal it's about oil!
Over here at DeckWise, we do our best to educate our customers that Ipe Oil will not last forever. We always suggest a maintenance plan of every 8-12 months, depending on direct sun and the elements. However, a good tip for oiling hardwoods is focusing on the soak-time being the most important factor. (Plus the hardwood surface needs to be rid of mill scale and/or thoroughly cleaned prior.) Whereas, Ipe has tremendously tight wood grain, it’s tough to get an oil finish to penetrate and this is something users need to come to grips with. If a person’s wood knowledge or mindset is that of a softer wood, their expectations will not be set in the right place when finishing Ipe - or Cumaru, or Garapa, Massaranduba, and other tight grained hardwoods. Exotic hardwood grain and fibers need to be soaked for approx. 20 (+or-) minutes before wiping off the oil finish to allow for the best penetration possible. Plus, there is the horizontal and vertical application aspects that come into play here as well. Likewise yearly cleaning, brightening and re-oiling helps an oil finish penetrate deeper - year after year the oil finish continues to penetrate deeper with the natural oil of the hardwood and creates a buildup. It is true the expense of Ipe decking or siding is high... homeowners need to take care of it. There is no magic oil finish that will stand up to unrealistic expectations. One more insight here is that if a finish burns off and grays out completely, no sanding will need to be done. Simply clean, and brighten prior to re-oiling.
Thank you for posting this. I honestly thought I was going crazy. We have to (carefully) powerwash and oil our Ipe deck twice/ year and it's a difficult process, with short-lasting results. Glad to not waste my time trying any more of these products. I've been using the Deckwise Ipe Oil Plus and I guess I'll stick with it. :(
I've tried two of the products tested here in on my Ipe deck rail caps that are hard-hit by California sunshine, and my experience matches yours. Started with the Penofin after the wood was installed, then tried the DeckWise (and Part 1 cleaner) formulated for Ipe. Both are fairly pricey options, and both looked beautiful for the first couple months. But both faded almost completely within six to eight months, and the weathered gray is not a good look.
Thank you for the confirmation of the same experience we've had. Actually, we have a great appreciation for the Silvery Grey of our Cumaru (Ipe railings) deck. But once you bring back that natural richness.....POW! You're hooked on it again. Our deck has been on for 1 1/2 years, 2022 being the first full year. Like I said, I'd rather have the richness, hands down, but I think I tolerate the silver more than most people. But now that I'm through 2 winters, the boards are still intact but absolutely parched for moisture, so much so that I'm fearful they would progress to checking and cracking. So I"m dumping the oil on once again to condition more than for my yearning of the richness. Have always used the Messmer's UVPlus and it's a good product, but availability in Minnesota/Wisconsin area is NONE, so its straight to the internet. Thank you for this video, because now I can feel better about spending money on the other products that I can source more locally. I've worked with woods for 52 years and feel my expectations were pretty realistic based on my experience. But these woods are ....Exotic, different animals. So per your reply to the person acting like we're dumb for having unrealistic expectations about finishes and oils.....as you said we did (and do) have to rely on the manufacturers a bit, some of us more than others. I can put Linseed oil on a hickory axe handle or a shovel and leave it outside all summer and its fine as far as the elements vs the wood, (not the steel). But oiling a piece of hickory (a very hard wood) IS NOT oiling a piece of exotic hardwood that explodes with its natural colors with oil. That's their marketing ploy, and it works. But not for long. Are they liars? No. Are they liars, Absolutely. And I admit, despite their claims that I could likely get "a few years" out of it, I truly figured a penetrating oil in the elements would need to be done once a year. Not even close, if you want that rich awesome look, it'll be twice a year, and you'll watch it slowly fade each week between that. As far as the wood as a decking product goes, I feel there is no better product to invest in than these hardwoods....they WILL last. All the boardwalks on our coasts prove that.......but they're silver! If we want that rich natural look, we're going to have to work and pay for it. But I admit, I thought that would be once a year. I wish the producers of this would be a bit more honest about their "linseed oil" claims. UV protectants, my ass! Disclosure, I sourced my wood from Brazilian Wood Depot. He has a video that does make a very good attempt to show this and even says "about 6 months and they're looking for some more oil". He has several excellent videos to help you know what you can expect from these woods. I guess I just thought, oh well, 6 months of summer, and I'll redo it next year. He's in Georgia, I'm in Wisconsin, I figured I'd get a lot less sun......I guess don't. LOL. Thanks again.
Vids like these always amaze me. I’ve been finishing wood for years and here’s a harsh reality: NO product is going to withstand damage from the elements. If you’re waiting to apply Any product when it noticeably needs it, you waited way too long. It’s a constant process of sanding and reapplication throughout the year regardless of what you use.
nothing lasts forever BUT products for more traditional lumber give a much longer life for the amount effort required - years versus months.
Why do these vids amaze you? Don't you think people deserve to know this stuff BEFORE they apply these products? Consumers are constantly being fed BS and unrealistic expectations by the manufacturers and resellers of these type products. THE PEOPLE DESERVE TO KNOW 😁
I have Massaranduba decking and nothing works more than 3 months. Mesmers was great before they had to change VOC levels. So my deck looks horrible now. Hoping something comes out better soon.
how was application done on the instructions when at least 2 of them require reapplication 2 months, and then 6 months later?
i’m considering rubio monocoat for my ipe deck. it’s very popular as a woodworking finish and marketed by rubio to include deck. would be curious how it’d stack up in your comparison
Ouch. Deckwise has a PLUS version... Would that do better? (Probably not.) Also, would sanding with a harsher grit help with penetration? (I'm getting ready to put teak under a porch roof (otherwise known as a ceiling :) ) Vendor sold me the IPE Oil Plus. Hope it lasts longer that way.
Maybe do a test of simply recoating with the same product on half of each board.
Same experience I’ve had constant work and these sample piece never got walked on
You know these oils cost $$$$, most are linseed oil based. I had the pleasure of talking to the CEO of Sun Frog (probably the best deck and Siding sealer on the market in the USA) He came our and said, Ipe is a difficult wood the grains are so tight nothing really penetrates, and you end up wiping off most of the material you applied. So now I just use some tinted and thinned out linseed oil and rub it on with a rag. if I had access to Sun Frog, I would totally use that as my base... But unfortunately its not available in my area. if your in the western US go with the Sun Frog. ( I have not affiliation with them FYI, Just have had to refinish a lot of Redwood and IPE Decks in my Life time) Also Tide works great as a detergent for cleaning the deck. Tide and a stiff deck brush works really well at cleaning a deck before you oil. anyone that has a teak boat deck knows that little secrete.
yikes, just had mine done, the company didn't properly clean the beck and brighten it... its got old run stains all over it :( so dissapointing for a company that does this all day long. and the cost of the service.
Oof. That's disappointing! I'm applying messmers to a new deck tomorrow. Looks like it will be a 2x per year gig. Ugh.
Wowsers
Something is off. I have used Penofin Red Label for 25 years on Redwood, Pine, Firs, etc. never seen it turn grey until small sections in direct sunlight after 15 years. And I am confident that if I had performed any maintenance, that graying would not have occurred.
Did you prepare the wood with a cleaner and brightener? Or even just sand with 220 grit and get the wood wet a few days earlier to open the pores? Really hard wood needs the sheen sanded off and then use water (or better a cleaner mixed in water and washed off) to open the pores. Some of that rainforest iron wood needs additional prep, or the oils cannot penetrate deep enough.
Brazilian hardwoods (this test is performed on massaranduba) are a very different beast than redwood, pine, firs, etc... The grain is exponentially tighter. And it should be sanded with 60-80 grit to enhance absorption - no higher than 100. And water alone does not help to open the pores...
I realize that in some beautiful places hardwood, in this case Ipe, are common, but if you had used soft pressure-treated pine those of us in North America could have profited more. Pressure-treated pine absorbs a lot more oil so you could have drawn some stronger conclusions about them. Ipe is too hard and resinous and so is largely resistant to absorbing 'significant' amounts of any oil except cosmetically, and what it does draw in too soon flashes off.
A LOT of homes in North America use brazilian hardwoods. Our deck in SW Colorado is Garapa. Just refinished it today.
My ipe deck is 12=years old and looks like crap, every year it’s harder to sand and I have used all of those products, they all are crap