Thank you for the video, I'm just getting into lead casting and have refined my 20 lbs of used lead twice now. Most of my lead pucks have big dimples along the bottom and sides, i was curious to what might cause this, i tried pre heating my muffin pan and ive allowed my lead to heat a bit longer before pouring with a little bit of improvement but the voids are still there.
Many years ago I used to work in a Printing metal foundry and ran 10 tons at a time through. We used Sulphur as a flux then cleared the sulphur with Caustic Soda. Hord and dangerous work but I was a LOT younger then !
I have 900 lbs of reclaimed shot in my garage that I’m willing to sell. It’s clean lead with 6% antimony. I also feel compelled to say be very careful, lead poisoning is real and very difficult to get out of your system.
Uh, I think you may have overfilled those molds a bit. Those are supposed to be four individual blocks per pour, two half-pound and two one-pound ingots.
@@honeyandherbshomestead8976 If you pour enough, you'll realize how much time, effort and counter space you waste stacking. I fill 5gal buckets halfway with cornbread ear ingot and then nest the buckets. If you stack your lead in perfect, identical rows, you may want to mention it to your therapist.
I cast for 12ga musket ammo. For some reason no matter how well I flux the pot seems to have a thin blue film on top, never hurt the casting or accuracy with rifled choke tube. Do you get odd colors on top when smelting too?
If you are not having a problem with the final product (good fill out in mold, soft 3-4 bhn etc) then you are probably getting the lead too hot and it is quickly oxidizing at the surface. It gives that blue, sometimes rainbow-like film. If you are not using pure lead, and get it too hot, sometimes the colours or surface film is the tin and/or antimony. You would then flux and stir it back in before casting.
The more you take that blue (then gold) surface off, the more it will come back. It's oxidation and occurs at high temps. That being said, lead I've from Rotometals always has an excessive amount of a light blue, almost rubbery material that emerges as it melts. My paranoid friend swears it's markers from the FFA.
Technically, depending on how old the lead is, plumbers lead is considered an alloy with tin, however it is usually such a small amount that I would just consider it "pure". Separating most common impurities (calcium, arsenic, antimony,bismuth, copper,zinc etc.) from lead alloys is not hard, but tin is a huge pain from what I've read and attempted myself. Plumbers lead to me is as good as pure. Good video!
@@hendonburgism all the reloading and casting info I have read just calls plumbers lead pure, so that's what I was going by. Caster's usually call it "making an alloy" when they add wheel weights, tin, antimony etc. But if my plumbers lead really is a mixture, then I guess Silson is technically correct.
Forgive me, if I came off as rude. I wasn't trying to defend what silson said (I'm not entirely certain on wether he is stating an opinion or asking a question) simply offering my opinion to the purity of the lead you were melting. I do a lot of iron, copper, and low temperature white and fusible alloy etc. castings. 3 months ago I got really into making this odd japanese bronze that needed "pure" lead to be alloyed correctly and doing different tests on various scrap lead sources, plumbers lead being one of them. I found that most scrap lead is alloyed a little bit with other metals ie tin,antimony etc. For someone casting bullets it is not enough to matter, and plumbers lead would indeed be considered "pure", similar to stick on (not clip on) wheel weights.
I respect you’re using a thermometer to control the batch temp.
make a small C shaped wind shield, helps heat up faster and stop the wind also cooling the pot.
Thank you for the video, I'm just getting into lead casting and have refined my 20 lbs of used lead twice now. Most of my lead pucks have big dimples along the bottom and sides, i was curious to what might cause this, i tried pre heating my muffin pan and ive allowed my lead to heat a bit longer before pouring with a little bit of improvement but the voids are still there.
Very excellent Video sir. Just what I was looking for.
Make sure sawdust is compleatly dry
Many years ago I used to work in a Printing metal foundry and ran 10 tons at a time through. We used Sulphur as a flux then cleared the sulphur with Caustic Soda. Hord and dangerous work but I was a LOT younger then !
I have 900 lbs of reclaimed shot in my garage that I’m willing to sell. It’s clean lead with 6% antimony. I also feel compelled to say be very careful, lead poisoning is real and very difficult to get out of your system.
Do you still have this?
@@almiller1371 yes
How to make lead jointer which is use to put on zincore sheets or how to make zincore jointer
Robert Plant would be proud......Led Zeppelin.....Get it ??....Get it ???
Basic nice setup
Great video
Thank you!
Hello Sir..
if there is some coppers in solder dross how can we remove that copper from our solder at the time of melting
A mixture of iron pyrite and sulfur will decopper effectively
I'm curious what sort of lead levels are in your body. Surely can't be good to be near such fumes for so long.
He's outside and can see the wind taking the fumes away from him. FFS your comment shows an overly fearful person
Is there a benefit to keeping them connected?
Just makes it easier to stack and store
What's the type of material you used to puring lead ?
For fluxing I used saw dust
you can also use candle wax, at least thats was other youtubers were using as well
Uh, I think you may have overfilled those molds a bit. Those are supposed to be four individual blocks per pour, two half-pound and two one-pound ingots.
Ya, done on purpose. I just need it cleaned and in a form I can easily stack for storage.
@@honeyandherbshomestead8976 If you pour enough, you'll realize how much time, effort and counter space you waste stacking. I fill 5gal buckets halfway with cornbread ear ingot and then nest the buckets. If you stack your lead in perfect, identical rows, you may want to mention it to your therapist.
you should be wearing some heavy gloves or welsing gloves to protect your hands!
Are you his Mama?
lead is about camp fire hot. Those gloves are probably more than enough.
where did you buy the pot
Amazon
I cast for 12ga musket ammo.
For some reason no matter how well I flux the pot seems to have a thin blue film on top, never hurt the casting or accuracy with rifled choke tube.
Do you get odd colors on top when smelting too?
If you are not having a problem with the final product (good fill out in mold, soft 3-4 bhn etc) then you are probably getting the lead too hot and it is quickly oxidizing at the surface. It gives that blue, sometimes rainbow-like film.
If you are not using pure lead, and get it too hot, sometimes the colours or surface film is the tin and/or antimony. You would then flux and stir it back in before casting.
The more you take that blue (then gold) surface off, the more it will come back. It's oxidation and occurs at high temps. That being said, lead I've from Rotometals always has an excessive amount of a light blue, almost rubbery material that emerges as it melts. My paranoid friend swears it's markers from the FFA.
How to make lead alloy
This is not an alloy. Alloys are a mixture of metals. This is pure plumbers lead.
Technically, depending on how old the lead is, plumbers lead is considered an alloy with tin, however it is usually such a small amount that I would just consider it "pure". Separating most common impurities (calcium, arsenic, antimony,bismuth, copper,zinc etc.) from lead alloys is not hard, but tin is a huge pain from what I've read and attempted myself. Plumbers lead to me is as good as pure.
Good video!
@@hendonburgism all the reloading and casting info I have read just calls plumbers lead pure, so that's what I was going by. Caster's usually call it "making an alloy" when they add wheel weights, tin, antimony etc. But if my plumbers lead really is a mixture, then I guess Silson is technically correct.
Forgive me, if I came off as rude. I wasn't trying to defend what silson said (I'm not entirely certain on wether he is stating an opinion or asking a question) simply offering my opinion to the purity of the lead you were melting. I do a lot of iron, copper, and low temperature white and fusible alloy etc. castings. 3 months ago I got really into making this odd japanese bronze that needed "pure" lead to be alloyed correctly and doing different tests on various scrap lead sources, plumbers lead being one of them. I found that most scrap lead is alloyed a little bit with other metals ie tin,antimony etc. For someone casting bullets it is not enough to matter, and plumbers lead would indeed be considered "pure", similar to stick on (not clip on) wheel weights.
What type of sawdust are you using?
I built a utility shelf out of regular 2*4 and just used what I swept up.
👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏
Are you stacking to sell
No, personal use. Easier to store when it is stackable
Is that a baby in the background? Dude, come on.
Neighbors kid and dog
@@honeyandherbshomestead8976 no need to answer to dumb people