I appreciate you making this video. I have used it 3 or 4 times because I keep making changes to my motor, and the Ford service manual instructions are more confusing than they are helpful.
@@cody317645you mean firing sequence and cam profile ? That’s determined by the lobes on the camshaft. The way the chains are setup wouldn’t be that different if not identical.
Good observation! To make the sequence work in the video, I actually flipped the image horizontally and used video of the right side head for this portion (note how I'm torquing the fasteners "counterclockwise!" Just ignore the inconsistency. The data labels will "naturally" sit where they want to sit during the process from valve spring tension.
Hi. What is that tool used to turn the crankshaft? Also is there a tool/jig to align the camshaft to the decklid? Does it need to be precise or just approximate?
Good question! This is the tool I bought: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085FRTWR9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As far as holding the camshafts, they pretty much stay in that position. You just need to use a large adjustable wrench to "tweak" them a little to get the phasors to line up. No special tool needed.
It's a great video I've got a 2012 mustang GT I'm a little bit confused about the timing marks because of I'm a perfectionist when it says the timing has to be right on I mean I have to be right on I know that I'm using old timing chain as far as the big one goes on the on the crankshaft but it's really got me confused right now
@@Mustang-Geek well the timing chains okay or the old timing chains that I have that are still on my car the original timing chains now the the cam chains are new. Okay the old timing chains are still on the car and I guess they're loose enough to where the timing marks are not really lining up correctly but me and my dog has been stranded for over a month up here in fort Worth at a parking lot right by the Trinity River I bought new cam change like I said I bought a new tensioner and guide for left cylinder head. I still need to torque down the cam caps and the phasers and get it in time and I'm still not there yet?
@@Mustang-Geek what is explaining whenever that secondary cam chain broke and it's going to run like shit before he says but it was running when I killed it and it ran like shit but at least it ran and I could start it back up even though it was popping to the tailpipes it would still go down the road I don't know how many valves are being or broke or whatever but I know that it was running
Is there a reason why the sec chain tensioner go on from top to bottom? I just watched another video and the installer put them from bottom to top with the attached tab on tbe bottom? Also on one of the comments they tell him if he installed them like that the tensioners wont have any oil going through them. Thanks
The marks on the drive chains indicate phase. In other words the mark on the drive sprocket indicates the chain. It's "X" many links from there to the driven sprocket on the cam phasers.
When you turn the keyway from the 5 o'clock position to the 12 o'clock position, you make one full rotation back to 5 THEN to 12 correct? Installing OPGs and whipple right now and just finished timing motor
I'm not sure what you're referring to. In the video, I start at the 9 o'clock position, then go to the 12 o'clock position. Where are you getting "5 o'clock position?"
@Mustang-Geek i took off the passenger side timing chain as per the Ford service manual. Then i take off the drivers side timing chain with the keyway positioned at 5 o'clock. After installing the drivers side chain back on, Ford says, "Rotate crank keyway one full revolution to 12 o'clock," then install passenger timing chain. This is on the gen 3 Mustang Coyote.
Great video, thank you. Question: what is the power that this timing kit with the boss 302 items rated for? I know a heavy duty secondary chain may be necessary.. but at what point the does the VCT become an issue in terms of power
Great question. I don't have an answer for that, but I do know that these engines can handle well above 1000 horsepower. Unless you're hitting that range, I wouldn't worry about it!
After you install them, you need to press them down to release the spring tension! Then they "pop up" and tension the chains just like the standard versions.
Are you talking about the secondary tensioners, up between the phasers? That's the tensioner that I'm talking about. If you remove the long GT tensioner and install the Boss 302 secondary tensioner in its place I noticed that I no longer have a guy at the bottom because the boss 302 secondary chain tensioner it's not long enough to protrude out of the bottom therefore not allowing me to put the metal clip on, which in turn is not allowing me to put any kind of guide or support for the bottom of the secondary timing chain.
What is going wrong if after I follow this procedure and rotate the engine by hand , the timing chains are jumping teeth ? Or am I not supposed to rotate the engine at all after.
I only had to remove the RH Right Head on my 5.0 coyote.. prodemand says I have to put back in the same place but I noticed the timing on the LH is off.. should I just retime the whole motor following this procedure?
Did you have to put the engine in TDC on compression stroke specifically? This is exactly where I’m at. I got the cams back in and torqued down. They were installed in the neutral position. I used ALLDATA for my work, never mentioned anything about TDC when it came to this point of installation. Cannot find anything online.
@@jamesphillips9272 no need to worry about TDC! Do it just like they said. I rebuilt the upper engine and it’s running like a champ! I had a misfire cylinder 8 P0308 code. Valve was razor sharp.
Good question. I haven't built one, but you should check a repair manual for that procedure. I suspect it is very similar, but the fastener torque specs are likely different, etc.
@WesDuenkel I'm thinking the same, saw some photos and the markings looked identical. I want to assume the procedure, like clocking the crank to 9 o clock, then 12 may be the same. Pretty cool too see nevertheless
Hmmm. First, see if they fit with the chains removed. Then, use a big wrench to slightly wiggle the cams back and forth as you install the phasers. That should help them wiggle into place.
@@Mustang-Geek I can get them to seat all the way without the chains but with the chains it won’t. If one of the dowels lines up the other one won’t. But I guess moving the cam would fix that. Was just unsure if I could adjust the cam
@ I will need to look in my manual for a 2018 model. I’ll take a look and let you know in a few days. Unfortunately I don’t have access to the manual right now.
Question. I'm installing cams on my gen 1 and you say to have the data labels pointed up. When I'm doing this my cam phasers don't line up. Do I turn the exhaust cam till It lines up with them? If I turn it then the data label is on the side. FYI intake cams are stock an exhaust is the boss 302 cams.
Hmmmm...not sure on that. Maybe your chains aren't lined up, or the Boss cams have a different phasing. Regardless, refer to a shop manual (there is one online. Google it), and set up the chains exactly like the manual says. Give that a shot.
So, I have recently done a 3-2-1 build. I have done this exact same process. I keep getting cam codes. P2014, P2015, and P2024. Can exhaust cam to far advanced, and 2015 is too far retarded. It replaced the timing set for a second time. Has brand new vvt solenoids on it. I have pax 1217x valve springs. Would you have any ideal why he keeps kicking these codes.
I noticed the boss302 secondary tensioners are shorter, did you reuse the metal piece on the bottom side of the secondary tensioner or just the plastic chain guide
The Boss secondary tensioners are retracted. You have to PUSH THEM DOWN after installation to release the spring tension! The shop manual doesn't even mention this, so don't forget to do this!
@@Mustang-Geek yes i noticed that, but i mean like the actual body of the tensioner is shorter and the bottom piece of the tensioner(little metal piece) doesn't slide onto the the bottom of the tensioner so i was wondering if you don't use the metal piece with the boss 302 tensioners
@@texaseliteperformance4471 Hmmm. I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to. On my car, the Boss secondary tensioners were a direct replacement for the GT parts. From memory, I reused the factory plastic guide on the bottom. You can see it at 1:30.
@@texaseliteperformance4471I am running into the same issue you mentioned on my build currently. The tensioner body of the boss 302 tensioner is too short and doesn’t allow for the lower guide to clip on. I spoke with ford performance and MMR but nobody has any info. I was wondering if you every figured this out.
@@samrodriguez1082 yes just leave that middle piece out, you don't need anymore , already did multiple cars making 700+hp no issues. And the new coyotes come like that
I work on my own cars, and every time I think about getting a car, truck, or SUV with DOHC I look up this procedure on the vehicle I'm interested in.... Mustang GT is a solid no for me.
I use to be just like u but I have realized that the 5.0 really is a great engine it might not be as simple as a pushrod v8 but to reach new levels you must try new things and that’s what Ford did with the 5.0 truly an amazing engine
This is why gm v8 Engines are way more valuable since the timing is so so so simple and a single cam just way way less engineering but great power so I’m definitely not ever getting a Ford
The single cam is not "great power." If you haven't noticed, GM has to use 6.2 liters to achieve similar power to Ford's 5.0L. I also have no idea where you get the "more valuable" thing
I appreciate you making this video.
I have used it 3 or 4 times because I keep making changes to my motor, and the Ford service manual instructions are more confusing than they are helpful.
Great! Glad it helps. Please like, subscribe, and share this video!
This and a few other videos helped me do the same job on an F150 2011 5.0 Thanks.
Great!
Really? A 3 minute video was helpful to do a 8 hour job ?
@@johnanderson71 Is a 20 minutes work when everything is new
Just had to replace a cam phaser on an f150, this video made it so easy! Thanks
Glad it helped!!! Please share!
The f150 timing is diffrent. How did it work?
@@cody317645you mean firing sequence and cam profile ? That’s determined by the lobes on the camshaft. The way the chains are setup wouldn’t be that different if not identical.
I appreciate the video but at 1:06 you show both data matrix slightly angled but the very next scene they look parallel with the head?
Good observation! To make the sequence work in the video, I actually flipped the image horizontally and used video of the right side head for this portion (note how I'm torquing the fasteners "counterclockwise!" Just ignore the inconsistency. The data labels will "naturally" sit where they want to sit during the process from valve spring tension.
Thanks for the video! Very easy to follow along.
Glad it helped! "Tell your friends." :)
Hi. What is that tool used to turn the crankshaft? Also is there a tool/jig to align the camshaft to the decklid? Does it need to be precise or just approximate?
Good question! This is the tool I bought: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085FRTWR9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As far as holding the camshafts, they pretty much stay in that position. You just need to use a large adjustable wrench to "tweak" them a little to get the phasors to line up. No special tool needed.
Fantastic, only video shiws how to line cams up to matrix , perfect
Yes, this is per the factory manual. Please like and desribe!
@@Mustang-Geek I subscribed, and liked,
@@mfjones2217 Thanks! Every little bit helps get the word out to help other Mustang nerds like us!
It's a great video I've got a 2012 mustang GT I'm a little bit confused about the timing marks because of I'm a perfectionist when it says the timing has to be right on I mean I have to be right on I know that I'm using old timing chain as far as the big one goes on the on the crankshaft but it's really got me confused right now
Sorry, specifically: what are you confused about? Maybe I can help.
@@Mustang-Geek well the timing chains okay or the old timing chains that I have that are still on my car the original timing chains now the the cam chains are new. Okay the old timing chains are still on the car and I guess they're loose enough to where the timing marks are not really lining up correctly but me and my dog has been stranded for over a month up here in fort Worth at a parking lot right by the Trinity River I bought new cam change like I said I bought a new tensioner and guide for left cylinder head. I still need to torque down the cam caps and the phasers and get it in time and I'm still not there yet?
@@DeeAnderson-em5pr The marks should all line up if you remove the tensioners and use an adjustable wrench to move the cams slightly.
@@Mustang-Geek yeah I did that but I am waiting for a mobile mechanic to come out
@@Mustang-Geek what is explaining whenever that secondary cam chain broke and it's going to run like shit before he says but it was running when I killed it and it ran like shit but at least it ran and I could start it back up even though it was popping to the tailpipes it would still go down the road I don't know how many valves are being or broke or whatever but I know that it was running
do you have links for the actuators and timing assembly ?
this is great content !
I've added links to the parts in the description. Thanks for the question.
Is there a reason why the sec chain tensioner go on from top to bottom? I just watched another video and the installer put them from bottom to top with the attached tab on tbe bottom? Also on one of the comments they tell him if he installed them like that the tensioners wont have any oil going through them. Thanks
I'm not sure. I know this all worked for me!
Hello. Great video. When you make sure the crank sprocket is at 9 o’clock, do you have to make sure number 1 piston is at TDC? Thanks
I don't think it matters. None of the pistons are at TDC during this process so the valves clear...I think.
The marks on the drive chains indicate phase. In other words the mark on the drive sprocket indicates the chain. It's "X" many links from there to the driven sprocket on the cam phasers.
The only time you have to do it manually is to lockout the cams and manually set the cams
When you turn the keyway from the 5 o'clock position to the 12 o'clock position, you make one full rotation back to 5 THEN to 12 correct? Installing OPGs and whipple right now and just finished timing motor
I'm not sure what you're referring to. In the video, I start at the 9 o'clock position, then go to the 12 o'clock position. Where are you getting "5 o'clock position?"
@Mustang-Geek i took off the passenger side timing chain as per the Ford service manual. Then i take off the drivers side timing chain with the keyway positioned at 5 o'clock. After installing the drivers side chain back on, Ford says, "Rotate crank keyway one full revolution to 12 o'clock," then install passenger timing chain. This is on the gen 3 Mustang Coyote.
@@DevonTK707 OH, I'm not familiar with a Gen 3. The procedure may indeed be different.
Really cool video! Thank you!
Happy to help!
Great video, thank you.
Question: what is the power that this timing kit with the boss 302 items rated for? I know a heavy duty secondary chain may be necessary.. but at what point the does the VCT become an issue in terms of power
Great question. I don't have an answer for that, but I do know that these engines can handle well above 1000 horsepower. Unless you're hitting that range, I wouldn't worry about it!
How did you install a boss 302 secondary timing chain tensioners? They're shorter than the GT tensioners.
After you install them, you need to press them down to release the spring tension! Then they "pop up" and tension the chains just like the standard versions.
@@Mustang-GeekYes but now after pressing 302 tensioners down and releasing the spring now there's no guide at the bottom.
@@bigmotoxer Re-use your original bottom guide. It's shown in place at 2:34 in the video.
Are you talking about the secondary tensioners, up between the phasers? That's the tensioner that I'm talking about. If you remove the long GT tensioner and install the Boss 302 secondary tensioner in its place I noticed that I no longer have a guy at the bottom because the boss 302 secondary chain tensioner it's not long enough to protrude out of the bottom therefore not allowing me to put the metal clip on, which in turn is not allowing me to put any kind of guide or support for the bottom of the secondary timing chain.
@@bigmotoxer The clips are there on the Boss parts. Look at 0:19. Maybe your Boss tensioners aren't seated all the way?
When reinstalling the cover did you install new gasket and seal ?
Yes, check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/UIpJT4QfjXw/v-deo.htmlsi=CAlPRvBrgVQvO8aF
What is going wrong if after I follow this procedure and rotate the engine by hand , the timing chains are jumping teeth ? Or am I not supposed to rotate the engine at all after.
Are your tensioners installed? The change should not jump teeth with the tensioners installed.
Is it actually jumping time? Or are the chains just jolting?
@@El_Guero801 That's a fair point.
Does piston number 1 have to be top dead center ? For timing assembly.
No, but you need to follow the video.
Did you reuse your old phasers?
Yes. I cleaned the filters and re-used the phasers.
Is the gen 3 coyote the same
Honestly, I don't know. I imagine it would be.
I only had to remove the RH Right Head on my 5.0 coyote.. prodemand says I have to put back in the same place but I noticed the timing on the LH is off.. should I just retime the whole motor following this procedure?
Good question. Seems like re-timing the whole motor is a good idea if the other head seems off. Check all the timing marks!!!
Did you have to put the engine in TDC on compression stroke specifically? This is exactly where I’m at. I got the cams back in and torqued down. They were installed in the neutral position. I used ALLDATA for my work, never mentioned anything about TDC when it came to this point of installation. Cannot find anything online.
No, use the tool to position the crankshaft as shown in the video. Ignore TDC.
Same for f150 coyote?@@Mustang-Geek
How'd things work out? I was wondering about TDC
@@jamesphillips9272 no need to worry about TDC! Do it just like they said. I rebuilt the upper engine and it’s running like a champ! I had a misfire cylinder 8 P0308 code. Valve was razor sharp.
I put the the small timing marks backwards what will be the issue
Please give me an advice
I'm not sure, but I'd tear it apart and start over. You CAN'T mess around with cam timing.
@@Mustang-Geek I did this morning only take me like 1hr and 30 mins
Is this 1st gen or 2nd gen
First gen.
Is this similar to gen 3 coyotes?
Good question. I haven't built one, but you should check a repair manual for that procedure. I suspect it is very similar, but the fastener torque specs are likely different, etc.
@WesDuenkel I'm thinking the same, saw some photos and the markings looked identical. I want to assume the procedure, like clocking the crank to 9 o clock, then 12 may be the same. Pretty cool too see nevertheless
I can’t seem to get my cam phasers to seat all the way is there anything I should do differently?
Hmmm. First, see if they fit with the chains removed. Then, use a big wrench to slightly wiggle the cams back and forth as you install the phasers. That should help them wiggle into place.
@@Mustang-Geek I can get them to seat all the way without the chains but with the chains it won’t. If one of the dowels lines up the other one won’t. But I guess moving the cam would fix that. Was just unsure if I could adjust the cam
@@Jeremyf98 Yes, just rotate one of the cams a little until they slide on.
Gen 3 coyote is the same?
I'm not sure. I've never worked on one, but I'd be surprised if it was significantly different.
Good evening, I have a question. Your answer will be pleasant. This synchronization would work for a Ford Lariat F150 5.0
What year?
@@Mustang-Geek 2018
I’ll have to look it up.
@@Mustang-Geek I have a 2018 need help is this the same procedure??
@ I will need to look in my manual for a 2018 model. I’ll take a look and let you know in a few days. Unfortunately I don’t have access to the manual right now.
Question. I'm installing cams on my gen 1 and you say to have the data labels pointed up. When I'm doing this my cam phasers don't line up. Do I turn the exhaust cam till It lines up with them? If I turn it then the data label is on the side. FYI intake cams are stock an exhaust is the boss 302 cams.
Hmmmm...not sure on that. Maybe your chains aren't lined up, or the Boss cams have a different phasing. Regardless, refer to a shop manual (there is one online. Google it), and set up the chains exactly like the manual says. Give that a shot.
Good video, thank you
You got it!
Can the secondary tensioners be replaced without having to remove the cam sprockets?
Good question! In order to replace the tensioner, you need to remove the chain. To remove the chain, you have to remove the VVT sprockets.
Looking to do this myself. Anything I should be worried of?
No, just PAY ATTENTION and make sure the timing marks are lined up!
amazing video . the way that is explained is superb. is it the same for 2015 mustang 5.0 ? thanks
Thanks! Like and subscribe :)
@@Mustang-Geek done
Can this be done with the engine installed?
Yes. Just not as easily!
Hi,
What did you use to lift the engine out of the car?
I bought some engine lift plates for Coyote engines off of ebay and used a load leveler for the engine hoist.
Thanks for the response.
Keep the great videos up ;)
Did you use new cam cap bolts ?😅
@@ueberhopft4278 No, technically the old bolts can be re-used a couple times.
So, I have recently done a 3-2-1 build. I have done this exact same process. I keep getting cam codes. P2014, P2015, and P2024. Can exhaust cam to far advanced, and 2015 is too far retarded. It replaced the timing set for a second time. Has brand new vvt solenoids on it. I have pax 1217x valve springs. Would you have any ideal why he keeps kicking these codes.
Wow, I don't. I'd check with some Coyote engine builders and ask them. Off the top of my head: MMR, Livernois, Modular Head Shop.
Is this procedure for Gen 1 or Gen2 Coyote engines? I am sure there is a difference in the timing procedure between Gen1 and Gen2 engines
Check your shop manual to be sure!
Good vid
I appreciate it! Please like and subscribe!
Will this work for a gen 3 coyote (currently building mine)
I've never built a Gen 3, so I'm not sure. I'd suspect it's very similar.
I noticed the boss302 secondary tensioners are shorter, did you reuse the metal piece on the bottom side of the secondary tensioner or just the plastic chain guide
The Boss secondary tensioners are retracted. You have to PUSH THEM DOWN after installation to release the spring tension! The shop manual doesn't even mention this, so don't forget to do this!
@@Mustang-Geek yes i noticed that, but i mean like the actual body of the tensioner is shorter and the bottom piece of the tensioner(little metal piece) doesn't slide onto the the bottom of the tensioner so i was wondering if you don't use the metal piece with the boss 302 tensioners
@@texaseliteperformance4471 Hmmm. I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to. On my car, the Boss secondary tensioners were a direct replacement for the GT parts. From memory, I reused the factory plastic guide on the bottom. You can see it at 1:30.
@@texaseliteperformance4471I am running into the same issue you mentioned on my build currently. The tensioner body of the boss 302 tensioner is too short and doesn’t allow for the lower guide to clip on. I spoke with ford performance and MMR but nobody has any info. I was wondering if you every figured this out.
@@samrodriguez1082 yes just leave that middle piece out, you don't need anymore , already did multiple cars making 700+hp no issues. And the new coyotes come like that
Is this for 11-14 coyotes ?
Exactly. But I suspect Gen 2 and Gen 3 are similar.
I really appreciate
Glad you liked it! Please like and subscribe!
Good
I work on my own cars, and every time I think about getting a car, truck, or SUV with DOHC I look up this procedure on the vehicle I'm interested in.... Mustang GT is a solid no for me.
Okie doke! Please like and subscribe!
Weak!
Don't be intimated by a little work lol. Grow a pair, you know you want to!
I use to be just like u but I have realized that the 5.0 really is a great engine it might not be as simple as a pushrod v8 but to reach new levels you must try new things and that’s what Ford did with the 5.0 truly an amazing engine
Just about all cars are overhead cams these days. I've seen coyotes push 8500 rpms drag racing,and no bent push rods is a plus
It looks intimidating but it’s actually pretty easy
This is why gm v8 Engines are way more valuable since the timing is so so so simple and a single cam just way way less engineering but great power so I’m definitely not ever getting a Ford
Thanks for watching the video! Please like and subscribe.
You end up paying for that with fuel costs. The NA 5.0 efficiency is better than anything GM has put in the Camaro.
The single cam is not "great power." If you haven't noticed, GM has to use 6.2 liters to achieve similar power to Ford's 5.0L. I also have no idea where you get the "more valuable" thing
Very profecional job.👍
Thanks! Please like and subscribe ;)