How to replace fuel injectors in Peugeot 307 1.6 petrol (NFU engine; TU5JP4; 2007)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 бер 2021
- All the details needed to change the 4 fuel injectors in NFU or TU5JP4 1.6L 16v 110bhp petrol Peugeot/Citroen engines.
The car is a Peugeot 307 (2007; 1.6L 16v petrol; 110bhp; ~47,000miles; TU5JP4 engine). This should be the same in Citroen with the same 1.6 petrol engines.
This video will show you all the details needed to change the 4 injectors in these 1.6L petrol engines. Once you have replaced them there is no need to prime or do anything. Just fire up the car and it should start without a problem. Here are the components that I used.
The trim tools: amzn.to/48QCahd (amazon UK) or ebay: ebay.us/WNuyRn
PB Blaster penetrating oil (amazon UK): amzn.to/3sYQFu3 or ebay: ebay.us/4dbd92
Endoscope camera (amazon UK): amzn.to/3ViW8LU or ebay: ebay.us/uE0F6k
My hot staple tool is unbranded and all of these are nearly the same, so you can purchase the cheapest possible, the quality will be the same.
I bought the plastic repair device (amazon UK): amzn.to/3Kx9HBB or ebay: ebay.us/N0jL4h
The injectors are Bosch with part number: 0280158057. I bought them from autodoc.co.uk (www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/1150430) or amazon (amzn.to/3kOiToL) or ebay: ebay.us/kMBJCz. Make sure the Bosch injectors include the rubber o-rings and measure ~12ohms resistance (+/-0.5ohms).
The air-intake manifold seals www.autodoc.co.uk/ajusa/2090295. Unfortunately, I found that these are way too tight and stick out too much. These are the only ones that are supposed to fit. I re-used the old ones, but if you want replacements, these are the ones to use.
If you find this video useful, buy me a coffee: www.paypal.com/paypalme/morem...
All my car-related purchases: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/moremol...
#TU5JP4 #Injectors #Peugeot307 #PSA
Disclaimer:
Use the information provided in this video at Your Own Risk. More molecules provides this video for informational purposes only and assumes no liability for any damage or loss incurred as a result of the use of the information or tools presented in this video. The information provided here may contain inaccuracies and more molecules cannot guarantee the correctness or reliability of the content.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. As such I have included affiliate links that may earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. I am an independent youtuber and I am in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative.
As an Ebay Partner when you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network. - Авто та транспорт
Man, i freaking love you. All the process is simple, but having someone doing it before you actually do it - and putting in the extra effort to film and share it - simply makes things 10 times easier and gives you the courage to do it. Thank you from a peugeot lover all the way from Brazil.
Hey Humberto, many thanks indeed for your comment, I really appreciated it! Really made my day, at least one person benefitted from the video.
Thanks man, very helpful video, and loved your trick of taping nuts to needle nose pliers, that pinch connection was killing me!
Excelent tutorial. Step by step clear and simple. Thank you very much
You explained what you did very well I think. I have a 206 automatic with the same engine and after seeing what you did I believe I could do it as well. Thanks
Good luck John, I was a bit apprehensive when started doing this, but it was not too difficult. Hope the video helps.
Superb gives me confidence to attempt. Have same engine in elderly Berlingo
I can not thank you . My car had coolant leak from the back pipe of the engine and for accesing that you should take out the intake manifold. Great video keep up the good work
Es el
Mejor vídeo explicativo que he visto en mi vida, gracias ! ❤
Excellent!! Very informative video....well done 👍🙂
best job from france , i will follow your method for 1.6 vti , thanks!
Hi romain, it should be the same procedure, although there might be some differences with the vti. Good luck.
thank you for a good clear video as usual, it's a big job just to change the injectors, it is all getting to be a bit ridiculous.
Thank you for the good words and support. It was not too bad actually, although a lot of parts need to be taken off before doing the actual injectors. I had to replace the rear exhaust on this car and that was some struggle, the bolts had rusted so badly that the thread had gone and with extremely tight space I spent 3 days filing it with a really tiny file. That was some effort.
Hi! It's no need to remove wipers, just remove a plastic intake grids on both sides. You will be able to lift that plastic cover, just lift wipers in service position.
Thanks Aleksandr, that is really good advice. It will be easier to remove it with removing this plastic intake grids.
@@moremolecules could you tell me where would you put a vacuums line for a turbo boost gage on this engine I’ve got the same engine in my 308 I’ve asked people and looked my self but everybody says different many thanks
Euan
@@euanmurphy1435 This engine does not have a turbo, it is naturally aspirated engine, so no boost as with the turbo ones. If you want to put a line to measure boost of sorts (not the same as turbo engines) I would say the the collector box, but I suspect you have to drill a hole and put one in there. Then again, this particular model does not have a turbo, so no point of putting a line in there.
Best tutorials, vrey much thanx man!!!
Splendid works.. Thanks dude!
Very good job.Greetings from Poland.
Muy bueno el video! Muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos!
Gracias por el comentario, realmente apreciado
Deam this video saved me a lot of money thank you!
Glad it has helped 🙂
thxs for this great movie of yours.....i,m gonna start right now with the replacement of my injectors....thxs
Good luck, it is relative easy one you know how to do it and they are relatively cheap these injectors. Did not have any luck with replacing the gaskets, but the old ones worked alright.
You're Kind Of Guy. Well done.
Very good and useful
Thanks
I have peugeot 207xs with same engine, and just unscrewed all of the screws except that one nut on the left side 😑 it feels like impossible to unscrew it & there’s no space for your hands to turn the wrench
very useful video btw 👌🏻
Yes, there is little space there to undo those screws/nuts. Small wrench, socket, etc., try to fit something in there. I know it is a tight space.
Good video, thanks a lot
Thank you very much !!
thank you for this vidéo
Merci, cela m'a beaucoup aidé.
de rien, content que cela ait aidé
Very good thanks
thank you
Thanks for all the videos you have posted, you've helped me out a number of times.. great work!
Is there any video of you exchanging the fuel injectors on the HDi model? (1.6hdi 06 plate ti be precise :) )
i've seen the testing the fuel injectors video..
Hi Colin, unfortunately no, I do not have a video for the injectors. It just has not happened yet with my car.
Is roughly the same process as with the petrol?
@@colinsmith9950 Unfortunately no, it is much more complex. They tend to seize inside, so it could be much more work as compared to petrol engines.
Great video thanks. However, you can get acess to the injectors by undoing the screws on the intake manifold, but not all the way, and push it back, then you can take the injector jail off from the side. You can also take the intake manifold off without messing with the tray above by taking it out from the side (battery removed). Cheers!
Thank you for the good comment. I could not see how I can take them out without removing it all together, my hands are not that small and I wanted to make sure the injectors have clicked in correctly.
Oh my my. Ive been dealing with my 407's 2.2 petrol engine for like 2 years and it was not real fun.. until I saw your video. Was that all trouble just for injector replacement? I kinda LOVE my engine now.
Yes, it was just for the injectors, but it was not that difficult to be honest. There have been much harder things :-)
Hi i love your videos 👍
But i have a question did you need to use diagbox or pp2000 after you change them ? And for the trottle body?
I also have another problem with the steering assist sometimes in turns it blocks the steering wheel like an hard spot and i have cleaned the connections and changed 70amp fuse but it doesent change... Sometimes it makes squeaking plastic noise too.
Thanks ✌️
Thank you. The injectors are plug'n'play, only replace them and they will work, no need for coding. This is the nice thing about petrol engines, or at least this one. Same with throttle body, just clean it.
Not too sure about the steering assist, what model is your car? You could renew the steering fluid: ua-cam.com/video/cumVwvQ7LS8/v-deo.html
And do full lock to full lock ~10times (shown in the video). See if this helps, I think there is a column steering joint that may need greasing up as notches can be felt through the steering.
How did you removed the screves from the back especially the middle one? Is there enough space? Or is it any better to try from the bottom? Thanks in advance
Grazie multo bello
Prego!
Hi, what software or website or book maybe, you use for the images for the torq specs? Great video!
Hi Jozef, I use the Haynes manual for the torque specs and for some of the images www.catcar.info/peugeot/?lang=en
I also have a software that is similar to the Haynes manual, ServiceBox and it includes tirque settings and some images.
@@moremolecules Thanks mate!
Ok you have a better view by removing all the stuff at the bottom of the windscreen, but it should be possible to remove the block by sliding it on the right after removing air box and battery like you did and keep all the things above ?
Yes it should be possible, but not in my case. I suspect it depends on the model of the car and a few cm here and there tightness does not allow without the top removed. I did try it actually (off camera) as it would have been a lot easier, but it just could not be done in my setup.
Thanks a lot for the video, I have almost the same thing on my car (KFU ET3J4) but I have a question, should I reprogram the injectors at a garage? Or can I drive like this?
No, they are plug and play, no need to reprogram these injectors.
Hi I'm in South Africa have a Peugeot 307 convertible please show videos of self-servicing and the wiring system of the car thanks
Browse my channel and you will find a full guide for servicing the 307. Wiring, no, I have none of that.
awesome ! but could you teach how to change rubber timing belt?
I could, but I already changed it and did not film it. Maybe should have. THere are other videos about the timing belt.
Could you explain why they need changing and couldn’t you répair/clean them
If one or more of these is not working quite correctly, there will be misfire and quite a bit of engine shaking, poor fuel consumption etc. There was a bit of shaking in this engine and a slight misfire, that is why I replaced them. One can clean them and test the spray pattern and replace only those that are faulty, but they are relatively cheap, i.e. ~£25, the testing + postage will be more expensive than replacing them.
Great video I have a Citreon berlingo with same engine my problem is white smoke from exhaust which smells of fuel and mpg is 20 any ideas?
20mpg is way too low. If I were you I would get some of these OBDII scanner thingies and check for any errors. This would certainly help with the initial diagnosis although it is not the best. Lexia/Diagbox is the best. For the white smoke check if you by any chance you do not have oil in the coolant expansion reservoir.
Thanks for super fast reply I have a vci Delphi which points to catalytic converter would a bad cat cause my issues white smoke and low mpg ?
@@jasont8342 Yeah, it could well be. Clogged/blocked catalytic converter will restrict the air flow and the engine will over-fuel most likely. The smell could also be due to a blocked catalytic converter.
Awesome Video and explanations. Which was the reason you changed the injectors?
I have a similar car with the same engine type and while running with Petrol just in IDLE there are moments when the engine fluctuates between 700 to 900 rpm like some injector doesn't work smothly.
When I switch to GAS there are no fluctuations anymore running in IDLE. If I switch back on Petrol , fluctuates come back.
This happens mostly random, not always.
There are timeframes when the message Pop-up Antipollution Faulty. If I'm using just Petrol for around 30km , the error disapears by itself.
I changed already the 1st Lambda Sonde.
Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
I had a small vibration on idle, but that is most likely due to the engine mounts. I bought the car and it had stood for quite some time unused, so I did pretty much everything I could to replace, so I can use it for much longer. That was the primary reason.
The anti pollution might be related to the lambda sensors, the top and the bottom. If you have diagbox (pp2000 for Peugeot and Lexia for Citroen) you can measure the lambda sensors and see if there is something going on. It could be from the injectors, but it could also be a blocked catalytic converter.
@more molecules , thanks a lot for your reply.
I have DiagBox updated to 7.83 and PP2000 but in Peugeot Planet I have access to less features compared what I have seen on your video, when you programmed another key.
Probably because the car is built Oct 2006.
The car is 244k km , probably the catalytic converter needs to be cleaned.
I changed already the upper Lambda sensor and afterwards the consume has lowered very well from 8.3 to 6.9 / 100km.
I will have a check and compare the values between bottom Lambda sensor and upper Lambda sensor.
The values should be similar if I know correctly.
@@adisebesan4756 Do not quite remember, but there is a sequence of the lambda sensors, one if off and the other on or something like that. Google lambda sensor checks and it should show. I think they are opposite, but might be wrong, not opposite, but going through an interval of say 0.5s on/off both of them.
شرحك جميل.. اعتقد لو كان شخص مثلك يتكلم عربي لفهمنا اكثر شرحك المفيد.. بوركتم
Yes, sorry, I have very little knowledge of arabic
Can anyone please tell me where the purge valve is located
It is in the video at ua-cam.com/video/NMHHmCH2BzU/v-deo.html
Nice video mate, but i have a question, my 307/2008 consumes lots of petrol, like it goes for around 6km/1ltr, unleaded 90, it was much better than this it used to drive around 8-9 km/1ltr i replaced oxygen sensors, air filter, engine, transmitter, air intake, and lots of other parts, it shows no errors on the system,
Do u have any idea on that regard ?
Thanks in advance
Hi rida, do you mean 6L/100km? That sounds about right. It is a heavy car and the engine does not have a turbo, etc. It is petrol at the end of the day, much leff efficient than a diesel. Even 8-9L/100km seems alright depending on trafic, speed, load, etc.
@@moremolecules no not 6L/100km 😅
Its actually 16.6L/100km, which is too much man 🥲
@@ridakhlyfat9688 Hmm, 16L is way too much. It depends, it could be injectors, but it is difficult to say for certain. It depends on driving style, etc. Is it automatic by any chance?
@@moremolecules yea 1.6 automatic 4 speeds
@@ridakhlyfat9688 Yes, the autos consume more petrol than the manual ones, but still 16L is too much. Mine is auto as well, but depending on the driving is ~8L city driving only, I have not yet driven it combined. Have a look at the computer estimated consumption on a stretch of road that is ~50mph or 80km/h and it is fiarly flat. It should be ~5-6L/100km consumption shwon on the instant L/100km on the central display, say with the cruise control set on the speed. That would show you how off you are. I generally fill to the top, reset the trip computer and then re-fill to the top when nearly empty and I calculate my consumpion from that. It is the most accurate way.
Здравствуйте. Не подскажите какие должны быть штатные параметры работы ДЗ на ХХ?(у меня при выключенном зажигании ДЗ 8%. А на ХХ 20%).
Apologies, but my Russian is rather rusty and google translate did not help.
I have some issues that when enginecold, the power is not there for the first few seconds.. (tought to push over 2000 rpm for the first 2 -3 seconds of driving)
Plus overall fuel consumption is + 25 % above normal.
However car scanning does not show error codes, so I can only guess that it is fuel injectors.
Should I risk it? (I would have to pay labor cost plus injector cost which is like 30% value of the car, so wondering how likely it is this issue)
Hi tom, did you really mean 2-3seconds? You should never exceed too much rpm or push the engine when the car is cold or not in operating temperature. 2-3 secs, even 2-3 min is absolutely fine. Oil has not gone everywhere, there are too much tolerance in the cylinders, etc. It is just not really good for the engine to push it straight from the get go. For the first few minutes let warm up with lower than normal rpm and once it is warmed then you can push it if you want to. At the beginning the consumption will always be higher than once the car is in operating temperature, all the components have tolerances that are calculated for the engine to be in operating temperature, i.e. warm, not cold. With the modern manufacturing they reduce these tolerances, but still metals expand, etc.
@@moremolecules No, it is not supposed to stall at 2000 RPM like that. Prior to this trouble, it was running fine and smooth.
Maybe not 2-3 seconds, maybe 4-5 seconds. Basically the first 200-300 meters I am stalling like crazy (no, it is absolutely not supposed to be like that). All my cars including this were running smoothly even cold (of course I never push more than 3000 Rpm cold, but the point is that they do not stall at all).
So to illustrate if there was some situation where I HAD to accelerate fast when cold, in the same few second timeframe where I would easily (before this trouble happened) reach 5000RPM,, now I would barely reach 2500 RPM (even if I floored the pedal).
That is how huge the difference is, and how not normal this is.
The 25% higher consumption is not immediate consumption, but overall (measured over many fuel tanks and thousands of kilometers I drove since this problem started).
So this just confirms that somehere is a HUGE problem.
Too bad diagnostics does not show any errors, so I must only randomly change parts till I find what is the cause of this.
@@tomjens2046 Apologies, but you should have said it stalls, not that there is no power or probably I understood it not correctly. Does it stall in general or is it just when it is cold? I would suggest to begin with cleaning the throttle position valve, held by 3 bolts and it is connected to the air filter box or immediately after the air filter box. See if that makes any difference, it may be slightly sticking when cold.
@@moremolecules it stalls strongly during the first 5 seconds of cold drive. After that, everything seems +- ok, but I think the power is not there fully (compared to before).
And the overall 25% increase in fuel consumption indicates that this problem is happening all the time.
@@tomjens2046 Have you had a annual service done on it, i.e. spark plugs, oil, filter, etc.? The spark plugs is the cheapest thing to do and see if it improves. These engines have been known for a failure in the ignition coil packs, but it is impossible to test and expensive to replace.
hello, please, why did you change the injectors? I have a problem with this engine that when it's 0 degrees outside, I start the engine in the morning, it runs for 10 seconds, and then it runs on 3 cylinders, when I turn it off, I start it again, it runs normally...I changed the spark plugs, the coil and no change
I changed them because I had just bought the vehicle and there was a strange vibration in the engine under idle. Unfortunately the injectors change did not improve anything in my particular scenario.
@@moremolecules thank you for the information, I will continue to investigate my mistake
Hi .. could please help me solve the sluggish acceleration problem for peugeout 307cc 1.6 nfu petrol engine ? Its kilometrage is 125000 km
Appreciate your technical advice
If I were you I would start with simple things. Air/oil filters, oil change, spark plugs, clean the throttle body and then see if there is any improvement. You could check for cylinder compression. Did it appear after a drive belt change?
@@moremolecules i change the timing belt at 65000 km with original.one from the dealership
@@moremolecules all sparkplugs, oil filter, coils were changed by the dealership
@@moremolecules throttle body cleaned, catalytic converter cleaned, oil changed even no check enginr lighg coming on the dashboard
@@imadhondata5228 Have you plugged in with DiagBox to see if there are any error codes?
why did you have to replace em?
Bought the car second hand that had stood for prolonged periods of time unused, also there was a bit of vibration on low revs. For the price it was worth replacing to know that they would not cause me a problem.
Как очистит пежо 206-2004 года вензин
Not too sure about the question, but if you want to clean the injectors of the 1.6 petrol version you can either use some sort of injector cleaner that you put in the tank or replace them altogether. The 4 injectors are rather cheap, but takes time to replace
Very bad design and placement of the engine, considering the consumption of the injector part and the car manifold service
Changing spark plugs in this one was a decent task for me.
This one looks at least 20 times more difficult :(
Hi tom, it is not too bad. A lot of things need to be taken off, but it is not too bad.
Please tell me , what the size have the engine air filter ?
Not too sure what sizes you want, but you can find all the components in this video, in the description of the video as well: ua-cam.com/video/27vEMmlGZhE/v-deo.html
@@moremolecules thanks.
425x95x46