Hey, the Loss of Crankshaft Synchronisation is pretty common for the Facelift 3,0TDI, i changed the Sensor the Chain and some other things and still had the Problem. An Software Update fixed it for me....
@SavingSalvage I wouldn't buy carly even if it had a year free subscription I'm afraid. These guys will eventually cause damage to your reputation. Choose other sponsors
As you suggested i'd go for a crank regrind and outsized bearings £1000 tops ... done that several times . The engine will feel like new. Check oil feed and pump job done.
Could get the crank surface treated after a regrind, so no issue there. But I don't think Audi has undersize bearings for it, so you're outta luck there. Assuming the pistons and bores are ok still ...
Dean, I subscribed to your channel because I liked watching content of you stripping down, diagnosing and rebuilding the engines on your projects - like the early RS cars you did. UA-cam is now full of tabletop mechanics who replace parts they buy from ebay ready to use, whereas you have the skills to take these things apart nut by nut. Definately rebuild - its what you can do that most can't - and it provides content I'd like to watch.
I had a few Audis. If you push the start button with out pushing the clutch (one key click) and then pop the bonet open, the oil level should come up on the dashboard display.
Just get rid of Carly as a sponsor. Scam artists to say the least with their marketing tactics, when they sell their product and hide the fact you are paying for a subscription. Then conveniently they don't accept returns even minutes after purchase. This company shouldn't be endorsed
Suppose if you could find a rear ended donor car with the the same engine you'll have an expensive gearbox to sell and alot of other expensive parts to sell on + plenty of content for the channel but alot of work and hassle, glad it will be you doing it...great vid.
Breaker comments , way to go. £8,500 engine. Omg. Better go Japan V8 and suffer fuel cost. Love a TDi running right. Don’t want the oncosts and possible failure. Crazy
Hi Dean, these 3.0tdis of this generation are prone to this kind of failure. They cannot sustain heavy or full load for prolonged amount of time or this will happen. There is an underlying oil pressure problem you need to address. In order to reduce internal friction and thus CO2, Audi engineers decided to run these on lower oil pressure than what was actually needed. Hope this helps. Looking forward to the next video. Cheers mate.
Hi Dean. Strip & clean everything of swarfe. Crank regrind & new bearings from grinder.,,cheaper than Audi by far. Probably need a new oil pump too. Check each conrod for out of round too. Got to be the way to go.
Back in the day I was always bemused by people who bought the non-runners at BCA, they were almost always completely bugg*red, yet fetched almost what regular cars did.
Agreed, auctions use up all the margin in their profits and charges…. You will be lucky to break even on just buying a running car normally and you end up with a categorised car a lot of the time. Plus the auctions damage the underside with forklifts. Unless you have other revenue streams coming in like UA-cam stay away.
I too am really interested in what happens next. I’ve just scrapped my A6 for an engine fault that could only (possibly) be repaired with a rebuild but I struggled to get anyone to even attempt it, same engine.
I was stressed out, just looking at you dig deeper and deeper into the engine. It’ll be some achievement getting it up and running. Can’t wait for the next instalment 💪🏻
Secondhand engine is the way to go as your rebuild quotation does not include possible damaged pump and timing chain replacements. Dome of the valves and or valve guides could also be damaged
What I love about your content Dean is that you’re not afraid to show your cock ups. As a mechanic myself it’s what makes you relatable never change. Keep up the great work mate👍
That one injector that was really stuck got some nice carbon build up around it, that's got issues too. Better make sure the injector holes in the heads are not wallered out of you plan on re-using those.
Wait for a Cat B, or even a Cat S to come up if it's cheap enough, and swap the engine from that. With that much shrapnel in the sump some of it could have found it's way up top and is sat there waiting to take out the top end after you've re-built it.
Not sure about how much your labour would be, but I'm leaning towards rebuild. Putting a new engine where I'm from, means police clearance and relicensing.
Oil pump on those engines works on ecu's demand, if you repair it, you should get a tune to delete the oil pump management and leave always working on full pressure. That's emission related as you've been told.
TPI for the brake servo fault. New updated brake servo pressure sensor but if there's faults stored in ABS for being faulty, it'll need a ABS Unit as its been driving too long with the pressure sensor fault and abs module gets confused and can't be reset so has to be replaced
Rebuild the engine, re grind the crank etc 👍 Your a brave man Dean paying 6K. Knowing what Q7's can be like I wouldn't have wanted it any any price, but you have the expertise and it makes great content on the channel.
Why do UA-camrs never tell you that Carly has a subscription and you need to pay more for smart mechanic. Some important information for people to know
And why would that benefit them? if they are sponsored they will not be negative about the product, i always look at reviews before i buy a product, there are diagnostics with lifetime updates, but are not cheap, but cheaper than paying a subscription every year.
They don't tell you about the subscription because if they did no one would buy the product, but I definitely agree with you it is a con. I've just purchased a TopDon ArtiDiag 900 Lite for £300 and it is a cracking piece of kit for the money.
@sprograt However.......JDM driveway. Will I ever use My 800BT??? Folk say "it's better to have it and not use it... Than need it and not have it" 🤷♂️👍
This 3.0 tdi have common problem with oil preasure, if it was driven slowly then it's quite normal for that engine to be seized at that mileage. After fixing the engine you may program ECU to a higher oil preasure and after that engine should work for much longer without problems.
Something like that here in South Africa would be a crank grind, resize the conrods and oversize big end and main bearings. Maybe do a rebore ( Worst case scenario ) if my engineer feels it needs it.
These engines are notorious for oilconsumption due to soft pistonrings. Buying an other engine gives you the same issues...better rebuild, that way you know its good when you are done.
Could be longlife 15-20k miles oil changes aftermaths? I don't personally get it, oil change with oil filter can be done on driveway for less than 100 quid and peace of mind for another 6-10k miles. Good luck with the car and hope will get fixed. Cheers.
Looks like another parts car! Selling the bits off it will surely help try to break even. This engine's in a lot of Vag stuff, so you should be able to find one. Best of luck Dean.👍👍
Love how you go into all the mechanical detail with these. I’m getting less fazed at the idea of having to take an engine out or changing a clutch. Recently did both driveshafts on my Abarth 500 after watching your rebuilds and realising that things like that/draining gearbox oil just aren’t as big a deal as I feared
When I saw fault about the starter I knew the engine is seized. All of 3.0 TDI 272ps have a problem of low engine oil pressure (thanks to EU). That's the reason for these engine to seize. Oil pressure can be increased by remapping the ECU. Even if you repair it or change the engine, same thing will happen to it after 40-60k miles. Now the only thing to do is to break it for parts not worth repairing, unless you want to keep it.
Mine has been great just done 100k miles I just change the oil and filter every 6k. Never heard the oil pressure problem just timing chain tension faults. Might look in to this
@@izaya8986 not 100% sure how it's driven on these engines but pressure is set on ECU map. On prefacelift couldn't be done and there was no such need for it.
Whack a used runner in it and send it on its way. Keep it simple and costs to a minimum BUT remember to flush or replace any original engine oil coolers. Enjoying from Australia 🇦🇺
I agree, feels like the owner loved the car but the garage had been lazy with the little things like replacing the gearbox oil in a timely manner ...which killed the original gearbox. THEN the garage missed a page (or two) of checklist after putting in the new gearbox.
Hi Dean, before going head long into a Rebuild.. give Barum engines a call, they will be able to inform you if there is oversize bearings availiable for that crank and also what costing there would be on a re grind.. you may have to get the main bearings line bored.. not to mention the camshaft bearings for heavy scoring if the metal fragments have been carried over in the oil .... the Turbo may even require a new center cartridge if its had metal contamination .. I'd stick with a replacement engine that has good warranty standing by it ... Good luck .. :) :)
26:09 definitely a rebuild would be the cheaper option for the time, get the crank ground and undersize, at least then once that's sweet, if the other faults are too expensive, you have a brand new gearbox and a good engine on your hands
Secondhand engineI. I guess most codes will relate to engine fault and uncoded new battery. Raffling it once up and running will more than put you back in the black! Good luck!!
Tip for the future: you can see oil messurment with diagnosis! In live data theres a value with oil level warnining threshold, and on with oil level. Its messured in Milimeters.
@@kimsgarage that part confuses me. Because it needs to run for 2 to 5 min, and be still on flat surface for accurate reading. And you're saying you can get accurate reading just randomly sitting without circulating oil ????????? The math is not mathing.
Great honest video, good to see that not all the gambles pay off. None the less a good honest view of a lemon, great to see your diagnostic procedures as well.
Dean, pull it to bits and see what it really needs. Maybe the crank can be remachined ,new oversize bearings that would take a chunk of cost off. Best of luck
Hi man, I would check the cylinder bor for damage before making any desition.. if u got bor scoring u want to get another engine, sleeving the cylinders would cost you more all together with parts than a used good engine, good luck with the repair! U do a good job in most of ur videos 👍✌️
Take out crank and get it reground if possible, usually what you try first, con-rods may be ok, then under sized bearings, oil pump and cooler etc, save lots of cash, !!! Good luck.
No dip stick............ yup. i can relate to that. Mrs came home one night saying her engine dosent sound right and asked me to look. I went out and started it. Display states engine oil level is OK. Said engine is done! I'm now waiting for Uncle Rodney to create a new ventilition port in the block.
Even a second hand engine could end up hanging the same problem in a few thousands miles. A New one is too expensive.. so this leaves you just one reasonable choice 😂😂
Another great video Dean. Love seeing how you diagnose any issues and what it takes to fix. Spannering far out of my league but inspirational non the less. Keep up the good work! 🤓
I'm in Australia and am fixing a diesel ix35 with the exact same problem which is the crank has locked up due to overheating. Firstly I scoured the normal places on the net and everything was a fortune,so I then contacted machine shops in China through Ali express which was cheaper. Next i got onto a machine shop in Perth and he will grind my shaft for $350 ,he thinks as it locked up and wasn't knocking for ages that the conrods will be fine.
Great video, good to see the pitfalls and choices laid out if it doesn't pan out. For me, it would be, park it up and wait for another car with the same engine but smashed in the rear or sides etc or simply break it and get some money back, that gearbox should go for good money, plus you've got all panels interior etc etc etc. It's not like you're short of a project or two! Keep up the good work, I enjoy this channel a lot.
I would add to the list new torque converter and rocker arms. If you can’t get the engine to spin you’ll end up cutting the torque converter off and the rocker arms( needle bearings in rocker arms) you probably know are most common failure on these Audi engines.
I have the same car but 2017. In your situation it would be so easy to build the car with a bigger turbo and stage tune it to 400 BHP, fit an RS kit and you would be looking closer to 16,000 for it. As the bi turbo is quite rare and you would end up with a more powerful machine, take it out of the market for being the standard car it is, and push it to its full potential
I’m rebuilding a BMW motorbike engine at the moment but this is next level 😮 I’d never remember the order of everything - it’s just so complex. Hope you decide to rebuild it - just to watch and learn
Buy a sub 1k phaeton, strip the engine out and then sell on the rest. Job done, nice phaeton content and all round happiness. I should get my own channel.
Please, if you do that, do it with an A6 or something, and if you need parts for a Phaeton, at least strip a gas engine one. At least in Germany, the TDI ones are usually more valuable and definitely more desirable than the gas ones, as every gas engine offered in them is shit in some way. W12 gets horrible gas mileage and is expensive to fix, V8 gets piston slap all the time, V6 and VR6 are slow and get bad gas mileage. The diesels are also not perfect, V10 is unreliable and V6 gets horrible fuel mileage, but are still much better daily drivers than the gas ones. A worn out (maybe crashed) A6 is dirt cheap and way less desirable, and noone will be pissed if you strip it.
@@unmountablebootvolume I'm not too offended by the mpg and acceptable level of boot from my V6 phaeton. I do agree on the petrols though, you're bang on there.
@@runningvalver Yeah, the newer V6 isn't that bad, even the old one was "good" compared to the V8 or W12, but could draw more than the V10 on the highway due to an outdated turbo design and the badly matched gearbox revving it too high while cruising, making it quite disappointing for people who were expecting it to be much more economical than the V10. So it wans't horrible compared to the others, but it was horrible compared to people's expectation of 5L/100km, when in reality, it was often closer to 8+L. To be more specific, I meant the very first V6 TDI from the GP0/1 (not the later one) is much worse in terms of fuel mileage than the newer (dieselgate and after) euro5+ V6s, mainly due to them having a better turbo and gearbox.
@@unmountablebootvolume I'd have considered the later to be on topic as that's essentially what we're dealing with on the Audi. In the UK they're cheap ATM as the tax is £80 per month and that kills the cars. I had an e32 750 so I am still respectful of the later spec mpg and not bad nice shifting box.
Re grind the crank and put her back together. Not worth spending a mint! It is amazing how shit VAG are for failure, not exactly cheap motors either. Do Skodas suffer v6 Tdi failures in the Superb???
Sorry to say Dean, but I think you should part this one out. Sure, it's fixable with a new used engine, but is it economical to do that? Unless you can get a parts car with a good engine, then sell off whatever parts you don't need.
These engines are known for timing chain/tensioners failing. When you said the engine was seized I actually thought that was the issue. But yeah, they are also known for problems on the crankshaft bearings so no surprises. Audi engineers actually did reduce the oil pressure on these engines on purpose to "increase fuel economy and reduce pollution, they said". That can be fixed with an oil pressure fix tune that raises oil pressure to what it actually should be and I STRONGLY advice you to do it once the engine is repaired or even if you get a new/used engine. That can really avoid important damage in the future. Do it also on your Q7.
Probably the best option is to break the car for spares, I know it doesn't fix it but with the new gearbox and bits you know are good you should quickly clear the cost and some.
This is a common failure, and its why second hand engines are so expensive (when you can actually find them..) The issue is though that the engines fail so often and at such low mileages, you are likely to be replacing it with one thats just about to go bang, The trouble normally starts with the chains and oil pump btw. You are a clever bloke so really your best option is to repair rather than replace. These lumps are in a whole load of VAG models. They are gorgeous when they are working. Low miles and FULL dealer history is the only way to go! In honesty if your own one with anything less than impeccable history, I would bail out while its still working. VAG techs tell me they will do the miles when they are serviced properly with the right oil. Fix it and show us how its done! Lovely things when they work!
Only 4 min in, just want to say - I got a OEM dipstick for my 4.0TT, got real tired of not being able to check the actual level, whenever I wanted. As you say, the tube is already there…
Repair/rebuild it mate, for the simple fact that you can't know the condition of the used engine. When here everything inside the wngine will be new/rebuilt. Cheers for the great video.
The budget is stuffed whichever way you go. Easiest option is to go for that used engine. However for continu3d excellent content, fixing the engine is the way to go.
Go get machine shop costs if you do the assembly and pull down yours self it will be cheaper, I would just get the crank ground 10 under and unless the conrods are totally smoked get them refurbished or look for a recon set or search high and low for a short motor
Rebuild the lump, second hand ones can be problematic, and if so you have got to take the bugger out again if its crap to return it, genuine VAG parts you won't go wrong.
Definitely rebuild the engine. I'll bet the rods can be resized and the crank can be ground down. Of course you didn't get the button end disassembled completely yet to get a good look.🤔✌️😎
Hi dean have you thought about biding on a cat b like you done in the past and remove the engine and gearbox and then sell the gear box and any other parts you mite need and also you could turn this around possibly a hive a better margin on the car sale thanks Tim
Shame about the seizure Dean, but nice car and worth saving. Content for channel will be good seeing as its a diesel this time and you've not done a full proper tear down and rebuild of bearings etc for a little while. Added bonus is it has a new gearbox and other parts so I say rebuild with the caveat that you need to be able to check the rest of it first to see if anything else is toast.
Get your Carly here: bit.ly/SavingSalvage_Carly
Coupon: 'Savingsalvage24'
Hey, the Loss of Crankshaft Synchronisation is pretty common for the Facelift 3,0TDI, i changed the Sensor the Chain and some other things and still had the Problem. An Software Update fixed it for me....
@SavingSalvage I wouldn't buy carly even if it had a year free subscription I'm afraid. These guys will eventually cause damage to your reputation. Choose other sponsors
Why ??@@ΒασίλειοςΠαπασταύρου
@vincenzoricci8359 look above. I have explained why
Do you still have the Cupra Born. How about a review of it? UA-cam Short anything would be great
As you suggested i'd go for a crank regrind and outsized bearings £1000 tops ... done that several times . The engine will feel like new. Check oil feed and pump job done.
Absolutely not a these engines are not designed to be rebuilt that crank won’t last
Could get the crank surface treated after a regrind, so no issue there. But I don't think Audi has undersize bearings for it, so you're outta luck there. Assuming the pistons and bores are ok still ...
Its the only way to keep in budget
Repair manual states that no repairs are to be carried out on the crank
@@tomn.1568 king bearings may have them
Dean, I subscribed to your channel because I liked watching content of you stripping down, diagnosing and rebuilding the engines on your projects - like the early RS cars you did. UA-cam is now full of tabletop mechanics who replace parts they buy from ebay ready to use, whereas you have the skills to take these things apart nut by nut. Definately rebuild - its what you can do that most can't - and it provides content I'd like to watch.
I had a few Audis. If you push the start button with out pushing the clutch (one key click) and then pop the bonet open, the oil level should come up on the dashboard display.
It does indeed! Thanks very much for the tip. Cheers!
Top tip!
or just go in the mmi display??
Not if your MMI system is buggered, like it was in this video
@@joeblank8002 ngl, didn't even remember that part of the video. My bad!!
Just get rid of Carly as a sponsor. Scam artists to say the least with their marketing tactics, when they sell their product and hide the fact you are paying for a subscription. Then conveniently they don't accept returns even minutes after purchase. This company shouldn't be endorsed
Agreed
Repair the engine
Yep, far better code readers I wouldn’t associate myself with them
He thinks they're crap anyway cos he always uses a different one unles its sponsored by carly
@Cf-82 yes indeed. But hopefully he will drop carly from sponsorship completely.
The used engine seems the best option. It will save you a lot of time. No matter which way you go, it will be a great video. 👍
Dean, the best option is to rebuild the engine. I look forward to the follow-up videos.
Suppose if you could find a rear ended donor car with the the same engine you'll have an expensive gearbox to sell and alot of other expensive parts to sell on + plenty of content for the channel but alot of work and hassle, glad it will be you doing it...great vid.
That's what I was thinking aswell
Definitely needs to find a breaker
Breaker comments , way to go. £8,500 engine. Omg. Better go Japan V8 and suffer fuel cost. Love a TDi running right. Don’t want the oncosts and possible failure. Crazy
this might be his best bet
"No stupid comments", whatever could you mean?! 😂
Dont be a wanker mate 😂
He never gave her the aul hauk tua spit on that thing 🤣🤣🤣🤣
It’s all in the wrist action
He was just knocking 1 out
He nearly pulled the head off it 😂
Hi Dean, these 3.0tdis of this generation are prone to this kind of failure. They cannot sustain heavy or full load for prolonged amount of time or this will happen. There is an underlying oil pressure problem you need to address. In order to reduce internal friction and thus CO2, Audi engineers decided to run these on lower oil pressure than what was actually needed. Hope this helps. Looking forward to the next video. Cheers mate.
That sounds awful. Is this for the BI TDI or all 3.0 TDis
Thanks mate! Appreciate the info 🙏🏼
I’ve read somewhere you can increase the pressure somehow through vagcom.
Hi you need to have oil pressure increased in ecu mapping had it done on my g7 with same engine @@SavingSalvage
Sounds like Audi was building in failure, what other reason would there be to build an engine with insufficient oil pressure under all conditions?
Hi Dean. Strip & clean everything of swarfe. Crank regrind & new bearings from grinder.,,cheaper than Audi by far. Probably need a new oil pump too. Check each conrod for out of round too. Got to be the way to go.
Back in the day I was always bemused by people who bought the non-runners at BCA, they were almost always completely bugg*red, yet fetched almost what regular cars did.
Agreed, auctions use up all the margin in their profits and charges…. You will be lucky to break even on just buying a running car normally and you end up with a categorised car a lot of the time. Plus the auctions damage the underside with forklifts.
Unless you have other revenue streams coming in like UA-cam stay away.
I too am really interested in what happens next. I’ve just scrapped my A6 for an engine fault that could only (possibly) be repaired with a rebuild but I struggled to get anyone to even attempt it, same engine.
I was stressed out, just looking at you dig deeper and deeper into the engine. It’ll be some achievement getting it up and running. Can’t wait for the next instalment 💪🏻
Dump in a second hand 1. Cheapest option and least amount of labour time. Keep the budget down where ya can and ya might do ok
Secondhand engine is the way to go as your rebuild quotation does not include possible damaged pump and timing chain replacements. Dome of the valves and or valve guides could also be damaged
Thing with a second hand engine is, it's an inherent problem and will most probs go again.
What I love about your content Dean is that you’re not afraid to show your cock ups. As a mechanic myself it’s what makes you relatable never change. Keep up the great work mate👍
That one injector that was really stuck got some nice carbon build up around it, that's got issues too. Better make sure the injector holes in the heads are not wallered out of you plan on re-using those.
Wait for a Cat B, or even a Cat S to come up if it's cheap enough, and swap the engine from that. With that much shrapnel in the sump some of it could have found it's way up top and is sat there waiting to take out the top end after you've re-built it.
Not sure about how much your labour would be, but I'm leaning towards rebuild.
Putting a new engine where I'm from, means police clearance and relicensing.
Oil pump on those engines works on ecu's demand, if you repair it, you should get a tune to delete the oil pump management and leave always working on full pressure. That's emission related as you've been told.
TPI for the brake servo fault. New updated brake servo pressure sensor but if there's faults stored in ABS for being faulty, it'll need a ABS Unit as its been driving too long with the pressure sensor fault and abs module gets confused and can't be reset so has to be replaced
ECU TESTING WILL REPAIR FOR A FRACTION OF THE PRICE IF NEEDED, PLUS NEW PRESSURE SENSOR. PUMP IS £3500 FROM AUDI. KNOWN ISSUE LIKE YOU SAY 🙂
Rebuild the engine, re grind the crank etc 👍 Your a brave man Dean paying 6K. Knowing what Q7's can be like I wouldn't have wanted it any any price, but you have the expertise and it makes great content on the channel.
Why do UA-camrs never tell you that Carly has a subscription and you need to pay more for smart mechanic. Some important information for people to know
Agree, it’s a bloody con!
And why would that benefit them? if they are sponsored they will not be negative about the product, i always look at reviews before i buy a product, there are diagnostics with lifetime updates, but are not cheap, but cheaper than paying a subscription every year.
TopDon
Artidiag800BT
Best that money can buy (imo)
Even the "Jumpsurge2000" is more than a Starter pack!!
They don't tell you about the subscription because if they did no one would buy the product, but I definitely agree with you it is a con. I've just purchased a TopDon ArtiDiag 900 Lite for £300 and it is a cracking piece of kit for the money.
@sprograt
However.......JDM driveway. Will I ever use My 800BT???
Folk say "it's better to have it and not use it... Than need it and not have it" 🤷♂️👍
Those 3.0TDI engines run at 0.5bar oil pressure from factory... Increasing it to 2bar in ECU map can save your engine and a lot of money
This 3.0 tdi have common problem with oil preasure, if it was driven slowly then it's quite normal for that engine to be seized at that mileage. After fixing the engine you may program ECU to a higher oil preasure and after that engine should work for much longer without problems.
You can get oil pressure increased in mapping
Something like that here in South Africa would be a crank grind, resize the conrods and oversize big end and main bearings. Maybe do a rebore ( Worst case scenario ) if my engineer feels it needs it.
These engines are notorious for oilconsumption due to soft pistonrings. Buying an other engine gives you the same issues...better rebuild, that way you know its good when you are done.
Could be longlife 15-20k miles oil changes aftermaths? I don't personally get it, oil change with oil filter can be done on driveway for less than 100 quid and peace of mind for another 6-10k miles. Good luck with the car and hope will get fixed. Cheers.
Looks like another parts car! Selling the bits off it will surely help try to break even. This engine's in a lot of Vag stuff, so you should be able to find one. Best of luck Dean.👍👍
Definitely agree, the new gear box must be worth a lot.
Pulling that injector extractor like a pro 😂
Get a cat B one from auction? Use engine from that maybe??
Not everyone can buy cat B, unless you are a registered breaker
Love how you go into all the mechanical detail with these. I’m getting less fazed at the idea of having to take an engine out or changing a clutch. Recently did both driveshafts on my Abarth 500 after watching your rebuilds and realising that things like that/draining gearbox oil just aren’t as big a deal as I feared
When I saw fault about the starter I knew the engine is seized. All of 3.0 TDI 272ps have a problem of low engine oil pressure (thanks to EU). That's the reason for these engine to seize. Oil pressure can be increased by remapping the ECU. Even if you repair it or change the engine, same thing will happen to it after 40-60k miles. Now the only thing to do is to break it for parts not worth repairing, unless you want to keep it.
Mine has been great just done 100k miles I just change the oil and filter every 6k. Never heard the oil pressure problem just timing chain tension faults. Might look in to this
Oil pump is chain driven right? How you want to boost oil pressure with remap
@@izaya8986 not 100% sure how it's driven on these engines but pressure is set on ECU map. On prefacelift couldn't be done and there was no such need for it.
i am not a mechanic, however your videos have me gripped as you are hands on and seem to know what your are doing. Tremendous content !
Your best option would be to get a donor a7 for £5k, use it for what you need and sell the rest as parts.
Don’t even need an a7, can get a4, a5, a6, a8, vw phaeton, Passat? Another that I forget. I’d get a donor either cat B or cat S rear end
@@AI-Records24he’d make at least 1.2k back for the gearbox alone. It’s a no brainer.
Its lot of work
Whack a used runner in it and send it on its way. Keep it simple and costs to a minimum BUT remember to flush or replace any original engine oil coolers. Enjoying from Australia 🇦🇺
That has had a new gearbox someone forgot something associated with that, a thorough check of all parts especially the operation of the oil pump.
I agree, feels like the owner loved the car but the garage had been lazy with the little things like replacing the gearbox oil in a timely manner ...which killed the original gearbox. THEN the garage missed a page (or two) of checklist after putting in the new gearbox.
Hi Dean, before going head long into a Rebuild.. give Barum engines a call, they will be able to inform you if there is oversize bearings availiable for that crank and also what costing there would be on a re grind.. you may have to get the main bearings line bored.. not to mention the camshaft bearings for heavy scoring if the metal fragments have been carried over in the oil .... the Turbo may even require a new center cartridge if its had metal contamination .. I'd stick with a replacement engine that has good warranty standing by it ... Good luck .. :) :)
26:09 definitely a rebuild would be the cheaper option for the time, get the crank ground and undersize, at least then once that's sweet, if the other faults are too expensive, you have a brand new gearbox and a good engine on your hands
Secondhand engineI. I guess most codes will relate to engine fault and uncoded new battery. Raffling it once up and running will more than put you back in the black! Good luck!!
Tip for the future: you can see oil messurment with diagnosis! In live data theres a value with oil level warnining threshold, and on with oil level. Its messured in Milimeters.
live data? meaning while the engine is running?
Just give us a dipstick. What's wrong with these companies?
@@deividasnavickas you only need to have ignition on to read live data. :)
@@andrewpemberton7295 im all with you on this one!😅
@@kimsgarage that part confuses me. Because it needs to run for 2 to 5 min, and be still on flat surface for accurate reading. And you're saying you can get accurate reading just randomly sitting without circulating oil ????????? The math is not mathing.
Great honest video, good to see that not all the gambles pay off. None the less a good honest view of a lemon, great to see your diagnostic procedures as well.
You PULLED OFF another great video. No pun intended 🤣🤣🤣
Dean, pull it to bits and see what it really needs. Maybe the crank can be remachined ,new oversize bearings that would take a chunk of cost off. Best of luck
Buy another Audi (A6/A7), and there's a suitable A6 for sale on copart currently sat at £1050. Auction ends in just over 3 days.
And swap the engines and put the crashed car back in the auction as a private entry. Some newbie will buy it and put them off buying from conpart
@@MrNessavscam someone?
Hi man, I would check the cylinder bor for damage before making any desition.. if u got bor scoring u want to get another engine, sleeving the cylinders would cost you more all together with parts than a used good engine, good luck with the repair! U do a good job in most of ur videos 👍✌️
18:45 them long lonely nights in the workshop
😅
I was thinking the exact same haha
Take out crank and get it reground if possible, usually what you try first, con-rods may be ok, then under sized bearings, oil pump and cooler etc, save lots of cash, !!! Good luck.
Strong wrists. I'd probably go with rebuilding that engine.
No dip stick............ yup. i can relate to that. Mrs came home one night saying her engine dosent sound right and asked me to look. I went out and started it. Display states engine oil level is OK. Said engine is done! I'm now waiting for Uncle Rodney to create a new ventilition port in the block.
I think that you have used an injector puller once or twice before Dean, just saying lmfao!🤣
There’s loads of engines about. And I have seen some short block from Germany. All quite reasonably priced. That’s the route I would take.
Even a second hand engine could end up hanging the same problem in a few thousands miles. A New one is too expensive.. so this leaves you just one reasonable choice 😂😂
Exactly...
Another great video Dean. Love seeing how you diagnose any issues and what it takes to fix. Spannering far out of my league but inspirational non the less. Keep up the good work! 🤓
13:27 at least now we know you actually human😂😂
😂
Of all the car youtube channels I watch, you have by far the most disorganised workshop! :)
60k miles...wow, so many replacement parts and a blown engine. I'm scared of Audi 😮😮😮
That’s in a reason I don’t buy German .. fooking junk
I'm in Australia and am fixing a diesel ix35 with the exact same problem which is the crank has locked up due to overheating. Firstly I scoured the normal places on the net and everything was a fortune,so I then contacted machine shops in China through Ali express which was cheaper. Next i got onto a machine shop in Perth and he will grind my shaft for $350 ,he thinks as it locked up and wasn't knocking for ages that the conrods will be fine.
18:26 "No stupid comments" I immediately come to the comment section
Me too. Must be the anticipation that the release of the injector gave when Dean's hand/wrist action reached its climax.
Regrind crank and new bearings to suit, keep in budget as much as possible! That’s what the home mechanic has to try and do anyway 👍🏼
Your sense of humor is one of a kind. Keep being awesome.
No stupid comments🤭
Great video, good to see the pitfalls and choices laid out if it doesn't pan out. For me, it would be, park it up and wait for another car with the same engine but smashed in the rear or sides etc or simply break it and get some money back, that gearbox should go for good money, plus you've got all panels interior etc etc etc. It's not like you're short of a project or two! Keep up the good work, I enjoy this channel a lot.
Fix it put on compete for cars
Don’t rush! You’ve got the TVR to do anyways lol! But that aside, an engine will come up! And it will be reasonably priced
Crank and rods then raffle it.
May aswell rebuild, but cheapest way posible! Clean the crank up and put in bigger bearings etc! At least it will be as good as new!
Buy a crash damaged donor car.
Only diagnostic tool you need for VAG products is VCDS witch I remember you used to use.
As a mechanic with 50 years experience, i ALWAYS change the points, cap, & condenser. Works every time for me! 😊
Er this car has no points cap or condenser.
Obviously that 50 years experience was from 1925 to 1975 😂
I remember thoes things, I'm really old. 🙄
A good way to check if water damage is to drain the oil first ! There is always water at the bottom,/ as oil floats on water
Re grind crank
I would add to the list new torque converter and rocker arms. If you can’t get the engine to spin you’ll end up cutting the torque converter off and the rocker arms( needle bearings in rocker arms) you probably know are most common failure on these Audi engines.
18:39 i should probaly call her
😂😂😂
I have the same car but 2017. In your situation it would be so easy to build the car with a bigger turbo and stage tune it to 400 BHP, fit an RS kit and you would be looking closer to 16,000 for it. As the bi turbo is quite rare and you would end up with a more powerful machine, take it out of the market for being the standard car it is, and push it to its full potential
Break it. The gearbox gotta be worth a few quid? Save yourself some heartache!
I’m rebuilding a BMW motorbike engine at the moment but this is next level 😮 I’d never remember the order of everything - it’s just so complex. Hope you decide to rebuild it - just to watch and learn
Buy a sub 1k phaeton, strip the engine out and then sell on the rest.
Job done, nice phaeton content and all round happiness.
I should get my own channel.
Please, if you do that, do it with an A6 or something, and if you need parts for a Phaeton, at least strip a gas engine one. At least in Germany, the TDI ones are usually more valuable and definitely more desirable than the gas ones, as every gas engine offered in them is shit in some way. W12 gets horrible gas mileage and is expensive to fix, V8 gets piston slap all the time, V6 and VR6 are slow and get bad gas mileage. The diesels are also not perfect, V10 is unreliable and V6 gets horrible fuel mileage, but are still much better daily drivers than the gas ones. A worn out (maybe crashed) A6 is dirt cheap and way less desirable, and noone will be pissed if you strip it.
@@unmountablebootvolume I'm not too offended by the mpg and acceptable level of boot from my V6 phaeton.
I do agree on the petrols though, you're bang on there.
@@runningvalver Yeah, the newer V6 isn't that bad, even the old one was "good" compared to the V8 or W12, but could draw more than the V10 on the highway due to an outdated turbo design and the badly matched gearbox revving it too high while cruising, making it quite disappointing for people who were expecting it to be much more economical than the V10. So it wans't horrible compared to the others, but it was horrible compared to people's expectation of 5L/100km, when in reality, it was often closer to 8+L. To be more specific, I meant the very first V6 TDI from the GP0/1 (not the later one) is much worse in terms of fuel mileage than the newer (dieselgate and after) euro5+ V6s, mainly due to them having a better turbo and gearbox.
@@unmountablebootvolume I'd have considered the later to be on topic as that's essentially what we're dealing with on the Audi.
In the UK they're cheap ATM as the tax is £80 per month and that kills the cars.
I had an e32 750 so I am still respectful of the later spec mpg and not bad nice shifting box.
Re grind the crank and put her back together. Not worth spending a mint! It is amazing how shit VAG are for failure, not exactly cheap motors either. Do Skodas suffer v6 Tdi failures in the Superb???
If you rebuild the engine be sure you check the turbo too. Probably you know. I know a lot of people change the turbo too on that kind of jobs.
Sorry to say Dean, but I think you should part this one out. Sure, it's fixable with a new used engine, but is it economical to do that? Unless you can get a parts car with a good engine, then sell off whatever parts you don't need.
That technique at 18:30 was phenomenal
These engines are known for timing chain/tensioners failing. When you said the engine was seized I actually thought that was the issue. But yeah, they are also known for problems on the crankshaft bearings so no surprises. Audi engineers actually did reduce the oil pressure on these engines on purpose to "increase fuel economy and reduce pollution, they said". That can be fixed with an oil pressure fix tune that raises oil pressure to what it actually should be and I STRONGLY advice you to do it once the engine is repaired or even if you get a new/used engine. That can really avoid important damage in the future. Do it also on your Q7.
18:35 give it some hawk tuh spit on that thang 😂😂😂
Probably the best option is to break the car for spares, I know it doesn't fix it but with the new gearbox and bits you know are good you should quickly clear the cost and some.
Crank Regrind is the sensible option to repair this, then you can actually make some money on resale
Don't forget to replace the harmonic vibration damper,. If it hasn't fallen apart yet it, it will. Mine fell apart at car park speed, so no damage.
This is a common failure, and its why second hand engines are so expensive (when you can actually find them..) The issue is though that the engines fail so often and at such low mileages, you are likely to be replacing it with one thats just about to go bang, The trouble normally starts with the chains and oil pump btw. You are a clever bloke so really your best option is to repair rather than replace. These lumps are in a whole load of VAG models. They are gorgeous when they are working. Low miles and FULL dealer history is the only way to go! In honesty if your own one with anything less than impeccable history, I would bail out while its still working. VAG techs tell me they will do the miles when they are serviced properly with the right oil. Fix it and show us how its done! Lovely things when they work!
Only 4 min in, just want to say - I got a OEM dipstick for my 4.0TT, got real tired of not being able to check the actual level, whenever I wanted. As you say, the tube is already there…
You do love a gamble Dean. Looking forward to seeing what you do to it.
Repair/rebuild it mate, for the simple fact that you can't know the condition of the used engine. When here everything inside the wngine will be new/rebuilt. Cheers for the great video.
The budget is stuffed whichever way you go. Easiest option is to go for that used engine.
However for continu3d excellent content, fixing the engine is the way to go.
Great content! Love to see average cars on the channel.
Rebuild the engine.
It’s a nice car, seems like you could
probably make your money back parting it out. Might make for an interesting experiment?
Go get machine shop costs if you do the assembly and pull down yours self it will be cheaper, I would just get the crank ground 10 under and unless the conrods are totally smoked get them refurbished or look for a recon set or search high and low for a short motor
AS AN OLD SCHOOL MECHANIC , I WOULD GO FOR CRANK GRIND , OVERSISE BEARINGS , NEW OIL PUMP AND FULL ENGINE AND OIL PICK UP FLUSH
Rebuild the lump, second hand ones can be problematic, and if so you have got to take the bugger out again if its crap to return it, genuine VAG parts you won't go wrong.
Definitely rebuild the engine. I'll bet the rods can be resized and the crank can be ground down. Of course you didn't get the button end disassembled completely yet to get a good look.🤔✌️😎
Rebuild. Be proud of your work and get this to tip top shape. Plus content for days
Hi dean have you thought about biding on a cat b like you done in the past and remove the engine and gearbox and then sell the gear box and any other parts you mite need and also you could turn this around possibly a hive a better margin on the car sale thanks Tim
Shame about the seizure Dean, but nice car and worth saving. Content for channel will be good seeing as its a diesel this time and you've not done a full proper tear down and rebuild of bearings etc for a little while. Added bonus is it has a new gearbox and other parts so I say rebuild with the caveat that you need to be able to check the rest of it first to see if anything else is toast.