Plans for the jig►www.stumpynubs.com/product/bench-hook-shooting-board/ When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Dura Grit Carbide Sanding Products: (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS): duragrit.com/home.php
I'll use your code. I've seen ya use these a few times and 40 bucks for a tool like that seems pretty fair with light use hopefully get a good year out of it then it's well worth the money. Cool shooting board btw.
I've made a miniature version of that because I'm a modeller as well as a hobby woodworker. In the UK we have PermaGrit which is similar to Dura Grit and you can get a sheet of thin steel with embedded grit , allowing custom sanding tools to be made. I've got one of their sanding blocks too - an aluminium extrusion with 2 different grits on opposing faces. It's 90 degrees too and I wouldn't be without it sometimes ! Keep these videos coming please, I always learn something.
I bought the Dura Grit sander to work with my shooting board. It left some deep scratch lines in my board. I reported my issue to Dura Grit and they sent me a replacement. First replacement had same issue, although to a lesser degree, second replacement works fantastically well. Dura Grit customer service went above and beyond to get me a quality tool. I will buy some of their other products too. Highly recommended.
Excellent tip James. I must get one of those sanding blocks. Great idea about replaceable parts on the shooting board. Thank you for sharing. Have a good day and continue to stay healthy.
So cool. I love watching woodworking videos. Watched only two videos here and I have learnt something from both. Mortises and shooting blocks. Those 45 degree cuts and the extensions are so neat.
I wanted to know if folding portable workbenches exist? I live in a flat, so less space. And I'm not from the US or UK. So I'd have to find out about availability.
My forehead is getting sore from watching your videos. Each time I see your simple lessons to make me better at my craft, I slap my forehead and say, "That's so obvious, why haven't I been doing that all along?" Thanks - keep it up
I just made one of those last weekend using a miter gauge, and have a video on my channel for it. I even used a sanding block that uses those belt sander belts on it. I do not have plans as what I did was simple and just used an existing miter gauge I had in a drawer, and your plans are always cool. So I could have used your video a week ago. :)
I had wondered why the plane didn't chew up the shooting board. Thanks much for the information. I'll now have to make that modification to the Duragrit sanding block I bought the last time you talked about them. Thumbs up to crush a troll.
I have these carbide sanding blocks. I bought them when I bought the disks for the orbital sander. They all work really well. Not cheap but they REALLY last, like 3 years. (Your mileage may vary)
Model builders ( architectural models and model railroad scratch builders) have used a sliding sanding surface just like this for many many decades. Our platforms are often set up with a 90 and a variable angle fence. They make short work of dressing up a nice end on exposed rafters, boards, framing ends, etc. For both basswood and styrene, dressing cuts to shape always assures both great appearance and good fit.
noobie woodworker here, retired corpsman looking to stay busy and learn. Doing small projects to make a few bucks. You're videos have been instrumental to learning hand tools and keeping them in tune. Now Dura Grit has a new customer. Keep the vids coming, thx for passing on ur knowledge.
Just a FYI... Lee Valley sells "Veritas Shooting Sanders" in both 8" and 16" lengths. They accept PSA backed sandpaper (various grits) and have that 1/4" wide bottom lip to prevent the sander eating into the shooting board fence (like plane's have). The sanders are made from machined aluminum extrusions with a nice adjustable wooden knob to guide the sander along your shooting board. The 8" sander is $40 US. The 16" sander is $57 US. I have no affiliation to Lee Valley/Veritas, but I do own the 8" sander. Of course, the Duragrit sanding block has multiple uses where as the Lee Valley tool is strictly a shooting sander.
Great idea, James. I've seen you talk about those carbide sanding blocks before but now I'm getting serious about buying a couple. I currently have Microplanes for file substitutes but I had one go dull sanding red oak. These seem like a much better alternative. Stay safe and well. Bill
Thanks! I've been struggling with getting the strips I cut for my charcuterie boards to be perfectly 90 degrees (which is tricky since I start with rough, salvaged lumber and don't have a planer...I sand everything)...have been trying to square them on my belt sander, but I have nothing to brace it on so I have to eyeball everything. I'm going to order one of these sanding blocks and see if that will do the trick for me!
Thanks. Do you have plans for a sanding block shooting board that would sand at a 45 degree angle for small [6x6-12x12] boards? This could find use for some small projects.
I have to say, I acquired one of those Duragrit blocks a while back (at your recommendation), and while I *really* want it to be useful -- my woodworking is amateur and frequently needs touching up -- I find that it hardly seems to cut anything. Had the same issue with one of their random orbit discs, although eventually I managed to find a place for that. Whatever number the grit is labeled (and it certainly does feel coarse), it seems rounded rather than sharp, and I can rub it against end grain (in particular) for eons without making much progress on it.
Stumpy Nubs Guess I haven’t spoken with them about the block. We did have an exchange about the discs that (eventually) ended up working out... hate to be too much of a pain as they were helpful. I assumed it’s just the nature of ceramic. Do you find them to be similarly aggressive to regular sandpaper?
No, I have not had that problem. In fact I find them to be quite aggressive and to cut very well, especially lower grits. If your problem was solved when you contacted them about the discs, why not give them a chance to also correct the other problem?
@@StumpyNubs I tend to trust the people making a living from the woodworking, such as yourself, versus the ones making a living from UA-cam for the sake of UA-cam. Thanks for the reply.
Allen, James is on point here. There are countless videos out there. However, check out the videos made by Stone Coat Countertops. They've got a lot of really good tutorials and an extensive product line, focused on epoxy, that all works together. I'm not being paid by them. In fact, I've never bought from them. I did the countertops in my man cave with copper paint over-coated with clear epoxy from Total Boat (wish I could add a picture here). I only used Total Boat because at the time, I could get Total Boat products at a discount because I was a member of Maker's Playground. However, if I were to do it again, I'd go with Stone Coat. Their product is much more forgiving for a beginner since it has a longer working time (45 minutes vs. the 20 minutes for the Total Boat stuff I used). Also, Check out Jess Crowe. She's doing a lot of really cool epoxy tables. ua-cam.com/users/JessCrowvideos .
James, great alternative shooting use - I have been loving those sanding blocks. Question, can the plans for this be easily altered to use with Japanese pull saws instead of Western push? Would it be as simple as just relocating the hook to the other side? Any issues with doing that which would alter the versatility of this design?
I'd just turn it around so the fence is facing you and put the strip on the bottom that creates the hook under the fence. It will still hook on your side of the bench, but you can pinch the hook in the vise to secure it.
@@StumpyNubs Sorry to butt in, but I routinely use pull saws whenever I hand saw anything. They work great with a bench hook, and I don't have to turn it around, just normal pressure holding the work is enough.
James, do you use the carbide sanding discs in place of other material sanders? I love the idea of a durable sander, but instances I've seen you reference them make it sound like you use them for special circumstances and not as a replacement.
1:09 mark ... the side of the plane does not have to be perpendicular to the sole. You must use the lateral adjustment to ensure the cutting iron is perpendicular to the sole regardless if the plane's body is square.
While you can laterally adjust the iron to compensate for an out of square side, it is much better to have the side/sole square to each other so you can use the same iron setup for planing with or without the shooting board. Nobody wants to fiddle with and skew the lateral adjustment every time you get your shooting board out.
@@StumpyNubs True, nobody wants to, but it's foolish to think the plane's adjustment remains constant. Always verify before cutting. With most bench planes, it is prudent to ensure the lateral adjustment is OK since it can get knocked off kilter so easily.
When I pick up a hand plane off my rack, I can plane with it immediately. I seldom have to fiddle with the lateral adjustment unless I remove the blade to sharpen it. Even if my planes were getting "knocked off kilter" frequently, why would I intentionally skew it for a shooting board, then have to adjust it back? Why not instead use a good plane for the shooting board? Or adjust the side of a slightly out of square plane with a little sanding? Or if that's not practical, why not just adjust the shooting board by planing or shimming the track at a slight angle to compensate? There are a variety of permanent fixes for the problem. So why make more work for yourself every time you use the shooting board when you can fix the problem once and be done with it? My thinking is not "foolish" it's just different from yours.
No! The sides of a plane do NOT have to be perfectly square to the sole of a plane in order to use it for shooting. Lateral adjustment in the plane will allow the plane iron to be set square so that square ends or edges can be created. I like the sanding block idea. I think I'll give a try. Thanks.
I wouldn't be so quick to tell someone they are wrong... There's a reason for my statement: While you can laterally adjust the iron to compensate for an out of square side, it is much better to have the side/sole square to each other so you can use the same iron setup for planing with or without the shooting board. Nobody wants to fiddle with and skew the lateral adjustment every time you get your shooting board out.
Doug Commons, sometimes I daydream about having the sides of my planes reground, but I just pack up the track of my shooting board instead. Works better than monkeying with depth of cut.
Hi James, I am an avid hobbyist but I live in the UK and if I buy something from the USA I am hammered with import tax that is usually up to three or four times as much as the item, I have just checked the price of the sanding block using the “Stumpynubs” code and after this had been discounted with shipment (five weeks) and import tax I was looking at a bill of £93:20. Do not ask why the 20 pence, I don’t know but until the UK and USA (who are supposed to be friends) get their act together I am afraid I cannot but anything from the USA. I would hate to see the import tax if we were not friends.
John, It's not about the UK and US getting their act together, it's about two very different economic structures. Sure, my sales tax on goods is only 9.5% (which I don't pay on imported goods, btw) and I don't pay import taxes on goods purchased from other countries (if it's for personal use, not commercial distribution), but then we don't have nationalized health care either. I know the NHS and other social programs in the UK are much loved, but nothing is free. Those import taxes (3.7% duty and 20% VAT) are there to help pay for those programs. I'm not sure I missed other post fees, etc. We're in a not so different situation as the current exchange rate favors the UK when we want to purchase something, since currently the US dollar only buys about 76p of British goods. That 93.20 quid is $121.95 USD! As such, I really don't buy any British goods except a few flat-pack items I can't get elsewhere. I can't see anything but a one-world currency to solve the inequity in currency rates, and that's very 1984-ish. No thanks. Cheers.
...While you can laterally adjust the iron to compensate for an out of square side, it is much better to have the side/sole square to each other so you can use the same iron setup for planing with or without the shooting board. Nobody wants to fiddle with and skew the lateral adjustment every time you get your shooting board out.
@@StumpyNubs True, and it's not the greatest source of joy in the shed (at least not in mine), but for a hobbyist it may just be that you can't afford a dedicated high-end shooting plane from veritas or lie nielson, and are using vintage planes which weren't always exactly at right angles (my records are within a degree or two but it seems that for record at least only the shoulder planes got machined really accurately). In practice, my shooting plane is a cheap record T5 and that blade is effectively O1 so I have to take it out to sharpen it rather often anyway so the lateral adjuster always gets a workout. After a while, you get pretty quick at it, especially if you have one of those small cheap engineers 2" squares around or a 1-2-3 block.
Mark, I disagree that using the lateral adjuster is effective, unless we are talking about no more than a single shaving’s thickness. None of my planes are ground square enough for that. Pack up or plow out the track of your shooting board instead. No great trick.
I purchased the 90 degree sanding block. NOTE: it is NOT designed for interior corners! The sanding surface does NOT extend to the whole block face and this gap will ruin your interior corner. I returned it for a full refund but was very disappointed. The company honored their refund policy.
Muy Estimado Sr. Nubbs, I ordered and dutifully paid $5.00 for the Shooting Board/Bench Hook plans:. This is the order info: Transaction ID 6AH95049EN0385246 However, 24 hrs later, and they have not appeared by email or other electronic means. When and how will they be delivered? Gracias!
Plans for the jig►www.stumpynubs.com/product/bench-hook-shooting-board/
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Dura Grit Carbide Sanding Products: (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS): duragrit.com/home.php
The link to your website seems to be broken. Great video btw! Love the idea.
Would love to know the name brand of the drill bit and counter sink and where you got it
I'll use your code. I've seen ya use these a few times and 40 bucks for a tool like that seems pretty fair with light use hopefully get a good year out of it then it's well worth the money. Cool shooting board btw.
@@SeymourClearly2 The link in the description box works.
I've made a miniature version of that because I'm a modeller as well as a hobby woodworker. In the UK we have PermaGrit which is similar to Dura Grit and you can get a sheet of thin steel with embedded grit , allowing custom sanding tools to be made. I've got one of their sanding blocks too - an aluminium extrusion with 2 different grits on opposing faces. It's 90 degrees too and I wouldn't be without it sometimes ! Keep these videos coming please, I always learn something.
Thank you for teling me about PermaGrit.
Hi,
My boy sent me a couple Dura Grit sanding blocks (bless his heart) and I made your shooting board. I love it and thank you.
Really pleased to see a very relevant advice video. Very useful again. Simple but clever. No gimmicks, just really useful tips 👍
Wow, this is very helpful! Thank you :)
Thx, James. Bought the plans and a 90 degree sanding block. Just the ticket for my latest woodworking situation, lol.
I bought the Dura Grit sander to work with my shooting board. It left some deep scratch lines in my board. I reported my issue to Dura Grit and they sent me a replacement. First replacement had same issue, although to a lesser degree, second replacement works fantastically well. Dura Grit customer service went above and beyond to get me a quality tool. I will buy some of their other products too. Highly recommended.
I have learned a great deal from you and I very much appreciate your blog type video idea. So all I can say is "Thenk You"!
Excellent tip James. I must get one of those sanding blocks. Great idea about replaceable parts on the shooting board. Thank you for sharing. Have a good day and continue to stay healthy.
So glad you turned me on to carbide sanding block & orbital disks - ordering some right now (as soon as I leave this page)
Thank you for posting this video! I learn so much from your videos
What a great idea using a sanding block in lieu of block plane . Your are a woodworkers angel .Julien Lamarche
So cool. I love watching woodworking videos. Watched only two videos here and I have learnt something from both. Mortises and shooting blocks. Those 45 degree cuts and the extensions are so neat.
I wanted to know if folding portable workbenches exist? I live in a flat, so less space. And I'm not from the US or UK. So I'd have to find out about availability.
What a neat idea! Thanks for sharing this.
My forehead is getting sore from watching your videos. Each time I see your simple lessons to make me better at my craft, I slap my forehead and say, "That's so obvious, why haven't I been doing that all along?"
Thanks - keep it up
That was now very useful 👌
A novel idea, thanks Stumpy.
Great job James, thanks for sharing. Fred.
Great video James, thanks.
I just made one of those last weekend using a miter gauge, and have a video on my channel for it. I even used a sanding block that uses those belt sander belts on it. I do not have plans as what I did was simple and just used an existing miter gauge I had in a drawer, and your plans are always cool. So I could have used your video a week ago. :)
I have those sanding blocks. They work great.
I had wondered why the plane didn't chew up the shooting board. Thanks much for the information. I'll now have to make that modification to the Duragrit sanding block I bought the last time you talked about them. Thumbs up to crush a troll.
I do this all the time!
Just clicked the Dura Grit link and see a lot of stuff is 15% off. Good enough for me to finally pull the trigger on these!
I have these carbide sanding blocks. I bought them when I bought the disks for the orbital sander. They all work really well. Not cheap but they REALLY last, like 3 years. (Your mileage may vary)
Model builders ( architectural models and model railroad scratch builders) have used a sliding sanding surface just like this for many many decades. Our platforms are often set up with a 90 and a variable angle fence. They make short work of dressing up a nice end on exposed rafters, boards, framing ends, etc. For both basswood and styrene, dressing cuts to shape always assures both great appearance and good fit.
noobie woodworker here, retired corpsman looking to stay busy and learn. Doing small projects to make a few bucks. You're videos have been instrumental to learning hand tools and keeping them in tune. Now Dura Grit has a new customer. Keep the vids coming, thx for passing on ur knowledge.
Much easier to sand than plane end grain
Thanks for sharing that, well said!
Very informative and interesting stuff! Wish I knew half of what you know! I would consider myself a genius Thanks for your channel
I live in England shooting board does it for me keep up these videos James
Just a FYI... Lee Valley sells "Veritas Shooting Sanders" in both 8" and 16" lengths. They accept PSA backed sandpaper (various grits) and have that 1/4" wide bottom lip to prevent the sander eating into the shooting board fence (like plane's have). The sanders are made from machined aluminum extrusions with a nice adjustable wooden knob to guide the sander along your shooting board. The 8" sander is $40 US. The 16" sander is $57 US. I have no affiliation to Lee Valley/Veritas, but I do own the 8" sander. Of course, the Duragrit sanding block has multiple uses where as the Lee Valley tool is strictly a shooting sander.
Great idea, James. I've seen you talk about those carbide sanding blocks before but now I'm getting serious about buying a couple. I currently have Microplanes for file substitutes but I had one go dull sanding red oak. These seem like a much better alternative. Stay safe and well. Bill
Great video 👍🏻
Great idea.nice 🤗
Excelente 👍
On carbide...woodcarvers/sculptures have been using carbide embed rasps and files for durability and omnidirectional assets
Thanks for the coupon code. I can now buy a cold one. I deserve it. LOL
Good👍
Thanks! I've been struggling with getting the strips I cut for my charcuterie boards to be perfectly 90 degrees (which is tricky since I start with rough, salvaged lumber and don't have a planer...I sand everything)...have been trying to square them on my belt sander, but I have nothing to brace it on so I have to eyeball everything. I'm going to order one of these sanding blocks and see if that will do the trick for me!
Thanks. Do you have plans for a sanding block shooting board that would sand at a 45 degree angle for small [6x6-12x12] boards? This could find use for some small projects.
Wish we could get these carbide bits in Australia
👍
I have to say, I acquired one of those Duragrit blocks a while back (at your recommendation), and while I *really* want it to be useful -- my woodworking is amateur and frequently needs touching up -- I find that it hardly seems to cut anything. Had the same issue with one of their random orbit discs, although eventually I managed to find a place for that. Whatever number the grit is labeled (and it certainly does feel coarse), it seems rounded rather than sharp, and I can rub it against end grain (in particular) for eons without making much progress on it.
What happened when you contacted them about it?
Stumpy Nubs Guess I haven’t spoken with them about the block. We did have an exchange about the discs that (eventually) ended up working out... hate to be too much of a pain as they were helpful. I assumed it’s just the nature of ceramic. Do you find them to be similarly aggressive to regular sandpaper?
No, I have not had that problem. In fact I find them to be quite aggressive and to cut very well, especially lower grits. If your problem was solved when you contacted them about the discs, why not give them a chance to also correct the other problem?
@@StumpyNubs Okay, okay, fiiiine... will give it a shot.
@@tagbagzag Well what happened?
😊👍
I really do enjoy all your videos. What are your thoughts on live edge and/or epoxy pours? Are they doable for the weekend warrior?
Sure, they are doable. There are about a million UA-cam channels doing them. It's very trendy :)
@@StumpyNubs I tend to trust the people making a living from the woodworking, such as yourself, versus the ones making a living from UA-cam for the sake of UA-cam. Thanks for the reply.
Allen, James is on point here. There are countless videos out there. However, check out the videos made by Stone Coat Countertops. They've got a lot of really good tutorials and an extensive product line, focused on epoxy, that all works together. I'm not being paid by them. In fact, I've never bought from them. I did the countertops in my man cave with copper paint over-coated with clear epoxy from Total Boat (wish I could add a picture here). I only used Total Boat because at the time, I could get Total Boat products at a discount because I was a member of Maker's Playground. However, if I were to do it again, I'd go with Stone Coat. Their product is much more forgiving for a beginner since it has a longer working time (45 minutes vs. the 20 minutes for the Total Boat stuff I used). Also, Check out Jess Crowe. She's doing a lot of really cool epoxy tables. ua-cam.com/users/JessCrowvideos .
How long does the loop fabric on the back of the sanding disks last?
Quite a while. And it can be replaced if it wears out.
James, great alternative shooting use - I have been loving those sanding blocks. Question, can the plans for this be easily altered to use with Japanese pull saws instead of Western push? Would it be as simple as just relocating the hook to the other side? Any issues with doing that which would alter the versatility of this design?
I'd just turn it around so the fence is facing you and put the strip on the bottom that creates the hook under the fence. It will still hook on your side of the bench, but you can pinch the hook in the vise to secure it.
@@StumpyNubs Sorry to butt in, but I routinely use pull saws whenever I hand saw anything. They work great with a bench hook, and I don't have to turn it around, just normal pressure holding the work is enough.
James, do you use the carbide sanding discs in place of other material sanders? I love the idea of a durable sander, but instances I've seen you reference them make it sound like you use them for special circumstances and not as a replacement.
Some people use them as a replacement. I personally use them for course sanding and leveling, followed by finer paper for finish sanding.
@@StumpyNubs, you rock! Thanks for your response.
1:09 mark ... the side of the plane does not have to be perpendicular to the sole. You must use the lateral adjustment to ensure the cutting iron is perpendicular to the sole regardless if the plane's body is square.
While you can laterally adjust the iron to compensate for an out of square side, it is much better to have the side/sole square to each other so you can use the same iron setup for planing with or without the shooting board. Nobody wants to fiddle with and skew the lateral adjustment every time you get your shooting board out.
@@StumpyNubs True, nobody wants to, but it's foolish to think the plane's adjustment remains constant. Always verify before cutting. With most bench planes, it is prudent to ensure the lateral adjustment is OK since it can get knocked off kilter so easily.
When I pick up a hand plane off my rack, I can plane with it immediately. I seldom have to fiddle with the lateral adjustment unless I remove the blade to sharpen it. Even if my planes were getting "knocked off kilter" frequently, why would I intentionally skew it for a shooting board, then have to adjust it back? Why not instead use a good plane for the shooting board? Or adjust the side of a slightly out of square plane with a little sanding? Or if that's not practical, why not just adjust the shooting board by planing or shimming the track at a slight angle to compensate? There are a variety of permanent fixes for the problem. So why make more work for yourself every time you use the shooting board when you can fix the problem once and be done with it? My thinking is not "foolish" it's just different from yours.
No! The sides of a plane do NOT have to be perfectly square to the sole of a plane in order to use it for shooting. Lateral adjustment in the plane will allow the plane iron to be set square so that square ends or edges can be created. I like the sanding block idea. I think I'll give a try. Thanks.
I wouldn't be so quick to tell someone they are wrong... There's a reason for my statement: While you can laterally adjust the iron to compensate for an out of square side, it is much better to have the side/sole square to each other so you can use the same iron setup for planing with or without the shooting board. Nobody wants to fiddle with and skew the lateral adjustment every time you get your shooting board out.
Doug Commons, sometimes I daydream about having the sides of my planes reground, but I just pack up the track of my shooting board instead. Works better than monkeying with depth of cut.
Next thing you know Dura-Grit bring out the 'Stumpy Nubs' sanding block for shooting boards.
Not a bad idea :)
Dura-Nubs, or Stumppy-Grit?
Can't go to plans..............page not found 404
www.stumpynubs.com/product/bench-hook-shooting-board/
@@StumpyNubs thanks
Hi James, I am an avid hobbyist but I live in the UK and if I buy something from the USA I am hammered with import tax that is usually up to three or four times as much as the item, I have just checked the price of the sanding block using the “Stumpynubs” code and after this had been discounted with shipment (five weeks) and import tax I was looking at a bill of £93:20. Do not ask why the 20 pence, I don’t know but until the UK and USA (who are supposed to be friends) get their act together I am afraid I cannot but anything from the USA. I would hate to see the import tax if we were not friends.
John, It's not about the UK and US getting their act together, it's about two very different economic structures. Sure, my sales tax on goods is only 9.5% (which I don't pay on imported goods, btw) and I don't pay import taxes on goods purchased from other countries (if it's for personal use, not commercial distribution), but then we don't have nationalized health care either. I know the NHS and other social programs in the UK are much loved, but nothing is free. Those import taxes (3.7% duty and 20% VAT) are there to help pay for those programs. I'm not sure I missed other post fees, etc. We're in a not so different situation as the current exchange rate favors the UK when we want to purchase something, since currently the US dollar only buys about 76p of British goods. That 93.20 quid is $121.95 USD! As such, I really don't buy any British goods except a few flat-pack items I can't get elsewhere. I can't see anything but a one-world currency to solve the inequity in currency rates, and that's very 1984-ish. No thanks. Cheers.
...my handplanes aren't all right angles between side and sole. That's what the side-to-side adjuster is for...
...While you can laterally adjust the iron to compensate for an out of square side, it is much better to have the side/sole square to each other so you can use the same iron setup for planing with or without the shooting board. Nobody wants to fiddle with and skew the lateral adjustment every time you get your shooting board out.
@@StumpyNubs True, and it's not the greatest source of joy in the shed (at least not in mine), but for a hobbyist it may just be that you can't afford a dedicated high-end shooting plane from veritas or lie nielson, and are using vintage planes which weren't always exactly at right angles (my records are within a degree or two but it seems that for record at least only the shoulder planes got machined really accurately).
In practice, my shooting plane is a cheap record T5 and that blade is effectively O1 so I have to take it out to sharpen it rather often anyway so the lateral adjuster always gets a workout. After a while, you get pretty quick at it, especially if you have one of those small cheap engineers 2" squares around or a 1-2-3 block.
I used vintage Stanleys for shooting planes. Sometimes you have to tweak them by sanding the side to square them up.
Mark, I disagree that using the lateral adjuster is effective, unless we are talking about no more than a single shaving’s thickness. None of my planes are ground square enough for that. Pack up or plow out the track of your shooting board instead. No great trick.
I purchased the 90 degree sanding block. NOTE: it is NOT designed for interior corners! The sanding surface does NOT extend to the whole block face and this gap will ruin your interior corner. I returned it for a full refund but was very disappointed. The company honored their refund policy.
Muy Estimado Sr. Nubbs,
I ordered and dutifully paid $5.00 for the Shooting Board/Bench Hook plans:. This is the order info:
Transaction ID
6AH95049EN0385246
However, 24 hrs later, and they have not appeared by email or other electronic means.
When and how will they be delivered?
Gracias!