Thanks Alec, you answered many of my questions about the old 72’s which I still use to this day and yes, I made a set of doubles out of two a couple of years ago. Just a little lighter than my old set of 130 steel doubles I once owned. My 75 yr old back thanks me mightily! I now mainly dive Sidemount with my single 72’s. So much easier to donn & doff the 2 tanks in the water etc. Keep up the great video’s.
I found a 1967 Voit tank with the yellow vinyl coating at an estate sale for 5 bucks. I almost didn't get it due to the coating, but I figured what have I got to lose? I took it to my LDS (which itself is vintage from 1953) and to my amazement, it passed both visual and hydro tests and is sitting here ready to go. The latest stamp when I found it was from 1977.
Once again Alec, great video. I loved my double 72's, great balance underwater and almost indestructible. I had them tumbled inside, stripped and galvanized outside. You just can't kill them. (within reason)
Yep! That's one thing I didn't mention (Kevin was waving at me to wrap it up!!). Steel tanks are more durable. If you drop an aluminum tank from 5' onto a cement floor it may be damaged permanently. A steel tank will just bounce back up. Alec
I just bought 4 for $40, $10 a piece with a set of bands for &15. I plan on turning 2 of them into a set of doubles after they are hydro tested. I already have a manifold from my lip 95’s.
They make great doubles and with proper care and inspections could be given to the next generation of divers. Won't they look cool too!. Thanks for watching. Alec
Good video. But you didn't mention the 72 steel that I have. A USD that is teflon lined. So how long did they make those? Just got it back today after a new hydro, VIP, and having a new K DIN valve put on it. So my low pressure 72 has passed inspection for the umpteenth time, and will go on for at least 5 more years. My wife is looking forward to using it for shallow dives, where she can drop 4 lbs of lead and maintain better end of dive buoyancy. She also likes the fact that its a little shorter and lighter than an 80, easier to carry around. I don't know anyone who has an aluminum tank that has survived as long as my ancient 72, and I dive with some genuine codgers. I got that tank used back in about 1976 for a song. Such a deal. I used to get an easy hour out of this on dives when I was young and fit, and my wife has an excellent consumption rate, so it will probably last her even longer. Well maintained 72's are worthy!
Well I certainly agree that a well-maintained 72 is a thing of beauty. Your comment that no aluminum tank lasts as long as a 72 may be true. We're not sure yet since the 72s pre-date the aluminum tanks by about 20 years!! I'm a bit surprised that your LDS doesn't remove the Teflon. Actually I'm surprised that it's Telfon lined since true Teflon was not in wide use when the 72s were in production. Teflon was discovered in 1938 but not used in volume until the mid-50s. Regardless, a 72 that has passed hydro and a good visual is worth it's weight. By 'good' I mean that they have seen the steel insides and found it free of substantial corrosion. I only mention this since it's tough to see the steel if the tanks is lined. My wife is just like your wife - she loves her 72 for the same reasons. Good luck. Alec
Alec, thanks for one more great video. Watching your channel for a year and learned a lot about scuba equipment from your videos. I recently moved to the US from Singapore, where I started scuba diving, and slowly adjusting to the diving culture in America. One thing I noticed is that most divers have their own tanks. I want to purchase scuba tank as well and would be happy to see in the future episodes how to choose used tanks and what should I pay attention to.
I stopped using that style of tank boot, as it retains water, I switch to a larger more open tank boot like you found on the old Genesis HP tanks. Also with the galvanized tanks I found I have to paint over the hydro stamp with a cold galvanizing spary or else it rusts.
Yep. You're referring to the Self-Draining boot that won't hold water. And you're quite right about the aluminum or galvanized spray on the test stamp. Some stations do it, some don't. Alec
Thank you for another great video! I've been scuba diving since 1973 and have 2 aluminum 72 cf tanks, branded US Divers, that have initial test date of 1972. I've owned them since 1974 and they have given me many years of service. They were last hydro'd in 2015 and have EV after that stamp. I'm getting back into scuba diving after free diving the north coast of California for the last 25 years. In your opinion, should I spend the $55 + $30 each for the hydro and Eddy current test required to re-certify these 2 tanks or just retire them and buy another aluminum 80 under current hydro for $120? I already bought 1 80cf. These 72s are about 4 lbs bouyant when empty but it was never a problem for me in the many, many dives I've used them for. Your videos have been a wealth of information and I really enjoy your presentation; like getting advice from an old friend! I've upgraded my computer and other equipment after watching your videos. I don't want members of the club I just joined to be afraid to dive with me after they see my old equipment. Thanks in advance for your advice. Dan
Hi Dan. The two 1972 72's only need hydro and a VIS to be dive ready. Eddy current is not mandatory but used should any hint of a crack pop up. These tanks are almost new compared to the late 1950's tanks my vintage friends regularly use. As to keep these or buy new, only you know which tanks make your diving feel comfortable. Since you a "new" diver like me, comfort and trim are very important to us kids, both in and out of the water. If keeping the 72's, when ready to dive, borrow a 80 aluminum and test dive both tanks to see which feel right. Hope this help and keep on diving my young friend. A.
Hi Alec you mentioned tumbling off the paint on the inside for inspection, but doesn't that expose raw steel that can rust? so you are back to the original rusting issues of the past? Owen m
Steel tanks are all plain steel on the inside. If they are kept dry it's not a problem. It can be an issue but care on the diver's part and the annual visual pretty much take care of it. Alec
Thank you for this great video on the great steel 72 tanks! You are very a great teacher, inspiring and extremely informative! I have a coupe of sets of very nice hot dipped galvanized non painted Norris 72s. They are 3AA 2250 series, Oring straight thread with the modern oring K valves. I understand the 3AA signifies chromemoly steel, 2250 PSI with a + stamp on the original hydro so 2475 PSI w/plus. They have only been in fresh water and are in superb condition. Born in the early 70s. I had them hydro'd and they did not put a plus sign on them, they said they do not know how to do this. Does anyone have any advice on helping the hydro shop get a plus hydro stamp on these. Does anyone know where I can find the REE data on early 1970s Norris steel 72 tanks, or who can hydro + these tanks in California Oregon, Idaho or Nevada with Plus hydro? The extra air is nice. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks Alec, your scuba videos are by far the best! Thank Kevin as well, I know you are in the background somewhere working away!
My understanding here in Canada is that a Hydro Test Inspector must have an additional accreditation to do a + hydro. Even then they don't do it often. In the US these tests are monitored by the DOT. Perhaps someone there can help. Alec
A few yrs ago I brought my steel 72s to the Florida Keys. Brought them in to a dive shop there for a fill and the manager called his entire staff over to show them what a steel 72 with a J valve was. Guess they never saw one. Of course the tanks were older than most of the staff
Not surprising to me. Florida was one of the areas most influential in setting up the visual test program for scuba. I'm sure they are very conscientious there to avoid accidents. There have more than a few in Florida although not recently I think. I'm sure that steel 72s are quite rare in Florida. Alec
Foo Foo diving? That sounds fun. Watch my video on New Uses for Old Scuba Tanks, S12E16. Some amazing ideas plus read the comments for even more creative uses.
I've been wanting a pair of 72's. I just saw a pair at a pawn shop for $40 that haven't been used since the 70's, but I'm not sure what costs would be involved to bring them up to date. Obviously hydro tested, possibly tumbled, but what else? Do the threads need to be re-cut?
You will need a hydro and a visual. It's not likely they need tumbling since the coated tanks are quite rare now. Even tumbling is cheap. Your total investment to get them ready to use will be about $50. Alec
Don't jump in!!!! Truly, a first night dive is best if conducted from shore so the divers can walk in slowly, duck under for a look and once they're calm, go ahead. It's always a bit stressful jumping into deep water at night, at least until you are very experienced and know the area well. Ask the instructor if you can ease into the water somehow so you can have a look around before swimming off or down. I'm sure you will find it very exciting. Good luck. ALEC
Alec, I'm going off topic, What is the wood from your mantle from? PS I did have a steel 72 with a J valve, don't know what happened to it, probably stolen;
That mantle was a 14" x 14" pine barn beam from an old barn, since fallen down, around the corner from our home. It was originally over 20' long. I sliced it in half so it was 7" tall x 14" deep and then lagged it tight to the wall. It's bolted to wall studs through a full length metal plate. If the house falls down, that mantle will still be there! That barn was made using holes and pegs. You can see some of the holes, both round and oval and I have a couple of the pegs too. Alec
I just did my first open water pool dive today. It didn't go so well. I would stay completely still and for some reason the scuba tank would push my head forward and down. Arch your back. I tried that and it didn't work. That doesn't address the root cause of the problem anyway. Not only that, I would noticeably start drifting when other people were perfectly still. What is causing the tank to push me face down into the water?
It's not an uncommon problem. If you are a small person, ask the school if they have smaller tank to use. The standard tank may simply be too long and too heavy. I should mention that the pool is an unnatural place to sort out such problems. Once you are in open water, you will find things work much better. Try shifting your weights towards the back of your belt so they are all behind the center-line of your body. That will help to counterbalance the weight of the tank. If your instructor will allow it (no reason not to but he might not like the idea) try putting a small weight (2-3 pound) on the tank band at the center back. That too will help hold the tank vertical. And you may just need a bit more weight. Try maybe 2 or 3 pounds more to help you be more stable. There is no 'rule of thumb' or any formula for how much weight you need. It's a very individual thing. Good luck. Alec
That was never a big deal years ago but it is commonly done now. There is no regulation about it but the inspector must be certain there is no corrosion on the exterior and the only way to be sure is to look under the stickers so, off they come. Alec
Thanks Alec, you answered many of my questions about the old 72’s which I still use to this day and yes, I made a set of doubles out of two a couple of years ago. Just a little lighter than my old set of 130 steel doubles I once owned. My 75 yr old back thanks me mightily! I now mainly dive Sidemount with my single 72’s. So much easier to donn & doff the 2 tanks in the water etc. Keep up the great video’s.
Yeah! They were really handy tanks and for an experienced diver, they last as long as an Aluminum 80.
Hard to beat.
Alec
I found a 1967 Voit tank with the yellow vinyl coating at an estate sale for 5 bucks. I almost didn't get it due to the coating, but I figured what have I got to lose? I took it to my LDS (which itself is vintage from 1953) and to my amazement, it passed both visual and hydro tests and is sitting here ready to go. The latest stamp when I found it was from 1977.
That is a good buy. Lots of tech divers use steel 72's for decompression and cave diving so there are buyers if you want to sell latter.
A
I love steel 72s, own 13 of them and always looking for more. Great for teaching students.
They are perfect for new OW divers. If only there were more around.
A
Hi Alec, I enjoyed watching you talk about steel cylinders. Thanks👍
Thanks for watching Mark.
Alec
Once again Alec, great video. I loved my double 72's, great balance underwater and almost indestructible. I had them tumbled inside, stripped and galvanized outside. You just can't kill them. (within reason)
Yep! That's one thing I didn't mention (Kevin was waving at me to wrap it up!!).
Steel tanks are more durable. If you drop an aluminum tank from 5' onto a cement floor it may be damaged permanently. A steel tank will just bounce back up.
Alec
Thanks for the the great info !
I just bought 4 for $40, $10 a piece with a set of bands for &15. I plan on turning 2 of them into a set of doubles after they are hydro tested. I already have a manifold from my lip 95’s.
They make great doubles and with proper care and inspections could be given to the next generation of divers. Won't they look cool too!.
Thanks for watching.
Alec
if you have your setup made yet, how are you liking it?
Good video.
But you didn't mention the 72 steel that I have. A USD that is teflon lined. So how long did they make those?
Just got it back today after a new hydro, VIP, and having a new K DIN valve put on it. So my low pressure 72 has passed inspection for the umpteenth time, and will go on for at least 5 more years. My wife is looking forward to using it for shallow dives, where she can drop 4 lbs of lead and maintain better end of dive buoyancy. She also likes the fact that its a little shorter and lighter than an 80, easier to carry around.
I don't know anyone who has an aluminum tank that has survived as long as my ancient 72, and I dive with some genuine codgers. I got that tank used back in about 1976 for a song. Such a deal. I used to get an easy hour out of this on dives when I was young and fit, and my wife has an excellent consumption rate, so it will probably last her even longer. Well maintained 72's are worthy!
Well I certainly agree that a well-maintained 72 is a thing of beauty.
Your comment that no aluminum tank lasts as long as a 72 may be true. We're not sure yet since the 72s pre-date the aluminum tanks by about 20 years!!
I'm a bit surprised that your LDS doesn't remove the Teflon. Actually I'm surprised that it's Telfon lined since true Teflon was not in wide use when the 72s were in production. Teflon was discovered in 1938 but not used in volume until the mid-50s.
Regardless, a 72 that has passed hydro and a good visual is worth it's weight. By 'good' I mean that they have seen the steel insides and found it free of substantial corrosion. I only mention this since it's tough to see the steel if the tanks is lined.
My wife is just like your wife - she loves her 72 for the same reasons.
Good luck.
Alec
Alec, thanks for one more great video. Watching your channel for a year and learned a lot about scuba equipment from your videos. I recently moved to the US from Singapore, where I started scuba diving, and slowly adjusting to the diving culture in America. One thing I noticed is that most divers have their own tanks. I want to purchase scuba tank as well and would be happy to see in the future episodes how to choose used tanks and what should I pay attention to.
That's a good suggestion. We'll do it for sure. Buying a used scuba tank can be rewarding, or very disappointing.
Alec
I stopped using that style of tank boot, as it retains water, I switch to a larger more open tank boot like you found on the old Genesis HP tanks. Also with the galvanized tanks I found I have to paint over the hydro stamp with a cold galvanizing spary or else it rusts.
Yep. You're referring to the Self-Draining boot that won't hold water.
And you're quite right about the aluminum or galvanized spray on the test stamp. Some stations do it, some don't.
Alec
Thank you for another great video! I've been scuba diving since 1973 and have 2 aluminum 72 cf tanks, branded US Divers, that have initial test date of 1972. I've owned them since 1974 and they have given me many years of service. They were last hydro'd in 2015 and have EV after that stamp. I'm getting back into scuba diving after free diving the north coast of California for the last 25 years. In your opinion, should I spend the $55 + $30 each for the hydro and Eddy current test required to re-certify these 2 tanks or just retire them and buy another aluminum 80 under current hydro for $120? I already bought 1 80cf. These 72s are about 4 lbs bouyant when empty but it was never a problem for me in the many, many dives I've used them for.
Your videos have been a wealth of information and I really enjoy your presentation; like getting advice from an old friend! I've upgraded my computer and other equipment after watching your videos. I don't want members of the club I just joined to be afraid to dive with me after they see my old equipment.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Dan
Hi Dan. The two 1972 72's only need hydro and a VIS to be dive ready. Eddy current is not mandatory but used should any hint of a crack pop up. These tanks are almost new compared to the late 1950's tanks my vintage friends regularly use. As to keep these or buy new, only you know which tanks make your diving feel comfortable. Since you a "new" diver like me, comfort and trim are very important to us kids, both in and out of the water. If keeping the 72's, when ready to dive, borrow a 80 aluminum and test dive both tanks to see which feel right. Hope this help and keep on diving my young friend.
A.
I need to work out. I found a boat Chanelle. I plan to swim underwater up and down and across the channel with my old 72s.
Watch my video S12E09 Air Hog Special for a laugh.
A
Your video is always helpful. Thanks! 😁😁😁
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Hi Alec you mentioned tumbling off the paint on the inside for inspection, but doesn't that expose raw steel that can rust? so you are back to the original rusting issues of the past? Owen m
Steel tanks are all plain steel on the inside. If they are kept dry it's not a problem.
It can be an issue but care on the diver's part and the annual visual pretty much take care of it.
Alec
Thank you for this great video on the great steel 72 tanks! You are very a great teacher, inspiring and extremely informative! I have a coupe of sets of very nice hot dipped galvanized non painted Norris 72s. They are 3AA 2250 series, Oring straight thread with the modern oring K valves. I understand the 3AA signifies chromemoly steel, 2250 PSI with a + stamp on the original hydro so 2475 PSI w/plus. They have only been in fresh water and are in superb condition. Born in the early 70s. I had them hydro'd and they did not put a plus sign on them, they said they do not know how to do this. Does anyone have any advice on helping the hydro shop get a plus hydro stamp on these. Does anyone know where I can find the REE data on early 1970s Norris steel 72 tanks, or who can hydro + these tanks in California Oregon, Idaho or Nevada with Plus hydro? The extra air is nice. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks Alec, your scuba videos are by far the best! Thank Kevin as well, I know you are in the background somewhere working away!
My understanding here in Canada is that a Hydro Test Inspector must have an additional accreditation to do a + hydro. Even then they don't do it often.
In the US these tests are monitored by the DOT. Perhaps someone there can help.
Alec
all i have is steel lp tanks from 45s to 108s but i love mt 72s for sidemount
They would be handy for sidemount - a bit shorter and much lighter.
Alec
A few yrs ago I brought my steel 72s to the Florida Keys. Brought them in to a dive shop there for a fill and the manager called his entire staff over to show them what a steel 72 with a J valve was. Guess they never saw one. Of course the tanks were older than most of the staff
Not surprising to me.
Florida was one of the areas most influential in setting up the visual test program for scuba. I'm sure they are very conscientious there to avoid accidents. There have more than a few in Florida although not recently I think.
I'm sure that steel 72s are quite rare in Florida.
Alec
I have a ton of 71.2's, about 10 line my driveway lol, but the rest that still pass viz I use for general foo foo diving.
Foo Foo diving? That sounds fun. Watch my video on New Uses for Old Scuba Tanks, S12E16. Some amazing ideas plus read the comments for even more creative uses.
I've been wanting a pair of 72's. I just saw a pair at a pawn shop for $40 that haven't been used since the 70's, but I'm not sure what costs would be involved to bring them up to date. Obviously hydro tested, possibly tumbled, but what else? Do the threads need to be re-cut?
You will need a hydro and a visual. It's not likely they need tumbling since the coated tanks are quite rare now. Even tumbling is cheap.
Your total investment to get them ready to use will be about $50.
Alec
Going in for my advanced course. Going on my first night dive. Any advice to overcome the fear of jumping in the dark for the first time? Thanks
Don't jump in!!!!
Truly, a first night dive is best if conducted from shore so the divers can walk in slowly, duck under for a look and once they're calm, go ahead.
It's always a bit stressful jumping into deep water at night, at least until you are very experienced and know the area well.
Ask the instructor if you can ease into the water somehow so you can have a look around before swimming off or down.
I'm sure you will find it very exciting.
Good luck.
ALEC
Makes me glad that I'm a commercial diver and used to not seeing anything more often than not... Day OR night lol
Alec, I'm going off topic, What is the wood from your mantle from?
PS I did have a steel 72 with a J valve, don't know what happened to it, probably stolen;
That mantle was a 14" x 14" pine barn beam from an old barn, since fallen down, around the corner from our home. It was originally over 20' long. I sliced it in half so it was 7" tall x 14" deep and then lagged it tight to the wall.
It's bolted to wall studs through a full length metal plate. If the house falls down, that mantle will still be there!
That barn was made using holes and pegs. You can see some of the holes, both round and oval and I have a couple of the pegs too.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Nice.
I just did my first open water pool dive today. It didn't go so well. I would stay completely still and for some reason the scuba tank would push my head forward and down. Arch your back. I tried that and it didn't work. That doesn't address the root cause of the problem anyway.
Not only that, I would noticeably start drifting when other people were perfectly still. What is causing the tank to push me face down into the water?
It's not an uncommon problem.
If you are a small person, ask the school if they have smaller tank to use. The standard tank may simply be too long and too heavy.
I should mention that the pool is an unnatural place to sort out such problems. Once you are in open water, you will find things work much better.
Try shifting your weights towards the back of your belt so they are all behind the center-line of your body. That will help to counterbalance the weight of the tank.
If your instructor will allow it (no reason not to but he might not like the idea) try putting a small weight (2-3 pound) on the tank band at the center back. That too will help hold the tank vertical.
And you may just need a bit more weight. Try maybe 2 or 3 pounds more to help you be more stable. There is no 'rule of thumb' or any formula for how much weight you need. It's a very individual thing.
Good luck.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thank you.
Do you remove stickers from the exterior of the tank when inspecting?
In my shop removing a previous vis sticker is optional, But i personally always choose to for aesthetic and for less confusion down the line.
That was never a big deal years ago but it is commonly done now.
There is no regulation about it but the inspector must be certain there is no corrosion on the exterior and the only way to be sure is to look under the stickers so, off they come.
Alec
I still get plus hydros on any bottle that I can, here in the US at least.
Many hydro test stations won't do a + hydro. It does require a change in the procedure. Maybe they think there's increased liability.
Alec
Perfect tanks for deco O2 bottles. Negative buoyancy and when filled from a "cascade" O2 tank hold more volume per psi than an 80.
Just because they are old, does not make them trash. So I tell my wife. Thank for sharing William.
A.
Have it tumbled that will remove anything inside it. Any fire extinguisher company or welding gas supplier can help you out.
It may be true but I have not found any companies like those who would clean scuba tanks (due to liability I think).
A
I have 3 of them.
Hang onto them John - and keep air in them too.
Take care.
Alec
If you can find good rust free ones, that pass hydro, make the best deco and O2 bottles. Negative buoyancy.
Good information, thanks for sharing.
A