Thanks, what an excellent answer. I am going to build my own windmill. I've seen both designs and comments about how the round ones are wrong but never why.I guess some folks are more lax about details, but I want maximum efficiency and longevity when I put my heart into anything I build. I love aceman's presentation and voice.I know that sounds weird but I like it when people speak well.
Hello again! We finished testing 2 of the 3 generators using different number of turns per coil (100 turns and 150 turns). We will be testing the 3rd (200 turns) tonight! The first set up only produced 1.15V and the second one 4.5V. They are single phase units. We will probably retest the first one because I think we spaced out the magnets too far. This has been a good experience and a good science project!
Thanks, you are amazing, am an engineer and I wish I had the time to dive into some of these projects, I'll keep you mind for when I move to Puerto Rico where am building an Aquaponics farm, thanks again keep it up.
I was impressed with how strong that first dummy stator was. I thought for sure he would have broke it. I should be getting the magnets in at the end of the month so I can put the rotors together. Thanks for the support.
One tricky point to make here, the core you used could have been an elongated triangle which would have fit your stater space better making more powerful coils in the process.
Thanks! Using the electrical tape did the trick. Because we are doing the project at a smaller scale, we are using 24AWG magnet wire. At 100 turns the coil wasn't that big. His whole project is to show how the number of turns affects the output. But i'm not sure if using such small wire was a good idea. It's harder to make a smooth coil. Also the epoxy we used was too messy. I want to try a different one. Thanks for the help.
Man.. im not even building a stator but this vid just came up when i searched and i watched it! very good video! good instruction! and very interesting :)
You can use anything that holds the coils together and is not affected by the weather. I use a polyester resin that the local hardware store has here. You want somthing strong and will not crack.
Right On!!! I'm taking a class in circuit analysis, and U helped me a great deal to see and comprehend what I need ,n have to do on my favorite project,Thank, More Power 2 U, H ;)
@FrankaDith I would start with 20awg at 120 turns a coil. Use 9 coils with 12 magnets. The A/c that comes out of the stator go to a bridge rectifier that converts the a/c into d/c . So you will have three wires going to the 3 bridge rectifier a/c input spots and D/C volts coming out of the - and + on the bridge rectifier. It depends on how fast the generator turns as to how much volts are created.
ok the stator produces A/c current the magnets are facing north and south each time they pass a coil it pulls or pushes electrons making + and -. If you used just three coils that would be one phase and would work but In this stator we have 3 sets of 3 coils, each set is offset by 120degs all this does is smoothes the electical flow coming out of the stator. So each wire is A/C power.To convert it to D/C power you have to use a bridge rectifier. Look at my video (completion of the PMA)
@BroadwyBound1 The lag bolt was not threaded all the way the part going through the support is smooth on the left side of the main support you thread the backer plate on close to the support and then use a screw down through the middle of the backer plate to keep it from thightening up when you turn the handle. The backer plate is the first piece of wood next to the main support. I hope this helps
I have a suggestion for the next mold, if you fill the mould with chopped glass before you dump in the resin it will be much stronger. You really want to use the minimum amount of resin for the quantity of glass or composite.i do Like your ideas good luck
@Amisttt I down loaded a schematic on how to wire the 3 phases on the stator, to keep track of the coils and to help wire them together I color coded them to match the schematic. Each color represents a phase 3 colors three phases.
As I was scrolling down reading comments on this video,I found a very stupendous suggestion posted by +GroovyVideo2. I feel attracted to respond to his post by a NEW COMMENT Here is what +Groovy said "wonder if Plaster of Paris would work instead of resin - maybe mixed with fiber glass Flox - plaster dose shrink 5% when drying - plaster may work well as heat sink also -" I assure you it will work since I had also tried it. I tried running this setup with naked coils, just held together with masking tape ,and it gave me very good results,just like the ones I got after APPLYING THE PLASTER. So ,Scientifically ,there is no violation of the principles of electromagnetism. The only things you have to take into consideration is 1)Minimize the distance that the plaster of Paris combination will take so that the magnetic field between the magnets(across the stator) wont be reduced 2) Keeping your combination away from water/solvents such that the plaster wont be affected. This too applies to humid conditions which in the long run could degrade the plaster. My final recommendation to this would be ,If at all one uses the Plaster Of Paris (POP) instead of the resin, this setup will be fit for indoor uses and not for outdoor wind generation.
@Zontertes It protects the stator from corrosion and elements. May I add, that if you drill 1/4" holes through center of coils space, and additional holes through encasement, it will assist with cooling should overspeed ever cause unwanted heat, thereby increasing life of stator cast due to constant expansion and contraction. Do keep in mind the ideal stator would be covered from rain - ice, but still allowing for some movement of air. Regards.
I tell you from what I have found its a big difference between theory and real world. Maybe your right and adding metal would increase output but if the turbine does not start spinning it makes no electricity verses spinning and making some electricity. Any little amount of drag really affects the turbines ability to start up. I agree about round coils maybe you have not seen my later video on how I built a serpentine coil. More efficient and easier to build. Thanks for the comment.
There will be a significant amount of power in addition rather than drag in the case you where to add iron/steel cores to the magnets. The tighter the winding around a steel core the greater the magnetic field. Also keeping the resin overflow on top of the coil wire is better as it reduces magnetic field interference. The closer togetheter the surfaces are the greater the force you create. Try using a thin coil paper rather than resin in between the layers. Your attempts to counteract the inevitable breakdown/corrosion is counteracting performance I believe. Hope this makes sense.
@BroadwyBound1 There are two wiring configurations that most people use the star config or the delta config. The star is suppose to be better for slower turning VAWTs while the delta is suppose to be better for the faster spinning HAWT
Excellent work. If I may add that the induced voltage in the coil is higher when the magnetic field is perpendicular to the conductor. Thus elongated (rectangular) shaped coils with rectangular magnets may possibly induce a higher voltage & thus higher current. The arc of the round coil at the inner and outer edges is almost parallel to the magnetic flux of a round magnet and thus induces little if any current.
+Graham Harris Graham Please, I need your assessment of my Round coils which I made recently. How can I send there Pictures to you? I also want to know the best type of Magnet to use with disc Coils Should it be Rectangular Neodymium Magnets? Please I am extremely curious now
+janet edwards Hello Janet, I have a degree in electrical & electronic engineering but dumped that dreary subject a few yrs ago to focus on photography. But Ill help if I can ... grahamhgraham@btinternet.com
@brown55061 Thank you. I am still putting all these parts together so I can start getting some info on output. I live in Costa Rica and getting parts is difficult. If I order things online I have to wait to travel to the states to pick them up. I should have it together pretty soon.
Hi Mate, as mentioned in my last comment, Circular coils have the most inefficient design. Change this and you will see an increase in current. Also Make sure that a passing magnet on one half of the coil is not cancelled out by an opposing magnet on the other side. Also the centre gap of coil to be the same width as the magnet.
I was winding them in 2003-2004 for my boss when I was working at Millers Forrest (NSW, Australia) ,they were an exciter stator (Allight) for a generator.I am thinking of building my own wind generator maybe to generate 240 volts per phase (415 volt 3 phase) .The only 2 things that I have to consider is wind speed (Hertz) and coil winding turns & gauge to get the right impedence say for a 4800 watt generator coil, R (resistance) = Z (impedence) @ unity power factor (1) anyway which is the raw power straight out of the generator before any Capacitive (Xc),inductive (Xl) or resistive load is applied to the installation (e.g. fluoro lights (ballast) have a power factor correction of 0.9 when a capacitor is connected in parallel with the lamp supply so Xl-Xc=Z @ that power factor value and is what the supply authority sees as neccessary).I can get rare earth magnets on Ebay so I need to work out the magnetic flux density,etc of the magnet ,coil resistance,turns & gauge of winding need to be calculated.A rectifier & SCR trigger circuit (possibly 3 phase) could be designed & built so a 50 hertz (in Australia) frequency can be maintained. I don't know why the hell the Australian government seem content to keep me out of work and out of the trade I was trained to do,ever since I left my apprenticeship in 2002 after my boss (Brown) didn't approve of the way I turned out after my manager (McDonagh) was fired and my boss is still in business working in the trade when I appear to have been booted out of every company in the Hunter region in New South Wales (Lastina) and haven't worked for the last 3 1/2 years and the last company (Westrac) decided I wasn't what "they" needed after working in an auto electrical role yet the government keeps on labelling me as "good for nothing " !!!!
@BroadwyBound1 Yes, you are calling the leads plus and neg just to label the wires right? Because the generator will be producing A/C current, each wire will be neg and pos as the magnets pass the coils. It is very important to hookup the coils with the right leads. The start of one coil to the finish of another. If you mix this up it will not work. Some people cast their stators with all the wires comming out so they can change the wiring if need be.
@HeavyDemir This wiring configuration is a star configuration its suppose to be better for VAWTs. If you go to the website I say on the video you can download there schematic. It makes it easier when you can look at the diagram. It sounds like you said it right as far as the way the coils are wired together.
In this video I used 18ga enameled copper wire. I bought 2 kilos. the turns where 70 but I think you should use more like 100. the serpintine coils are easier to make. I have a video on them.
@BroadwyBound1 Near the beginning of the video I show a picture of the piece its a piece of wood the same size as the magnets before cuting the three sides drill and thread it on the lag bolt. then take it off and cut it into three pieces. Then hold the piece back on the lag bolt and put a piece of electricle tape around it. After you wind the coil and take it off the piece will now shrink enough to slide out.
I need someone to make a wind turbine for me as I'm not capable to manage the construction, , can I get some estimates from some of you that can show me your builds and results. . What I really need is the wire turnings to attach to a pvc pipe to give me at least 120 voltage ac to run a battery charger.
@Frybeugens The more I look into building the coils it looks like making the coils into circles is old news. There are a couple of people out there using different winding configurations that get more wire into a smaller area. Check out LynxSteam videos and USVAWT videos.
:) Thanks for sharing. I was curious about what you said about the size of your coils vs the size of your magnets, is that an important factor? The reason I ask is because your video is the only diy stator video I've seen that mentions the coils needing to be sized/shaped according to the magnet size/shape.
@fuelban I have read when casting a large amount of resin the talcome powder helps keep the resin from developing cracks. It seems to work I had no cracks in my stators.
@HeavyDemir When you cast a large amount of resin like the stators its suppose to help it not crack when it cures. I guess it works I have cast 3 stators so far with no cracks.
@FrankaDith Everytime a magnet passes over a coil it creates electric current in the coil, as soon as the magnet passes the coil the current stops. So in a single phase it would be like - - - - - - - - - - - if you have multiply phases you do away with the start stop to some degree. So the electric current that is coming out of the generator is more like____________ I hope this helps It is more complicated than that but thats the basic idea. the three wires from the generator go into rectifier
Really good video! One question? Why would you put the three electrical connections on the inside? I put mine on the outside edge of the stator. Easy to get at to plug in. But I guess I haven’t seen your finished product yet. So, maybe it makes sense.
Ok the general Idea is smaller wire more turns higher volts less amps, I would start with 18awg or 20 awg wire at 100-130 turns each, That will get you in the right area. Wind speed, type of magnets, number of magnets, number of coils, size of coils in relation to magnets, magnets on top and bottom of stator or only one side. All these things affect the output of a wind turbine PMA, study Emagnets videos he has done alot of testing with different configurations. Good luck
Just wonderful, I've been looking for "make your own electricity solar panel" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Diyadison Penhloe Blaster - (search on google ) ? It is a smashing one off product for generating your own electricity minus the headache. Ive heard some super things about it and my neighbour got amazing success with it.
12 volts and how many amps? to get actual wattage? excellent video by the way. and you speak in a relaxing voice, which is nice after a week of hard work
He he :) thanks for ur works and an advice from we, if you burn to end of coil for destroy wire isolation(enamel) by a small fire(for ex: lighter) it will be more easy but you must insert suddenly into a cold water(will be too more easy if it mixed some spirit) after heated to wire for sperate burned isolation enamel seperating from wire instead of destroy with a knife too shape too. Thanks... I was measuring to caliper of wire in 0.01 mm sensivity by this technic in Abana Motorsan 3 phase AC Engine Motors...
@Aceman307 Yeah i spent some time on that website, they explain a loads of good stuff but still as your saying... they are no perfect configuration, it is all about trial and error... I am currently working on my stator and will start to make a video during the last building process giving all used sizes ect... Hope this will help some other people. I never done so much research for my other projects ;o) Will keep you posted when video will be done. Thank s for all your updates
You know what would be good,,,,if you punched out the center of the coils to really let the magnetic field flow through unobstructed,,,may add 25% or more!!!!
@Caleb6543 I forgot to show that I covered them with the snow seal. When I pulled it apart and ran the nut down on the studs the resin just came of f no problem.
It also surprises me, why you don't use the same technique as those big giant windmills. 1 rotation of those blades, gives 70 rotations on the turbine, but you still use a direct approach. If you choose to lower the weight significantly, you could easily go for a 1 rotation of the blades to 20 to 30 rotations on the generator. but not with those tiny little blades. It actually surprises me, you'd settle for those tiny little blades anyway. You obviously know what you are doing, so why not think bigger and more efficient, like a vertical windmill? (you have to tilt it a couple percent to get it's full potential, i've tested it)
Cogging is a result inefficient design. the number of magnets must be 1.333 times the number of coils. For example if number of coil is 3 then magnets must be 4. This way if 1 magnet is in max cogging then the next magnet is near to enter the next coil while the last magnet is leaving the coil. During the rotation the applied torque is very regular.
Right now my turbine does not spin fast enough to get to 12-13 volts so until I can design the turbine to spin faster I can get any usable data. From what I can tell this stator and rotor set up would be better for an horizontal wind turbine.
First off your videos are awesome, very informative. I'm in the research stage for building my first generator. I was curious as to why you didn't put cores in your coils? From what I've read they help the magnetic field pass through the coil more efficiently. I could be wrong, but I'm new to this and I know I'll be wrong from time to time. Lol
@BroadwyBound1 Great! Are you building the Remkick VAWT ? The Remkick VAWT I think is better. My videos that are numbered 1-6 will show you step by step the total construction. I used a tablespoon of talc to each cup of resin. Its suppose to help keep the resin from cracking I guess it works because none of my stators have cracked. The serpinetine coil is actually easier to make and hookup than the traditional coils. emagnets has alot of info on the outputs on the serpintines coils.
@velocity800 You probably wont be able to run anything but a small light directly off the wind turbine, and then it would only depend on how fast the wind is blowing as to how much power you get out. The idea is to use your wind generator to charge up batteries and then use an inverter to run your devices. Depending on how many batteries you have and the size of inverter you have you could run anything you wanted. Combining both wind and solar is ideal.
I just wanted to say you make EXCELLENT teaching materials. I always felt like this stuff was difficult to grasp but you laid it out very understandable. Nice work! The big question, did the stator work well for you with your configuration?
Ok, Please clarify. Coil & Magnet Ratio. 1 Center (open space) I.D. of coil should be the diameter of the magnet 2 Height of ea coil should be 1/2 of magnet diameter 3 Coil diameter or O.D. should be 33.4% larger than magnet 4 Stator diameter should be 90% of Rotor diameter. Now, please explain what is ideal wire diameter for low 5-7mph wind start up speeds. Thanks.
I have a small question... ur mags are 3.5cm by 9mm right? and ur coils 5cm by 1.3 ... i ve read a lot about coil windings and most of the people say that ur coil dia must be twice the dia of your mag ... i might understand that u reduced it to avoid airgaps betwin the mags but adding more wire on ur coils does make the generator more efficient??? so why did you choose this configuration?
Yes this is true but theoretically I think it would if any external force overcame the cogging. Also Circular coils are not the most efficient coil design this is because an almost triangle coil design creates a larger surface area for induced current.
@FrankaDith I have seen people use single phase all the way up to 5 phases check out emagnets videos he does alot of testing on different combinations of phases. Three phase is the same number of phases your house uses. By setting up your coils at 120 deg apart you get a smoother power output.
@Aceman307 I have motor cycle rectifiers ,wounder if that would be strong enough or just run it to a ac heater direct is more my plan , anything to help on the heating costs and in winter the wind doesn't stop much ,but i do appreciate your willingness to help .
Aceman, please clarify. It is my understanding that crowding the magnets like you show on the sawblade causes the flux field of magnets to bleed over one another. In other words, if there is some spacing of magnets, you capture the full flux field of each magnet when the coil passes over it. So the question is, should there be spacing between the magnets of at least the coils leg, not both coil legs, but at least enough spacing between magnets of at least one of the coils legs? Thanks.
My son and I have just cut out the wood framing and the wood rotor. We will be putting a circular saw blade on the wood like you did. We have learned so much from your videos! No videos yet, but we will start. I still need to make the coil winder so we can get those wound this weekend. I found fiberglass resin mix with hardener at Autozone like you suggested. Thanks. You added talc also. How did you determine how much to add? BTW, my son is in 5th grade and this is his Science Project.
I see this video is 11 years old, so not expecting him to answer. I think that's why he emphasized the "rules of thumb" regarding the dimensions of the windings. He's using permanent magnets for the field charge, so the turns ratio would be much more important for voltage output control. Assuming proper diligence when wrapping the windings, physical dimensions are an acceptable alternative to counting each individual turn. I've built a prototype generator which uses an electromagnet field. My findings are that the turns ratio is less important due to the ability to use a voltage regulator. But there are some balances to consider, depending on your source of mechanical input. The greater the ratio, the more torque input required but with lower field voltage. The lower the ratio, then the less mechanical torque required but needing a higher field voltage. That is also a self-excited configuration. I'm going to build a second prototype which is not self-excited. Using a secondary permanent magnet generator on the same rotor shaft for the field charge, with the output regulated by the same voltage regulator configuration as the self-excited version. I'm a bit skeptical due to the inherent limitations, but I am curious to see how the efficiency changes as metered from the stator output. The end goal is to build a practical generator. Thinking I'll probably also post a video series to document the build.
@Aceman307 Right and those are for 3phases. In your wiring diagram I was looking how the two coils for one of the phases were connected in series. In the wiring diagram on the site i mentioned, it shows a single phase diagram, but the wiring is positive to positive and negative to negative which confused me. Did you get a chance to see that diagram. I wanted to see if you agree. Thanks.
You mean something ferritic to drive up the flux through the coils? I'd think you'd want to be careful with your choice, since anything conductive will end up shielding at high frequencies.
umm so red, blue and yellow is connected in the middle from the inside of the spools, from that each series of spools are connected from outside to inside windings?
Each color wire's have a starting pole which its exiting wire goes to the start of the 2nd coil and it's exiting wire goes to the beginning of the 3rd coil But where does each 3rd coils exiting wire go , If you know what I mean. Do all starting poles go together ,and do all ending poles go together ,I'm trying to understand this I'm new at this .
Another problem!! Help! What did you use as the core of the coil. I used wood and it would not come out after completing the winding. Once it came out the wires came with it. If you could tell me what you used and where you got it that would be appreciated. Thanks!
@BroadwyBound1 You can hold them anyway you like as long as they dont move. The reason they are usally cast is so they are even and wont move so you can get the magnets as close as possible to the coils with out rubbing. Are you making a video of your setup? I would like to see it. Good luck with your project.
Just wondering, why didn't you add up a screw for the neutral terminal for the star connected configuration, so that you'll be able to test it out un future?!
wonder if Plaster of Paris would work instead of resin - maybe mixed with fiber glass Flox - plaster dose shrink 5% when drying - plaster may work well as heat sink also -
Nice Suggestion +Groovy I assure you it will work since I had also tried it. I tried running this setup with naked coils, just held together with masking tape ,and it gave me very good results,just like the ones I got after APPLYING THE PLASTER. So ,Scientifically ,there is no violation of the principles of electromagnetism. The only things you have to take into consideration is 1)Minimize the distance that the plaster of Paris combination will take so that the magnetic field between the magnets(across the stator) wont be reduced 2) Keeping your combination away from water/solvents such that the plaster wont be affected. This too applies to humid conditions which in the long run could degrade the plaster. My final recommendation to this would be ,If at all one uses the Plaster Of Paris (POP) instead of the resin, this setup will be fit for indoor uses and not for outdoor wind generation.
Hey man I really like what your trying to do here I'm working on free energy you should try neodymium n52 grade magnets same design you should be happy with those results
Are you going to have magnets on both sides of the stator? From what I have learned is it helps if the magnets are mounted to a steel plate of some kind. I guess you could bolt a steel plate to the aluminum rim. I think you could go with a 16 or 14 gauge wire for the stator coils. Also check out serpentine coils they are easier to make and make more power. Check out Emagnets channel and Lynxsteams channel they have alot of different designs they have tested out. Good luck
Nice! Thank you for showing. I couldn't find the wiring diagram anywhere. Looks like that website has been taken down. Have you got any secondary source where I could download this diagram? Cheers!
Hi. Actually the shaft will be mounted horizontal like a regular generator. We tried to start doing the coils but we are having problems with the coil winder. When we turn the winder the lag bolt tightens and we cant turn the handle anymore. Can you clarify what you did to make the coil winder as far as how the handle is attached to the lag bolt and if the holes are bigger in some parts or they are all threaded. I hope to hear from you fast. We are trying to get the coils wound by tomorrow
Thanks, what an excellent answer. I am going to build my own windmill. I've seen both designs and comments about how the round ones are wrong but never why.I guess some folks are more lax about details, but I want maximum efficiency and longevity when I put my heart into anything I build. I love aceman's presentation and voice.I know that sounds weird but I like it when people speak well.
NGL that 2010 background buzz nostalgia
Hello again! We finished testing 2 of the 3 generators using different number of turns per coil (100 turns and 150 turns). We will be testing the 3rd (200 turns) tonight! The first set up only produced 1.15V and the second one 4.5V. They are single phase units. We will probably retest the first one because I think we spaced out the magnets too far. This has been a good experience and a good science project!
Great to see that Avasva has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
Thanks, you are amazing, am an engineer and I wish I had the time to dive into some of these projects, I'll keep you mind for when I move to Puerto Rico where am building an Aquaponics farm, thanks again keep it up.
ISMAEL MARRERO Please post some videos when you start your Aquaponics garden. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
+ISMAEL MARRERO You sound like someone I know. Are you Jonathan Rivera?
Thank you very much for this video. You are very clear on exactly what you are doing, very descriptive!
I was impressed with how strong that first dummy stator was. I thought for sure he would have broke it. I should be getting the magnets in at the end of the month so I can put the rotors together. Thanks for the support.
One tricky point to make here, the core you used could have been an elongated triangle which would have fit your stater space better making more powerful coils in the process.
Thanks! Using the electrical tape did the trick. Because we are doing the project at a smaller scale, we are using 24AWG magnet wire. At 100 turns the coil wasn't that big. His whole project is to show how the number of turns affects the output. But i'm not sure if using such small wire was a good idea. It's harder to make a smooth coil. Also the epoxy we used was too messy. I want to try a different one. Thanks for the help.
Man.. im not even building a stator but this vid just came up when i searched and i watched it! very good video! good instruction! and very interesting :)
You can use anything that holds the coils together and is not affected by the weather. I use a polyester resin that the local hardware store has here. You want somthing strong and will not crack.
Right On!!! I'm taking a class in circuit analysis, and U helped me a great deal to see and comprehend what I need ,n have to do on my favorite project,Thank, More Power 2 U, H ;)
@FrankaDith I would start with 20awg at 120 turns a coil. Use 9 coils with 12 magnets. The A/c that comes out of the stator go to a bridge rectifier that converts the a/c into d/c . So you will have three wires going to the 3 bridge rectifier a/c input spots and D/C volts coming out of the - and + on the bridge rectifier. It depends on how fast the generator turns as to how much volts are created.
How much rpm give this alternator for the producing more power 220v?
And how much it can Ampaire or watts produce?
ok the stator produces A/c current the magnets are facing north and south each time they pass a coil it pulls or pushes electrons making + and -. If you used just three coils that would be one phase and would work but In this stator we have 3 sets of 3 coils, each set is offset by 120degs all this does is smoothes the electical flow coming out of the stator. So each wire is A/C power.To convert it to D/C power you have to use a bridge rectifier. Look at my video (completion of the PMA)
@BroadwyBound1 The lag bolt was not threaded all the way the part going through the support is smooth on the left side of the main support you thread the backer plate on close to the support and then use a screw down through the middle of the backer plate to keep it from thightening up when you turn the handle. The backer plate is the first piece of wood next to the main support. I hope this helps
Now THIS is what people need to know how to make the stator
I have a suggestion for the next mold, if you fill the mould with chopped glass before you dump in the resin it will be much stronger. You really want to use the minimum amount of resin for the quantity of glass or composite.i do Like your ideas good luck
@Amisttt I down loaded a schematic on how to wire the 3 phases on the stator, to keep track of the coils and to help wire them together I color coded them to match the schematic. Each color represents a phase 3 colors three phases.
As I was scrolling down reading comments on this video,I found a very
stupendous suggestion posted by +GroovyVideo2. I feel attracted to
respond to his post by a NEW COMMENT
Here is what +Groovy said
"wonder if Plaster of Paris would work instead of resin - maybe mixed with
fiber glass Flox -
plaster dose shrink 5% when drying - plaster may work well as heat sink also -"
I assure you it will work since I had also tried it.
I tried running this setup with naked coils, just held together with masking tape ,and it gave me very good results,just like the ones I got after APPLYING THE PLASTER. So ,Scientifically ,there is no violation of the principles of electromagnetism.
The only things you have to take into consideration is
1)Minimize the distance that the plaster of Paris combination will take so that the magnetic field between the magnets(across the stator) wont be reduced
2) Keeping your combination away from water/solvents such that the plaster wont be affected. This too applies to humid conditions which in the long run could degrade the plaster.
My final recommendation to this would be ,If at all one uses the Plaster Of Paris (POP) instead of the resin, this setup will be fit for indoor uses and not for outdoor wind generation.
Benedict Buberwa hahahahaha 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@Zontertes It protects the stator from corrosion and elements. May I add, that if you drill 1/4" holes through center of coils space, and additional holes through encasement, it will assist with cooling should overspeed ever cause unwanted heat, thereby increasing life of stator cast due to constant expansion and contraction. Do keep in mind the ideal stator would be covered from rain - ice, but still allowing for some movement of air. Regards.
Thank you for showing how you did the Stator.
I tell you from what I have found its a big difference between theory and real world. Maybe your right and adding metal would increase output but if the turbine does not start spinning it makes no electricity verses spinning and making some electricity. Any little amount of drag really affects the turbines ability to start up. I agree about round coils maybe you have not seen my later video on how I built a serpentine coil. More efficient and easier to build. Thanks for the comment.
There will be a significant amount of power in addition rather than drag in the case you where to add iron/steel cores to the magnets. The tighter the winding around a steel core the greater the magnetic field.
Also keeping the resin overflow on top of the coil wire is better as it reduces magnetic field interference.
The closer togetheter the surfaces are the greater the force you create. Try using a thin coil paper rather than resin in between the layers. Your attempts to counteract the inevitable breakdown/corrosion is counteracting performance I believe.
Hope this makes sense.
@BroadwyBound1 There are two wiring configurations that most people use the star config or the delta config. The star is suppose to be better for slower turning VAWTs while the delta is suppose to be better for the faster spinning HAWT
Excellent work. If I may add that the induced voltage in the coil is higher when the magnetic field is perpendicular to the conductor. Thus elongated (rectangular) shaped coils with rectangular magnets may possibly induce a higher voltage & thus higher current. The arc of the round coil at the inner and outer edges is almost parallel to the magnetic flux of a round magnet and thus induces little if any current.
+Graham Harris Graham Please, I need your assessment of my Round coils which I made recently. How can I send there Pictures to you? I also want to know the best type of Magnet to use with disc Coils Should it be Rectangular Neodymium Magnets? Please I am extremely curious now
+janet edwards Hello Janet, I have a degree in electrical & electronic engineering but dumped that dreary subject a few yrs ago to focus on photography. But Ill help if I can ... grahamhgraham@btinternet.com
@brown55061 Thank you. I am still putting all these parts together so I can start getting some info on output. I live in Costa Rica and getting parts is difficult. If I order things online I have to wait to travel to the states to pick them up. I should have it together pretty soon.
Hi Mate, as mentioned in my last comment, Circular coils have the most inefficient design. Change this and you will see an increase in current. Also Make sure that a passing magnet on one half of the coil is not cancelled out by an opposing magnet on the other side. Also the centre gap of coil to be the same width as the magnet.
I was winding them in 2003-2004 for my boss when I was working at Millers Forrest (NSW, Australia) ,they were an exciter stator (Allight) for a generator.I am thinking of building my own wind generator maybe to generate 240 volts per phase (415 volt 3 phase) .The only 2 things that I have to consider is wind speed (Hertz) and coil winding turns & gauge to get the right impedence say for a 4800 watt generator coil, R (resistance) = Z (impedence) @ unity power factor (1) anyway which is the raw power straight out of the generator before any Capacitive (Xc),inductive (Xl) or resistive load is applied to the installation (e.g. fluoro lights (ballast) have a power factor correction of 0.9 when a capacitor is connected in parallel with the lamp supply so Xl-Xc=Z @ that power factor value and is what the supply authority sees as neccessary).I can get rare earth magnets on Ebay so I need to work out the magnetic flux density,etc of the magnet ,coil resistance,turns & gauge of winding need to be calculated.A rectifier & SCR trigger circuit (possibly 3 phase) could be designed & built so a 50 hertz (in Australia) frequency can be maintained. I don't know why the hell the Australian government seem content to keep me out of work and out of the trade I was trained to do,ever since I left my apprenticeship in 2002 after my boss (Brown) didn't approve of the way I turned out after my manager (McDonagh) was fired and my boss is still in business working in the trade when I appear to have been booted out of every company in the Hunter region in New South Wales (Lastina) and haven't worked for the last 3 1/2 years and the last company (Westrac) decided I wasn't what "they" needed after working in an auto electrical role yet the government keeps on labelling me as "good for nothing " !!!!
@BroadwyBound1 Yes, you are calling the leads plus and neg just to label the wires right? Because the generator will be producing A/C current, each wire will be neg and pos as the magnets pass the coils. It is very important to hookup the coils with the right leads. The start of one coil to the finish of another. If you mix this up it will not work. Some people cast their stators with all the wires comming out so they can change the wiring if need be.
@HeavyDemir This wiring configuration is a star configuration its suppose to be better for VAWTs. If you go to the website I say on the video you can download there schematic. It makes it easier when you can look at the diagram. It sounds like you said it right as far as the way the coils are wired together.
In this video I used 18ga enameled copper wire. I bought 2 kilos. the turns where 70 but I think you should use more like 100. the serpintine coils are easier to make. I have a video on them.
@BroadwyBound1 Near the beginning of the video I show a picture of the piece its a piece of wood the same size as the magnets before cuting the three sides drill and thread it on the lag bolt. then take it off and cut it into three pieces. Then hold the piece back on the lag bolt and put a piece of electricle tape around it. After you wind the coil and take it off the piece will now shrink enough to slide out.
I need someone to make a wind turbine for me as I'm not capable to manage the construction, , can I get some estimates from some of you that can show me your builds and results. . What I really need is the wire turnings to attach to a pvc pipe to give me at least 120 voltage ac to run a battery charger.
@Frybeugens The more I look into building the coils it looks like making the coils into circles is old news. There are a couple of people out there using different winding configurations that get more wire into a smaller area. Check out LynxSteam videos and USVAWT videos.
:) Thanks for sharing. I was curious about what you said about the size of your coils vs the size of your magnets, is that an important factor? The reason I ask is because your video is the only diy stator video I've seen that mentions the coils needing to be sized/shaped according to the magnet size/shape.
@fuelban I have read when casting a large amount of resin the talcome powder helps keep the resin from developing cracks. It seems to work I had no cracks in my stators.
@HeavyDemir When you cast a large amount of resin like the stators its suppose to help it not crack when it cures. I guess it works I have cast 3 stators so far with no cracks.
I'd like to see the wind turbine finished and working, can't seem to find the series on this particular build.
@FrankaDith Everytime a magnet passes over a coil it creates electric current in the coil, as soon as the magnet passes the coil the current stops. So in a single phase it would be like - - - - - - - - - - - if you have multiply phases you do away with the start stop to some degree. So the electric current that is coming out of the generator is more like____________ I hope this helps It is more complicated than that but thats the basic idea. the three wires from the generator go into rectifier
Really good video! One question? Why would you put the three electrical connections on the inside? I put mine on the outside edge of the stator. Easy to get at to plug in. But I guess I haven’t seen your finished product yet. So, maybe it makes sense.
Ok the general Idea is smaller wire more turns higher volts less amps, I would start with 18awg or 20 awg wire at 100-130 turns each, That will get you in the right area. Wind speed, type of magnets, number of magnets, number of coils, size of coils in relation to magnets, magnets on top and bottom of stator or only one side. All these things affect the output of a wind turbine PMA, study Emagnets videos he has done alot of testing with different configurations. Good luck
Master craftsman! Great job !
Just wonderful, I've been looking for "make your own electricity solar panel" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Diyadison Penhloe Blaster - (search on google ) ? It is a smashing one off product for generating your own electricity minus the headache. Ive heard some super things about it and my neighbour got amazing success with it.
12 volts and how many amps? to get actual wattage?
excellent video by the way. and you speak in a relaxing voice, which is nice after a week of hard work
Good day, you could not tell what kind of pitch and what supplements you are used to it.
He he :) thanks for ur works and an advice from we, if you burn to end of coil for destroy wire isolation(enamel) by a small fire(for ex: lighter) it will be more easy but you must insert suddenly into a cold water(will be too more easy if it mixed some spirit) after heated to wire for sperate burned isolation enamel seperating from wire instead of destroy with a knife too shape too. Thanks...
I was measuring to caliper of wire in 0.01 mm sensivity by this technic in Abana Motorsan 3 phase AC Engine Motors...
Thanks for the comment
@Aceman307
Yeah i spent some time on that website, they explain a loads of good stuff but still as your saying... they are no perfect configuration, it is all about trial and error... I am currently working on my stator and will start to make a video during the last building process giving all used sizes ect... Hope this will help some other people.
I never done so much research for my other projects ;o)
Will keep you posted when video will be done.
Thank s for all your updates
😊
You know what would be good,,,,if you punched out the center of the coils to really let the magnetic field flow through unobstructed,,,may add 25% or more!!!!
nice casting.
Thanks
@24coroneo You need to cover the coils to be able to mount them between the magnets and to keep them from moving, also to protect them.
@Caleb6543 I forgot to show that I covered them with the snow seal. When I pulled it apart and ran the nut down on the studs the resin just came of f no problem.
@growdankdank I got mine from a store that sells parts to rebuild electric motors, make sure its the enamel coated wire. Good luck
When I heard his voice, I thought he was 16 years old. When I saw his arm, I though he was 45 years old.
It also surprises me, why you don't use the same technique as those big giant windmills. 1 rotation of those blades, gives 70 rotations on the turbine, but you still use a direct approach. If you choose to lower the weight significantly, you could easily go for a 1 rotation of the blades to 20 to 30 rotations on the generator. but not with those tiny little blades.
It actually surprises me, you'd settle for those tiny little blades anyway. You obviously know what you are doing, so why not think bigger and more efficient, like a vertical windmill? (you have to tilt it a couple percent to get it's full potential, i've tested it)
@Purpleelliot When you make the coils just make sure they are going the same direction by looking at them.
Hy
Cogging is a result inefficient design. the number of magnets must be 1.333 times the number of coils. For example if number of coil is 3 then magnets must be 4. This way if 1 magnet is in max cogging then the next magnet is near to enter the next coil while the last magnet is leaving the coil. During the rotation the applied torque is very regular.
Im fairly certain if you were to put iron cores inside your coils you could increase your output.
Right now my turbine does not spin fast enough to get to 12-13 volts so until I can design the turbine to spin faster I can get any usable data. From what I can tell this stator and rotor set up would be better for an horizontal wind turbine.
Very good Mr, congratulations!!! Do you can send me coil electrical specifications how, diameter, wire gauge, number of turns and etc.
If you add metal to the stator you will get massive cogging and it would be difficult for the turbine to start up.
@BroadwyBound1 I am pretty sure you can find it at an Autoparts store. Like NAPA or Autozone
First off your videos are awesome, very informative. I'm in the research stage for building my first generator. I was curious as to why you didn't put cores in your coils? From what I've read they help the magnetic field pass through the coil more efficiently. I could be wrong, but I'm new to this and I know I'll be wrong from time to time. Lol
Were you kidding in 4:20, this video is man stuff. nothing boring about it!
+Stephen ChuksOnah Thanks, glad you found it interesting.
@BroadwyBound1 Great! Are you building the Remkick VAWT ? The Remkick VAWT I think is better. My videos that are numbered 1-6 will show you step by step the total construction. I used a tablespoon of talc to each cup of resin. Its suppose to help keep the resin from cracking I guess it works because none of my stators have cracked. The serpinetine coil is actually easier to make and hookup than the traditional coils. emagnets has alot of info on the outputs on the serpintines coils.
@velocity800 You probably wont be able to run anything but a small light directly off the wind turbine, and then it would only depend on how fast the wind is blowing as to how much power you get out. The idea is to use your wind generator to charge up batteries and then use an inverter to run your devices. Depending on how many batteries you have and the size of inverter you have you could run anything you wanted. Combining both wind and solar is ideal.
I just wanted to say you make EXCELLENT teaching materials. I always felt like this stuff was difficult to grasp but you laid it out very understandable. Nice work! The big question, did the stator work well for you with your configuration?
A little vac chamber would have worked wonders for degassing the resin.
Ok, Please clarify. Coil & Magnet Ratio.
1 Center (open space) I.D. of coil should be the diameter of the magnet
2 Height of ea coil should be 1/2 of magnet diameter
3 Coil diameter or O.D. should be 33.4% larger than magnet
4 Stator diameter should be 90% of Rotor diameter.
Now, please explain what is ideal wire diameter for low 5-7mph wind start up speeds. Thanks.
I have a small question...
ur mags are 3.5cm by 9mm right? and ur coils 5cm by 1.3 ...
i ve read a lot about coil windings and most of the people say that ur coil dia must be twice the dia of your mag ... i might understand that u reduced it to avoid airgaps betwin the mags but adding more wire on ur coils does make the generator more efficient???
so why did you choose this configuration?
Yes this is true but theoretically I think it would if any external force overcame the cogging. Also Circular coils are not the most efficient coil design this is because an almost triangle coil design creates a larger surface area for induced current.
@FrankaDith I have seen people use single phase all the way up to 5 phases check out emagnets videos he does alot of testing on different combinations of phases. Three phase is the same number of phases your house uses. By setting up your coils at 120 deg apart you get a smoother power output.
Excellent video! It took a lot of sorting through shitty videos to find you. Thanks
@Aceman307 I have motor cycle rectifiers ,wounder if that would be strong enough or just run it to a ac heater direct is more my plan , anything to help on the heating costs and in winter the wind doesn't stop much ,but i do appreciate your willingness to help .
Thanks for explaining the core to magnet size reletionship, was wondering what sort of current you can get. Cheers
Aceman, please clarify. It is my understanding that crowding the magnets like you show on the sawblade causes the flux field of magnets to bleed over one another. In other words, if there is some spacing of magnets, you capture the full flux field of each magnet when the coil passes over it. So the question is, should there be spacing between the magnets of at least the coils leg, not both coil legs, but at least enough spacing between magnets of at least one of the coils legs? Thanks.
My son and I have just cut out the wood framing and the wood rotor. We will be putting a circular saw blade on the wood like you did. We have learned so much from your videos! No videos yet, but we will start. I still need to make the coil winder so we can get those wound this weekend. I found fiberglass resin mix with hardener at Autozone like you suggested. Thanks. You added talc also. How did you determine how much to add? BTW, my son is in 5th grade and this is his Science Project.
did you outline your calculations for number of turns for each coil to give you a specific output? Volts and current?
I see this video is 11 years old, so not expecting him to answer.
I think that's why he emphasized the "rules of thumb" regarding the dimensions of the windings. He's using permanent magnets for the field charge, so the turns ratio would be much more important for voltage output control. Assuming proper diligence when wrapping the windings, physical dimensions are an acceptable alternative to counting each individual turn.
I've built a prototype generator which uses an electromagnet field. My findings are that the turns ratio is less important due to the ability to use a voltage regulator. But there are some balances to consider, depending on your source of mechanical input. The greater the ratio, the more torque input required but with lower field voltage. The lower the ratio, then the less mechanical torque required but needing a higher field voltage.
That is also a self-excited configuration. I'm going to build a second prototype which is not self-excited. Using a secondary permanent magnet generator on the same rotor shaft for the field charge, with the output regulated by the same voltage regulator configuration as the self-excited version. I'm a bit skeptical due to the inherent limitations, but I am curious to see how the efficiency changes as metered from the stator output.
The end goal is to build a practical generator. Thinking I'll probably also post a video series to document the build.
@Aceman307 Right and those are for 3phases. In your wiring diagram I was looking how the two coils for one of the phases were connected in series. In the wiring diagram on the site i mentioned, it shows a single phase diagram, but the wiring is positive to positive and negative to negative which confused me. Did you get a chance to see that diagram. I wanted to see if you agree. Thanks.
You mean something ferritic to drive up the flux through the coils? I'd think you'd want to be careful with your choice, since anything conductive will end up shielding at high frequencies.
umm so red, blue and yellow is connected in the middle from the inside of the spools, from that each series of spools are connected from outside to inside windings?
Nice sir iam from india .state tamilnadu
This is very nice. But pls can I have more information on the coil diagram and connection?
Each color wire's have a starting pole which its exiting wire goes to the start of the 2nd coil and it's exiting wire goes to the beginning of the 3rd coil But where does each 3rd coils exiting wire go , If you know what I mean. Do all starting poles go together ,and do all ending poles go together ,I'm trying to understand this I'm new at this .
Another problem!! Help! What did you use as the core of the coil. I used wood and it would not come out after completing the winding. Once it came out the wires came with it. If you could tell me what you used and where you got it that would be appreciated. Thanks!
Check out my video" completion of the PMA". If you have any questions feel free to ask.
@BroadwyBound1 You can hold them anyway you like as long as they dont move. The reason they are usally cast is so they are even and wont move so you can get the magnets as close as possible to the coils with out rubbing. Are you making a video of your setup? I would like to see it. Good luck with your project.
Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes!
Just wondering, why didn't you add up a screw for the neutral terminal for the star connected configuration, so that you'll be able to test it out un future?!
wonder if Plaster of Paris would work instead of resin - maybe mixed with
fiber glass Flox -
plaster dose shrink 5% when drying - plaster may work well as heat sink also -
Nice Suggestion +Groovy
I assure you it will work since I had also tried it.
I tried running this setup with naked coils, just held together with masking tape ,and it gave me very good results,just like the ones I got after APPLYING THE PLASTER. So ,Scientifically ,there is no violation of the principles of electromagnetism.
The only things you have to take into consideration is
1)Minimize the distance that the plaster of Paris combination will take so that the magnetic field between the magnets(across the stator) wont be reduced
2) Keeping your combination away from water/solvents such that the plaster wont be affected. This too applies to humid conditions which in the long run could degrade the plaster.
My final recommendation to this would be ,If at all one uses the Plaster Of Paris (POP) instead of the resin, this setup will be fit for indoor uses and not for outdoor wind generation.
Hey man I really like what your trying to do here I'm working on free energy you should try neodymium n52 grade magnets same design you should be happy with those results
2024. watching from Nepal
Are you going to have magnets on both sides of the stator? From what I have learned is it helps if the magnets are mounted to a steel plate of some kind. I guess you could bolt a steel plate to the aluminum rim. I think you could go with a 16 or 14 gauge wire for the stator coils. Also check out serpentine coils they are easier to make and make more power. Check out Emagnets channel and Lynxsteams channel they have alot of different designs they have tested out. Good luck
Very nice... thanks a lot. May i ask one question......
What will happen if put an iron core inside the coils.
You will have cogging.
What is that dark green liquid that you put on it to make it like a cement???
Very Nice Illustration Ace. Thanks For Sharing with us..
Why don't you put stator on both side of the rotor? You will get twice the power and I assume the coill are cheaper than magnets.
in the middle of the coils seems like so much space is wasted? couldnt you put another coil inside the large diameter coil
But as monophasic will be arranging magnets and coils as unit,
How many turns 2200V but 220v
Im sure you can build it too guys. Just look for InpliX page click the PIG and build it too
Nice! Thank you for showing. I couldn't find the wiring diagram anywhere. Looks like that website has been taken down. Have you got any secondary source where I could download this diagram? Cheers!
Hi, this seems very good.
I was wondering how much wattage per hour do you get out of it?
Very Good this Alternator!
Thanks, checkout some of my other videos.
Aceman307 Thanks!
Hi. Actually the shaft will be mounted horizontal like a regular generator. We tried to start doing the coils but we are having problems with the coil winder. When we turn the winder the lag bolt tightens and we cant turn the handle anymore. Can you clarify what you did to make the coil winder as far as how the handle is attached to the lag bolt and if the holes are bigger in some parts or they are all threaded. I hope to hear from you fast. We are trying to get the coils wound by tomorrow
I'm gonna make one but with an improved gear that every small rotation of the turbine will cause more spins of the generator