I watched this, went surfing and made the best turn of my life. Went home called my buddy Matt. He said he watched it, went surfing and the same thing happened. For us it was mostly foot placement. I never put my foot back enough. Looking forward to more...
You must also, in my humble opinion, open your arms like an eagle with the elbows bent, keep your head still and square to keep your gravity center in the middle of the board.
OMG rear foot position is the key!!! WOW mumma. Have always surfed backhand way better never understood why my friends could do massive turns on forehand and i could not ha ha this has changed my life in the water eat my bucket now friends. Move back foot back as far as you can and rip!!! Yeeeewwwww!!! This has seriously pissed me off for 15 years!!!! So thankful
Hey Chris, your note made me super stoked! Thank you for the enthusiasm. If you ever want to wrap about surf technique please feel free to email me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Thanks Frank! I'm glad it's helping. I just wrapped up a Surf Coaching Retreat here in Nicaragua. The waves were pumping and everyone scored. Hope to see you back down here soon. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
great tips. thanks for sharing. The looking in the direction helps a lot. When going the front-side it is really difficult to carve in steeper sections. At the start of the carve should we distribute weight on back foot(heal) to prevent digging the rail or just both feet evenly to maintain a good balance and push the hips forward. I seem to dig the rail a lot and notice this is a big problem for a lot of surfers. For some reason I was better at front side in my first year of surfing lol. I pulled off the most perfect cutback in my first year and was never able to reproduce it again with the same flow. It has been almost 1 and half years since I started surfing. My backhand carves has progressed really well. Just wish I felt the cutback on the frontside :/ Such an amazing feeling when you get it right :) Being a natural stance surfer I believe my trouble is my left arm not being on the outside of my left knee as you mentioned allowing the shoulders to open up. This must be why I am bogging the rail early in the turn. Need to train that left arm with more focus.
Hey Jayson, Thank you for reaching out. Yes putting pressure on your back heal and pivoting around that point is one of the keys. Don't lean! I'd be happy to talk to you more in depth if you'd like to email me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. Looking forward to hearing from you. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Great video clips! Both pros have a great flow to their turn. It's interesting that most surf instructors preach that the board be perpendicular to the lip at the top of turn (12 o'clock to 6 o'clock snap). Yet it's clear that both these pros have their boards parallel to the lip at the top of turn (9 o'clock to 3 o'clock carve) Is it just a stylistic thing? I personally think the parallel position makes for a much more pleasing turn. I would appreciate hearing some insight on this. Keep up the great work
Hey Henry, thank you for commenting. Your board position on a wave depends on the type of turn you want to execute. Twelve and six would be a way to describe a vertical off the lip or snap. In the video above, the section they are approaching is better suited for a rounded top turn. Hence the reason their boards are angled in that way. It's important for surfers to be able to read each section and know what type of turn would be best suited to maximize success. I hope that helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to email me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. It's easier to do a long form email explanation. Best wishes! "Progression Through Technique!"
Loving your vids mate. You have re-motivated a learner whose losing hope after 6 months and not where I expected to be. Just wondering if the back foot should be right back for riding the face as well or just for turns up and down the face. Cheers mate. Keep up the great work🤙🤙
Thanks again for the nice comment. Stoked! I recommend to start with just focusing on getting your back foot all the way back for turns and riding the face. It's not ideal for every situation but we can talk more about that once you're consistently getting your back foot all the way back. Best wishes! chapin@surfprotechniques.com
Ya it sure was close. I hope the video helped. If you have any specific questions feel free to contact me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. "Progression through technique!"
It's determined by what type of section is in front of you. If you're on the shoulder and there is no where to go next then a roundhouse cut back with foam rebound is appropriate. If you still have a nice wall in front of you with the opportunity to do more turns then a forehand wrap is the better call. I hope that helps. "Progression through technique!"
Awesome tips man had arms and head movements down but i usually just have my foot centred on kickpad, worked fine. But shifting it back made it alot easier and felt more stable... thank you. Any tips on holding your board steady while carving into a reverse? As soon as my fins release if they don't grip again within a second or two, the board slides away from me. I would like to be able to hold the reverse for longer than a quick slide of the tail. Even complete it as a 360 would be awesome. this happens with both front and backside carves when attempting to push them into a reverse.... Assuming it's a balance/centre of weight problem.
+HotInTheseRhinos Stoked! I'm glad the techniques are helping you. I'll get back to you later this week with concepts and techniques you can use for your reverse. Take care! "Progression through technique!"
+HotInTheseRhinos Hey HotlnThesesRhinos, This is Chapin and I hope you've been scoring some waves over the past weeks. In answer to your question...when doing a tail slide there are 3 key techniques you can use to help maintain more control of your board throughout a tail slide. 1. Like all your turns you need to get your foot as far back as possible. This will help you keep your board steady. 2. Maintain a fluid upper body motion. One key to all turns lies in the motion of your upper body (arms, shoulders, torso). 3. Tail slides aren't about force. It's about the transition of weight at the right point in the turn and on the correct section. Remember to maintain a tight core (abdomen) and keep your body centralized over the board. When you are ready to pop the fins and start sliding, lean forward with a little more weight shifted towards your front foot . I always thought Cory Lopez had perfect technique when it came to tail slides so here are 3 videos you can analyze that will help you see what I'm talking about. I've noted the exact minute so you can fast forward to see the examples. Watch all of them over and over and you'll start to recognize the pattern I described above. Pay attention to Cory's back knee and how deeply it dips at an angle toward his front foot when he pops his fins. This is the weight transition I described. Also pay close attention to where he releases his fins on the wave. You will see he does tail slides on specific types of sections. (Cory Lopez- Legendary minute 3:35) (Cory Lopez | Fourth Day of Fall seconds :57 ) (All Aboard | Cory Lopez seconds :48) Let me know if that helps. "Progression through technique!"
+surfprotechniques Yes, Cory was the main reason i started going out and trying them. Also Laurie Towner has them down pretty good. Appreciate the tips, will definitely try this next time the waves are big enough. Bit of a lull the past few weeks. thanks for the feedback so soon.
Hey Real Wilko....thank you for your compliment. I'd be more then happy to check out any footage you have of you barrel riding. If you want you can send it to me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. You can also just shoot me any questions you might have at that email address also. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Hey Real Wildo....I just post a video on barrel riding as requested. I hope it helps! "Progression through technique!" from....Surf Progression Techniques.
Hey sorry for the late reply. Your front foot might need to be moved back slightly but first focus on your back foot. Once you can move your back foot at will and you still are finding yourself digging your rail on roundhouse cut backs or arching top turns then it will be time to consider your front foot. For now just get that back foot as far back on the tail for turns and up on the tail pad to generate speed. Back and forth, back and forth. I hope that helps. You can always email me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com if you want to get a hold of me directly. "Progression through technique!"
Hey Jubes, Thank you for reaching out. You are correct. If you want to go into more detail on upper body arm technique please feel free to reach out via email. chapin@surfprotechniques.com. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
How come you frequently say never let you from arm cross your lead leg, but in a recent video I saw about Ethan Ewing “unseen Ewing” -novacastrian waves he is letting that front arm cross in most of his saps, carves, and airs. I also saw arthur vilar, 12 year old Brazilian prodigy, on instagram doing airs with that front arm winding up in front of that lead leg as well. So, are there exceptions to this rule?
Hi @Kinetic1812, thank you for your question. In both of your examples, it is true that they let their lead arm drift across their body. And there are many more examples of professional surfers who also do this. For example John John Florence and Dane Reynolds. My suggestion to never let your lead arm drift across your body helps surfers improve their turns. Feel free to try both ways. What I've noticed is that when I apply this technique to my top turns I have a higher success rate of completion and when I see myself on film I'm a lot happier with the way my turn looks. I hope that answers your question. Please feel free to reach out with any more. Chapin@surfprotechniques.com
Hey Antoine, Thanks for your question. Depending on what type of top turn you want to do will determine how much pressure you put on your back toes. But to answer your question yes you'll usually put a bit more pressure on your back toes as you go through the bottom turn process. Feel free to contact me via email if you have any more question. chapin@surfprotechniques.com "Progression through technique!"
Hey Ryde, thanks for the comment. If you ever have any questions please feel free to reach out via email. chapin@surfprotechniques.com. I'm looking forward to learning more about you. :)
Please help when I try doing a front side carve/snap turn when I come out of the bottom turn i sometimes fall forward or after I complete the turn I fall backwards it's so annoying. The bottom turn I feel like is the problem sometimes I think I'm too high when I do my bottom turn and when I'm going from bottom turn to carve/snap. But I mostly fall backwards after completing frontside turn. Any tips??? I haven't really noticed how much I'm leaning when I do it, so maybe that's the problem idk? It's really holding be back from progressing into a cutback and airs. I want to get this fundamental down before I try that stuff
+Dead poolmonkey That is annoying! I know exactly what you are talking about. This is Chapin the founder of SurfPro Techniques. There are a few things to pay attention to and I'll break each one down for you. I'm here to help speed up your progression and because I don't have a photo of you doing these turns I'm just imagining your movements based on your description. You might be falling forward on your bottom turn because your back foot is not far enough back on the board. There is a good chance this is the cause. Next time you do a bottom turn look down at your feet as an experiment. If your back foot is not all the way back on your foot pad it's not back far enough. You might be leaning to far forward also but try moving your foot back first. (You can see a photo and description of this on our Facebook page. (SurfPro Techniques) Look for the photo of Mick Fanning doing a bottom turn. Falling backward on your top turn can be caused by a few things. (1)A lot of where you start your turn will determine where you finish. Are your fins popping out the top of the wave every time you fall back? (2)If you are extending your body and reaching for the lip of the wave to do your turn your balance can get thrown off. Try keeping your weight over the board through the whole turn. As if you were leaning forward through the turn. (3)Trying to turn the board with your legs and hips in a forced way can make you fall back also. You will complete more turns if you experiment with a few of these tips. In conclusion... If your feet are in the right spot on the board, you start your turn about half way up the face of the wave on the correct section of the wave, and you use the correct upper body movements you will decrease the amount of times you fall back. (Look for the photo of Mark Richards on our Facebook page using perfect technique at the top of his turn.) There are a lot of photos that illustrate how to do a great bottom turns and top turn on our Facebook page, SurfPro Techniques. You can also follow us on Instagram @SURFPROTECHNIQUES. “Progression through technique.” Please “like”, “share” or "subscribe" if you feel these tips help. If there is anything else I can help you with let me know.
thank you so much im going to surf tomorrow and try to pay attention to my foot placement and staying over the board. Maybe ill try to not crank the top turn until I get it smoothly. Thanks ill get back to you to tell you how it goes!
+Lu lz ...Hey Lu lz, Thank you for commenting. I hope the video helped despite me not touching upon rail control. I feel rail control is a byproduct of good body mechanics, foot placement and technique. Use your body correctly and your rail shall follow, is what I alway tell my students. If you found any helpful info in the video you can find more on my website. www.surfprotechniques.com. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Agree but how to control rail bouncy-float energy ; arms, shoulder ; hips ; knees only provide a twisting-directional energy. To find the answer i went back to Newton ! All techniques sites about surf don't dig deep enough in physics especially in surfing because we evoluate on viscosity ! Peace
+Lu lz ...That is really interesting and I'd like to learn more about your thoughts on the subject. I'm interested in the physics of surfing but I'm not very good in it. If you have a way for someone like me to understand the concepts you speak of let me know. You can always reach me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. Again thanks for commenting.
I watched this, went surfing and made the best turn of my life. Went home called my buddy Matt. He said he watched it, went surfing and the same thing happened. For us it was mostly foot placement. I never put my foot back enough. Looking forward to more...
owen commons I'm glad it helped Owen. Check out my next video on the Professional Pop-up coming later this weekend.
You must also, in my humble opinion, open your arms like an eagle with the elbows bent, keep your head still and square to keep your gravity center in the middle of the board.
OMG rear foot position is the key!!! WOW mumma. Have always surfed backhand way better never understood why my friends could do massive turns on forehand and i could not ha ha this has changed my life in the water eat my bucket now friends. Move back foot back as far as you can and rip!!! Yeeeewwwww!!! This has seriously pissed me off for 15 years!!!! So thankful
Hey Chris, your note made me super stoked! Thank you for the enthusiasm. If you ever want to wrap about surf technique please feel free to email me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Yeah Chapes, I keep coming back to these videos...concentrating on these techniques is unlocking so much! hope your well
Thanks Frank! I'm glad it's helping. I just wrapped up a Surf Coaching Retreat here in Nicaragua. The waves were pumping and everyone scored. Hope to see you back down here soon. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Awesome Chapin, such great insight!! Surfing reminds me a bit of yoga. I want to see footage of you shredding too.
There’s a great tip I heard to not look at your own spray. 😊
So true, thank you for adding value.
Thank you for the clear and helpful tips.
Nice video chapin. super informative keep it up.
Antonio blank Thank you Antonio! Is there anything I can help you with? What would you like to know more about with your surfing?
great tips. thanks for sharing. The looking in the direction helps a lot. When going the front-side it is really difficult to carve in steeper sections. At the start of the carve should we distribute weight on back foot(heal) to prevent digging the rail or just both feet evenly to maintain a good balance and push the hips forward. I seem to dig the rail a lot and notice this is a big problem for a lot of surfers. For some reason I was better at front side in my first year of surfing lol. I pulled off the most perfect cutback in my first year and was never able to reproduce it again with the same flow. It has been almost 1 and half years since I started surfing. My backhand carves has progressed really well. Just wish I felt the cutback on the frontside :/ Such an amazing feeling when you get it right :) Being a natural stance surfer I believe my trouble is my left arm not being on the outside of my left knee as you mentioned allowing the shoulders to open up. This must be why I am bogging the rail early in the turn. Need to train that left arm with more focus.
Hey Jayson, Thank you for reaching out. Yes putting pressure on your back heal and pivoting around that point is one of the keys. Don't lean! I'd be happy to talk to you more in depth if you'd like to email me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. Looking forward to hearing from you. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Great video clips! Both pros have a great flow to their turn. It's interesting that most surf instructors preach that the board be perpendicular to the lip at the top of turn (12 o'clock to 6 o'clock snap). Yet it's clear that both these pros have their boards parallel to the lip at the top of turn (9 o'clock to 3 o'clock carve)
Is it just a stylistic thing? I personally think the parallel position makes for a much more pleasing turn.
I would appreciate hearing some insight on this.
Keep up the great work
Hey Henry, thank you for commenting. Your board position on a wave depends on the type of turn you want to execute. Twelve and six would be a way to describe a vertical off the lip or snap. In the video above, the section they are approaching is better suited for a rounded top turn. Hence the reason their boards are angled in that way. It's important for surfers to be able to read each section and know what type of turn would be best suited to maximize success. I hope that helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to email me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. It's easier to do a long form email explanation. Best wishes! "Progression Through Technique!"
Loving your vids mate. You have re-motivated a learner whose losing hope after 6 months and not where I expected to be. Just wondering if the back foot should be right back for riding the face as well or just for turns up and down the face. Cheers mate. Keep up the great work🤙🤙
Thanks again for the nice comment. Stoked! I recommend to start with just focusing on getting your back foot all the way back for turns and riding the face. It's not ideal for every situation but we can talk more about that once you're consistently getting your back foot all the way back. Best wishes! chapin@surfprotechniques.com
Good video and analysis
However i would add a word or two about compression as it is a critical component for a great turn
Hey, Thanks for the comment. You're absolutely right, compression is a critical component of a bottom turn. :)
That kid lost his toes on Taylor Knox carve! Lol
Ya it sure was close. I hope the video helped. If you have any specific questions feel free to contact me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. "Progression through technique!"
a question I have is how to determine when we should go for a forehand wrap instead of a full roundhouse cutback (rebounding off the foam)
It's determined by what type of section is in front of you. If you're on the shoulder and there is no where to go next then a roundhouse cut back with foam rebound is appropriate. If you still have a nice wall in front of you with the opportunity to do more turns then a forehand wrap is the better call. I hope that helps. "Progression through technique!"
Awesome tips man had arms and head movements down but i usually just have my foot centred on kickpad, worked fine. But shifting it back made it alot easier and felt more stable... thank you.
Any tips on holding your board steady while carving into a reverse?
As soon as my fins release if they don't grip again within a second or two, the board slides away from me.
I would like to be able to hold the reverse for longer than a quick slide of the tail. Even complete it as a 360 would be awesome.
this happens with both front and backside carves when attempting to push them into a reverse.... Assuming it's a balance/centre of weight problem.
+HotInTheseRhinos Stoked! I'm glad the techniques are helping you. I'll get back to you later this week with concepts and techniques you can use for your reverse. Take care! "Progression through technique!"
+HotInTheseRhinos Hey HotlnThesesRhinos, This is Chapin and I hope you've been scoring some waves over the past weeks. In answer to your question...when doing a tail slide there are 3 key techniques you can use to help maintain more control of your board throughout a tail slide. 1. Like all your turns you need to get your foot as far back as possible. This will help you keep your board steady. 2. Maintain a fluid upper body motion. One key to all turns lies in the motion of your upper body (arms, shoulders, torso). 3. Tail slides aren't about force. It's about the transition of weight at the right point in the turn and on the correct section. Remember to maintain a tight core (abdomen) and keep your body centralized over the board. When you are ready to pop the fins and start sliding, lean forward with a little more weight shifted towards your front foot . I always thought Cory Lopez had perfect technique when it came to tail slides so here are 3 videos you can analyze that will help you see what I'm talking about. I've noted the exact minute so you can fast forward to see the examples. Watch all of them over and over and you'll start to recognize the pattern I described above. Pay attention to Cory's back knee and how deeply it dips at an angle toward his front foot when he pops his fins. This is the weight transition I described. Also pay close attention to where he releases his fins on the wave. You will see he does tail slides on specific types of sections. (Cory Lopez- Legendary minute 3:35) (Cory Lopez | Fourth Day of Fall seconds :57 ) (All Aboard | Cory Lopez seconds :48) Let me know if that helps. "Progression through technique!"
+surfprotechniques Yes, Cory was the main reason i started going out and trying them. Also Laurie Towner has them down pretty good.
Appreciate the tips, will definitely try this next time the waves are big enough. Bit of a lull the past few weeks.
thanks for the feedback so soon.
Great videos man - any chance you could look at barrel riding?
Hey Real Wilko....thank you for your compliment. I'd be more then happy to check out any footage you have of you barrel riding. If you want you can send it to me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. You can also just shoot me any questions you might have at that email address also. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Hey Real Wildo....I just post a video on barrel riding as requested. I hope it helps! "Progression through technique!" from....Surf Progression Techniques.
Very good. How about the front foot. Should it be back a little further than normal or....?
Hey sorry for the late reply. Your front foot might need to be moved back slightly but first focus on your back foot. Once you can move your back foot at will and you still are finding yourself digging your rail on roundhouse cut backs or arching top turns then it will be time to consider your front foot. For now just get that back foot as far back on the tail for turns and up on the tail pad to generate speed. Back and forth, back and forth. I hope that helps. You can always email me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com if you want to get a hold of me directly. "Progression through technique!"
Cool, thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
Happy to help! Best wishes!
its opposite arms for goofy foot right?
Hey Jubes, Thank you for reaching out. You are correct. If you want to go into more detail on upper body arm technique please feel free to reach out via email. chapin@surfprotechniques.com. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
How come you frequently say never let you from arm cross your lead leg, but in a recent video I saw about Ethan Ewing “unseen Ewing” -novacastrian waves he is letting that front arm cross in most of his saps, carves, and airs. I also saw arthur vilar, 12 year old Brazilian prodigy, on instagram doing airs with that front arm winding up in front of that lead leg as well. So, are there exceptions to this rule?
Side note: taro watanabe only keeps his front arm behind his lead leg and he absolutely shreds. So, is it more a style thing then?
Hi @Kinetic1812, thank you for your question. In both of your examples, it is true that they let their lead arm drift across their body. And there are many more examples of professional surfers who also do this. For example John John Florence and Dane Reynolds. My suggestion to never let your lead arm drift across your body helps surfers improve their turns. Feel free to try both ways. What I've noticed is that when I apply this technique to my top turns I have a higher success rate of completion and when I see myself on film I'm a lot happier with the way my turn looks. I hope that answers your question. Please feel free to reach out with any more. Chapin@surfprotechniques.com
Do I weight my toes especially on the back foot?
Hey Antoine, Thanks for your question. Depending on what type of top turn you want to do will determine how much pressure you put on your back toes. But to answer your question yes you'll usually put a bit more pressure on your back toes as you go through the bottom turn process. Feel free to contact me via email if you have any more question. chapin@surfprotechniques.com "Progression through technique!"
thanks for the response, that clears up some confusion ive had for a while. i dont do any other board sports so this is quite the process.
You're welcome! I'm happy I could help. Please feel free to hit me up with any other questions you may have. Best wishes!
Should of watched this before flailing te whole sesh
Hey Ryde, thanks for the comment. If you ever have any questions please feel free to reach out via email. chapin@surfprotechniques.com. I'm looking forward to learning more about you. :)
Please help when I try doing a front side carve/snap turn when I come out of the bottom turn i sometimes fall forward or after I complete the turn I fall backwards it's so annoying. The bottom turn I feel like is the problem sometimes I think I'm too high when I do my bottom turn and when I'm going from bottom turn to carve/snap. But I mostly fall backwards after completing frontside turn. Any tips??? I haven't really noticed how much I'm leaning when I do it, so maybe that's the problem idk? It's really holding be back from progressing into a cutback and airs. I want to get this fundamental down before I try that stuff
+Dead poolmonkey
That is annoying! I know exactly what you are talking about. This is Chapin the founder of SurfPro Techniques. There are a few things to pay attention to and I'll break each one down for you. I'm here to help speed up your progression and because I don't have a photo of you doing these turns I'm just imagining your movements based on your description.
You might be falling forward on your bottom turn because your back foot is not far enough back on the board. There is a good chance this is the cause. Next time you do a bottom turn look down at your feet as an experiment. If your back foot is not all the way back on your foot pad it's not back far enough. You might be leaning to far forward also but try moving your foot back first. (You can see a photo and description of this on our Facebook page. (SurfPro Techniques) Look for the photo of Mick Fanning doing a bottom turn.
Falling backward on your top turn can be caused by a few things. (1)A lot of where you start your turn will determine where you finish. Are your fins popping out the top of the wave every time you fall back? (2)If you are extending your body and reaching for the lip of the wave to do your turn your balance can get thrown off. Try keeping your weight over the board through the whole turn. As if you were leaning forward through the turn. (3)Trying to turn the board with your legs and hips in a forced way can make you fall back also. You will complete more turns if you experiment with a few of these tips. In conclusion... If your feet are in the right spot on the board, you start your turn about half way up the face of the wave on the correct section of the wave, and you use the correct upper body movements you will decrease the amount of times you fall back. (Look for the photo of Mark Richards on our Facebook page using perfect technique at the top of his turn.)
There are a lot of photos that illustrate how to do a great bottom turns and top turn on our Facebook page, SurfPro Techniques. You can also follow us on Instagram @SURFPROTECHNIQUES.
“Progression through technique.”
Please “like”, “share” or "subscribe" if you feel these tips help. If there is anything else I can help you with let me know.
thank you so much im going to surf tomorrow and try to pay attention to my foot placement and staying over the board. Maybe ill try to not crank the top turn until I get it smoothly. Thanks ill get back to you to tell you how it goes!
Please do, looking forward to hearing your results.
+Scott Horban....Your absolutely right Scott. Thank you for adding value.
you did not mention the rails control which is the real foundation for all moves
+Lu lz ...Hey Lu lz, Thank you for commenting. I hope the video helped despite me not touching upon rail control. I feel rail control is a byproduct of good body mechanics, foot placement and technique. Use your body correctly and your rail shall follow, is what I alway tell my students. If you found any helpful info in the video you can find more on my website. www.surfprotechniques.com. Best wishes! "Progression through technique!"
Agree but how to control rail bouncy-float energy ; arms, shoulder ; hips ; knees only provide a twisting-directional energy. To find the answer i went back to Newton ! All techniques sites about surf don't dig deep enough in physics especially in surfing because we evoluate on viscosity ! Peace
+Lu lz ...That is really interesting and I'd like to learn more about your thoughts on the subject. I'm interested in the physics of surfing but I'm not very good in it. If you have a way for someone like me to understand the concepts you speak of let me know. You can always reach me at chapin@surfprotechniques.com. Again thanks for commenting.