Thanks for this heads up. I've got a MD II with a wonky cartridge slot - you have to press the carts downwards onto the slot before they're recognised sometimes. I considered replacing the connector but it's bolted to the PCB with those rivets. What can I use to remove them?
If its wonky because the solder has cracked then may be easier to just go over the points with a soldering iron which should tighten it up but if you want to replace it. Once de-soldered, the best thing to remove the rivets is to drill them out or getting a pair of side cutters and snipping the plastic the rivet goes through and they should come out. Hope this helps and good luck
captain...I sympathise and relate a little with you on the cartridge slot removal..I have had that challenge some years ago..and I'm a City & Guilds toolmaker..which 99.9% are not..I managed..with many hours..to prise the rivet back to tube shape and extract the plastic slot..I even reused the brass rivet..why I was so careful to minimise damage to it..I knew I'd never see another exactly that size..patience is a virtue.. doesn't help mentioning that though..you'll need various sharp knives..good small pliers..a drill bit that fits snug inside the rivet so as not to deform it too much..and hours..then you'll need to reform the top of the rivet after refitting the replacement slot..I ground a few old oversized drill bits..the flat base of them into curves..and even sacrificed an old screwdriver ground the tip..so you'd need access to a grinder too..of course you might bypass all this if you can find a decent rivet set..good luck sir..
Also...of my 8 MegaDrives..4 x MD1 and 4 x MD2...one of each version had faults..pity my faulty MD2 isn't as easy as a loose power barrel socket..it has shaky graphics..yes..the shiggle but all the graphics are there..probably needs a total capacitor replacement..the faulty MD1 was black screen with white bars..research pointed to faulty PPU or Processor..so I have 6..and a half..and dozens of other consoles and handhelds
I agree, as soon as I sprayed it and tried clearing it off I realised that probably best to leave it be. It’s not causing any harm and if anything probably protecting the bottom of the board. I have a few more to do so I’ll see if it’s on them also
Thanks for this heads up. I've got a MD II with a wonky cartridge slot - you have to press the carts downwards onto the slot before they're recognised sometimes.
I considered replacing the connector but it's bolted to the PCB with those rivets. What can I use to remove them?
If its wonky because the solder has cracked then may be easier to just go over the points with a soldering iron which should tighten it up but if you want to replace it. Once de-soldered, the best thing to remove the rivets is to drill them out or getting a pair of side cutters and snipping the plastic the rivet goes through and they should come out. Hope this helps and good luck
captain...I sympathise and relate a little with you on the cartridge slot removal..I have had that challenge some years ago..and I'm a City & Guilds toolmaker..which 99.9% are not..I managed..with many hours..to prise the rivet back to tube shape and extract the plastic slot..I even reused the brass rivet..why I was so careful to minimise damage to it..I knew I'd never see another exactly that size..patience is a virtue.. doesn't help mentioning that though..you'll need various sharp knives..good small pliers..a drill bit that fits snug inside the rivet so as not to deform it too much..and hours..then you'll need to reform the top of the rivet after refitting the replacement slot..I ground a few old oversized drill bits..the flat base of them into curves..and even sacrificed an old screwdriver ground the tip..so you'd need access to a grinder too..of course you might bypass all this if you can find a decent rivet set..good luck sir..
Also...of my 8 MegaDrives..4 x MD1 and 4 x MD2...one of each version had faults..pity my faulty MD2 isn't as easy as a loose power barrel socket..it has shaky graphics..yes..the shiggle but all the graphics are there..probably needs a total capacitor replacement..the faulty MD1 was black screen with white bars..research pointed to faulty PPU or Processor..so I have 6..and a half..and dozens of other consoles and handhelds
I think the goop was conformal coating. Trying to get it off just make a job you don't need.
I agree, as soon as I sprayed it and tried clearing it off I realised that probably best to leave it be. It’s not causing any harm and if anything probably protecting the bottom of the board. I have a few more to do so I’ll see if it’s on them also