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Cutting It Apart: $10,000 John Lobb Shoes (RTW vs. Bespoke)
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
- Explore what's inside John Lobb Shoes, the construction techniques, and the materials used: gentl.mn/cutti...
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→ Host: Sven Raphael Schneider
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00:00 Cutting Apart John Lobb Shoe Introduction
John Lobb is among the names that stand out when talking about men's shoes. The brand has a long and fascinating history, but what is it in their shoes that made them so popular up to this day?
00:30 John Lobb Paris RTW Shoe - Heel
If you think about it, what's different maybe to others is the kind of rubber layer. And we really don't know if it's for waterproofness. That's interesting. Then, lots of nails on the heel, thermal cap in the back. It's like a really thin one in the front.
04:10 Outsole & Welt Stitching
05:41 Shank & Cork Layer
06:56 Welt & Gemband
07:50 Uppers (Saddle & Vamp)
Outer layers seem to be quality calf leather. Nice nut sanded, nicely tanned. Interior, surprisingly, we have the shank. Metal reinforced some kind of artificial material shank. Another leather shank.
10:00 Sock Liner & Insole
10:40 Remaining Upper Areas
12:32 Heel Counter Area
13:29 Finishing Up
15:55 Raphael's Thoughts
And then, the kinds of pressed leather products. We would have expected maybe higher quality leathers throughout, maybe even for the heel cap, the toe cap. Would have expected truly all leather. Maybe, if it's the leather product, it's not the highest quality out there. Considering the price, we're a bit disappointed by that.
17:20 John Lobb London Bespoke Shoes - Overview
18:10 Shoe Trees & Detailing
19:00 Heel Layers
21:49 Channeled Outsole
22:30 Inner (Hair) Padding
23:40 Cork Midsole
24:55 Welt (& No Shank)
26:26 Tassels & Uppers
27:52 Heel Counter Area
28:45 Remaining Upper Areas
31:16 Insole & Sock Liner
You can see in a bespoke John Lobb shoe, there are fewer nails. You have the insole without the gem band. It's all done by hand. All the caps are leather. The liner was leather. And it's basically an all-leather shoe except for this foam and the thread. There are obviously lots of nails in the heel that you wouldn't quite see otherwise. And then, the really kind of hair-like material. Cork, only back but, no shank. That's definitely not what we would have expected.
33:36 Conclusion
We can definitely see that the $10,000 shoe is much better made. It's handmade. It takes more time. It has all the fit adjustments that you want. It has shoe trees. But, other bespoke shoemakers basically operate the same way.
There was nothing where we were like, "Wow! They use any special construction or materials or anything of that kind that would make that shoe a lot better."
With the bespoke shoe, obviously, the fit matters immensely and we can't judge the fit based on that. So, you get a fantastic fit from John Lobb. But, not from other shoemakers, obviously, that is a big plus in favor of John Lobb.
That being said, we trust that there are many shoemakers who can make you a well-fitting pair of bespoke shoes. In fact, in places like, Italy or in Austria, you may find a pair of bespoke shoes from not so well-known shoemakers that is just about the price of a John Lobb ready-to-wear shoe.
So, in that case, we'd obviously always prefer the bespoke shoe for the craftsman over the factory shoe from John Lobb.
It's like you have to be millionaire to afford everything that you guys recommend.
$1000 or $10,000, there are many who will drop the first on a rifle and the second on a fishing boat, each with considerable future expenses.
High-end camera, a nice cruise, second home, second car, motorcycle, kitchen remodel, I see disposable income choices pretty often.
If it's a DINK fam, that helps a lot.
Fortunately not! :) While the bespoke pair of shoes would have cost its original buyer around $10,000 to be made, we bought them secondhand for a small fraction of that price. Indeed, buying vintage is a great way to find high-quality items at affordable prices, if you know what to look for. Check out the link for more information. Thanks for watching! - Preston
www.gentlemansgazette.com/get-80-percent-off/?
Well it ain’t called the Peasant Gazette
@@gentlemansgazette cobler reaction video of this
@@davidcovington901 you cant use that in this argument they are shoes.
Raphael was making me so nervous the way he was using that knife and then when the crowbar slipped I audibly gasped lol
Same reaction.
He seemed to be making the same gesture with the box cutter as with the crowbar. Glad it was the crowbar that slipped!
22:30, they used to put horse or pig hair in the glue to strengthen it. Today they put fiberglass and call it Tiger Hair, used mostly in marine (boats, watercraft) application
Though I don't see myself ever having a pair of shoes worth 5 figures I always look forward to the videos from each member of the broadcast team. Not a classic, formal, or vintage guy, you've all taught me how a little attention here and there can help me compliment my wife, who always looks better anyway, when we go out, and make it seem as though I actually know what I'm doing. It really is amazing how differently people react to a guy who has paid a little attention to his details.
I honestly Will never understand why people pay that kind of money for something that goes on your feet and gets dirt and Filth and God knows what all over the bottom of it. Not to mention it gets sweaty, and why would you wear a paycheck on your feet?
Same here. I buy all my shoes used and just clean them up. I don't mind the coffee stains, mucus, blood and plasma on my clothes.
@@johnny5stacks60 it lasts 10 times longer, but sometimes its just the brand so.
There’s something inherently funny about watching Raphael use a crowbar to take apart a shoe.
Now I want to see him put it back together. D
And, not surprisingly, he's not used to using such a tool and ends up injuring himself hahaha.
@@LanguagesWithAndrew a cobbler he is not.
Most professionals and craftsmen I know hurt themselves all the time. It is just part of the working with your hands.
Yep, watching now 😎
The material between the cork and outsole is most likely a crepe material. It’s purpose is to eliminate the squeaking that sometimes occurs.
At first I though "ooh this looks like a fun gentlemens gazette video." But when Raphael actually started pulling these beautiful shoes apart.. well I need therapy now.
it does seem a shame to destroy beautiful things and waste something that could be used.
@@watcherwlc53 to be fare though, I'm sure Gentleman's Gazette made enough of off this video, or will over time to recoup the losses from taking apart these shoes.
@@watcherwlc53 he didn't cut through the leather though, just disassembled the parts. I think a good cobbler can put them back together. I've seen some awesome repair videos by Trenton & Heath or Tring shoe repair. The bespoke $10.000 most likely needed to be adjusted anyway, as they were made for another person.
I can also recommend the channel Rose Anvil. He actually destroys shoes by cutting them in half.
@@MrSmithers Still I hope u feel better after seeing those shoes destroyed 😅
@@TheSwedishRider Hopefully this will make the OP of this thread feel much better ☺😅
Have to put Raphael through the work safety training again :p
He's training for a new career in demolition.:D
I know people are name-dropping Rose Anvil in the comments, but I feel like doing a collaboration with Trenton And Heath would be more appropriate for this channel.
It's almost like Raphael saw a Rose Anvil video and said, "hold my cognac!" I dig this.
Actually, we had been talking about it when Antonio cut one open long before Rose Anvil. I just had to get all the tools first, and get started. Took a while, but now we're on a roll. Stay tuned for more...
@@gentlemansgazette I hope those cobbler's tools get a little screen time. Fascinating stuff there.
@@gentlemansgazette I am just a grateful to you and other people/ organizations like you for sharing this kind of inquisitive journey. Doing so makes us all better informed consumers so we spend our money on products worth our time and labor.
@@gentlemansgazette Might be interesting to see the inner construction of quality (and not so quality) clothing too, but _please_ don't sacrifice anything vintage to dissection! better would be to visit a maker of fine (or not so fine) clothing and see exactly what goes into it, and perhaps their explanation for each bit.
Rose Anvil makes some good stuff
The way that shank curved perfectly over Raphael's shoulder and around his head is about enough to make me believe in guardian angels. Too bad they weren't on duty for his hand!
The hand injury was a warning shot!
Sadly kind of what I expected, excellent video, I enjoyed it and no need to count nails
Raphael bled for you. Leave him a like.
It appears that the RTW was John Lobb Paris (Hermès) while the bespoke was John Lobb London (Family owned). They don’t really have much to do with each other.
Have to reset the "Days Without An Accident" sign at the Gentleman's Gazette studio back to zero.
I love videos like this that takes a peek behind the wizards curtains so to speak to see what actually is the difference between factory and bespoke products. I give you nod of respect too for sacrificing a little blood for the channel. :)
This has been a welt of information.
That was unique and amazing! Id love to see you take apart a canvassed suit vs a fused suit, I can imagine that would be much cheaper than this video!
Wishing you a pleasant day, thank you for making mine!
-Carl
Today I thought I'd arrived at Rose Anvil channel by mistake :)
I think some of the tape bits are intended to prevent leather slippage while machine-stitching. Interesting how the bespoke shoe appears to be made from the inner custom fit on out, while the off-the-shelf shoe is more all one unit.
That 'mystery' hairy stuff which did puzzle Raphael such a great deal is actually tarred felt (as used in roof insulation) and is the generally used material by West-End shoemakers. Equally West-End shoes do not have additional shanks. If the waist is properly constructed and rounded (or fiddle backed) and the heel height is within the standard range for men's shoes, the waist cannot bend lengthwise which a shank has to prevent.
The absence of a shank was very interesting. Are you saying that if there is enough width through the waist it cannot flex a lot anyway so they can leave the shank out? I thought that even high street shoes usually carry some kind of (plastic) shank?
I definitely recommend watching a few videos by Tring's Shoe Repair to learn how to take apart a shoe safely and efficiently ^ ^
Well done! And yes, very surprisingly outcome, with such a large difference we should expect a high quality product, but you showed us how we've been tricked by commerce. The good old fashion shoemaker is still the best: hand made shoes!
This channel is absolutely amazing. The videos are very fun to watch and I've learned a lot.
There are many things I saw on this channel that I was already doing but now I understand why those things have to be done.
Etiquette.
I'm probably more bothered than I should be about how out of place that huge blue ring is in a dismantelling video...
*edit extra word out
I'd take off *any* ring before doing such handiwork.
Such a good eye! I think this channel's hosts might approve.
In the same vein, I got weary of the 35-minute rat-a-tat me-&-my-snare-drum background track, so switched to Closed Captioning. A little inconvenient, but better than artificial tinnitus.
(Now I don't know what a "gem band" is!)
Dude, You’re crazy! But thanks for dissecting the shoes. What I appreciate most is that you do it unrehearsed as if one of us laypeople. The education is priceless.
I’ve always wanted to make or have a pair of boots made that are a cross between running shoes, hiking boots, and combat boots, made with high end shoe making techniques and materials. Cordovan, cork, etc. but also with a Kevlar or dyneema layers for increased protection as well as composite sections in the most vulnerable parts.
This is such an informative series with GG’s combining your creative direction with excellent opportunities for creating educational content. I certainly can’t afford $10K shoes but it doesn’t mean I’m not interested in learning what goes into the price at the fundamental level. Some might view this series as wasteful but pursuit of knowledge isn’t wasteful when done with good intentions and certainly with class and wit, as GG always exhibits. Thanks for another great video.
I left a like for this video because your team’s dedication. But cutting out two pairs of John Lobb’s was too painful to watch to the end…
They're not worth the price, the video proves that
The nails holding the heel are flat because of the way they're hammered: the shoe is put onto a metal support and when the nails come in contact with the metal, the point crimps resulting in the odd shape
Is nobody dying to make a joke about Sven's big blue ring?
Yeah, me neither.
Great informative video.
PS: I really love that plant in the background. Where did you bought it?
Nearly Natural
@@gentlemansgazette Thank you so much for your answer.
...and now...we are looking forward to see you put them back together! This was interesting, and painful to watch!
really common material in the Westend school, it helps to keep wet from the ground out of the shoe
good job! thank you for the extra steps you took to share the information!
now let's watch you put them back together.
We're all explorers here, unearthing together all the secrets from the Golden Age of gentlemen.
How much do you think it actually cost John Lobb to make the ready to wear pair, and how much for the bespoke pair, including the salary of the person taking the measurements of the customer’s feet? Considering that John Lobb has standard procedures to follow to minimize time, costs, and maximize profit, I wouldn’t be surprised if the real cost is less than 25% of the price for the RTW shoe, The bulk of the profit going to the distributors. The real profit for JL is in the bespoke pair.
John Lobb RTW and bespoke are actually not the same company. RTW is Hermes and Bespoke is still in the John Lobb family. It’s quite a complicated story, but don’t let the Lobb label fool you.
You cut my soul a bit.
I have got to say that this was a beautiful looking video, maybe it's the colourgrading but the close up is very pleasing to watch and the editing is smooth. Great video production 👍
Loved that Pinky Ring you had on. I am a Lapus stone fan. They have always been popular until the last 10 years or so. Can you share some information on that ring, where can I get one?
Moonpie
Those little metal pieces at the beginning are nails that were hammered in, but then the heads were cut off.
Please do an analysis of Don Johnson's wardrobe/style as Detective Sonny Crockett in 1980s series Miami Vice, as there's been a recent sequel. I know this very famous series was before your time. We would love to hear your chaps's take on that. Your channel is very enjoyable, watching here in the UK 🇬🇧
noted
Oy, my eyes are bleeding just thinking about that!
as a boots/shoes aficionado, really appreciate the breakdown and explanation Raphael.
You should collaborate with Rose Anvil. They love to tear down shoes/boots and analyse the construction too.
Raphael, while I really appreciate and enjoy these videos where we get to see inside things we usually don't, I am truly astonished you haven't yet lost a finger or two, what with your tool handling practices. On the edge of my seat with every thumb-out yank of a prybar, here.
The shank , is probably added to give the shoe rigidity and will propel you forward when walking . Very smart . Modern marathon running shoes have a similar shaped carbon plate , giving stiffness and the shoe recoils back after each stride . You can run long distances very fast without feeling fatigue … e.g Nike Vapor fly next % 2 , Nike Alpha Fly , Adidas adizero Adios pro 2 .
That's right, shoes need shanks. For someone such as myself who needs toe spring, I can't wear dress shoes every day. It's made me learn to wear sneakers/runners in co-ordination with my dress of choice; being a 70s - 90s nostalgia fanatic helps that.
Great job! Thank you for your analyzing and looking forward in GG shoes next time.
So many near misses Raphael! 😶 Please remember eyes and fingers don’t grow back 😬.
To be honest I could not finish watching the video 😵💫
The eyes got me. I like Raphael and wouldn't want to see him get hurt.
Tbh, even if I would have the money to buy bespoke shoes from John Lobb, I wouldn't. Of course there is indeed a lot of work and they are made with a lot of skill, but since I am not into names but into quality (and of course style) I am pretty sure I can find the same quality from a less known brand for a lower price from another craftsmen. Especially since I am living in germany italy isn't that far away, so I could get those shoes while saving enough money to be able to afford the vacation there with the saved money. Of course they are great and I understand where the price comes from, but are they really five times better than a bespoke shoe for 2000? I don't think so.
Surely they aren't 5 times better than a 2000$ bespoke shoe, but thats really what top of the line is all about, perfecting nuances.
I mean, can you really say that 2000$ bespoke shoes are 20x as good as 100$ either?
@@zilaz there you've got a good point of course. But I can say that the differences are bigger between 2000$ besproke shoes and 100$ RTW shoes than they are between 10000$ bespoke John Lobb shoes and 2000$ bespoke shoes of a less famous shoemaker.
Of course there is indeed a reason why John Lobb is that famous that he can take that much money, but you also do pay a lot for the brand itself. And I am not into names.
Agreed. There are more and more incredibly talented independent shoemakers. Many of whom make shoes that approach John Lobb level of quality. Some of that fee is certainly for the John Lobb name.
Have you considered the idea of making a video about brooches?
14:00 In school in a test on 'Industrial Arts', I was asked 'A wrench makes a very good hammer True or False?" I answered 'False' and got my mark.
Did no one show you how to use (or rather not use) an x-acto knife? You’re asking for that blade to fly into your eyeball!
I'm unsure whether the dismantled bespoke shoe was the one for the shorter leg but, if so, perhaps the 'horse hair mixture' and foam inserts to the sole were, like the thicker heel, to compensate for the leg length discrepancy?
5:29 - Fate had it so that the metal shank had to go past Raphael's head and not his eye... phew.
It's called a heel rand Raphael. Fun video!
Heel counter and Blind stitched sole
23:39 *whispers* John lobb bespoke shoe 😂
Well one thing that those nearly all good shoe brands forget is insole having good leather archsupport insole with gel and ortholite will turn every beautiful leather sole into best sportshoes they should consider it
Bedo and the Potters make it look soooo easy. LOL
I'd say Raphael was using the wrong method and tools for the job - creating a safety hazard for himself.
hey great vlog, whats the name of that shoe tool you were using. Juhaptergee
There is a big misinformation about John-Lobb. JL Paris never ever made ready to wear shoes, that are actually made in the UK's factory in Northampton. JL bespoke shoes are made both in Paris (which is one of the most important bespoke shoes workshop in the world), and in London St Jaime's street, which is the "historical" John-Lobb's family workshop.
If it interests you, there is a UA-cam that specializes in the dissection and examination of footwear in particular. Rose Anvil will bisect a shoe and examine the construction of a shoe from sole to tongue, and everything in between. Well worth checking out.
Suffering for the art of shoe demolition. ^^
2:19 something I never thought I would hear on this channel. But it seems like gentlemen are also human.
I’d like to see you guys cutting into a Meermin Linea Maestro shoes
Next video: vintage workwear.
Schneider.. der haarschnitt steht dir sehr gut! Macht dich dynamischer!
Raphael is just a soo sweet loove seeing him.
i have a huge crush on him hes so adorable
Yes, but can you put them back together now? ;)
Great job. Interestiing to see this. My most expensive dress shoes I own are only 550 bucks. Also a beautiful ring. Where do you have it from?
Can you review mid range and top end artifical eyes? I hear acrylics are in instead of glass.
Or eye protection: d&g $400k sunglasses v decent safety glasses?
Why did the bespoke shoe not have a shank? Is that normal?
Raphael you are awesome! Please don't count the nails on video though ;) I own several pairs from Shoepassion and would really like it if you would dissect a pair of boots from them! (their boots are 360 GYW)
Me thinks a gentleman should invest in a decent pair of safety glasses before adventuring on any future "engineering" endeavours. You only got one pair of eyeballs.
Dude. Seriously its disgusting to see you destroy such fine stuff.
If I had that much money I would have never watched this cobbling work😀😀
At 2:25
Coconut Husk, maybe?
I’m glad you survived that lol holy moley man be careful!!
Could you do a video on burning $10,000 in a fire to see what it's made out of?
Will it blend?
@@gentlemansgazette
*Yellow doesn't blend, that's the color of chicken.* *Only a fool spends $10,000 dollars on shoes. Do you have a soul ?*
@@askmeanything1365 Well fire the shoemakers and their sales crew. Fire everyone who works in an industry that makes a product that you personally disapprove of. That's good for the economy, I bet. To have more people impoverished, the poor get poorer.
Furthermore, those with more money to spend, will have nothing to spend it on. So, their bank accounts grow, so the rich get richer.
No, wait ....
@@askmeanything1365 If hyper inflation happens again you just might get that chance.
I believe that John Lobb Paris' shoes are made in Northampton, England. There are still plenty to choose from being as Loake, Barker, Church's, Trickers, Cheaney, Crockett & Jones etc. So although they are based in Paris their shoes are made in England. Obviously John Lobb bespoke shoes are made in England. And are a tad pricey.
You're right. John Lobb Paris also has a large bespoke atelier in Paris. I think their RTW shoes from Northampton are not as good as Edward Green.
How to break all health and safety rules when using a knife...🤣
A good idea would be to hire a cobler to open the shoes and explain the différences...
the black sticky filler in the front part of the bespoke shoes is probably tar felt
"gentleman-ly suffering for knowledge"
What a nice way to destroy good value shoes and do not explain anything interesting related to the different construction methods. What kind of ignorance showed in this video. It is better to invite an expert to deconstruct properly those shoes and give proper explanations about materials, parts and quality.
fascinating
You might want to wear some leather gloves or work gloves when doing this. Beautiful ring in the first half.
Would love to have seen Raphael wearing a morning suit when making this video.
Tonight on Bottom Gear. Raphael almost gets killed by a shoe.
I enjoy cobblers cutting shoes apart, but regular people cutting shoes apart is just too dangerous and even disrespectful.
This is supper kewl
Nice format here Raphaël. Liked it very much. Thanks.
This video needs an ASMR tag too!
I will be happy with that rtw shoe and you know the reason😂
A little painful to watch, but very instructive. I watch a cobbler occasionally tear down expensive shoes, but it's always in the process of restoring them.
Somehow I knew there was going to be an injury as soon as you started.
This video is good need to wear glove n safety equipment before tier thing apart..all the best boss
10.000 $ Shoe but a 2$ knife
Wow !
“Hello honey, what did you do today?”
“Oh not much. I just destroyed my $10,000 shoes for UA-cam views!”
“…I’m taking the kids to my mothers, and I want you out of this house by the end of the week”
All kidding aside, pretty interesting video. You should be wearing SAFETY GLASSES! But it is interesting to see what shoes are made of, especially absurdly priced shoes!
Wao that was destructive
You almost got "shanked"! Close escape
Interesting content let’s have more videos like this and next time wear work gloves to protect your hands 👍