Thank you so much for this video. You saved me a lot of hassle.... they sent me mine and it was set to 24v instead of 12v and i thought it wasn't working. Looked in the settings using advice off yr video and found this was the problem. Thanks again
I bought the 24v version on accident, but I changed it to 12v in settings. Now it gives me the 4 error code saying bad igniter. When I hook it up to 24v it works fine. Do you know if the 24v version has a 24v specific igniter? If I buy a new 12v igniter maybe it will work?? Any help is appreciated!
I have the same problem, the Ebay supplier is hopeless, telling me I need to increase the voltage to 24Volt. the rest of the system is 12Volt, and it used to work fine before I broke the original control.
I bought the 24v version on accident, but I changed it to 12v in settings. Now it gives me the 4 error code saying bad igniter. When I hook it up to 24v it works fine. Do you know if the 24v version has a 24v specific igniter? If I buy a new 12v igniter maybe it will work?? Any help is appreciated!
@@RuvimAbaras sounds like yours is sooting up. Mine did once already. Cleaned it up and it's been fine. The problem comes from the layer of carbon lining the heat exchanger. Even if the heater is lit the carbon is keeping most of that heat inside and the temperature sensor is on the outside of that exchanger so it thinks the flame has died. And unfortunately every time it goes out that layer of carbon soaks a bit of fuel up and it just keeps getting worse. Sometimes it gets so bad that the carbon blocks the passage around the burner and the exhaust cant get out too freely and that just makes it worse. Check your exhaust pipe it's an easy way to get a glimpse inside. If theres a layer on the pipe it's far worse inside
Mine came with factory setting on minimum 1.0hz and after reading some topics and seen this video, I get into advantage settings and change minimum hz to 0.8 then put it in manual mode. After that, the case temperature dropped from 160°C on low to 140°C. My question is, would this setting do any harm if I use it like that on long term ?
Thanks for your video - very helpful. I have just installed a new lcd controller. On the main screen, when I try to set the temperature for the heater it shows "P-4.0 Hz" instead of the temperature setting. How can I chage the setting to show the set temperature rather than the current display. Thanks
SN is the overall fan speed. Sn 1 will make fan run slower than sn 2. I have a 8KW heater and on mine minimum pulse on sn1 is 1.4Hz. The goal is NOT to let the casting temperature below 100C. For me when outside temp is 0C I gotta run at 1.7Hz on sn2 or the heater will die. Also if you have a large space you would need sn2 and set your minimum pulse rate higher. That's when you running the heater with power supply. Cause you will be draining the battery faster as the fan speed is higher.
Update! Dont run the the heater with low core/casting temp. It will cause heavy heavy soot buildup that makes the heater not able to turn on anymore, unless you open it up and clean the burning chamber. The heater controller maintains a casting temp of 220C and if you wanna have reliable heat. You should adjust the settings so that you maintain that temp regardless of fan speed and HZ combination.
Speed Sensor Type There are two configurations of fan speed sensor on the heaters which can be controlled by these displays. Select one or the other according to the sensor type fitted. The original instructions say that if this is set incorrectly then the fan speed is doubled. As ever, select using arrow keys and press OK. It seems that different sensors are used, some with 1 and some with 2 magnets. SN=1: If fan has 1 magnet attached to it, to give the RPM signal SN=2: If fan has 2 magnets attached to it, to give the RPM signal [Per instructions found online]
Hey guys.. Can i switch this speed sensor off.. Because i am using the motherboard on old eberspacher.. He dosnt have magnets in the fan.. So i get every time e06. Can somebody help me.. Thanks
Watched your video it's very useful we've installed a 5kw heater into our land rover it gets hot ok the problem is when it reaches temp it turns off the fuel pump still runs when it fires up again it pours out white or bluish smoke and smells till it clears could this be a setup problem or a sensor somewhere regards mark
Hi Jeff thank you it seems to have sorted itself out after being used for a while pump minimum was set on 1.5 rest it to 0.8 no more smoke must of been set wrong to start before we purchased the unit
Great video. My heater controller displays hertz instead of temperature. When you press for increase temperature the frequency increases. How do I change from setting frequency to setting temperature?
On mine, you just press and hold upper left button for about three seconds and then you can move it to show temp with lower left button and change temp with arrow bottons on right.
I can pump diesel manually to prime the system, I guess I took a picture in that mode, also this icon shows up every time heater is working I guess it shows that the fuel is at the normal operation
@@RuvimAbaras have you played with the settings much? I'm interested to see others experiences. I was running veggie oil and diesel blend and I had to turn the pump way down and fan speed up and it produced just as much heat as on straight diesel pumping way faster. But unfortunately I get soot on the heat exchanger. Very fine carbon dust, but the burner itself is spotless. I am going to start processing waste veg oil into biodiesel and I should solve that problem as I believe the soot is from the glycerin in the veg oil.
SN=1 : If fan has 1 magnet attached to it to give the RPM signal SN=2 : If fan has 2 magnets attached to it to give the RPM signal What i cannot figure out: I have the new type LCD controller (the slanted / skew one) and it only gives me 1 timer input for timer 1 and 1 timer input for time 2. It works with hours and minutes DELAY: If i set timer-1 to 10 minutes and timer-2 to 15 minutes, the heater starts 10 minutes from now en stops 15 minutes later! I want to be able to set a start and stop TIME , how can i do that? anyone?
@@wanger0690 Nope, don't think so. With this controller you simply cannot set a start TIME, only a DURATION unfortunately. (while entering the DURATION, you can set it up to 99 hours and 99 minutes, if it was a TIME you were setting, you could only set up to 23 hours and 59 minutes)
Mine was working with 1688 but then, after messing up with the menu and switching to on (last option) for some unknown reasons, the code changes to 9009.
Question... when you set the temperature on 10 degree and temperature in the room is already 25 degree will the air heater keep on running or stop and start up again when temperature is falling please sombody let me know Thank you in advance, Willie
There is a controller a man made called afterburner that is very customizable. You can actually get it to stop and restart with a thermostat. And also can control it from an app.
Do any of you guys know about an E-07 message? I changed the panel and checked connections, it blew out a good bit of white smoke when first started and then showed this error and hasn’t run since
Hz is the amount of fuel injected. Rpm is fan speed for the hot air out & combustion air. Do not mess around with the settings if you do not have a handle what you are doing like being done on this video. You will end up with a heater that quits working or becomes a fire hazard. Fuel baseline should be 1.8Hz low side & 5.2 Hz High . Rpm 1680 Low & 4410 high. Factory unlock pin to get into settings is 1688
@@slickjimmy76 You seem to know what you are talking about. Let me ask what I hope is an easy question. I plan to go to colorado for about 4 or 5 days. Will my heater be able to handle the higher altitude np? Or will it soot up or something? If so, would adding maybe an ounce of Seafoam to the fuel tank compensate? Btw, I have the 2kw diesel heater with the really basic controls... just on and off buttons with a knob control.
@@101perspective If you have the basic controls, your unit will vary the speed of the fan and the fuel rate in a proportion designed for low altitude air densities. At higher altitudes, that mixture of fuel/air is going to be too rich, and will cause inefficient burn, resulting in soot accumulation. If this digital controller allows for independent setting of fuel rate and air rate, then you can set a leaner fuel/air mixture at higher altitudes. I have heard that the quality brands have addon modules to do this altitude adjustment automatically. I don't know the optimal fuel/air mix for different altitudes, but a forum pointer to this info would be greatly appreciated if anyone else knows of such. I'm unfamiliar with the way that seafoam works, so I'm not sure of it's effectiveness in a combustion chamber or if it is designed for cleaning the pre-ignition parts like fuel injectors.
@@101perspective Also, there is a good series on the importance of minimizing constraints in air source or exhaust flows. It is by John McK 47, and there is lots of detail. Constraining inflow or outflow of combustion air will result in soot accumulation. He also has some information on using kerosene, which I have also used mixed with diesel. My guess is that lighter and cleaner grades of kerosene will reduce soot compared to diesel.
I couldn't find one I went out and set it up early evening so I could see the display clearly I asked as the display is illuminated all the time if there was any way of turning it off when is not in use the answer was to switch the live so am measuring the power drain with it on and so far falls good
@@riklee Mine was fine for about 4 months, but now it has dimmed quite a lot. I bought and just received a new one and it's nice and bright, but it was also set to 24V also. Now set to correct 12V, thanks for the tip. My heater is a 5kW unit. What should all the other factory settings be set to? If the voltage was wrong I'm concerned that some of the other settings could be wrong. I tried to look at the factory settings of old controller but it won't accept pass code 1688. Any other pass codes? Thanks.
I set mine on P1.5 leave the fan setings alone then set to 12v SN 1 and that is it If your controller is set to show P munbers to set to centigrade press setting button and up button together for auto. Jeff@@lukeb5584
Awesome, thanks Greg. I'll try these out. I've got the 2kw with the 22ml pump, not sure what settings are yet as still waiting for LCD to arrive. But CO readings are super high so I'm assuming it's being over fuelled. Thanks for your help
@@sypris1001 I had the dial thermostat and mine was having issues staying running, seems better with the lcd. The lcd I added was blinking the battery symbol, had to enter the 1688 code to access parameters and also set the voltage to 12v.
No it's for the magnets on the fan. S1 is what they are supposed to be at but if the people who put it together mixed the polarities up they have s2 available. Basically if you put your fan in s2 and it speeds up twice as fast that's the wrong setting. You dont want to run these fans at 5000rpm for too long as they dont last very long. So most stay around 4500 and the fueling to match that speed
SN Its the setting for your RPM speed.
Look at your fan blade and if it has one magnet set it to sn1 and if 2 magnets number sn2
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. You saved me a lot of hassle.... they sent me mine and it was set to 24v instead of 12v and i thought it wasn't working. Looked in the settings using advice off yr video and found this was the problem. Thanks again
Not a problem glad to help :-)
I bought the 24v version on accident, but I changed it to 12v in settings. Now it gives me the 4 error code saying bad igniter. When I hook it up to 24v it works fine. Do you know if the 24v version has a 24v specific igniter? If I buy a new 12v igniter maybe it will work?? Any help is appreciated!
I have the same problem, the Ebay supplier is hopeless, telling me I need to increase the voltage to 24Volt. the rest of the system is 12Volt, and it used to work fine before I broke the original control.
@@EthanJBarnard you need a 12v ignitor 😉
Great vid. I have a question. How can I adjust the screen's brightness, if possible? Thx
I don't think it's possible:/
Pr oobably broken led its common
i would be careful on setting the heater on a very low setting on startup .You dont want to build up too much carbon so ive seen on a youtube video.
I bought the 24v version on accident, but I changed it to 12v in settings. Now it gives me the 4 error code saying bad igniter. When I hook it up to 24v it works fine. Do you know if the 24v version has a 24v specific igniter? If I buy a new 12v igniter maybe it will work?? Any help is appreciated!
Mine shows error all the time, therefore I have to fire up 7 to 9 times at a time, other than that it works great !
Yes there are two dif. voltage igniters ebay sells them in 12 or 24 volt
go in and turn the rpm's up and the max power down and it will cure the problem@@RuvimAbaras
@@RuvimAbaras sounds like yours is sooting up. Mine did once already. Cleaned it up and it's been fine. The problem comes from the layer of carbon lining the heat exchanger. Even if the heater is lit the carbon is keeping most of that heat inside and the temperature sensor is on the outside of that exchanger so it thinks the flame has died. And unfortunately every time it goes out that layer of carbon soaks a bit of fuel up and it just keeps getting worse. Sometimes it gets so bad that the carbon blocks the passage around the burner and the exhaust cant get out too freely and that just makes it worse. Check your exhaust pipe it's an easy way to get a glimpse inside. If theres a layer on the pipe it's far worse inside
Mine came with factory setting on minimum 1.0hz and after reading some topics and seen this video, I get into advantage settings and change minimum hz to 0.8 then put it in manual mode. After that, the case temperature dropped from 160°C on low to 140°C.
My question is, would this setting do any harm if I use it like that on long term ?
Not really! But I would raise the temperature once in awhile to burn off the chamber and the glow plug
@@RuvimAbaras You are right ! Maybe because of this I smell fuel or something like that, inside the van, while the heater is turning off.
Great video, thanks 🙏🏼
Thanks 😊
Thanks for your video - very helpful. I have just installed a new lcd controller. On the main screen, when I try to set the temperature for the heater it shows "P-4.0 Hz" instead of the temperature setting. How can I chage the setting to show the set temperature rather than the current display. Thanks
Hi, just found the answer to my question. Press the on/off button while holding down the < > buttons.
press the two top buttons at the same time.
Thanks Busa Mark. That fixed it!
SN is the overall fan speed. Sn 1 will make fan run slower than sn 2. I have a 8KW heater and on mine minimum pulse on sn1 is 1.4Hz. The goal is NOT to let the casting temperature below 100C. For me when outside temp is 0C I gotta run at 1.7Hz on sn2 or the heater will die. Also if you have a large space you would need sn2 and set your minimum pulse rate higher. That's when you running the heater with power supply. Cause you will be draining the battery faster as the fan speed is higher.
Thank you!
Update! Dont run the the heater with low core/casting temp. It will cause heavy heavy soot buildup that makes the heater not able to turn on anymore, unless you open it up and clean the burning chamber. The heater controller maintains a casting temp of 220C and if you wanna have reliable heat. You should adjust the settings so that you maintain that temp regardless of fan speed and HZ combination.
How do I check or change the settings to maintain casting temp at 220 degs? Mine soots up and stops within a couple of hours. I have 2kw?
What is this for whats benefits of doing this i have the same heater
Thanks a lot for your video
Speed Sensor Type
There are two configurations of fan speed sensor on the heaters which can be controlled by these displays. Select one or the other according
to the sensor type fitted. The original instructions say that if this is set incorrectly then the fan speed is doubled. As ever, select using arrow
keys and press OK. It seems that different sensors are used, some with 1 and some with 2 magnets.
SN=1: If fan has 1 magnet attached to it, to give the RPM signal
SN=2: If fan has 2 magnets attached to it, to give the RPM signal
[Per instructions found online]
Thank you
Hey guys.. Can i switch this speed sensor off.. Because i am using the motherboard on old eberspacher.. He dosnt have magnets in the fan.. So i get every time e06. Can somebody help me.. Thanks
I bought two heaters both have two magnets and factory set at sn=1
The speed is correct at this setting.
Watched your video it's very useful we've installed a 5kw heater into our land rover it gets hot ok the problem is when it reaches temp it turns off the fuel pump still runs when it fires up again it pours out white or bluish smoke and smells till it clears could this be a setup problem or a sensor somewhere regards mark
Sometimes it does smokes a lot on the cold
Mark Have you a p number on the screen if you have it needs to be set on temperature and should be automatic running hope it helps. Jeff
Hi Jeff thank you it seems to have sorted itself out after being used for a while pump minimum was set on 1.5 rest it to 0.8 no more smoke must of been set wrong to start before we purchased the unit
Great video. My heater controller displays hertz instead of temperature. When you press for increase temperature the frequency increases. How do I change from setting frequency to setting temperature?
Press setting and ↑ at the same time
On mine, you just press and hold upper left button for about three seconds and then you can move it to show temp with lower left button and change temp with arrow bottons on right.
Why does yours show a gasoline pump down in the bottom left side of your controller?
I can pump diesel manually to prime the system, I guess I took a picture in that mode, also this icon shows up every time heater is working I guess it shows that the fuel is at the normal operation
@@RuvimAbaras have you played with the settings much? I'm interested to see others experiences. I was running veggie oil and diesel blend and I had to turn the pump way down and fan speed up and it produced just as much heat as on straight diesel pumping way faster. But unfortunately I get soot on the heat exchanger. Very fine carbon dust, but the burner itself is spotless. I am going to start processing waste veg oil into biodiesel and I should solve that problem as I believe the soot is from the glycerin in the veg oil.
Why LCD is blinking?
What is the "PF5" setting on the 2kw ?
Also wondering this. Did you ever figure this out?
@@joshsipma623 power factor for glow plug.
SN=1 : If fan has 1 magnet attached to it to give the RPM signal
SN=2 : If fan has 2 magnets attached to it to give the RPM signal
What i cannot figure out:
I have the new type LCD controller (the slanted / skew one) and it only gives me 1 timer input for timer 1 and 1 timer input for time 2.
It works with hours and minutes DELAY:
If i set timer-1 to 10 minutes and timer-2 to 15 minutes, the heater starts 10 minutes from now en stops 15 minutes later!
I want to be able to set a start and stop TIME , how can i do that? anyone?
I think you have to set the clock first, otherwise it is just counting from "0"
@@wanger0690 Nope, don't think so. With this controller you simply cannot set a start TIME, only a DURATION unfortunately.
(while entering the DURATION, you can set it up to 99 hours and 99 minutes, if it was a TIME you were setting, you could only set up to 23 hours and 59 minutes)
Thanks for uploading this video, I was trying to figure out the admin password.
👍😊
Or 9009 works on sum if 1688 don't work.
Thanks!! Works on the smaller display without the timer on the screen.
You saved us! Thank you!
You my man are my hero!!! (sitting in a - 10degree C van in Toronto) this code worked for me
Mine was working with 1688 but then, after messing up with the menu and switching to on (last option) for some unknown reasons, the code changes to 9009.
Question... when you set the temperature on 10 degree and temperature in the room is already 25 degree will the air heater keep on running or stop and start up again when temperature is falling
please sombody let me know
Thank you in advance, Willie
Promotion Channel I wish it would stop but it still going to pump the fuel in the system :/
It ramps down to minimum output does not turn off.
There is a controller a man made called afterburner that is very customizable. You can actually get it to stop and restart with a thermostat. And also can control it from an app.
good video mate keep it up
thanks !
Hello can anyone tell me what factory / best settings for Hz / RMP . Thank you
Hi Is it a 2kw or 5kw thanks. Jeff
5 kw
To get a p8.0 that is so high normally they go p5.5 for a 5kw max not safe over that. Jeff@@RuvimAbaras
Do any of you guys know about an E-07 message? I changed the panel and checked connections, it blew out a good bit of white smoke when first started and then showed this error and hasn’t run since
I can help. Text me if you want 801.289.6302
Check continuity on blue wire from LCD to ECU. Replace ECU
Can someone tell me the effects of changing the Hz and the Revs?
Thanks :)
Hz is the amount of fuel injected. Rpm is fan speed for the hot air out & combustion air. Do not mess around with the settings if you do not have a handle what you are doing like being done on this video. You will end up with a heater that quits working or becomes a fire hazard. Fuel baseline should be 1.8Hz low side & 5.2 Hz High . Rpm 1680 Low & 4410 high. Factory unlock pin to get into settings is 1688
@@slickjimmy76 You seem to know what you are talking about. Let me ask what I hope is an easy question. I plan to go to colorado for about 4 or 5 days. Will my heater be able to handle the higher altitude np? Or will it soot up or something? If so, would adding maybe an ounce of Seafoam to the fuel tank compensate?
Btw, I have the 2kw diesel heater with the really basic controls... just on and off buttons with a knob control.
@@101perspective If you have the basic controls, your unit will vary the speed of the fan and the fuel rate in a proportion designed for low altitude air densities. At higher altitudes, that mixture of fuel/air is going to be too rich, and will cause inefficient burn, resulting in soot accumulation. If this digital controller allows for independent setting of fuel rate and air rate, then you can set a leaner fuel/air mixture at higher altitudes. I have heard that the quality brands have addon modules to do this altitude adjustment automatically. I don't know the optimal fuel/air mix for different altitudes, but a forum pointer to this info would be greatly appreciated if anyone else knows of such. I'm unfamiliar with the way that seafoam works, so I'm not sure of it's effectiveness in a combustion chamber or if it is designed for cleaning the pre-ignition parts like fuel injectors.
@@101perspective Also, there is a good series on the importance of minimizing constraints in air source or exhaust flows. It is by John McK 47, and there is lots of detail. Constraining inflow or outflow of combustion air will result in soot accumulation. He also has some information on using kerosene, which I have also used mixed with diesel. My guess is that lighter and cleaner grades of kerosene will reduce soot compared to diesel.
Pete Williams he also recommends running on highest setting for 5 mins before turning off to burn off soot
I can’t pair the remote control! Knows anyone why? Replaced the battery but still nothing...led is flashing
Remote program: press up and hold till is says HFA then press any button on remote
Bought new blue screen but just won't fire up
That is sad to hear, I would definitely try different screen
Any way to change the brightness of the display? Mine is impossible to see with the sun near it
I couldn't find one I went out and set it up early evening so I could see the display clearly I asked as the display is illuminated all the time if there was any way of turning it off when is not in use the answer was to switch the live so am measuring the power drain with it on and so far falls good
Mark Smith ah it's a pity no brightness setting. Thanks for the reply.
@@riklee Mine was fine for about 4 months, but now it has dimmed quite a lot.
I bought and just received a new one and it's nice and bright, but it was also set to 24V also. Now set to correct 12V, thanks for the tip.
My heater is a 5kW unit. What should all the other factory settings be set to? If the voltage was wrong I'm concerned that some of the other settings could be wrong. I tried to look at the factory settings of old controller but it won't accept pass code 1688. Any other pass codes?
Thanks.
I Got the blue one and it goes dark can be got from ebay hope it helps. Jeff@@riklee
I set mine on P1.5 leave the fan setings alone then set to 12v SN 1 and that is it If your controller is set to show P munbers to set to centigrade press setting button and up button together for auto. Jeff@@lukeb5584
Fan speed not the heater
What are the factory hz and fan speed settings?
Sorry not sure
I've heard good results with 1.9hz-5hz and 1680rpm -4500 at sea level
Does anyone know settings for 2kw unit?
Wouldn’t it be the same?
2kw P low 1.1, P high 3.0 - pumps less fuel than bigger ones, rpm same. I'm trying to turn my maximum down to save fuel and noise.
Awesome, thanks Greg.
I'll try these out.
I've got the 2kw with the 22ml pump, not sure what settings are yet as still waiting for LCD to arrive. But CO readings are super high so I'm assuming it's being over fuelled.
Thanks for your help
@@sypris1001 I had the dial thermostat and mine was having issues staying running, seems better with the lcd. The lcd I added was blinking the battery symbol, had to enter the 1688 code to access parameters and also set the voltage to 12v.
Sorry and shows no error codes regards mark
Sn1 and Sn2 = settings 1 and settings 2
and maybe the setting on timer on 1 and timer on 2? Just a guise.
No it's for the magnets on the fan. S1 is what they are supposed to be at but if the people who put it together mixed the polarities up they have s2 available. Basically if you put your fan in s2 and it speeds up twice as fast that's the wrong setting. You dont want to run these fans at 5000rpm for too long as they dont last very long. So most stay around 4500 and the fueling to match that speed
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