From Green Firewood To Vase - Deep Hollowing Wet Wood
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- www.AsWoodTurns...
This black locust wood came from my brother in Idaho. It was freshly cut. I took it home and promptly rough turned it to a cylinder, then a rough shape for a vase, then parted it in two. Each end was hollowed before coating it with Bowl Saver, a green wood sealer from Craft Supplies USA.
After a couple of months, I weighed each piece and recorded the date and weight on the wood. When the last weight was equal or higher than the previous weight, I figure the wood is dry.
I remounted each piece truing the tenon, finished hollowing each piece before fitting the top back to the bottom and gluing it together.
After final shaping and sanding, I disguised the joint with a fine shallow groove. To disguise that groove, I added another nearby then another pair near the bottom of the vase.
This vase is about 6" tall and 2.5" diameter, finished with walnut oil.
Enjoy!
Blog: www.AsWoodTurns...
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Music: Traumerei by Shumann performed by Becky Schlappi. Used with permission.
Great way to save that log from the fire.
Much longer lasting to view the vase than watch it burn. :)
Alan
Good way to deal with wet hollowing Alan,thanks for sharing!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
You're welcome Alan
Alan
Very cool vese 👍🏼
Thank you Tomas
Alan
Clever way to hollow it ,looks good. The waiting time to finish a green turned piece is the hard part.
Definitely the hard part.
Alan
Good job as always.
Thank you Wayne
Alan
A very cool project. And I'm very impressed that you have the roughing footage from 9 months ago...you are an organized guy!
Only one camera survived the waiting time.
Alan
Very nice!..thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend!
You are welcome.
Alan
I've been looking for a way to make a hollow form, and this suits me! Thank you for sharing this Allen and taking the time to make videos.
keep watching as I explore more ways.
Alan
Looks good. I like your hollowing technique.
Sure beats working through a small deep hole.
Alan
look at it under a black light, will look really cool since black locus glows in black lighting.
I'll try it out.
Thanks for pointing this out.
Alan
Nice
Thank you
Alan
As a new turner, I really appreciate how you explain why and how you’re doing things. Question: how come you needed to remove the tail stock when parting the first time but not during the second time? Thanks
There is always a risk when parting off that the wood will bind when the last wood is severed. In the first occasion, the wood was thick and wet both of which will increase the binding consequences. On the other hand, the wood was only rough turned, so if it dropped on the floor, no harm done.
The second occasion, the project was nearly finished, the diameter was smaller and the wood was dry. But ultimately, I did not want to risk completely severing the fibers and have it bind. I also did not want to risk losing control and having the project bounce on the floor.
You will notice on the second part, I did not completely sever. I left a little probably less than 1/8 nub. Then you will notice that I twisted off to separate the pieces. I also try to have the final break point, slightly away from the finished bottom so that when the wood breaks as I twist it, there is no damage to the bottom. The remaining nub was then sanded off.
Great question.
Alan
@@AsWoodTurns Cool, thanks!
Thanks for sharing
:) Sorry your comment came during a UA-cam changeover and I did not see it promptly.
I like the finished piece and the instruction on how you got there. I still wish you would use some more real time video. Still, thank you for sharing. I always like the results.
Thank you Glen and for persisting.
Alan
Lovely work, By chance have you tried to microwave wood to dry it out ?
Yes, but I did not enjoy the experience.'
I'm trying to develop my patience...
Alan
It is beautiful. The problem I would have facing after nine months of wating is having forget wat Í was going to do with it 😁.
All the best, Júlíus
Definitely a problem. I'm not sure what to do about it.
Alan
Nice work. I have one question, why can't you hollow it from the bottom and then cut a plug to go in it when you are finished? That way you wouldn't have to hide the unsightly joint?
Definitely an option. Look back to my video several weeks ago which is as you describe. However, I started this vase 9 months ago and have to live with that choice.
Alan
Thanks for another educational video, Alan.
A question... Did you consider using a simple butt joint to re-attach the top and bottom sections, rather than the mortise and tenon? This would minimize the discontinuity between the grains of the two parts, since you are cutting away less material. There would not be a lot of stress on the joint during normal use --- more so during the turning process. But, when you think about it, when we do segmented turning, all of the joints are simple butt joints. Having the joint right in the middle of the vase makes it hard to miss, but the three thin lines do help to disguise it. As turners, we'd notice the joint, but do the non-turners we give these items to see these things, and if they do, do they consider them distractions or features?
Another option for this shape of turning is to make the joint much closer to the bottom, below the "bulge". That way, the joint is much more out of sight. However, you now have a long/tall/deep top section to turn -- which can be an adventure!
Thanks again!
In segmented work, we have end grain butt joints between segments in a ring. These joints are very fragile. Then only get strong when we bricklay them with more rings with a side grain butt joint.
In this vase, the joint you describe would be an end grain butt joint. I would never use this joint in isolation.
As for joint placement. it can be anywhere that fits the design.
Alan
Ah, you're right! I never considered the end grain/side grain joint strength.