Thanks for demonstrating how to remove the barrels. I remember reading magazine adverts with these Brno’s being featured and thought they look “different” but well engineered. Today at my local clay ground they had one and I managed to get it for £12 ! It’ll need a good clean and woodwork refurbished but for that money I’m not complaining. All the best from Scotland 🏴GD
Thanks Stray, I found an arms dealer here in Ontario who just happened to have the cross bolt I was looking for, and I just installed it in the gun. Took the gun out for some trap shooting this weekend and had a great time with it.
If it's loose, movement from recoil can damage the wood. The gun won't explode, but you can cause more damage to the moving piece. If it's the forgrip then the stress can be placed on the long horizontal screw which can cause it to fail, or crack the grip, I would think.
The ZH series lacks an "inertia block" to prevent doubling and the doubling is caused by what is referred to as a "phantom pull". The gun is basically "bump firing". Recoil drives the gun back, taking your finger off the trigger enough to reset and fire again when your hold forces the gun forward again. It happens very fast. This has been solved in other guns by the "inertia block", a device which prevents this. Keeping the gun clean MAY help (can't hurt) but the best solution is to pull the trigger deliberately and firmly. I LOVE my BRNO ZH202 skeet gun....awesome quality. I am a great fan of Czech made guns, they don't make any junk! But the ZH series is quirky (I like quirky) I very rarely have a problem with doubling. I use ONLY the rear trigger, in fact the front trigger blade has been ground off (which also seemed to help the problem) Since the gun is choked skeet/skeet there is no purpose for selective triggers. I always fire the bottom barrel first. I only mention this but do not suggest it as a solution. The safety on my gun is NOT automatic. Again, as a purely target gun an automatic safety is not needed or even desired.
Yeah I realized the issue and made a video about it, I'm thinking adding some weight to it may actually help too. I'm keeping it with the 2 triggers because when I find a good deal I'm going to grab one of the combination barrels.
I hadn't thought of that (adding weight). It could reduce the reward gun velocity and keep from pulling your finger off the trigger. It would be easy enough to try. There is a good sized hollow in the buttstock, or you could add some clamp on weights to the barrel (skeet and trap shooters often use these to help with follow through). In skeet shooting I always load both barrels and RARELY have this problem. Another issue may be that I use light recoiling target loads, always. I only use the gun for skeet and never shoot anything but light 1-1/8oz, #9 target loads. Since the built in muzzle breaks prevent the use of tubes, I will never use it for anything but skeet. While I love the gun for skeet, I have other rifles and shotguns for trap, sporting clays and hunting (though I really don't hunt anymore) In the weight department, some lead shot put LOOSELY in the stock hollow may work perfectly. If you are familiar with "dead blow" hammers they use loose lead shot to prevent hammer "bounce", and since it is gun "bounce" that is causing the problem, this may just the trick!
The mechanism resets when the recoil forces your finger off the trigger while your muscle control is still "pulling" the trigger, but not strong enough to prevent the trigger from resetting. I don't think the speed of the mechanism, per se, can be altered. When pressure is relieved from the trigger, it resets. Reducing the velocity of the firearm in recoil with weight may help. Eliminating the "bounce" or "bump" (if we use the "bump fire" analogy) off the shoulder, may help. The gun is recoiling away from your finger which resets the mechanism, then bouncing off your shoulder to force the trigger against your finger. There is no inertia block in the mechanism to counteract this. Loose shot in the buttstock would act like a dead blow hammer and eliminate the "bounce", additional weight may reduce the recoil speed and keep your finger in contact with the trigger to prevent resetting until YOU decide. I think the fact that I VERY RARELY experience this with light target loads, which essentially reduce recoil speed and energy, would indicate you could be correct about adding weight. I am not sure what loose shot in the butt would do to the gun's balance. Target shooters tend to prefer muzzle heavy guns which aid in follow through. Easy to try, though. The gun is definitely worth the effort, it IS that good.
May be a way to fix it if you don't want to have to jerk the trigger to avoid the double, because lightly pulling does cause the double. If the mechanism swings back while the gun goes back then it cant catch the trigger more weight on the end of the mechanism may force it back just enough that even if the gun resets when you release the pressure it won't be acble to catch the other one before you pulled the trigger making it a dead trigger before you release it again. Not sure if I'm clear, but when I test it I will make a video.
No real solution other than don't shoot it loose. when you don't hold it very tight it tends to double fire. Also a good cleaning and oiling helps with it.
I have a video showing it. But in the end keeping the gun clean, holding it tight, and making sure you don't squeeze the trigger too slowly seems to help. The mechanism may be too light. Never got a real solution to it, just changed the way I shoot it.
Are you talking about the wood grip in the front or the back? Cause in the front there are 2 screws to remove, the one that goes through the wood that you see, and one that runs through the breech face of the barrel and into the grip IIRC. The stock (in the back) has one screw running through it. If you can't remove the screw then taking it to a gunsmith might be expensive but better than destroying your gun.
Great video man. Really appreciate it. I recently bought a zh 304 and 204 (7mm mauser/12 ga). No issues with double firing but the break action is super stiff and the extractor is not removing the fired 7mm cartridges (I need to use a screw driver to take them out after shooting). Plan on taking it apart and cleaning/lubing everything. Could be the ammo I was using too. Thanks again
@@Stray03 Hey Stray. I finally got around to dissembling and cleaning my rifles. have hit a road block with both of them however.. I am not sure the exact terminology of the parts, but the breach (the portion that slides and contains the firing pins/ top lever) will not slide freely backwards. I am un able to re-attach the barrel because bc the extractor sticks out combined with the breach not sticking back far enough prevents it from re allinging. I am attempting to re-attach the barrell to the receiver before attaching the stock (I don't see why that would matter). Do you have any advice or idea why the breach would not be able to slide back? (I followed your previous video as my guide). Thanks for your time Mark
@@dubcheeseburger @Mark Potomak you have taken it apart using the other video? I'd check for any burr or damage on the parts. Something may be over tightened. If it isn't moving then you have to take it apart and figure out if something wasn't assembled properly, or got damaged at one point in its history. .
Has anyone ever found any spare parts for these shotguns? From what I read parts are almost non-existent. I have a zh 201 but the parts look to be interchangeable from what I can tell from looking at the video.
I just got a zh201 from my step-dad (my first own shotgun). I just have a question on how the recoil is. Like is it very "hard"? Hope you understand what I mean :)
Congratulations on your first shotgun! You have a beauty. The recoil is not bad at all. The gun is heavy enough so that it absorbs some of the recoil. I would liken it to a .308 or 30-30. You definitely know that you are shooting something but it wont hurt your shoulder and it is nothing to worry about. Make sure you have a good seat in your shoulder pocket and make sure your posture is good and you will be fine.
As dogs said, not bad at all, If it fits you, you should have no problem spending a few hours breaking clays using standard 7 1/2 or 8 shot, without feeling punished.
Hello, Stray :) I would like to know, if the problem with paralel action of both barrels, when shot with back trigger, disappeared, after You cleaned the gun. I´m afraid it didn´t, because it is quite typical for these guns. In fact, ZH series is extremely interesting construction, those letters mean Zbrojovka (Zbrojovka Brno) and Holek, the name of the inventor. Emanuel Holek was brother of Václav Holek. These extremely talented brothers designed not only shotguns - Václav focused mostly on automatic weapons. One of them is extremely well known machine gun, originally caled ZB 26, but became legend in it´licensed rechambered british variant BREN, which means BRno - ENfield. Another, Václav Holek´s piece of art was ZB 37 heavy machine gun, used by all british tank radio operators...yes, it´s license name was BESA and that is why it used non-typical 7,92 Mauser ammo instead of standard British army .303 - it was difficult to rechamber. But let´s go back to legendary hunting and sporting rifles of czechoslovak Zbrojovka Brno. If You like them, best choice is Brno Super series, or, the most actual BO 800 series (commercial name "Brno Competition"). Interesting is that these guns have extremely high quality steel, practically undestroyable chromed barrels and quality of manufacture and wooden parts, comparable with top sporting variants of Berettas, Perazzi, Zoli or Guerini guns. And in the Czech Republic, you will probably buy them for 500 Euros...funny, isn´t it? On the other way, not everything with CZ mark means quality. BEWARE OF CZ-USA series shotguns (Mallard etc.) They are sold by CZUB in Europe and USA, but it´s only use of famous brand. In fact, these toys are made in Turkey, which means high quality wood, but average to poor manufacturing and steel quality. Brno means RollsRoyce among shotguns, Uherský Brod is...well, better Seat...
Interesting history, I got to play with a ZB26 back in the day along with the bren. Interesting rifles. After cleaning it it ran flawlessly for a long time, then once in a while it would fire both shots at the same time. I haven't taken it out for a long time so I don't know if she has gotten worse.
+Petr Mašek Because google changed the way it does responses I'm not sure you got the original reply, anyways I think I found out the problem with the double firing of these guns and the funny thing is that the problem is simpler than I thought, The cleaning of it I believe helped but just due to how the problem occurs and not really that it solved the issue. I'll be making a video on what I have figured out is causing the problem, and then I will be experimenting on ways to fix it without altering the rifle "permanently".
I just picked one up - I am missing the cross bolt for the wooden forearm...right now it's got a pin in it. Nice shotgun, or at least I like it, great quality, everything is heavy duty on it, and I like the unique way the breech moves.
Hey there Stray, I lost the front screw for the front hand guard on my BRNO 301. Do you know off hand about how long it is? I found a CZ distributor (deals with new and old Czech guns including BRNO's) where I am and he thinks he might have the right screw, just want to confirm the length.
Heho this Clip was very helpful, Thanks a lot, i just Bought one 2 hours ago with 2 Changing Barrels system for 50 Euro from an Old Guy, he said to me just give me the Money for the costs of Clearing the Gun from his license,
Nice they are well build firearms. The govt charges for that? Disgusting. First you are expected to follow useless laws then because they are expensive to implement they charge people. Talk about insult to injury.
@jasauve I got lucky and found it at 375 but I've seen them sell for as much as 699. And yes it is money well spent. It makes a nice hunting shotgun, and I use mine for trap shooting also. Hard to find good over and unders for less than 500 dollars, and this one is good quality.
I mean, when I want to clean it, it clicks empty. Sorry for my English, I try to take an example. If you have got a revolver, to shoot, you need to charge the hammer, if you haven't got cartridge in it, it will click empty. Same goes on the shotgun. When someone wants to put the shell in this shotgun, it will automatically charge the hammer, but if someone doesn't want to shoot ( Or somebody wants to clean it) it will click empty.
I saw your video on your solution to the doubling problem and noted that you test fired the gun holding it loosely at your side. Sort of "from the hip" but not touching your body. I had never fired my gun that way. I had it out for skeet shooting this weekend and tried that. it DOUBLED EVERY TIME with light skeet loads. When held and fired normally it almost never does this. I love the gun and the doubling is not a problem when fired normally, but just interesting
+Reidar Danielsson Don't know much about the 201. If it is full choke then I would avoid it. If you really want to use steel, ask a gunsmith. Only steel I shoot is out of a 10 gauge Browning BPS so I'm not really in the know when it comes to knowing if it is safe. My 301 is only used with lead Bird shot, although I hear the barrel steel is very good.
+Stray03 One gunsmith say this ,( i have read this in a magazine) so i think i can brotcha the barrel from 3/4 to half choke. In sweden we are not aloud to shoot with lead on shooting range, but of course when hunting. Thank you and have a good day //Reidar Secure shots with steel shot An eternal question, but of course it is possible there are some things to consider first Not narrower than half choke, preferably cyl. or 1/4 second Check the ammo you load as follows: There are two types of steel shot loads: For use in non-steel shot tested weapons MUST have the following specifications: Output Speed: up to 400 m / s Muzzle Torque: max 12Ns Charge Weight: max 30 gr Hail Size: max 3.25 mm (US4) Muzzle torque (Newton seconds), the output speed multiplied by the charge weight in kilograms. Use a larger hail charging the starting speed is reduced. For example, 40 grams of pellets (0.04kg) multiplied by 300 m / s = 12Ns Intended to be used only in steel shot tested weapons. Output Speed: up to 430 m / s Muzzle Torque: max 13,5Ns Charge Weight: max 32 g If coarser hail than 4 mm (US 1) will be used, the pipe orifice in the mouth was not more than 0.5 mm. Haglens hardness in both cases does not exceed 110 Vickers (HV1). Gast the jolts were the same as motvarande lead shot cartridges. so, you stick with the first category, it should be no problem.
Reidar Danielsson I thought it was for waterfowl you needed to use steel for. There are companies that make a round for 12 gauge that replaces lead, but I don't think it is cheap. Technically the round can be fired from barrels made for lead. Yeah You can probably ream the barrel to change the choke and it will be suitable for steel, but take it to a gunsmith and he will tell you for sure. Nothing like spending money to ream the barrel then having it still be dangerous to shoot steel from.
Lol I know, I already explained to someone why I don't try pronounce it, I'd rather have people complain about my spelling it than people complaining about pronunciation.
Thanks man! I couldn't find any info at all on that BRNO ZH 301. I found one for sale online for $425, can I ask what you paid for yours and if you feel it was money well spent? Glad you fixed the double trigger problem too! Getting both barrels unexpectedly would be pretty crazy...
Oh you meant acronym, I spell it out because I figured massacring the name would piss off more people. Since only you complained and no one who watched it from the Czech Republic did, I figure I made the right choice.
That´s all right. Try click on icon of microphone in Google translator-Czech language-BRNO. That´s right pronunciation. I wish to hear Englishman say it... :)
Can anyone tell me where can I find the 12 gauge barrels? I have the 12/7.57 R and the 16/16 type I want to have the 12/12 barrels. Appreciate any help...
Thanks for demonstrating how to remove the barrels. I remember reading magazine adverts with these Brno’s being featured and thought they look “different” but well engineered. Today at my local clay ground they had one and I managed to get it for £12 ! It’ll need a good clean and woodwork refurbished but for that money I’m not complaining.
All the best from Scotland 🏴GD
Nice. I wish I could get them at that price.
sorry about delay. The OAL for it is about 33mm or 1 5/16 inches the shaft length it is 1 1/4 inch or 32mm
Thanks Stray, I found an arms dealer here in Ontario who just happened to have the cross bolt I was looking for, and I just installed it in the gun. Took the gun out for some trap shooting this weekend and had a great time with it.
If it's loose, movement from recoil can damage the wood. The gun won't explode, but you can cause more damage to the moving piece. If it's the forgrip then the stress can be placed on the long horizontal screw which can cause it to fail, or crack the grip, I would think.
The ZH series lacks an "inertia block" to prevent doubling and the doubling is caused by what is referred to as a "phantom pull". The gun is basically "bump firing". Recoil drives the gun back, taking your finger off the trigger enough to reset and fire again when your hold forces the gun forward again. It happens very fast. This has been solved in other guns by the "inertia block", a device which prevents this. Keeping the gun clean MAY help (can't hurt) but the best solution is to pull the trigger deliberately and firmly. I LOVE my BRNO ZH202 skeet gun....awesome quality. I am a great fan of Czech made guns, they don't make any junk! But the ZH series is quirky (I like quirky) I very rarely have a problem with doubling. I use ONLY the rear trigger, in fact the front trigger blade has been ground off (which also seemed to help the problem) Since the gun is choked skeet/skeet there is no purpose for selective triggers. I always fire the bottom barrel first. I only mention this but do not suggest it as a solution. The safety on my gun is NOT automatic. Again, as a purely target gun an automatic safety is not needed or even desired.
Yeah I realized the issue and made a video about it, I'm thinking adding some weight to it may actually help too. I'm keeping it with the 2 triggers because when I find a good deal I'm going to grab one of the combination barrels.
I hadn't thought of that (adding weight). It could reduce the reward gun velocity and keep from pulling your finger off the trigger. It would be easy enough to try. There is a good sized hollow in the buttstock, or you could add some clamp on weights to the barrel (skeet and trap shooters often use these to help with follow through). In skeet shooting I always load both barrels and RARELY have this problem. Another issue may be that I use light recoiling target loads, always. I only use the gun for skeet and never shoot anything but light 1-1/8oz, #9 target loads. Since the built in muzzle breaks prevent the use of tubes, I will never use it for anything but skeet. While I love the gun for skeet, I have other rifles and shotguns for trap, sporting clays and hunting (though I really don't hunt anymore) In the weight department, some lead shot put LOOSELY in the stock hollow may work perfectly. If you are familiar with "dead blow" hammers they use loose lead shot to prevent hammer "bounce", and since it is gun "bounce" that is causing the problem, this may just the trick!
I was thinking more on the mechanism so that it takes longer to reset
The mechanism resets when the recoil forces your finger off the trigger while your muscle control is still "pulling" the trigger, but not strong enough to prevent the trigger from resetting. I don't think the speed of the mechanism, per se, can be altered. When pressure is relieved from the trigger, it resets. Reducing the velocity of the firearm in recoil with weight may help. Eliminating the "bounce" or "bump" (if we use the "bump fire" analogy) off the shoulder, may help. The gun is recoiling away from your finger which resets the mechanism, then bouncing off your shoulder to force the trigger against your finger. There is no inertia block in the mechanism to counteract this. Loose shot in the buttstock would act like a dead blow hammer and eliminate the "bounce", additional weight may reduce the recoil speed and keep your finger in contact with the trigger to prevent resetting until YOU decide. I think the fact that I VERY RARELY experience this with light target loads, which essentially reduce recoil speed and energy, would indicate you could be correct about adding weight. I am not sure what loose shot in the butt would do to the gun's balance. Target shooters tend to prefer muzzle heavy guns which aid in follow through. Easy to try, though. The gun is definitely worth the effort, it IS that good.
May be a way to fix it if you don't want to have to jerk the trigger to avoid the double, because lightly pulling does cause the double. If the mechanism swings back while the gun goes back then it cant catch the trigger more weight on the end of the mechanism may force it back just enough that even if the gun resets when you release the pressure it won't be acble to catch the other one before you pulled the trigger making it a dead trigger before you release it again. Not sure if I'm clear, but when I test it I will make a video.
Definitely, I like the ruggedness of the shotgun, It is also my small game shotgun due to that fact.
عندما استخدم الزناد الامامي تخرج طلقتين في نفس اللحضة اريد إجابة من فضلك شكرآ لك
No real solution other than don't shoot it loose. when you don't hold it very tight it tends to double fire. Also a good cleaning and oiling helps with it.
Can you explain more because when I try to shoot with the upper one the both of them shoot in them Same time
Do you have a solution for it
I have a video showing it. But in the end keeping the gun clean, holding it tight, and making sure you don't squeeze the trigger too slowly seems to help. The mechanism may be too light. Never got a real solution to it, just changed the way I shoot it.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsOT5GWxtiMzM?si=nVIes-7Ya-YAspOO
Give me your Facebook or Instagram account Or anything to contact you
how did you do it can you share with me , thank you
Do what?
on mine the back front screw is snapped in half is it a huge problem it is fermenuf so the grip wont fall of it but it is is a bit wobbly
Are you talking about the wood grip in the front or the back? Cause in the front there are 2 screws to remove, the one that goes through the wood that you see, and one that runs through the breech face of the barrel and into the grip IIRC. The stock (in the back) has one screw running through it. If you can't remove the screw then taking it to a gunsmith might be expensive but better than destroying your gun.
Thanks for the video! What are the characteristics of this shotgun,?concerning the weight, and the pressure, and the chokes, cordially
301 has full over full. Never weighed it.
@@Stray03 Thanks for answering me, what do you think of this shotgun?, because I'm probably going to buy it
Thank you for the instructional video. Just confirmed my own discoveries.
Good. Glad it helped
Great video man. Really appreciate it. I recently bought a zh 304 and 204 (7mm mauser/12 ga). No issues with double firing but the break action is super stiff and the extractor is not removing the fired 7mm cartridges (I need to use a screw driver to take them out after shooting). Plan on taking it apart and cleaning/lubing everything. Could be the ammo I was using too. Thanks again
I have a couple of barrels in .22 savage. Didn't have that issue with them yet.
Hope a good cleaning helps. How is the chamber looking on it?
@@Stray03 Chambers looking good. Both shot great. Shotgun shells had no issues ejecting.
Well let me know if the cleaning helps. May be jammed up as you say.
@@Stray03 Hey Stray. I finally got around to dissembling and cleaning my rifles. have hit a road block with both of them however.. I am not sure the exact terminology of the parts, but the breach (the portion that slides and contains the firing pins/ top lever) will not slide freely backwards. I am un able to re-attach the barrel because bc the extractor sticks out combined with the breach not sticking back far enough prevents it from re allinging.
I am attempting to re-attach the barrell to the receiver before attaching the stock (I don't see why that would matter).
Do you have any advice or idea why the breach would not be able to slide back? (I followed your previous video as my guide).
Thanks for your time
Mark
@@dubcheeseburger @Mark Potomak you have taken it apart using the other video? I'd check for any burr or damage on the parts. Something may be over tightened. If it isn't moving then you have to take it apart and figure out if something wasn't assembled properly, or got damaged at one point in its history. .
You mean when you are working on the receiver with no barrels in place?
Has anyone ever found any spare parts for these shotguns? From what I read parts are almost non-existent. I have a zh 201 but the parts look to be interchangeable from what I can tell from looking at the video.
Only extra barrels, but I haven't really looked for spare parts.
I just got a zh201 from my step-dad (my first own shotgun). I just have a question on how the recoil is. Like is it very "hard"? Hope you understand what I mean :)
Congratulations on your first shotgun! You have a beauty. The recoil is not bad at all. The gun is heavy enough so that it absorbs some of the recoil. I would liken it to a .308 or 30-30. You definitely know that you are shooting something but it wont hurt your shoulder and it is nothing to worry about. Make sure you have a good seat in your shoulder pocket and make sure your posture is good and you will be fine.
Thanks for responding, can't wait to test her out!
As dogs said, not bad at all, If it fits you, you should have no problem spending a few hours breaking clays using standard 7 1/2 or 8 shot, without feeling punished.
Hello, Stray :) I would like to know, if the problem with paralel action of both barrels, when shot with back trigger, disappeared, after You cleaned the gun. I´m afraid it didn´t, because it is quite typical for these guns. In fact, ZH series is extremely interesting construction, those letters mean Zbrojovka (Zbrojovka Brno) and Holek, the name of the inventor. Emanuel Holek was brother of Václav Holek. These extremely talented brothers designed not only shotguns - Václav focused mostly on automatic weapons. One of them is extremely well known machine gun, originally caled ZB 26, but became legend in it´licensed rechambered british variant BREN, which means BRno - ENfield. Another, Václav Holek´s piece of art was ZB 37 heavy machine gun, used by all british tank radio operators...yes, it´s license name was BESA and that is why it used non-typical 7,92 Mauser ammo instead of standard British army .303 - it was difficult to rechamber.
But let´s go back to legendary hunting and sporting rifles of czechoslovak Zbrojovka Brno. If You like them, best choice is Brno Super series, or, the most actual BO 800 series (commercial name "Brno Competition"). Interesting is that these guns have extremely high quality steel, practically undestroyable chromed barrels and quality of manufacture and wooden parts, comparable with top sporting variants of Berettas, Perazzi, Zoli or Guerini guns. And in the Czech Republic, you will probably buy them for 500 Euros...funny, isn´t it? On the other way, not everything with CZ mark means quality. BEWARE OF CZ-USA series shotguns (Mallard etc.) They are sold by CZUB in Europe and USA, but it´s only use of famous brand. In fact, these toys are made in Turkey, which means high quality wood, but average to poor manufacturing and steel quality. Brno means RollsRoyce among shotguns, Uherský Brod is...well, better Seat...
Interesting history, I got to play with a ZB26 back in the day along with the bren. Interesting rifles. After cleaning it it ran flawlessly for a long time, then once in a while it would fire both shots at the same time. I haven't taken it out for a long time so I don't know if she has gotten worse.
+Petr Mašek Because google changed the way it does responses I'm not sure you got the original reply, anyways I think I found out the problem with the double firing of these guns and the funny thing is that the problem is simpler than I thought, The cleaning of it I believe helped but just due to how the problem occurs and not really that it solved the issue. I'll be making a video on what I have figured out is causing the problem, and then I will be experimenting on ways to fix it without altering the rifle "permanently".
Yes I know see other replies. I don't know how to pronounce it properly so I spell it out. Apologies if it offends people.
I just picked one up - I am missing the cross bolt for the wooden forearm...right now it's got a pin in it.
Nice shotgun, or at least I like it, great quality, everything is heavy duty on it, and I like the unique way the breech moves.
Hey! Do you know if this shotgun could shoot steel? My range uses steel pellets and not lead.
Really not sure it may handle it ok if it isnt full choke. But I wont shoot steel out of mine.
@@Stray03 Thanks for the reply!
but is it a big problem or not really i haven't taken it to a gun smith yet he might be able to fix it for me
what horizontal screw do you mean so i shod take it to a gunsmith then
Hey there Stray, I lost the front screw for the front hand guard on my BRNO 301. Do you know off hand about how long it is? I found a CZ distributor (deals with new and old Czech guns including BRNO's) where I am and he thinks he might have the right screw, just want to confirm the length.
Heho this Clip was very helpful, Thanks a lot, i just Bought one 2 hours ago with 2 Changing Barrels system for 50 Euro from an Old Guy, he said to me just give me the Money for the costs of Clearing the Gun from his license,
Nice they are well build firearms. The govt charges for that? Disgusting. First you are expected to follow useless laws then because they are expensive to implement they charge people. Talk about insult to injury.
where can i get firing pin spare parts for zh303 model? its same with lanber model?
did you get an answer? I am needing pis for the model ZH301, can you email me if you know where to purchase? Capdonpll@gmail.com
@jasauve I got lucky and found it at 375 but I've seen them sell for as much as 699. And yes it is money well spent. It makes a nice hunting shotgun, and I use mine for trap shooting also. Hard to find good over and unders for less than 500 dollars, and this one is good quality.
Ft67⁰
Also you might see an answer to your question in my other video on the 301. There is a link to it at the beginning of this video.
I mean, when I want to clean it, it clicks empty.
Sorry for my English, I try to take an example.
If you have got a revolver, to shoot, you need to charge the hammer, if you haven't got cartridge in it, it will click empty.
Same goes on the shotgun. When someone wants to put the shell in this shotgun, it will automatically charge the hammer, but if someone doesn't want to shoot ( Or somebody wants to clean it) it will click empty.
Can't find a replacement? It seems like a shame, they are nice guns and to have and having a moving grip must get aggravating.
What do you mean? How to fire the gun, or how to empty it?
I saw your video on your solution to the doubling problem and noted that you test fired the gun holding it loosely at your side. Sort of "from the hip" but not touching your body. I had never fired my gun that way. I had it out for skeet shooting this weekend and tried that. it DOUBLED EVERY TIME with light skeet loads. When held and fired normally it almost never does this. I love the gun and the doubling is not a problem when fired normally, but just interesting
A loose slow squeeze will cause the double fire. Any position promoting that will probably cause it.
vz-58 (commercial variant CZ-858) and the zh301.
Hello
Can i shot with steel ammunition with a Brno ZH 201 3/4 special steel barrel
+Reidar Danielsson Don't know much about the 201. If it is full choke then I would avoid it. If you really want to use steel, ask a gunsmith. Only steel I shoot is out of a 10 gauge Browning BPS so I'm not really in the know when it comes to knowing if it is safe. My 301 is only used with lead Bird shot, although I hear the barrel steel is very good.
+Stray03
One gunsmith say this ,( i have read this in a magazine) so i think i can brotcha the barrel from 3/4 to half choke.
In sweden we are not aloud to shoot with lead on shooting range, but of course when hunting.
Thank you and have a good day
//Reidar
Secure shots with steel shot
An eternal question, but of course it is possible there are some things to consider first Not narrower than half choke, preferably cyl. or 1/4 second Check the ammo you load as follows: There are two types of steel shot loads: For use in non-steel shot tested weapons MUST have the following specifications: Output Speed: up to 400 m / s Muzzle Torque: max 12Ns Charge Weight: max 30 gr Hail Size: max 3.25 mm (US4) Muzzle torque (Newton seconds), the output speed multiplied by the charge weight in kilograms. Use a larger hail charging the starting speed is reduced. For example, 40 grams of pellets (0.04kg) multiplied by 300 m / s = 12Ns Intended to be used only in steel shot tested weapons. Output Speed: up to 430 m / s Muzzle Torque: max 13,5Ns Charge Weight: max 32 g If coarser hail than 4 mm (US 1) will be used, the pipe orifice in the mouth was not more than 0.5 mm. Haglens hardness in both cases does not exceed 110 Vickers (HV1). Gast the jolts were the same as motvarande lead shot cartridges. so, you stick with the first category, it should be no problem.
Reidar Danielsson I thought it was for waterfowl you needed to use steel for. There are companies that make a round for 12 gauge that replaces lead, but I don't think it is cheap. Technically the round can be fired from barrels made for lead. Yeah You can probably ream the barrel to change the choke and it will be suitable for steel, but take it to a gunsmith and he will tell you for sure. Nothing like spending money to ream the barrel then having it still be dangerous to shoot steel from.
Lol I know, I already explained to someone why I don't try pronounce it, I'd rather have people complain about my spelling it than people complaining about pronunciation.
Does this rifle eject bullet automaticly?
Extractors only no ejectors.
nice video as always where can we find spare parts for the brno zh 301
Good question. Maybe numrich in the us. Maybe western gun parts in canada. Could also try tradeex canada. They sold some of the shotguns.
Hey, thanks for vid, but how can I discharge it? Please answer.
it has only one detail - Brno is not an abbreviation but it's name of the city in Czech republic and the full name of the company is Zbrojovka Brno ;)
hello..can I request to you,you can show to me,how can works the drop to the shotgun barrel.
+Julius Ray Estrada What do you mean how the shotgun barrels are installed/removed?
+Stray03 Sir, i mean,the block barrel with spring how works, you can open close open the barrel
I think I have another 301 video where I take apart the gun, I may have shown it in there, If not let me know, I'll upload a video just on that
Does anyone know what choke is on the Brno model zh321 16 gauge???
Yes it is a very nice shotgun, Just keep her clean and oiled.
Just a "slip-on" by pachmayr I picked up at SAIL. Medium size fits, not perfect but it does the job of lengthening it for me.
Thanks man! I couldn't find any info at all on that BRNO ZH 301. I found one for sale online for $425, can I ask what you paid for yours and if you feel it was money well spent? Glad you fixed the double trigger problem too! Getting both barrels unexpectedly would be pretty crazy...
lol, Next time I make a video on the zh.
"B" "R" "N" "O" is name of the city in Czech Republik. It should be read together. Sorry for my English, I am from BRNO... :)
Really? It would be great! Do you have any Czech´s weapon?
Me están vendiendo la misma escopeta del vídeo no la conozco.alguien me puede dar alguna referencia...
Looking to buy one of those. Anyone can help me find one. Thank you
Easy to find in Canada and Europe. I think less so in the US but never really looked.
I actually like it there, if you forget to take it off, push forward with finger and it quicker for hunting.
Oh you meant acronym, I spell it out because I figured massacring the name would piss off more people. Since only you complained and no one who watched it from the Czech Republic did, I figure I made the right choice.
B-R-N-O is a place name not a frinking anagram.
Najbolja puska. Provereno!
Ubedljivo. Nasledio sam istu od oca. Vrhunski kvalitet. Pozdrav
Glad it helped.
That´s all right. Try click on icon of microphone in Google translator-Czech language-BRNO. That´s right pronunciation. I wish to hear Englishman say it... :)
Hahahahaha....yeah, you're right, an acronym. Sorry, I wasn't thinking.
No this is brno zh 304
301 is 12 gauge full over full. 304 is 12 and 7x57r. 305 is 12 with .22 hp.
اريد صبطان
Linda
Супер себе куплю
Got one and i hate it! that safety is in a very wrong place. I will never lern.
I will buy it from you if you still have it
*da*
Can anyone tell me where can I find the 12 gauge barrels? I have the 12/7.57 R and the 16/16 type I want to have the 12/12 barrels. Appreciate any help...
I wish, I've been looking for barrel sets, and can't find any.