I really love the click of a nice relay, I wish more devices had relays, not even if they're useful or not, I just want a reassuring thunk when I turn something on or switch a setting
Well done! Thank you for explaining the function of the jumper settings @ 11:35 ! In contrast to your module my device (looking exactly the same) the function of IR button # 9 does work properly as it should (as long as all jumpers are kept in their original position (left to middle pin)): When I press 9, all relays turn on, regardless how many relays were already switched on or off before.
The current spike to turn 8 relays at once on a low voltage board like that would be massive. When you are pressing 9, it is most likely dropping the voltage rail to the point of resetting the controller on the daughter-board, additionally, the wires you are using are fairly low current looking so they probably are not helping with the current requirement of the on spike. Isolate the power supply going to the daughterboard, put a schottky diode in series and then a largish electrolytic cap to keep the IC powered when the voltage dropped, the schottky stops the cap from being discharged by the relay, while having a lower voltage drop than a standard rectifier diode, which would possibly drop the supply too much and result in you still having the same problem.
@mnelson10000 A large capacitor would help as well when the PSU is going into current limiting. Thinking about it: The issue we are currently seeing on the logic side, could similarly happen on the power side. Imagine switching eight pretty hefty loads on... a good firmware would for those reasons slightly delay the power ons.
i am pretty sure when you press 9 it turns them all on, crashes the CPU and resets it to its off state. When only seams to happen with 3+ relais at once... Maybe you should try putting a small capacitor between VCC and GND on the chip itself, i guess that would help it :)
This is exactly what I was going to say. You could try adding a diode too between the chip's VCC and whatever connects it (breaking the track of course). Then the cap's voltage can't be sucked up by relays. Whatever it is you plan on powering, it's more impressive when they come on all at once.
My first thought as well. That would explain why 9 still fails some of the time even with six relays already turned on - the microcontroller is not liking the transients when more than one relay gets turned on at once.
Bought the 4 relay board for an Arduino business build, and here it is on Big Clive two days later! Seriously, this channel is a godsend to me, keep it up!
There's something comforting about the sound of a relay, probably because it's making a sound to say it's doing something, unlike a transistor that just switches on and off silently...
10:17 - Are lab power supplies banned in the UK? Both Clive and Julian Ilett never use them even when they would save so much time and of course give a more precise result. So very weird!
Regarding using a cellphone to view the IR emitter, at least on my iPhone 6, the rear facing camera has an IR filter on it (and/or is actively trying to cancel any IR signals), so it won't see IR remote control emitters, HOWEVER the forward-facing camera works fine!
Good to know, this is one of my favourite old tricks for testing IR gear and I often suggest it to clients when they call up and complain that a remote isn't working. Useful to know about the Apple products.
Rear cameras are usually attempting to be proper cameras, the front one is for narcissistic 'selfie' types so can (and should) be shitty and not IR filtered. In any dictionary you won't find 'selie' defined as 'self obsessed' I don't know why. I'm thinking of a Kickstarter campaign to launch a selfie stick with a few grams of C4 in the handle. Possible gone (as Clive might say) moderately off topic. Oops.
Clive, have you in your ebay expeditions found anyone selling these relays loose for silly Chinese prices. I was thinking about building a little binary adder or something out of relay logic and it seems like by far the cheapest way of doing it is to just grab a stack of those cheap-as-dirt opto-isolated relay boards.
First search term was "5V relay" then scrolled down and saw a few with just the relay, found that "SRD" was in all of those, added that to form "5V relay SRD" and then got JUST the right listings.
Benisteinzimmer never tought about the thermometer idea, but you should use it with a light sensor if you make one, as you don't wan't a noisy fan going on in the middle of the night if you use this system in your bedroom like I do
+bigclivedotcom a couple of years ago when I was using the cellphone IR trick was that I noticed my new iPhone 4 or 5 at the time the IR wasn't showing up. At first I thought bad remote, then for some reason it dawned on to use the front facing camera, I can't speak for what's out there now, but it appeared that they may have been some IR filtering one the rear facing camera of my old phone. I'm now using a Samsung Note 4 and can see the IR just fine.
I guess eBay is now going to be sold out of these. Just as well I have my multicolour led remote control bulbs to play with in the meantime - I have just ordered more for every light socket!
Would you be able to use this for Automotive applications such as bluetooth connected tablet controlling the ac or the lights or better yet push button start?
maybe that 10milliamp thing is a led in a optocoupler ... a stepper controller I used for a school project had a similar control thing that could be pulled either low or high
Chip could be a on/off debouncer like a maxim MAX16054, it has complimentary outputs. Or if its optical could be a photomos ? Would be interesting to see if this is actually isolated.
bigclivedotcom speaking of wireless switches, how effective are these cheap RF transmitters and receivers? www.ebay.ca/itm/433Mhz-RF-Wireless-Transmitter-and-Receiver-Link-Kit-Module-for-Arduino-UNO-R3-/271860872420?hash=item3f4c2bb4e4:g:228AAOSwEeFVSPO0 I was thinking of using one connected to a soft latching power switch to power a single pole double throw relay connected to a single pole double throw light switch in the "staircase wiring diagram" to wirelessly control the lights in my room. the circuit will be powered off of a capacitive dropper and a 12v zener diode to bring the voltage down. I know you're supposed to use an opto isolator to safely power the relay but since the whole thing is reference to mains anyway i think i'll leave it out as the entire circuitry will be encased in a grounded metal box (separate to the light switch) so if anything goes wrong it should be contained.
This unit has actual cutouts in the PCB. Looks like a more solid construction to me. de.aliexpress.com/item/J34-Free-Shipping-5V-8-Channel-Low-Level-Trigger-Solid-State-Relay-Module-with-Fuse-For/32434589435.html
If you can figure out the codes it uses then absolutely. Some of them you can even place them back to back and they'll listen to the code from the original remote and you can then assign that to a button. So this is very doable if you've got a fairly decent one.
I got one of those car stereo modules, connected it to my lab supply, gave it 5V and it worked just fine. Then since it's labeled 12V on the ad I gave it 12 and it exploded. Repeatedly. I'm guessing it's made for the really old cars, like Trabants, which really do only supply 6V or so. Either way, don't try to use them with 12V.
you could use that 8ch relay board for turning on/off the current limiting ballasts when blowing shit up on mains . ch1-50w ch2-50w ch3-50w ch4-100w ch5-100w ch6-200w ch7-200w ch8-200w total 950w lol
wow you made my dream explode.... I have been saving up for just one of these for months, everytime I sell something on ebay I get scammed out of everything I have. thanks for keeping my dream their though.
+bigclivedotcom, you can power those non-opto relay boards for a separate supply just fine. It's just a transistor controlling the relay. So instead of connecting the Vcc of the micro to the Vcc of the relay board just connect the power form a separate supply to Vcc of the relay board. And common ground the supplies and you're done :) No need for those modules that misuse a opto. I mean, seriously, use an opto en then connect the input and output of the opto to the same ground? :/
Hey Clive. These are very interesting. Where can I buy them or what do I need to search for exactly? One thing I didn't quite get: If you switch the jumper one one of the relays, can I still control the rest with the RC or does it break that functionality completely? I'm looking for something like this for a car project.
If this unit works like others I've seen.... With the power off press S1 button. Immediately press power on. Only one relay at a time can now be active. It has two other settings but Don't remember.
I have been using this module since a while for a diy aquarium build and paired it with an IR repeater . Mine module with the original remote has number 9 working as all relays on. So I am not sure if there is any issue with compatibility between the two remotes or something else. I had an issue with one out of 8 relays that after using it for a while it stays always on.
There are probably some of the cheapest relays you can find on those boards. I bought a 4-relay board from Velleman and it ehm, does not work. My brother who is waaaay more into electronics than I am and as a result has way more knowledge than me, has traced the circuit board and he doesn't understand why it doesn't work, he saw me connecting it, connected it himself and he has no idea why it doesn't work. If you exceed the maximum current at the specified voltage (which I presume is not exactly the specified amount that they print on the casing) or the device that you switch causes a huge inrush spike (let's say a switching mode power supply) or a huge spike at switch off (a transformer) this can fuse the contacts after a while.
I love these videos, because Clive explores electronics gadgets the way I would have. This one was a bit cringeworthy however; by the way he waves things around before getting to the point.
A common problem with these is the battery compartment is under spring tension, and the plastic clips meant to hold the drawer closed are under engineered, meaning the battery get's upchucked back out of the remote after little fiddling. Annoying little things.
Clive, could you show how you would design a system which would disconnect a load in case the MCU got stuck, please? Some sort of fail-safe hardware only method. I'm always scared to use arduino for controlling bigger loads. Let's say the mcu would send periodic "watchdog" pulses to the mechanism, otherwise it would disconnect.
+ bigclivedotcom Why do these remotes crap out after only a few hundred presses? And why when cleaned internally with a quick wipe they work again? theres little or no videos showing how they work ;) explanation ?
Ha Ha .. Mr Clive.. watch 3.06 your 1st Remote is also working but without pressing a button. that is a very common problem with this cheaper remote.If you could hack the remote & duplicate the IR codes to another cheap TV remote with better touch pad, the IR relay module will be very popular & long lasting. How did you missed that 6pin chip will be a opto-isolator like PS2622 or PS2621? :D
so in theory a relay going bad can leak the amps of the load contacts to the control contacts and then back to e.g. the Arduino if one doesn't use an opto-isolator ?
The relay doesn't have to go bad for this (and the way relais are constructed it would have to go VERY bad for it to start leaking). A relay is generally considered "isolation" (check the datasheet for up to which voltages). It is much more likely that dirt or moisture on the PCB will cause problems. That isn't really changed by using opto isolators, but by better board layout. The reason for optoisolators especially in these control applications is to isolate the "grounds". Ideally your GND would be the same potential everywhere. But it isn't that easy in reality. If you have your Arduino with its power supply in one room and the relay board with another power supply in another room, most likely on another circuit from the breaker box, connected with several meters of signal wire, it is very likely that your GNDs are not the same. Without isolation in bad cases that can mean that you have large currents running down your "GND" or signal wires, frying electronics or tripping RCDs. In less bad cases it may shift the signal (logic levels) enough so the receiver doesn't recognize them.
You could extend it a short distance with ordinary wire and a longer distance with a screened pair of wires where the screen was connected to the 0V connections .
Clive a interesting thing I found out! if you have a answer please. my friend has a IPhone and it does not see a infrared remote from the back camera but does see it from the front facing camera? I have never seen a CCD not see infrared and make it visible! a reason would be great.
If it's flash based you could erase and program it from scratch, but that might be a lot of work. Note that the all relays resetting thing may have been a glitch on that unit or worse, maybe a current threshold on my power supply resetting the processor.
So could you trigger these relays with the drop in voltage when a phone is taken off the hook? I am looking to turn on a lamp whenever the phone line is in use and have it turn off again when the phone hangs up.
You mean like tapping the phone lines? Maybe, but in most countries it's illegal to hook up unlicensed devices to phone lines. Maybe you could put a magnet in the handset and use a reed switch to trigger the relay module.
Just Awesome! Thank you so much. Very Descriptive and Academic. I have a request please. Would you be kind and make a tutorial video on how to connect an AC well water pump to a relay? If you could also advise on the correct pump start relay spec to purchase please. I plan to control my pump for the house from my cell phone using my Arduino UNO and a WiFi sheild. AC Well Pump Specs (India): -> 240 V -> 50 Hz -> 1.5 HP -> 6.6 A -> 2800 rev/min -> HEAD: 30 Feet If there is anything else you would need to know, kindly let me know. Eagerly awaiting your reply. Thanks & Best regards, Philip
The relay will melt, 6 Amps is quite alot.Get a industrial grade Solis state relay that's rated for 20 Amps.Connect ground of Arduino to SSR (Solid State Relay) ground.Use Pin13 for vcc (+ on the SSR).Use a simple code from the wifi shield and done! Get a weatherproof/waterproof case for the Arduino and SSR.
I want to use TV remote and Button for control Relay, We can use two ways TV remote or button but i'm not sure about code if you understand help me please!!!thanks.
Just received one of those relays two days ago so good to know. DO you think the contacts will hold up to the 10 amps their rated at ? Thanks for the info !
+bigclivedotcom Thanks, have been testing for a few hours now and so far : 12 volt-5amps for one hour, 12 volt - 7amps for one hour and then I went to 10 amps.... no smoke. Took the top off to see the contacts and they look ok...... for now! I think they'll be fine for what I need. Have some more on the way and think I'll push one to see just what they can take ! 😈 Yeah, I keep a fire extinguisher handy !
I don't think so. You would not believe how many chips get faked (Brand Logo + Partnumber, but a "compatible" die inside). The most famous case was FDTI with their USB-Chip sets. In other cases, you get real parts, which for some "odd" reason already contain data. Scratching the number off is just to make reverse engineering harder "the cheap way". (The more expensive way is, to order chips in bulk with custom printing - even the big semiconduter companies offer that service, when the quantity fits)
if electronics interests you you'd better stay along then you might learn something in the end :) Still learning things myself. A Relay is an electronically operated switch. Just like the wall switches in your house but instead of being pushed by a human hand they're pushed/pulled by an electromagnet that only requires a small current to flip the switch.
TheRobertSt the main usage is that an artifical brain (microcontroller) is able through the relay to switch on/off for instance heavy machinery (that runs on its own high voltage circuit). It does this by applying the required small current to turn on the electromagnet in the relay that flips a switch inside the relay. A good example is an elevator. It uses alot of relays and also has a microcontroller (PLC) to operate them
hi great videos. but i need help. im trying to build a stepper motor driver and i require a te555-1 chip. which i cant find.can i use a ne555? please help regards casemodder
isn't the problem with powering the relays occurring when they are switched off? To me the Problem with the Supply is the Inductive spike when they turn off (especially because the inductive effect of the relays would PREVENT the current from rising too quickly)
The inductive spike has transistor destroying risks. The turn on current has the potential to pull the power supply too low for the microcontroller to keep running.
bigclivedotcom Alright. This has to do with the electric arc that occurs when opening the relay? Could one concludes that you can go beyond 30VDC with a low current load?
No. I have one in my homemade audio amp and it plays .mp3 and .wav. Doesn't play .flac or something like that. But the audio quality is quite nice for the cheap stuff it is.
There really is no market in the retail sector for anything lossless. Aftermarket car radios had support it a few years back, but they limited them to non-high-rez bit depths and sample rates. Anything portable that will play lossless formats like FLAC is going to some expensive thing with magical pixie DACs made for audiophools. iPods play lossless, if you're willing to encode to ALAC. Find a classic one and put a modern SSD in it. Outside the home, there is zero point to lossless. Environments are too noisy to merit anything over medium bit rate lossy encoding.
This looks like the same unit. www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Multi-function-Infrared-Remote-Control-8-Channel-Relay-Module-Bidirectional-/252216092048?hash=item3ab9402590:g:BXsAAOSw1S9WclxV Beware! One of the "features" is: "output leads to a normally open and normally closed two electric shock". XD
There are also solid state relay modules available for similar prices: de.aliexpress.com/item/J34-Free-Shipping-5V-8-Channel-Low-Level-Trigger-Solid-State-Relay-Module-with-Fuse-For/32434589435.html
Something dangerous here on those relay modules the solder pads underneath are connected to connection clamps, some arduino projects suggest switching mains with these relays. !! Be careful touching the back of the board, and don't sit it on a conductor...
Also some models have way too small clearance between mains and electronics. One reason is the preference for "sugar cube" relays with the contact center pin next to the coil pins.
Check ebay for universal remote (sorted by cheapest: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sop=15&_oac=1&_nkw=universal+remote&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1). It is something that seems to be just an IR led attached to a 3.5mm plug. You can then use it with zazaremote app from play store to control virtually anything with an IR receiver (at least in theory - it has 3.8/5 rating with a million users). Both the app and IR plugs are made in China.
How about comparing those to the native UK units from robot elec? ( robot-electronics.co.uk ). We had (and still have) a couple of them in our company, and man, they are like working forever (like 5-7 years of continuous operation) :D (not infrared though)
I really love the click of a nice relay, I wish more devices had relays, not even if they're useful or not, I just want a reassuring thunk when I turn something on or switch a setting
Well done! Thank you for explaining the function of the jumper settings @ 11:35 !
In contrast to your module my device (looking exactly the same) the function of IR button # 9 does work properly as it should (as long as all jumpers are kept in their original position (left to middle pin)): When I press 9, all relays turn on, regardless how many relays were already switched on or off before.
Think Clive is building up to the remote garden light display of epic proportions.
But only with warm white leds!
+djteac lol :)
Don't you forget the pink ones!
The current spike to turn 8 relays at once on a low voltage board like that would be massive. When you are pressing 9, it is most likely dropping the voltage rail to the point of resetting the controller on the daughter-board, additionally, the wires you are using are fairly low current looking so they probably are not helping with the current requirement of the on spike. Isolate the power supply going to the daughterboard, put a schottky diode in series and then a largish electrolytic cap to keep the IC powered when the voltage dropped, the schottky stops the cap from being discharged by the relay, while having a lower voltage drop than a standard rectifier diode, which would possibly drop the supply too much and result in you still having the same problem.
Yup, especially since it did it once when he had 6 on.
That's a good point, I wonder if his power supply was current limiting
@mnelson10000 A large capacitor would help as well when the PSU is going into current limiting.
Thinking about it: The issue we are currently seeing on the logic side, could similarly happen on the power side.
Imagine switching eight pretty hefty loads on... a good firmware would for those reasons slightly delay the power ons.
I spent the whole video watching those alligator clips waiting for them to touch, then I remembered this wasn't Electroboom
They really like those "Songle" relays!
i am pretty sure when you press 9 it turns them all on, crashes the CPU and resets it to its off state. When only seams to happen with 3+ relais at once...
Maybe you should try putting a small capacitor between VCC and GND on the chip itself, i guess that would help it :)
This is exactly what I was going to say. You could try adding a diode too between the chip's VCC and whatever connects it (breaking the track of course). Then the cap's voltage can't be sucked up by relays.
Whatever it is you plan on powering, it's more impressive when they come on all at once.
My first thought as well. That would explain why 9 still fails some of the time even with six relays already turned on - the microcontroller is not liking the transients when more than one relay gets turned on at once.
Might also have been current limiting on the PSU... but yep, same concept
I'm away from my bench for a while due to work travel, but when I get back I'll try a beefier supply with some extra local capacitors.
How often do you have to fly or ferry to the mainland?
Bought the 4 relay board for an Arduino business build, and here it is on Big Clive two days later! Seriously, this channel is a godsend to me, keep it up!
i didnt know i needed that until just now.
Great to know these exist. Interesting audio module too.
There's something comforting about the sound of a relay, probably because it's making a sound to say it's doing something, unlike a transistor that just switches on and off silently...
Oh man, part of the reason I like these videos is your dialect, I love it. Adding the sexy sound of relays clicking? Hnnngg.
10:17 - Are lab power supplies banned in the UK? Both Clive and Julian Ilett never use them even when they would save so much time and of course give a more precise result. So very weird!
What do you think was providing the 12V? One would assume he only has a single rail supply
Julian likes to run his gear off his solar panels.
Thanks Clive, you've just made checking for IR barrier faults at work easier!
Regarding using a cellphone to view the IR emitter, at least on my iPhone 6, the rear facing camera has an IR filter on it (and/or is actively trying to cancel any IR signals), so it won't see IR remote control emitters, HOWEVER the forward-facing camera works fine!
Good tip, thanks, it solves the same problem with my iPad Air.
Good to know, this is one of my favourite old tricks for testing IR gear and I often suggest it to clients when they call up and complain that a remote isn't working. Useful to know about the Apple products.
Rear cameras are usually attempting to be proper cameras, the front one is for narcissistic 'selfie' types so can (and should) be shitty and not IR filtered. In any dictionary you won't find 'selie' defined as 'self obsessed' I don't know why. I'm thinking of a Kickstarter campaign to launch a selfie stick with a few grams of C4 in the handle. Possible gone (as Clive might say) moderately off topic. Oops.
@@philchadwick9470 The stick handle needs a taser coil wired to the shutter button :)
Clive, have you in your ebay expeditions found anyone selling these relays loose for silly Chinese prices. I was thinking about building a little binary adder or something out of relay logic and it seems like by far the cheapest way of doing it is to just grab a stack of those cheap-as-dirt opto-isolated relay boards.
10 seconds on eBay yielded this: www.ebay.com/itm/282036751368 27 cents each free shipping
I spent a good 20 minutes the other day and couldn't find a thing.
Seems my ebay-fu is poor.
First search term was "5V relay" then scrolled down and saw a few with just the relay, found that "SRD" was in all of those, added that to form "5V relay SRD" and then got JUST the right listings.
check the main sites lik alie baba and alie express. they should have every thing you ever want. alie baba will sell you decoy tanks as well.
All the relays on these boards seem to be manufactured by "songle" if that helps your searching.
Hey I have that exact same mp3 player. I am listening to you using its line in function.
I did a remote controlled fan with those relay, those are quite nice
Oh, I also wanted to do this. maybe coupled with a thermometer. But currently my relay module is controlling a pump that waters my plants.
Benisteinzimmer never tought about the thermometer idea, but you should use it with a light sensor if you make one, as you don't wan't a noisy fan going on in the middle of the night if you use this system in your bedroom like I do
+SheeepHead eh, sadly I have to have the fan running during hot nights since my room heats up pretty badly
+bigclivedotcom a couple of years ago when I was using the cellphone IR trick was that I noticed my new iPhone 4 or 5 at the time the IR wasn't showing up. At first I thought bad remote, then for some reason it dawned on to use the front facing camera, I can't speak for what's out there now, but it appeared that they may have been some IR filtering one the rear facing camera of my old phone. I'm now using a Samsung Note 4 and can see the IR just fine.
I guess eBay is now going to be sold out of these. Just as well I have my multicolour led remote control bulbs to play with in the meantime - I have just ordered more for every light socket!
1st time I've ever seen anything through your magnifier!
Would you be able to use this for Automotive applications such as bluetooth connected tablet controlling the ac or the lights or better yet push button start?
maybe that 10milliamp thing is a led in a optocoupler ... a stepper controller I used for a school project had a similar control thing that could be pulled either low or high
Chip could be a on/off debouncer like a maxim MAX16054, it has complimentary outputs.
Or if its optical could be a photomos ? Would be interesting to see if this is actually isolated.
duh its probably just a 4n46 actually, it has darlington outputs
is the spacing is poor would covering the tracks in corona dope be a valid solution?
A good PCB lacquer would help.
bigclivedotcom speaking of wireless switches, how effective are these cheap RF transmitters and receivers?
www.ebay.ca/itm/433Mhz-RF-Wireless-Transmitter-and-Receiver-Link-Kit-Module-for-Arduino-UNO-R3-/271860872420?hash=item3f4c2bb4e4:g:228AAOSwEeFVSPO0
I was thinking of using one connected to a soft latching power switch to power a single pole double throw relay connected to a single pole double throw light switch in the "staircase wiring diagram" to wirelessly control the lights in my room. the circuit will be powered off of a capacitive dropper and a 12v zener diode to bring the voltage down.
I know you're supposed to use an opto isolator to safely power the relay but since the whole thing is reference to mains anyway i think i'll leave it out as the entire circuitry will be encased in a grounded metal box (separate to the light switch) so if anything goes wrong it should be contained.
If you just want wireless control of lights then you do get the mains powered remote switches. I reviewed one recently.
bigclivedotcom oh wow it's REALLY cheap... really encourages people to be consumers instead of a producers, what a shame...
This unit has actual cutouts in the PCB. Looks like a more solid construction to me.
de.aliexpress.com/item/J34-Free-Shipping-5V-8-Channel-Low-Level-Trigger-Solid-State-Relay-Module-with-Fuse-For/32434589435.html
Ah yes the phone camera to check the IR LED trick!
Classic!
Ghod this channel rocks
I understand pretty much everything in this video except why I'd want to create an mp3 compilation as described.
Could you programme one of those universal tv/dvd/stereo remote controls to operate the relay board?
If you can figure out the codes it uses then absolutely. Some of them you can even place them back to back and they'll listen to the code from the original remote and you can then assign that to a button. So this is very doable if you've got a fairly decent one.
I got one of those car stereo modules, connected it to my lab supply, gave it 5V and it worked just fine. Then since it's labeled 12V on the ad I gave it 12 and it exploded. Repeatedly. I'm guessing it's made for the really old cars, like Trabants, which really do only supply 6V or so.
Either way, don't try to use them with 12V.
i have made this schematic and pcb board too and 8 channel relay panel and it is working correctly thank you so much... it is really very helpful...
it maybe an xor gate. so you can flip from negative to positive trigger ?
you could use that 8ch relay board for turning on/off the current limiting ballasts when blowing shit up on mains . ch1-50w ch2-50w ch3-50w ch4-100w ch5-100w ch6-200w ch7-200w ch8-200w total 950w lol
I love your videos, makes me feel i understand Electronics :) You sir Are Awesome :) thank you Mr Clive :)
geez Clive, even tho i know diddly squat about electronical stuff & such. Between you, Buzz & Joernone, I might be learning
Can these relays be set so that they come on momentarily while the button is held down?
wow you made my dream explode....
I have been saving up for just one of these for months, everytime I sell something on ebay I get scammed out of everything I have.
thanks for keeping my dream their though.
Hold on, why would the separate power supplies' negatives need to be commoned, when there is an optoisolator?
+bigclivedotcom, you can power those non-opto relay boards for a separate supply just fine. It's just a transistor controlling the relay. So instead of connecting the Vcc of the micro to the Vcc of the relay board just connect the power form a separate supply to Vcc of the relay board. And common ground the supplies and you're done :) No need for those modules that misuse a opto. I mean, seriously, use an opto en then connect the input and output of the opto to the same ground? :/
Hey Clive. These are very interesting. Where can I buy them or what do I need to search for exactly?
One thing I didn't quite get:
If you switch the jumper one one of the relays, can I still control the rest with the RC or does it break that functionality completely?
I'm looking for something like this for a car project.
The other relays still respond to the remote.
pressing the 9 yet again. this is certainly an all on and off function.
If this unit works like others I've seen....
With the power off press S1 button. Immediately press power on. Only one relay at a time can now be active. It has two other settings but Don't remember.
+Tayro Thinkingoutloud I'll have to give that a go.
Hey Clive, I like your videos. As a suggestion, do you mind putting the url to these products you review for us?
I have been using this module since a while for a diy aquarium build and paired it with an IR repeater . Mine module with the original remote has number 9 working as all relays on. So I am not sure if there is any issue with compatibility between the two remotes or something else. I had an issue with one out of 8 relays that after using it for a while it stays always on.
There are probably some of the cheapest relays you can find on those boards. I bought a 4-relay board from Velleman and it ehm, does not work. My brother who is waaaay more into electronics than I am and as a result has way more knowledge than me, has traced the circuit board and he doesn't understand why it doesn't work, he saw me connecting it, connected it himself and he has no idea why it doesn't work.
If you exceed the maximum current at the specified voltage (which I presume is not exactly the specified amount that they print on the casing) or the device that you switch causes a huge inrush spike (let's say a switching mode power supply) or a huge spike at switch off (a transformer) this can fuse the contacts after a while.
Could that mystery chip be an 8-bit shift register on the IR module?
I love these videos, because Clive explores electronics gadgets the way I would have. This one was a bit cringeworthy however; by the way he waves things around before getting to the point.
It was one of a burst of videos I was trying to make before travel. So they lack the amount of research and test that I normally do.
A common problem with these is the battery compartment is under spring tension, and the plastic clips meant to hold the drawer closed are under engineered, meaning the battery get's upchucked back out of the remote after little fiddling. Annoying little things.
Clive, could you show how you would design a system which would disconnect a load in case the MCU got stuck, please? Some sort of fail-safe hardware only method.
I'm always scared to use arduino for controlling bigger loads. Let's say the mcu would send periodic "watchdog" pulses to the mechanism, otherwise it would disconnect.
It does sound like a watchdog timer would be useful to at least reset the processor. I think you can get watchdog modules.
what is the maximum voltage and current rating that bigclive will certify and how can I find that module
+ bigclivedotcom Why do these remotes crap out after only a few hundred presses? And why when cleaned internally with a quick wipe they work again? theres little or no videos showing how they work ;) explanation ?
Ha Ha .. Mr Clive.. watch 3.06 your 1st Remote is also working but without pressing a button. that is a very common problem with this cheaper remote.If you could hack the remote & duplicate the IR codes to another cheap TV remote with better touch pad, the IR relay module will be very popular & long lasting. How did you missed that 6pin chip will be a opto-isolator like PS2622 or PS2621? :D
so in theory a relay going bad can leak the amps of the load contacts to the control contacts and then back to e.g. the Arduino if one doesn't use an opto-isolator ?
kelimike ok I didn't know that
The relay doesn't have to go bad for this (and the way relais are constructed it would have to go VERY bad for it to start leaking). A relay is generally considered "isolation" (check the datasheet for up to which voltages). It is much more likely that dirt or moisture on the PCB will cause problems. That isn't really changed by using opto isolators, but by better board layout.
The reason for optoisolators especially in these control applications is to isolate the "grounds". Ideally your GND would be the same potential everywhere. But it isn't that easy in reality. If you have your Arduino with its power supply in one room and the relay board with another power supply in another room, most likely on another circuit from the breaker box, connected with several meters of signal wire, it is very likely that your GNDs are not the same. Without isolation in bad cases that can mean that you have large currents running down your "GND" or signal wires, frying electronics or tripping RCDs. In less bad cases it may shift the signal (logic levels) enough so the receiver doesn't recognize them.
I'm a little concerned for the state of the arcades on the Isle of Man ;)
Is it possible to de solder the sensor and extend it on wire, or would this influence the resistance of the IR sensor?
You could extend it a short distance with ordinary wire and a longer distance with a screened pair of wires where the screen was connected to the 0V connections .
Thank you
Is there any way to connect this to off-road light switch in a truck? Rather not have to see the remote
I always learn something while enjoying your videos. Thanks Clive!
Clive a interesting thing I found out! if you have a answer please. my friend has a IPhone and it does not see a infrared remote from the back camera but does see it from the front facing camera? I have never seen a CCD not see infrared and make it visible! a reason would be great.
Thank you. Interesting answer! And much easier to understand then what i found on the net thanks
Hey Clive fancy doing a review on the fake Imax battery charger? It's called an Imax B6AC. Cheers!
If you're keen look at Julian Ilett's YT site, he did a tear down/review on a suspect iMax a while back.
Hey Clive. Great video as usual. Can you tell me if the chip can be 're programmed? Cheers
If it's flash based you could erase and program it from scratch, but that might be a lot of work. Note that the all relays resetting thing may have been a glitch on that unit or worse, maybe a current threshold on my power supply resetting the processor.
what is the name of that little module that you brought out that was for audio? i want to check one out! thanks :D
r.ebay.com/n4jVO7
that just took me to ebay. not to a listing for anything...
So could you trigger these relays with the drop in voltage when a phone is taken off the hook? I am looking to turn on a lamp whenever the phone line is in use and have it turn off again when the phone hangs up.
You mean like tapping the phone lines? Maybe, but in most countries it's illegal to hook up unlicensed devices to phone lines. Maybe you could put a magnet in the handset and use a reed switch to trigger the relay module.
I can't believe how common those Songle relays are on Chinese equipment, it's almost like they are the only mainstream Chinese relay provider
Songle brand dongles would have an incredibly catchy name
It would make me wonder what the Sildo company manufactures.
what do i have to look for when im searching the "USB Car Audio"-thingi ?
I'm getting into PLCs. Any career advice?
Try and get an apprenticeship with a control systems company. Or for more specialist applications consider a career as an elevator mechanic?
Just Awesome!
Thank you so much.
Very Descriptive and Academic.
I have a request please.
Would you be kind and make a tutorial video on how to connect an AC well water pump to a relay?
If you could also advise on the correct pump start relay spec to purchase please.
I plan to control my pump for the house from my cell phone using my Arduino UNO and a WiFi sheild.
AC Well Pump Specs (India):
-> 240 V
-> 50 Hz
-> 1.5 HP
-> 6.6 A
-> 2800 rev/min
-> HEAD: 30 Feet
If there is anything else you would need to know, kindly let me know.
Eagerly awaiting your reply.
Thanks & Best regards,
Philip
The relay will melt, 6 Amps is quite alot.Get a industrial grade Solis state relay that's rated for 20 Amps.Connect ground of Arduino to SSR (Solid State Relay) ground.Use Pin13 for vcc (+ on the SSR).Use a simple code from the wifi shield and done! Get a weatherproof/waterproof case for the Arduino and SSR.
+Alex MC Solid State Relay* Good luck with that!
Im hooked on your videos, very interesting! Thank you and keep up the good work
Should have tried putting some magic spit on the chip with the number scrubbed off.
why would they scrub the number off?
I want to use TV remote and Button for control Relay, We can use two ways TV remote or button but i'm not sure about code if you understand help me please!!!thanks.
Just received one of those relays two days ago so good to know.
DO you think the contacts will hold up to the 10 amps their rated at ?
Thanks for the info !
those are probably Chinese Amps
from Twing Twang no doubt!
+Maico Good point !
I shall find out just what they CAN take ! ( that is when my new power supply is delivered )
I'd not trust them at full current. Half rated current at most.
+bigclivedotcom
Thanks, have been testing for a few hours now and so far : 12 volt-5amps for one hour, 12 volt - 7amps for one hour and then I went to 10 amps.... no smoke. Took the top off to see the contacts and they look ok...... for now! I think they'll be fine for what I need.
Have some more on the way and think I'll push one to see just what they can take ! 😈 Yeah, I keep a fire extinguisher handy !
Will it interference with normal rc5 remote control or it has other coding?
I wonder if chips get manufactured with the wrong numbers on them and instead of discarding them they scratch the numbers of sell them at a discount.
I did get once a few chips marked as LM311 from eBay. After playing around with them, I discovered they're really a dual op amps, bummer :)
I don't think so. You would not believe how many chips get faked (Brand Logo + Partnumber, but a "compatible" die inside). The most famous case was FDTI with their USB-Chip sets.
In other cases, you get real parts, which for some "odd" reason already contain data. Scratching the number off is just to make reverse engineering harder "the cheap way". (The more expensive way is, to order chips in bulk with custom printing - even the big semiconduter companies offer that service, when the quantity fits)
Enjoyed watching the video, thanks for sharing... got a better understanding of relays
Is there a version with bluetooth?
This is the second video that Clive has produced that I haven't got a clue to what he is talking about. Maybe this channel isn't for me?
oh sometimes he reviews more simple stuff, i know i will never need a 10 way remote relay thingy either.
+jusb1066 oh, I just think that if he could give a quick background to where these fit, and to what purpose they are. That would be of great help!
if electronics interests you you'd better stay along then you might learn something in the end :) Still learning things myself. A Relay is an electronically operated switch. Just like the wall switches in your house but instead of being pushed by a human hand they're pushed/pulled by an electromagnet that only requires a small current to flip the switch.
+Maico yes, I know. But where does these go? Usage? To turn the lights on in your living room? I thought light switches did that easier?
TheRobertSt the main usage is that an artifical brain (microcontroller) is able through the relay to switch on/off for instance heavy machinery (that runs on its own high voltage circuit). It does this by applying the required small current to turn on the electromagnet in the relay that flips a switch inside the relay. A good example is an elevator. It uses alot of relays and also has a microcontroller (PLC) to operate them
hi great videos. but i need help. im trying to build a stepper motor driver and i require a te555-1 chip. which i cant find.can i use a ne555? please help regards casemodder
i have installed 2 of those small mp3 units in my computer external speakers and 1 old boom box
they look interesting, any ideas what keywords to search for to find them?
7-12V Handsfree Bluetooth MP3 Decoder Board With Bluetooth Module+FM (bangood)
isn't the problem with powering the relays occurring when they are switched off? To me the Problem with the Supply is the Inductive spike when they turn off (especially because the inductive effect of the relays would PREVENT the current from rising too quickly)
The inductive spike has transistor destroying risks. The turn on current has the potential to pull the power supply too low for the microcontroller to keep running.
why do they scrub the numbers of the chips?
Why does it handle much less volts in DC than AC?
+fabts4 DC current is harder to break than AC current.
bigclivedotcom Alright. This has to do with the electric arc that occurs when opening the relay?
Could one concludes that you can go beyond 30VDC with a low current load?
Keep up the great videos! They're very informative!
as Flo Capp said "A thick ear & five days silence"
Do you have a url for that mp3 thingy ?
Why do they scrub off the numbers of these chips?
So you won't know what they are (and therefore can't make a bunch of boards yourself)
Which is the integrated circuit on IR BORARD ?
The number has been scraped off.
Has it been scrubbed off well? Usually when you apply some saliva it becomes visible.
What's the audio player? Does it handle any lossless formats?
It's a cheap eBay MPO3 module. I doubt it would handle any more specialist formats.
No. I have one in my homemade audio amp and it plays .mp3 and .wav. Doesn't play .flac or something like that. But the audio quality is quite nice for the cheap stuff it is.
Ah. So what would be a slightly more up market version of that in. Similar size? Only more self contained than basically a front panel.
There really is no market in the retail sector for anything lossless. Aftermarket car radios had support it a few years back, but they limited them to non-high-rez bit depths and sample rates. Anything portable that will play lossless formats like FLAC is going to some expensive thing with magical pixie DACs made for audiophools. iPods play lossless, if you're willing to encode to ALAC. Find a classic one and put a modern SSD in it. Outside the home, there is zero point to lossless. Environments are too noisy to merit anything over medium bit rate lossy encoding.
Why do some manufacturers scrub chip names off? Seems a needless effort?
great tips clive, thanks!
The remote is built the same way of the small tv remote at 1$. I bought 1, died a few days later, bought an other one, didnt work.
got a link to that 8 relay module?
This looks like the same unit.
www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Multi-function-Infrared-Remote-Control-8-Channel-Relay-Module-Bidirectional-/252216092048?hash=item3ab9402590:g:BXsAAOSw1S9WclxV
Beware! One of the "features" is: "output leads to a normally
open and normally closed two electric shock". XD
+Sootikins what do you mean
It's the weird instructions that come with it have a mis-translation that says "electric shock".
There are also solid state relay modules available for similar prices: de.aliexpress.com/item/J34-Free-Shipping-5V-8-Channel-Low-Level-Trigger-Solid-State-Relay-Module-with-Fuse-For/32434589435.html
Could something like this be used to control 240v Lights?
I'm not confident in these small relays for mains use, but you could drive a larger relay with them.
Thanks, I am wanting to have fairground style lighting with different effects controlled by a raspberry pi
Why do some people scrub the numbers off of the chips?
Harder to reverse engineer, ashamed of the brand idk
Something dangerous here on those relay modules the solder pads underneath are connected to connection clamps, some arduino projects suggest switching mains with these relays. !! Be careful touching the back of the board, and don't sit it on a conductor...
Also some models have way too small clearance between mains and electronics. One reason is the preference for "sugar cube" relays with the contact center pin next to the coil pins.
Most phones these days have IR filters.
Use 000.mp3~999.mp3 for sequential play.
Relays hmm I'll watch later ...
Check ebay for universal remote (sorted by cheapest: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sop=15&_oac=1&_nkw=universal+remote&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1). It is something that seems to be just an IR led attached to a 3.5mm plug. You can then use it with zazaremote app from play store to control virtually anything with an IR receiver (at least in theory - it has 3.8/5 rating with a million users). Both the app and IR plugs are made in China.
Can we connect DC motor with it
How about comparing those to the native UK units from robot elec? ( robot-electronics.co.uk ). We had (and still have) a couple of them in our company, and man, they are like working forever (like 5-7 years of continuous operation) :D (not infrared though)
I beg your pardon, a sudden what spike? :')
Pretty cool Dude!