Great video. Appreciate the math breakdown. A few points of consideration. If you have access to a pick a brick wall at Lego then the 4x4 plates are more economical. With the new boxes you can get nearly 200 if you stack. That’s about 10 cents a brick. Also the big plates are great for putting modulars on but may not be best for landscaping. For what it’s worth.
Got a box full of 4x4 plates off the PAB today. Was able to fit in 214 with room left over for about 70 2x4 plates and a few 1x4/1x2 plates. The cost (tax included) worked out to $.004 per stud, or $.064 per 4x4 plate, or $4.10 per MILS plate's worth. I'm going to try to find a better way to fill the box though because I did straight stacks and they're a nightmare to separate.
I think the dividing line may end up being, are you building a Mils base for a single set, or are you doing a whole bunch? If you're building a base without any parts on hand for a single set/plate, to start yourself off, or to add a single one to the set, I think Tim's calcs may end up being the best bet. If you're setting up a whole table, PAB, or BrickLink will be your best bet assuming Shipping is within reason (a rare occurrence)
This video single handedly helped me make a Mils plate. I don’t have room to build a whole city yet but I wanted to go ahead and put all of my expensive Lego builds on Mils plates so I could eventually connect them together.
Thank you ! Merci 😊 I'm just starting construction for a Lego city, since my kid is 2 now, I'm starting slowly and carefully getting into making a city ! Thank you very much !
For those how want to save even more Money. Alternative bricks, or in that Case plates can save even more Money. But that IS offen a Philosophic question 😉
Honestly I don't know why everyone doesn't just use the after market fake Lego pieces and save a fortune. Yeah they are not "real" Lego but it's just to build a mils base. Then build your Lego set on top. Makes way more sense.
yeah, the bottom of my mils plates are filled with all kinds of things. Real lego, megabloks, chinese flego, 2x2, 1x2, and even stacked 2x2 plates. Who cares about the lego logo on the stud when it's all hidden underneath and works just the same?
Yeah, I needed a load of baseplates to set up my lego animal crossing town. For a single 32x32 official plate is £8. Whereas I got 8 fake plates that were 16x32 for only £10. So almost 4x cheaper than official lego baseplates
I haven't used Mills much yet, but I went for the most sturdy version of the 2x2 brick build, with even extra support in the form of 1 more 2x2 brick in the middle to support each large plate. Sometimes I use 2x3 bricks, just because I have them and I happen to have found a PaB wall in a non-official lego store have these 1x4 technic bricks with pin connectors, so that saved a ton of money. In the end it is a sturdy option if you want to have builds that you can easily move, but unless you are building something truly large like a city or massive diorama you can perfectly go without and save the money.
This is a question I've had for awhile, but I never bothered to do the math, so props to you! Also, I haven't confirmed this, but it seems that for the most part, the price per stud gets cheaper as the piece gets bigger. Like getting two 1x4s would cost $0.32, but one 1x8 would cost $0.29. I assume this is true for plates and other element types as well. Cool video!
This is a very good video. I was doing the expensive way the whole time. BUT, that way is still better if you want to terrain and landscaping that has many different levels. The way you are showing is 100% better for buildings.
For a baseplate that's light yet sturdy, you could try arches. Or specifically "brick with bow" as they call the small ones. Also roof and inverted roof pieces. I'm not going to have a lot of baseplates so I'm going to have the edges of mine be more decorated, and maybe be fancy with the inside and use arches or whatever else will be both sturdy and lightweight. Making inverse pyramids with plates could also work.
"Why do I ever need to learn math, it's so useless in the real world" So you know you can save money by buying 4 16x16 LEGO plates for $2.60 each instead of 62 4x4s for $0.20 each!
Great video gave me the idea to look through my Lego collection to see if I had something to use or something similar . I did it is the base plates for the Lego art sets which is element 65803 Brick Special 16 x 16 x 1 1/3 with Pinholes
I think it depends a lot on where you buy your bricks. Everyone should do the math if they plan on using mils plates. Personally I still prefer the old road plates and I will be continuing to use those mainly because I can't justify the money and effort spent just to raise everything by one brick. But I understand why people do it, it's just not worth it for me.
Only downside I can think of to using the much larger plates, is it limits your ability to build inset ponds/etc, as you'd need to replace with some smaller plates anyway, however just keeping a couple dozen in storage for whenever you want to do that type of terrain/decorations, other than that v useful info, thank you!
Yes, but that’s situational. If you know that’s something you want to do, you can alter the setup for those specific modules. As long as your pin connectors line up in the corners, you’re good to go.
On Bricklink typically, white, black or grey. What ever is pretty common. On Lego.com it doesn’t matter as much it’s because the price per piece is about the same for every color on there.
solid argument. I personally prefer to use larger 4x2 bricks on the joins for larger plates when I want rigidity, but I suspect that's not an uncommon insight 😅
I suspect that the way you build some would depend on their ultimate usage. If you are doing lighting on interiors or a custom flooring on the same you would need to use the more traditional MILS plate designs. In any case, I greatly appreciate your analysis of the options. 😊
Great vid - it would be helpful if you added ALL parts needed to the spreadsheet - baseplate, the 1x1 studs and the technic sticks + connector pins... just saying :)
Color is a factor. Building white mold plates for a winter village. Can’t touch 16x16 in white in any decent quantity for less than 7 bucks a plate on brinklink but can get 4x4 for 9 cents a piece.
Could you please make another video about road MILS as well? Seems making road MILS cost tonnes more. So traditional way and some other recommendations from you would be great
The base problem is: Just using genuine Lego for your MOCs when there is so many legit alternatives out there by now. The only thing that does set Lego apart still from those other brands would be their mini figure (which is a huge pain) and some more recent brick design. Anything else can be sourced cheaper elsewhere by now with in part even better brick quality if you want to do your own builds.
This. While purism was understandable back in the day when off-brand was always inferior, we now live in an age where off-brand bricks are usually at 90% the same quality or better. For something like MILS you don't even need to worry about colour-matching either.
I did the calculations, and where I live it's cheaper to use 4x4. Plus I managed to buy a chunk of 2x4 cheaply, and I like the flexibility of 4x4 for landscaping. My point being that everyone should do their own maths.
Great video! I’m new to mils plates and I wanted to do the 16x16 plates, but everyone else seems to use small plates and I was worried I was doing to wrong
The reason you use the smaller 4x4 plates is so you can more easily do landscapes. You can add a creek/river or go up higher with some hills. If you are doing modulars, then of course the big 16x16 plates are the most economical. Or, if you have a bricks and minifgs near you, they sell full 32x32 plates for real cheap (though they aren't official lego).
If you want to add lighting or power functions it's easier to make a small hole to run cables under the 4x4. I prefer the 8x8 though because they're often in the PAB wall, you can get the grill one which can be useful sometimes (weight and effects), (+ they also work for Hogwarts style modulars). Then if I need holes I replace an 8x8 with four 4x4s.
@@jamesalphonse1099 I could say Keeppley, they also sell only bricks just like Lego Classics, Sembo Block is great too but I haven't heard if they sell only bricks
Thanks for this video. Would MILS allow me to hide light wiring/expansion board , using a remote to control the lighting? Love the lighting but not a mess of wires, etc, showing and want a way to solve my issue. Thank you for your advice!
The whole point of MILS is the stability of it all AND being able to remove any piece to create layers. Using the 16x16 may be cheaper but it's not as strong as the 4x4 plates. I will just stick with those.
Have you considered theb16x16x1&1/3 (so 4 plates high) art pieces? don't know how much these cost in the US but on Europe lego sells them for 3.5€ aproximately (so about 14€ per baseplate, solid AF and you only have to use 4 pieces lol)
I was thinking the same thing. Those seem to be really close, pricewise. The spreadsheet here is missing the 8 1x2 technic parts (32000) for $0.09 each, but after adding these, the homemade assemblies are $13.89. The black art plates (65803) are $3.38 each plus the 8 technic plugs needed ($0.06 each), for a total of $14. (So, less than a 1% price difference). OTOH, you would probably need to add some more to help the art plates with side to side force.
I had everything but the hole lego I guess I have order them because my are bigger them yiur they 10 and I think what looking on yiur is 4 I need holes
i've tried those and they aren't that great. The clutch was ridiculous and would barely connect with bricks (i.e. too much clutch). I was afraid i was going to break them they were that bad. Now, that being said, I have other off brand plates from China that were great and were on par with official Lego.
not recommended for MILS, if you use them, it will stress the MILS plate and cause it to curl, just like the 16x16 technic mosaic art bricks do. You need to use a bunch of small plates like 4x4 plates because of the stress factor and the more you use the flatter it remains.
I'm not your opinion. My first MILS were the classic 64 4x4-plates with 2x2-bricks underneath. Then I found 16x16-plates and realized how much money I could save. But soon I got disappointed because with the 4 16x16 plates you're not nearly getting as solid MILS as with the 64 4x4-plates - even when using the same amount of 2x2-bricks underneath. So you can build other, cheaper plates than MILS plates. But I wouldn't call them MILS-plates, as they are not as good as the original. Call them "MILS-compatible" if you will.
Ill be honest Id rather use roblox instead of lego because unlike lego roblox studio parts are free and its so much easier than spending hundreds of thousands of dollars on actual lego bricks
Alot of misinformation here first, it's not MILLS it's MILS second, you don't have to remove a modular from it's included baseplate for it to work with a MILS plate, it sits on top just fine and at the same height too. Most LUGs and AFOLs do it this way too so they have a higher curb than the roads third, using 16x16 plates is not recommended because they warp the MILS plate (curling). 4x4 plates are the best option because it not only reinforces the structure, but you can literally peel off the 32x32 baseplate and it will stay together. so it's an easy transfer to another baseplate or if you need to change out some parts with other colors, it's easier this method. fourth, having the gaps on the sides where it connects to the technic brick is a bad idea, you lose structural integrity this way and then you have to use 16x16 baseplates which cause a MILS to curl and it limits your capability to make streams, lava, etc. Your side bricks will come apart when you try to connect your technic bricks with the pins to another MILS because your forcing that part to take all the stress rather than evenly distributing the stress of those parts across the entire edge. You definitely don't have the IQ to be talking about this as advice if you're not considering what you are giving up vs how much you are paying. MILS wasn't meant to be cost effective, it was meant to be display effective, durable, easy storage and transport. If you want a cost effective way just use the 32x32 baseplate without the MILS. What you're recommending isn't a MILS plate with that kind of loss in structural integrity.
That was very insightful! Thank you for all that information, I love learning more about this topic that I am new to. Also thanks for pointing out the flaw in my title, that was a mistake on my part.
Great video. Appreciate the math breakdown. A few points of consideration. If you have access to a pick a brick wall at Lego then the 4x4 plates are more economical. With the new boxes you can get nearly 200 if you stack. That’s about 10 cents a brick. Also the big plates are great for putting modulars on but may not be best for landscaping. For what it’s worth.
I do agree with getting the pieces on the PAB wall is most optimal. I should have mentioned it in the video
Got a box full of 4x4 plates off the PAB today. Was able to fit in 214 with room left over for about 70 2x4 plates and a few 1x4/1x2 plates. The cost (tax included) worked out to $.004 per stud, or $.064 per 4x4 plate, or $4.10 per MILS plate's worth. I'm going to try to find a better way to fill the box though because I did straight stacks and they're a nightmare to separate.
@@Maxwellwhynoti use 2 brickseperators for this, aslong the stack is big its not very bad, only te last few are anoying.
I think the dividing line may end up being, are you building a Mils base for a single set, or are you doing a whole bunch?
If you're building a base without any parts on hand for a single set/plate, to start yourself off, or to add a single one to the set, I think Tim's calcs may end up being the best bet.
If you're setting up a whole table, PAB, or BrickLink will be your best bet assuming Shipping is within reason (a rare occurrence)
If youhave a pick a brick wall within a good driving distant.
ACTUALLY the most useful video for me in a long time, i plan to go MILS as well. Thanks dude!
I appreciate putting different MILS theories into practice for actual testing. Science!
This video single handedly helped me make a Mils plate. I don’t have room to build a whole city yet but I wanted to go ahead and put all of my expensive Lego builds on Mils plates so I could eventually connect them together.
That’s how I started 😊
I’ve been looking for a more price effective MILS solution forever! This is perfect!
Glad I could help!
This is not there's a better one
@@fromis.9 Link?
Nice video showing the cost and reducing the use of 2x2’ in the middle
Amazing video, clearly explained and very helpful. Thank u so much. Made my 1st ever mils using Ur final style and love it.
I’m happy to hear that!
Also, the 16x16 is multi purpose. The Twin Lug Micropolis standard is built on a 16x16 module size.
Thank you !
Merci 😊
I'm just starting construction for a Lego city, since my kid is 2 now, I'm starting slowly and carefully getting into making a city !
Thank you very much !
I have tons of random bricks from goodwill bulk boxes and really appreciate how many options for building mils plate are included. Thanks bud!
thank you, very helpful
Thank you for doing the spread sheet to open peoples eyes to the cost effective way of doing these mils plates
Glad it was helpful!
Mils plate is a great way to get rid of any megablox that might have ended up in your collection lol
Haha yeah it’s a perfect place to hide the trashy brick
For those how want to save even more Money. Alternative bricks, or in that Case plates can save even more Money. But that IS offen a Philosophic question 😉
Thank you for this video! Super helpful, I really appreciate the time you put into researching this.
Honestly I don't know why everyone doesn't just use the after market fake Lego pieces and save a fortune. Yeah they are not "real" Lego but it's just to build a mils base. Then build your Lego set on top. Makes way more sense.
Agreed.
yeah, the bottom of my mils plates are filled with all kinds of things. Real lego, megabloks, chinese flego, 2x2, 1x2, and even stacked 2x2 plates. Who cares about the lego logo on the stud when it's all hidden underneath and works just the same?
Video was so informative!!! Especially with multiple alternatives and spreadsheet breakout. Thank you!!!!
Yeah, I needed a load of baseplates to set up my lego animal crossing town. For a single 32x32 official plate is £8. Whereas I got 8 fake plates that were 16x32 for only £10. So almost 4x cheaper than official lego baseplates
Yeah it ruins other bricks tho
Great presentation. Very thorough and informative! Thank you!
I haven't used Mills much yet, but I went for the most sturdy version of the 2x2 brick build, with even extra support in the form of 1 more 2x2 brick in the middle to support each large plate. Sometimes I use 2x3 bricks, just because I have them and I happen to have found a PaB wall in a non-official lego store have these 1x4 technic bricks with pin connectors, so that saved a ton of money.
In the end it is a sturdy option if you want to have builds that you can easily move, but unless you are building something truly large like a city or massive diorama you can perfectly go without and save the money.
This is a question I've had for awhile, but I never bothered to do the math, so props to you!
Also, I haven't confirmed this, but it seems that for the most part, the price per stud gets cheaper as the piece gets bigger. Like getting two 1x4s would cost $0.32, but one 1x8 would cost $0.29. I assume this is true for plates and other element types as well.
Cool video!
It’s kinda interesting, cause sometimes it works that easy and others not. I might update the spreadsheet with the info
@@BuilderTim It might just come down to the mass. There's more plastic in two 2x2s than one 2x4 (at least I assume so because of the sides).
This is great! Thanks for the breakdown.
Appreciate the price breakdown, I’m going to give the 16x16 plates a try!
Thank you, the perfect video at the perfect time. Great stuff. Subscribed 👍👍
Hi, nice video. You are right, 16x16 plates are the best option. Congrats from MILS creator
yo that spreadsheet is outstanding, thank you for sharing it
Great video! Very well researched and edited :)
Thanks a ton!
This is a very good video. I was doing the expensive way the whole time. BUT, that way is still better if you want to terrain and landscaping that has many different levels. The way you are showing is 100% better for buildings.
Hey, thank you a lot for the video. I have to do a couple of those for toy photography. Have a great evening.
I only use the 16x16 plates from the pictures/mosaic sets. The cost per piece are 3.38€, means 4x 3.38€ = 13.52€.
That’s a good idea
Great idea!
Great video! I really appreciate the math breakdown. Thanks to your video, I just purchased enough pieces to do MILS on all 5 of my modular buildings!
Thank you. That’s going to be a fun project
For a baseplate that's light yet sturdy, you could try arches. Or specifically "brick with bow" as they call the small ones. Also roof and inverted roof pieces. I'm not going to have a lot of baseplates so I'm going to have the edges of mine be more decorated, and maybe be fancy with the inside and use arches or whatever else will be both sturdy and lightweight. Making inverse pyramids with plates could also work.
"Why do I ever need to learn math, it's so useless in the real world"
So you know you can save money by buying 4 16x16 LEGO plates for $2.60 each instead of 62 4x4s for $0.20 each!
Great video gave me the idea to look through my Lego collection to see if I had something to use or something similar . I did it is the base plates for the Lego art sets which is element 65803 Brick Special 16 x 16 x 1 1/3 with Pinholes
Quick tip: you can buy 4x6 roof bricks for 1 cent each
I saw your comment on your video on how to make Lego Mills and you said you were going to make a cost-effective way so it brought me here thank you
I’m glad to hear that
I think it depends a lot on where you buy your bricks. Everyone should do the math if they plan on using mils plates. Personally I still prefer the old road plates and I will be continuing to use those mainly because I can't justify the money and effort spent just to raise everything by one brick. But I understand why people do it, it's just not worth it for me.
Cheapest way I found is by getting all the parts off the pab wall and filling the gaps in the cup(or box) with other parts
Only downside I can think of to using the much larger plates, is it limits your ability to build inset ponds/etc, as you'd need to replace with some smaller plates anyway, however just keeping a couple dozen in storage for whenever you want to do that type of terrain/decorations, other than that v useful info, thank you!
That is a good point. I hope the spreadsheet I made helps with picking other pice effective pieces.
you're right, and we use small plates to prevent curling.
Yes, but that’s situational. If you know that’s something you want to do, you can alter the setup for those specific modules. As long as your pin connectors line up in the corners, you’re good to go.
Thanks, very useful, I liked the demonstration of strength as well! Did you try to use Technic Bricks 16x16 from art sets?
Great video, thank you!
you’re awesome tim, thank you for this
What are the cheapest colors for all the pieces?
On Bricklink typically, white, black or grey. What ever is pretty common. On Lego.com it doesn’t matter as much it’s because the price per piece is about the same for every color on there.
I’m just getting into city building. Mils plate is the way to go. I was a builder as a kid, technic pins not required
Thank you for this, now can start doing this with my stuff
Solid video! Thanks
If you would put the four corner pieces in the inner ring one stud closer the outer corner wouldn't it become much stronger?
What if I just filled in a bunch of bricks? I got a bunch of used bricks in bad conditions laying around.
solid argument.
I personally prefer to use larger 4x2 bricks on the joins for larger plates when I want rigidity, but I suspect that's not an uncommon insight 😅
Fantastic video, thank you so much. The "crash test" was very helpful! Can I ask you about the MOC that we see on the left of the Medieval Blacksmith?
I suspect that the way you build some would depend on their ultimate usage. If you are doing lighting on interiors or a custom flooring on the same you would need to use the more traditional MILS plate designs.
In any case, I greatly appreciate your analysis of the options. 😊
I've always wondered! Happy to have the answer before I get heavy into MILS!
Too bad the big ones aren't best sellers in Light and Dark Bluish Gray. 😕
I agree
You forgot to link the connect bricks in the corners. Nice video, thanks!
Thank you, I've updated it now.
Great vid - it would be helpful if you added ALL parts needed to the spreadsheet - baseplate, the 1x1 studs and the technic sticks + connector pins... just saying :)
Great to know, thank you
Color is a factor. Building white mold plates for a winter village. Can’t touch 16x16 in white in any decent quantity for less than 7 bucks a plate on brinklink but can get 4x4 for 9 cents a piece.
Great video. What are those storage compartments in the background?
Akro mils drawers
@@BuilderTim Thank you! Do they stack pretty well?
@@JAYMATIKyeah they do
@@JAYMATIK when you stack three high id recommend screwing it to the wall
Excellent video ❤️
Could you please make another video about road MILS as well? Seems making road MILS cost tonnes more. So traditional way and some other recommendations from you would be great
The base problem is: Just using genuine Lego for your MOCs when there is so many legit alternatives out there by now. The only thing that does set Lego apart still from those other brands would be their mini figure (which is a huge pain) and some more recent brick design. Anything else can be sourced cheaper elsewhere by now with in part even better brick quality if you want to do your own builds.
This. While purism was understandable back in the day when off-brand was always inferior, we now live in an age where off-brand bricks are usually at 90% the same quality or better. For something like MILS you don't even need to worry about colour-matching either.
I agree. Also Bluebrixx is bringing out their own line of these things now
I did the calculations, and where I live it's cheaper to use 4x4. Plus I managed to buy a chunk of 2x4 cheaply, and I like the flexibility of 4x4 for landscaping. My point being that everyone should do their own maths.
63805 is what I use 2 70 a piece and it's 16 by 16 with technic holes in the corners just pop 4 down and done
Great video! I’m new to mils plates and I wanted to do the 16x16 plates, but everyone else seems to use small plates and I was worried I was doing to wrong
Glad it was helpful!
The reason you use the smaller 4x4 plates is so you can more easily do landscapes. You can add a creek/river or go up higher with some hills. If you are doing modulars, then of course the big 16x16 plates are the most economical. Or, if you have a bricks and minifgs near you, they sell full 32x32 plates for real cheap (though they aren't official lego).
If you want to add lighting or power functions it's easier to make a small hole to run cables under the 4x4. I prefer the 8x8 though because they're often in the PAB wall, you can get the grill one which can be useful sometimes (weight and effects), (+ they also work for Hogwarts style modulars). Then if I need holes I replace an 8x8 with four 4x4s.
A very informative video. Thanks.
Have you done this for 48x32, which would be for modulars like Assembly Square and the Natural History Museum?
I have done it for those buildings. I just make sure the pin connectors line up with the 32 by 32 ones
Pin connector bricks not needed is wind going blow modulars apart?
It’s not, it can just make sure things stay lined up. Especially when you have tons of builds
Ok, the elephant in the room: if you want to be cost-effective, you have to use alternative brick brands. Easy as this, the cost is divided by 3 to 5.
What brands do you recommend for that?
@@jamesalphonse1099 I could say Keeppley, they also sell only bricks just like Lego Classics, Sembo Block is great too but I haven't heard if they sell only bricks
Newbie question. :-) why not just use a full 32x32 top and bottom?
As far as I know, Lego company doesn’t make any official 32 plates that can be used on top
do you not like the 1 high 16x16 technic plates? then you do not have the price of base plates at all? and just need pins as required.
That’s a good idea, I should should check how price effective that is
Thanks for this video. Would MILS allow me to hide light wiring/expansion board , using a remote to control the lighting? Love the lighting but not a mess of wires, etc, showing and want a way to solve my issue. Thank you for your advice!
What about using 1x1s
Quality original content
I saw the notification and immediately clicked. Today is a good day now
The whole point of MILS is the stability of it all AND being able to remove any piece to create layers. Using the 16x16 may be cheaper but it's not as strong as the 4x4 plates. I will just stick with those.
Can you not just put another 32x32 on top instead of the 16x16
The biggest lego makes is 16x16
How much are the 32x32 base plates
$5-8
Have you considered theb16x16x1&1/3 (so 4 plates high) art pieces? don't know how much these cost in the US but on Europe lego sells them for 3.5€ aproximately (so about 14€ per baseplate, solid AF and you only have to use 4 pieces lol)
I was thinking the same thing. Those seem to be really close, pricewise.
The spreadsheet here is missing the 8 1x2 technic parts (32000) for $0.09 each, but after adding these, the homemade assemblies are $13.89.
The black art plates (65803) are $3.38 each plus the 8 technic plugs needed ($0.06 each), for a total of $14. (So, less than a 1% price difference).
OTOH, you would probably need to add some more to help the art plates with side to side force.
I had everything but the hole lego I guess I have order them because my are bigger them yiur they 10 and I think what looking on yiur is 4 I need holes
I've been doing my mils like this day one I must be a genius 😆
Why wouldnt you just buy 32x32 for top and bottom??
The bottom is a different kind of brick. The type the top uses doesn’t exist in 32x32
how much would 1 32x32 cost?
I find them on Amazon for around $5
Wait $2.5 for this tiny piece? Wow I'm glad I purchased Minecraft 10 years ago instead of purchasing more legos
"Pin connector that has 1 hole"?
I'm pretty sure they're just called 1x2 technic bricks...
you are right
Go to your local dollar tree and look for plates
i've tried those and they aren't that great. The clutch was ridiculous and would barely connect with bricks (i.e. too much clutch). I was afraid i was going to break them they were that bad. Now, that being said, I have other off brand plates from China that were great and were on par with official Lego.
@@wesandell same. I agree. But for quick and cheap. Them dollar tree brands get a 4/10 😄
Damn Lego is cheap in America 😢 I pay around $8 bucks for those plates in Europe
How about not buying that overpriced LEGO stuff? By now alternatives are cheaper and better.
Only thing I'll buy knock offs of is technic. I hate finding mega blocks and such in my giant bins
Where's the sound?
Imagine spending hundrets upon hundrets of €/$ to recognize that you have to buy more just to ensure a basic “function”.
I didn’t even know there were 16x16 plates 😂
not recommended for MILS, if you use them, it will stress the MILS plate and cause it to curl, just like the 16x16 technic mosaic art bricks do. You need to use a bunch of small plates like 4x4 plates because of the stress factor and the more you use the flatter it remains.
@@NCXDesignscurl??
The Most Price Effective Way use: non original brick :D
Great video thanks from a beginner working with mill plates. 😁
There is a more inexpensive way..use other vendors ;)
The cheapest solution is using 1pcs 32x32...... and sometimes you can get it with 50% discount....
To late
step 1 dont
I'm not your opinion. My first MILS were the classic 64 4x4-plates with 2x2-bricks underneath. Then I found 16x16-plates and realized how much money I could save. But soon I got disappointed because with the 4 16x16 plates you're not nearly getting as solid MILS as with the 64 4x4-plates - even when using the same amount of 2x2-bricks underneath.
So you can build other, cheaper plates than MILS plates. But I wouldn't call them MILS-plates, as they are not as good as the original. Call them "MILS-compatible" if you will.
That is fair
@@BuilderTim So's your answer!
bricklink new pieces will still be cheaper
This is fair. I do like the free shipping on LEGO.com
Ill be honest Id rather use roblox instead of lego because unlike lego roblox studio parts are free and its so much easier than spending hundreds of thousands of dollars on actual lego bricks
yes but the MOST price effective mils plates are chinese offbrand lego plates. you dont see them anyways so just use real lego at the top!
Alot of misinformation here
first, it's not MILLS it's MILS
second, you don't have to remove a modular from it's included baseplate for it to work with a MILS plate, it sits on top just fine and at the same height too. Most LUGs and AFOLs do it this way too so they have a higher curb than the roads
third, using 16x16 plates is not recommended because they warp the MILS plate (curling). 4x4 plates are the best option because it not only reinforces the structure, but you can literally peel off the 32x32 baseplate and it will stay together. so it's an easy transfer to another baseplate or if you need to change out some parts with other colors, it's easier this method.
fourth, having the gaps on the sides where it connects to the technic brick is a bad idea, you lose structural integrity this way and then you have to use 16x16 baseplates which cause a MILS to curl and it limits your capability to make streams, lava, etc. Your side bricks will come apart when you try to connect your technic bricks with the pins to another MILS because your forcing that part to take all the stress rather than evenly distributing the stress of those parts across the entire edge.
You definitely don't have the IQ to be talking about this as advice if you're not considering what you are giving up vs how much you are paying.
MILS wasn't meant to be cost effective, it was meant to be display effective, durable, easy storage and transport.
If you want a cost effective way just use the 32x32 baseplate without the MILS. What you're recommending isn't a MILS plate with that kind of loss in structural integrity.
That was very insightful! Thank you for all that information, I love learning more about this topic that I am new to. Also thanks for pointing out the flaw in my title, that was a mistake on my part.
@@BuilderTimlol good answer to someone who just called you stupid