How to Remove a Rear AC Unit - Rear AC Heater Removal - Ford E350 DIY Camper Van Conversion
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- Опубліковано 27 лют 2016
- How to Remove a Rear AC Unit - Rear AC Heater Removal - Ford E350 DIY Camper Van Conversion - I explain how I removed my van's AC and Heater unit. Enjoy!
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BK67075 Rear A/C Block Off Kit - amzn.to/30xR2ip
OEMTOOLS 25042 Air Conditioner/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - amzn.to/3dPqpLe
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Here is a link for the block off kits. I think I paid about $60 for mine. I think the price is ridiculous for two caps and some O rings but it is holding back a lot of pressure and they are simple to install. These links are my affiliate links and I could possibly receive a commission at no extra charge to you if you use my links. I thank you in advance if you choose to use them. 👍
BK67075 Rear A/C Block Off Kit - amzn.to/30xR2ip
OEMTOOLS 25042 Air Conditioner/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - amzn.to/3dPqpLe
Great video, I am doing this to my 01 E350 I will use your affiliate link so you can make a little scratch but I'm curious on Amazon this sellers link has a area to put your model to make sure it fits it says it wont work for a 01. But yours worked okay?
Yes, mine worked out ok.
Ya no está disponible para comprar el producto, es algo temporal?.
Hi there and thank you for your video. I’ll be ordering the kit from your link and the fuel line tool as well and will keep you posted on the outcome.
Your video, even though it was after the fact, was very easy to understand.
Thanks again.
You're welcome Tharwa and I wish you the best with your project.
Thank you. You are the only one that explained exactly for where the block offs go. Now time for me to get to work and do the same. Fingers crossed I do it right.
Thanks for watching! I wish you the best with your project Brian.
You don't know how grateful I am to find your video. I been to several mechanics and they wanted to charge up the tail feather just to do this for me. I told my brother and he said" F*** that I'ma cut them shitz my damn self." He was starting to plan out how to do it. Then I find your video!!!! Thank you so much. We want to put the floor down but this darn thing in the backs gotta go. Thanks again your a life saver
Glad you found the video and I hope it helps you out. Good luck with your project!
I wanted to update you and also share with others something that helped me..
In order to access the quick disconnect lines, I agree the best way is to lay on your back and just wiggle around until you can reach your hand up and feel it. There is a clip on each connection that you can pull off with your fingers, it just takes a little wiggling.
**What I found most helpful is - I used my phone and recorded a video with the flash on, it was very helpful to visualize what was going on up there since I couldn't see it but my phone could. I also have an apple watch so It made it easier to move the camera around and also look at the screen on my wrist. This might not be helpful for everyone, but it certainly worked for me. Thanks again!!!
That's a great idea and I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for posting this info, hopefully it will help the next person who does this job. Thanks again!
You're awesome for taking the time to explain this. Thank you, sir!
Hope it helps you out!
That is very helpful. The kit is now $68 for two caps and four O-rings and over $10 for shipping. Holy wow.
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome. Yes the block off kit is pricey but still much, much cheaper than having a shop do the work for you.
This is awesome. Not much info out there on this topic, really helpful, thank you.
You are quite welcome.
This was incredibly useful and explained in useful and simple way. Thank you.
You are quite welcome, thanks for watching. :)
I'm working on a 1999 E150 with a Mark III conversion. The system seems to be pretty similar. Really helpful!
Thank you!! You are a life saver! My friend and I were just cutting the hoses to evacuate them, she cut, I held the bucket. You can guess what happened lol. Thanks for the advice!!
Glad I could help!
Thank You. You explained the process very well.
Glad it was helpful!
This is something I need to do. Thank you for your great video.
You are so welcome!
great info, I have been trying to figure this out. This is the only video I have found.
Thank you and I hope this video helped you out. :)
Thanks for info, just what I needed to know.
Glad it was helpful!
This is exactly the video I needed
Awesome, I hope it helps you out. :)
Thanks a lot, just had to remove the exact same unit for a work van!
You are welcome, I hope it helped you out.
thanks for the info. i needed that.
You are welcome, Merry Christmas.
Awesome video! Converting the same van now trying to remove the rear Ac
Thank you and good luck with your build.
After I did the removal of the rear AC, my front AC was in tact and fully functional. I did have to have the system recharged after capping off the lines that feed the rear AC unit.
Thanks for the great information and for the links.
Any time!
😊👍 thanks for the video.
+Kaleb S. You are quite welcome. Take care.
Thank you thank you thank yoooouuuuuuu Brother! Great video.
You are quite welcome. Hope it helped you out.
Thank you, just watched it.
Hope it helps you out.
Hey Bruce someone was asking about removal of the AC and heater unit on another channel, gave him a link to the video. Hope all is going well with you and the MRS. Take care ~jman
I do appreciate it, we're doing fine here hoping the same for you. :)
thank you
You are welcome :)
If I accidently cut one of the ac lines and evacuated the ac system, I probably would have evacuated my system as well, ha ha. Thanks for all the info, as I need to do this with my 1998 Dodge conversion van. I just got it 2 days ago and was under there and saw the 3 large coolant lines running under the chassis and snaking their way to the rear. There are several places the hoses have been rubbing against parts under there and are almost worn through. That seems crazy to me plus, all it would take is a rock to pop up there and cut a hose and there you are. No thank you, I am taking them off so I appreciate this info. Didn't see any ac lines heading back there yet but the manual says it has rear ac as well. I just though maybe they ran a duct inside the wall for that ? Only control for that is a rear fan switch up front.
Thanks for the video ,not sure if I will remove it to get a bit more space , I thought was easier, thanks anyway
Glad it helped
You are a god thank you so much
You are welcome and I'm glad this video helped you out. Thanks for watching.
I started.taking out the panels to my ford e350 xlt 05 and found out that part of the panels are a/c vents traveling to the back. I was trying to keep the rear a/c but now, I am stuck as to what to do. Any suggestions?
How do I replace the rear heater core on a 2000 e150 convection van ZEPHYR.
I'll echo everyone else's comments...great video and will shortly be hugely helpful for us and our 2005 E350 conversion. I had the AC capped off professionally but am about to do the coolant lines. My question is if you remember how much less coolant it took after purging and adding the return/L-bracket under the doghouse? Thanks!
Thank you and I'm glad the video helps everyone out. Sorry but I can't answer your question. I had the coolant refill done at a shop and I really don't know how much it required. I also don't know how much was required before the modifications. You may be able to find that info online with a good google search though. Thanks again.
Is it possible to just loop the ac lines for the time being as an easy solution as I already cut mine out..? I found an easy position to loop the heater lines but I thought the AC was connected. Helpful video you even mentioned the difference in size lines which had me a bit confused.
I bought my e-350 with the rear ac already sealed off but the unit itself is still there. Any recommendations on removing that?
Perfect just what I was looking for! Where did you get the block kit from?
+Tepco Cycle Repair It's been over a year now since I did that. I don't remember where I got it. I just did an internet search and if I remember correctly I had several places to choose from. I just chose the cheapest with best shipping. Hope this helps you out.
Thank you, this is just what I needed. I wish I had discovered this before I ripped out the rear A/C. But I think I can still do this. I have a couple questions. 1. How did you cut & bend the aluminum pipe that you used for the coolant hoses? 2. Would it work if I blocked off the two A/C pipes further back on my vehicle, somewhere that is easier to access? I'm a complete beginner & don't know anything about mechanics of cars, but I keep trying to figure things out.
You are welcome and I hope my video helps you out. #1. I didn't bend it I just cut out a piece with an existing 90 degree corner already in the pipe. I know I said U on the video but it's really just a 90 bend in the pipe. #2. For the block off caps to work you have to cap the pipes where there is a factory joint. My set up only had a joint at the front and at the back. I wanted those tubes to be as short as possible so you don't have all that extra Freon running back to the back of the van for no reason so I capped mine at the joint above the front fender. You can't cap the pipes at any location because the caps fit onto the factory joint ends. Hope this helps.
Thank you, your video was tremendously helpful. When I saw all the coolant pouring out when I ripped out the rear unit, I knew I was in trouble. And then I heard noise like something under high pressure was shooting out (I didn't even know it was freon). This video is the only thing of it's kind that I could find. My van is a Ford 2000 E150, but from the video it looked like the only difference is that your vehicle was a little longer. For those who know about metal &/or vehicles this is a stupid questions, but how do I cut the pipe? Do I use a regular hand saw with a metal blade? Or I could borrow an angle grinder from my neighbor.
An angle grinder will work fine or if you have access to one a hack saw will do a nice job too. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching. :)
I am currently converting a 1997 F350 SuperDuty Ambulance, I have already disconnected the A/C and the heater while I was stripping/demolishing the inside. I didn’t realize the rear A/C and heater was connected to the engine. I found your video super helpful on a potential solution but I am unable to find caps that are capable with F series, it seems to all be a similar set up… curious if you might have any ideas or point me in the right direction.
Sorry I have no idea what caps you would need for an old ambulance. You might try to Google it or check with a dealership or auto parts store. They may be able to help you find what you are looking for. Good luck with your project.
This is super helpful! what year and make is your van?! does it matter? doing mine soon on my 1994 chevy G20.. do you think after doing it, you could take a cheaper route and find fittings and clamps at a hardware store and do a DIY job? I feel like either people say dont touch these, or spend the money and do it right.. Makes me nervous to do it myself lol
My van is a 2001 Ford E350. A/C systems are under extreme pressures and need to be depressurized before working on them. Hardware stores don't carry the correct fittings so you will have to get them from an automotive shop. I accidentally depressurized mine by cutting into the line with a cutting wheel while working on the floor. It was dangerous and thankfully I was out side when it happened. I don't recommend doing it that way. A shop can depressurize it for you but I don't know the cost. Good luck and be careful. Remember the system is most likely under very high pressures.
For me the AC evaporator was more towards the rear and the heater core was closer to the engine.
Hi. Thanks for the video. Question: I started this before my caps arrived. If I “short circuit” the hose lines under the dog house and add coolant can I drive without the caps on? Does it just mean I’ll have no ac? Thanks. Cheers.
You are welcome for the video. Sorry but I can't answer your question. I have never tried that so I really don't know how it would work out. Good luck with your project.
I also took the rear AC out before seeing this video. I connected the coolant lines together and did not cap the AC, and it ran fine. I just haven't turned on the AC. About to order the caps now. Thanks for the video.
You are welcome Ben!
I found a rear ac block kit online, but the page said that I need a springlock removal tool to disconnect the lines. Is that an essential item to purchase?
Jacob Liskowiak yes, you will need the special tool to disconnect the joints to install the new caps. Here is a link for the block off kits. I think I paid about $60 for mine. I think the price is ridiculous for two caps and some O rings but it is holding back a lot of pressure and they are simple to install.
BK67075 Rear A/C Block Off Kit - amzn.to/30xR2ip
OEMTOOLS 25042 Air Conditioner/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - amzn.to/3dPqpLe
I can't seem to find where you have answered Samantha's question about the block off kits. I think you are the only guy in the world who knows about them. Can you tell me where i can find them. I've tried Ford parts but no joy. Would really like to know where to order the cap off or block off kit from.
Here is a link for the block off kits. I think I paid about $60 for mine. I think the price is ridiculous for two caps and some O rings but it is holding back a lot of pressure and they are simple to install.
BK67075 Rear A/C Block Off Kit - amzn.to/30xR2ip
OEMTOOLS 25042 Air Conditioner/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - amzn.to/3dPqpLe
I am removing the same type of unit from the rear of my van. I reconnected the heater hoses together, but I can't find the parts I need to cap off/reconnect the AC hoses. If I refill the reservoir, will the radiator, water pump, and everything still work if the AC hoses are still disconnected? Or does the AC need to be capped like you've done?
Yes, everything will still work except the AC. Also it isn't good for the AC compressor to run without AC fluid in it so don't turn on the AC if you don't cap it and fill it. Also on most vehicles if not all vehicles the AC compressor runs when you have your heater settings set in the defrost position so try to avoid that as well if you don't plan to cap it and have it filled. (the AC that is) Your heater, water pump should all work fine with the radiator hoses connected and filled properly. Thanks for watching and I hope this helps. :)
Here is a link for the block off kits. I think I paid about $60 for mine. I think the price is ridiculous for two caps and some O rings but it is holding back a lot of pressure and they are simple to install.
BK67075 Rear A/C Block Off Kit - amzn.to/30xR2ip
OEMTOOLS 25042 Air Conditioner/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - amzn.to/3dPqpLe
Wow, dude thank you thank you thank you. I am doing the exact same thing to my first stealth van and don't know my butt from my elbow about AC/Heat. Let me ask you did them heater lines don't have to reconnect in a 'U' like the AC lines did?
How big a bucket am I gonna need? Do you remember if there was a lot of stuff in it?
You didn't have to weld them holes huh? I was thinking I'd have to weld the holes.
The A/C lines are the aluminum lines and were capped off with the block off kit I purchased. One line is a little larger than the other and get capped off just above the driver side front wheel. The heater lines are the larger rubber lines I installed the "U" into under the dog house with the hose clamps. I probably got a quart or so of fluid out of the heater lines. The A/C lines are the trick ones because they are under extreme pressure. It would be best to have the A/C system evacuated by a shop before you cut those lines. Once you install the block off caps you'll have to have your A/C system re-charged so your dash A/C will work. Kind of a pain and a little pricey but worth it in the end I think.
I just removed the rear AC/heater core from my '04 E350 Superduty XL, and drained all the coolant before I started. My van holds approx 4 gallons of coolant, but this may vary in different years/models.
Also, it bears mentioning that I found an AC block-off kit at my local auto parts store for 13.99. Not sure if it's manufactured to the same specifications and quality as WannaBFree's kit, but it's a lot cheaper if you're operating on a limited budget!
Awesome, sounds like you scored on the price! As long as it doesn't leak when installed you will be fine.
Hows that radiator loop holding up after all tgis time. Im planning on doing same on a 05 e150
I sold the van several years ago but it held up just fine while I owned the van.
hey i have a question . do those heat hoses on the back of the ac/ heater stay hot when u driving the van . first time looking at them on the back and they are hot ?
I would think they should be hot when the engine is hot. I believe the engines coolant continuously circulates through those lines when the engine is running.
thanks
any issues so far? does it change the pressure in your coolant system? im planning on doing this soon.
I sold that van a couple of years ago but the few years I owned it I had no issues with the modification. I think the pressure in the system would be the same with or without the extra run of hoses. You'll just have a little less fluid with the shorter lines. Good luck with your project and thanks for stopping by.
Where is the drain pipe air conditioning ford transit connect panel van 2012 thanks
I have no idea
Thanks for the video sir! Is it feasible to just pull a fuse somewhere and then never run it in the rear and cover it up?? Thanks in advance!
I really don't know but I don't know why that wouldn't work.
@@WannaBFree Thanks!
My other hose wasn't aluminum. Is there something else that would work to attach the radiator hose together?
Sorry but it is difficult to come up with a solution without actually seeing what there is to work with.
I think I just figured it out actually! Thanks for the video!!
Was there a trick to getting the block off kit in behind the shock tower and spring? Did you go from a certain point where there was more room to get in there and install the caps?
It's been quite a few years since I made that modification. I do remember it being quite a challenge but it is doable. If I remember right, I think I laid underneath just behind the driver front tire to get an angle I could work with to get it done. Sorry, it's been too long for me to remember any specific details of that task. It wasn't simple but I didn't use any special tools except for the removal tool for the block off caps.
How did you end up disconnect the lines?
I just ripped the rear ac unit out of my chevy van. You set up looks like mine.
Now my vans overheating. So would i just cap off the hoses i cut so the fluids dont leak again?
I don't think I would just cap them off. I would connect them together so the radiator fluid could circulate through the hoses and back to the radiator. I'm not familiar with the chevy set up but from what you have said, that is what I would do. Hope this helps.
Thanks. Thats what i was i thinking. Next time i wont beat the hell out of my van with a hammer. I think its time to start taking it easy on her.
Bought the block off kit but I can’t figure out how to get the damn ac lines disconnected
The lines disconnect at the joints using one of these tools. You can google how to use it and it will make sense.
OEMTOOLS 25042 Air Conditioner/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - amzn.to/3dPqpLe
Hey! we are trying to do the same thing but cant seem to find the kit anywhere. Could you let us know where you bought it and how much u paid?
Thank you
Here is a link for the block off kits. I think I paid about $60 for mine. I think the price is ridiculous for two caps and some O rings but it is holding back a lot of pressure and they are simple to install.
BK67075 Rear A/C Block Off Kit - @t
OEMTOOLS 25042 Air Conditioner/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - @t
This is great, thank you! Can you buy the AC caps at any auto store you think?
My experience was most local auto parts stores didn't have the one I needed so I had to order mine on line.
What exactly did you buy? I need to do this exact cap off for my van
@@solaceincarnate Here is a link for the block off kits. I think I paid about $60 for mine. I think the price is ridiculous for two caps and some O rings but it is holding back a lot of pressure and they are simple to install.
BK67075 Rear A/C Block Off Kit - amzn.to/30xR2ip
OEMTOOLS 25042 Air Conditioner/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - amzn.to/3dPqpLe
Did you come across some sort of sensor in the radiator line? I want to loop my radiator line back to itself but there's this sensor thing attached to it where the lines go up into the floor in the rear of the van.
It's been a few years now but I don't recall having any sensors in the radiator line when I did the removal.
@@WannaBFree it might be a temperature gauge
Yes it might be a temperature gauge. Does it have wires coming from it?
@@WannaBFree it has 1 small wire that disapears into the frame
I’m using your video as I do this myself. The problem that I saw someone else already posted about is accessing the AC lines to disconnect them. I’m finding it nearly impossible when lying on my back, also it feels like there is a square piece around the bigger pipe and I can’t seem to get that off. Any other suggestions or advice to save me from further frustration?
Also - the quick disconnect tool I plan to use looks like this one, will this work? Or do I need the circular discs
m.lowes.com/pd/KD-Tools-Automotive-Fuel-Line-Disconnect-Tool/50190691?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA_ONLY-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-SosHandTools-_-50190691:KD_Tools&CAWELAID=&kpid=50190691&CAGPSPN=pla&k_clickID=bb283293-59fe-44d1-983e-f32ca4433a89&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-9CWgaXl2QIVVLbACh1YLQWkEAQYAiABEgJlRPD_BwE
Thanks for the great info
Unfortunately I have no quick easy tricks. It's not an easy job but with persistence it's doable. That looks like the correct tool for a Ford as far as I can tell from the pics. Just make sure your system is not under pressure when you try to disconnect the lines. Good luck with your project.
I think you can try inplix for some problems with that
Thanks for the tip
Thanks
Oh heck. i just now saw the "read more" so I did. Guess what - - it's right there. Thanks.
No problem, good luck with your project. 😀👍
Why not keep the rear HVAC for climate control when van living? You could adapt the HVAC to work off another battery when the van's engine is not running. DC or AC, what a great use of the Ford's rear HVAC unit. It doesn't take up much space.
That's a good idea but I think it would be pretty difficult to run the compressor pump off a battery when the van's engine is not running.
0:27
Was it worth it to remove it though? Would be easy to cool or heat the whole van before bed :X
There were times when I wished I didn't remove it. I removed it to give more room for the bed but if I were to do it again, I think I would rethink how and where I would build the bed. Good question!
@@WannaBFree Did you wish you didn't remove it due to heat/cold? I am not worried about climate control in my build, but I am wondering if it is worth all this effort. How do you properly uncharge and recharge the A/C lines on your own?
@@seanluong6064 Yes there were a few times when I wished I had heat and cooling in the back of the van. That's only because I was traveling in the wrong part of the country at the wrong time of year. LOL I don't think you can properly charge and discharge the lines on your own. It requires specialized equipment that most people don't have access to. It's also expensive to have a shop do either one. I would say that if you can work around it the easiest and most economical answer would be to leave. The choice is up to you.
@@WannaBFree thank you. I called a mechanic and he said it will cost me between 400 and 800 bucks. So now i have the incentive to just leave it alone and do my build around it.
K
I had to switch the playback speed to 2x
bro same