I bought a gas forge from Dan and it’s just awesome! I bought a two segments with two burners and two doors. It heats up very fast. It runs calmly (not a big roar) unless you run it at max. The outside doesn’t become extremely hot. It’s well insulated, I have the version without K-wool but with the fire resistant bricks. This is good no unhealthy K-wool fibers and the bricks are very easy to shape. The forge is very versatile. I can also use it half by putting some bricks halfway and run it with one burner. It’s really not comparable with cheap forges you see around. This is a sturdy, robust, durable, well insulated, well built and designed forge. I’m very happy with it and can recommend this to every blacksmith! Thank you Dan!
Also I have just taken delivery of a Devil Forge double burner. So I was glade to see you painting on the sealer as my forge came with a powder form to mix. I had no clue how to use it, now I do. Also it came with fire brick for the bottom to reduce wear on the bottom. That may be worth doing on yours as you are loading heavy stock. Just a thought. 1 of my bricks was broken. I emailed the company & they posted a new set next morning. Should arrive this week. Thanks again for sharing. Hugo N. Ireland.
oh man cool cool video. The ends of the burners getting cherry red is a might concerning hopefully you can figure out to fix that properly. Looking forward to that video.
Hi Dan, love seeing this monster getting built, If I may, with the little experience I have and asking other people and researching on UA-cam and forums, the blanket is a great Idea for insulating a forge. The coating is a must to stop those fibres coming loose and into the air that we breathe. Very dangerous as you already know. What I wanted to mention is that the wool and the coating while being very good insulators, probably won't stand up to wear and tear of forging, i.e. material going in and out and most likely hitting the sides, as the wool and coating will not be durable, they will probably break down after a while. On my sides I have use a soft fire brick which has excellent insulting properties and have just lined them with a castable especially made for covering existing insulators. It is a durable refractory and can protect your non durable products for years. This came from the guys I bought this from In Melbourne Australia, who specialize in this industry. Just a point for you to consider mate.
Hey there Dan. Great job on the forge sir!!! I have to admit though that watching you guys working on your anvil and the power hammer made my back hurt. Being all bent over like that's gotta be killing your back. Love the video just the same though!!! Great job.
Dan that thing is sweet!. Can't believe how quick it heated that 16lb. block of steel. That should really help you with the making of the anvil. Can't wait to see it happen.
1 statement. FORGE ENVY 😀😁😆😂🤣 Awesome forge. You are the ultimate Dude Dan! Whew that heats up good and looks fast too. What a beast. Congratulations Mr. Moss 🙏blessing abundant sir Crawford out 🧙♂️
Really good. Good news I got notification of this video so we're back. I was feeding the sound through my wee speaker, wow, my chair was vibrating like a wee earth tremor lol. That is a beast. Keep the videos coming, GREAT to have someone in the UK doing this stuff. Please don't pack up shop & move to another country 😂😂🇬🇧🇬🇧💈🥂
i Installed burners on a brick kiln once (as in a kiln for making builders bricks) huge thing! they had ceramic quarls(burner nozzles) which where more resistant to the heat and corrossion. maybe you could cast or modify a ceramic burner? awesome stuff dude catch up soon. J
I have made a lot of burners to preheat steel before welding and I always used a zerk fitting for the venture (or jet), just file the end off and take the little ball and spring out.
Great build it's huge Thanks for the update on the Bulkhead fittings I just used 1/4 inch nipple had it threaded right across A cap on the end drilled and threaded for the Mig end Seems to work a treat
That's an awesome Forge Dan. I really like the way you set up the door. When I built my gas forge, I set the burner so it was set inside of the castable refractory. I ended up melting one of the burner ends before I did that. Good luck.
Mate that thing is a beast. Great work as usual mate. You're right about the ceramic wool it's a brilliant product. I like that paint on rigidiser I used a spray on one which is obviously not as thick.
Hey Dan, I'm sure your work list for UA-cam is as long as your leg but would you consider adding a basic forge setup to the list? I'm building a small smithy in my garden with a box of dirt forge, pretty much flying blind! Would be great to see what I should be actually doing. Keep up the good work! Cheers
I was inspired enough by this to build myself a small forge from a disposable helium cylinder, using a similar construction method (Vitcas 1430C blanket and Zircon paint) but using slices of an IFB (grade 30) for the floor (also coated in the Zircon paint). I was wondering if you could update us on the longevity of this kind of construction, whether you've had to patch any surfaces etc, and how robust the walls are. I am currently building a foundry from yet another helium cylinder, again using the same construction method, and hope the walls will survive careful use of the crucible lift out tongs.
Hi Dan try 304 or 321 stainless fittings that’s what is used on the flare on refineries or you could fit a 6mm stainless plate to the end of your current ones with multiple holes and make a pepper pot type burner (similar to a ribbon burner in effect)
Nice 'little' gasser Dan, I remember the beasts that Roger runs. Most big forges use oil for the cost efficiency on the BTU's to be honest, but propane will get you going for now. Moony used to run his on waste veggie oil with a bit of diesel thrown in, even waste motor oil now and again. I would say you need to sort out the anvil block on that Massey before you do the anvil though, it's jumping around more than I'd be happy working with on big stock, re-wedge the bugger.
@@danielmoss2089 It'll save you a few bob in fuel for sure, but don't skimp on the 'flame out' sensors and gubbins mate. I've seen the front door of a big oil burner blown clean off it's mountings when it flamed out and then reignited. Hell of a whoomph :D
Might I suggest you build a forced air ribbon burner for your forge, propane burn efficiency is significantly better without sacrificing the heat you are trying to achieve... What temperature is the steel on the outside of your forge getting to???? Just my pence.... well done Dan.
You can but I didn't build the forge to be propane this is a make do for the anvil build its going to be diesel! It get hot is but since the build video I have made some changes and it's fairing much better!
I've never had any luck with CF and rigidiser. In no time the rigidiser falls off and exposes fibers. Any refractory is bad for you and will release dust in use. We use gas, coke and induction forges at work and I wear a respirator all day no matter what I'm doing. Our shop is very well ventilated with a huge shutter door very close to the workspace. However, after a few weeks, I can see the muck in the filters that would have been in my lungs.
Mate did you cure the castable before the big heat, i.e first let it set for a day or two, then little heat for 5-10 min and gradually build up, during this process it's common to see steam coming off the forge that's the last bit of moisture evaporating. And for the burners, some ceramic wool in between the burner the the holder up top on the forge stops heat coming up from the forge too.??
We have a lot to talk about. Yes I made the burners fit better and I was also aware of protcting the wool and both coats got a 24hour drying window and slow warm ups. I have no issues with the wool.
Thanks for the tips and these are defo things I should have point out. Also I'm working form some one else design that uses this type of Forge on a daily bases.
Thanks for the tips and these are defo things I should have point out. Also I'm working form some one else design that uses this type of Forge on a daily bases.
@@danielmoss2089 No worries Dan, just be aware mate, that with different people or anyone really putting steel in and out and accidentally hitting the wool with the coating on it, after a while it will deteriorate, however, that coating might be pretty durable. Time will really tell Dan. Will be following with interest my friend.
@@danielmoss2089 Wool is good great, I used it on the roof with gun cast over it, holds up very well, and for the floor which is like yours I have 50mm wool then 1600 castable over that. On the roof part some experts told me to use anchors, so bits of steel in like a half diamond shape welded on first then the wool pressed in around them. Helps hold it in better, some use special glues too for high heat.
Get man I'm pretty New to blacksmithing..I'm other words never do e it yet ...I was wondering if I made something similar to the coffee can design with a single torch ..I would make one with a tin 1 ft diameter and maybe two or three torches in hopes to play around with something like 1\4 in thick 01 tool steel bar stock ..I wanna eventually make a nice oversize survival randall style knife ..any advice would be awesome man thanks for the video thumbs up
Hi, Great build. Man did that block of steel get hot 🔥 Might have to name the forge, Dragon's Kennel. Just pick your favourite dragon 🐲 from How to Train Your Dragon.
I already built the double burners almost exactly the same as yours. I also wondered if you put any on the metal to stick the Ceramic wool to? Some people do so the Ceramic wool stays put.
Dan just thought of something, how far do you have the burners into the forge, as they should be up a bit from the insulation in the roof maybe about 15-20 mm something like that. i.e. not protruding into the body of the forge itself. Hope that makes sense.
Your picking up on all the thinks I know arer wrong. So I'm modifying the burners and for the second lot of test we did I made the fit much better. Basically the burner second flear/venturi did fit in the holes I cut as I cut them for the stainless flears I will be making and fitting.
@@danielmoss2089 So not picking on ya mate just trying to help as these things can be tricky to get right not forgetting that gas is pretty dangerous. When watching before i saw that far burner got hot on the outside, red actually, so as a mate Had to mention it in a safety manner of fact, as others have helped me I am always here to help others if I can to get the best out of our equipment. Cheers mate.
Uh that a little on the large size but it'll do what you need it to,and you might not need that middle burner . looking toward to the burner mods and of course the anvil build .take care
Please seal your burner ports with the paint on stuff to stop the small particles from the kaowool, from getting in the local atmosphere. Any exposed surfaces will release particles close to the micron range. Bad for the lungs! Cheers
Nice job on the build! Design question, what was the purpose of choosing a peaked roof vs a flat one ? Does it help in some manner with heat distribution or were you looking for more volume ? Just wanted to know your thoughts. Thanks
It's mostly to get the burners coming in at an angle and create some turbulence and provent the concentrated heat of the burners hit the work directly. It's also easier than bending the metal into an arch.
That's a beast!! Nice job dude!! Those burners looked like they work great, what was the issue you need to work on? The burners or Placement/angle/depth?
Daniel loved the video my whole family watched it! What was the product you used to coat the wool? I'm hoping that's something I can find in the states. Keep up the awesome work man. You're my favorite for sure.
Wow, that forge looks like a dog kennel and it comes with indoor heating!!........ Please DON'T put your dog in there by mistake! It looks like a great forge but it would make an awful dog house! Can't wait to see the anvil build 👍👍👍👍👍
What ever measure your comfortable with is what you should use. I've always thought UA-camrs who struggle with trying to give both imperial and metric values are hurting their video product. Viewers can easily convert if they wish. Just my opinion of course.
Fair point but I get people bitching about measurements all the time. I can keep every one happy. I would rather just uses metric but it would cause some people to walk away from the videos. I think I do well for the most part. Sorry if I make mistakes.
@@danielmoss2089 Just to be clear I was not criticizing. I understand why you feel like you must give both. You do fine and that is one hell of a forge! I'm not sure I could afford the gas bill though.
I need it sooner rather than later. I have these burner laying about. When I have all the parts it will be deisel. Most large industrial forges run off liquid fuels. Way more efficient and better burn than gas. But I appreciate your in put. Thanks
You needed to mix the re-factory cement and kaowool together (just like papier-mâché), then you coat it with the sealer. Everything become rock solid without the fear of kaowool fiber exposure while burning.
![[BLACKSMITH] Epic Door Build for the Forge!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fp6Imlscnko/mqdefault.jpg)
![[BLACKSMITH] Epic Door Build for the Forge!](/img/tr.png)
I bought a gas forge from Dan and it’s just awesome! I bought a two segments with two burners and two doors. It heats up very fast. It runs calmly (not a big roar) unless you run it at max. The outside doesn’t become extremely hot. It’s well insulated, I have the version without K-wool but with the fire resistant bricks. This is good no unhealthy K-wool fibers and the bricks are very easy to shape. The forge is very versatile. I can also use it half by putting some bricks halfway and run it with one burner. It’s really not comparable with cheap forges you see around. This is a sturdy, robust, durable, well insulated, well built and designed forge. I’m very happy with it and can recommend this to every blacksmith! Thank you Dan!
Also I have just taken delivery of a Devil Forge double burner. So I was glade to see you painting on the sealer as my forge came with a powder form to mix. I had no clue how to use it, now I do. Also it came with fire brick for the bottom to reduce wear on the bottom. That may be worth doing on yours as you are loading heavy stock. Just a thought. 1 of my bricks was broken. I emailed the company & they posted a new set next morning. Should arrive this week. Thanks again for sharing. Hugo N. Ireland.
I saw the pictures of this monster on instagram, super happy there's a video for this thing now too.
oh man cool cool video. The ends of the burners getting cherry red is a might concerning hopefully you can figure out to fix that properly. Looking forward to that video.
Thanks for sharing your build with us Dan. That is a monster forge indeed!! Can't wait to see it when you get your burners tweaked to your liking!
Nice work Dan!
Hi Dan, love seeing this monster getting built, If I may, with the little experience I have and asking other people and researching on UA-cam and forums, the blanket is a great Idea for insulating a forge. The coating is a must to stop those fibres coming loose and into the air that we breathe. Very dangerous as you already know. What I wanted to mention is that the wool and the coating while being very good insulators, probably won't stand up to wear and tear of forging, i.e. material going in and out and most likely hitting the sides, as the wool and coating will not be durable, they will probably break down after a while. On my sides I have use a soft fire brick which has excellent insulting properties and have just lined them with a castable especially made for covering existing insulators. It is a durable refractory and can protect your non durable products for years. This came from the guys I bought this from In Melbourne Australia, who specialize in this industry. Just a point for you to consider mate.
Who was it in Melbourne, Len?
@@markfryer9880 It was Consolidated Refractories Australasia Pty. Ltd Contact Brad.
@@markfryer9880 Here is website Mark. consolidatedrefractories.com.au/
@@markfryer9880 Mark did you see my reply with the link to the place in Melbourne.????
Hey there Dan. Great job on the forge sir!!! I have to admit though that watching you guys working on your anvil and the power hammer made my back hurt. Being all bent over like that's gotta be killing your back. Love the video just the same though!!! Great job.
Dan that thing is sweet!. Can't believe how quick it heated that 16lb. block of steel. That should really help you with the making of the anvil. Can't wait to see it happen.
That’s a great looking forge Daniel and it worked!! Enjoyed it’s fabrication.
That forge is huge. Enjoyed full process of making this forge👍🏻
1 statement.
FORGE ENVY 😀😁😆😂🤣
Awesome forge. You are the ultimate Dude Dan!
Whew that heats up good and looks fast too. What a beast. Congratulations Mr. Moss
🙏blessing abundant sir
Crawford out 🧙♂️
Now THAT is a real Fire Breathing Monster ! Awesome build !!!
Really good. Good news I got notification of this video so we're back. I was feeding the sound through my wee speaker, wow, my chair was vibrating like a wee earth tremor lol. That is a beast. Keep the videos coming, GREAT to have someone in the UK doing this stuff. Please don't pack up shop & move to another country 😂😂🇬🇧🇬🇧💈🥂
i Installed burners on a brick kiln once (as in a kiln for making builders bricks) huge thing! they had ceramic quarls(burner nozzles) which where more resistant to the heat and corrossion. maybe you could cast or modify a ceramic burner? awesome stuff dude catch up soon. J
A like for the metric system!
A like for that like, good Sir! The metric system. It's just logical.
I have made a lot of burners to preheat steel before welding and I always used a zerk fitting for the venture (or jet), just file the end off and take the little ball and spring out.
Great build it's huge
Thanks for the update on the Bulkhead fittings
I just used 1/4 inch nipple had it threaded right across
A cap on the end drilled and threaded for the Mig end
Seems to work a treat
That's an awesome Forge Dan. I really like the way you set up the door. When I built my gas forge, I set the burner so it was set inside of the castable refractory. I ended up melting one of the burner ends before I did that. Good luck.
Amazing! I want to build one large enough (someday) to forge anvils! Preferably a coal forge. Good luck Dan. :)
This was fantastic. Really enjoyed watching this. Thank you.
I to visit the Quad State Roundup and hope to meet you but it didn't work out for me, Again a fine video,
Thanks for showing and teaching,Sir
Mate that thing is a beast. Great work as usual mate. You're right about the ceramic wool it's a brilliant product. I like that paint on rigidiser I used a spray on one which is obviously not as thick.
This is gonna be epic! I'd put a tennis ball or something soft on the end of your door handle lever. It's a eye-poke level
Great job Dan, it's like looking into the pit of Hades!
Hey Dan, I'm sure your work list for UA-cam is as long as your leg but would you consider adding a basic forge setup to the list? I'm building a small smithy in my garden with a box of dirt forge, pretty much flying blind! Would be great to see what I should be actually doing. Keep up the good work! Cheers
What a great forge, you have done well.
I was inspired enough by this to build myself a small forge from a disposable helium cylinder, using a similar construction method (Vitcas 1430C blanket and Zircon paint) but using slices of an IFB (grade 30) for the floor (also coated in the Zircon paint). I was wondering if you could update us on the longevity of this kind of construction, whether you've had to patch any surfaces etc, and how robust the walls are. I am currently building a foundry from yet another helium cylinder, again using the same construction method, and hope the walls will survive careful use of the crucible lift out tongs.
She's a beast for sure. Great video on the build. Thanks
Hi Dan try 304 or 321 stainless fittings that’s what is used on the flare on refineries or you could fit a 6mm stainless plate to the end of your current ones with multiple holes and make a pepper pot type burner (similar to a ribbon burner in effect)
Wow!!! Just wow!!!
Thanks dude
Beast! Great build. I'm glad to see you taking propped precautions with the ceramic blanket. I am horrified seeing people handle it without a mask.
Forge the 80kg anvil with h13 and by hand!!!!. Should be done by next Christmas. Cheers!!!
It will all be by hand well mostly might need to draw the face down from tine but the rest is going to be by hand.
The power of a striker!!! Notice he didn't say "his" hand🤔😁😜
That is a monster Daniel. I love it! That fiber insulation is the best you can get for propane forges. That's my opinion. Damn good job Daniel
Looking at what you've just done, I have to say... That is an impressive piece of work there Mr. Moss ^.^
nice one Dan now that's a forge
Cool work 👍
That liquid refractory thick enough like drywall plaster, probably work better using a trowel rather than a brush
Just stumbled across your channel and liked what I saw. Nice forge.
Thanks dude! Pleased you like.
Nice 'little' gasser Dan, I remember the beasts that Roger runs. Most big forges use oil for the cost efficiency on the BTU's to be honest, but propane will get you going for now. Moony used to run his on waste veggie oil with a bit of diesel thrown in, even waste motor oil now and again. I would say you need to sort out the anvil block on that Massey before you do the anvil though, it's jumping around more than I'd be happy working with on big stock, re-wedge the bugger.
I'm going to make it diesel asap! And roger help me hehe
@@danielmoss2089 It'll save you a few bob in fuel for sure, but don't skimp on the 'flame out' sensors and gubbins mate. I've seen the front door of a big oil burner blown clean off it's mountings when it flamed out and then reignited. Hell of a whoomph :D
Might I suggest you build a forced air ribbon burner for your forge, propane burn efficiency is significantly better without sacrificing the heat you are trying to achieve...
What temperature is the steel on the outside of your forge getting to???? Just my pence.... well done Dan.
You can but I didn't build the forge to be propane this is a make do for the anvil build its going to be diesel!
It get hot is but since the build video I have made some changes and it's fairing much better!
I've never had any luck with CF and rigidiser. In no time the rigidiser falls off and exposes fibers. Any refractory is bad for you and will release dust in use. We use gas, coke and induction forges at work and I wear a respirator all day no matter what I'm doing. Our shop is very well ventilated with a huge shutter door very close to the workspace. However, after a few weeks, I can see the muck in the filters that would have been in my lungs.
Mate did you cure the castable before the big heat, i.e first let it set for a day or two, then little heat for 5-10 min and gradually build up, during this process it's common to see steam coming off the forge that's the last bit of moisture evaporating. And for the burners, some ceramic wool in between the burner the the holder up top on the forge stops heat coming up from the forge too.??
We have a lot to talk about. Yes I made the burners fit better and I was also aware of protcting the wool and both coats got a 24hour drying window and slow warm ups. I have no issues with the wool.
Thanks for the tips and these are defo things I should have point out. Also I'm working form some one else design that uses this type of Forge on a daily bases.
Thanks for the tips and these are defo things I should have point out. Also I'm working form some one else design that uses this type of Forge on a daily bases.
@@danielmoss2089 No worries Dan, just be aware mate, that with different people or anyone really putting steel in and out and accidentally hitting the wool with the coating on it, after a while it will deteriorate, however, that coating might be pretty durable. Time will really tell Dan. Will be following with interest my friend.
@@danielmoss2089 Wool is good great, I used it on the roof with gun cast over it, holds up very well, and for the floor which is like yours I have 50mm wool then 1600 castable over that. On the roof part some experts told me to use anchors, so bits of steel in like a half diamond shape welded on first then the wool pressed in around them. Helps hold it in better, some use special glues too for high heat.
Damn large forge there Dan. Not messing about are you. Nice job.
Awesome stuff dan! There's always going to be difficulties in a new build, especially with such a huge one! Keep up the great work mate .
Nice build!
"Chemistry with Danny"😜😁
I would have put some rigidizer into burner holes too
Get man I'm pretty New to blacksmithing..I'm other words never do e it yet ...I was wondering if I made something similar to the coffee can design with a single torch ..I would make one with a tin 1 ft diameter and maybe two or three torches in hopes to play around with something like 1\4 in thick 01 tool steel bar stock ..I wanna eventually make a nice oversize survival randall style knife ..any advice would be awesome man thanks for the video thumbs up
The burn nozzles from Cameco Australia $22 each and the burners are $175 👍🏻
Hi, Great build. Man did that block of steel get hot 🔥
Might have to name the forge,
Dragon's Kennel.
Just pick your favourite dragon 🐲 from How to Train Your Dragon.
how to forge your dragon
Very cool vid Daniel great build.
Very good as always!!
Hi Dan can you show us using this forge in some future video's.??? Please??
Now it’s anvil time!!!!
I already built the double burners almost exactly the same as yours. I also wondered if you put any on the metal to stick the Ceramic wool to? Some people do so the Ceramic wool stays put.
You can see the quality from ellas work .should have left the build to her lol great work forge from hell love it
Wow.. that is huge.. I thought mine was going to be large LOL. Never heard of a diesel forge, though I know of a few waste oil foundries.
Make a little ventilation chimney on the top soo you dont need to keep the door open all the time 😀
Where can I get the burner design and the tuning of it. Gas economy ?? 👍👍
Hi Dan can you tell us how this forge is going now. Maybe do a video on it for us please haven't see much lately on it?
Really nice looking forge there. Time to make some gingerbread houses! Lol
Multitasking, will it cook a pizza? Nice one Dan, the anvil will be an epic build. 👍🖖
Can you get ceramic tips for your burners. I know Ron Riel had made some that NASA uses.
I'll check it out hehe
Hi Daniel, how durable was the hardened ceramic mating after a period of use?
Dan just thought of something, how far do you have the burners into the forge, as they should be up a bit from the insulation in the roof maybe about 15-20 mm something like that. i.e. not protruding into the body of the forge itself. Hope that makes sense.
Your picking up on all the thinks I know arer wrong. So I'm modifying the burners and for the second lot of test we did I made the fit much better. Basically the burner second flear/venturi did fit in the holes I cut as I cut them for the stainless flears I will be making and fitting.
I have also doubled the wool thick Ness and I'll be changing the door too castable.
@@danielmoss2089 So not picking on ya mate just trying to help as these things can be tricky to get right not forgetting that gas is pretty dangerous. When watching before i saw that far burner got hot on the outside, red actually, so as a mate Had to mention it in a safety manner of fact, as others have helped me I am always here to help others if I can to get the best out of our equipment. Cheers mate.
@@danielmoss2089 Sounds good Dan I reckon this forge is going to be a very valuable asset to your shop.
Uh that a little on the large size but it'll do what you need it to,and you might not need that middle burner . looking toward to the burner mods and of course the anvil build .take care
Please seal your burner ports with the paint on stuff to stop the small particles from the kaowool, from getting in the local atmosphere. Any exposed surfaces will release particles close to the micron range. Bad for the lungs!
Cheers
Sorted and I have made other changes that I will do up dates on thank for your comment. Up date video soon.
Cooooooool 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice job on the build! Design question, what was the purpose of choosing a peaked roof vs a flat one ? Does it help in some manner with heat distribution or were you looking for more volume ? Just wanted to know your thoughts. Thanks
It's mostly to get the burners coming in at an angle and create some turbulence and provent the concentrated heat of the burners hit the work directly. It's also easier than bending the metal into an arch.
I also copied a design from another Smith called Roger Lund.
That is insane! Great work gentlemen! Did you investigate using a ribbon burner? Just curious.
I had the same question..... ribbon burner
well worth the wait x great video loving the forge but she missing her eyes and a name x
That's a beast!! Nice job dude!! Those burners looked like they work great, what was the issue you need to work on? The burners or Placement/angle/depth?
HOLY HELL THAT'S ONE BURNER??
Daniel loved the video my whole family watched it! What was the product you used to coat the wool? I'm hoping that's something I can find in the states. Keep up the awesome work man. You're my favorite for sure.
"handy little piece of kit"ahaha
consider putting a counter weight on the door
Wow, that forge looks like a dog kennel and it comes with indoor heating!!........ Please DON'T put your dog in there by mistake! It looks like a great forge but it would make an awful dog house! Can't wait to see the anvil build 👍👍👍👍👍
I dare you to forge a forge in your giant anvil forge
Why not go with a ribon burner?
Wow! Looks awesome mate it's a beast. I dropped you an email
I did get and the answer is.......
What ever measure your comfortable with is what you should use. I've always thought UA-camrs who struggle with trying to give both imperial and metric values are hurting their video product. Viewers can easily convert if they wish. Just my opinion of course.
Fair point but I get people bitching about measurements all the time. I can keep every one happy. I would rather just uses metric but it would cause some people to walk away from the videos. I think I do well for the most part. Sorry if I make mistakes.
@@danielmoss2089 Just to be clear I was not criticizing. I understand why you feel like you must give both. You do fine and that is one hell of a forge! I'm not sure I could afford the gas bill though.
@@jimhumphrey I'm not sure I can afford it either bring on the deisel.
Cool!! I mean hot, really hot! :)
Awesome work, that's one a hell of a monster indeed !
PS : Elliott's Instagram link is "not found", typo maybe ? ;)
Elliottwarringtonblacksmith
The links correct just not working lol
@@danielmoss2089 Found it : it's wArrington, not wOrrington in the description ;)
All sorted dude thanks.
Should have made it forced air ribbon burner!
I need it sooner rather than later. I have these burner laying about. When I have all the parts it will be deisel. Most large industrial forges run off liquid fuels. Way more efficient and better burn than gas. But I appreciate your in put. Thanks
@@danielmoss2089 does a diesel burner get up to forge welding temps? Just curious!
They can get forges I've worked in up to 1400c so yes! I worked with a Swedish Smith that uses his deisel for making powder steel. So I believe yes.
But to be honest I'm not bothered about welding in it. That's what arc welders are for hehe
@@danielmoss2089 sweet! I'll take your word for it. I recently built a ribbon burner and ever since I've been in love :)
You needed to mix the re-factory cement and kaowool together (just like papier-mâché), then you coat it with the sealer. Everything become rock solid without the fear of kaowool fiber exposure while burning.
welcome to the dark side (off he forge) :)
I'm totally stealing this line for my workshop. I laughed so hard when he said that.
Hey Dan where are you, haven't seen a video for a while???
I'm right here. Super busy and struggling with content. Something will be coming very soon.
@@danielmoss2089 Ok so long as you're ok, got a bit worried when I haven't heard from you. Take care mate, and just do what you can do, cheers Len.
Nice job, subscribed! If you want more subs, feel free to embed your video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-)
how many seconds does it take to cook a pizza......
It might hehe
What about cooking a roast?