Todays the big day installing the Brand New 5.0L 302cid engine so happy ... machine shops here in DAGO are very slow at doing anything 2 months to do a valve job it use to be 3 days... what happen is most of the machine shop in san diego shut down and the few left are back log big time. it took many months just to get parts and 2 months to get a cam... just killed me on time this bronco has been down for 11 months, it took a lot of time just to fine a standard block and standard crankshaft... we have the money that is not a problem it is the machine shops and getting parts that just killed me... anyway your videos are a life saver and good quality i still got to get the radiator cleaned out and buy new hoses and heater hoses i got a new air filter was a little used... this bronco will be used everyday and be pulling a 26 foot boat to go fishing very far trips.. Haha fun times ...
Hell yeah John! Glad to hear you got all your parts in. Still a shame how long it takes to get parts these days. It’s even pushed back a few of my videos. Nice thing is, that’s gonna be one cool bronco when you get it all together! And it will for sure tow that boat of yours! 🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters when i was under that 1995 bronco i saw brake fluid leaking on Right rear tire,,, the wheel cylinder leaking wow... i am a ASE Brake tech, so i had to remove the rear wheel cylinders both sides and i replace them and installed a brake spring kit. the shoes looked new and drums mic good so i did a complete brake flush and next week i will remove front wheel bearing and replace them. i just did a transmission drain and fill with a new filter. i did change out the torque converter pump seal and drained out the fluid in the converter it was black so old very sad for my son just bought this bronco and it was very neglected so sad... i installed a new $145 battery 850CC and new cables and a new alternator 100 AMP... i replaced a lot of things rocker arms and push tubes new they were just worn out this engine had 202885 miles on it everything was done... new radiator and hoses ... heater hoses... plugs cap and rotor and wires all from Ford Dealership.new block bored out to .030 new crankshaft at a std on main and rod journals i am so lucky to fine a virgin crankshaft that polish up and is good ... wow what a fine.. anyway i gave my son the bronco back 2 days ago and he drove it to work today and he is so happy it has been 14 months it has been down...
@@johncasor9698 Love it John! These are the kinds of stories I like to hear! 🤙 You did quite a bit of work to that Bronco and I’m glad your son loves it!
So I’ve watched a few of your other videos which have been very helpful with my 94 F150. This two part video has made me feel a little more comfortable about pulling the engine to replace the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket. Plus this will really let me look at everything and get it all nice and clean, since I am the 3rd owner of this truck and my goal is to restore it completely. Thanks for the videos they are super helpful
F.L.A.C Fishing Nice! I’m glad to hear that. Pulling an engine is much easier once you know the steps involved. I’m the 3rd owner too! So you will definitely have a similar experience. No problem man! 🤙 Thanks for watching!
Thanks for doing these two videos. I've been wanting to pull the 302 out of my 94 for years now to rebuild it and have always been a bit too intimidated to actually get around to doing it. But seeing how one dude was able to get it out in a couple of days really gives me confidence that I should be able to do it no problem.
You’re welcome Mark! 🤙 I really appreciate. This is what I like to hear. The trick to most of this is prep. Have the right tools, parts, and good tunes, and you will sail through this project.
good fun doing engine rebuilding you only get better and faster the more you do it... the real problem is: people will give you a lot of money to pull there's out and is very hard to say no to money when you know you can do the work on the weekends like i did for so many years... i have a place to do the work and the know how,,, with machine shops near by,,, it help me to pay for my House, just pull out engines and send them to the machine shop and reinstall them go to the next job ... at one time i had 3 engines torn down in my small one car garage parts everywhere and i was able to do all the jobs made money to feed the family pay for more tools just buying air tools & compressors and solvent cleaning tanks moving forward it got more busy here the words out more people started showing up and then it was transmission replacement i found 2 master transmission techs that need a place to do side jobs and i work out a deal i was the man to pull out and install the tranny they would rebuild trannys in my garage and it was on,, now very busy,,, it just got crazy these side jobs and the money just flowed in... Haha. good times...
@@johncasor9698 Thanks for sharing John! I’m a master plumber by trade and that’s how I got my start doing side jobs. Word gets out and the work starts to increase in flow. My UA-cam channel was the same way. I started out small and posting random videos. The OBS Fords clicked one I did my first video of my truck. Good old American entrepreneurship John! Thanks for sharing!🤙
It's kinda awesome how you just get out and do it! When I think of doing stuff like this I cringe, but now that I've seen your videos I'm a little more optimistic! Great job!
Charles Hoagland Thanks!🤙 I’ll be honest. I stared at the engine for about 5 minutes dreading to start this project. As I mentioned in the video, it’s normal to cringe and then you just have to put some music on, get jamming, and dive right into it. And of course smile! 🤙😁
Thanks man swapping a long block 5.8 in a 94 Bronco. Pulled 5 engines over the years but it’s been a long time so thanks again for the help. I can do this 😅😅
Working on finishing rebuilding a 302 out of my 94 F150 and this video helped me identify some parts I removed 4 years ago and couldn't remember where they went 😂
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I couldn't figure out where the lift hooks or exhaust heat shields went 😂 I did eventually get the wire harness and emissions lines figured out though since luckily they only fit one way
Just wanted to share a tip i figured out on my 87 for the fuel lines. Mine did not want to come apart at the qd fittings, might not have had the correct tool (im 23 with only self taught/bought experience and tools) but what i did was just use a flathead screw driver to pull the plastic 2 prong clips out of the fuel line where it goes into the filter, and pull the soft line out through the engine bay. High pressure line is only a foot long, low pressure return is a bit longer at around 3 or so. Then i took the fuel rail off the engine in disassembly and bam, good to go. That was eaier for me than continue fighting old qd lines that were a pain new
Bang! Gotta be first! Let's see what my buddy has up his sleeve! Ah ha! Nice work of course. That damn negative cable! Me, I'd a probably scribed a line around the upper hinge mounting surfaces and taken that whole hood off and laid it in the grass. Woulda loved to have helped you with that project buddy. As you know, I have a number of f-150's of that vintage. All roughly 94-95's Mine of course are the straight six's of which I love. Odd how they turn out to be about the same size as the V-8's but I just love a straight six. Anyway, for whatever reason, the pan gasket on those trucks seem to all wipe out at about 100K. I drove one of those truck on a 8 hour drive and it splashed so much oil out of the pan gasket, I had to stop every 30 mins or less to refill with Mobil One. VERY expensive trip that had to be made, but trust me, those gaskets got changed. But had to lift the motor out of the mounts to clear the pan. Wow! So, you may want to change the rear main, and pan gasket so you don't have to go here again for some time while everythings accessible and use quality gaskets. Nothing Chinese! Always such a pleasure to see you and your videos. Just happened to click on the beginning after seeing the ending and you DO look a bit different after that "hour" buddy. Thanks again!
Patrick PhippsPA Thanks Patrick! I hope you like it! There is not footage of me hoisting the engine out. I figured I’d leave that fun up to those who try this.🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Hehehe. Had to just get in there first and then come back. Love it when my email shows a new offering. This is no exception. Thanks Stevie!
I’m about to do this same thing tomorrow. Did a full rebuild, tearing my 94 down to the frame. Had the engine rebuilt, and finally drove it for the first time to find out a piston broke and rod bent. Now pulling the engine (less than one mile on it) to have it rebuilt again. I took off the front end for ease of pulling the engine out, but left the transmission in this time. I am worried about how lining up the engine/transmission will go.... hope you beat me to that and can watch how you do it!
Payton Utzman Wow! That’s incredible! I pulled a 300 from an 81 F100 for a rebuild and was nervous about that happening. So I’ll have the install video out next week. Otherwise you can watch my transmission install video and get an idea for mating the trans and engine.
well the new engine is running strong and so happy i saw your video on how to take on a 302 engine and just do it... Haha, now i can just watch the miles pile up on the new motor... they say after a month of running a new rebuilt engine then it should be fine for a long time if you did something wrong it show within 30 days,,,, a Master engine builder said that not me even i have rebuilt many of hundreds of gas and diesel engines it makes senses ... i recharge the A/C now working great but the dam heater and not blowing hot air into the cab ??? new radiator new heater core new hoses that do not have or need a restrictor in the hose,, some hoses have these little restrictor in them to slow down the hot water flow just so you know ... you want to look for that on some units.. but the blend door is working it just won't get hot air flowing into the cab yet i am still working on that...
My brother had his Ford i6 300 rebuilt and the rebuilder said after 100 miles the engine was good to go. So I agree with your master engine builder. After the first 30 days with no issues, engines are solid. I would check your vacuum lines. Those restrictors are usually vacuum controlled. I added on to my truck to help make the AC colder during the summer.
If possible, I would torque the engine mount bolts. If you can’t get a torque wrench on them, then just make sure they’re both down tight. Obviously all the bolts connecting the transmission to the engine have to be to torqued to a specific poundage.
Great video. I went in to do valve cover gaskets and broke a bolt. I ended up removing both heads and getting them reconditioned. At this point I'm thinking of pulling it out and doing everything on the stand. I've never done this but your video gives me some hope. I've watched it about 3 times to get more familiar with the process.. I just need to remove the trans bolts and move the ac compressor. I have a 92 bronco w 351. Just sold my 93 f150 short bed single cab w 5.0 (sad day). How many tons was your hoist?
Thanks man!🤙 That sucks but hey reconditioning the heads is always good. That is a sad day. Those short beds are fun trucks, but at least you have the bronco. Good question, a 1 or 2 ton hoist should do the trick. I believe the 351 is like 600 pounds. You may have to check. I always rented the hoist and typical they only rent large capacities hoists.
I used the engine lift brackets to hoist it out. Hoist brackets are pretty standard on most engines. However, if your engine doesn’t have them, I have bolted the hoist chains to the top of the lower intake manifold.
Question, first off, thanks for all your videos, I've watched them all. Currently swapping a long block. Is it easier to put engine back in with the upper intake manifold installed? I was wondering because you had to move your transmission back a inch. Thanks Matt Chattanooga Tennessee.
You are most welcome Matt! I’ve don’t it either way. Removing the upper intake does give you clearance. but with a little finesse, you can get the engine installed with the plenum on. I’d rather remove the hood next time I pull in so that I have unlimited upward clearance.
man thanks.. Where did u rent a hoist from, how did u get it home? I'm scared of it, but your videos are so encouraging, it makes me dare to want to try it...lol
Dee 1 You can rent engine hoists from just about any tool rental store. I don’t think Home Depot or Lowe’s rents them though. You can always check. If you go this route, you definitely need the chains and possibly and engine hoist leveler. I bought mine from Harbor freight. Hell yeah man! I believe anyone can do these kinds of things provided they have the right tools and equipment.
You should install some shorty exhaust headers while you have the engine out. Better flow then the stock cast manifold. Bonus is the summit shorty headers will bolt up to the stock y pipe.
Skitter302 I would love to do that but the budget and time isn’t right for it. However, I’m going to try and remove all the existing header bolts and replace them with stainless. This way they won’t rust and I can easily get them out when the time comes.
@@TheMinuteMasters Budget is a factor, we all can't do the "while your in there" items. If you want to do a tech tip video on how to remove exhaust bolts with out breaking them I'd watch. I plan on doing long tube headers on my 460 here soon.
Skitter302 I am think of doing a video on that. Right now I’m just hitting the bolts every day with penetrating oil. There is one stud that the threads rusted off. I also found one bolt completely loose.
My sons 1995 bronco 302 5.0L lost connecting rod 1 and 5 it had no oil getting to it.. pulled engine and dropped oil pan and found a oil pick-up tube screen plugged up with carbon type of burnt up crystallized oil it looks like coffee grounds... my son just bought this nice 1995 4x4 bronco $3800 in san diego and only had it for 3 months and boom it was done... i am a engine builder so no problem yank out motor and i have seen this before on a 1985 Dodge Ram 4x4 same thing it is oil burnt on exhause side of valve cover that just becomes hard and clumps together and the valve springs start to break it up and it drains back into the oil pan and gets stuck on the oil pick-up tube screen and no oil getting to the crank or rods on anything else... when it blew apart it took out the block / two rods / oil pan / crankshaft is maybe junk got super hot so maybe has cracks not sure yet going to have it check out soon. i found another crank and block, installed new everything... but your video is great and so glad you made it thank you ....
Good find! That will be a sweet Bronco when you get the engine back in it. Damn! That sounds about right. Is that from the California heat overheating the oil? Are you going to find donor engine or patch that one back? No problem John!🤙 I’m happy I can help you and your son out!
@@TheMinuteMasters just so you know: today i am going to install the brand new rebuild 5.0L bronco engine... i found a virgin block bored it out at .030 O/S got new oil pan it was damaged bad. new roller cam and lifters / one head was cracked junk replaced with 2 rebuilt heads. new oil pump/new oil pick-up tube/ new 3 piece timing chain set/cam bearing new/spark plugs new/ new dealer sparkplug wires only $54 which i am so happy the best wire set ever... new oil and temp sensors and new dealership sensors and i got new dealer thermostat only $12 FOR that which is real quality parts, now carquest auto parts wants $11 for a junk thermostat but check with the Dealership first on a price before every going to any auto parts store... i found a virgin crankshaft that polish out fine $50 to do that, but it is standard size main and rod journals, i am servicing the E4OD transmission & i did drain the torque converter and pulled it off & replaced the converter seal for only $7 yes that is a good move because when those leak they pour out fluid big time...got money in this one around $2500... i did all the tear down & reassembly of the engine which i have done many Hundreds of engines diesel/ gas engines but never a gas turbine engine which is a dream to work on one of those which can go up to 46 Thousand horse power wow just crazy power... but thank you so much for posting your videos really help me ...
If I don’t disconnect the trans from the engine but disconnect it from the drive shaft. Would i be able to take both engine and trans out at the same time?
Yup! I’ve done it that way with a straight 6 engine. You may need to remove the hood. Back in the day, guys would remove the radiator support/front clip.
I sure do! Get a large enough socket to fit over the crank pulley bolt. And turn that bolt using a breaker bar which should then spin your crankshaft which will then spin your flex plate.
If there aren't the attachment locations for the engine hoist what are my options to attach to in order to pull the engine? I'm pretty sure I have everything on my 92 disconnected but not sure how to now chain it up and pull it.....thanks for a response in advance. Your videos are awesome @The Minute Masters
Interesting. You’re the second person that has mentioned they don’t have factory engine hoist points attached to the engine. So there are a couple of ways you can hoist the engine out. First method is by removing the intake and bolting a plate to the top of your lower intake manifold. That plate typically has eye hooks on it. Second method, is bolting the chains from the hoist directly to the engine. I’ve done this on a straight six engine by removing the front accessories and bolting it there and then I found a threaded hole on the backside of the engine and bolted it there. Third method, if you can unbolt your exhaust manifolds, you can bolt the chains to exhaust manifold bolt holes. Last method, this one I have seen but not tried. You would get a couple of load straps or toe straps, wrap them around your engine to create a hammock/cradle/net and hoist the engine out using the loops at the ends.
@@michaelhunterhargiss331 If the manifold bolts are hefty, you can definitely use those. I would be careful though. I can’t remember if the lower intake manifold is steel or not. If steel, it should be plenty strong. Use as many bolts as possible to distribute the weight too.
@@TheMinuteMasters so I got the engine pulled with our tractor and it was a fun experience but it worked. Now what do I use to get the engine on the stand I bought? Is there specific hardware I can get to bolt the engine to the stand so i can start the cleaning and tear down process?
@@michaelhunterhargiss331 I used the hoist to bring the engine to the stand and mount it. Believe I used the transmission bell housing bolts to hold the engine to the stand. I don’t recall buying special bolts, although that’s not a bad idea.
There are two engine hoist brackets on the engine. They’re attached to the exhaust manifolds on both sides. Other methods include removing the intake manifold and bolting the chains to the lower intake manifold. You can also bolt the chains to the headers too.
@@TheMinuteMasters I found the one on the drivers side behind and to the right of the the A/C compressor. Now I'm going to look for the other! Thank you for the tip.
Nice!🤙 I’ve done it both ways. I’ve pulled a Ford 300 straight 6 with transmission out all together. It’s tricky and you have to tilt the crap out of it to get it over the radiator support. If you are doing this by yourself, I’d pull the engine and transmission separately. If you pull them separately, you can bolt the engine to a stand right away.
My truck is a 91 F-150 v8 302 5.0 I’m putting a new aluminum radiator, and I’m putting a crate engine in vin match, so I know it’s is going to be a lot easier taking it all out, this my first engine my dad is going to show me I’m a little nervous but my dad said it’s a peace of cake
@@markvalles3163 Sweet! Is it an EFI crate engine or a carbureted crate engine? Well for a first time, I would pull the engine and transmission separately. It’s also good practice for if you ever have to pull one or the other for future repairs.
I was pretty intimidated to do this to my 96 Bronco 5.8L, but your videos have gave me the confidence. Did you completely do this alone or was there a helper there with you? Thanks again!
Awesome. I’ll be doing it soon. And seriously, thanks a lot for your videos! I have a video of my bronco exhaust sound on my videos if you want to check it out. I love OBS Fords.
Rob No problem man! 🤙 I’m glad I can help you out. The trick to doing any of these larger projects it’s to make sure you have all the parts and tools you can possibly need. Nice! Yeah I’ll hear your exhaust. What’s your channel?
@@TheMinuteMasters Yeah, I can imagine I’ll be running into that problem. To watch the video I guess just click on my name and I only have 1 video. Thanks again and take care.
Thank you for a fantastic video. I've been toying with the idea of pulling my 302 from my 96 f150 to do some heavy modifying. Only difference is I have a manual transmission and plan on pulling it as well. Any suggestions for modifications that lean towards reliability but increased horsepower?
Thanks man!🤙 So I would call myself a horsepower expert by any means. However, I have heard the big problem with these engine is they can’t breath enough. So better flowing heads, roller rockers, aftermarket intake plenum (Edelbrock makes the RPM performer), cam shaft, and definitely headers. I know my HP wishlist would be better flowing heads, edelbrock intake plenum, and headers. I think those two things alone would wake up these engines.
@@TheMinuteMasters I've also heard that a bore and stroke helps considerably. (Not to say I would push it to a 347 stroker) but going a little over along with heads new intake would be an excellent combo. I had headers on it with dual exhaust but I had a terrible time getting them to seal up properly so I ended up going back to stock manifolds. 😬 It was heart breaking but the budget just wasn't there at the time for new headers. Any tips for getting them to seal up right?
Nicholas Parker Yeah stroking these engines increases HP big time but requires machining work. Everyone seems to have a problem getting headers to seal up. What brand did you use? I don’t have any advice because I put the stock manifold back on after I pulled the engine. The stock manifolds didn’t have a gasket from the factory but I put a gasket in after install.
@@TheMinuteMasters to be honest I'm not sure what the brand was they were used for about 10,000 miles on my friends truck then his motor spun a main bearing and he pulled it to put a 440 in. They were of good quality but the gaskets I got for them just didn't hold up. I got about 6000 miles before they started leaking and it came on quick. I just decided it was better to go back to stock and haven't had any issues since.
Nicholas Parker Gotcha. I’ve heard Headman are heavy duty and less prone to warping which is what causes the gasket leaks. Yeah until I hear of a full leak proof header, I’ll stay stock.
I have a 1988 F250 with a 7.3 IDI diesel engine. I'd like to do the same on it but swap in a good used replacement engine. I'm not afraid to jump in and do the job even though I've never pulled an engine. I just need a place to work on it, my driveway is too small and I don't have a garage. I've got all the tools to do it even an air compressor and air tools.
kman 4443 Nice man! I did a few minor repairs on a 7.3 IDI. 🤙 Well it sounds like you are up to the challenge man. Can you work on it in the street? Would your truck block your driveway if you worked on it there?
@@TheMinuteMasters No, I wouldn't want to work on the street, the neighbors would probably complain and people drive down my street like they're in the Daytona 500. My driveway is a possibility but lengthwise the truck takes up almost all of it. (its and extended cab long bed) If I parked the truck so it blocked the sidewalk at the end of my driveway, maybe it would be possible. I haven't found an engine yet, so I'm brainstorming what all I might need and the entire process. I know of a DIY garage that will rent you a bay to work in, but I'm trying to keep costs down so I can use it for other stuff. Since the engine will be out and I'm looking for a used replacement, I am setting aside money for things like a new mechanical fuel pump, maybe a flex plate depending on condition, and definitely a new a/c compressor and conversion kit as its the original and needs to be converted to R134a. I've heard from others that if you are converting to R134a and have an old compressor, just go ahead and get a new one because 8 out of 10 times the old one will fail soon after. Plus, like you, I need to rent a hoist and engine stand.
kman 4443 Gotcha. Sounds like if nobody minds you blocking the sidewalk, the driveway is the way to go. If you are worried about complaints, then you want to get everything ready and set. This way you can pull the engine and install the new one, in the same weekend. Nobody should complain about a project that lasts a weekend, especially now with everyone quarantined in their houses.
@@TheMinuteMasters You'd be surprised, there's always a complainer no matter what you do these days. You are right I'm starting to get all my "ducks in a row" in terms of tools, supplies, and parts I want to or might need to replace. Project management makes the process go smoother usually. I would definitely plan to pull and install the new engine in a weekend and shoot for a goal of 100 to 90 percent complete by the end of the weekend. I'm still in the planning stage, I need to find a good, reasonably priced 7.3 engine to install.
kman 4443 That’s true. Some people can’t mind their own business. Good man! You have the right idea! If you can’t find a whole 7.3, short blocks sometimes are easier to find. Otherwise, you could get a junkyard engine and have it rebuilt.
That’s a good question! I would try to pull both the engine and transmission out at the same time. This way you have full access all the way around the bell housing. Otherwise, it’s pretty simple. If you can’t rotate the flywheel/flex plate, when you pull the engine and transmission apart, the torque converter will remain attached to the flex plate. With the bell housing no longer surrounding the torque converter, you can access all four bolts.
iTreyyHD So I actually couldn’t get that pipe off. The clamp was too rusted on. So I disconnected that tube near the top just behind the engine. There’s a rubber hose that connects that exhaust tube to the engine while isolating the vibration of the engine and movement in the exhaust.
Budget mostly. I pulled the engine to weld a crack in the engine crossmember. Trust me, I would have loved to build it. At the very least, I wish I could have installed headers.
well my sons 2005 duramax just blew a head gasket on the diesel Dealership wants 7 thousand to replace the head gaskets WOW... this is a crazy amount of money just for head gaskets ,,, but these Duramax diesels have aluminum heads and are famous for head gasket problems and at 250K ON the engine i am going to remove the heads and send them out to the machine shop for milling them flat and presser testing for cracks,,, head gasket kit is like 400 dollars and i need a new coolant pump too it blew out the seals in the pump seal on the shaft from the big presser from the head gasket problem,,, anyway just another day and another problem going to install a new starter in the 1990 FXRP Harley Davidson the starter i installed went out after 8 months i took it back and they bench tested it and said it was good, but they never load tested it on a bike ,, you really need to test most things under normal running conditions to really be sure...
That is an insane amount of money for a head gasket replacement. Why so high? Is there a lot to remove to replace them or is it all of the machining work that’s involved? I agree. Load testing under normal conditions is important. I feel like engineers miss that sometimes in their designs.
@@TheMinuteMasters i told my son not to buy a Diesel for i am a Diesel Tech for 23 years and work on Diesels everyday and see how much it cost for parts and labor... but he had to buy a brand new 2005 GMC Duramax for 63 thousand with a dealership 6'' lift kit with 36'' tires and a Bully Dog speed chip and it is a supper fast truck,, A California Highway Patrol officer pulled HIM over last year getting on the freeway because the truck was so fast and wanted to look under the HOOD and my son said no problem the cop said wow this is a very fast GMC TRUCK and let him go no ticket he was impressed ....
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the encouragement! I did it as you did, but I think because it was never apart before the torque converter yanked out with the motor even with the bolts out. It dropped a lot of atf fluid. Is this a bad thing? Not much of a trans guy, I know you yanked your trans a while back.
@@Backyardwrenching1243 no problem man! 🤙 as long as the TC didn’t fall to far it should be good. If it took a hit, I’m not sure if that’s a good thing.
Thinking about pulling the engine gives me lots of anxiety but the vibe and attitude in your video is encouraging...thanks man!!
That’s what I like to hear! Thanks man!🤙
Todays the big day installing the Brand New 5.0L 302cid engine so happy ... machine shops here in DAGO are very slow at doing anything 2 months to do a valve job it use to be 3 days... what happen is most of the machine shop in san diego shut down and the few left are back log big time. it took many months just to get parts and 2 months to get a cam... just killed me on time this bronco has been down for 11 months, it took a lot of time just to fine a standard block and standard crankshaft... we have the money that is not a problem it is the machine shops and getting parts that just killed me... anyway your videos are a life saver and good quality i still got to get the radiator cleaned out and buy new hoses and heater hoses i got a new air filter was a little used... this bronco will be used everyday and be pulling a 26 foot boat to go fishing very far trips.. Haha fun times ...
Hell yeah John! Glad to hear you got all your parts in. Still a shame how long it takes to get parts these days. It’s even pushed back a few of my videos. Nice thing is, that’s gonna be one cool bronco when you get it all together! And it will for sure tow that boat of yours! 🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters when i was under that 1995 bronco i saw brake fluid leaking on Right rear tire,,, the wheel cylinder leaking wow... i am a ASE Brake tech, so i had to remove the rear wheel cylinders both sides and i replace them and installed a brake spring kit. the shoes looked new and drums mic good so i did a complete brake flush and next week i will remove front wheel bearing and replace them. i just did a transmission drain and fill with a new filter. i did change out the torque converter pump seal and drained out the fluid in the converter it was black so old very sad for my son just bought this bronco and it was very neglected so sad... i installed a new $145 battery 850CC and new cables and a new alternator 100 AMP... i replaced a lot of things rocker arms and push tubes new they were just worn out this engine had 202885 miles on it everything was done... new radiator and hoses ... heater hoses... plugs cap and rotor and wires all from Ford Dealership.new block bored out to .030 new crankshaft at a std on main and rod journals i am so lucky to fine a virgin crankshaft that polish up and is good ... wow what a fine.. anyway i gave my son the bronco back 2 days ago and he drove it to work today and he is so happy it has been 14 months it has been down...
@@johncasor9698 Love it John! These are the kinds of stories I like to hear! 🤙 You did quite a bit of work to that Bronco and I’m glad your son loves it!
So I’ve watched a few of your other videos which have been very helpful with my 94 F150. This two part video has made me feel a little more comfortable about pulling the engine to replace the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket. Plus this will really let me look at everything and get it all nice and clean, since I am the 3rd owner of this truck and my goal is to restore it completely. Thanks for the videos they are super helpful
F.L.A.C Fishing Nice! I’m glad to hear that. Pulling an engine is much easier once you know the steps involved. I’m the 3rd owner too! So you will definitely have a similar experience.
No problem man! 🤙 Thanks for watching!
Thanks for doing these two videos. I've been wanting to pull the 302 out of my 94 for years now to rebuild it and have always been a bit too intimidated to actually get around to doing it. But seeing how one dude was able to get it out in a couple of days really gives me confidence that I should be able to do it no problem.
You’re welcome Mark! 🤙 I really appreciate. This is what I like to hear. The trick to most of this is prep. Have the right tools, parts, and good tunes, and you will sail through this project.
good fun doing engine rebuilding you only get better and faster the more you do it... the real problem is: people will give you a lot of money to pull there's out and is very hard to say no to money when you know you can do the work on the weekends like i did for so many years... i have a place to do the work and the know how,,, with machine shops near by,,, it help me to pay for my House, just pull out engines and send them to the machine shop and reinstall them go to the next job ... at one time i had 3 engines torn down in my small one car garage parts everywhere and i was able to do all the jobs made money to feed the family pay for more tools just buying air tools & compressors and solvent cleaning tanks moving forward it got more busy here the words out more people started showing up and then it was transmission replacement i found 2 master transmission techs that need a place to do side jobs and i work out a deal i was the man to pull out and install the tranny they would rebuild trannys in my garage and it was on,, now very busy,,, it just got crazy these side jobs and the money just flowed in... Haha. good times...
@@johncasor9698 Thanks for sharing John! I’m a master plumber by trade and that’s how I got my start doing side jobs. Word gets out and the work starts to increase in flow. My UA-cam channel was the same way. I started out small and posting random videos. The OBS Fords clicked one I did my first video of my truck. Good old American entrepreneurship John! Thanks for sharing!🤙
@@johncasor9698 its nice when revenue comes organically on its own. thats awesome man
It's kinda awesome how you just get out and do it! When I think of doing stuff like this I cringe, but now that I've seen your videos I'm a little more optimistic! Great job!
Charles Hoagland Thanks!🤙 I’ll be honest. I stared at the engine for about 5 minutes dreading to start this project. As I mentioned in the video, it’s normal to cringe and then you just have to put some music on, get jamming, and dive right into it. And of course smile! 🤙😁
I keep hearing a leader in these videos. Methinks Stevie should start political office and we'll have better government in our lifetime. Who knew?
Camas Haha! I that be nice to get into politics and make a difference. Cut taxes big time so I can afford more mods for my truck! 🤙🤙
I thought taxes HAD been cut big time. They are much lower than when I was your age. But we digress. My bad.@@TheMinuteMasters
Camas I would like them even lower.
Iol no problem! 🤙
This was great man, thanks so much for the detailed step by step!
You’re welcome! 🤙 I’m glad it helped you out!
Keep up the good attitude
Great job
You have lots of patience to explain to us viewers
VERY HELPFUL
Thanks man! I appreciate it!🤙
Thanks man swapping a long block 5.8 in a 94 Bronco. Pulled 5 engines over the years but it’s been a long time so thanks again for the help. I can do this 😅😅
Thanks. Very easy to understand and good vibe compare to other videos that only confuses me and give anxiety.
Thanks man!🤙 I’m glad I could help you out! Good to know I have the right vibe too!
By the way, I love the way you make it sound so easy.😅
I mean the process is easy but definitely has its challenges. A stubborn nut or bolt can hang your up for 10-15 minutes.
Working on finishing rebuilding a 302 out of my 94 F150 and this video helped me identify some parts I removed 4 years ago and couldn't remember where they went 😂
Nice! I’ll glad I could help you get those parts back on! Damn! 😂 That’s a good long time!
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I couldn't figure out where the lift hooks or exhaust heat shields went 😂 I did eventually get the wire harness and emissions lines figured out though since luckily they only fit one way
@@ericterrill1785 hahahaha! It least it was those parts. This is true. Electrical plugs are great that way.
Just wanted to share a tip i figured out on my 87 for the fuel lines. Mine did not want to come apart at the qd fittings, might not have had the correct tool (im 23 with only self taught/bought experience and tools) but what i did was just use a flathead screw driver to pull the plastic 2 prong clips out of the fuel line where it goes into the filter, and pull the soft line out through the engine bay. High pressure line is only a foot long, low pressure return is a bit longer at around 3 or so. Then i took the fuel rail off the engine in disassembly and bam, good to go. That was eaier for me than continue fighting old qd lines that were a pain new
Bang! Gotta be first! Let's see what my buddy has up his sleeve! Ah ha! Nice work of course. That damn negative cable! Me, I'd a probably scribed a line around the upper hinge mounting surfaces and taken that whole hood off and laid it in the grass. Woulda loved to have helped you with that project buddy. As you know, I have a number of f-150's of that vintage. All roughly 94-95's Mine of course are the straight six's of which I love. Odd how they turn out to be about the same size as the V-8's but I just love a straight six. Anyway, for whatever reason, the pan gasket on those trucks seem to all wipe out at about 100K. I drove one of those truck on a 8 hour drive and it splashed so much oil out of the pan gasket, I had to stop every 30 mins or less to refill with Mobil One. VERY expensive trip that had to be made, but trust me, those gaskets got changed. But had to lift the motor out of the mounts to clear the pan. Wow! So, you may want to change the rear main, and pan gasket so you don't have to go here again for some time while everythings accessible and use quality gaskets. Nothing Chinese! Always such a pleasure to see you and your videos. Just happened to click on the beginning after seeing the ending and you DO look a bit different after that "hour" buddy. Thanks again!
Patrick PhippsPA Thanks Patrick! I hope you like it! There is not footage of me hoisting the engine out. I figured I’d leave that fun up to those who try this.🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Hehehe. Had to just get in there first and then come back. Love it when my email shows a new offering. This is no exception. Thanks Stevie!
Patrick PhippsPA Hahaha Thanks Patrick! Ill keep the videos coming then!🤙
Thanks for doing what you did. I didn’t know about the torque converter boltss
You’re welcome William!🤙 Yeah those bolts hang a lot of people up.
Much appreciated. I gotta follow this pretty much right now. Actually part one I'm just getting started on..
No problem man!🤙 Happy to help you out! Good luck pulling your engine!
I’m about to do this same thing tomorrow. Did a full rebuild, tearing my 94 down to the frame. Had the engine rebuilt, and finally drove it for the first time to find out a piston broke and rod bent. Now pulling the engine (less than one mile on it) to have it rebuilt again. I took off the front end for ease of pulling the engine out, but left the transmission in this time. I am worried about how lining up the engine/transmission will go.... hope you beat me to that and can watch how you do it!
Payton Utzman Wow! That’s incredible! I pulled a 300 from an 81 F100 for a rebuild and was nervous about that happening. So I’ll have the install video out next week. Otherwise you can watch my transmission install video and get an idea for mating the trans and engine.
Nice job.. looking forward to how you gona put it back.
fabjac Santi Thanks man! 🤙 I’m hoping it goes back in the way I took it out! Lol
well the new engine is running strong and so happy i saw your video on how to take on a 302 engine and just do it... Haha, now i can just watch the miles pile up on the new motor... they say after a month of running a new rebuilt engine then it should be fine for a long time if you did something wrong it show within 30 days,,,, a Master engine builder said that not me even i have rebuilt many of hundreds of gas and diesel engines it makes senses ... i recharge the A/C now working great but the dam heater and not blowing hot air into the cab ??? new radiator new heater core new hoses that do not have or need a restrictor in the hose,, some hoses have these little restrictor in them to slow down the hot water flow just so you know ... you want to look for that on some units.. but the blend door is working it just won't get hot air flowing into the cab yet i am still working on that...
My brother had his Ford i6 300 rebuilt and the rebuilder said after 100 miles the engine was good to go. So I agree with your master engine builder. After the first 30 days with no issues, engines are solid.
I would check your vacuum lines. Those restrictors are usually vacuum controlled. I added on to my truck to help make the AC colder during the summer.
I have to know, when putting the engine in, any bolts need to be done with a torque wrench?
If possible, I would torque the engine mount bolts. If you can’t get a torque wrench on them, then just make sure they’re both down tight.
Obviously all the bolts connecting the transmission to the engine have to be to torqued to a specific poundage.
Great video man! I'm in the process of taking out my 5.0 302. How many bolts are there exactly on the transmisson holding the engine?
Thanks Nathan!🤙 That’s a good question. I can’t remember exactly but I think there’s at least six.
Great video. I went in to do valve cover gaskets and broke a bolt. I ended up removing both heads and getting them reconditioned. At this point I'm thinking of pulling it out and doing everything on the stand. I've never done this but your video gives me some hope. I've watched it about 3 times to get more familiar with the process.. I just need to remove the trans bolts and move the ac compressor. I have a 92 bronco w 351. Just sold my 93 f150 short bed single cab w 5.0 (sad day).
How many tons was your hoist?
Thanks man!🤙 That sucks but hey reconditioning the heads is always good.
That is a sad day. Those short beds are fun trucks, but at least you have the bronco.
Good question, a 1 or 2 ton hoist should do the trick. I believe the 351 is like 600 pounds. You may have to check. I always rented the hoist and typical they only rent large capacities hoists.
How did you attach the hoist chain to the motor, did you use engine lift brackets? If so are those pretty standard for all ford motors?
I used the engine lift brackets to hoist it out. Hoist brackets are pretty standard on most engines. However, if your engine doesn’t have them, I have bolted the hoist chains to the top of the lower intake manifold.
Question, first off, thanks for all your videos, I've watched them all.
Currently swapping a long block. Is it easier to put engine back in with the upper intake manifold installed? I was wondering because you had to move your transmission back a inch.
Thanks Matt Chattanooga Tennessee.
You are most welcome Matt!
I’ve don’t it either way. Removing the upper intake does give you clearance. but with a little finesse, you can get the engine installed with the plenum on. I’d rather remove the hood next time I pull in so that I have unlimited upward clearance.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks. I have the hood off already. I'll give it a try with it on. Appreciate it
Great EXPLANATION
man thanks..
Where did u rent a hoist from, how did u get it home?
I'm scared of it, but your videos are so encouraging,
it makes me dare to want to try it...lol
Dee 1 You can rent engine hoists from just about any tool rental store. I don’t think Home Depot or Lowe’s rents them though. You can always check. If you go this route, you definitely need the chains and possibly and engine hoist leveler. I bought mine from Harbor freight.
Hell yeah man! I believe anyone can do these kinds of things provided they have the right tools and equipment.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks..
Dee 1 No problem man! 🤙 Good luck!
You should install some shorty exhaust headers while you have the engine out. Better flow then the stock cast manifold. Bonus is the summit shorty headers will bolt up to the stock y pipe.
Skitter302 I would love to do that but the budget and time isn’t right for it. However, I’m going to try and remove all the existing header bolts and replace them with stainless. This way they won’t rust and I can easily get them out when the time comes.
@@TheMinuteMasters Budget is a factor, we all can't do the "while your in there" items. If you want to do a tech tip video on how to remove exhaust bolts with out breaking them I'd watch. I plan on doing long tube headers on my 460 here soon.
Skitter302 I am think of doing a video on that. Right now I’m just hitting the bolts every day with penetrating oil. There is one stud that the threads rusted off. I also found one bolt completely loose.
My sons 1995 bronco 302 5.0L lost connecting rod 1 and 5 it had no oil getting to it.. pulled engine and dropped oil pan and found a oil pick-up tube screen plugged up with carbon type of burnt up crystallized oil it looks like coffee grounds... my son just bought this nice 1995 4x4 bronco $3800 in san diego and only had it for 3 months and boom it was done... i am a engine builder so no problem yank out motor and i have seen this before on a 1985 Dodge Ram 4x4 same thing it is oil burnt on exhause side of valve cover that just becomes hard and clumps together and the valve springs start to break it up and it drains back into the oil pan and gets stuck on the oil pick-up tube screen and no oil getting to the crank or rods on anything else... when it blew apart it took out the block / two rods / oil pan / crankshaft is maybe junk got super hot so maybe has cracks not sure yet going to have it check out soon. i found another crank and block, installed new everything... but your video is great and so glad you made it thank you ....
Good find! That will be a sweet Bronco when you get the engine back in it. Damn! That sounds about right. Is that from the California heat overheating the oil?
Are you going to find donor engine or patch that one back?
No problem John!🤙 I’m happy I can help you and your son out!
@@TheMinuteMasters just so you know: today i am going to install the brand new rebuild 5.0L bronco engine... i found a virgin block bored it out at .030 O/S got new oil pan it was damaged bad. new roller cam and lifters / one head was cracked junk replaced with 2 rebuilt heads. new oil pump/new oil pick-up tube/ new 3 piece timing chain set/cam bearing new/spark plugs new/ new dealer sparkplug wires only $54 which i am so happy the best wire set ever... new oil and temp sensors and new dealership sensors and i got new dealer thermostat only $12 FOR that which is real quality parts, now carquest auto parts wants $11 for a junk thermostat but check with the Dealership first on a price before every going to any auto parts store... i found a virgin crankshaft that polish out fine $50 to do that, but it is standard size main and rod journals, i am servicing the E4OD transmission & i did drain the torque converter and pulled it off & replaced the converter seal for only $7 yes that is a good move because when those leak they pour out fluid big time...got money in this one around $2500... i did all the tear down & reassembly of the engine which i have done many Hundreds of engines diesel/ gas engines but never a gas turbine engine which is a dream to work on one of those which can go up to 46 Thousand horse power wow just crazy power... but thank you so much for posting your videos really help me ...
What bolts did u use to mount them length and gtade
If I remember correctly, I used the transmission bell housing bolts to mount the engine to the stand.
If I don’t disconnect the trans from the engine but disconnect it from the drive shaft. Would i be able to take both engine and trans out at the same time?
Yup! I’ve done it that way with a straight 6 engine. You may need to remove the hood. Back in the day, guys would remove the radiator support/front clip.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks boss. All your videos are such a huge help
@@daultonmcintee7367 You’re welcome Daulton! Thanks for watching!🤙
Hope you still check this. Im lost as to how you move the flywheel to get to the 4 flex plate nuts
I sure do! Get a large enough socket to fit over the crank pulley bolt. And turn that bolt using a breaker bar which should then spin your crankshaft which will then spin your flex plate.
If you want a better video on it, some of my newer transmission videos show you how to do it.
If there aren't the attachment locations for the engine hoist what are my options to attach to in order to pull the engine? I'm pretty sure I have everything on my 92 disconnected but not sure how to now chain it up and pull it.....thanks for a response in advance.
Your videos are awesome
@The Minute Masters
Interesting. You’re the second person that has mentioned they don’t have factory engine hoist points attached to the engine.
So there are a couple of ways you can hoist the engine out.
First method is by removing the intake and bolting a plate to the top of your lower intake manifold. That plate typically has eye hooks on it.
Second method, is bolting the chains from the hoist directly to the engine. I’ve done this on a straight six engine by removing the front accessories and bolting it there and then I found a threaded hole on the backside of the engine and bolted it there.
Third method, if you can unbolt your exhaust manifolds, you can bolt the chains to exhaust manifold bolt holes.
Last method, this one I have seen but not tried. You would get a couple of load straps or toe straps, wrap them around your engine to create a hammock/cradle/net and hoist the engine out using the loops at the ends.
@@TheMinuteMasters would I just use the manifold bolts to hook in that way? I have the manifold disconnected actually so that sounds like the go to
@@michaelhunterhargiss331 If the manifold bolts are hefty, you can definitely use those. I would be careful though. I can’t remember if the lower intake manifold is steel or not. If steel, it should be plenty strong. Use as many bolts as possible to distribute the weight too.
@@TheMinuteMasters so I got the engine pulled with our tractor and it was a fun experience but it worked. Now what do I use to get the engine on the stand I bought?
Is there specific hardware I can get to bolt the engine to the stand so i can start the cleaning and tear down process?
@@michaelhunterhargiss331 I used the hoist to bring the engine to the stand and mount it. Believe I used the transmission bell housing bolts to hold the engine to the stand. I don’t recall buying special bolts, although that’s not a bad idea.
What did you attach the chain to on the back of the engine?
There are two engine hoist brackets on the engine. They’re attached to the exhaust manifolds on both sides.
Other methods include removing the intake manifold and bolting the chains to the lower intake manifold. You can also bolt the chains to the headers too.
@@TheMinuteMasters I found the one on the drivers side behind and to the right of the the A/C compressor. Now I'm going to look for the other! Thank you for the tip.
@@emilmaki3001 No problem man!🤙 Good luck!
Yea we love you bro
Thanks man!🤙
Do you have to remove the fuel injectors?
Nope, you can leave them in place.
In an hour 😂 love that
Is this an aod or an e40d transmission?
It’s a 4R70w/AODE
@TheMinuteMasters thanks. Whats the part number on the fuel line disconnect tool?
@@shad0w307 I don’t remember offhand, but you can find them in the miscellaneous tools, section of most auto parts stores.
I’m taking the engine and transmission out of my truck and it’s the exact same truck as yours is it easier taking the transmission out with the engine
Nice!🤙 I’ve done it both ways. I’ve pulled a Ford 300 straight 6 with transmission out all together. It’s tricky and you have to tilt the crap out of it to get it over the radiator support.
If you are doing this by yourself, I’d pull the engine and transmission separately. If you pull them separately, you can bolt the engine to a stand right away.
My truck is a 91 F-150 v8 302 5.0 I’m putting a new aluminum radiator, and I’m putting a crate engine in vin match, so I know it’s is going to be a lot easier taking it all out, this my first engine my dad is going to show me I’m a little nervous but my dad said it’s a peace of cake
@@markvalles3163 Sweet! Is it an EFI crate engine or a carbureted crate engine?
Well for a first time, I would pull the engine and transmission separately. It’s also good practice for if you ever have to pull one or the other for future repairs.
I was pretty intimidated to do this to my 96 Bronco 5.8L, but your videos have gave me the confidence. Did you completely do this alone or was there a helper there with you?
Thanks again!
That’s what I like to hear! I did do this all by myself. My dad hopped in for a few seconds for the install but I still could have done it by myself.
Awesome. I’ll be doing it soon. And seriously, thanks a lot for your videos! I have a video of my bronco exhaust sound on my videos if you want to check it out. I love OBS Fords.
Rob No problem man! 🤙 I’m glad I can help you out. The trick to doing any of these larger projects it’s to make sure you have all the parts and tools you can possibly need.
Nice! Yeah I’ll hear your exhaust. What’s your channel?
@@TheMinuteMasters Yeah, I can imagine I’ll be running into that problem. To watch the video I guess just click on my name and I only have 1 video. Thanks again and take care.
Rob Love the exhaust man! What muffler did you use?
No problem man! 🤙 Good luck!
Thank you for a fantastic video. I've been toying with the idea of pulling my 302 from my 96 f150 to do some heavy modifying. Only difference is I have a manual transmission and plan on pulling it as well. Any suggestions for modifications that lean towards reliability but increased horsepower?
Thanks man!🤙 So I would call myself a horsepower expert by any means. However, I have heard the big problem with these engine is they can’t breath enough. So better flowing heads, roller rockers, aftermarket intake plenum (Edelbrock makes the RPM performer), cam shaft, and definitely headers.
I know my HP wishlist would be better flowing heads, edelbrock intake plenum, and headers. I think those two things alone would wake up these engines.
@@TheMinuteMasters I've also heard that a bore and stroke helps considerably. (Not to say I would push it to a 347 stroker) but going a little over along with heads new intake would be an excellent combo. I had headers on it with dual exhaust but I had a terrible time getting them to seal up properly so I ended up going back to stock manifolds. 😬 It was heart breaking but the budget just wasn't there at the time for new headers. Any tips for getting them to seal up right?
Nicholas Parker Yeah stroking these engines increases HP big time but requires machining work.
Everyone seems to have a problem getting headers to seal up. What brand did you use? I don’t have any advice because I put the stock manifold back on after I pulled the engine. The stock manifolds didn’t have a gasket from the factory but I put a gasket in after install.
@@TheMinuteMasters to be honest I'm not sure what the brand was they were used for about 10,000 miles on my friends truck then his motor spun a main bearing and he pulled it to put a 440 in. They were of good quality but the gaskets I got for them just didn't hold up. I got about 6000 miles before they started leaking and it came on quick. I just decided it was better to go back to stock and haven't had any issues since.
Nicholas Parker Gotcha. I’ve heard Headman are heavy duty and less prone to warping which is what causes the gasket leaks. Yeah until I hear of a full leak proof header, I’ll stay stock.
Great vid well explaned !!!!
Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Where can I get the lifting eyes?
The eye loops that are attached to the headers?
@@TheMinuteMasters yes
@@zackwedemeyer7497 They should come attached to the headers from the factory. Otherwise, I think you may have to find a set in the junkyard.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok
@@TheMinuteMasters also what happened with that pain in the a** emissions thing?
I have a 1988 F250 with a 7.3 IDI diesel engine. I'd like to do the same on it but swap in a good used replacement engine. I'm not afraid to jump in and do the job even though I've never pulled an engine. I just need a place to work on it, my driveway is too small and I don't have a garage. I've got all the tools to do it even an air compressor and air tools.
kman 4443 Nice man! I did a few minor repairs on a 7.3 IDI. 🤙 Well it sounds like you are up to the challenge man. Can you work on it in the street? Would your truck block your driveway if you worked on it there?
@@TheMinuteMasters No, I wouldn't want to work on the street, the neighbors would probably complain and people drive down my street like they're in the Daytona 500. My driveway is a possibility but lengthwise the truck takes up almost all of it. (its and extended cab long bed) If I parked the truck so it blocked the sidewalk at the end of my driveway, maybe it would be possible. I haven't found an engine yet, so I'm brainstorming what all I might need and the entire process. I know of a DIY garage that will rent you a bay to work in, but I'm trying to keep costs down so I can use it for other stuff. Since the engine will be out and I'm looking for a used replacement, I am setting aside money for things like a new mechanical fuel pump, maybe a flex plate depending on condition, and definitely a new a/c compressor and conversion kit as its the original and needs to be converted to R134a. I've heard from others that if you are converting to R134a and have an old compressor, just go ahead and get a new one because 8 out of 10 times the old one will fail soon after. Plus, like you, I need to rent a hoist and engine stand.
kman 4443 Gotcha. Sounds like if nobody minds you blocking the sidewalk, the driveway is the way to go. If you are worried about complaints, then you want to get everything ready and set. This way you can pull the engine and install the new one, in the same weekend. Nobody should complain about a project that lasts a weekend, especially now with everyone quarantined in their houses.
@@TheMinuteMasters You'd be surprised, there's always a complainer no matter what you do these days. You are right I'm starting to get all my "ducks in a row" in terms of tools, supplies, and parts I want to or might need to replace. Project management makes the process go smoother usually. I would definitely plan to pull and install the new engine in a weekend and shoot for a goal of 100 to 90 percent complete by the end of the weekend. I'm still in the planning stage, I need to find a good, reasonably priced 7.3 engine to install.
kman 4443 That’s true. Some people can’t mind their own business. Good man! You have the right idea! If you can’t find a whole 7.3, short blocks sometimes are easier to find. Otherwise, you could get a junkyard engine and have it rebuilt.
What would i do if my engine is blown up and the flywheel won't turn
That’s a good question! I would try to pull both the engine and transmission out at the same time. This way you have full access all the way around the bell housing. Otherwise, it’s pretty simple. If you can’t rotate the flywheel/flex plate, when you pull the engine and transmission apart, the torque converter will remain attached to the flex plate. With the bell housing no longer surrounding the torque converter, you can access all four bolts.
so much for that hour idea
Yup lol
What happened with the thing at 6:30
iTreyyHD So I actually couldn’t get that pipe off. The clamp was too rusted on. So I disconnected that tube near the top just behind the engine. There’s a rubber hose that connects that exhaust tube to the engine while isolating the vibration of the engine and movement in the exhaust.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok thanks man.
iTreyyHD No problem man! Thanks for watching!🤙
Do you have an email? I got a question about mine that I literally can’t find ANYWHERE on the internet
I sure do👇
sxtreacy@gmail.com
Why would you do all that trouble and not build that motor
Budget mostly. I pulled the engine to weld a crack in the engine crossmember. Trust me, I would have loved to build it. At the very least, I wish I could have installed headers.
well my sons 2005 duramax just blew a head gasket on the diesel Dealership wants 7 thousand to replace the head gaskets WOW... this is a crazy amount of money just for head gaskets ,,, but these Duramax diesels have aluminum heads and are famous for head gasket problems and at 250K ON the engine i am going to remove the heads and send them out to the machine shop for milling them flat and presser testing for cracks,,, head gasket kit is like 400 dollars and i need a new coolant pump too it blew out the seals in the pump seal on the shaft from the big presser from the head gasket problem,,, anyway just another day and another problem going to install a new starter in the 1990 FXRP Harley Davidson the starter i installed went out after 8 months i took it back and they bench tested it and said it was good, but they never load tested it on a bike ,, you really need to test most things under normal running conditions to really be sure...
That is an insane amount of money for a head gasket replacement. Why so high? Is there a lot to remove to replace them or is it all of the machining work that’s involved?
I agree. Load testing under normal conditions is important. I feel like engineers miss that sometimes in their designs.
@@TheMinuteMasters i told my son not to buy a Diesel for i am a Diesel Tech for 23 years and work on Diesels everyday and see how much it cost for parts and labor... but he had to buy a brand new 2005 GMC Duramax for 63 thousand with a dealership 6'' lift kit with 36'' tires and a Bully Dog speed chip and it is a supper fast truck,, A California Highway Patrol officer pulled HIM over last year getting on the freeway because the truck was so fast and wanted to look under the HOOD and my son said no problem the cop said wow this is a very fast GMC TRUCK and let him go no ticket he was impressed ....
nice job nice vid
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
just install the rear main seal... it is easy man...
Nice! 🤙 Yeah definitely not hard to replace at all.
Doing this rn 😬
Right on man!🤙 Good luck!
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the encouragement! I did it as you did, but I think because it was never apart before the torque converter yanked out with the motor even with the bolts out. It dropped a lot of atf fluid. Is this a bad thing? Not much of a trans guy, I know you yanked your trans a while back.
@@Backyardwrenching1243 no problem man! 🤙 as long as the TC didn’t fall to far it should be good. If it took a hit, I’m not sure if that’s a good thing.
Killed the body on my 94 =/
Im gonna pull then engine out for the next one
That’s sucks man. At least the engine is still good!🤙
That man has 4 feet of extensions!
Yup! lol
This shit is easy. Cmon, i already knew how to do this, i just wanted to see if you could...
Yeah, i can do this.