Did you put lighter springs in, on the needles. If they are the stock carb spring they may be to strong for the vacuum you have. That will make it run rich. I say this because of my experience with my Edelbrock. My vacuum is around 14 and when I slid the needle caps to the side while the engine was running they were bouncing up and down. Made my engine sound like I had a bigger cam. There wasn’t enough vacuum to over come those springs. So I bought the spring kit from Edelbrock and kept installing lighter spring until the needles stayed down at idle. Then it ran leaner and smoother. The trick it to install the strongest spring that your vacuum can hold down. So the second your engine starts to loose vacuum from pushing on the throttle those needles will spring up letting gas in.
Secondary recommendation would to go to a thicker metering rod next. If that doesn’t work, go stage 1 lean in cruise mode w a jet change on the primaries. The secondaries on these seemed to be tuned spot on most of the time. Simply adjust the flap for secondaries for more spring tension and on hard WOT shouldnt be any bog.
I really appreciate the straight up approach to this video. We don't have to hear about the weather, or last weeks trip to Nannas and we don't have to hear a story about UPS. Straight to the point. No Bullshit.
Manifold Vacuum...the port on the lower right side of the carb as you're looking at it from the front...If you're still unsure of which ports are which (manifold vs ported) you can Google an image for the vacuum ports of an Edelbrock
@@MoonBuiltGarage your title reads: "Carburetor Tuning with a Vacuum Gauge " I just adjusted the floats in my Edelbrock 1406 and don't remember using a vacuum gauge to do so. Thanks for taking the time to upload your videos.
@@CharlesFockaert Did you watch the whole video? It isn't worth taking the time to check your carb setup with the gauge if your floats aren't adjusted right...You'll end up chasing your tail if other parts of the tune aren't set up right
Did you put lighter springs in, on the needles.
If they are the stock carb spring they may be to strong for the vacuum you have. That will make it run rich.
I say this because of my experience with my Edelbrock.
My vacuum is around 14 and when I slid the needle caps to the side while the engine was running they were bouncing up and down.
Made my engine sound like I had a bigger cam.
There wasn’t enough vacuum to over come those springs. So I bought the spring kit from Edelbrock and kept installing lighter spring until the needles stayed down at idle.
Then it ran leaner and smoother.
The trick it to install the strongest spring that your vacuum can hold down.
So the second your engine starts to loose vacuum from pushing on the throttle those needles will spring up letting gas in.
This is spot on. I was about to type this exact thing.
Secondary recommendation would to go to a thicker metering rod next. If that doesn’t work, go stage 1 lean in cruise mode w a jet change on the primaries. The secondaries on these seemed to be tuned spot on most of the time. Simply adjust the flap for secondaries for more spring tension and on hard WOT shouldnt be any bog.
I really appreciate the straight up approach to this video. We don't have to hear about the weather, or last weeks trip to Nannas and we don't have to hear a story about UPS. Straight to the point. No Bullshit.
No you don't
Don't listen to him everyone, he's lying !
Is the tuning procedure pretty much that same for all Carter carburetors? I have a C4-AFB model. Number 9637S
ALWAYS remove the carburetor before disassembling it. Drop one small part down your intake and you will learn the hard way.
Amateur
Power tune timing first! Advance until it pinks up hill in high gear and back off one nudge so it stops pinking. Then start on the carb.
You cpuldve saved the first linute just by saying "the carb needed rebuilding so i rebuilt it"
Then I would have gotten comments saying I should have shown the rebuild....can't satisfy everyone
Which port did you connect the vacuum gauge to??
Manifold Vacuum...the port on the lower right side of the carb as you're looking at it from the front...If you're still unsure of which ports are which (manifold vs ported) you can Google an image for the vacuum ports of an Edelbrock
Man. I watched the whole vid waiting to see where I connect the vacuum gauge.
1:04 in you can see the vacuum hose connected to the port on the carb....and again at 8:55...and again at 12:41...
The fuel level affects the entire fuel curve, high fuel level enrich the fuel curve, low fuel level dose the opposite, leans the fuel curve.
Edelbrock recommends 6psi to maybe 6.5 so you're right on.
I'm in Vegas, could you help me adjust my friends nova
Possibly....might make a good video...
That was very helpful! Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful!
vid more on setting float levels than engine tuning
That is part of carb tuning 🙄
@@MoonBuiltGarage your title reads: "Carburetor Tuning with a Vacuum Gauge "
I just adjusted the floats in my Edelbrock 1406 and don't remember using a vacuum gauge to do so. Thanks for taking the time to upload your videos.
@@CharlesFockaert Did you watch the whole video? It isn't worth taking the time to check your carb setup with the gauge if your floats aren't adjusted right...You'll end up chasing your tail if other parts of the tune aren't set up right
Where is your garage located...?
Right now...about 3 feet from Hell....Also known as Las Vegas
@@MoonBuiltGarage I thought hell was Arizona hahaha
@MoonBuilt Garage you guys must have never been to the depths at the bottom of hell named Atlanta Georgia 😔
Has anyone tried deleting the float and maintaing the fuel pressure to the disired level