Are you using the same motor and controller. If so you will be so happy with that combo. The battery seems quite large, is that 20S20P? I have 1/2 that now at 42AH (Sony VTC6 cells 20S14P 18650 size) Your battery has to weigh 60lbs + . What type of riding do you do, that should give you about 50+ miles of single track. I ride moto tracks, and I am thinking of going to quick change battery 20S12P Molicel, with a quick change system. My bike weighs 221lbs with 42AH battery. ElectroandCompany.com just lowered their kit price on the QS V3 motor and EM260 controller $200 to about $1467 out the door.
@Donald Cox yep same setup. It's liquid cooled. Many helped me get it all. Electro tuned it. The battery is very big. 400 20s 20p molicel 21700 cells. It does weight about 65lbs. Haha.
@Donald Cox yeah he really does. Things have come a long way over the years. I started building bikes back in 2014. Luke live for physics was my inspiration back then. 😀
i have a 2013 yz250f how does this work do you send it a place and they do it? do you buy the parts online and you have to do it yourself? how much is it? i am very curious
Here is a rough estimate of a build. Motor and controller form China direct. $900, Motor and Controller kit from ElectroandCompany.com, $1500. There is value in E&C with there software and support, and an easy to put together kit. To do the work of putting a bike together I charge $1000-1500. a 20S12P battery for this bike is $2000-2500, battery charger and case. So you are right at what I am asking for the KTM and you could sell the Yamaha. I helped a guy in Utah with his build of a 2008 YZ450F, He got a bigger battery in it. 20S16P. Check out his build. electricdirtriders.com/threads/2008-yz450f-electric-conversion.3570/#post-38296
Here is a quick Reel on my latest build at Glen Helen Big track. Same motor, Controller and battery. instagram.com/reel/CxI6ZkppduN/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
I hope to get some good track video soon, here is a link to a Pro riding a Honda CRF 250 with the same Motor/Controller/Battery, at Glen Helen ua-cam.com/video/wpCnW2bwSnM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CasMoto I hope to get all three bikes, the 2017 KTM, the Yamaha YZ, and the CRF all with the same motor/controller/and battery, out to Glen Helen within the next few weeks.
@@dcoxryton Look forward to seeing some video of that! Motor seems strong in that video. If you're using the 42ah battery in that CRF, how much juice was left after those 5 min of riding?
@@bayoolukotun3485 The battery wasn't full charged when I took off, it as about 80V. I looked at it yesterday and it was 77V . With that battery, I can get about 10 laps on our local MX track. At that time it is in the high 60V range or 70V. But you can feel the power reduction. I had this battery in another bike, different motor/controller, but about the same current draw.
Man you are quick to watch that. this was so fun to build. I think the YZF 2014 and newer frame is the best bike to adapt. As you can see on my channel I have modified a lot of bikes but this one can allow to make a quick battery change system also. I can send you a couple of pictures, or send me $20 and your address, and I'll send you about 50 images and a video on a USB stick..
@@Moto18cdude Yes I did have the Xemx1 motor on the bike before, but neither he nor I can get the Sevcon's or the Curtis's to stop dropping out off a jump, or under sudden load. The QS motor and Votol Controller is smaller and weighs 19 lbs less, for the same power the are getting. Power is not the issue, because most people use only about 250 to 350A, and the Votol also gives flux weakening, which gives you more RPM in Boost mode.
I have tried many different controllers. My first experience was Kelly In a few DC Perm Mag motors. They worked as advertised a 400A controller put out 400A. So when I went to PMAC motors, I had a good experience with Kelly, so I went with a Kelly KLS72701. It worked and I was able to program it and make all kind of adjustments, but I could never get over 280A, and it would fault on serious acceleration. It was advertised to put out 700A but only put out 280A. Disappointing. Then I tried a Sevcon 72V 550A controller. A Programming nightmare and / or an expensive programing experience. I could never get this to work well. Then I built a KX80 with the QS138 70Hv3 motor and the Votol EM150SP/2, what a dream. I bought it from Electroandcompany.com programmed and ready to go. They have been flawless. The program comes working perfectly, but it is very easy to make slight personal adjustments or changes. I have built 5 bikes now with this combo or the QS138 70H V3 and EM260SP/2 controller and all have been the same experience. Great. You can get 450A out of the EM260 controller, but as far as I know the Votol only work well with the QS series of motors.
@@dcoxryton When you say you get 450a out of the em260 do you mean battery current or phase amps? Im currently looking at a battery with a 300a continuous 500a peak discharge but im not sure if this controller with allow me to use all of that power.
@@DJMallieMall Yes, I currently have my EM260SP/2 set for 400A battery current in mode 3. All my references to current are Battery Current. What cells are are they using in that battery you are looking at, and what quantity, that may be rated powers, not real world power. But you should still see 450A peak. My battery 20S14P VTC6 18650 cells only gives me 380A, They are rated at 30AH each cell, and should give me 420A, but I see this on all the batteries I have built, about 10% real world less than advertised. VTC6 or the other cell I have used, Molicel 21700 P42A, about a 10% lose off there advertised current also. A 20S8P Molicel pack only gave me 320A not 360A. But I put 2 of these packs on the KTM (there are YouTudes on my channel with this bike) for real world power of 640A. He is only running at 350A, and gets 40 miles of single track riding with that. If you run the controller to 450A, and I know of someone who has, he says you need to watercool the controller. We all are average to Pro riders, and find 250-300A is more than enough for power. It is friqing crazy at 370A. We haven't tested any of our bikes in a real race yet, but here is a pro rider riding at 250A on the Glen Helen main track on a week day with the QS V3 motor and the EM260SP/2 controller on a CRF . ua-cam.com/video/wpCnW2bwSnM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CasMoto
@@dcoxryton If im correct the desc of the battery says lifepo4 cells but i got another question. I'm still trying to see if i even need 300/500a anyways. After doing a little bit of research a lot of people who run these very high amps are usually for dirt bikes. I'm building a street bike but im trying to hit a top speed anywhere between 70-90 mph 70 being the minimum but im not 100% sure how much power i need and im stuck between the sabvoton or votol controllers. I was originally looking at 150a continous to 300a pulse batteries with either a votol 150, votol 200, or sabvoton 72200. Do you feel 150/200a continous is enough? I honestly only started looking at higher amps to get the most out of my qs 138 90h but i dont want to over heat anything especially because i really didn't plan on watercooling.
@@dcoxryton Oh yeah and im new to the ebike scene. I'm working on my second project. My first one i messed up the battery not realizing i was putting to much amps in it so i gotta get that one a new battery lol. but ive been researching for the last few weeks and im not quite finding all the info i need so ive been stressing a little.
Hey David, this is looking good!! I have a question for you, are you able to get the bike over 55mph? When I hit about 51-55 it hits a hard wall like there is a restriction but I cant find it in the settings. I just upgraded to a 84v battery and it still hits that limit. Any Idea??
Are you running the same motor and controller? I don't know what the max Speed is, no speedometer. Do you have a system from ElectroandCompany. If so They set it up for Mode 1, Mode 2 are normal and Mode 3 is set to Boost mode. Boost Mode gives you Flux weakening, which on my bike, you notice the speed increase. ( actual RPM increase) My battery is close to 84V.
@@scottpurcell2813 I'm interested in building the same type of setup and want about an 80 mph top speed. What was the trick (and what size rear sprocket are you running)?
Donald, thanks for sharing this. I recently picked up a 2013 RM 250 and would like to duplicate what you've done. Also interested in the motor and battery mounts as I believe the frames are very similar. May I ask where you bought the battery from? Thanks. Mike.
Thanks. Send me an email address, and I will send you some pictures of the build. I built the batteries. You need at least 350 continuous Amps. Many choices. ElectroandCompany.com have the motor/ controller kit and batteries. 1 x 34AH battery isn't quite enough, you will only see about 320A. I put 2 this size in a 2017 full size KTM ( videos on my channel also) That is adequate. 40 mile range and full power. 2 x 25AH batteries from E&C.com Will get you full power, but not the range. They are pretty pricy. I can build custom batteries, but they cost also. This company makes one also that would work 51AH but the size is the fit a Surron bike , about 6 x 6 x17.5 chibatterysystems.com/collections/batteries/products/72max Lots of ideas, let me know if I can help
@@mcapo77 Did I ever answer you about the battery. We just got some new methods of battery building. Fusible links via waterjetting. What dimension battery will fit your application
@@dcoxryton Don, I've got a plan worked out with the kit from electro & Co. They put up some new batteries on their site but I wanted to get your opinion on them. I'm looking at the 76V 48 AH but they're showing a 300A cont discharge. You've recommended 350A cont discharge. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Each of my battery packs can put out 200A's . The controller is now set at 400A. I saw 370A on the meter, but it's pretty sketchy wicking the bike and looking at the meter, and how high is the front end going up... 350A is a solid number. I use #4 welding cable for the main power cables. #6 from each battery.
No Contactors. I use a battery cutoff switch (BEP Battery Switch $31 on Amazon. If you buy the cheaper ones the switch does not come out for a security system), with a precharge resistor, 1K10W, and an Inline ANL fuse ,300-400A
Thanks. I have the battery in 2 packs. Each is a 20S7P VTC6 Sony cells. I have a 10Amp charger for each one. Since 110VAC is the most common source here in the states, smaller quieter generators, etc. The industrial 220V generators make too much noise, and noise pollute the pits.
@@dcoxryton thank you for the information! I’ve done two of these builds myself. My first dirt bike build was with a rm 85 and the second a ktm 380. Both bikes I used 3.2v 20ah A123 cells because not just the high discharge but also the charge rate allowing me to fully charge the battery my battery in under 1.5 hours with the average house hold 110v outlet.
Hey Don! What a clean build. I'm Controller/Motor shopping for my 2020 crf450r build at the moment. I have to admit, I thought the QS138 was a bit on the weaker side for motor options.. What are your thoughts on this? How's the power comparison to say a 250cc gas bike? Are you thinking of maybe a QS180 90H in the future at some point?
The QS 138 70H V3 is definitely the power of a 250CC you can even run it up to 450A, and have even more. Here is a youtube of this combo at Glen Helen on a 2004 CRF frame. He is running at 250A. He said he wanted a little more on the uphills, but every where else was fine. ua-cam.com/video/n9BlsPAM4-o/v-deo.html The width of the QS138 90H motor is going to be too wide with the gear reduction. The QS 138 70H V3 impedes on the brake pedal space, and barely fits. If you want more power, like 450 power, a company XEMX1.com has a motor gearbox combo with a quick change battery, but it is all built for the 2014 and newer YZ bikes. It is a ME 1302 inside with a new CnC'ed gearbox/case. He is using a Curtis controller.
Check out this video at Glen Helen of my friend on his 2010 Honda CRF with the same motor and controller (QS 138 70H V3 and EM260) and a 20S12P Molicel P42A Battery. ua-cam.com/video/Mmfd10CqUks/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CasMoto
I have gone on a 12 mile desert ride, and got home with just about 1/2 battery (71V). 72V is 1/2. But on the track I get about 8-10 laps, depending on the track, and it is about 70V. At about 70-71V the power is lower, and you notice it. So at the track I don't like to go below that. I am going to a larger and redesigned battery. Still 2 packs , but only using the BMS for Charge control, and moving the BMS outside of the battery box, so that it can cool. We are getting problems charging the battery, after a hard ride, because the BMS is overheating. Keep watching, and I will have a new battery build youtube soon.
Yes I would sell you this bike for $6000. That is a bargain. $1600 for Motor / controller / programmed, $1000 for 2014 YZ250F donor bike, $2400 for 2.8KW battery, Sony VTC6 20S14P. 42AH , $1000 to put it all together. Or I could build your donor bike, Yamaha 2014 or newer, KTM 2014 and newer, Honda CRF 2005-2014. I have a 2006 YZ450F aluminum frame complete Donor bike for $1000. The rest of the costs are above
Check out this CRF with the same motor and controller at Glen Helen ua-cam.com/video/wpCnW2bwSnM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CasMoto This ride was at 250A The bikes I talked about before with the Sony battery can give you 370A. A bigger battery could give you 450A
Sweet, don't no how much you paid for bike? I assume you buy them with blown engines, but battery and kit right around 2 grand, basically you get a full size bike, with proven suspension, for about what you pay for a Surron light bee 🐝 basically a rugged mtb that to be fun, you have to pour more money in it. Love what you do, awesome bike, to get similar bike from ebike company 12000$
You give me a roller, no motor, exhaust, electronics, and $4500- $6000 dollars, I will give you a running electric Bike. The variance, is what size battery you want. 2014 Yamaha or newer, 2017 or newer KTM SX, 2004 and newer CRF are all good donors we have experience with. But we can do others
@@dcoxryton i think 🤔 i could do it under $3000, not counting any shock work it might need and tires, qs motor 3000w peak 12000w , kit is under a grand,ect. Thanks for the inspiration, happy trails
Austin and the gang at Electro and Co. rock.
that torque is ridiculous!
Yes and fun. Watch this UA-cam in Mode 3 on the track ua-cam.com/video/Py7pRdK_1UA/v-deo.html&ab_channel=DonaldCox
Awesome work Donald.
Nice bike sir!!! In mode 3 is a beast!!!
Hello Antonio. This motor/controller is the Bomb for a combo.
Excellent build and performance! Thanks for the demo. What's the battery voltage?
Nice bike👍 and bell😅
I have a KX250F I'm putting together with a 84ah 72v Molicel battery. It will push 450a DC making it a ripper. peaking around 36kw.
Are you using the same motor and controller. If so you will be so happy with that combo. The battery seems quite large, is that 20S20P? I have 1/2 that now at 42AH (Sony VTC6 cells 20S14P 18650 size) Your battery has to weigh 60lbs + . What type of riding do you do, that should give you about 50+ miles of single track. I ride moto tracks, and I am thinking of going to quick change battery 20S12P Molicel, with a quick change system. My bike weighs 221lbs with 42AH battery. ElectroandCompany.com just lowered their kit price on the QS V3 motor and EM260 controller $200 to about $1467 out the door.
@Donald Cox yep same setup. It's liquid cooled. Many helped me get it all. Electro tuned it.
The battery is very big. 400 20s 20p molicel 21700 cells. It does weight about 65lbs. Haha.
@@DevinLindstrom You are in good hands. Manny knows his stuff.
@Donald Cox yeah he really does. Things have come a long way over the years. I started building bikes back in 2014. Luke live for physics was my inspiration back then. 😀
Omg congratulation
i have a 2013 yz250f how does this work do you send it a place and they do it? do you buy the parts online and you have to do it yourself? how much is it? i am very curious
Here is a rough estimate of a build. Motor and controller form China direct. $900, Motor and Controller kit from ElectroandCompany.com, $1500. There is value in E&C with there software and support, and an easy to put together kit. To do the work of putting a bike together I charge $1000-1500. a 20S12P battery for this bike is $2000-2500, battery charger and case. So you are right at what I am asking for the KTM and you could sell the Yamaha. I helped a guy in Utah with his build of a 2008 YZ450F, He got a bigger battery in it. 20S16P. Check out his build. electricdirtriders.com/threads/2008-yz450f-electric-conversion.3570/#post-38296
How powerful is it compared to a gas engine? It doesnt look very fast maybe like 250cc or less?
Here is a quick Reel on my latest build at Glen Helen Big track. Same motor, Controller and battery. instagram.com/reel/CxI6ZkppduN/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Thank you for the video, do u plan on doing any videos at the motocross track or trail riding?
I hope to get some good track video soon, here is a link to a Pro riding a Honda CRF 250 with the same Motor/Controller/Battery, at Glen Helen
ua-cam.com/video/wpCnW2bwSnM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CasMoto
I hope to get all three bikes, the 2017 KTM, the Yamaha YZ, and the CRF all with the same motor/controller/and battery, out to Glen Helen within the next few weeks.
@@dcoxryton thank you, look forward to more of your content. Thank you for sharing
@@dcoxryton Look forward to seeing some video of that! Motor seems strong in that video. If you're using the 42ah battery in that CRF, how much juice was left after those 5 min of riding?
@@bayoolukotun3485 The battery wasn't full charged when I took off, it as about 80V. I looked at it yesterday and it was 77V . With that battery, I can get about 10 laps on our local MX track. At that time it is in the high 60V range or 70V. But you can feel the power reduction. I had this battery in another bike, different motor/controller, but about the same current draw.
I don't suppose you could show me how you made the motor mounts
Man you are quick to watch that. this was so fun to build. I think the YZF 2014 and newer frame is the best bike to adapt. As you can see on my channel I have modified a lot of bikes but this one can allow to make a quick battery change system also. I can send you a couple of pictures, or send me $20 and your address, and I'll send you about 50 images and a video on a USB stick..
@@dcoxryton is there a social media you use Facebook or Twitter. I originally saw you got one of mark's emx motor kits.
@@Moto18cdude Yes I did have the Xemx1 motor on the bike before, but neither he nor I can get the Sevcon's or the Curtis's to stop dropping out off a jump, or under sudden load. The QS motor and Votol Controller is smaller and weighs 19 lbs less, for the same power the are getting. Power is not the issue, because most people use only about 250 to 350A, and the Votol also gives flux weakening, which gives you more RPM in Boost mode.
I am Donald Cox on Facebook
Could you do a short video on the controllers you have used? I have a Fardriver ND96530 but looking at Votol or Kelly
I have tried many different controllers. My first experience was Kelly In a few DC Perm Mag motors. They worked as advertised a 400A controller put out 400A. So when I went to PMAC motors, I had a good experience with Kelly, so I went with a Kelly KLS72701. It worked and I was able to program it and make all kind of adjustments, but I could never get over 280A, and it would fault on serious acceleration. It was advertised to put out 700A but only put out 280A. Disappointing. Then I tried a Sevcon 72V 550A controller. A Programming nightmare and / or an expensive programing experience. I could never get this to work well. Then I built a KX80 with the QS138 70Hv3 motor and the Votol EM150SP/2, what a dream. I bought it from Electroandcompany.com programmed and ready to go. They have been flawless. The program comes working perfectly, but it is very easy to make slight personal adjustments or changes. I have built 5 bikes now with this combo or the QS138 70H V3 and EM260SP/2 controller and all have been the same experience. Great. You can get 450A out of the EM260 controller, but as far as I know the Votol only work well with the QS series of motors.
@@dcoxryton When you say you get 450a out of the em260 do you mean battery current or phase amps? Im currently looking at a battery with a 300a continuous 500a peak discharge but im not sure if this controller with allow me to use all of that power.
@@DJMallieMall Yes, I currently have my EM260SP/2 set for 400A battery current in mode 3. All my references to current are Battery Current. What cells are are they using in that battery you are looking at, and what quantity, that may be rated powers, not real world power. But you should still see 450A peak. My battery 20S14P VTC6 18650 cells only gives me 380A, They are rated at 30AH each cell, and should give me 420A, but I see this on all the batteries I have built, about 10% real world less than advertised. VTC6 or the other cell I have used, Molicel 21700 P42A, about a 10% lose off there advertised current also. A 20S8P Molicel pack only gave me 320A not 360A. But I put 2 of these packs on the KTM (there are YouTudes on my channel with this bike) for real world power of 640A. He is only running at 350A, and gets 40 miles of single track riding with that. If you run the controller to 450A, and I know of someone who has, he says you need to watercool the controller. We all are average to Pro riders, and find 250-300A is more than enough for power. It is friqing crazy at 370A. We haven't tested any of our bikes in a real race yet, but here is a pro rider riding at 250A on the Glen Helen main track on a week day with the QS V3 motor and the EM260SP/2 controller on a CRF . ua-cam.com/video/wpCnW2bwSnM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CasMoto
@@dcoxryton If im correct the desc of the battery says lifepo4 cells but i got another question. I'm still trying to see if i even need 300/500a anyways. After doing a little bit of research a lot of people who run these very high amps are usually for dirt bikes. I'm building a street bike but im trying to hit a top speed anywhere between 70-90 mph 70 being the minimum but im not 100% sure how much power i need and im stuck between the sabvoton or votol controllers. I was originally looking at 150a continous to 300a pulse batteries with either a votol 150, votol 200, or sabvoton 72200. Do you feel 150/200a continous is enough? I honestly only started looking at higher amps to get the most out of my qs 138 90h but i dont want to over heat anything especially because i really didn't plan on watercooling.
@@dcoxryton Oh yeah and im new to the ebike scene. I'm working on my second project. My first one i messed up the battery not realizing i was putting to much amps in it so i gotta get that one a new battery lol. but ive been researching for the last few weeks and im not quite finding all the info i need so ive been stressing a little.
Hey David, this is looking good!! I have a question for you, are you able to get the bike over 55mph? When I hit about 51-55 it hits a hard wall like there is a restriction but I cant find it in the settings. I just upgraded to a 84v battery and it still hits that limit. Any Idea??
Are you running the same motor and controller? I don't know what the max Speed is, no speedometer. Do you have a system from ElectroandCompany. If so They set it up for Mode 1, Mode 2 are normal and Mode 3 is set to Boost mode. Boost Mode gives you Flux weakening, which on my bike, you notice the speed increase. ( actual RPM increase) My battery is close to 84V.
@@dcoxryton I figured it out and now it rips to 80mph
@@scottpurcell2813 I'm interested in building the same type of setup and want about an 80 mph top speed. What was the trick (and what size rear sprocket are you running)?
@@travisshrey6720 I am running a 520 chain, 13t front sprocket 51t rear. on the controller: SPORT MODE SETUP: current limiting(A): 400, separate
@@scottpurcell2813 You have the controller that Don uses from Electro&Co?
Nice ⚡️⚡️
Donald, thanks for sharing this. I recently picked up a 2013 RM 250 and would like to duplicate what you've done. Also interested in the motor and battery mounts as I believe the frames are very similar. May I ask where you bought the battery from? Thanks. Mike.
Thanks. Send me an email address, and I will send you some pictures of the build. I built the batteries. You need at least 350 continuous Amps. Many choices. ElectroandCompany.com have the motor/ controller kit and batteries. 1 x 34AH battery isn't quite enough, you will only see about 320A. I put 2 this size in a 2017 full size KTM ( videos on my channel also) That is adequate. 40 mile range and full power. 2 x 25AH batteries from E&C.com Will get you full power, but not the range. They are pretty pricy. I can build custom batteries, but they cost also.
This company makes one also that would work 51AH but the size is the fit a Surron bike , about 6 x 6 x17.5
chibatterysystems.com/collections/batteries/products/72max
Lots of ideas, let me know if I can help
@@dcoxryton If you could make me a custom battery that would fit my application I would be interested. I shared my email address above. Thanks.
@@dcoxryton are you using 18650 or 21700 cells?
@@mcapo77 Did I ever answer you about the battery. We just got some new methods of battery building. Fusible links via waterjetting. What dimension battery will fit your application
@@dcoxryton Don, I've got a plan worked out with the kit from electro & Co. They put up some new batteries on their site but I wanted to get your opinion on them. I'm looking at the 76V 48 AH but they're showing a 300A cont discharge. You've recommended 350A cont discharge. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Very nice! What’s your max bus bar current?
Each of my battery packs can put out 200A's . The controller is now set at 400A. I saw 370A on the meter, but it's pretty sketchy wicking the bike and looking at the meter, and how high is the front end going up... 350A is a solid number. I use #4 welding cable for the main power cables. #6 from each battery.
Nice video. Do you use contactors in your builds? Precharge circuits?
No Contactors. I use a battery cutoff switch (BEP Battery Switch $31 on Amazon. If you buy the cheaper ones the switch does not come out for a security system), with a precharge resistor, 1K10W, and an Inline ANL fuse ,300-400A
Love the builds! Curios on what the max charge rate is for your battery?
Thanks. I have the battery in 2 packs. Each is a 20S7P VTC6 Sony cells. I have a 10Amp charger for each one. Since 110VAC is the most common source here in the states, smaller quieter generators, etc. The industrial 220V generators make too much noise, and noise pollute the pits.
@@dcoxryton thank you for the information! I’ve done two of these builds myself. My first dirt bike build was with a rm 85 and the second a ktm 380. Both bikes I used 3.2v 20ah A123 cells because not just the high discharge but also the charge rate allowing me to fully charge the battery my battery in under 1.5 hours with the average house hold 110v outlet.
@@iyakab777 i was hoping to see a video of your build on your channel.
do you share youe motor mount and battery mount with public i would do the same to my bike
Check it out here: electricdirtriders.com/threads/yz250f-2014-build-with-qs-138-70h-v3-motor-and-450a-controller-part-1-and-part-2.2733/#post-32888
Hey Don! What a clean build. I'm Controller/Motor shopping for my 2020 crf450r build at the moment. I have to admit, I thought the QS138 was a bit on the weaker side for motor options.. What are your thoughts on this? How's the power comparison to say a 250cc gas bike? Are you thinking of maybe a QS180 90H in the future at some point?
The QS 138 70H V3 is definitely the power of a 250CC you can even run it up to 450A, and have even more. Here is a youtube of this combo at Glen Helen on a 2004 CRF frame. He is running at 250A. He said he wanted a little more on the uphills, but every where else was fine.
ua-cam.com/video/n9BlsPAM4-o/v-deo.html
The width of the QS138 90H motor is going to be too wide with the gear reduction. The QS 138 70H V3 impedes on the brake pedal space, and barely fits. If you want more power, like 450 power, a company XEMX1.com has a motor gearbox combo with a quick change battery, but it is all built for the 2014 and newer YZ bikes. It is a ME 1302 inside with a new CnC'ed gearbox/case. He is using a Curtis controller.
Check out this video at Glen Helen of my friend on his 2010 Honda CRF with the same motor and controller (QS 138 70H V3 and EM260) and a 20S12P Molicel P42A Battery. ua-cam.com/video/Mmfd10CqUks/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CasMoto
How long does the battery last?
I have gone on a 12 mile desert ride, and got home with just about 1/2 battery (71V). 72V is 1/2. But on the track I get about 8-10 laps, depending on the track, and it is about 70V. At about 70-71V the power is lower, and you notice it. So at the track I don't like to go below that. I am going to a larger and redesigned battery. Still 2 packs , but only using the BMS for Charge control, and moving the BMS outside of the battery box, so that it can cool. We are getting problems charging the battery, after a hard ride, because the BMS is overheating. Keep watching, and I will have a new battery build youtube soon.
0-30?
Anything for sale?
Yes I would sell you this bike for $6000. That is a bargain. $1600 for Motor / controller / programmed, $1000 for 2014 YZ250F donor bike, $2400 for 2.8KW battery, Sony VTC6 20S14P. 42AH , $1000 to put it all together. Or I could build your donor bike, Yamaha 2014 or newer, KTM 2014 and newer, Honda CRF 2005-2014. I have a 2006 YZ450F aluminum frame complete Donor bike for $1000. The rest of the costs are above
Check out this CRF with the same motor and controller at Glen Helen ua-cam.com/video/wpCnW2bwSnM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CasMoto
This ride was at 250A The bikes I talked about before with the Sony battery can give you 370A. A bigger battery could give you 450A
Sweet, don't no how much you paid for bike? I assume you buy them with blown engines, but battery and kit right around 2 grand, basically you get a full size bike, with proven suspension, for about what you pay for a Surron light bee 🐝 basically a rugged mtb that to be fun, you have to pour more money in it. Love what you do, awesome bike, to get similar bike from ebike company 12000$
You give me a roller, no motor, exhaust, electronics, and $4500- $6000 dollars, I will give you a running electric Bike. The variance, is what size battery you want. 2014 Yamaha or newer, 2017 or newer KTM SX, 2004 and newer CRF are all good donors we have experience with. But we can do others
@@dcoxryton i think 🤔 i could do it under $3000, not counting any shock work it might need and tires, qs motor 3000w peak 12000w , kit is under a grand,ect. Thanks for the inspiration, happy trails
@@liamneal5325 Good luck.
@@dcoxryton hehehe
Thank you, way to fast for me, I will pick the slower motor 😳