Will help loads as I have to replace drop links on a dacia sandero, would have struggled getting enough thread to show on the bolt. EDIT: All sorted the only thing that gave me slight bother was driving out the old links, they were rusted and swollen and the centre bush was welded onto them, but got through it in the end, jacking up the control arm and sway bar is very helpful. Jack the control arm when removing, install the centre bush and put the link through the top, lower the jack, jack up the sway bar install the lower bush and nut, all good. Thanks again Also you don't even need to use the torx, just have it jacked up by the sway bar and it'll put enough pressure on it for you to be able to tighten the bottom nut.
Hi, I know this video is pretty old now but just thought I would let you know it helped me alot in changing my 2003 clio drop links. I did as you recommended and not over tighten the nylock not to stop the rubber from squashing out too much, but apparently according to autodoc you have to torque the nut up to 55nm which seems excessive to me. Anyway I appreciate your help and clio tutorials 👍
Amazing videos and same car as mine which is very handy :) thanks very much for making them. I'm going to attempt to put new springs and shock absorbers on my car over the weekend....feeling much more confident about it now after watching your other videos..thanks again :)
If you take your time and make sure you've got enough tools, you'll be fine. No aspect is hard, just a little time consuming. Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad the videos help.
Took my time and done both sides, and what a difference its made. You were right, not too difficult...and the time consuming bit came from compression the old and new springs up and down which I done by hand. But good exercise and I have that warm fuzzy felling of having saved £200 from the garage quote ha ha. Thanks again :) lookpic.com/O/i2/874/LlavYJbv.jpeg
Great video, Did u have any symptoms from these failing like knocking or steering issues? Mine have gone on my sandero but was told they are still decent at the moment
Hi mate, I have a 2001 Renault Clio and the advisory is - * Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i)) * Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i)) - Is this video demonstrating what my advisories are? Thanks mate, love the video
Any tips for the *inner* anti-roll bar bushes? I got my old one off, but squashing the new bush enough to get the clamp lined up to be tightened up again seems *impossible*! Now I can't even squeeze the old one on again. It seems some superhuman strength is required.
Ah, no worries. They're fairly standard split D-bushes, held in by a metal shell which latches to the subframe at one end and bolts on at the other end. My problem was the replacements I had bought had a 22mm hole, but I have a 25mm ARB (1.5 DCi Mk II), so no chance of squashing it on. There's lots of confusion about the right ARB diameter for each model. Did get the original bushes back on in the end but it's still a major pain in the ass. If you do ever tackle it, be prepared for a fight. Easier with the ARB end links disconnect to relieve all tension. One knack is to get a small g-clamp, tighten the ARB shell with new bush in place with the clamp *over* the bolt hole, then use 2 mole grips to hold the ARB shell in place, remove the g-clamp and insert and tighten the bolt up as normal.
great wee video mate. mrs droplinks are much worse looking than they were mot next week so getting them ordered right now lol.. did you get a noticeable clunk especially when cornering and hitting a pothole cause thats exactly what i have changed other bits that had play these are the last bits to do,
I think it clunked a little less than other cars, probably because it's a rubber bushing rather than a steel ball joint. Regardless when they're this cheap you might as well chuck on a new set and see if it works.
I'm having really difficulties getting the but on I've tried the method you tried but still I'm quite fa away from getting the threads through even though the pin is all the way down to the bottom. Any help would be great? Thank you
Hy Ryan, all I can suggest is finding a way to compress the central part of the bushing even further, without damaging it. You could try a large G-clamp to squeeze it more?
@@KomradeShotabollokov thank you for getting back to me I will give that a go not sure why it's giving me so much trouble. Great video by the way really informative. Thank you
A bloody good idea. No idea why I didn't think to look for polyurethane bushes last time... The drop links on the car now are perishing again and are nearly worn out so I'll take a look online and replace in time for my MOT in the summer. The standard drop links only seem to last about 20,000 - 30,000 miles for me.
Komrade Shotabollokov strongflex ones will cost around 25 pounds shipped for the pair dependent on shipping I'm using their bushes in my dogbone mount and the casts seem much better than the powerflex ones
Thanks for the link. I did consider a poly bush for the dog bone mount years ago but as my Clio is diesel and I value my teeth, I decided against it. Is yours a diesel? If so, how bad is the vibration?
Komrade Shotabollokov 1.4 16v petrol Have had the mounts for few months and the vibration is only really noticeable at 1000-1700 rpm bit otherwise yummy (I like a massage chair so doesn't bother me) Diesel might be annoying for u
Do they need to be replaced in pairs? I have an advisory for the Offside and I am assuming this is what they meant for Link thing, Also the part that you bought the replacement for is it both the Bushing and Link that come together or you mentioned the bolt comes. I managed to find this could you confirm whether this is the part? www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-anti-roll-bar-link-614745059
That looks exactly like what I bought. I wouldn't say that they have to be replaced in pairs although I think they come as a pair and it is best practice.
@@KomradeShotabollokov Thank you, I will look to hopefully get this sorted intime for the next MOT! Thank you so much for your series of videos on this car! Has helped alot!
It's more likely to be rust due to the salt used on the roads in the UK in winter. I've had ABS rings fail due to this before and I expect it will happen to these at some point, too.
Just wondering, why did you replace the whole lower suspension arm? Did it need replacing, or maybe the ball joint did? Could you only get the new ball joint complete with suspension arm?
You can replace the ball joint on its own but that wasn't the problem: the lower arm bushes were worn and I did not want to spend the time pressing new ones in. I don't have a hydraulic press and valued my time more than the price of new parts. I think I made a video about the arms (showing the state of the worn bushes).
@@KomradeShotabollokov Ok, fair enough, I just wondered because I need a new lower ball joint on one side (but I'm going to replace both). Mine are unusual for the Clio, in that the bolts are M12, not M10. I couldn't find an aftermarket part for the M12 ones, and was told that they only came as an assembly with a new arm. In fact, I found that ball joints for the Scenic/Megane should fit, and I ordered 2 of these. I'm just now waiting for a dry spell to see if they fit ok.. Are yours M10, or M12?
I can't remember to be honest, apologies. If the bolts that fit your lower arm are different to all others you've seen, are you sure that the lower arms haven't been replaced with unusual ones in the past? I wonder if they're from a more powerful clio which may use bigger bolts?
@@KomradeShotabollokov No, they've never been replaced as far as I remember, and I've had the car from new. I don't think the M12 ones are that unusual, I've seen several cases where people have raised this question. Do you remember the part no of the ball joint you fitted? I'll probably have a look at my car today, and see if I can fit one of the new ones. I'll let you know if it fits...
I agree, and on a component that fails so regularly too. I have changed my mental outlook on them now: I simply accept that I'll need to change them once per year (or maybe once each 2 years) unlike proper drop links with ball joints on a steel rod that last many years. At least these Renault ones are very cheap...
![How to change front anti roll bar link on RENAULT CLIO 3 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/N_Mdi8WV4fE/mqdefault.jpg)
Will help loads as I have to replace drop links on a dacia sandero, would have struggled getting enough thread to show on the bolt.
EDIT: All sorted the only thing that gave me slight bother was driving out the old links, they were rusted and swollen and the centre bush was welded onto them, but got through it in the end, jacking up the control arm and sway bar is very helpful. Jack the control arm when removing, install the centre bush and put the link through the top, lower the jack, jack up the sway bar install the lower bush and nut, all good. Thanks again
Also you don't even need to use the torx, just have it jacked up by the sway bar and it'll put enough pressure on it for you to be able to tighten the bottom nut.
Did u have any symptoms to replace them i have a 9 year old sandero with one split at the top?
@@Tha_chrza_81 failed national car test
Thanks man!You just make me stronger,showing your knowledge with people who are hungry of knowledge.Best regards from Serbia!
No problem mate, I'm glad the video helped. Живели
Mine have both snapped! Should be fun changing them! Probably gonna pay someone to change em for me, sticking in Delphi's drop links, great vid btw
Hi, I know this video is pretty old now but just thought I would let you know it helped me alot in changing my 2003 clio drop links. I did as you recommended and not over tighten the nylock not to stop the rubber from squashing out too much, but apparently according to autodoc you have to torque the nut up to 55nm which seems excessive to me. Anyway I appreciate your help and clio tutorials 👍
Thanks for the comment Nick, glad the video helped you out.
Used this video today and was super helpful well done sir
Awesome mate, perfect explanation and brilliant how to on UA-cam 10/10 👍👍👍👌👌👌
Good video, well filmed and narrated.
Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to post such a helpful vid. Take a 'like'!
Thanks for the video.
I just had the same problem and was stuck until i found this video.
No problem, glad the video helped.
what happens if you put in the bolt from underneath instead? and the nut on top? it shouldn't make a difference right?
I've often wondered that where, in some applications, a certain orientation is specified. I'd love to know.
@@KomradeShotabollokov yes because it's easier to use the jack directly on the bolt head then put the nut on top
Great video, much appreciated!
Amazing videos and same car as mine which is very handy :) thanks very much for making them. I'm going to attempt to put new springs and shock absorbers on my car over the weekend....feeling much more confident about it now after watching your other videos..thanks again :)
If you take your time and make sure you've got enough tools, you'll be fine. No aspect is hard, just a little time consuming. Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad the videos help.
Took my time and done both sides, and what a difference its made. You were right, not too difficult...and the time consuming bit came from compression the old and new springs up and down which I done by hand. But good exercise and I have that warm fuzzy felling of having saved £200 from the garage quote ha ha. Thanks again :)
lookpic.com/O/i2/874/LlavYJbv.jpeg
Good job! It's always great to save the money and learn something as you go along. You'll feel better about tacking other/bigger tasks now too.
Thanks, man! Great vid!
Excelente vídeo! Thank you soo much for the information!
Very useful video. Thank you 👍
So that's what they're supposed to look like. Saw mine only had a bit of rubber by the bottom. Think it's time to change them out..
I replaced mine already but was that badwasmt sure how they went bk in so hear I go again with your help
Great video, Did u have any symptoms from these failing like knocking or steering issues? Mine have gone on my sandero but was told they are still decent at the moment
Thanks, and I don't remember any major issues. Think it was just that they were worn/perished
Hi mate, I have a 2001 Renault Clio and the advisory is -
* Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
* Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i)) -
Is this video demonstrating what my advisories are?
Thanks mate, love the video
From that description, yes I think it is both your drop links. Sometimes MOT testers mark the offending item with yellow/white marker to help.
@@KomradeShotabollokov spot on thanks buddy, have ordered some and gonna give It a go!
I payed £49 for a pair from EP hope they are good quality
Great Video mate
Thank you, doing this tomorrow
Very good video, thanks.
Any tips for the *inner* anti-roll bar bushes? I got my old one off, but squashing the new bush enough to get the clamp lined up to be tightened up again seems *impossible*! Now I can't even squeeze the old one on again. It seems some superhuman strength is required.
I'm afraid I've not dealt with the inner ARB bushed yet and don't know what they look like, apologies and good luck!
Ah, no worries. They're fairly standard split D-bushes, held in by a metal shell which latches to the subframe at one end and bolts on at the other end. My problem was the replacements I had bought had a 22mm hole, but I have a 25mm ARB (1.5 DCi Mk II), so no chance of squashing it on. There's lots of confusion about the right ARB diameter for each model.
Did get the original bushes back on in the end but it's still a major pain in the ass. If you do ever tackle it, be prepared for a fight. Easier with the ARB end links disconnect to relieve all tension. One knack is to get a small g-clamp, tighten the ARB shell with new bush in place with the clamp *over* the bolt hole, then use 2 mole grips to hold the ARB shell in place, remove the g-clamp and insert and tighten the bolt up as normal.
Hi bro good job. i have a same car. From to Turkey.
Cheers mate and thanks for the comment.
Brilliant Thanks
great wee video mate. mrs droplinks are much worse looking than they were mot next week so getting them ordered right now lol..
did you get a noticeable clunk especially when cornering and hitting a pothole cause thats exactly what i have changed other bits that had play these are the last bits to do,
I think it clunked a little less than other cars, probably because it's a rubber bushing rather than a steel ball joint. Regardless when they're this cheap you might as well chuck on a new set and see if it works.
If this part is badly worn, could it be possible that it makes strange noises when going over gravel or potholes ?
Yes, a knocking noise over bumpy terrain is characteristic of a failed ARB drop link.
I'm having really difficulties getting the but on I've tried the method you tried but still I'm quite fa away from getting the threads through even though the pin is all the way down to the bottom. Any help would be great? Thank you
Hy Ryan, all I can suggest is finding a way to compress the central part of the bushing even further, without damaging it. You could try a large G-clamp to squeeze it more?
@@KomradeShotabollokov thank you for getting back to me I will give that a go not sure why it's giving me so much trouble. Great video by the way really informative. Thank you
Great video very helpful thanks
No problem, thanks for the feedback.
Good man.
As soon as you turned around, they went into that shop, I’d that would be enough for me.
Just spray with WD40 first, it makes the whole process much easier..
If it perishes again
Replace with strong flex poly drop link 👍
A bloody good idea. No idea why I didn't think to look for polyurethane bushes last time... The drop links on the car now are perishing again and are nearly worn out so I'll take a look online and replace in time for my MOT in the summer. The standard drop links only seem to last about 20,000 - 30,000 miles for me.
Komrade Shotabollokov strongflex ones will cost around 25 pounds shipped for the pair dependent on shipping
I'm using their bushes in my dogbone mount and the casts seem much better than the powerflex ones
www.strongflexuk.co.uk/renault/clio/front-anti-roll-bar-outer-mount-sport.html#.WudZM73TU0M
Thanks for the link. I did consider a poly bush for the dog bone mount years ago but as my Clio is diesel and I value my teeth, I decided against it. Is yours a diesel? If so, how bad is the vibration?
Komrade Shotabollokov 1.4 16v petrol
Have had the mounts for few months and the vibration is only really noticeable at 1000-1700 rpm bit otherwise yummy
(I like a massage chair so doesn't bother me)
Diesel might be annoying for u
top man
Do they need to be replaced in pairs? I have an advisory for the Offside and I am assuming this is what they meant for Link thing, Also the part that you bought the replacement for is it both the Bushing and Link that come together or you mentioned the bolt comes. I managed to find this could you confirm whether this is the part? www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-anti-roll-bar-link-614745059
That looks exactly like what I bought. I wouldn't say that they have to be replaced in pairs although I think they come as a pair and it is best practice.
@@KomradeShotabollokov Thank you, I will look to hopefully get this sorted intime for the next MOT! Thank you so much for your series of videos on this car! Has helped alot!
How much does it cost to replace ?
I think I paid approximately £15 for the pair.
ABS ring is full of dirt...but great video ;)
It's more likely to be rust due to the salt used on the roads in the UK in winter. I've had ABS rings fail due to this before and I expect it will happen to these at some point, too.
Just wondering, why did you replace the whole lower suspension arm? Did it need replacing, or maybe the ball joint did? Could you only get the new ball joint complete with suspension arm?
You can replace the ball joint on its own but that wasn't the problem: the lower arm bushes were worn and I did not want to spend the time pressing new ones in. I don't have a hydraulic press and valued my time more than the price of new parts. I think I made a video about the arms (showing the state of the worn bushes).
@@KomradeShotabollokov Ok, fair enough, I just wondered because I need a new lower ball joint on one side (but I'm going to replace both). Mine are unusual for the Clio, in that the bolts are M12, not M10. I couldn't find an aftermarket part for the M12 ones, and was told that they only came as an assembly with a new arm. In fact, I found that ball joints for the Scenic/Megane should fit, and I ordered 2 of these. I'm just now waiting for a dry spell to see if they fit ok.. Are yours M10, or M12?
I can't remember to be honest, apologies. If the bolts that fit your lower arm are different to all others you've seen, are you sure that the lower arms haven't been replaced with unusual ones in the past? I wonder if they're from a more powerful clio which may use bigger bolts?
@@KomradeShotabollokov No, they've never been replaced as far as I remember, and I've had the car from new. I don't think the M12 ones are that unusual, I've seen several cases where people have raised this question. Do you remember the part no of the ball joint you fitted? I'll probably have a look at my car today, and see if I can fit one of the new ones. I'll let you know if it fits...
I don't recall the part number, sorry. Hope the new part fits your car.
Did a set of these on Friday. What a crap design it is.
I agree, and on a component that fails so regularly too. I have changed my mental outlook on them now: I simply accept that I'll need to change them once per year (or maybe once each 2 years) unlike proper drop links with ball joints on a steel rod that last many years. At least these Renault ones are very cheap...