Thanks for your no nonsense way of showing what a 500w solar system can do. I am tired of the math methods and don't forget to add 5 to 6k worth of lithium batteries. Your videos are the best
A bit late to the posting but @ 2:10 I had the same 4x set from 2015, they lasted quite a while and were the last of the JCI's. Since `16 Interstate has been contracting with Trojan for their GC2's. Flooded lead acid batteries have their drawbacks but when you consider the cost of todays batteries they are still a good option.
This video has been very helpful. Years ago when we first went off grid we had 600 watts of solar for the house. We eventually grew the system to 5000 watts. Now after 30 years we are starting a new off grid homestead. We just put 400 watts of solar on the roof of our fifth wheel with 200 watts on the ground. We will he living in it until the new house is built. The weather can get down to -30f so we have a short window of time to get the house done before snow. I have watched a ton of videos rv boondocking. Thank you for your hard work putting this video together.
Hopefully you are somewhere sunny as the days are pretty short right now. We are spending the winter on Vancouver Island and with all the cloud solar output is very low. Cheers, Ray
Hello, this is one of my favorite videos. Last year when we started out no one was using solar. I started out slow and watched a lot of videos. We are thousand trail members so didn't really need solar in the east. Boondocking out in the West solar opens up lots of possibilities. We now have 200 watts solar and 400 amps battery and it is plenty. We also have a generator we run on propane. It will run the entire camper but mostly use it for a few minutes to heat up left overs. We were at quartzsite for some of March and all of April now 2 weeks at Zion Headed to Bryce Canyon tommorrow. The solar gives us options and saves us money. Thanks for your guidance. We ended up different but similar. Robert
*UPDATE Feb 2020* I've recently installed new Lion Energy Lithium batteries, added two more 100W Renogy solar panels and redid some of the wiring. Check these links for information on the upgrades: www.loveyourrv.com/boondocking-power-upgrade-200-watts-wiring-update-mods/ www.loveyourrv.com/lion-energy-lithium-battery-ut-1300-review-update/
When you have to replace your batteries . Consider getting some deep cycle batteries . From using deep cycle versus regular , deep cycled performed better across the rate of temps and loads. They also have a flat voltage curve until they reach about 20% capacity . When I was working we alway used deep cycle batteries on remote sites where solar was the only source of power.
@@standbyme6395 Back 3 1/2 years ago when I bought the 4 Interstate wet cell golf cart batteries for $600 barely anyone was using lithium in an RV and they were horribly expensive. Not many companies were even making them and they needed much more tech expertise to have. Now they are much more commonplace and there are drop-in lithium RV batteries but still pricey, for me to upgrade I'd have to shell out about $1500-2000 bucks. Not a big priority for me as my batteries are still performing well, serve our needs and we only boondock about 4 months of the year. In a couple of years when my current batteries decline I'll look at the options out there and see what makes sense for us. I'll be able to see how the early adopters made out. Maybe if I was off the grid most of the year but about 8 months we have plugin power. :) Also, I have the advantage of a large well-ventilated front compartment and the carrying capacity for the heavier lead acid. Lots of RV types don't have that. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV just an fyi when that time comes look to a common 24v setup. Its actually 25.2v but at that voltage you can combine both ion and iron in the lithium as well as the lead acid and the old school ni-cd together in parallel. Might knock the price down if you are willing to salvage batteries. Thank you for posting.
I liked your video. Being disabled and not particularly rich, I like to dream / design how I would built an RV if I had won a lottery. First, I would start with a brand new school bus. I would go to the factory and order it somewhat customized with some windows missing replaced by the sheet metal not being cut out and also without passenger seats. I have driven school buses and tractor trailers in the past and don't like the feel of a flat nosed cabover bus or truck. I also like the safety and convenience of having 6 or 8 feet of steel between me and anything that may run into my front end plus the engine under the hood is easier to service than one buried in the rear end of a flat nosed bus. I would run as many 160 watt solar panels as would fit on the roof. I would run those into programmable controller(s). Inside, I would have a "U" shaped dining area with a table in the middle and with storage area under the seats for 15 X 12 volt @ 200 AH AGM batteries. 5 under each leg and back of the "U". I would have a 5,000 watt pure sine wave inverter to run the kitchen area, A/C and bathroom. I would also have a 2,000 watt PSW inverter dedicated to the 120 VAC @ 1,400 watt tankless hot water heater. A 750 watt PSW inverter for the 2 TV's, 2 DVD players and 2 satellite receivers and a 150 watt modified sine wave inverter dedicated to run ONLY the LED lighting. At 9 watts per 60 value bulb, I could run as many as 16 bulbs although something the size of a school bus with 16 @ 60 watt bulbs would be lit up like a movie studio but it's nice to have the extra capacity so if we wanted separate outdoor lighting or some such amenities. Why so many inverters? If we don't have a need for high drain devices, I would shut off the 5,000 watter. The 2,000 watter would only be turned on if needed for showers, clothes or dishwashing. The 150 watter would stay on full time if the RV is in use for lighting and safety purposes with very low idle drain on the batteries and the 750 watter so if we fall asleep with the TV on, it won't be a major drain on the batteries with the larger inverters shut off at bedtime. I would have the 5,000 watter so that if any of the other inverters were to die prematurely, I can reroute any of the lesser circuits to it temporarily until the defective inverter is replaced. That's what I like about dreaming. One can spend millions on anything and everything and not have it cost a dime. Plus, NO upkeep, insurance, licensing or vehicle inspection. Have a happy.
I have had eliminator inverters before and they were not pure sine wave. In fact, I could not buy anything the was purse since wave at Canadian Tire until recently. The 400W inverter I did use had a higher alarm and seemed to drop the voltage quickly. I replaced it with a 600W inverter from AIMS and the difference is amazing for me at least. Thanks for your videos. Henri
You're welcome, I bought my Motomaster Pure Sine Eliminator in 2011, was on for 1/2 price, think I paid around $249 back then. got my money's worth. :) I calculate its had about 5 years of runtime.
I do photography and videography and have been trying to figure out how much solar I’d need to be able to move into an RV and I’ve been stressing about this. But this gave me a lot of confidence that 600w may be the best go to for me.
Hi! This was the first of your videos that I've watched. You have an excellent grasp of everything electrical and some of your viewers, like me, lack that basic understanding. Have you produced a video that lays out the basics on amps, watts, voltage, etc. pertinent to RVs that would serve as a primer? If not, your manner of speaking is ideal for such a lesson. Thanks and happy travels to you both.
Thanks! I haven't done a video specifically like that, I'll add that to my todo list. Here are a couple I've done on the testing equipment I use and carry onboard the RV. www.loveyourrv.com/electrical-test-gear-aboard-rv-uses/ www.loveyourrv.com/how-to-use-a-multimeter-for-rvers/
I'd want the safety net of auto gen start on those chilly nights with the furnace. Especially out in the desert where you aren't going to bother anyone with the noise.
Great video we don't use a inverter in our rig as we stay in the same RV park when we snowbird to AZ but we do use a 100 watt solar panel in the summer time in Oregon and it keeps our batteries up. We do use a gen if the temp gets to hot or a couple days of rain. A dog or so would help keep Ann warm night and give you a hiking companion.
Great video! Love the Bluetooth to start up the inverter generator!! Great idea to start up when using big amps. Plus it always good to run your EQUIPMENT.
I use my Instant Pot to make perfect boiled eggs. The pressure make the eggs peel perfectly! Look up your recipe. I do 5 minutes and immediate removal to a cold bath
Good video presentation with great advice. I have a similar solar setup on my trailer, four 6 volt golf cart batteries and same 1000 watt inverter. I have a total of 635 watts of solar, 300 of it is portable that I move around the campsite to track the sun. Your setup works great in an open area with no trees to obstruct sunlight. In my case, the campsites that I usually stay at are surrounded by trees, I’m lucky to get direct sunlight for a portion of the day and during certain times of the year when the sun is higher in the sky. I have to carefully select the best site available that provides me with the most sun. I use my inverter sparingly, to watch a movie, make a cup of coffee in the morning and to vacuum the floor every other day. If the skies are overcast everyday or blocked by wildfire smoke, my batteries can serve me for more than a week.
Wonderful video, thank you! Very helpful. I just installed the Victron Phoenix inverter 800 (560 watts w/ 1500 watt peak). I assumed all kitchen appliances that cooked things, like your pressure cooker and the egg cooker, would consume too many watts, looks like I was wrong! I am off to watch your videos on those two, to learn more about them. I’m really excited to know more. Thank you very much for the video.
Hello, this is a area where I get confused I am a baker and I use mixers that have high speed start ups and require extra power to start up and some power tools all require the same extra boost of power to start up. Because i am trying to build and design multiple systems both stand alone and a intreated system it is hard to understand at times. Also one old online rule of thumb that is online is a person needs 200 to 240 watts of solar panels to recharge one one hundred 100AH battery, so far this is a area that I am still trying to understand fully.
@@hopehope938 If you run appliances with a high start-up surge current, you'll want to get a low-frequency inverter. They are more expensive but can handle higher start-up surge loads Low Frequency Inverters (LF) www.magnum-dimensions.com/knowledge/high-vs-low-frequency-inverters/inversion-methods-explained-high-frequency-vs-low Our UL-listed, low frequency inverters and inverter/chargers are the pinnacle of electrical durability. The massive iron core transformer is aptly capable of absorbing surge loads because of the “Flywheel Effect” inherent in the physical amount of a transformer’s iron. LF inverters have larger and more robust Field Effect Transistors (FET’s) that can operate cooler, in part due to the slower frequency of switching required to produce AC power. The amount of solar panels needed depends on how much energy you'll use each day, the time of year, and how often the skies are clear vs. cloudy. Winter campers need more solar panels than summer campers. People in the cloudy pacific northwest like Seattle need more than, say, sunny Phoenix. Cheers, Ray
I'm glad when we met you out in the desert you showed me how to hook up that number five panel I think we will do that sometime in the future. We plan on leaving this area and plan on being on the road by April 1st. Maybe we will cross paths somewhere we're going to head east towards the places you've been already. Thanks for all of the advice now I know what I can use with solar system.. since as I told you we copied yours. Have a great day
You're most welcome. :) We will likely be up somewhere on elevation to the north around that time, maybe Utah or Nevada headed back towards the coast by April. Usually takes us a month to slowly make our way to BC
HI from Mexico .Great video! With the four 232 AH batteries, you power quite a bit! Everything uses a bit, but when you add it all up it's actually a big drain on the system. We make creative videos on a wide variety of topics, all in playlists!
What is also great is fuel saver generators. My grandfather on my dad's side has one, basically, it's like a car engine in a way, it sits at a low rpm until higher power demand is needed, and it revs up to meet the demand, and it'll rev back down to it's set idle rpm when the demand isn't needed anymore.
Personally I'm a big fan of solar for RV'ing - mostly because it's quiet and doesn't use consumables. I have a small 12ft off-road trailer with 240W of solar on it. I just recently replaced the lead acid battery with a LiFePO4 Battleborn battery. That gives me 100Ah usable energy in a trailer smaller than my towing vehicle. Some people say it's overkill for a trailer that size, but I can run my fridge/freezer (12/24V compressor fridge) indefinitely with just a little sun. Lights are all LED and the only other bigger consumer is the propane furnace I put in this winter which draws around 3 amps. I didn't wire in an inverter, however I do have one I can plug directly into the battery in case I need to power something with 120V that the onboard inverter in my car can't power (like my wife's hairdryer). Before upping on inverter or solar panels I'd consider upgrading to lithium batteries. That will give you at least double the storage capacity and they allow you to charge and discharge much quicker than lead acid. I can fully charge my battery in 2 hours flat. Yes, they're expensive but in my book worth it (plus they're a lot lighter, which for my rig is more important since I need to stay as light as possible when I want to go off-road)
Sounds like a great system for a small rig. :) Luckily with my fifth wheel battery weight isn't a big concern and my front compartment is open to the outside air so neither is battery gassing a problem. I installed the lead acid batteries 3 1/2 years ago when lithium choices were much less and much more expensive and required hands-on monitoring. Mow they have drop-in replacements. I oversized my lead acid bank for our needs but still only needed to spend $600. They have done the job for us. Would be nice to upgrade to lithium but I can think of many other things I'd rather spend the cash on. ;) Maybe if I was off the grid most of the year but about 8 months we have plugin power. In a couple of years when my current batteries start to decline, I'll look at the options out there and see what makes sense for us I'll be able to see how the early adopters made out. The way tech is moving so fast there will be some new thing that is better! Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Even the drop in replacements like the battleborn still needs a charger able to deliver the higher voltage, so in my case I had to replace the onboard converter (funny enough the recommendation was a 30amp version of your generator charge converter). You're right: you only need what you need. I met people who invested a lot into huge lithium setups and they mostly go to RV parks with full hookups - total waste of money. I only have room for one battery, so a Lithium battery gives me the most power in the available space. I just wanted to make sure I don't run out of power in a freezing night with the newly added ducted heater on full blast because that would make the Mrs. really cranky when condensation drips on her cold head in the middle of the night. Nobody wants a cranky Mrs in the rig, so it's definitely worth the investment :-)
@@LoveYourRV I think your system is good, as long as you stay over sized. I also have unsealed lead acid deep cycle and you cant beat the price per amp hour. I have my solar set up going 6 years and counting with my original batteries. I maintain and refill the batteries as needed. I love serviceable products.
Our fifth wheel doesn’t have solar but my gate opener at home does. We find that we don’t have any problems when we are hooked up to 30 or 50 amp hookups. And that is pretty much running anything although we try not to use the propane stove in the summer. I have two Trojan 220’s that let me run the residential fridge off the inverter for several days and that helps a lot. I’m thinking of expanding the system and maybe adding a revolving mirror disco ball but the LED one. Ok I’m kidding. Love your videos Ray, informative and entertaining.
Great video, very informative 👍👍thank you. You know what really amazed me though? The fact that you actually say roof! the way it should be, and not the most commonly heard, rof 😄 that I hear so often on UA-cam . Cheers 👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻👍
@@LoveYourRV Aaah! that explains it! As you probably know, to many of "us" around the world (I'm in New Zealand ) the American and Canadian accents are hard to differentiate for us, just like the Australian and NZ accents sound the same to most of the world, ( but very different to us! 😃) I just thought you were an American, that spoke proper English ! NO offense to my American FRIENDS!! OK??? 😃👍
I love your setup. A little cleaner than mine and a different approach but we don’t full time. I have 495w on my roof and 160w available outboard solar. I have 2x 6v deep cycles. Because of the difficult setup of my travel trailer (6awg cable buried in the floor, room for only 2 bats) I concentrated on a mainly 12v setup and run a CPAP, fridge and pumps and various chargers from 3 12v/USB combo outlets that I installed with 10 awg cabling. Instead of a large central inverter, I have several small ones that can be plugged into any of the heavy 12v outlets to run laptops or charge drills etc. Up to 300w can be run on any of the outlets but I mostly use a very small 125w inverter for most tasks. My solar is sized to provide a full charge from 20% in a day around the equinox but the extra size helps a lot in the area I camp in most, Vancouver Island, which is not known for it’s sunny weather. I keep a very small 800w 2 stroke generator around for emergency charging and it can power a 30a charger. I very rarely need it. Unlike your well planned system, mine was built in stages and is actually 3 parallel systems using 3 chargers in parallel. This mostly works fine but there is a weird transition you have to watch for as each system switches from boost to float. It pays to plan ahead.
Enjoy your informative videos. I especially enjoy your hiking videos. I haven't been able to hike for a while. Having hip replacement on Friday. Hopefully can get back to hiking again
When I had a RV I installed a 12V compressor fridge in it, they work really well even if it's hot outside, those absorption fridges struggle when it's hot. I think your solar system would handle such a fridge easily.
Maybe when the absorption packs it in again I'll think of getting a compressor one. The one we have is just a few years old and we got it free under extended warranty when the old one's cooling unit quit. It actually works much better than the original, cools really well even in the summer heat. I think they must have improved them. We also don't see extremely high temps being snowbirds usually we are in mild climates.
I lived near there when i was 11, (1967) apart from the beautiful and plentiful wildlife...i remember yellow coors beer cans ....all over the roads..are they still there?
Thank you Ray!....I apologize for not reading through all the posts, but, could you share more about your Digital Weather station panel and how you chose that particular one? Oh, and, you rock! keep it up Bro.
Thanks, here is the install post - www.loveyourrv.com/installed-la-crosse-weather-station-wind-speed-rv/ I also installed a buck converter later on so I didn't need to use batteries in the display - www.loveyourrv.com/dc-to-dc-buck-converter-mod-to-reduce-the-rv-12-vdc-supply-to-4-5-vdc/ and here is an updated review clip I did - ua-cam.com/video/k9esJJZ6OW4/v-deo.html Cheers! Ray
The average was around 2 - 4 days. It varied depending on how energy conscious we became and how cold it was. The colder the weather the higher our energy use was due to the furnace fan using so much energy at night. Also if it was winter and the days were shorter we use more energy because we are inside more and using lights and entertainment electronics versus the long days of summer and doing outside activities more. Cheers, Ray
This is probably the best video on UA-cam explaining what you can actually run on a 500w system. Thank you so much for this, we're fitting 500 watts in our off grid cottage and now have at least some idea of how much energy we will have. Have you guys considered a cheap Chinese diesel heater? They're about £80 so that's probably just over a hundred dollars and they blow out tons of heat and are cheap to run. Thanks again and take care.
We have a Big Buddy portable propane heater that does a good job of warming us up and doesn't use too much LP gas compared to the RV gas furnace, I plumbed it into the low-pressure RV gas line with a quick connect for easy use. But I don't think I'd want to add a different fuel source like a diesel tank to the trailer and wouldn't have much trust in a cheap diesel heater. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I totally understand your concern and they actually run from a small separate fuel tank. They're 100% safe and it's shocking how many people have them now, plus there's zero condensation from the heat. Lots of videos on UA-cam about them just in case you get curious. Thanks again for that great explanation again.
I remember back in the old days the Volkswagon vans had factory diesel heaters installed, which was kinda cool. From having a diesel pickup truck for years now I know how messy and smelly diesel fuel can be if any spills. Just not something I'd want in the trailer, also I'm sure there are major implications to consider as far as insurance goes, adding a whole new fuel tank and lines. I bet not many are having these DIY installs are getting certified. ;) I guess we'll wait and see how this fad turns out as all these cheap heaters start to age. All the best, Ray
@@LoveYourRV you're 100% correct about the insurance and the potential smell isn't something you want in your home. We have a truma diesel heater in our German fabricated campervan and the Chinese model in our VW T4, they're both great but I know which one most people would appreciate lol
Good info Ray. I’m going to do just what you said, install a battery monitor to see what my actual draw is so I can plan a solar array the will work for my needs. 👍
I'd disagree with you on this one. I was like EEEeeeeeeeeeerrrrr, but I've done wiring a bit cleaner in stereos and PCs but this wiring isn't bad by any means, it's a lot cleaner then most for sure but my first thought was 'yuck' haha. My OCD is on overdrive :P
Here is the one I had www.loveyourrv.com/installed-la-crosse-weather-station-wind-speed-rv/ but have since upgraded to a www.loveyourrv.com/christmas-rv-goodie-deluxe-weather-station-for-the-rig/ and really like it
@@LoveYourRV when I opened the link, sadly to say it does not look like the one in this video. about my solar, I am going to verify all connections this coming week. and I am considering removing the inline fuses to see if there is any improvement , don't worry, i also have circuit breakers between the panels and charge controllers. yep, i have heard similar comments from others, thanks
I suggest looking at replacing your furnace thermostat those analog Colman ones are iffy at best. I bought a digital Honeywell that can run off two AA batteries but I put in a 12vdc to 3vdc buck converter so I don't need to worry about it.
Thanks, have had digital for many years now - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-thermostat-upgrade-honeywell-focuspro-5000/ Has to switch back when the digital failed where I couldn't easily get a replacement - ua-cam.com/video/k9esJJZ6OW4/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV any house one will work they're just a bunch of relays. Powering them is the hard part as they need 24volts. But if they have battery back-up you can just give them power that way.
Yeah, I know thanks, I went with the FocusPro 5000 because it works off the batteries but also auto switches between heating and cooling mode, some of them you have to manual switch, which can be a pain in certain climates. Cheers, Ray
Thank you for for all the information I will be sure to save it and I am ready to hook up my solar system right now I am going to be stripping down and reconstructing an old RV that's about 26 ft
@@LoveYourRV You are right, much harder to set up than solar panels because of the height and weight. I just got one recently and had it out on the ice. The noise is actually cool sounding and makes you feel like you are gaining a lot of power. It might be hard to sleep with it attached to a camper but you could set it away and run an regular extension chord to the turbine. I got mine for an ice fishing shack and running heat in a small old camper. We don't really ice fish, we are snowkiting and using the camper as a place to wait for the wind or warm up. I ran solar first and had so much wind I thought I'd be the only person on the lake with a wind mill. It is fun and I got it to work but something drained my battery the first time I tried it and I had no heat at all. I pulled the camper home, charged the battery and will try again in my yard to see if the wind turbine has a parasitic draw. I'll share a video of it once I get it figured out. Your solar power with all those batteries is probably the way to go. I never thought of running TV/computers, blender etc. Looks like you and your wife are having a great time in paradise. Great Video!
Regarding the boxes etc that you sit on the ground, what's the protocol dealing with creepy crawlies and snakes that can potentially get in them? You ever have issues with creepy crawlies getting inside the camper?
I haven't, since I camp in the winter months. During the winter in the desert the nights get quite cold. Most of the creepy crawlers are hibernating underground for the season. Rare to see one.
Thanks! I got it for her as a stocking stuffer for Christmas, was only 20 bucks, but she uses it a lot, she likes to poach eggs and it makes two really quick! She sprays the little plastic tray with cooking spray making it really easy to clean up. It does a good job at making soft medium and hard based just on how much water is added, the push one button I've tried the Instant Pot, works well but this is much smaller and lighter, so easier for Anne.
I really like my Olympic Wave 8 that I really like a little open window and it's great. I am interested in this egg cooker. I am hooked up to shore power not quite ready to venture off the plug yet Ray! I am also glad you are not on the Lithium battery band wagon too. Thanks Ray I will be checking on the wireless generator too.
Lithium is great but I decided to put my money into a new truck! :) The old school lead acids do the job. Still, have at least 3 years left in them I figure. Cheers! Ray
Here is a link to my initial review - www.loveyourrv.com/energizer-portable-inverter-generator-review/ and my update - www.loveyourrv.com/20-more-rv-product-review-and-repair-updates/ and my review of my older Champions - www.loveyourrv.com/champion-generator-review-5-years-use/
Great Video.... Just wondering about your GENERATOR... I didn't catch any of the information as to the size, power output and what all it can handle.... Thanks in advance for your response...
Thanks, it was one I was reviewing called a Energizer 3200 watt Here is the link to the review www.loveyourrv.com/energizer-portable-inverter-generator-review/ Has a couple of videos. Cheers, Ray
Technically your running off the batteries not solar. The inverter is connected to the batteries and provides AC power to your devices. The solar panels simply charge the batteries. The more solar the faster your batteries are recharged. If running a generator, depending upon how it's wired into the system (or how you wire it into your system) it can provide both power to your outlets as well as recharge your batteries. When sizing an off-grid system you calculate your daily power usage. Then you size your storage (batteries) based upon that usage plus the total number of days you want to be able to run without fully recharging them. Then based upon that you can determine the size of the solar system you need. As part of that calculation you determine how quickly you want to fully recharge your storage. There are things that come into play such as peak hours for your location, efficiency derate due to inverter and wire resistence as well as charging efficiency. For a system like Rays (and mine) your inverter and storage is typically sized based upon space, cost and weight. You're typically only running a few things with the knowledge that you have a generator as backup. And the solar is simply there to recharge the batteries at whatever rate you happen to get where you're located. In the end if it meets your needs that's all you really need.
Currently we’re ok with our harbor freight solar panels. But i do want to get golf cart batteries instead of car/truck batteries. And yes, system backed by a dual fuel generator
Good morning Ray, you know we copy everything you do. And you also know I have a new small motorhome I'm thinking of only putting a 100 or 200 W solar system on top of that motorhome. Do you have any recommendations I see this one is for a 500 watt way too big for what I need. Hope you're having safe travels on your way home
Renogy makes some decent kits. Or BougeRV has this 180W panel for a decent price www.bougerv.com/collections/solar-panels/products/rv-solar-panels-for-sale I'm going to be testing and reviewing their newest controller when I get back to BC. www.bougerv.com/collections/solar-controller/products/40a-mppt-solar-charge-controller Once I get it I could send you out the one I'm currently using no charge. Just a thought. Here is what it looks like www.bougerv.com/collections/solar-controller/products/charge-controller-1 Its good for up to 520W of panels and lithium ready.
Nice setup, neighbor.. (i live permanent in my RV outside of Tucson).. I was wondering how two people could run on only 500 watts.. It is because you run your refrigerator on propane.. I run a small fridge with 1000 watt solar setup.. Just about everything else is identical,, TV,, computers,, lights,, cooking,, vampire loads,, etc.. I use up my propane budget keeping the place warm because I like it warm just like Ann does.. 😎
I'm newly branched into this world of building solar setups. Being 24 years old, I'm excited as it's a bit much to take in. Seems like these will be some great life skills. I'm trying to better understand to work out the math for my build. I'm unsure of how to calculate usage while not being in my own environment. That way I know I'm building my setup accurate. I plan on using most thing you use. Just wanting to wrap my brain around it is all. Thanks for such an awesome video!
@@dezanicleaver2682 = Hi,, not sure if this was directed at the OP or me.. .. # of panels is how much electricity you use each ~hour 'x' 2.... # of batteries is how long you want to run those with no sun.. The reason to double the panels is you have to account for losses.. Losses in solar panels,, wiring,, charge controller,, more wiring,, inverter,, more wiring,, and batteries.. ie: my setup I have 1000 watts of panels.. The most I use at anyone time "ON AVERAGE" is about 500 watts.. I have 900 amp hours of battery/450 usable.. ( 8-Trojan T-105's) I could easily use double the batteries,, but my wallet says no.. If this was not directed at me.... well, you can see that there are a lot of people that share your excitement at being free of the electrical grid.. Good Luck.. Happy Trails.!!
I’m considering adding 300-400 more watts of solar partly to offset the 30% decrease in Dec & Jan due to the lower sun angle and not have to run the generator at all unless we need A/C. While boondocking in January, I needed to run the generator a lot as the 400 watts of panels only generated about 85 amp-hours on a good day. On many days, it was scattered clouds and I would only get about 50-60 amp-hours. We do use our Instant Pot almost every day as well as a Keurig coffee maker so our needs are a bit higher. Great video on a subject where there seems to be a lot of confusion.
That Keurig coffee maker uses a lot of electricity because it has to keep a certain amount of water hot all the time when on. Have you considered an automatic drip coffee maker then just poor it into a large thermos to keep it hot.
@@jimthvac100 Our daughter gave us a mini Nespresso cartridge espresso maker (does the coffee and nothing more) and it draws 1025 watts when the heating element is on. We always remember to turn it off between uses (it heats up again in about 30 seconds) if only because the 900W inverter trips off if we engage the microwave before turning off the espresso machine.
@@audiophilephile jimthvac100 I got a $20 KUPS and Coffee grounds coffee maker at WALLY World. You put the water in, coffee in and hit ON... it brews and then the power is OFF. 5-6 mins at @1000watts.
When I was still driving long haul I had a 12 volt warming blanket. It went under the bottom sheet. Man it was nice. I could run it all night in temps at -40° and never kill the battery.
Thanks for your informative video. I am building a similar system in a smaller trailer and using 3 - 100 amp hour 12V batts charged by 420 watts PV on the roof and another 100W PV panel I can plug in as you have done. What's curious is your battery setup: four 6V wired to produce, effectively, two 12V batts (or, one big 12V batt)... so I would like to ask, respectfully, are you certain of your claimed 460 amp hour battery capacity? I ask because it may well be just 230 amp hours... either way, your system is working for you which is great news for me since I'm using a similarly-sized batt bank and panel array, PLUS - I'm using the Bogart Engineering duo you feature. Yes, your vid is three years old (or my comments three years late, depending) but I'm here to say thanks (again) for your presentation. Safe travels to you. I'll go look on your channel for any updates. Be well.
Yes, the batteries were four 6V Interstate golf cart type with an amp hour rating of 232 each. They were wired in a series-parallel arrangement. When the batteries are series wired, the voltage doubles, and the amp hours stay the same, so 2 in series make a 12V 232Ah battery. The pair are paralleled with the other series pair. The voltage stays the same when you parallel batteries, but the amp hour capacity doubles. So 232 x 2 = 464. Having said that, to prolong battery lifespan, the rule of thumb with lead acid batteries is to avoid letting them get below 50% state of charge, so the effective capacity is 232 amp hours. Cheers, Ray
Hello. I was perusing solar videos as Im designing my new system for my new camper. I have a 600 watt full signwave inverter. It is easy to wire to the outlet breaker. When hooked to shore power if I have the inverter turned off will shore power damage my inverter. I could unplug or put an in line switch. Just wondering if necessary to disconnect. It would be handy to have all plugs hot when boondocking.
I guess it depends on the inverter I would ask the company that makes it. Most people will install a transfer switch either manual or auto. Myself I decide to just add a pair of extra dedicated outlets for my 1000W inverter and keep the two power systems completely separate - ua-cam.com/video/yV2xJiHSbfU/v-deo.html At some point if I have spare cash I may upgrade to a 2000W or 3000W inverter and at that time will likely install an inverter subpanel and move some of my RV's AC circuits over to it and always run them off the inverter. I think that's a better option for me versus a transfer switch.
I already have a 600 watt. Pure sine wave inverter and it will be very easy to wire into the breaker that fuses all the outlets. To be safe i will put a switch inline.
When I boondock I run a extension cord from the 2K inverter to the shore power connection of the trailer that way every plug in the trailer is activated if I don't do that the only things that work on A/C is the TV the refrigerator and 2 plugs on each side of the bed, and nowadays the newer trailers have power recliners that heat and vibrate and when I run the generator i plug the plug into the generator...I only have 265 watts one panel but I am going to add a matching panel that will give me 530 watts and I have 3 lithium 100ah for 300ah but I can use 90% and I am thinking of added 1 more battery for a total of 400ah.
Do you have a connection to charge your battery on the shore power plug, through the converter? That would give a feedback cycle that will run down your battery quickly.
I may be wrong, but I've heard that you can't actually use 90% without killing lithium batteries, just the same as lead acid or AGM, etc. Are you sill using them, and are they still going?
Thanks, its cut the generator run time by 1/2 or 1/3 compared to the OEM setup. In my trailer the charger is installed in the living area about 20-25 feet of 6GA cable away from the battery compartment. It did a horrible job of charging my battery bank. Not only was it a cheaper quality WFCO charger with that much cable there was a significant voltage drop tricking the charger into thinking the batteries were much more charged then they actually were. My theory is the OEMs do that to prevent overcharging the battery. Better for it to be undercharged and not last as long than overcharged and possible off gas and boil over. Cheers, Ray
You are one of many who state they use a DC to AC inverter to power a small electronic device that has a DC need. The plug for an Ipad converts AC to DC. Would a DC to DC stepper be a better choice?
Thank you so much for your explanation and how you manage with what you have , very helpful as we are considering solar and have a better idea on what we can expect.Great vid
You always find some of the most beautiful and secluded spots! I always make little notes to add to my bucket list. Thank You! We plan to do solar when we upgrade our Rig so watching this is so fascinating. I've always wondered how full-time RV'ers with solar use the power on a daily basis and if you have enough to get you through the evening. Looks like your solar set-up takes care of all your power needs, with a little extra to spare. Very cool! Have a Great Day! 👍🌈😀🌈
Very informative video. What kind of generator do you have outside. Is it a generator inverter? My husband are debating the best way to go...just a generator or generator inverter. If you have a video explaining the difference please send a link.
It's a Champion 2000 watt inverter generator. Here is a video demo it and another called an Energizer - www.loveyourrv.com/energizer-2000w-portable-generator-review/ It's best if you can afford to get an inverter type as they are much quieter and use less fuel. Inverter generators can run at reduced RPM when full power is not required. Non inveter generators are cheaper but run a full RPM all the time so use more fuel and are annoying to fellow campers to listen to. They are more sutable for use at a construciton site. Cheers, Ray
Thanks for showing me my "loose end" on my solar set up. Do you change anything when h/u on shore power - disconnect solar? Guess I should have watch 5 more mins b4 asking... Homer moment.
love this video we are planing a trip to Alaska an we wanted to know what we would need to boondocks we will be traveling in a class B and I don't know how much we would need as to fridge etc so you filled in a lot the things your using is what we use so far thanks you safe travels
@@LoveYourRV Wonderful footage. They get significantly larger than that too, but they spook VERY easily and take off faster than you can imagine. I've seen them as tall as 30" from dirt to top of ears. That whole area down there is simply breathtaking. People don't believe Arizona has "big sky country" until they head south around Bisbee.
Both, we like it, shows us wind direction and rough speed, makes people smile, if some one if coming to visit its easy for them to find us, same if we had to call the authorities for some reason. Makes us easy to find. Also in some terrains it helps me find the rig when hiking. I've even had other hikers thank me as they could see my flag and know where they were when lost. Cheers, Ray
I figure a wind turbine would be noisy and vibrate the rig, a pain to set up plus takedown when winds are too high. I think they may be suitable for a smaller RV where there isn't much roof space for lots of solar panels or a place that doesn't get a lot of sunshine or if at a place long enough and could set up the wind turbine away from the RV.
@@LoveYourRV Yeah, slim potato head (UA-cam channel name) had a wind generator, he actually had done a video on it. He said in the same video that it shook his camper due to all the high wind he had got caught in. And in a later video that he did, he said that the reason why it dissapeared is because it was a pain.
Well done as usual. I didn't see mention of a microwave!! Did I miss it? My DW would never agree to boondocking without one. Truth be told I'd miss it too. Our inverter is 900W and will run our Panasonic 1350W (max input) inverter microwave up to level 6 or 7. Typically we use level 5 and double the time we would use on level 10 though many foods cook/heat best at level 5 and would be heated there in any event. Our propane central heat was a big electricity user until I bypassed all the lossy under-floor ducts and ran them directly into the heated space with the longest one now about five feet long and any duct losses going back into the heater air intake. That cut our 5-6 amp heater fan motor use by well more than half. Also, because the RV now heats up very quickly we don't usually run the heat at night, instead we turn the heat on 20 minutes before we get up (well, before DW gets up). If we expect inside temperature to get down around 40F, we sometimes do set the thermostat there overnight.
Thanks. :) No didn't miss it. We don't use the microwave much so didn't bother hooking into its power, I prefer to cook with the gas stove top and oven, BBQ or Instant Pot. 40F would never work for my wife she gets too cold at night so I bought her an electric throw blanket, its been a big hit, so she can use that at night and I can save running the furnace and using propane up. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV My DW does not complain about the cold if I get up (briefly) to turn the heat on before she does. But, I think I could get some big points with the electric throw blanket. I'm going to look into it.
I find that about 100 to 150 watts of solar for each 100 amp hour battery is about right. Go more and you are charged up by noon, although that can still be good if you are charging devices or running a fantastic fan. (Fantastic fans are great with solar because they typically run when the sun is on the roof.) So your system seems about the right size to me. Add more panels and you would have to add more batteries too, or the charge controller will just shut them down earlier. So the right way to size a system is to figure out how many batteries you need for your needs first to get through a night or 2, and then add panels until you get a good charge most days. Seems like what you've done. On the power consumption side it's LED, LED, LED. You don't have to replace all the bulbs, just the ones you use, but sprinkling 6-8 LED bulbs where you use them most is a great investment. You don't have to say replace the cargo light because how often do you actually use it, but the patio light is a no brainer. Also get as small a TV as you can stand and make sure it is LED too. I don't personally use an electric blanket or a Buddy heater. The Buddy is too expensive to run on Coleman bottles, you are just way better off running the furnace. An electric blanket is great if you have shore power, but if not you are just using up battery power that will provide a lot more heat if you just run the furnace. Electric blankets and indeed a safe electric heater are great ways to save propane if you have shore power, but a Buddy heater does practically nothing the OEM furnace can't. But the real beauty of solar is that is a nice, quite, all day charge at a rate the batteries can enjoy. Fast charging a battery at 60 amps from your generator shortens the battery's life, no matter what kind of battery you have. Although with 4 of them I suppose it isn't a problem because they are only getting about 15 amps each, which is a good charge rate. But you still need a good 3-4 hours of gen time to give a good charge. That's the beauty of solar. If properly sized the batteries get some varying amount of charge around 10 amps all day.
Thanks for the tips Art. :) Extra panels are nice for overcast days and short winter poor sun angle. It's one reason I added the 100-watt ground panel after a season with only 400 watts.My Big Buddy heater is plumbed via a quick connect into my RVs low-pressure system so runs off the same two 30lb lp gas cylinders everything else does. Being it's 99% efficient versus the RV furnace that's around 50% I find it saves a lot of lp gas. Also, it makes no noise versus the loud fan in the regular RV furnace which is nice. The Intellipower charger is a multistage smart charger so it won't overcharge the battery as it will sense the rise in voltage and adjust the charge current lower as the batteries become charged. Big lead acids can take a lot of amps when they are depleted. I usually charge them up to 85-90% then let the solar panels finish the job. It does have a manual override to put out a constant 14.4 volts and can be handy but some care is needed not to overdo it. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I think the forced air induction furnaces are more like 80% efficient but you are right it does draw power too and the Buddy is 99% not counting what goes out the window. If you are running it off the tanks then that makes sense. I have a little Coleman that works the same way but I gave up on it because it uses too many bottles and it's not really suited for use with a hose. I don't even use my propane lantern any more because 4 d-cells will last me a season in an LED lantern but the propane lantern can use a bottle in a few nights. Question: Did you have to modify the Buddy to run on LP or does it flow through the regulator adequately with just a hose?
I installed a T off my low-pressure RV gas line the feeds the RV furnace - www.loveyourrv.com/mr-heater-big-buddy-hooked-to-my-rvs-lp-gas/ I have the Big Buddy and it has a low pressure quick connect port. Later on, I added an extra gas shutoff valve beside the T and modded my furnace access - www.loveyourrv.com/easy-access-rv-furnace-panel-modification-plus-gas-valve/ Its the made using the Buddy really simple. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I did not know the Big Buddy has an LP quick connect. Based on that, your solution seems like a great way to get some heat without drawing on the batteries, even if you have to crack a window. I'll check out those videos and rethink it. Even with a window cracked you are probably still getting an effective efficiency better that of the furnace only no batteries and no green bottles. After all the furnace has to vent heat too, you can feel it at the exhaust, so while a crack window reduced the efficiency of the Buddy the furnace is in effect doing the same thing a different way.
Does the computer have a UPS? Just to make sure the computer never drops dead unexpectedly. Its like a power strip with a battery inside that gives you time to save data and shut down in a relaxed fashion. It even beeps to alert you that it kicked on.
Always enjoy your videos!....do you have a video on the fans to keep your fridge cool in hot weather?seem to have a problem in the summer keeping it cold when it gets to over 28c
Thanks, yes here is the install video - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-titan-rv-fridge-and-roof-vent-cooling-fans/ and the review update can be found here - www.loveyourrv.com/20-more-rv-product-review-and-repair-updates/ Cheers! Ray
I use a shore cord from my generator to the shore cord port, this wire is permanently secured along the frame. I have a Champion 3100 inverter wireless generator mounted permanently on the tongue of my travel trailer. This allows the OEM converter to charge 4 GC-2 Batteries. I also have 2 100w solar panels on the roof. When I am using my inverter I use another shore cord that runs from the 1500w inverter to the shore port and turn the converter off by throwing it's breaker. This allows all the appliances other than ac or electric hot water heater, to run through the trailer wiring.
I run very similarly to you but I bought an auto ac switch. It'll default to ac coming from my inverter and soon as it detects voltage on the shore power input it'll switch to that. I ran 10g wire from the inverter for efficiency as my inverter / battery pack is about 20ft from my main oem fuse and in case I ever want to run a bigger inverter.
Great setup and love the info as I'm doing research for my own setup! Looking at battery prices, I'll def be looking at 200ah LiFeP04 batteries instead of the golf cart just due to more bang for the buck, lighter weights, etc... Love the channel keep it up!
Thanks. :) My system is always evolving. Have added a ton of stuff over the years. you can see the most recent incarnation here www.loveyourrv.com/our-rv-boondocking-power-systems-current-state-of-things-2022/
I hate to say it but the damage your doing to your battery with that crappy factory converter/charger far out weigh any sensible use of the intellepower. I have the same rig as you and I ripped out the converter and use the intellepower only. I also put a rotary transfer switch in the kitchen and can toggle between shore or inverter. Its so nice not to have extension cords. I do trip the micro and AC breakers though although with 800A/H prismatic cells and 3000 what inverter with a "real "easy start I can, no problem. I did keep the factory end on the charger cord and I can plug directly in if I want. With these rigs only being a single leg 30 amp its so easy there is no reason not to. But my single greatest improvement was putting in 2 gallon pressure tank on water system. all I did was get a pressure tank for water heater, they are the same as well tanks just half the cost. I think I spent about 16.00 and I put it in basement tapping into water to shower, it dose not mater where you put it. Play with pressure I think mines about 18 lbs, You could put a valve or a quick connect and then you have 2 gals. of very transferable pressurized water . the difference is amazing pump doesn't come on for about 45 sec. with very smooth pres.
Yes, it can be found here - www.loveyourrv.com/dc-to-dc-buck-converter-mod-to-reduce-the-rv-12-vdc-supply-to-4-5-vdc/ also recently updated on how its worked out here - www.loveyourrv.com/many-little-mods-to-our-rv/
Instant Pot Cooker, Dust Buster Vacuum, I can tell you’re a man of fine taste.
Thanks for your no nonsense way of showing what a 500w solar system can do. I am tired of the math methods and don't forget to add 5 to 6k worth of lithium batteries. Your videos are the best
You're welcome. :)
A bit late to the posting but @ 2:10 I had the same 4x set from 2015, they lasted quite a while and were the last of the JCI's. Since `16 Interstate has been contracting with Trojan for their GC2's. Flooded lead acid batteries have their drawbacks but when you consider the cost of todays batteries they are still a good option.
This video has been very helpful. Years ago when we first went off grid we had 600 watts of solar for the house. We eventually grew the system to 5000 watts. Now after 30 years we are starting a new off grid homestead. We just put 400 watts of solar on the roof of our fifth wheel with 200 watts on the ground. We will he living in it until the new house is built.
The weather can get down to -30f so we have a short window of time to get the house done before snow. I have watched a ton of videos rv boondocking. Thank you for your hard work putting this video together.
Hopefully you are somewhere sunny as the days are pretty short right now. We are spending the winter on Vancouver Island and with all the cloud solar output is very low. Cheers, Ray
Hello, this is one of my favorite videos. Last year when we started out no one was using solar. I started out slow and watched a lot of videos. We are thousand trail members so didn't really need solar in the east. Boondocking out in the West solar opens up lots of possibilities. We now have 200 watts solar and 400 amps battery and it is plenty. We also have a generator we run on propane. It will run the entire camper but mostly use it for a few minutes to heat up left overs. We were at quartzsite for some of March and all of April now 2 weeks at Zion
Headed to Bryce Canyon tommorrow. The solar gives us options and saves us money. Thanks for your guidance. We ended up different but similar. Robert
You're welcome, glad you are out there camping enjoying the west. :)
*UPDATE Feb 2020* I've recently installed new Lion Energy Lithium batteries, added two more 100W Renogy solar panels and redid some of the wiring. Check these links for information on the upgrades:
www.loveyourrv.com/boondocking-power-upgrade-200-watts-wiring-update-mods/
www.loveyourrv.com/lion-energy-lithium-battery-ut-1300-review-update/
When you have to replace your batteries . Consider getting some deep cycle batteries . From using deep cycle versus regular , deep cycled performed better across the rate of temps and loads. They also have a flat voltage curve until they reach about 20% capacity . When I was working we alway used deep cycle batteries on remote sites where solar was the only source of power.
I do have the deep cycle, they are 4 - 6 volt GC (golf cart) type batteries :) - www.interstatebatteries.com/recreation-vehicles/golf-cart-batteries
@@LoveYourRV have you looked into lithium iron batteries?
@@standbyme6395 Back 3 1/2 years ago when I bought the 4 Interstate wet cell golf cart batteries for $600 barely anyone was using lithium in an RV and they were horribly expensive. Not many companies were even making them and they needed much more tech expertise to have.
Now they are much more commonplace and there are drop-in lithium RV batteries but still pricey, for me to upgrade I'd have to shell out about $1500-2000 bucks. Not a big priority for me as my batteries are still performing well, serve our needs and we only boondock about 4 months of the year.
In a couple of years when my current batteries decline I'll look at the options out there and see what makes sense for us. I'll be able to see how the early adopters made out. Maybe if I was off the grid most of the year but about 8 months we have plugin power. :)
Also, I have the advantage of a large well-ventilated front compartment and the carrying capacity for the heavier lead acid. Lots of RV types don't have that. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV just an fyi when that time comes look to a common 24v setup. Its actually 25.2v but at that voltage you can combine both ion and iron in the lithium as well as the lead acid and the old school ni-cd together in parallel. Might knock the price down if you are willing to salvage batteries. Thank you for posting.
I liked your video. Being disabled and not particularly rich, I like to dream / design how I would built an RV if I had won a lottery. First, I would start with a brand new school bus. I would go to the factory and order it somewhat customized with some windows missing replaced by the sheet metal not being cut out and also without passenger seats. I have driven school buses and tractor trailers in the past and don't like the feel of a flat nosed cabover bus or truck. I also like the safety and convenience of having 6 or 8 feet of steel between me and anything that may run into my front end plus the engine under the hood is easier to service than one buried in the rear end of a flat nosed bus. I would run as many 160 watt solar panels as would fit on the roof. I would run those into programmable controller(s). Inside, I would have a "U" shaped dining area with a table in the middle and with storage area under the seats for 15 X 12 volt @ 200 AH AGM batteries. 5 under each leg and back of the "U". I would have a 5,000 watt pure sine wave inverter to run the kitchen area, A/C and bathroom. I would also have a 2,000 watt PSW inverter dedicated to the 120 VAC @ 1,400 watt tankless hot water heater. A 750 watt PSW inverter for the 2 TV's, 2 DVD players and 2 satellite receivers and a 150 watt modified sine wave inverter dedicated to run ONLY the LED lighting. At 9 watts per 60 value bulb, I could run as many as 16 bulbs although something the size of a school bus with 16 @ 60 watt bulbs would be lit up like a movie studio but it's nice to have the extra capacity so if we wanted separate outdoor lighting or some such amenities. Why so many inverters? If we don't have a need for high drain devices, I would shut off the 5,000 watter. The 2,000 watter would only be turned on if needed for showers, clothes or dishwashing. The 150 watter would stay on full time if the RV is in use for lighting and safety purposes with very low idle drain on the batteries and the 750 watter so if we fall asleep with the TV on, it won't be a major drain on the batteries with the larger inverters shut off at bedtime. I would have the 5,000 watter so that if any of the other inverters were to die prematurely, I can reroute any of the lesser circuits to it temporarily until the defective inverter is replaced. That's what I like about dreaming. One can spend millions on anything and everything and not have it cost a dime. Plus, NO upkeep, insurance, licensing or vehicle inspection. Have a happy.
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I have had eliminator inverters before and they were not pure sine wave. In fact, I could not buy anything the was purse since wave at Canadian Tire until recently. The 400W inverter I did use had a higher alarm and seemed to drop the voltage quickly. I replaced it with a 600W inverter from AIMS and the difference is amazing for me at least. Thanks for your videos. Henri
You're welcome, I bought my Motomaster Pure Sine Eliminator in 2011, was on for 1/2 price, think I paid around $249 back then. got my money's worth. :) I calculate its had about 5 years of runtime.
yes hi wattahe r7ñslree stuff biger battee reqieéred
I do photography and videography and have been trying to figure out how much solar I’d need to be able to move into an RV and I’ve been stressing about this. But this gave me a lot of confidence that 600w may be the best go to for me.
Hi! This was the first of your videos that I've watched. You have an excellent grasp of everything electrical and some of your viewers, like me, lack that basic understanding. Have you produced a video that lays out the basics on amps, watts, voltage, etc. pertinent to RVs that would serve as a primer? If not, your manner of speaking is ideal for such a lesson. Thanks and happy travels to you both.
Thanks! I haven't done a video specifically like that, I'll add that to my todo list. Here are a couple I've done on the testing equipment I use and carry onboard the RV.
www.loveyourrv.com/electrical-test-gear-aboard-rv-uses/
www.loveyourrv.com/how-to-use-a-multimeter-for-rvers/
I'd want the safety net of auto gen start on those chilly nights with the furnace. Especially out in the desert where you aren't going to bother anyone with the noise.
Great video we don't use a inverter in our rig as we stay in the same RV park when we snowbird to AZ but we do use a 100 watt solar panel in the summer time in Oregon and it keeps our batteries up. We do use a gen if the temp gets to hot or a couple days of rain. A dog or so would help keep Ann warm night and give you a hiking companion.
Great video! Love the Bluetooth to start up the inverter generator!! Great idea to start up when using big amps. Plus it always good to run your EQUIPMENT.
Ray, you are fantastic. You are the sharpest cookie on UA-cam. We will learn from you and get on out there!
I use my Instant Pot to make perfect boiled eggs. The pressure make the eggs peel perfectly! Look up your recipe. I do 5 minutes and immediate removal to a cold bath
Thanks, will give it a try, I find the little cooker works well, can do 7 or 14 at a time. Anne loves it for 2 poached eggs. amzn.to/2E9PmSQ
Thanks for the info
Good video presentation with great advice. I have a similar solar setup on my trailer, four 6 volt golf cart batteries and same 1000 watt inverter. I have a total of 635 watts of solar, 300 of it is portable that I move around the campsite to track the sun. Your setup works great in an open area with no trees to obstruct sunlight. In my case, the campsites that I usually stay at are surrounded by trees, I’m lucky to get direct sunlight for a portion of the day and during certain times of the year when the sun is higher in the sky. I have to carefully select the best site available that provides me with the most sun. I use my inverter sparingly, to watch a movie, make a cup of coffee in the morning and to vacuum the floor every other day. If the skies are overcast everyday or blocked by wildfire smoke, my batteries can serve me for more than a week.
Beautiful!! Love your setup. Thanks for inviting us in.
Wonderful video, thank you! Very helpful. I just installed the Victron Phoenix inverter 800 (560 watts w/ 1500 watt peak). I assumed all kitchen appliances that cooked things, like your pressure cooker and the egg cooker, would consume too many watts, looks like I was wrong! I am off to watch your videos on those two, to learn more about them. I’m really excited to know more. Thank you very much for the video.
Hello, this is a area where I get confused I am a baker and I use mixers that have high speed start ups and require extra power to start up and some power tools all require the same extra boost of power to start up. Because i am trying to build and design multiple systems both stand alone and a intreated system it is hard to understand at times. Also one old online rule of thumb that is online is a person needs 200 to 240 watts of solar panels to recharge one one hundred 100AH battery, so far this is a area that I am still trying to understand fully.
@@hopehope938 If you run appliances with a high start-up surge current, you'll want to get a low-frequency inverter. They are more expensive but can handle higher start-up surge loads
Low Frequency Inverters (LF) www.magnum-dimensions.com/knowledge/high-vs-low-frequency-inverters/inversion-methods-explained-high-frequency-vs-low
Our UL-listed, low frequency inverters and inverter/chargers are the pinnacle of electrical durability. The massive iron core transformer is aptly capable of absorbing surge loads because of the “Flywheel Effect” inherent in the physical amount of a transformer’s iron. LF inverters have larger and more robust Field Effect Transistors (FET’s) that can operate cooler, in part due to the slower frequency of switching required to produce AC power.
The amount of solar panels needed depends on how much energy you'll use each day, the time of year, and how often the skies are clear vs. cloudy. Winter campers need more solar panels than summer campers. People in the cloudy pacific northwest like Seattle need more than, say, sunny Phoenix. Cheers, Ray
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Thank you for this video explanation. You break it all down in a very easy to understand and well spoken manner.
I’m pretty sure that’s the the same camper that I’m currently laying in and watching this video in. Cool video!
It is impressive what can be done with 500 Watts of RV solar.
I'm glad when we met you out in the desert you showed me how to hook up that number five panel I think we will do that sometime in the future. We plan on leaving this area and plan on being on the road by April 1st. Maybe we will cross paths somewhere we're going to head east towards the places you've been already. Thanks for all of the advice now I know what I can use with solar system.. since as I told you we copied yours. Have a great day
You're most welcome. :) We will likely be up somewhere on elevation to the north around that time, maybe Utah or Nevada headed back towards the coast by April. Usually takes us a month to slowly make our way to BC
Our family enjoys your videos. Thank you for your hard work! ???? We have used some of your tips in our own adventures!
Thanks. :)
HI from Mexico .Great video! With the four 232 AH batteries, you power quite a bit! Everything uses a bit, but when you add it all up it's actually a big drain on the system. We make creative videos on a wide variety of topics, all in playlists!
I did not even know such a beast existed a remote start generator! I must have one! Thanks for sharing
Yes, quite a few of the larger generators have models with wireless remotes now.
What is also great is fuel saver generators. My grandfather on my dad's side has one, basically, it's like a car engine in a way, it sits at a low rpm until higher power demand is needed, and it revs up to meet the demand, and it'll rev back down to it's set idle rpm when the demand isn't needed anymore.
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Personally I'm a big fan of solar for RV'ing - mostly because it's quiet and doesn't use consumables. I have a small 12ft off-road trailer with 240W of solar on it. I just recently replaced the lead acid battery with a LiFePO4 Battleborn battery. That gives me 100Ah usable energy in a trailer smaller than my towing vehicle. Some people say it's overkill for a trailer that size, but I can run my fridge/freezer (12/24V compressor fridge) indefinitely with just a little sun. Lights are all LED and the only other bigger consumer is the propane furnace I put in this winter which draws around 3 amps. I didn't wire in an inverter, however I do have one I can plug directly into the battery in case I need to power something with 120V that the onboard inverter in my car can't power (like my wife's hairdryer).
Before upping on inverter or solar panels I'd consider upgrading to lithium batteries. That will give you at least double the storage capacity and they allow you to charge and discharge much quicker than lead acid. I can fully charge my battery in 2 hours flat. Yes, they're expensive but in my book worth it (plus they're a lot lighter, which for my rig is more important since I need to stay as light as possible when I want to go off-road)
Sounds like a great system for a small rig. :) Luckily with my fifth wheel battery weight isn't a big concern and my front compartment is open to the outside air so neither is battery gassing a problem. I installed the lead acid batteries 3 1/2 years ago when lithium choices were much less and much more expensive and required hands-on monitoring. Mow they have drop-in replacements.
I oversized my lead acid bank for our needs but still only needed to spend $600. They have done the job for us.
Would be nice to upgrade to lithium but I can think of many other things I'd rather spend the cash on. ;) Maybe if I was off the grid most of the year but about 8 months we have plugin power.
In a couple of years when my current batteries start to decline, I'll look at the options out there and see what makes sense for us
I'll be able to see how the early adopters made out. The way tech is moving so fast there will be some new thing that is better! Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Even the drop in replacements like the battleborn still needs a charger able to deliver the higher voltage, so in my case I had to replace the onboard converter (funny enough the recommendation was a 30amp version of your generator charge converter). You're right: you only need what you need. I met people who invested a lot into huge lithium setups and they mostly go to RV parks with full hookups - total waste of money. I only have room for one battery, so a Lithium battery gives me the most power in the available space. I just wanted to make sure I don't run out of power in a freezing night with the newly added ducted heater on full blast because that would make the Mrs. really cranky when condensation drips on her cold head in the middle of the night. Nobody wants a cranky Mrs in the rig, so it's definitely worth the investment :-)
@@LoveYourRV I think your system is good, as long as you stay over sized. I also have unsealed lead acid deep cycle and you cant beat the price per amp hour. I have my solar set up going 6 years and counting with my original batteries. I maintain and refill the batteries as needed. I love serviceable products.
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Our fifth wheel doesn’t have solar but my gate opener at home does. We find that we don’t have any problems when we are hooked up to 30 or 50 amp hookups. And that is pretty much running anything although we try not to use the propane stove in the summer. I have two Trojan 220’s that let me run the residential fridge off the inverter for several days and that helps a lot. I’m thinking of expanding the system and maybe adding a revolving mirror disco ball but the LED one. Ok I’m kidding. Love your videos Ray, informative and entertaining.
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Great video, very informative 👍👍thank you. You know what really amazed me though? The fact that you actually say roof! the way it should be, and not the most commonly heard, rof 😄 that I hear so often on UA-cam . Cheers 👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻👍
Must be my Canadian accent. :)
@@LoveYourRV Aaah! that explains it! As you probably know, to many of "us" around the world (I'm in New Zealand ) the American and Canadian accents are hard to differentiate for us, just like the Australian and NZ accents sound the same to most of the world, ( but very different to us! 😃) I just thought you were an American, that spoke proper English ! NO offense to my American FRIENDS!! OK??? 😃👍
I love your setup. A little cleaner than mine and a different approach but we don’t full time. I have 495w on my roof and 160w available outboard solar. I have 2x 6v deep cycles. Because of the difficult setup of my travel trailer (6awg cable buried in the floor, room for only 2 bats) I concentrated on a mainly 12v setup and run a CPAP, fridge and pumps and various chargers from 3 12v/USB combo outlets that I installed with 10 awg cabling. Instead of a large central inverter, I have several small ones that can be plugged into any of the heavy 12v outlets to run laptops or charge drills etc. Up to 300w can be run on any of the outlets but I mostly use a very small 125w inverter for most tasks. My solar is sized to provide a full charge from 20% in a day around the equinox but the extra size helps a lot in the area I camp in most, Vancouver Island, which is not known for it’s sunny weather. I keep a very small 800w 2 stroke generator around for emergency charging and it can power a 30a charger. I very rarely need it. Unlike your well planned system, mine was built in stages and is actually 3 parallel systems using 3 chargers in parallel. This mostly works fine but there is a weird transition you have to watch for as each system switches from boost to float. It pays to plan ahead.
Enjoy your informative videos. I especially enjoy your hiking videos. I haven't been able to hike for a while. Having hip replacement on Friday. Hopefully can get back to hiking again
Thanks, Wishing you the best outcome. All the best, Ray
Really good video shows actual usage just someone can get an idea of what 500 watts can do
Happy and safe travels
OK so you lost me at about 2:00 min. Man I wish I had even half of your knowledge. Stay safe guy's appreciate your videos
When I had a RV I installed a 12V compressor fridge in it, they work really well even if it's hot outside, those absorption fridges struggle when it's hot. I think your solar system would handle such a fridge easily.
Maybe when the absorption packs it in again I'll think of getting a compressor one. The one we have is just a few years old and we got it free under extended warranty when the old one's cooling unit quit. It actually works much better than the original, cools really well even in the summer heat. I think they must have improved them. We also don't see extremely high temps being snowbirds usually we are in mild climates.
I lived near there when i was 11, (1967) apart from the beautiful and plentiful wildlife...i remember yellow coors beer cans ....all over the roads..are they still there?
I didn't see any, so guess they rusted away :) , here is a video I did of the area while camped - ua-cam.com/video/8AEig1abSZw/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
You made a awesome video for 2019 keep up the good hard work.
I thought you where in central Australia for a second,I am from Alice springs very similar
Thank you Ray!....I apologize for not reading through all the posts, but, could you share more about your Digital Weather station panel and how you chose that particular one?
Oh, and, you rock! keep it up Bro.
Thanks, here is the install post - www.loveyourrv.com/installed-la-crosse-weather-station-wind-speed-rv/ I also installed a buck converter later on so I didn't need to use batteries in the display - www.loveyourrv.com/dc-to-dc-buck-converter-mod-to-reduce-the-rv-12-vdc-supply-to-4-5-vdc/ and here is an updated review clip I did - ua-cam.com/video/k9esJJZ6OW4/v-deo.html Cheers! Ray
@@LoveYourRV Awesome, thank you for all the fantastic details.
Lol you can steam 6 or 7 eggs in the instant pot mini in 6 minutes, among other things. Great video, looks like a nice area.
Thanks. :) We have an Instant Pot too, its much heavier and takes more power to run. Also the little egg cooker does perfect poached eggs.
at 18:49 when you are showing the sky... How many days can you have like that before you need the generator?
The average was around 2 - 4 days. It varied depending on how energy conscious we became and how cold it was. The colder the weather the higher our energy use was due to the furnace fan using so much energy at night. Also if it was winter and the days were shorter we use more energy because we are inside more and using lights and entertainment electronics versus the long days of summer and doing outside activities more. Cheers, Ray
This is probably the best video on UA-cam explaining what you can actually run on a 500w system.
Thank you so much for this, we're fitting 500 watts in our off grid cottage and now have at least some idea of how much energy we will have.
Have you guys considered a cheap Chinese diesel heater? They're about £80 so that's probably just over a hundred dollars and they blow out tons of heat and are cheap to run.
Thanks again and take care.
We have a Big Buddy portable propane heater that does a good job of warming us up and doesn't use too much LP gas compared to the RV gas furnace, I plumbed it into the low-pressure RV gas line with a quick connect for easy use. But I don't think I'd want to add a different fuel source like a diesel tank to the trailer and wouldn't have much trust in a cheap diesel heater. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I totally understand your concern and they actually run from a small separate fuel tank. They're 100% safe and it's shocking how many people have them now, plus there's zero condensation from the heat.
Lots of videos on UA-cam about them just in case you get curious.
Thanks again for that great explanation again.
I remember back in the old days the Volkswagon vans had factory diesel heaters installed, which was kinda cool. From having a diesel pickup truck for years now I know how messy and smelly diesel fuel can be if any spills. Just not something I'd want in the trailer, also I'm sure there are major implications to consider as far as insurance goes, adding a whole new fuel tank and lines. I bet not many are having these DIY installs are getting certified. ;) I guess we'll wait and see how this fad turns out as all these cheap heaters start to age. All the best, Ray
@@LoveYourRV you're 100% correct about the insurance and the potential smell isn't something you want in your home.
We have a truma diesel heater in our German fabricated campervan and the Chinese model in our VW T4, they're both great but I know which one most people would appreciate lol
Good info Ray. I’m going to do just what you said, install a battery monitor to see what my actual draw is so I can plan a solar array the will work for my needs. 👍
Impressive wire management!!👍🏻👍🏻
@cgwworldministries care to elaborate on the negative points? Or are you just a troll?
that's what i said
I'd disagree with you on this one. I was like EEEeeeeeeeeeerrrrr, but I've done wiring a bit cleaner in stereos and PCs but this wiring isn't bad by any means, it's a lot cleaner then most for sure but my first thought was 'yuck' haha.
My OCD is on overdrive :P
I do like your weather station. maybe you can share a link and the mods you did with it?
Here is the one I had www.loveyourrv.com/installed-la-crosse-weather-station-wind-speed-rv/ but have since upgraded to a www.loveyourrv.com/christmas-rv-goodie-deluxe-weather-station-for-the-rig/ and really like it
@@LoveYourRV when I opened the link, sadly to say it does not look like the one in this video. about my solar, I am going to verify all connections this coming week. and I am considering removing the inline fuses to see if there is any improvement , don't worry, i also have circuit breakers between the panels and charge controllers. yep, i have heard similar comments from others, thanks
I suggest looking at replacing your furnace thermostat those analog Colman ones are iffy at best. I bought a digital Honeywell that can run off two AA batteries but I put in a 12vdc to 3vdc buck converter so I don't need to worry about it.
Thanks, have had digital for many years now - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-thermostat-upgrade-honeywell-focuspro-5000/
Has to switch back when the digital failed where I couldn't easily get a replacement - ua-cam.com/video/k9esJJZ6OW4/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV any house one will work they're just a bunch of relays. Powering them is the hard part as they need 24volts. But if they have battery back-up you can just give them power that way.
Yeah, I know thanks, I went with the FocusPro 5000 because it works off the batteries but also auto switches between heating and cooling mode, some of them you have to manual switch, which can be a pain in certain climates. Cheers, Ray
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This was a wonderful idea to show what your system will keep up with. Thanks Ray!
Thank you for for all the information I will be sure to save it and I am ready to hook up my solar system right now I am going to be stripping down and reconstructing an old RV that's about 26 ft
26 too 62 kw all éktric rv
This is a great example of all the bells and whistles you can get into. Have you tried using small wind turbines in addition to your solar panels?
No, haven't tried wind turbines, figure they would be noisey or vibrate the RV and a pain to setup and take down.
@@LoveYourRV You are right, much harder to set up than solar panels because of the height and weight. I just got one recently and had it out on the ice. The noise is actually cool sounding and makes you feel like you are gaining a lot of power. It might be hard to sleep with it attached to a camper but you could set it away and run an regular extension chord to the turbine. I got mine for an ice fishing shack and running heat in a small old camper. We don't really ice fish, we are snowkiting and using the camper as a place to wait for the wind or warm up. I ran solar first and had so much wind I thought I'd be the only person on the lake with a wind mill. It is fun and I got it to work but something drained my battery the first time I tried it and I had no heat at all. I pulled the camper home, charged the battery and will try again in my yard to see if the wind turbine has a parasitic draw. I'll share a video of it once I get it figured out. Your solar power with all those batteries is probably the way to go. I never thought of running TV/computers, blender etc. Looks like you and your wife are having a great time in paradise. Great Video!
@@LoveYourRV sail bibóatß jave wid génerratórs
Thanks clear and definitely good information to a new restoration old camper I've been working on !! 🤔😊🤗🐸❤️
Very informative and such a nice meticulous layout!
Great video Ray like always and a rare Ann sighting 👍
Regarding the boxes etc that you sit on the ground, what's the protocol dealing with creepy crawlies and snakes that can potentially get in them?
You ever have issues with creepy crawlies getting inside the camper?
I haven't, since I camp in the winter months. During the winter in the desert the nights get quite cold. Most of the creepy crawlers are hibernating underground for the season. Rare to see one.
@@LoveYourRV Good to know. Thx!
Brilliant, lots of power with minimal tech or gadgets , thanks
Thanks Ray. That was a good overall look at things and very informative.
Use your Instapot to hard boiled eggs, 5 minute after at pressure for a dozen eggs. They come out great and peal easy.
Thanks! I got it for her as a stocking stuffer for Christmas, was only 20 bucks, but she uses it a lot, she likes to poach eggs and it makes two really quick! She sprays the little plastic tray with cooking spray making it really easy to clean up.
It does a good job at making soft medium and hard based just on how much water is added, the push one button
I've tried the Instant Pot, works well but this is much smaller and lighter, so easier for Anne.
Great video, Ray. I was just in Tucson on business last week -- wish I had known you were there! Safe travels, my friend!
awespiring creative clever and concise video presented in a nonsense way safe healthy and joyfull journeys ahead
I really like my Olympic Wave 8 that I really like a little open window and it's great.
I am interested in this egg cooker. I am hooked up to shore power not quite ready to venture off the plug yet Ray! I am also glad you are not on the Lithium battery band wagon too. Thanks Ray I will be checking on the wireless generator too.
Lithium is great but I decided to put my money into a new truck! :) The old school lead acids do the job. Still, have at least 3 years left in them I figure. Cheers! Ray
Ray, could you give a link to the generator? It's on my list too. Thanks!
Here is a link to my initial review - www.loveyourrv.com/energizer-portable-inverter-generator-review/ and my update - www.loveyourrv.com/20-more-rv-product-review-and-repair-updates/
and my review of my older Champions - www.loveyourrv.com/champion-generator-review-5-years-use/
Great Video.... Just wondering about your GENERATOR... I didn't catch any of the information as to the size, power output and what all it can handle.... Thanks in advance for your response...
Thanks, it was one I was reviewing called a Energizer 3200 watt Here is the link to the review www.loveyourrv.com/energizer-portable-inverter-generator-review/ Has a couple of videos. Cheers, Ray
Technically your running off the batteries not solar. The inverter is connected to the batteries and provides AC power to your devices. The solar panels simply charge the batteries. The more solar the faster your batteries are recharged. If running a generator, depending upon how it's wired into the system (or how you wire it into your system) it can provide both power to your outlets as well as recharge your batteries.
When sizing an off-grid system you calculate your daily power usage. Then you size your storage (batteries) based upon that usage plus the total number of days you want to be able to run without fully recharging them. Then based upon that you can determine the size of the solar system you need. As part of that calculation you determine how quickly you want to fully recharge your storage. There are things that come into play such as peak hours for your location, efficiency derate due to inverter and wire resistence as well as charging efficiency.
For a system like Rays (and mine) your inverter and storage is typically sized based upon space, cost and weight. You're typically only running a few things with the knowledge that you have a generator as backup. And the solar is simply there to recharge the batteries at whatever rate you happen to get where you're located. In the end if it meets your needs that's all you really need.
The current accepted way to describe the size of a solar-battery system is my using the power production max of the solar cells.
Currently we’re ok with our harbor freight solar panels. But i do want to get golf cart batteries instead of car/truck batteries. And yes, system backed by a dual fuel generator
I wouldn't even attempt your solar system hookup. That is awesome. Wandering Rick 😎😂😆
Good morning Ray, you know we copy everything you do. And you also know I have a new small motorhome I'm thinking of only putting a 100 or 200 W solar system on top of that motorhome. Do you have any recommendations I see this one is for a 500 watt way too big for what I need. Hope you're having safe travels on your way home
Renogy makes some decent kits. Or BougeRV has this 180W panel for a decent price www.bougerv.com/collections/solar-panels/products/rv-solar-panels-for-sale
I'm going to be testing and reviewing their newest controller when I get back to BC. www.bougerv.com/collections/solar-controller/products/40a-mppt-solar-charge-controller
Once I get it I could send you out the one I'm currently using no charge. Just a thought. Here is what it looks like www.bougerv.com/collections/solar-controller/products/charge-controller-1 Its good for up to 520W of panels and lithium ready.
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Nice setup, neighbor.. (i live permanent in my RV outside of Tucson).. I was wondering how two people could run on only 500 watts.. It is because you run your refrigerator on propane.. I run a small fridge with 1000 watt solar setup.. Just about everything else is identical,, TV,, computers,, lights,, cooking,, vampire loads,, etc.. I use up my propane budget keeping the place warm because I like it warm just like Ann does.. 😎
I'm newly branched into this world of building solar setups. Being 24 years old, I'm excited as it's a bit much to take in. Seems like these will be some great life skills. I'm trying to better understand to work out the math for my build.
I'm unsure of how to calculate usage while not being in my own environment. That way I know I'm building my setup accurate. I plan on using most thing you use. Just wanting to wrap my brain around it is all. Thanks for such an awesome video!
@@dezanicleaver2682 = Hi,, not sure if this was directed at the OP or me.. ..
# of panels is how much electricity you use each ~hour 'x' 2....
# of batteries is how long you want to run those with no sun..
The reason to double the panels is you have to account for losses..
Losses in solar panels,, wiring,, charge controller,, more wiring,, inverter,,
more wiring,, and batteries..
ie: my setup I have 1000 watts of panels..
The most I use at anyone time "ON AVERAGE" is about 500 watts..
I have 900 amp hours of battery/450 usable.. ( 8-Trojan T-105's)
I could easily use double the batteries,, but my wallet says no..
If this was not directed at me.... well, you can see that there are a lot of people
that share your excitement at being free of the electrical grid..
Good Luck.. Happy Trails.!!
Wow. You did a lot of nice work! Great video and ideas!
I’m considering adding 300-400 more watts of solar partly to offset the 30% decrease in Dec & Jan due to the lower sun angle and not have to run the generator at all unless we need A/C. While boondocking in January, I needed to run the generator a lot as the 400 watts of panels only generated about 85 amp-hours on a good day. On many days, it was scattered clouds and I would only get about 50-60 amp-hours. We do use our Instant Pot almost every day as well as a Keurig coffee maker so our needs are a bit higher. Great video on a subject where there seems to be a lot of confusion.
That Keurig coffee maker uses a lot of electricity because it has to keep a certain amount of water hot all the time when on. Have you considered an automatic drip coffee maker then just poor it into a large thermos to keep it hot.
@@jimthvac100 Our daughter gave us a mini Nespresso cartridge espresso maker (does the coffee and nothing more) and it draws 1025 watts when the heating element is on. We always remember to turn it off between uses (it heats up again in about 30 seconds) if only because the 900W inverter trips off if we engage the microwave before turning off the espresso machine.
@@audiophilephile
jimthvac100
I got a $20 KUPS and Coffee grounds coffee maker at WALLY World. You put the water in, coffee in and hit ON... it brews and then the power is OFF. 5-6 mins at @1000watts.
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What a beautiful setup Mine looks like a bowl of Spaghetti
When I was still driving long haul I had a 12 volt warming blanket. It went under the bottom sheet. Man it was nice. I could run it all night in temps at -40° and never kill the battery.
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Thanks for your informative video. I am building a similar system in a smaller trailer and using 3 - 100 amp hour 12V batts charged by 420 watts PV on the roof and another 100W PV panel I can plug in as you have done. What's curious is your battery setup: four 6V wired to produce, effectively, two 12V batts (or, one big 12V batt)... so I would like to ask, respectfully, are you certain of your claimed 460 amp hour battery capacity? I ask because it may well be just 230 amp hours... either way, your system is working for you which is great news for me since I'm using a similarly-sized batt bank and panel array, PLUS - I'm using the Bogart Engineering duo you feature.
Yes, your vid is three years old (or my comments three years late, depending) but I'm here to say thanks (again) for your presentation. Safe travels to you. I'll go look on your channel for any updates. Be well.
Yes, the batteries were four 6V Interstate golf cart type with an amp hour rating of 232 each. They were wired in a series-parallel arrangement. When the batteries are series wired, the voltage doubles, and the amp hours stay the same, so 2 in series make a 12V 232Ah battery. The pair are paralleled with the other series pair. The voltage stays the same when you parallel batteries, but the amp hour capacity doubles. So 232 x 2 = 464.
Having said that, to prolong battery lifespan, the rule of thumb with lead acid batteries is to avoid letting them get below 50% state of charge, so the effective capacity is 232 amp hours. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV 10-4! Thanks again!
Hello. I was perusing solar videos as Im designing my new system for my new camper. I have a 600 watt full signwave inverter. It is easy to wire to the outlet breaker. When hooked to shore power if I have the inverter turned off will shore power damage my inverter. I could unplug or put an in line switch. Just wondering if necessary to disconnect. It would be handy to have all plugs hot when boondocking.
I guess it depends on the inverter I would ask the company that makes it. Most people will install a transfer switch either manual or auto. Myself I decide to just add a pair of extra dedicated outlets for my 1000W inverter and keep the two power systems completely separate - ua-cam.com/video/yV2xJiHSbfU/v-deo.html At some point if I have spare cash I may upgrade to a 2000W or 3000W inverter and at that time will likely install an inverter subpanel and move some of my RV's AC circuits over to it and always run them off the inverter. I think that's a better option for me versus a transfer switch.
I already have a 600 watt. Pure sine wave inverter and it will be very easy to wire into the breaker that fuses all the outlets. To be safe i will put a switch inline.
When I boondock I run a extension cord from the 2K inverter to the shore power connection of the trailer that way every plug in the trailer is activated if I don't do that the only things that work on A/C is the TV the refrigerator and 2 plugs on each side of the bed, and nowadays the newer trailers have power recliners that heat and vibrate and when I run the generator i plug the plug into the generator...I only have 265 watts one panel but I am going to add a matching panel that will give me 530 watts and I have 3 lithium 100ah for 300ah but I can use 90% and I am thinking of added 1 more battery for a total of 400ah.
Heat and massage recliners... That's what I call boondocking!
Do you have a connection to charge your battery on the shore power plug, through the converter? That would give a feedback cycle that will run down your battery quickly.
I may be wrong, but I've heard that you can't actually use 90% without killing lithium batteries, just the same as lead acid or AGM, etc. Are you sill using them, and are they still going?
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I love your 60 amp battery charger and the way your have it connected.. Great idea.
Thanks, its cut the generator run time by 1/2 or 1/3 compared to the OEM setup. In my trailer the charger is installed in the living area about 20-25 feet of 6GA cable away from the battery compartment. It did a horrible job of charging my battery bank.
Not only was it a cheaper quality WFCO charger with that much cable there was a significant voltage drop tricking the charger into thinking the batteries were much more charged then they actually were.
My theory is the OEMs do that to prevent overcharging the battery. Better for it to be undercharged and not last as long than overcharged and possible off gas and boil over. Cheers, Ray
Thanks that was really helpful to better understand what you really can do with solar / batteries.
You are one of many who state they use a DC to AC inverter to power a small electronic device that has a DC need. The plug for an Ipad converts AC to DC. Would a DC to DC stepper be a better choice?
Marginally, the energy savings is pretty minute when it comes to charging small devices like phones and tablets.
Thank you so much for your explanation and how you manage with what you have , very helpful
as we are considering solar and have a better idea on what we can expect.Great vid
You're welcome, thanks for watching :)
Nice setup, love your Ram!!
You always find some of the most beautiful and secluded spots! I always make little notes to add to my bucket list. Thank You! We plan to do solar when we upgrade our Rig so watching this is so fascinating. I've always wondered how full-time RV'ers with solar use the power on a daily basis and if you have enough to get you through the evening. Looks like your solar set-up takes care of all your power needs, with a little extra to spare. Very cool!
Have a Great Day!
👍🌈😀🌈
Thanks that is always our goal on our snowbird trips, camp in beautiful surroundings with some elbow room. Luckily the southwest is full of them. :)
Surprisingly the stuff was not stolen at night!
Why? nothing really special about the stuff.
Thanks for the Great, informative info. Well done, keep it up. Enjoy Az in February
FYI, I installed a master swich for my stereo to completely kill power when I want to.
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Very informative video. What kind of generator do you have outside. Is it a generator inverter? My husband are debating the best way to go...just a generator or generator inverter. If you have a video explaining the difference please send a link.
It's a Champion 2000 watt inverter generator. Here is a video demo it and another called an Energizer - www.loveyourrv.com/energizer-2000w-portable-generator-review/ It's best if you can afford to get an inverter type as they are much quieter and use less fuel. Inverter generators can run at reduced RPM when full power is not required. Non inveter generators are cheaper but run a full RPM all the time so use more fuel and are annoying to fellow campers to listen to. They are more sutable for use at a construciton site. Cheers, Ray
Love Your RV thank you! You actually helped with our debate
Nice review Ray!
Happy Trails!!!
Thanks for showing me my "loose end" on my solar set up. Do you change anything when h/u on shore power - disconnect solar?
Guess I should have watch 5 more mins b4 asking... Homer moment.
love this video we are planing a trip to Alaska an we wanted to know what we would need to boondocks we will be traveling in a class B and I don't know how much we would need as to fridge etc so you filled in a lot the things your using is what we use so far thanks you safe travels
Cool! hope you have a great trip, cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I saw that video but was wondering any advise on it for a class B
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Very helpful, real-world video. Chock full of neat ideas. Thanks much!
Great video! I’m looking to buy my first RV. This was helpful!
Thanks, good to hear. :)
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New Subscriber. Like your videos. Your rig is way more fancier than my little skoolie, but I enjoy your topics!
Thanks, everything is relative as our rig is pretty meager compared to many. :) Cheers, Ray
Born and raised in AZ lived here my whole life. BAWR is home of the endangered, protected masked bobwhite quail. Enjoy this beautiful state!
Thank you, really love to visit AZ and BAWR. Last time we saw the biggest JackRabbit we've ever seen!. :) ua-cam.com/video/HPQfWXTFiKk/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV Wonderful footage. They get significantly larger than that too, but they spook VERY easily and take off faster than you can imagine. I've seen them as tall as 30" from dirt to top of ears. That whole area down there is simply breathtaking. People don't believe Arizona has "big sky country" until they head south around Bisbee.
Do you have the smile flag so you can be found more easily if you need help? Or just decorating?
Both, we like it, shows us wind direction and rough speed, makes people smile, if some one if coming to visit its easy for them to find us, same if we had to call the authorities for some reason. Makes us easy to find. Also in some terrains it helps me find the rig when hiking. I've even had other hikers thank me as they could see my flag and know where they were when lost. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV right on... It was something that just stood out and was curious 😇
@ Love your RV What is your opinion about 500W wind generator? No sun but probably windy...
I figure a wind turbine would be noisy and vibrate the rig, a pain to set up plus takedown when winds are too high. I think they may be suitable for a smaller RV where there isn't much roof space for lots of solar panels or a place that doesn't get a lot of sunshine or if at a place long enough and could set up the wind turbine away from the RV.
@@LoveYourRV Yeah, slim potato head (UA-cam channel name) had a wind generator, he actually had done a video on it. He said in the same video that it shook his camper due to all the high wind he had got caught in. And in a later video that he did, he said that the reason why it dissapeared is because it was a pain.
You’re going to run out of water before you run out of power!👍
Well done as usual. I didn't see mention of a microwave!! Did I miss it? My DW would never agree to boondocking without one. Truth be told I'd miss it too. Our inverter is 900W and will run our Panasonic 1350W (max input) inverter microwave up to level 6 or 7. Typically we use level 5 and double the time we would use on level 10 though many foods cook/heat best at level 5 and would be heated there in any event. Our propane central heat was a big electricity user until I bypassed all the lossy under-floor ducts and ran them directly into the heated space with the longest one now about five feet long and any duct losses going back into the heater air intake. That cut our 5-6 amp heater fan motor use by well more than half. Also, because the RV now heats up very quickly we don't usually run the heat at night, instead we turn the heat on 20 minutes before we get up (well, before DW gets up). If we expect inside temperature to get down around 40F, we sometimes do set the thermostat there overnight.
Thanks. :) No didn't miss it. We don't use the microwave much so didn't bother hooking into its power, I prefer to cook with the gas stove top and oven, BBQ or Instant Pot. 40F would never work for my wife she gets too cold at night so I bought her an electric throw blanket, its been a big hit, so she can use that at night and I can save running the furnace and using propane up. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV My DW does not complain about the cold if I get up (briefly) to turn the heat on before she does. But, I think I could get some big points with the electric throw blanket. I'm going to look into it.
need 20⁰0 wàtt ac omvertor rún míçrowave overñ 1500 wàts
@@LoveYourRV My wife needs a warm bed also! Got us a heated mattress pad = happy wife / happy life!
I find that about 100 to 150 watts of solar for each 100 amp hour battery is about right. Go more and you are charged up by noon, although that can still be good if you are charging devices or running a fantastic fan. (Fantastic fans are great with solar because they typically run when the sun is on the roof.) So your system seems about the right size to me. Add more panels and you would have to add more batteries too, or the charge controller will just shut them down earlier. So the right way to size a system is to figure out how many batteries you need for your needs first to get through a night or 2, and then add panels until you get a good charge most days. Seems like what you've done.
On the power consumption side it's LED, LED, LED. You don't have to replace all the bulbs, just the ones you use, but sprinkling 6-8 LED bulbs where you use them most is a great investment. You don't have to say replace the cargo light because how often do you actually use it, but the patio light is a no brainer. Also get as small a TV as you can stand and make sure it is LED too.
I don't personally use an electric blanket or a Buddy heater. The Buddy is too expensive to run on Coleman bottles, you are just way better off running the furnace. An electric blanket is great if you have shore power, but if not you are just using up battery power that will provide a lot more heat if you just run the furnace. Electric blankets and indeed a safe electric heater are great ways to save propane if you have shore power, but a Buddy heater does practically nothing the OEM furnace can't.
But the real beauty of solar is that is a nice, quite, all day charge at a rate the batteries can enjoy. Fast charging a battery at 60 amps from your generator shortens the battery's life, no matter what kind of battery you have. Although with 4 of them I suppose it isn't a problem because they are only getting about 15 amps each, which is a good charge rate. But you still need a good 3-4 hours of gen time to give a good charge. That's the beauty of solar. If properly sized the batteries get some varying amount of charge around 10 amps all day.
Thanks for the tips Art. :)
Extra panels are nice for overcast days and short winter poor sun angle. It's one reason I added the 100-watt ground panel after a season with only 400 watts.My Big Buddy heater is plumbed via a quick connect into my RVs low-pressure system so runs off the same two 30lb lp gas cylinders everything else does. Being it's 99% efficient versus the RV furnace that's around 50% I find it saves a lot of lp gas. Also, it makes no noise versus the loud fan in the regular RV furnace which is nice.
The Intellipower charger is a multistage smart charger so it won't overcharge the battery as it will sense the rise in voltage and adjust the charge current lower as the batteries become charged. Big lead acids can take a lot of amps when they are depleted.
I usually charge them up to 85-90% then let the solar panels finish the job.
It does have a manual override to put out a constant 14.4 volts and can be handy but some care is needed not to overdo it.
Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I think the forced air induction furnaces are more like 80% efficient but you are right it does draw power too and the Buddy is 99% not counting what goes out the window. If you are running it off the tanks then that makes sense. I have a little Coleman that works the same way but I gave up on it because it uses too many bottles and it's not really suited for use with a hose. I don't even use my propane lantern any more because 4 d-cells will last me a season in an LED lantern but the propane lantern can use a bottle in a few nights.
Question: Did you have to modify the Buddy to run on LP or does it flow through the regulator adequately with just a hose?
I installed a T off my low-pressure RV gas line the feeds the RV furnace - www.loveyourrv.com/mr-heater-big-buddy-hooked-to-my-rvs-lp-gas/ I have the Big Buddy and it has a low pressure quick connect port. Later on, I added an extra gas shutoff valve beside the T and modded my furnace access - www.loveyourrv.com/easy-access-rv-furnace-panel-modification-plus-gas-valve/ Its the made using the Buddy really simple. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I did not know the Big Buddy has an LP quick connect. Based on that, your solution seems like a great way to get some heat without drawing on the batteries, even if you have to crack a window. I'll check out those videos and rethink it. Even with a window cracked you are probably still getting an effective efficiency better that of the furnace only no batteries and no green bottles. After all the furnace has to vent heat too, you can feel it at the exhaust, so while a crack window reduced the efficiency of the Buddy the furnace is in effect doing the same thing a different way.
búy
New Generator, New Dodge, Keeping up with the Jefferson's.
Does the computer have a UPS? Just to make sure the computer never drops dead unexpectedly. Its like a power strip with a battery inside that gives you time to save data and shut down in a relaxed fashion. It even beeps to alert you that it kicked on.
No, the combo of my 4 big RV batteries and the 1000 watt inverter does the UPS function. So far 8 years and not one power outage. :)
Always enjoy your videos!....do you have a video on the fans to keep your fridge cool in hot weather?seem to have a problem in the summer keeping it cold when it gets to over 28c
Thanks, yes here is the install video - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-titan-rv-fridge-and-roof-vent-cooling-fans/ and the review update can be found here - www.loveyourrv.com/20-more-rv-product-review-and-repair-updates/
Cheers! Ray
I use a shore cord from my generator to the shore cord port, this wire is permanently secured along the frame. I have a Champion 3100 inverter wireless generator mounted permanently on the tongue of my travel trailer. This allows the OEM converter to charge 4 GC-2 Batteries. I also have 2 100w solar panels on the roof. When I am using my inverter I use another shore cord that runs from the 1500w inverter to the shore port and turn the converter off by throwing it's breaker. This allows all the appliances other than ac or electric hot water heater, to run through the trailer wiring.
I run very similarly to you but I bought an auto ac switch. It'll default to ac coming from my inverter and soon as it detects voltage on the shore power input it'll switch to that. I ran 10g wire from the inverter for efficiency as my inverter / battery pack is about 20ft from my main oem fuse and in case I ever want to run a bigger inverter.
Holy cow that’s a nice setup
Great setup and love the info as I'm doing research for my own setup! Looking at battery prices, I'll def be looking at 200ah LiFeP04 batteries instead of the golf cart just due to more bang for the buck, lighter weights, etc... Love the channel keep it up!
Thanks. :) My system is always evolving. Have added a ton of stuff over the years. you can see the most recent incarnation here www.loveyourrv.com/our-rv-boondocking-power-systems-current-state-of-things-2022/
yes
I hate to say it but the damage your doing to your battery with that crappy factory converter/charger far out weigh any sensible use of the intellepower. I have the same rig as you and I ripped out the converter and use the intellepower only. I also put a rotary transfer switch in the kitchen and can toggle between shore or inverter. Its so nice not to have extension cords. I do trip the micro and AC breakers though although with 800A/H prismatic cells and 3000 what inverter with a "real "easy start I can, no problem. I did keep the factory end on the charger cord and I can plug directly in if I want. With these rigs only being a single leg 30 amp its so easy there is no reason not to. But my single greatest improvement was putting in 2 gallon pressure tank on water system. all I did was get a pressure tank for water heater, they are the same as well tanks just half the cost. I think I spent about 16.00 and I put it in basement tapping into water to shower, it dose not mater where you put it. Play with pressure I think mines about 18 lbs, You could put a valve or a quick connect and then you have 2 gals. of very transferable pressurized water . the difference is amazing pump doesn't come on for about 45 sec. with very smooth pres.
Do you have a video on how you added power to the weather statation?
Yes, it can be found here - www.loveyourrv.com/dc-to-dc-buck-converter-mod-to-reduce-the-rv-12-vdc-supply-to-4-5-vdc/ also recently updated on how its worked out here - www.loveyourrv.com/many-little-mods-to-our-rv/
I have a question that I have not seen posted do you have any problems with critters in Az. Like Spiders, Scorpions ??
I haven't had any issues going on 8 years visiting the southwest in the winter season