I just got an old ski doo tundra 2 I've been trying to learn about basic maintenance for this season. This was the only video that gave me the full process. Thanks for the great video.
Dave gald you talked about this , because it's happened to me and lost prime.....another great video as always....where is the snow!!! I got a trip planned in cochrane 2nd week of February. This is my first year buying a sled!! Your videos have helped tremendously with working on my seld over last 4 months....maybe one day we'll run into each other riding, be awesome!
Hey T, thanks for taking the time to comment. Yeah it's a simple problem once you know what it is. I'm trying to stay hopeful about the snow. I hope you get some riding in. Congrats on the new sled.
As always another informative video about sleds. With this knowledge owners can certainly get longer service and better understanding of how they work. Thx
Good information Dave, I'll definitely take a look at Lube-Shuttle. A little on the pricey side, but I like the no mess feature. I keep doing the snow dance, but no snow in Northwest Ohio since the end of December, and nothing in sight.😪
Definitely for standard grease jobs, where the less expensive grease is more than sufficient, it’s worth the extra cost. As i mentioned, if people are really married to a specific snowmobile product, then they may hang on to both types. Hope you get some snow! What shop projects are you working on these days?
@@MyOldSled Just tweaking my Dragon, adding a few things, and finished up the 84 SS. Built a few things, will have some videos on those projects. Take care Dave
A few tips for greasing a sled, dealing with some common issues with grease guns, and a look at a totally different type of gun from Lube -Shuttle . *NOTE: The grease fitting for the drive axle referenced is common to other sleds as well. Thanks Hugh Stratton for commenting.*
Thanks David for the very informative video. Love the new garage, I must have missed some videos, better check my settings. Going to consider the grease gun for sure and definitely need to add a Lube or 2 during the season. Thanks. Also just looking at website, building my own gun, which grease option is the low temp in the synthetic, i can only see the basic description but doesn’t talk about temps.
I only grease once per season, we don't get enough snow to put on enough miles to justify greasing more than once. I use Mobil1 synthetic. I bought a LockNLube coupler for my grease gun a few years ago. I highly recommend, worth every penning.
Hard to diagnose a problem via chat. What kind of sled. Did you do anything to it before it started? Bogging when? When you give it gas? When did you clean the carbs last? Lots of things can make a sled bog.
It’s a 1996 ski doo 500 sls I clean carb last year. I prime it 3 times and it starts very easy to start. It bogging when I’m in deep snow or warm weather.
Where did you set the air screw? The air screw adjusts how lean or rich the mixture is at idle, so if it's not turned out enough, then it will run a bit rich at idle and that could, especially in warm weather or at low running speeds, cause it to foul plugs and make it bog when you squeeze the throttle. I find with my 670, it was set a bit on the rich side and this would happen to me if I rode it slow or in warm weather. Pull the plugs and clean them off or replace them and its fine as long as I'm not too light on the throttle. Pull the plugs, are they wet? So I think the air screw on your sled should be 1.75, but you should find out for sure. A lot of guys either turn them out a turn and a half, or do whatever it was set at, which really isn't the right approach. Best to find out the factory settings. I THINK its 1.75 but don't trust me, make sure. I don't have that info handy for your sled and lean is worse than rich as it runs hot and causes damage.
Hi Dave. You might remember me from previous discussions. I have a 1997 Ski-Doo Grand Touring 583. Rode 12 miles yesterday and then heard some minor squealing sounds. Thought maybe I could smell something but you know how your mind can race and assume you smell something. 😊 So I went a little further to see if it would go away thinking maybe something was just stuck and would work it's way out. It almost went away but I stopped when it occurred to me it may be my belt coming off. It wasn't that and the sound was gone while running with cowl up moving it. A Police Officer happened to be stopped there so he helped me check that. He couldn't find anything wrong as it sat. I decided to continue on. No more squealing but then it felt wobbly, like riding a bike with loose tire. That eventually went away so I thought all was good. After riding about 10 miles I noticed my speedometer wasn't working anymore. I'm thinking it's probably a loose connection so rode an additional 20 miles and went home. I looked for your videos try to find speedometer/odometer issues and how to change cable but don't see any. After further digging into this I find I may have more serious issues way beyond my abilities to deal with. Guess maybe something happened with pully wheel or bearing (?) and simply having those greased correctly may have avoided this. Looking underneath quickly I noticed a lot of solid ice built up everywhere. I never clean my track after riding, just park it and cover it. I'm not very strong so can't get it up to spin track. Think I learned a hard lesson. Did that contribute to my problem? 😕 Hope I didn't ruin drive shaft and so on because I continued to ride. I saw suggestions to check cable by detaching from cowl end looking to see if cable still turns otherwise you know it's broke on other end and need to take belts off, clutch, etc. (Whew. Long story there for you. 😊) You should make a video about this. If you did, please tell me where it is. I'll end up taking it to my local shop 4 miles away IF they have any time this year to get at it. I'm hoping I can drive it there without making it worse. I guess the wire inside is probably getting all twisted up. Ugh. Any thought you have would be appreciated. You might be able to help someone avoid my woes. Thanks for all your videos! 👍
Hi Tess, yes I remember you. There are bearings on both sides of the drive axle that could be your problem. One lubricated by chain Case oil, one greased at the same point i referenced on my rev, behind the secondary. But just a squeal isn’t enough to know for sure. Clutches can stick on belts, you could have something stuck underneath. Put the back end up on a stand, take the belt off and turn the track by hand. Get underneath with a flashlight. If a clutch gets stuck it can wear a spot on a belt that will make a clunk…if the bearing on the left side came apart it would take your speedometer out. Sorry that happened to you :(
I pull the rubber dust covers off of my bogey wheels and pump that cavity full of grease an reinstall the rubber caps. I do this like once a year. some of the grease makes it past the bearing seal and keeps the bearing lubed. Be prepared to loose a rubber dust cover now and then, they fall off on their own even if you do not grease them. I also grease the lower ball joints. I have a needle with a zerk that attaches to the grease gun hose (you can buy them very common). You can work the needle under the seal from the bottom or pierce the boot and pump it full of grease. I also spray like chain lube on the ski pivot but I do not think it does much.
There is a fitting behind the secondary clutch for the bearing for the drive cog on your 670.... it's hard to see and get at but it's there.... you should update the video to tell people about it.... I found it when I changed my track. I told a few friends and fellow snowmobilers about it and none of them knew about it.... just a thought
Sorry I just realized what you meant. Yeah I guess I did say on the Rev...all sleds are going to have different fittings so my intent wasn't to show where they all are but point taken. Thanks for mentioning it. It is hard to see and there is a bracket in front of it so it was easier to show on the Rev.
Hi GW. White lithium grease is a good lubricant for a wide range of metal on metal applications like much of the suspension, and it’s water resistant. It also stays in place without drying out better than other grease. It’s one weakness is that it speeds deterioration of plastic and rubber parts. Thanks for commenting.
Depends on the composition of the part. Some of the nitrile rubbers for example, aren’t affected, but other types of vulcanized rubbers that are affected by petroleum based products, are. They can become brittle, crack or wear prematurely. A lot of times its fine, but I generally avoid using it on plastics and rubber. Thanks again for watching/commenting.
Do you have a drive belt you can swap? Has the sled been stuck, or refused to move when you give it throttle? Some times when that happens you wear the belt in one spot and you get that low speed clunk.
@@MyOldSled It's not Supply and Demand, It's Inflation caused by Printing money from thin air. Since 1913 The Unconstitutional Federal Reserve has been printing money from thin air. Just like Bit Coin. The Federal Reserve is a small number of Banksters.. they print money from thin air and lend it to the Government and Banks and charge Interest.. The Biden Regime has Borrowed Trillions from the Federal Reserve and spent it on Social Programs and Laundered Billions through Ukraine. Fidel Castro JR has made things even worse in Canada .
Also, i saw a post from you about skidoo grease? I don’t see it now. I use xps as well. The problem I have with comparison is there is no technical info on the package and Ive been trying for a week to find out the temperature rating. Zip…
@@MyOldSled Skidoo calls it cold temp grease.. the difference between my really heavy grease for pins and bushings on front end loaders ect.. Is that it does not have a high temperature rating for wheel bearings like the much thinner grease has Basically #1 thin #2 normal #3 very thick .. #0 grease will pour like a liquid and I have used it in steering gears that leaked 90 wt gear oil out too fast.. Grease is also referred to as Soap .. All the soap does is hold the oil in place.. It's the oil in the grease that Lubricates.. also molly and Graphite both work when the oil has been lost .. I was just looking at Two Stroke Oils .. I use Klotz and it is TCW-3 rated .. I have heard that's the highest rating. Skidoo Oil Ams Oil and Lucas oil don't claim that rating .. I just round Lucas Oil at Summet Racing for like $33.00 per gallon in 4 packs.. Klotz is now like $53.00 per gallon .. I paid $29.00 per gallon plus $12.00 shipping for 4 gallons in December 2015.
Hi Mike. I finally figured out what the other fitting on my grease gun was for when I was doing research for this video! Filling it without a cartridge. I didn't talk to the company about it, but they sell empty lube shuttle cartridges. $23 for a ten pack. I'm sorry I don't do a lot of greasing like you obviously do so I'm not sure of the value of buying them.
@@MyOldSled I have two 120# Kegs one with a heavy thick grease for pins and bushings.. and one for High Temp like U-joints and wheel bearings.. I have like 8 grease guns. On one type of grease I use a long skinny fill fitting "Lincolon" and a short thick one "Alemite." Thus I can't mix greases or put the wrong grease in the wrong gun. Plus I have an air powered greaser that used a 120# Keg of grease on wheels with a 30 foot lead hose..
@@MyOldSled I also have a min grease gun with mini cartridges that came from a boat dealer Inventory .. I bought a storage trailer from his Estate.. Boat Grease won't be low temp but it will be water resistant.. He also was a Lawn Boy Dealer it may have been sold to service Lawn Mowers.. I have never used it .. Of course I have a refillable needle gun for my chain saw sprocket tips
I just got an old ski doo tundra 2 I've been trying to learn about basic maintenance for this season. This was the only video that gave me the full process. Thanks for the great video.
Make sure you grease the drive shaft behind the secondary
Another top notch video from Dave.
Thank you very much.
Solid vid man, i like the priming tips. I’ve always wrestled with my grease gun and known I have a clearer answer why haha. Subscribed!
Hey Nombr. welcome to the channel, Thanks for watching.
Dave gald you talked about this , because it's happened to me and lost prime.....another great video as always....where is the snow!!! I got a trip planned in cochrane 2nd week of February. This is my first year buying a sled!! Your videos have helped tremendously with working on my seld over last 4 months....maybe one day we'll run into each other riding, be awesome!
Hey T, thanks for taking the time to comment. Yeah it's a simple problem once you know what it is. I'm trying to stay hopeful about the snow. I hope you get some riding in. Congrats on the new sled.
As always another informative video about sleds. With this knowledge owners can certainly get longer service and better understanding of how they work. Thx
Thanks for watching Farmark.
Can’t believe you don’t have much snow we have over 5 feet in northern Minnesota
Just getting some winter now.
Good information Dave, I'll definitely take a look at Lube-Shuttle. A little on the pricey side, but I like the no mess feature. I keep doing the snow dance, but no snow in Northwest Ohio since the end of December, and nothing in sight.😪
Definitely for standard grease jobs, where the less expensive grease is more than sufficient, it’s worth the extra cost. As i mentioned, if people are really married to a specific snowmobile product, then they may hang on to both types. Hope you get some snow! What shop projects are you working on these days?
@@MyOldSled Just tweaking my Dragon, adding a few things, and finished up the 84 SS. Built a few things, will have some videos on those projects. Take care Dave
The best grease gun is the Milwaukee electric gear gun, that thing is awesome
Do you mean the 18v cordless one? I search for “gear gun” didn’t see anything. I haven’t used it. What do you think gives it the edge?
A few tips for greasing a sled, dealing with some common issues with grease guns, and a look at a totally different type of gun from Lube -Shuttle . *NOTE: The grease fitting for the drive axle referenced is common to other sleds as well. Thanks Hugh Stratton for commenting.*
Stay positive Dave, I hear southern Ontario may get a whack of snow this weekend. Great video 👍
Always positive Valhalla. :)
Thanks David for the very informative video. Love the new garage, I must have missed some videos, better check my settings. Going to consider the grease gun for sure and definitely need to add a Lube or 2 during the season. Thanks. Also just looking at website, building my own gun, which grease option is the low temp in the synthetic, i can only see the basic description but doesn’t talk about temps.
Thanks for watching. Let me know if you’re not getting notifications ive heard that a few times now.
Great video Dave
Thanks Kawi!
i love your videos. never knew that type of grease gun existed
Thanks D.R. They’re actually not new, they are just new in North America
Another great video Dave.
Thanks, and think snow. We have no trails open in NH
Thanks Robert. Glad you liked it. It is snowing right now, not much but it's a good sign.
@@MyOldSled it is actually raining here in west central NH and temps are rising. My 4 sleds went back into storage yesterday.
I only grease once per season, we don't get enough snow to put on enough miles to justify greasing more than once. I use Mobil1 synthetic. I bought a LockNLube coupler for my grease gun a few years ago. I highly recommend, worth every penning.
My snowmobile is sometimes bogging. Do I need to adjust the air screw on the carburetter or what should I do?
Hard to diagnose a problem via chat. What kind of sled. Did you do anything to it before it started? Bogging when? When you give it gas? When did you clean the carbs last? Lots of things can make a sled bog.
It’s a 1996 ski doo 500 sls I clean carb last year. I prime it 3 times and it starts very easy to start. It bogging when I’m in deep snow or warm weather.
Where did you set the air screw? The air screw adjusts how lean or rich the mixture is at idle, so if it's not turned out enough, then it will run a bit rich at idle and that could, especially in warm weather or at low running speeds, cause it to foul plugs and make it bog when you squeeze the throttle. I find with my 670, it was set a bit on the rich side and this would happen to me if I rode it slow or in warm weather. Pull the plugs and clean them off or replace them and its fine as long as I'm not too light on the throttle. Pull the plugs, are they wet? So I think the air screw on your sled should be 1.75, but you should find out for sure. A lot of guys either turn them out a turn and a half, or do whatever it was set at, which really isn't the right approach. Best to find out the factory settings. I THINK its 1.75 but don't trust me, make sure. I don't have that info handy for your sled and lean is worse than rich as it runs hot and causes damage.
Thank you helping me
I didnt do much, but you’re welcome. Let me know how you make out.
Great video. Very informative.
Thanks WGN, Glad you enjoyed it.
Awesome I need that in Florida and nice and clean
Hi Dave. You might remember me from previous discussions. I have a 1997 Ski-Doo Grand Touring 583. Rode 12 miles yesterday and then heard some minor squealing sounds. Thought maybe I could smell something but you know how your mind can race and assume you smell something. 😊 So I went a little further to see if it would go away thinking maybe something was just stuck and would work it's way out. It almost went away but I stopped when it occurred to me it may be my belt coming off. It wasn't that and the sound was gone while running with cowl up moving it. A Police Officer happened to be stopped there so he helped me check that. He couldn't find anything wrong as it sat. I decided to continue on. No more squealing but then it felt wobbly, like riding a bike with loose tire. That eventually went away so I thought all was good. After riding about 10 miles I noticed my speedometer wasn't working anymore. I'm thinking it's probably a loose connection so rode an additional 20 miles and went home. I looked for your videos try to find speedometer/odometer issues and how to change cable but don't see any. After further digging into this I find I may have more serious issues way beyond my abilities to deal with. Guess maybe something happened with pully wheel or bearing (?) and simply having those greased correctly may have avoided this. Looking underneath quickly I noticed a lot of solid ice built up everywhere. I never clean my track after riding, just park it and cover it. I'm not very strong so can't get it up to spin track. Think I learned a hard lesson. Did that contribute to my problem? 😕 Hope I didn't ruin drive shaft and so on because I continued to ride. I saw suggestions to check cable by detaching from cowl end looking to see if cable still turns otherwise you know it's broke on other end and need to take belts off, clutch, etc. (Whew. Long story there for you. 😊) You should make a video about this. If you did, please tell me where it is. I'll end up taking it to my local shop 4 miles away IF they have any time this year to get at it. I'm hoping I can drive it there without making it worse. I guess the wire inside is probably getting all twisted up. Ugh. Any thought you have would be appreciated. You might be able to help someone avoid my woes. Thanks for all your videos! 👍
Hi Tess, yes I remember you. There are bearings on both sides of the drive axle that could be your problem. One lubricated by chain Case oil, one greased at the same point i referenced on my rev, behind the secondary. But just a squeal isn’t enough to know for sure. Clutches can stick on belts, you could have something stuck underneath. Put the back end up on a stand, take the belt off and turn the track by hand. Get underneath with a flashlight. If a clutch gets stuck it can wear a spot on a belt that will make a clunk…if the bearing on the left side came apart it would take your speedometer out. Sorry that happened to you :(
Msg me on facebook if you want to discuss further.
I pull the rubber dust covers off of my bogey wheels and pump that cavity full of grease an reinstall the rubber caps. I do this like once a year. some of the grease makes it past the bearing seal and keeps the bearing lubed. Be prepared to loose a rubber dust cover now and then, they fall off on their own even if you do not grease them.
I also grease the lower ball joints. I have a needle with a zerk that attaches to the grease gun hose (you can buy them very common). You can work the needle under the seal from the bottom or pierce the boot and pump it full of grease.
I also spray like chain lube on the ski pivot but I do not think it does much.
There is a fitting behind the secondary clutch for the bearing for the drive cog on your 670.... it's hard to see and get at but it's there.... you should update the video to tell people about it.... I found it when I changed my track. I told a few friends and fellow snowmobilers about it and none of them knew about it.... just a thought
Sorry I just realized what you meant. Yeah I guess I did say on the Rev...all sleds are going to have different fittings so my intent wasn't to show where they all are but point taken. Thanks for mentioning it. It is hard to see and there is a bracket in front of it so it was easier to show on the Rev.
Thanks for the info 👍
Thanks for watching!
I have used low temp white lithium grease for years on all my sleds. Never had any wear issues.
Hi GW. White lithium grease is a good lubricant for a wide range of metal on metal applications like much of the suspension, and it’s water resistant. It also stays in place without drying out better than other grease. It’s one weakness is that it speeds deterioration of plastic and rubber parts. Thanks for commenting.
@@MyOldSled Interesting. I haven't noticed any deterioration on anything and I have been using it for over 20 years.
Depends on the composition of the part. Some of the nitrile rubbers for example, aren’t affected, but other types of vulcanized rubbers that are affected by petroleum based products, are. They can become brittle, crack or wear prematurely. A lot of times its fine, but I generally avoid using it on plastics and rubber. Thanks again for watching/commenting.
Sounds like a dumb question here, but whats your thoughts on greasing on a sled thats a couple years old but very low miles (
Won’t hurt :) The grease will dry out.
Thank you for this I forgot to grease mine.
Hello, I have the same sled as you and when I turn or go 5-10mph it makes a clumping noise. Would you happen to know what that would be?
Do you have a drive belt you can swap? Has the sled been stuck, or refused to move when you give it throttle? Some times when that happens you wear the belt in one spot and you get that low speed clunk.
Grease used to be about $2.00 per cartridge ..
Ugh the cost of everything has gone up so much. "supply and demand" ...from the latin, for "greed"
@@MyOldSled It's not Supply and Demand, It's Inflation caused by Printing money from thin air. Since 1913 The Unconstitutional Federal Reserve has been printing money from thin air. Just like Bit Coin. The Federal Reserve is a small number of Banksters.. they print money from thin air and lend it to the Government and Banks and charge Interest..
The Biden Regime has Borrowed Trillions from the Federal Reserve and spent it on Social Programs and Laundered Billions through Ukraine.
Fidel Castro JR has made things even worse in Canada .
I was kidding… it’s not Latin
Also, i saw a post from you about skidoo grease? I don’t see it now. I use xps as well. The problem I have with comparison is there is no technical info on the package and Ive been trying for a week to find out the temperature rating. Zip…
@@MyOldSled Skidoo calls it cold temp grease.. the difference between my really heavy grease for pins and bushings on front end loaders ect.. Is that it does not have a high temperature rating for wheel bearings like the much thinner grease has Basically #1 thin #2 normal #3 very thick .. #0 grease will pour like a liquid and I have used it in steering gears that leaked 90 wt gear oil out too fast..
Grease is also referred to as Soap .. All the soap does is hold the oil in place.. It's the oil in the grease that Lubricates.. also molly and Graphite both work when the oil has been lost ..
I was just looking at Two Stroke Oils .. I use Klotz and it is TCW-3 rated .. I have heard that's the highest rating.
Skidoo Oil Ams Oil and Lucas oil don't claim that rating .. I just round Lucas Oil at Summet Racing for like $33.00 per gallon in 4 packs.. Klotz is now like $53.00 per gallon .. I paid $29.00 per gallon plus $12.00 shipping for 4 gallons in December 2015.
I refill my Grease Guns from a 120# Keg of Grease 16 gallons ..
Hi Mike. I finally figured out what the other fitting on my grease gun was for when I was doing research for this video! Filling it without a cartridge. I didn't talk to the company about it, but they sell empty lube shuttle cartridges. $23 for a ten pack. I'm sorry I don't do a lot of greasing like you obviously do so I'm not sure of the value of buying them.
@@MyOldSled I have two 120# Kegs one with a heavy thick grease for pins and bushings.. and one for High Temp like U-joints and wheel bearings.. I have like 8 grease guns.
On one type of grease I use a long skinny fill fitting "Lincolon" and a short thick one "Alemite." Thus I can't mix greases or put the wrong grease in the wrong gun.
Plus I have an air powered greaser that used a 120# Keg of grease on wheels with a 30 foot lead hose..
@@MyOldSled Oh $23.00 for 10 not $23.00 for one ?
23 cdn for a 10 pack
@@MyOldSled I also have a min grease gun with mini cartridges that came from a boat dealer Inventory .. I bought a storage trailer from his Estate.. Boat Grease won't be low temp but it will be water resistant.. He also was a Lawn Boy Dealer it may have been sold to service Lawn Mowers.. I have never used it ..
Of course I have a refillable needle gun for my chain saw sprocket tips