Nice set up and a great video for the first one in a long time. Could this set up have been done and would it work as well with just a single actuating cylinder in the center?
As someone getting into the hobby, and considering air brakes on rolling stock, this was very interesting, so thank you! Also, would the cylinders work on steam as well? Just curious.
These cylinders are not steam compatible, they will likely corrode on the inside. There also needs to be a bleed hole for water condensate to make its way out. Steam brakes are fun but they don't work very well compared to air. It takes a long time for them to set and release and they can get hung up fairly easily. But if you want to set up steam brakes on a locomotive as an independent you can.
I want something like this for my 1/8th scale 7.5 inch train. Do you have any suggestions to help me start this as I am new to the live steam community? I want to have automatic brakes where when I lower my train line the brakes apply.
The castings for the brakes shown here are no longer available, but they can be fabricated. A simpler and more robust set of brake shoes and cylinders can be had from Tom Bee. You could make automated triple-valve brakes but it's much more complicated than straight air, with many more lines and a resovoir on each car, etc.. I would advise against it, unless you really like the prototypical functioning of it for its own sake.
@@MasseeMedia What about spring loaded? The air acts against the springs until the pressure drops. I do have the rest of the air system designed but the brakes are the hardest part.
@@RyanHatterer-Ryanns999 They would have to be some awfully big and stiff springs pressing on the wheels pretty hard at rest to get the kind of pressure you can get from an air cylinder. A double-acting cylinder with application pressure on one end and release pressure on another would probably be the way to go. Two lines running down the train, the application line being in line with a resovoir on each car. Then you can set the application pressure depending on the steepness of the railroad and the weight of the cars. With riders you can have a lot more pressure before the wheels lock up, running light you want want that pressure lower.
@@MasseeMedia Okay, I am running only 15 to 25 psi, and didn't think it was be a big deal. I have it setup in the engine the compressor runs 125 psi to the tanks then regulator and valve to max of 25 psi to the train.
buy cylinders that retract by springs instead of extend, then use the air to disengage/release the brakes, it be the same principle as semi trucks, for your automatic engaging brakes.....
Could you use steam instead of compressed air? Maybe need copper pipe but if sufficient pipe run the steam might be cold enough by the time it gets to the cylinder.
Sorry for the late reply, yes you can use steam for brakes with all non-corrosive metals. The main thing with steam is that it applies and bleeds off more slowly, so you need to take that into account. Also, you need a drain valve at the lowest point to drain off the water that condenses in the lines. Steam brakes are fun because they have a particular look and sound, with a release of steam when you release the brakes.
How much clearance between the cylinder and the bottom of the bolster? Is it enough to allow for for the springs to bottom out under heavy load without interference?
![Brakeman 101: How do you make sure a train will stop?!? [Terminal Airbrake Test]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/chjupYPVHZ8/mqdefault.jpg)
A very simplified system Mike.
Nice set up and a great video for the first one in a long time. Could this set up have been done and would it work as well with just a single actuating cylinder in the center?
+ByrdMann2010 Yes you could do that as well. Might make getting at a kingpin in the middle of the truck harder, otherwise no problem.
As someone getting into the hobby, and considering air brakes on rolling stock, this was very interesting, so thank you! Also, would the cylinders work on steam as well? Just curious.
These cylinders are not steam compatible, they will likely corrode on the inside. There also needs to be a bleed hole for water condensate to make its way out. Steam brakes are fun but they don't work very well compared to air. It takes a long time for them to set and release and they can get hung up fairly easily. But if you want to set up steam brakes on a locomotive as an independent you can.
@@MasseeMedia Ok. I just thought I'd ask, I'm a curious person. Thank you!
For curiosity, what size are the pistons you've got on that setup?
I want something like this for my 1/8th scale 7.5 inch train. Do you have any suggestions to help me start this as I am new to the live steam community? I want to have automatic brakes where when I lower my train line the brakes apply.
The castings for the brakes shown here are no longer available, but they can be fabricated. A simpler and more robust set of brake shoes and cylinders can be had from Tom Bee. You could make automated triple-valve brakes but it's much more complicated than straight air, with many more lines and a resovoir on each car, etc.. I would advise against it, unless you really like the prototypical functioning of it for its own sake.
@@MasseeMedia What about spring loaded? The air acts against the springs until the pressure drops. I do have the rest of the air system designed but the brakes are the hardest part.
@@RyanHatterer-Ryanns999 They would have to be some awfully big and stiff springs pressing on the wheels pretty hard at rest to get the kind of pressure you can get from an air cylinder. A double-acting cylinder with application pressure on one end and release pressure on another would probably be the way to go. Two lines running down the train, the application line being in line with a resovoir on each car. Then you can set the application pressure depending on the steepness of the railroad and the weight of the cars. With riders you can have a lot more pressure before the wheels lock up, running light you want want that pressure lower.
@@MasseeMedia Okay, I am running only 15 to 25 psi, and didn't think it was be a big deal. I have it setup in the engine the compressor runs 125 psi to the tanks then regulator and valve to max of 25 psi to the train.
buy cylinders that retract by springs instead of extend, then use the air to disengage/release the brakes, it be the same principle as semi trucks, for your automatic engaging brakes.....
Could you use steam instead of compressed air? Maybe need copper pipe but if sufficient pipe run the steam might be cold enough by the time it gets to the cylinder.
Sorry for the late reply, yes you can use steam for brakes with all non-corrosive metals. The main thing with steam is that it applies and bleeds off more slowly, so you need to take that into account. Also, you need a drain valve at the lowest point to drain off the water that condenses in the lines. Steam brakes are fun because they have a particular look and sound, with a release of steam when you release the brakes.
Hi Mike! Can you provide an exact Clippard model number for your cylinders? Wonderful application!
How much clearance between the cylinder and the bottom of the bolster? Is it enough to allow for for the springs to bottom out under heavy load without interference?
I would buy those especially if I'm going to have a long train.
make a mini steam engine