The Workshop That's what I thought. Now THAT'S funny! Poor Isaac, don't give a complex worse than he has growing up today. Coddled bastards, I guess the bully's I fought off as a kid in the eighties taught me to never back down. Before bullyism was a thing. Working with kids his age is tricky, they don't like getting hands dirty. Getting mine dirty for decades has ruined them. Gloves suck but I think it is the only way. Protect yours.
The way I was taught is that you fill the reservoir, crack the nipple with a line and container to catch all the fluid, and pump the lever until you hit the minimum mark, top of the reservoir, and do it again until you get clean fluid coming out the caliper end. And then you lock the nipple, pump the lever a few times and hold it down, then crack the nipple and lock it off. Repeat until no air is coming out the nipple, check your fluid level compared to brake pad wear, correct if necessary, and then you're good. A spray bottle with soapy water to spray on any spills and covering the area to prevent brake fluid damage.
Them little bleed kits you get at Halfords work pretty good . They have a one way valve so you can leave the bleed screw open and pump away , just keep a close eye on the fluid level
I used to hate bleeding nipples until I did 2 things. Use the ring end of the spanner so it stays on and pressure the system overnight, elastic band on the front lever and a weight of the rear, as the reservoir is the highest point and the constant pressure holds the valve open or some shit. Works for me. Or you could just fuck around taking the whole system off and hang it off the misses nipples overnight like other channels advise.
My first tour on the 650R, I'd adjusted the rear brake lever, but assumed they use a pressure switch or something. For about 50 miles my brake light stayed on and I was nonethewiser... Thankfully a simple adjustment at a layby, but still - RTFM and all 😂
Hi Matt, not sure if I'm mixing up your videos but didn't you fit a bleed nipple with a non-return valve in it to avoid the open, push down, close, lift off (repeat and repeat and repeat)?
Decided to use this on the ER5 instead because I need the SV up and running for the Evans test and can't be pissing around if the fucker leaks. Wil be doing the video though, just not on the SV.
Can you give tips on how to bleed dual disc/caliper brakes easier? I can bleed them forever and there's still air inside. On my bike it's two brake hoses coming from calipers connecting into one halfway to the master cylinder, I think the part where they merge is where most of the air gets trapped. I saw someone recommending to use a big syringe and fill the lines from the bottom up through the bleed nipple, does that make sense?
Eh matt have u ever seen or did a reverse bleed with a syringe starting at the calliper and pushing fluid thru the system? What do u think about this process. One minute I'll find u a link, never mind the link I'm in the app and don't know how, lol I'm sure u know what I'm talking about I can find it on here ez enough with a search, what do ya think?
Don't like it - there's a slight chance (tiny but still a chance) you can mess up the seals in the master cylinder. Depending on the system. It doesn't take that long as you can see in this video, and remember this is a completely dry system.
Not when its a dry system like this is. Most of the system is air in this case. I'll be doing both replacing fluid with new and a full bleeding video on the front brakes and the clutch - I just need to get this done, I was running out of time.
OMJ! I don't do that this way! I pump till the pressure is up then I hold it down and open it till the pressure is gone and close it before I release the pedal/lever again. And do that again and again. But I have also a vacuum brake bleeder pump... 15,- and that works great.
Am I cutting corners??? It is hard to bleed a car brake system by your self and the vacuum pump helps to bleed ABS brake systems because they don't let you bleed the system that easy some times and you have a hard time to get all the air out without the vacuum pump. It is just the way I have learned it long time ago.
Oh, not only cars have ABS I didn't wanted to piss you off with the word "car" My K1200 BMW has ABS and I got the pump because it sucks and is only great when it works.
Russ Denyer dot 5 is silicone, dot 5.1 is not. HD used it for 2 years from 2005, it's dyed purple then after 3 months of use turns a Drambuie and Jonnie Walker Black label colour. It doesn't absorb moisture but does absorb air ...hence not recommended with abs... it usefully does give the Harley's brakes some feel opposed to dot 4 in later bikes. I did mix some with dot 4 in a Kilner jar for jollies, two things happened in 24 hours ...it seperated with a very clearly defined line, dot 5 on the bottom, and the dot 4 sucked the purple dye out leaving the dot 5 completely clear. I believe dot 5 can stay in the system much longer than dot anything else but I like to change brake fluid regularly. Old habits etc..
Biscuit Barrel Mm, Drambuie. That’s fantastic info. Harley Davidsons will never replace the motorbike. You sound as silly as me. I’m doing tests on Avgas at the moment, with some disturbing results. What great channel this is. Many thanks.
The Workshop I have always heard dot 4 or 5 was strictly for heavy duty brakes where there's huge loads expected, dump trucks and the like. Would you care to shed light on the differences and why we use different brake fluids?
love your video's but this is actually not the best way of bleeding a brake line. this way most people would get air sucked back in through the nipple while releasing the pedal. the best way is to use a cheap pneumatic pump connected to the nipple , that way the job is finished professionally in 20 seconds . another way if you don't have the pump and an air compressor is to inject with a syringe from the bleeding nipple while disposing the old fluid that goes up the reservoir , which is what recommended by some manufacturers.
Not so bad video. But the lisence plates there look like fooking billboards!. Got to be costing at least 18 knots at speed. I guess in the UK no way around that. At least you can legally drive a tank on the road there. Not here in America. Not even a tracked troop delivering device. Nice job bleeding the brake. The seal on that reservoir sucks. I have replaced it about 5 times. It seems to be made of the wrong shit. The back break on that machine is not much anyway. I don't trust that its there and really it is not necessary that it be there. I love my SV anyway. She is my sweet bike. Pimples and all. My old Kawi 750turbo has no pimples except she got slept with everyone around. Nobody got it but she is fun as hell. Expensive to maintain but worth it. Faster than a Ferrari but Kawasaki effort. Turbos burn up. Got a line on a new Hitachi H2 10 B. Turbo?
It's a number plate displaying a Vehicle Registration Mark (VRM) which is attached to the vehicle for its life unless a new one is a applied for which must also comply, so you can't have anything. Plus, you can read them clearly. US ones I find hard to read. Maybe I am not used to them.
Forever Computing Looks like a damn speed brake I used to install on aircraft but with no way possible to retract! If I had to display a plate like that i would have left the ugly ducktail rear fender on my 03 SV. Hardly noticeable with the billboard sized plate!
Isaac wasn't too bad, steady as a rock. Couldn't see shit but no shake whatsoever!
LOL it was on the tripod
The Workshop
That's what I thought. Now THAT'S funny! Poor Isaac, don't give a complex worse than he has growing up today. Coddled bastards, I guess the bully's I fought off as a kid in the eighties taught me to never back down. Before bullyism was a thing. Working with kids his age is tricky, they don't like getting hands dirty. Getting mine dirty for decades has ruined them. Gloves suck but I think it is the only way. Protect yours.
Looking forward to the sperate video. I want to know what "sperate" is...
The way I was taught is that you fill the reservoir, crack the nipple with a line and container to catch all the fluid, and pump the lever until you hit the minimum mark, top of the reservoir, and do it again until you get clean fluid coming out the caliper end. And then you lock the nipple, pump the lever a few times and hold it down, then crack the nipple and lock it off. Repeat until no air is coming out the nipple, check your fluid level compared to brake pad wear, correct if necessary, and then you're good.
A spray bottle with soapy water to spray on any spills and covering the area to prevent brake fluid damage.
Them little bleed kits you get at Halfords work pretty good .
They have a one way valve so you can leave the bleed screw open and pump away , just keep a close eye on the fluid level
Isaac is only as good as you taught him. :)
I used to hate bleeding nipples until I did 2 things. Use the ring end of the spanner so it stays on and pressure the system overnight, elastic band on the front lever and a weight of the rear, as the reservoir is the highest point and the constant pressure holds the valve open or some shit. Works for me. Or you could just fuck around taking the whole system off and hang it off the misses nipples overnight like other channels advise.
My first tour on the 650R, I'd adjusted the rear brake lever, but assumed they use a pressure switch or something.
For about 50 miles my brake light stayed on and I was nonethewiser... Thankfully a simple adjustment at a layby, but still - RTFM and all 😂
Aha! Now something is working off on pressure, or is it heat matt? Whitch one is it?
It's very therapeutic!
That's not how Big Dave Moss does it !!!
I saw this a long time ago but had to check you weren't telling fibs.
Did you still have the Eezibleed nipple installed in calliper? If so it should do away with the locking off the bleed nipple between presses.
No didn't fit it and that's for the ER5 not the SV
It is featured in SV rear calliper re-build, not ER5 when did this happen? FFS don't say I've missed a vid, Shock Horror;-)
Hi Matt, not sure if I'm mixing up your videos but didn't you fit a bleed nipple with a non-return valve in it to avoid the open, push down, close, lift off (repeat and repeat and repeat)?
Decided to use this on the ER5 instead because I need the SV up and running for the Evans test and can't be pissing around if the fucker leaks.
Wil be doing the video though, just not on the SV.
Can you give tips on how to bleed dual disc/caliper brakes easier? I can bleed them forever and there's still air inside. On my bike it's two brake hoses coming from calipers connecting into one halfway to the master cylinder, I think the part where they merge is where most of the air gets trapped. I saw someone recommending to use a big syringe and fill the lines from the bottom up through the bleed nipple, does that make sense?
We'll get to this when I do the fronts.
Hmm... Open the bleed screw first or preload the master cylinder?
Fuck I hate bleeding brakes. I've never gotten it right.
What happened to the easy bleed nipples? Did they get binned off?
Gigli d'agostino haven't heard his music in a long time.
Matt, enjoying the brake videos. Do you know the reason behind the FZS1000 rear caliper having two bleed nipples?
Eh matt have u ever seen or did a reverse bleed with a syringe starting at the calliper and pushing fluid thru the system? What do u think about this process. One minute I'll find u a link, never mind the link I'm in the app and don't know how, lol I'm sure u know what I'm talking about I can find it on here ez enough with a search, what do ya think?
Don't like it - there's a slight chance (tiny but still a chance) you can mess up the seals in the master cylinder. Depending on the system. It doesn't take that long as you can see in this video, and remember this is a completely dry system.
Is it beneficial to give the lever a few pumps to build pressure before opening the bleed nipple? That's how i was taught
Not when its a dry system like this is. Most of the system is air in this case. I'll be doing both replacing fluid with new and a full bleeding video on the front brakes and the clutch - I just need to get this done, I was running out of time.
I see, so you'd give it a few pumps if you were trying to sort spongey brakes or something? Cheers
Yes and the follow-up video we'll go through this.
OMJ! I don't do that this way! I pump till the pressure is up then I hold it down and open it till the pressure is gone and close it before I release the pedal/lever again. And do that again and again. But I have also a vacuum brake bleeder pump... 15,- and that works great.
Why are you guys always cutting corners? Its not that fucking hard.
Am I cutting corners??? It is hard to bleed a car brake system by your self and the vacuum pump helps to bleed ABS brake systems because they don't let you bleed the system that easy some times and you have a hard time to get all the air out without the vacuum pump. It is just the way I have learned it long time ago.
Oh, not only cars have ABS I didn't wanted to piss you off with the word "car" My K1200 BMW has ABS and I got the pump because it sucks and is only great when it works.
Did you not put the easy bleeds on there you knob lol
Can you show us how to bleed brakes on a bike with ABS :)
Why open bleed before bulding pressure?
Were you having an episode of OCD?
Why don’t we all just use silicone brake fluid?
Is it just the cost?
Can't use silicone for ABS systems. DOT 3/4 is cheap I assume
Forever Computing
Ah. My bikes are all too old to have abs.
Motul does a DOT 4 which exceeds the rating of DOT5 for heat absorption. I think 5.1 is silicone, DOT5 is not.
Russ Denyer dot 5 is silicone, dot 5.1 is not. HD used it for 2 years from 2005, it's dyed purple then after 3 months of use turns a Drambuie and Jonnie Walker Black label colour. It doesn't absorb moisture but does absorb air ...hence not recommended with abs... it usefully does give the Harley's brakes some feel opposed to dot 4 in later bikes.
I did mix some with dot 4 in a Kilner jar for jollies, two things happened in 24 hours ...it seperated with a very clearly defined line, dot 5 on the bottom, and the dot 4 sucked the purple dye out leaving the dot 5 completely clear. I believe dot 5 can stay in the system much longer than dot anything else but I like to change brake fluid regularly. Old habits etc..
Biscuit Barrel
Mm, Drambuie.
That’s fantastic info.
Harley Davidsons will never replace the motorbike.
You sound as silly as me. I’m doing tests on Avgas at the moment, with some disturbing results.
What great channel this is.
Many thanks.
Does this bike call for dot 4 in the manual?
yes - why do you ask?
The Workshop I have always heard dot 4 or 5 was strictly for heavy duty brakes where there's huge loads expected, dump trucks and the like. Would you care to shed light on the differences and why we use different brake fluids?
i heard dot 4 was just standard stuff, i mean, my old moped used DOT 4 as well.
Those fully faired SVs are gorgeous mate
jakemuntja nice ass with the tail tidy too
Syringe from the caliper end is the only way.
love your video's but this is actually not the best way of bleeding a brake line. this way most people would get air sucked back in through the nipple while releasing the pedal.
the best way is to use a cheap pneumatic pump connected to the nipple , that way the job is finished professionally in 20 seconds . another way if you don't have the pump and an air compressor is to inject with a syringe from the bleeding nipple while disposing the old fluid that goes up the reservoir , which is what recommended by some manufacturers.
"which is what recommended by some manufacturers."
- which ones? I wanna see this.
Isaac! Camera zoom FUCK SAKE!
It sounded like the brake pedal was bottoming out.
It would do. It's pushing a lot of fluid to the caliper. It hasn't met resistance yet.
A sperate video?
I think they could just be covered tgether
Not first but not last
Not so bad video. But the lisence plates there look like fooking billboards!. Got to be costing at least 18 knots at speed. I guess in the UK no way around that. At least you can legally drive a tank on the road there. Not here in America. Not even a tracked troop delivering device. Nice job bleeding the brake. The seal on that reservoir sucks. I have replaced it about 5 times. It seems to be made of the wrong shit. The back break on that machine is not much anyway. I don't trust that its there and really it is not necessary that it be there. I love my SV anyway. She is my sweet bike. Pimples and all. My old Kawi 750turbo has no pimples except she got slept with everyone around. Nobody got it but she is fun as hell. Expensive to maintain but worth it. Faster than a Ferrari but Kawasaki effort. Turbos burn up. Got a line on a new Hitachi H2 10 B. Turbo?
It's a number plate displaying a Vehicle Registration Mark (VRM) which is attached to the vehicle for its life unless a new one is a applied for which must also comply, so you can't have anything.
Plus, you can read them clearly. US ones I find hard to read. Maybe I am not used to them.
Forever Computing
Looks like a damn speed brake I used to install on aircraft but with no way possible to retract! If I had to display a plate like that i would have left the ugly ducktail rear fender on my 03 SV. Hardly noticeable with the billboard sized plate!
Matt do yourself a favour and, Chuck that crap bottle in the fucking bin. Hahaha
Thanks.
crap bottle?
@@dirtygarageguy eye ya brake bleeding bottle that never stays on the bleed nipple.
You cut the end and then hit it with a lighter to harden the plastic a bit -
i hope you are not payingg him for the camera work. cause you need a refund.
first?
6rd
1st