Making my FIRST Billet Engine plate from raw Aluminum! Dahm Racing Engines incoming??
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
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As an experienced machinest, i can attest to the nightmare of learning how to set up everything correctly for rigid tapping. My first time was absolutely brutal, but you learn what needs to be done after a while.
Here are crucial tips.
The biggest thing you NEED to watch out for when tapping a blind hole is tap selection. Never use a spiral point, or even a straight tap when doing this. And if you do use them, make sure to drill almost half an inch deeper so the chips dont build up and break the tap.
But the correct choice when tapping a blind hole is ALWAYS a machine tap. The flutes are designed to pull the chips out of the hole.
Secondly use as much coolant as possible. Taps simply just break without the lubrication and cooling of good coolant.
Third. Always check and make sure that your drill and tap are spinning perfectly true. Ive had it be off a bit because i was using a busted tool holder.
Fourth.
When programing the code. Always put the M03 Sxxx, in the line immediately above the G84 line. Some machines simply wont understand that what you are trying to do is rigid tapping.
Wouldn't a form tap work too while also producing stronger threads and not having to worry about chip evacuation?
@@allen_chao Yes. They work well. Just make sure you use the correlating drill, because they are certainly different.
Also, they tend to have higher cutting forces and might snap if things aren't perfect.
@@ChefofWar33 yup, definitely experienced accidentally using a cut tap drill size instead of a form tap drill size and broke a form tap when I was first learning😅
I'm just taking my first CNC course so you obviously have more experience, but when going over rigid tapping on a Haas mill we were told specifically not to put the M03 code in with the speed because it will override the change in spindle rotation that is automatically in the G84 code? Would the exact rigid tapping parameters be specific to particular makes/models of machine?
Otherwise thanks for the good tips, I'll be rigid tapping a part next week and I'm definitely a bit nervous about breaking the tool off, especially because it's on the smaller side (1/4-20).
Damn this comment is everything I'll take these tips for myself aswell
Mazda: raises 13b crate engine prices*
Rob: “Fvck that I’ll just make it”
true, but in some places, like where i live, no matter how good it is, you'd not be able to street it legally :(
The crate engines are junk as well, need major work done on them if you want them to last. So might as well pay for a billet engine at this point.
@@CrazyCat229 I have heard a lot of people having issues with the recent crate engines not being up to spec. And they have to go through them before trusting it. But at least then you get all new components.
REAL 😆
@@TheHighbornwhere? In uk , as long as it’s deemed safe by inspection, you could literally build everything from scratch
This man is carrying the entire rotary's legacy on his back❤
well publicly, theres many shops that make this sort of stuff but its all behind closed doors and you can only buy products from them.
Disrespecting Puerto Ricans and Australians
Not so much Australians but more the kiwis
And vargas brothers
No billetpro and pac performance in Australia they been doing this years ago lol
I just started as a machinist in the past year
And to be completely honest, watching you get your CNC and start making your own stuff was my inspiration.
I used to be in the automotive field but now I'm making more money and even enjoying my work even more, which I didn't think was possible.
Rob, thank you very much for creating your content for us viewers.
Any recommendations on getting into what you do?
@@toejamr1 I'm finishing my second year becoming a machinist at a technical college, definitely see if there are any schools in your area teaching the trade but machine shops are always looking for new people as the amount of people going into the field has been declining and a lot of the workers are getting close to retiring age
lots of tech schools have machinist programs. Titans of CNC has some videos about interesting processes with cnc machines.@@toejamr1 there are probably shops around you looking for new hire apprentices. Once you have some years under you watching measure will make you cringe, the trade is a lot about feel and precise instrumentation so you can bee 100% sure that what you are reading is the true size. its not just Neander the Vernier's in a hole and say yea that looks right, there are a lot of heavy handed people out there and what one guy measures may not be what someone else measures if they have a heavier touch
@@toejamr1community college
@@toejamr1 do what Allen said and also go to a machinist/steel workers Union and tell them you're looking to get an apprenticeship. Alot of the times you'll find a good job sooner rather than later that way!
Never clicked on a video so fast in my life. I absolutely love what you do rob. So honest and transparent hands down best automotive UA-camr 💯
The second he blew the 4 rotor up I was waiting 😂
Tip for the future dowel hole machining: You may want to opt for a smaller diameter endmill, with a less flutes and higher rake for chip clearance.
Pre-drill with a twist drill (%50 final dia) for more chip clearance (peck drill) to reduce face milling with the tool and tool % engagement
Use the smaller endmill to then helical plunge rough cut to within .025-.050 the final diameter
Follow with a semi-finishing pass (dia -.010) on the same endmill or one with more flutes (more rigid)
Reamer plunge cut to final diameter.
Other misc: possibly modify the circular interpolation to get rid of some of the "faceting" you see on the larger complex curves. This may/may not affect seals, but could change how a bushing wears because of stress points.
Looks good!
I knew someone already answered my question, it seemed like there was too much build up around the drill
Another tip would be to use an indexable face mill for the surface mill passes. My first CNC job taught me a lot.
Well, maybe i'm thinking too much about machining speed, but i'd get a modular or indexable drill, because it's way faster and usually very straight and reliable, also with the precision.
Of course, they are expensive and it depends on a lot of parameters, but if he really want's to produce a lot of them, then they would certainly be worth it.
Would also recommend thread mills instead of taps for cnc milling just chase the threads with a hand tap afterwards
we started with just a guy wanting to make a crazy 4 rotor build. we ended with a guy revamping the whole rotary scene. and we couldn't be happier. love you Rob!!!
It ain't ending bro it's just the beginning of a new saga in the story of our favorite madman and his life partners
I'm not sure if it would be worth the while, but you can get the aluminum billets custom forged to make the grain pattern of the aluminum follow favourable directions. This can make the parts even more durable.
I guess if he makes the jigs it won't be too hard for him to recreate the parts
@@ImKairyuthat's not the point.
It's about the inner strengt of the finnished part.
@@adrianfinkler6913 I think what Kairyu is saying is that because he has all the cnc path coded to replicate machining out the irons, he can always make new irons in the future with custom forged billets like mattb suggested.
@@zamorakxe Well yeah, but forged ones will be far better, aswell as usable and repeatable with the fixtures.
Do you know why rob would use aluminum instead of steel for this application? If strength is a concern steel seems like the obvious choice
For tapping use a collet type holder not a drill chuck. The force of tapping will spin the tap in the chuck causing it to lose timing and break as it did with you.
Great work though! 👏🏻
as a machinist, in cringed seeing a tap in a drill chuck
I thought the exact same thing when I watched it and had a look thru the comments to see if anyone else spotted it lol
Rob’s doing great as a self taught engineer. It’s just some basic stuff that lets him down. 👏🏻
@@adamfournier6735 it works fine on manual or semi manual machines with a Z axis quill that the tap can pull down on its own as long as it's not a really big tap. For programmed tapping though, it's a bad idea.
Rob is not jus a UA-camr, he is a artist and when we look back on this people will wonder 2 things, why/how and I wonder what it would be like to see him working on it, you truely are changing the way people view rotary engines. Thank you rob for being so awesome and please build the nastiest single rotor engine🙏🏽
I can see Rob needing to buy more CNC machines soon haha
A 5-axis mill could make a complete iron in 2 setups no problem (less finishing operations like the tungsten spray). A 4th axis in the current mill might do it if all the oil passages are parallel and at an angle that’s also compatible with finishing the ports.
I think production of engine parts is the natural evolution of the channel and your company. With the long road you’ve been down, building (and breaking) rotary’s and the experience that goes along with it.
You can program the drill to spin backwards momentarily after backing out of each peck. That will throw the metal building up on the drill for you.
That's not nice.
Why would you say that?
WTF are you smoking?@@regjoe30
@@VR6NAVYVW since you seem to know so much about this subject, what is the specific line of code that performs this reversing of the spindle with each peck?
@@VR6NAVYVW proper chip ejection has absolutely nothing to do with reversing the rpm of the spindle.
As you build these, you will continue to improve processes.
My old timer recommendation is to finish as much of the insignificant items as possible first.
That way all the precision machining doesn't get scrapped for something menial.
Easy to hard not hard to easy.
Better to scrap a pice with minimal hours than one with maximum hours.
Separate programs. Center bearing AND locating dowels need to be separate options to allow for proper sizing of each individually.
You can rough everything in one shot.
Use a spiral flute tap and special ER32 tap collets. You basically need those 2 items to rigid tap on the HAAS. Thread milling everything is an option too, but you'll want go/no go gauges.
For a blind hole, machine taps are far better. Spiral taps push the chip into the hole. Machine taps pull them out of it.
For the blind holes into the fixture plate, for v2 you can make a thicker fixture plate with chip evacuation channels and a hose attachment to flood coolant into it from underneeth, so once the hole is punched into the fixture channel the flooding coolant carries them away. Reduces the risk of ruining the hole due to a failure to evacuate chips. Only worth setting up if you're going to do a bunch, as it requires a lot of refixturing to drill the coolant spray holes and manifold for the hose to feed into.
As someone who has tried producing my own piston and rod combination I wish you the best luck sir in the metallurgy department, it sounds like quite the task getting the different materials to adhere to your billet rotor face ... Some of the seemingly easiest things are going to be what test your patience the most ... The devil is in the details... Good luck my friend i cant wait to follow your journey
I SOOO hope you open sales for billet engines! I don't have a ton of money right now, but eventually I want to build a mid-engine race car with a 3-rotor in it!
Can’t wait to see Dahm™️ engines in the fastest rotaries on the planet. The rotary equivalent to Steve Morris engines.
Dude, that didn't even occured to me till now! You're right! The same level of determination, innovation, willingness to learn new stuff, go against the grain - both Rob and Steve are engine masters. 😎🤟
It would be awesome to see a big block rotary with enlarged rotors!
@@tyler0487 The new hybrid generator things Mazda is doing are higher displacement. I haven't found any info, but I'm hoping they are just thicker instead of totally different. That way we could just get e-shafts and THICC housings made, just like when the 12a became the 13b.
@@bennyb.1742I heard they are the exact same geometry, but longer, so the plates might be the same or very simmillar.
But of course i might be wrong.
I was going to comment about him becoming the Steve Morris of rotaries, you beat me to it.
Hey Rob,
I am a professional machinist in the space industry, I only use single flute thread mills for threading holes. You have the ability to make the thread as accurate as you want with the benefit of not ruining the entire part when you break a tool. I recommend Micro 100 you can machine multiple thread sizes with a single threadmill.
Rob, what an awesome journey you've been on since your departure with your previous tuner/builder many years ago. seeing you become one of the biggest players in the rotary world is surreal. you're doing such amazing work, i can't wait to see whats in store for 2024!!
Biggest DIY builder and machinist not biggest player in the rotary world though.. those aren't even in the states .. but Rob is definitely headed down a path where he could become a savior to a platform because Rob's end goals are completely different than the average companies or average Joe who would be after a massive payday
One of the biggest players? I would say he is at the Throne about now. i havent seen a single soul with the dedication and time spent in Rotary world.
This channel routinely puts out the best long-format, in depth, informative automotive content on UA-cam.
The four rotor build was the biggest thing you did on your channel, until now. It's one thing to learn how to build your own engines, but to share it with everyone is a huge monument.
This is cool. More the marrier in the billet plate game I say. What we need are billet rotors and housings though. Every few years they pop up with big hype and then just kind of disappear. If anyone has the obsessiveness to get it done, its Rob.
I’m a prototype machinist and so I love this content. When you snapped the tap I laughed 😂 nothing worse…
There is no bigger adrenaline rush than walking a tap cycle through on a part that CANT be messed up.
my laugh was when he referred to “boring” the center bearing … he’s gonna be so hyped when he discovers boring heads
A BIG Thank You Rob for all you do for your UA-cam viewers!!!
You make your videos interesting even for those of us without rotary-Wankel, Mazda engines.
Genuinely feel like im watching history be made. We used to rebuild 13b's at my old work, and it was just accepted that you start with loads of cores and build a few new motors, the new OE parts were always so expensive compared to the cost of the cars. I hope rob doesnt sell this stuff cheap but it seems so wholesome to see the progress outside of an OE manufacturers r&d lab.
This I think is the first ever case of a future word of authority in a given field documenting their entire journey to that point.
I can totally see "Dahm Engineering" being a full fledged business in 10 years.
6:53 Maybe you could use a pool noodle on the front spoiler as a quick safety when you have the car in the air
A yellow one, so it can cosplay as a Dodge
Good idea!
WE DEFINITELY MAKING THE ROTARY MORE RELIABLE AND AFFORDABLE WITH THIS ONE!!... 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
This right here is the content I'm here for. Amazing explanations and in depth analysis of the materials and I am so appreciative of Rob for being open about the quality of materials they use at the shop. Instead of gatekeeping, I think he is trying to spur more innovation in the rotary world by being transparent and hopefully creating competition in quality and efficiency.
I don't think there's any better comment section on UA-cam than Rob's right now. You've got tonnes of love for the ambitious projects Rob's taking on, but even better you've got legit professionals weighing in and clearly being listened to. It's a pleasure to share in the experience.
Hey Rob a quick tip for the hole chamfers. Do the chamfers before reaming the holes that way you don't get a burr on the inside of it.
Hey Rob, big fan from Germany here, i have a tip for you when working with 7075 AL material, 7075 is having the nature of warping while machining or under heat, to account that you can mill both layers with the same amount of material taken off, so lets say -5mm on top and -5mm below. Knowing in wich way your billet block was Forged or Poured could also help determine where and how much you have to take off it. Im a CNC Machine Programmer and Machinist and mostly do Prototype Brake Calipers and is mostly work with this Stuff.
Rob you need to invest in a set of gauge pins... and probably a flycutter if the machine can support it. BTW this is what ive been waiting for. Big next step!
You guys really show what great friendship and probably brotherhood looks like.
It's definitely something I miss, to be honest. But I love to see it!!
I’ve been following the channel for a very long time, and I never thought that one day this guy was going to do shit this complicated and awesome… This is beyond amazing.
It seems Ethan has been doing an insane amount of work behind the scenes. Been following this channel for years and he’s been an amazing addition
Damn son. You have some balls to run a brand new program on 100% rapid and not walking it through. 😂
“Ignorance is bliss” as they say. Probably one of my favorite qualities of Rob, the man has limitless enthusiasm
Rob knows how entertain! I’m on the edge of my seat watching these plunges
This is why I subscribed to Robs channel years ago. Thank you
been a CNC machinist for years now and i cannot wait to see how this project goes.
Just loving the journey Rob and the team are travelling!
This man is a big contribution to the rotary world. Definitely a big influence on keeping the best part of the mazda legacy going. Tempting me to go buy a series one rx7. Lol
Impressive Rob.
Thanks for showing us all the progress.
And awesome you got a whole team of patrons looking over your shoulder. 💪🏼
This is absolutely gorgeous machining, wow! I wish Rob all the best on this, and hopefully this means 6-rotors are going to be billet too!
Very impressive! When doing final assembly. Cool the pieces that go in down in the freezer, they will shrink and fit and expand into place when they heat up. Just an idea.
Very very cool!!
I am so excited for these engines! Let’s go Rob!!
Rob is my hero. tryna CNC an entire engine when he’s never even threaded a hole. baptism by fire. what a legend
I cant be the only one who is running a machine while watching Rob machine ❤
If this dropped earlier ide be doing the same
just finished programming while watching rob and about to run a machine lol
I have been a professional machinist for 7 years now, and I can say without a doubt that Rob looks like he knows what he's doing.
Actually Rob, there are some other youtubers building engines from scratch, but they are piston engines. Check out Greg Quirin's domunentation of the Aardema-Braun land speed racing team.
Two Stroke Stuffing as well.
The first thin layer test for CNC programming will make an awesome wall art for me ❤
I like it so much it's beautiful 😍
A Rob Dahm + Titans of CNC collab would be fuckin lit
If titan were to do some billet rotors for him it would be literal rotary endgame.
But id honestly rather see him tackle it himself first.
Kenametal makes a great tap for your application. I work in a CNC shop, something I noticed was your speed when tapping. Slow that bad boy down brother! Keep up the good work
If the rotors were wider, would it be a workable way of increasing displacement and power?
Yes, that's the main difference between 10a, 12a, & 13b, and also the reason housings can't be interchanged but irons can. Rotors are the same sizes but different widths. As for Mazda's new rotary engines, I believe the rotors are taller and wider, and nothing interchanges with 10a, 12a, or 13b engines.
would love to see some metal 3D printed plates one day, you could design coolant passages that can't possibly be machined and truly optimize designs. can't wait til that tech is more accessible!
Edit: you should invite Donnie out from Titans of CNC to help you figure out best methods of manufacturing with your set up, just saying you could learn a lot and it would be a cool team up!
Titan is laughable. Absolutely pointless to run cutters three times faster than they are rated. Wish that channel was less show and more know.
have you ever seen rob smile soo much in 1 video other than when the engine first started and when it did its first proper drift
Something about Rob Dahm that just rocks me to sleep...don't get me wrong; the topics are fascinating, the work being done and the editing enthralling, and my boy Rob's pretty easy on the eye...but I just drift off watching his videos...haven't yet learned a thing. Gonna rewatch the whole 4-Rotor wiring series with several cans of Monster coz I'm going to attempt to rewire parts of my classic Mercedes soon
I'd recommend using roll taps. They form the threads by pushing the material instead of cutting the thread in
This results in a stronger thread as the grain on the metal ain't cut, it's just reformed. If you do end up roll tapping just remember that your drill size = diameter of the tap - 1/2 of the pitch ( instead of subtracting the full pitch when thread cutting)
Rob if you start making every single piece of an engine, you should make a bunch of displacements. I'd love a smol one for a gokart
I've been seeing little easter eggs about these plates, and at first when I was watching this I was taken back a little bit, i was like, "Wait, you coping those plates?". But listening to you and knowing Daddy Dahm style from your builds, I later realised you're just making them better. You've just used them as a guide only. At first I was a little apprehensive, but after watching the whole vlog, I'm totally OK with what you're doing, especially with how much info and detail you've gone into.
This is awesome, and I can't wait to see and especially hear how this works out for you. BRAPLIFE!
I feel like I'm watching something umportant. In 15 years, they'll talk about Rob Fahm as a legend. And I'll have watched the journey 💯
If Dahm Racing Engines takes off, in 5 years will he be Still DRE?
For blind holes, it is good to use a drill with inner cooling chambers that can push out the chips from the hole. There are multiple types of it, simple twist type, changeable tip type, and changeable insert type. The insert types you do not even have to pull out after every certain depth cut.
8:15...wall art i didnt know i needed...
If you're worried about getting the tapping right, thread mills make things pretty easy at the expense of extra time in the machine and higher tool cost. That and it really lets you dial in the fit you want.
If you're starting from scratch, would it not make sense if you wanted to go to even larger studs for more holding power to maybe space out the studs from the rotor area and enlarge the footprint slightly. Also with building from scratch could you angle the intake ports upward so the intake isn't directly above the exhaust? I know they have to enter the rotor at the same spot,. Maybe the swirl would be off, but it's a thought I've had.
My guy is super passionate and it completely shows.
Life goals ✔️
Dude!... Love your Rotary Engineering into the 21st Century with your metallurgy. I cant agree more with your direction!
I’ve never become a patron supporter of anything but this…this is so rad. You’re getting a new supporter right now.
Just a little note. I've used those internal expanding clamps and they are not always concentric to the OD that you used to locate them especially after you tap it in with a hammer. I like to install them and come back with and endmill and take about .015" of the expanding part to true up their location. you'll still have enough expansion to do the job. :)
Rob, use collets, not drill chucks. I play milling at home and learned that lesson. Machining is a never ending learning exercise. Truly impressed with your enthusiasm and willingness to learn.
Rob I absolutely love your content dude! 👌 I mean seriously!!! To have watched you grow over the last 5 years to where you and the team are now Engineering your own Engine components is absolutely blowing my mind! 👏👏👏
The last couple years has been outstanding dude and I'm hoping for many more years of in depth, tech talking entertainment.
Love the work boys keep it up!!!!
I remember the Holiday Inn commercials BUT Pepperidge Farm also remembers.
Man, if you had told me way back when you and Jaret were making weird skits in the garage in Michigan, or videos about how games get guns wrong, that you would be CNC machining your own engine one day a few years later I would have bet you everything I had that it would never happen. It's amazing how far you've come and I can't wait until the day this thing fires up and screams to life for the first time.
Few tips from a machinist: Get a bore gauge set, the T shaped measurement tool kit and use those to measure round holes. When measuring with a digital caliper, the prongs are always square, so you wont get true measurements from round holes. And another thing, make sure the surfaces are spotless when you flip the parts over, one spec of aluminium shavings in there and the part is ruined. Hospital conditions.
Other than that, you are doing great! :)
I watch this work and it fills be with happiness, that the engine lives on. Hopefully one day there will be more affordable options for housing and plate replacement for our engines, especially since the price of the Mazda keg has doubled.
Looks great. Can’t wait to see the tungsten being applied!
I worked as a maintenance mechanic on CNC machines for a ceramic manufacturer. They used wax to adhere parts to plates when they would do the machining or even created a vacuum plate in order to hold parts down.
So cool man. After watching this whole time seeing all you do with the rotary, ive learned a lot. I bet a lot of people would buy an engine from you. I machined for a few years, any time i ever rigid tapped allum. I slowed the speed /feed down at least 40% of what you were running and used the largest possible drill size to get the thread engagement you need. Also used the cnc to start blind tapped holes, only maby .300, then its perfect square and then the rest is finished by hand in deburr. The spring loaded holders were easier, they give up and down play so when the tap gets a hard spot or hung up slightly the machine cant break it.
I've always ALWAYS wanted to do this... I've got a pretty massive CNC... and it cuts aluminum no prob, but I want to actually take the aluminum from soda cans my family drinks recycle it, alloy it in my smelter, and then pour it and cut it into shape.
Really happy for you, cutting engine parts is a huge milestone. 😊
I can honestly watch this kind of content all day. Seeing you're progress for the last 2 years or so I knew eventually the time would come that you'd be machining your own engine parts. I work for G.S. Precision in Vermont, in the finishing department, doing micro deburring of aerospace components and I'm hoping to get into CNC at some point in the near future. Thank you for your innovation and for making people like myself pursue this kind of work/creativity!
Rob, preparations A-G went well. Now it's time for the next preparation.
congrats Rob, you are taking the rotary engine to a whole new level.
This is so awesome to see you finally starting this process, hats off to you rob!
For smaller tapped holes, Program a treadmill to the holes instead of a tap. Thread mills are way more accurate and a hell of a lot stronger. I work with 6061 T651 aluminum and A286 every day and thread mills are the best way of going about it.
IT'S HAPPENING
Couldn't be happier for all of you!
rob went from overnighting parts from japan to making japan parts overnight. just insane. cannot wait to see the final product
It’s unbelievable how far you’ve come Rob. So unbelievably proud of you brother
OMG, a Rob Dahm video during the work day ... how are we all this lucky.
Rob! O ring seals are left square in the bottom to give the o ring room to expand! I'm not sure how big your seal surface is but I would not go bigger than .005-.01 rad in the bottom of that o ring chanel! Otherwise the oring can expand over the groove and cause incomplete sealing!
This isn't my project and I have anxiety watching these cuts lol. I'm going to love watching this whole build. It's impressive
This is awesome thanks for letting us in on the r and d.
Make sure you open up or deepen the oring grooves when you radius the corners to account for the cross section you lost or you may end up crushing the orings.
Also you’re going to want to use an er collet for both the drill and the tap when rigid tapping because runout is critical.
And if you get past prototyping it’ll be time to invest in some coolant through drills and drill the coolant passages to size in one shot.
And for the love of good, get a torque wrench for your collet nuts, it matters.
pretty sure I recall the reverse comment in older vids with the square grooves hahahah
Great reminder: account for the cross sectional area fully
What I love about the rotary is multifuel and air management flexibility.
twin charging and renewable fuel+volatile gasses
Mazda shows us the Iconic SP concept with its' two-rotor system earlier this week. Rob takes the first step towards making his own rotary.
The rotary is coming back.
Rob if you need your plates checked we do CMM measuring at our shop, of course would just need your target numbers but would be great to verify the bearing centres are concentric.
Rigid tap holders need to be able to float vertically. You MAY be able to tap aluminum rigid if you max out your minimum RPM (for my vf2-ss that's about 250 RPM) and adding a dwell time in fusion before reversing. With that being said, I tap mostly hardened tool steel.
Another viable option I HAVE done is to find a throwaway collet and put the tap in the collet with "enough" tension to turn, but also enough to slip when reversing happens.
Done that with 5/8-11 in 45HRC tool steel. If it works for that, it will work for you.
This is it..🎉Congrats Rob🎉...Can't wait to hear a 2/3/4/6 Dahm Rotar Engine🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Rob - A carbide spade drill will be quite helpful removing / drilling out broken taps