Micro Hydro Coanda Screen Intake
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2021
- The micro hydro intake is about to get a big upgrade. This is the Coanda screen from Elgin. This specially designed intake box will pull water in and keep debris out. I need to get the box as level as possible and that turns out to be a difficult task against this rock.
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This style intake screen slices the water and pulls it into the Box while leaving a smooth surface for debris to slide off. Really works well for micro hydro applications. More videos on this to come.
Ppppppooooooooooooooo p
Just kidding
Every time you said 'coanda' I heard 'Wakanda' in my head. :) Cool stuff though, very interesting!
You could use 3/8 threaded rod on the bottom two holes and make it adjustable so that you can bring the bottom up out or in
That may work. But it needs more support to do that
Coanda screen intakes are designed for a levelled surface, you loose alot of absorbtion efficiency because the water flows at a bad angle in the intale. Use a bubble lever and adjust the intake box properly.
Yes! That will be a video for the spring when the temps are higher. Now that I know this is going to work I need to get it level.
I think that's a clever idea to use the water-filled boy as a pre-intake. It automatically levels the surface. But it might fill with silt etc. to fast. We will see ...
Also, the vertical leveling of the Coanda box is crucial for the function. The angle at which it flows down and over the slits is critical.
Nice to see you working on this again. Obviously the screen is pretty well optimised for the outlet tube size, but I could see a lot of restriction at higher flow rates. Maybe having the drop to the tank would add some vacuum, causing less loss of water.
Very cool, well done!
A thought for the next rendition. Measure the angle on the coanda side of your box, to a level and then re-cut the side's to match that angle so the coanda box can sit level front-to-back. That should help with water collection, and cleaning, it might also give you a bit more clearance on the bottom from the lower rocks.
With a grinder, one could carve that rock to fit your intake perfectly, no wood required.
That’s a slick setup!
Good effort!
Thank you. The hydro is up and running for 2022. Video will be out in a few weeks.
Looking forward to you trying different angles and approach flumes to get max inlet flow. Would be nice to see it pulling all the water, as Elgin advertised, but you’re off to a great start! Thanks for the vids, Seth.
Welcome back
Have you thought of using an Angle Grinder with a diamond tipped disc, and carve the rock to be a nice flat surface to mount on to.
I was thinking about this too
As long as he uses Double Eye Protection! 30+ years in construction here & STILL have both eyes! 🕶️👀👍🏻
Was thinking the same thing .. use the natural rock so you have less things to maintain . Woof eventually rots or breaks . Stone last a lot longer of course.
Looking good Seth got love free power well if you do not count all your hard work!
It is work but at the same time it is my hobby and fun at the same time. Its nice to have a hobby that pays off in the end.
I think I would cut the two side bords of the wooden Box to bring the screen box to vertical
Hello from France, Coanda screen is perfect for your setup. But the wood box will be soon full of sand, mud and debrie.
That's why it's there
Next Level Carpentry!
You should make some simple shims (triangle cut pieces of wood) and shim the last piece of wood you attached to level the screen or to give it the tilt you want. At 23:19 see the wood you have your screen bolted into? Between that piece of wood and the second wood plank there, just shim between the two pieces of wood, either glue/screw or nail a shim on both sides on the bottom. Like hanging kitchen cabinets on an imperfect wall/floor.
You have a lot of weight/load on 2 small bolts securing the pick up to the rock.
smiles... a bit late herer.. but .... the jammed bit could be used as a guide retainer and you screw the other side to secure completely .. no need to cut off .. use as a STUD .. lol.. all how u look at the solution problem ... great shows and keep up excellent work .. happy new year
What would be a good goal, would be to temporarily bypass the water and build and dam up where you are getting your water.. I would put a few 1/4" anchor bolts and pour some marine grade concrete to build it, also raise it by about 2 feet.. You would have a completely flat & level spot to mount everything too.. Yes I know it would be a big job, that being said you would have a better mounting spot it would be higher so the pressure would increase and should provide you with more power and also allow you to do more testing.. This is just my thought.. Oh and with it dammed up you could add a debris catchment further back to minimize what goes into your intake catchment... Loved the video.. Love watching people becoming completely self sufficient..
Throw the pre-box away. Keep the 30" 2x8 (could of been a 2x4) on the rock, but mount it level side to side. You can drill the holes in the board bigger or slot them & use big fender washers.
Now build a table. Shape the edge of the plywood (30"x20", bigger if you want) to match the edge of the rock. Mount plywood to top of the 30" 2x8 loosely. Mount 2 16" 2x4's (2x16 surface up) to bottom of plywood with more than the width of the intake+tabs between them. Extending past the front edge is fine.
The 2 legs need to be level up & down on front surface. Table top should have a slight grade. Measure the height needed for one leg, cut a 2x4 to that length. Mount leg to inside of 16" 2x4, flush (4" side) to the front edge of the plywood. Trim as needed. Repeat for second leg.
Finish mounting plywood to 30" 2x8.
Mount intake to legs, flush to top of table. Intake should be true & level.
Mount some 2x4's as walls to top of plywood, from corner to intake.
I love that set up. It looks clean and collects alot of water. Not to give you any ideas but what if you had another box under that one collecting even more water. Not sure if you need anymore water but seems like the next step. Lol. Great job on the build
Thank you! It needs a little tweaking but seems to work well! For half the year the flow rate is very low up there and the second box would not catch much. For the winter I could use that water for something. Not sure what. haha
Ждем продолжения :)
I suggest using concrete cement mix on your base rather than wood.
Get your self a diamond wheel that will fit a angle grinder and cut a few slits in the rock above to help channel more water. If I was doing this I would diver the water and use concrete to build a splash pool with a flat face slightly lower to attach the screen to . Interested in seeing the flow resulsts.
Nice flow there today Seth! The Coanda screens are awesome for sure. I dream of the day when I will have a spring like yours to play in and make my own power from. Looking forward to more. Thanks for sharing.
I would be tempted to try laying a piece of plywood on the top of that rock shelf so I could scribe the profile of the rock face on it, then transfer that profile to the 2x12 so I could shape the edge of the board to better fit the face of the rock. You could build the box and mounting surface for the Coanda off of that board and then attach it to the board you tapcon mounted onto the shelf. Does that make any sense?
Recurring the sides at an angle to level the front better
Ever thought of 4 threaded rods, that you glue into the stone? So you didnt need the wooden structure for the coanda screen. You can put some screw nuts on it for leveling the depth.
Omg! Should have totally put a 'drain' on the side of the box!!! Would make working on the screen much easier! Oh well! Next time.
Thanks for the video!!!!!!
Like all Land To House projects there is room for a second rendition.
Hey Seth
To comment on your end result, I would build a small flume of 20-30cm or 1ft between new wood box and your Coanda screen to take care of the larger air bubbles in the water.
In your construction you have only leveled out the Coanda box in one direction and I think you said it yourself. I think you should level out the box on the perpendicular axis as well, by correcting the angle of it for it to work better.
Also your new wood box should over time fill op with dirt and smaller rocks. Will it survive that weight? You might as well find some larger maybe light gravel and add to it.
And what happens when the box freezes up during winter? Will the water not break the box.
Lastly, remember to add something into the drilled holes to keep moisture out, otherwise the rock might crack and crumble on you over a few winters, if water is allowed to stay in there and freeze inside these holes.
I would redesign your wood box.
Start by making it a 2ft long flume that is shaped with the width of your board put on the wall and narrow it down to fit the width of the Coanda Screen box over the length of the flume.
And the flume should have no blockage at all, that will only catch debris and cause other problems.
I believe you should first make a wider recipient so that the water falling can make sort of a brake in this recipient and then afterwards install the new filter screen on an adjustable base so that you can lift or push down the screen taking into consideration the suitable angle. By that you will be able to capture the maximum quantity of water no matter then strength of the water flow. By the way if you will add another screen on the wood as you said that won’t be feasible as the papers are going to get stuck on it and prevent the water from getting to the system. Cheers man 😉🍻
you should put a radial flow settler down from that screen like they use in aquaponics to filter out the dirt, but looking more professional, i like it.
You could totally rent a gas powered diamond blade saw (concrete saw) handheld and cut the Rock smooth on the face of it then you might just be able to use some pond foam sealant and glue and screw a bored to the cut rock then screw your screen to it. If you can find it plastic wood thick enough would be nicer to use
Neat project, thanks for sharing.
Didn't your ATV have a cargo box mounted on the rear for hauling tools and such?
Hydraulic cement (drylok fast plug) applied to the board/rock joint like you are caulking around your bath tub, will do a great job keeping water from running behind the board instead of into the collector.
the catchment before the coanda screen needs to have higher capacity so it holds a good volume of water, then have it spill over on the screen. at the moment it is flowing from up high and pushing the water forward and that is what is making it go off the screen. as long as you install the screen level and have a good volume for it to flow from and into your pipe, it will be ok... you don't wanna have the running water above it and pushing the water over it at high speeds as seen here.
Looking forward to next video. There Seth. How is you new electric shed coming on
The power shed is coming along! Today I installed the concrete board on the inside to hopefully be a fire resistant layer between the house and the electronics.
rub the threads of the bolt in soap or was helps stop some of the friction and easier to tighten
Why don't you build a dam structure off to the side using concrete and rocks and make a proper flat surface to mount the coanda screen. Have an overflow 'spillway' to put excess water back into the original creek. Then divert the creek into the new dam and you're all set with a good feed to your penstock.
Just a. Suggestion maybe you can tilt the catch basin around 30 degrees or 20 so that it will. Catch more water.. I think the flow rate would not be so efficient if more water are being wasted...
why installing a wooden body adapter requires extra maintenance and creates more air bubbles
You should try an sds drill for stone, you’ll never look back
I wish I could afford one.
Can you use "high density , closed cell foam" between the rock and the timber? I have used it on my pick up, to prevent water leakage at the joints. 5 months later, 100% seal has been retained.
I think the catch box or the shoot would benefit from being longer to give the water more time to calm down or a baffle in the box but that could cause problems maybe a rubber curtain like is used on a gold sleuse box could be a simple robust way to calm the water down
Fantastic idea. I might even use a strip of roof rubber from the Box to the coanda screen to bridge that gap
@@LandtoHouse that will definitely help smooth things down try to not have any sharp edges or drop offs any thing that obstructs flow creates a vortex
Do you think a metal cleat system would work better for mounting that box to the stone? I’m worried that wood box will rot out over time and break loose. Otherwise, that looks great.
Oh for sure! This idea was just to get something up and pulling water. A metal cleat might work as long as there is a way to prevent it from washing out in heavy rain.
@@LandtoHouse A while back, I built a solar air heater for my garage. It was big and heavy so I used a French cleat to support it. I made sure the cleat was wider than the heater box so it extended outward a bit on both sides. I was able to place additional bolts thru the cleats where they were extended. I did that to insure a strong wind didn't lift the box off the cleats.
Comment for the algorithm
Thank you. Thats the best kind. haha
At the 6:25 mark, do you have a cordless grinder to under cut the rock? maybe you could cut in a ledge, and put the Coanda screen about a 1/8 under the rock ledge? My guess is it wouldn't let water escape.
I have an angle grinder with the cord on it and a power generator Box. Definitely an option. I will probably test this one out for a while and then make that kind of modification.
It appears to me that allot of work has gone into the angle on the Elgin Coanda Screen blades and then you have mounted it at a random angle on the wooden box, wouldn't the Coanda be more efficient at catching water if it was mounted perfectly upright?
It would. Getting this mounted on that rock was a challenge. However the screen seems to pull most of the needed water at this angle. With more water flow a better mount would help a lot!
Maybe you should replace the screen with the gutter screen you just put on your gutters
I think it may be a bit late but how about diverting the stram temporarily and concreting a dam with flat surfaces and a right angle over the edge.
A spill weir to divert excess water, to protect the filter.
Is there any way of building a holding resovior off the line of the street to feed the hydro generator this should not be affected by the variation in water.
Then I would use thick say 1/8" 3mm silicone seals as silicone should not deterireate as the seal between the concrete and the stainless steel filter.
I presume the rubber tubing is bycilcle innertube which will deteriate with uv light and nateral chemicals which might be in the warer.
Is there any way of bumping the o/p up oversly with a bigger generator to say 500 or 1000W as 100Watts is not very much, it would be more than enough for my lights in the UK, but not much else.
Thank for the video and you idears.
Wish I lived next to a streem, as I would generate power, but in the UK we'd get charged for doing that, as I am told it's taking power out of the water source?
there is a japanese guy who has an elongated turbine, I see combination of that with this turbine as a viable option
Simple made complex
A Land To House specialty.
Why we can't make 1 hp to 10 hp turbine
Low head1metre 10 hp hydro power it's possible
Why not make a reservoir out of those stones you keep moving around??? You'd only have to haul up a bag of mortar and a trowel instead of all that lumber and those tools.
Think about it. I bet it would stand up to flood-driven debris a lot better than that wood.
your over thinking it on the 2 " pipe brother . yes you will need it but only enough to run to another barrel or box . where you can junction it to them three other pipes . unless the 2 " pipe is bigger but even then it would not be as big as them three pipes together . personally i think you might have to open that hole up to hold a 4" pipe to allow more water out of the box to feed them three pipes . right now you have water loss . only because the 2" pipe can not allow the water to flow out fast enough to keep up . i hope all is going well with you buddy stay safe and god bless .
I am not sure how I would connect the 3 poly pipes to a single 2" pipe. That was the main thing that I was thinking about. It would be easier to have those pipes stay where they are. I might have to think about this one for a couple days.
I am good. Just thought of 20 ideas for upcoming videos.
@@LandtoHouse all you need is a junction box or barrel run the 2" pipe into the barrel or box then run the three other pipes into the box or barrel . a barrel would be nice cause you could feed it into the top with the 2" pipe and run the other three into the bottom of it . and im glad you got so many ideas i have a hard time thinking of my next one lol . take care my friend .
@@LandtoHouse Aren't there some T-pieces with a 2" straight through and a 1 1/4" branch? Use 3 of them in a row with the last one shut on the 2" through line. Or you use two all-2" T-pieces in a row with three 2"-> 1 1/4" adapters on the 3 open ends.
You must have been so unlucky,,,today you get given a new filter ,and woy yours made a hole wow that's so believable ,,,what's next??
The hole was there from hurricane Fred. I ran the turbine like that for a few weeks. The coanda screen has been sitting in my shed for months waiting to be used.
Oh it was Fred,, OK 👌
@@LandtoHouse IDK if you know about Cypress lumber but it would be best for your wooden "box" portion as Cypress is essentially rot-proof when used in submerged/wet locations once it gets waterlogged.
@@LandtoHouse use your hammer-drill, rock bits & anchor screws to anchor some larger rocks to either side of the overflow to channel the water more efficiently.
You could reduce bubbles by raising the water box and/or adding a "waterslide" so your flow doesn't "drop-in" & make bubbles
@@LandtoHouse love your videos BTW! 👍🏻 Great info I will put to use if we get a place with a creek or some kind of water flow in the future! 👍🏻🙏🏻💸💸💸💸💸💸
TOO MANY specific needs for it to work right, imho… ma nature will NOT always comply…
at 1:05, gpm really? at 22:40, yep. there is too much velocity, from too much slope; JUST upstream of the filter.
I've tested the gallons per minute multiple times on this spot. We were in a semi flood stage. Typically at operates at around 30 gallons per minute.