As a mechanic I do drain and fills constantly. Most people are surprised just how dark their transmission fluid is. I use almost all OE fluids including CVT transmissions. I also perform a lot of fluid exchanges. We don’t call it a flush because it’s really not. The trans pressure pushes out the old fluid and pushes in the new fluid (16qts) The exchange is a BG machine. We do the exchanges on larger SUV’s or trucks that don’t have a drain plug. Yes we still do filter and pan services and recommend that first. However often vehicles come in with original trans fluid with 100k + and if you just change the filter and fill it, your fluid is still very dark and deteriorated. Been doing fluid exchanges and drain and fills for 17 years and I’ve not once had a customer come back with shifting concerns. On the contrary I’ve got many customers with high mileage vehicles that have us do a full exchange every 50-60k. I’ve even had guys that tow a lot that watch their trans temps notice it’s running cooler after an exchange.
That's exactly what I was hoping to hear! Thanks for sharing your experience as that should give us piece of mind with doing a drain and fill even after it's been 100k miles if we bought it used! OE fluids to me are the key to all of this
I have a 2009 Corolla since new and it now has 303,000 miles on the clock. I have done all basic maintenance myself other than brakes and tires. Brakes are done by Toyota specialist using OEM Toyota components and I only use all Toyota components in my car because I bought it for durability and the quality. I have drained the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles and and at 150,000 miles drop the pan cleaned it change the screen and used a Toyota filter screen and I’ve always use OEM Toyota WS fluid from dealer. No hiccups, car runs like a sewing machine still at 303k miles. Other non-maintenance parts I’ve had to replace over the years are all four ignition coils, and oil pressure sending switch, dipstick tube for the crankcase, and the coolant water pipe by the battery… All parts from Toyota on replacement
Very smart, I find using toyota parts makes the most sense to me, however I do like to use brake parts from O'Reilly because they just wear down and get replaced and I like doing brakes so I so them every 30k regardless of how bad they look. I like the ceramic ones personally but it sounds like what you are doing works perfectly and congratulations on 300k! They have stickers people put on cars for the 300k+ club, you should get one to brag!
Modern cars have no dipstick and the manufacturer makes a big deal about refilling with the proper amount of ATF. If you drain it out cold (overnight cold) and refill it with the same ambient temp fluid you are gonna be close enough if the car was shifting ok before. And if you are very careful in your measurements. Just did this in a 2017 Escape with 118k miles without prior servicing. Did 2 changes, seems to shift better but just as critical, I don't worry about it any more. Per other youtubes, the valvolene synth. ATF was used, available and cheap.
Hondas for sure are picky with the transmission fluid. I assume toyota is more forgiving with older models but seems Luke all fluids these days are getting more pickier like oil being synthetic and brake fluid being DOT4 now. Good old days my 79 Chevy had ATF as Transmission fluid and power steering fluid and it worked just fine
2007 Camy XLE,265000 miles, U660e trans. Bought it at 14500 miles. Have done at least 5 trans fluid drains and refills using Toyota fluid and checked trans level using scan tool trans temps. Shifts perfectly
@@dogshoe21 No drain plug, jus the plug with the plastic stem that is threaded above the plug. I never have replaced the filter. Also, car was bought at 145000 miles from original owners.
Universal fluids are not universal. Don't let anyone tell you different. Dont use the flush exchange process at the quick lubes. The flush stirs all the sediment and distributes it throughout the system. Causes issues. I am a do it yourselfer and I have has 2 instances where I trusted the universal fluid and near burned up the transmission. after buying the correct fluid and fill drain 3 times. I was able to remove enough of the UNIVERSAL FLUID to make it work the same as it was before I started this fluids maintenance change. Sure it may work on some, but sense those 2 issues, NEVER again. I use oem or OEM manufacturer oil mostly. This comes From experience! not second hand news, fella and felines.
Now Dayz most Garages only take the pan and filter out, then they put in new plastic pan with built in filter and put ATF back in. Most garages refuse to flush out the Torque Converter saying flushing out Torque Converter may damage or destroy the transmission. 2015 - 2024 Mustangs and Camaro have you done Transmission service where filter and ATF is changed and then Torque Converter is flushed out ? In the pan there could be 4 Litres of ATF and in the Torque Converter there could be around 7-8 Litres of ATF which most places don't flush out for modern cars.
Yeah they say 3 drain and fills does the complete system, and you ate supposed to drive thousands of miles in between those changes. Probably the least intrusive way to do it in my mind
It is good that I clicked on the video and listened. At first, the title sounded as a warning from most manufacturers which state the same. 😀 Couple of years back, my 2010 Acura RL showed me that ATF and Transfer case fluids need to be changed. I bought 4 bottles of DW1 fluid and 1 bottle of Hypoid gear oil. A good thing the car has transmission dipstick, which made things much easier and fill plug was on top too.
Glad to hear your thoughts... Done the Transmission Fluids on my Vehicles for over 30 years. For my 2003 Saturn (with its "Lifetime" ATF) I swapped it out with the Factory Saturn T-IV (basically GM/Toyota T-IV) at around 30K miles, and 140K miles (GM T-IV)... Oil Analysis showed the Transmission was "Health". It was VERY tempting to use a "Multi-Vehicle" ATF for both those changes... Because Saturn/GM wanted MEGA $$ for their T-IV. (Toyota on the other hand was far more reasonable for its own T-IV which was/should be exactly the same) Stuff like Mobil 1 ATF was (relatively) cheap but the HUGE list of "compatible" ATF Specs always gave me pause. I ONLY needed T-IV (and other owners also claimed/warned to only use T-IV).... Which leads to my 2014 GMC with its "need" for Dexron VI... My local shop quoted a "flush" (wording of the service/machine?) with their "Multi-ATF". I decided to get my own Dexron VI (was surprised how hard it was to find/decide which "flavor" of Dexron VI "compatible" fluids I would/should have picked. Valvoline for example has its GM "certified" Dexron VI and then something like its "Extended Protection" which is really a Multi-ATF with "Dexron VI" compatibility but missing the simplicity of being exactly what is needed vs having to provide a very wide number of Spec Requirements... Because my Terrain had gone "over" the recommended Interval (and I didn't provide my shop enough fluid for 3 drain/fills... More like just under 2) I'll be doing another drain/fill within 15K miles of the ATF drain/fill... This time I'll have enough for 3-4 drain/fills... Hopefully they won't need it all and I can return the unopened/unused fluid or save for next time...
I only have used the Dextron VI in the corolla's power steering because that's what the system calls for (dextron lll ) so far so good but glad you are paying attention to your fluids!
UK viewer here. Got a 2015 1.3L Yaris CVT (No dipstick) 2 yrs ago at 88,000m with FTSH (Full Toyota Service History) us Brits tend do buy cars like that. It has now 97,000m,but 2yrs ago i drained & re filled twice in a week as i got a 5L bottle of genuine Toyota FE at £70, it takes 2.2L each drain. I just got another bottle & did just one drain & re fill but will keep the remainder oil in the house so no moisture will collect sitting in the garage. Will use the rest 2.2L next year,then do another 2x maybe in 5 yrs. The 1st drain was dark but no metal bits on the magnet,2nd drain was slightly cleaner but not much,3x drain a lot cleaner. I think my madness isn't over kill,what do you think? Family member recently got a 2006 Honda Jazz/Fit (83,000m) with a CVT & that is kaput! Had to use that Lucus gear oil, it did help & work better
I think you are smart for being aware of your transmission fluid and changing it before having problems. I know CVT are new and have special fluids so as long as you are maintaining it, I think that is half the battle. I never find metal in the drain plug, just blackish goo, which is probably the bands wearing out over time.
I have a 2003 dodge ram 1500. Transmission fluid never been changed but, I need to change the filter and the solenoid. I’m not sure if I should reuse the same fluid.
I have heard that IF the fluid is still pink and isn't burnt, you can replace it with new, but if it's brown and burnt, maybe just screen it and put a little bit of it fresh fluid and maybe reuse like 60 to 70 percent of it. Then maybe a other 10k miles you do a drain and fill and keep reusing some of it and you'll eventually end up with newer fluid in there
dang, mazda asks $17/qt at the dealer for their RZ fluid. Even going the rock auto route, after shipping, the $10/qt turned into $16/qt, so not much saved there, so the OEM fluid is more or less a no brainer. I plan to drain and fill the 4-5 qts that will drain out on the CX-5 w/the mazda specific fluid...just need time.
Mazda made some cool things like the rotary engine, but long term those also were likely to have oil problems and they weren't built to last 20 years / 250k miles. I would check Amazon for fluid prices as well, might get lucky
We just bought a clean used 2017 Mazda CX-5 and as a 58 year old OCD car guy who does all his own maintenance and repairs, this is true about the wron fluid being installed all to often by professional mechanics. The very first thing I do after buying a used vehicle is a complete fluid refresh including trans, awd transaxle and rear differential and when I did the trans, it came out red. Anyone who knows Mazda's knows to only us Mazda oe fluid in this case blue in color FZ fluid. The couple who had if before probably had their local yokal mechanic do it and he probably used Valvoline maxlife multi vehicle which in itself is a good fluid however it just doesn't say anywhere on the bottle or online information that it covers Mazda FZ spec. I used it on our 99 Lexus rx300 for 11 years in place of type 4 without issue, because it meets that older spec but not Mazda FZ.
People assume that all transmission fluid is the same or they trust the bottle which says "meets or exceeds manufacture" which is a load of garbage unfortunately.
@dogshoe21 So I 99.9% agree with what you said "meets or exceeds manufacture" However in researching the Aisin-Warner A140F/E four speed auto in my wife's lexus rx300 with a transmission rebuilder and on tons of Toyota forums and even the local lexus service manager, I found the recomended Toyota T-IV to be a mineral Dexron III with an added tourque converter lockup shudder control additive which Valvoline Maxlife meets. This Aisin-Warner supplied to Toyota A140 series four speed transmission goes back to the 90's Rav 4 so it was technically not built for the added weight or power of Lexus's first SUV RX 300 model so it seemed to be a shoe in without redeveloping a transmission specifically for Lexus's first mid size SUV. There were quite a few of early failures specific to the rx300, as early as 40k with many owners. I knew about this when we bought it and naively thought, it's a Toyota and it might be due to lack of service and/or trailer boat towing so I was diligent in fluid refreshes ever 30k - 40k. We bought it as a one owner in 2008 with 124k with a rather impecable service history by the owner with Lexus of Naperville. A few years went on and I did periodic drain efills with the recomended Toyota T-IV automatic transmission fluid from the dealer again every 30k - 40k and what do you know, It failed at 260k. When I talked with the rebuilder he said it was almost always a planitary pin shearing failure which made sense because when it failed, it locked all four wheeIs solid as a rock and had to be dragged onto the flatbed kicking and screaming skidding tires and all. I'm a 58 year old car guy and I've never seen one fail like this before as it was normally the typical band slipping in older cars. Now I am not blaiming the OE Toyota ATF fluid, which is supplied by Mobil in the US and can also be found in the Mobil blue bottle as JSW 3309 spec. I also have no record of this transmission being replaced with the original owner under recall / warranty. So since the rebuild, I've been running Valvoline Maxlive in the red bottle although viscosity wise, it is leaning a bit closer to the current lower viscosity Toyota WS. Actually the blue bottle Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle is a closer match to Toyota T-IV viscosity mineral fluid but maxlife seems red seems to do well with all these older Toyota transmissions and when cold, fouth come s in a bit better it seems though adintintly this may be anecdotal. Both Maxlife and Import Vehicle are synthetic. Now this will be the only time you'll see me of the beaten OE fluid path. I will always recommend to others to go 100% OE transmission fluid from the dealer. Since we bought the 2017 Mazda CX-5 for my wife. The rx300 now has 403k miles on it and will serve as a winter\take the doe to the park backup. I just got through replacing both upstream air/fuel sensore, which lasted 403k. Wish these early Lexus's transmissions faired this well.
It's probably made similarly and with the same formulation, so it's good you do your research because alot of people don't. I've yet to have a transmission fail but I preferred driving a manual transmission my entire life until I got married and had to "upgrade" to automatic lol
@@dogshoe21 Good info here from you and 24hour. Still I think the fluids are mostly interchangeable keeping in mind the transmissions are not that different (CVTs excluded). Pretty clear that we are not folks who beat machinery so all our toys tend to outlast other less mechanically inclined people's.
@johns6816 the honda for sure is super picky with the tranny fluid. I wish it wasn't so but I know first had cause I did it and I sold the car because I wasn't sure if it would ever be back to normal
There's always and AMSoil person out there, welcome! My cousin swears by it, not sure about transmission fluid but if it works for you, I think report back 100k miles from now because perhaps it's better, but I've never tried it myself
Hey man great video. This is a lot of information that I will consider when I approach time to do a transmission service on my ram. I was already thinking that when I get to it, I will probably go to the dealership I bought it from and have them do it, they've been really good to me since I bought it.
Depends on how many miles you have on it, I would only let them touch my truck if i could watch them do it. I'm paranoid like that but I also have a big puddle in my garage cause some idiot former mechanic used air tools on my oil plug...
As a mechanic I do drain and fills constantly. Most people are surprised just how dark their transmission fluid is. I use almost all OE fluids including CVT transmissions. I also perform a lot of fluid exchanges. We don’t call it a flush because it’s really not. The trans pressure pushes out the old fluid and pushes in the new fluid (16qts) The exchange is a BG machine. We do the exchanges on larger SUV’s or trucks that don’t have a drain plug. Yes we still do filter and pan services and recommend that first. However often vehicles come in with original trans fluid with 100k + and if you just change the filter and fill it, your fluid is still very dark and deteriorated.
Been doing fluid exchanges and drain and fills for 17 years and I’ve not once had a customer come back with shifting concerns. On the contrary I’ve got many customers with high mileage vehicles that have us do a full exchange every 50-60k. I’ve even had guys that tow a lot that watch their trans temps notice it’s running cooler after an exchange.
That's exactly what I was hoping to hear! Thanks for sharing your experience as that should give us piece of mind with doing a drain and fill even after it's been 100k miles if we bought it used! OE fluids to me are the key to all of this
Excellent video, Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Had my "transmission" fluid drained and filled a couple months ago. 09 Prius with 251K miles on it. Runs great.
Awesome, I'd suggest doing it again in another 10k to 30k miles. Happy transmission is a good thing lol
I have a 2009 Corolla since new and it now has 303,000 miles on the clock. I have done all basic maintenance myself other than brakes and tires. Brakes are done by Toyota specialist using OEM Toyota components and I only use all Toyota components in my car because I bought it for durability and the quality. I have drained the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles and and at 150,000 miles drop the pan cleaned it change the screen and used a Toyota filter screen and I’ve always use OEM Toyota WS fluid from dealer. No hiccups, car runs like a sewing machine still at 303k miles. Other non-maintenance parts I’ve had to replace over the years are all four ignition coils, and oil pressure sending switch, dipstick tube for the crankcase, and the coolant water pipe by the battery… All parts from Toyota on replacement
Very smart, I find using toyota parts makes the most sense to me, however I do like to use brake parts from O'Reilly because they just wear down and get replaced and I like doing brakes so I so them every 30k regardless of how bad they look. I like the ceramic ones personally but it sounds like what you are doing works perfectly and congratulations on 300k! They have stickers people put on cars for the 300k+ club, you should get one to brag!
Modern cars have no dipstick and the manufacturer makes a big deal about refilling with the proper amount of ATF. If you drain it out cold (overnight cold) and refill it with the same ambient temp fluid you are gonna be close enough if the car was shifting ok before. And if you are very careful in your measurements.
Just did this in a 2017 Escape with 118k miles without prior servicing. Did 2 changes, seems to shift better but just as critical, I don't worry about it any more. Per other youtubes, the valvolene synth. ATF was used, available and cheap.
Hondas for sure are picky with the transmission fluid. I assume toyota is more forgiving with older models but seems Luke all fluids these days are getting more pickier like oil being synthetic and brake fluid being DOT4 now. Good old days my 79 Chevy had ATF as Transmission fluid and power steering fluid and it worked just fine
2007 Camy XLE,265000 miles, U660e trans. Bought it at 14500 miles. Have done at least 5 trans fluid drains and refills using Toyota fluid and checked trans level using scan tool trans temps. Shifts perfectly
Is there a drain plug? Did you change the filter if available? I will do this soon to the corolla
@@dogshoe21 No drain plug, jus the plug with the plastic stem that is threaded above the plug. I never have replaced the filter. Also, car was bought at 145000 miles from original owners.
It's worked for me with transmission shifting problems on older vehicles. Lubeguard helped.
I have heard of lube guard, what's in it? Just some conditioners for the materials inside?
Universal fluids are not universal. Don't let anyone tell you different. Dont use the flush exchange process at the quick lubes.
The flush stirs all the sediment and distributes it throughout the system. Causes issues. I am a do it yourselfer and I have has 2 instances where I trusted the universal fluid and near burned up the transmission. after buying the correct fluid and fill drain 3 times. I was able to remove enough of the UNIVERSAL FLUID to make it work the same as it was before I started this fluids maintenance change. Sure it may work on some, but sense those 2 issues, NEVER again. I use oem or OEM manufacturer oil mostly. This comes From experience! not second hand news, fella and felines.
Yup just like my honda, ever again use non oem fluid
Now Dayz most Garages only take the pan and filter out, then they put in new plastic pan with built in filter and put ATF back in. Most garages refuse to flush out the Torque Converter saying flushing out Torque Converter may damage or destroy the transmission. 2015 - 2024 Mustangs and Camaro have you done Transmission service where filter and ATF is changed and then Torque Converter is flushed out ? In the pan there could be 4 Litres of ATF and in the Torque Converter there could be around 7-8 Litres of ATF which most places don't flush out for modern cars.
Yeah they say 3 drain and fills does the complete system, and you ate supposed to drive thousands of miles in between those changes. Probably the least intrusive way to do it in my mind
It is good that I clicked on the video and listened. At first, the title sounded as a warning from most manufacturers which state the same. 😀 Couple of years back, my 2010 Acura RL showed me that ATF and Transfer case fluids need to be changed. I bought 4 bottles of DW1 fluid and 1 bottle of Hypoid gear oil. A good thing the car has transmission dipstick, which made things much easier and fill plug was on top too.
Yeah I wanted to help get people's attention with what they hear from dealerships and what actually is the truth
Glad to hear your thoughts... Done the Transmission Fluids on my Vehicles for over 30 years.
For my 2003 Saturn (with its "Lifetime" ATF) I swapped it out with the Factory Saturn T-IV (basically GM/Toyota T-IV) at around 30K miles, and 140K miles (GM T-IV)... Oil Analysis showed the Transmission was "Health". It was VERY tempting to use a "Multi-Vehicle" ATF for both those changes... Because Saturn/GM wanted MEGA $$ for their T-IV. (Toyota on the other hand was far more reasonable for its own T-IV which was/should be exactly the same)
Stuff like Mobil 1 ATF was (relatively) cheap but the HUGE list of "compatible" ATF Specs always gave me pause. I ONLY needed T-IV (and other owners also claimed/warned to only use T-IV)....
Which leads to my 2014 GMC with its "need" for Dexron VI... My local shop quoted a "flush" (wording of the service/machine?) with their "Multi-ATF". I decided to get my own Dexron VI (was surprised how hard it was to find/decide which "flavor" of Dexron VI "compatible" fluids I would/should have picked. Valvoline for example has its GM "certified" Dexron VI and then something like its "Extended Protection" which is really a Multi-ATF with "Dexron VI" compatibility but missing the simplicity of being exactly what is needed vs having to provide a very wide number of Spec Requirements...
Because my Terrain had gone "over" the recommended Interval (and I didn't provide my shop enough fluid for 3 drain/fills... More like just under 2) I'll be doing another drain/fill within 15K miles of the ATF drain/fill... This time I'll have enough for 3-4 drain/fills... Hopefully they won't need it all and I can return the unopened/unused fluid or save for next time...
I only have used the Dextron VI in the corolla's power steering because that's what the system calls for (dextron lll ) so far so good but glad you are paying attention to your fluids!
I made a mistake of having my 94 dodge caravan flushed at 94k miles. A couple of weeks later it won't go to 2nd gear. Cost me 3k for a reman trans.
Ugh, so sorry to hear that! I'm a drain and fill guy forever
UK viewer here. Got a 2015 1.3L Yaris CVT (No dipstick) 2 yrs ago at 88,000m with FTSH (Full Toyota Service History) us Brits tend do buy cars like that. It has now 97,000m,but 2yrs ago i drained & re filled twice in a week as i got a 5L bottle of genuine Toyota FE at £70, it takes 2.2L each drain. I just got another bottle & did just one drain & re fill but will keep the remainder oil in the house so no moisture will collect sitting in the garage. Will use the rest 2.2L next year,then do another 2x maybe in 5 yrs. The 1st drain was dark but no metal bits on the magnet,2nd drain was slightly cleaner but not much,3x drain a lot cleaner. I think my madness isn't over kill,what do you think? Family member recently got a 2006 Honda Jazz/Fit (83,000m) with a CVT & that is kaput! Had to use that Lucus gear oil, it did help & work better
I think you are smart for being aware of your transmission fluid and changing it before having problems. I know CVT are new and have special fluids so as long as you are maintaining it, I think that is half the battle. I never find metal in the drain plug, just blackish goo, which is probably the bands wearing out over time.
I have a 2003 dodge ram 1500. Transmission fluid never been changed but, I need to change the filter and the solenoid. I’m not sure if I should reuse the same fluid.
How many miles does it have on it?
I have heard that IF the fluid is still pink and isn't burnt, you can replace it with new, but if it's brown and burnt, maybe just screen it and put a little bit of it fresh fluid and maybe reuse like 60 to 70 percent of it. Then maybe a other 10k miles you do a drain and fill and keep reusing some of it and you'll eventually end up with newer fluid in there
@@dogshoe21 That’s smart! I’ll do that. Once I get it up and running, I’ll SuperChat for the advice. Thanks again!!!!
Thanks for the information, very useful!
Your welcome!
dang, mazda asks $17/qt at the dealer for their RZ fluid. Even going the rock auto route, after shipping, the $10/qt turned into $16/qt, so not much saved there, so the OEM fluid is more or less a no brainer. I plan to drain and fill the 4-5 qts that will drain out on the CX-5 w/the mazda specific fluid...just need time.
Mazda made some cool things like the rotary engine, but long term those also were likely to have oil problems and they weren't built to last 20 years / 250k miles. I would check Amazon for fluid prices as well, might get lucky
We just bought a clean used 2017 Mazda CX-5 and as a 58 year old OCD car guy who does all his own maintenance and repairs, this is true about the wron fluid being installed all to often by professional mechanics. The very first thing I do after buying a used vehicle is a complete fluid refresh including trans, awd transaxle and rear differential and when I did the trans, it came out red. Anyone who knows Mazda's knows to only us Mazda oe fluid in this case blue in color FZ fluid. The couple who had if before probably had their local yokal mechanic do it and he probably used Valvoline maxlife multi vehicle which in itself is a good fluid however it just doesn't say anywhere on the bottle or online information that it covers Mazda FZ spec. I used it on our 99 Lexus rx300 for 11 years in place of type 4 without issue, because it meets that older spec but not Mazda FZ.
People assume that all transmission fluid is the same or they trust the bottle which says "meets or exceeds manufacture" which is a load of garbage unfortunately.
@dogshoe21 So I 99.9% agree with what you said "meets or exceeds manufacture" However in researching the Aisin-Warner A140F/E four speed auto in my wife's lexus rx300 with a transmission rebuilder and on tons of Toyota forums and even the local lexus service manager, I found the recomended Toyota T-IV to be a mineral Dexron III with an added tourque converter lockup shudder control additive which Valvoline Maxlife meets. This Aisin-Warner supplied to Toyota A140 series four speed transmission goes back to the 90's Rav 4 so it was technically not built for the added weight or power of Lexus's first SUV RX 300 model so it seemed to be a shoe in without redeveloping a transmission specifically for Lexus's first mid size SUV. There were quite a few of early failures specific to the rx300, as early as 40k with many owners. I knew about this when we bought it and naively thought, it's a Toyota and it might be due to lack of service and/or trailer boat towing so I was diligent in fluid refreshes ever 30k - 40k. We bought it as a one owner in 2008 with 124k with a rather impecable service history by the owner with Lexus of Naperville. A few years went on and I did periodic drain
efills with the recomended Toyota T-IV automatic transmission fluid from the dealer again every 30k - 40k and what do you know, It failed at 260k. When I talked with the rebuilder he said it was almost always a planitary pin shearing failure which made sense because when it failed, it locked all four wheeIs solid as a rock and had to be dragged onto the flatbed kicking and screaming skidding tires and all. I'm a 58 year old car guy and I've never seen one fail like this before as it was normally the typical band slipping in older cars. Now I am not blaiming the OE Toyota ATF fluid, which is supplied by Mobil in the US and can also be found in the Mobil blue bottle as JSW 3309 spec. I also have no record of this transmission being replaced with the original owner under recall / warranty. So since the rebuild, I've been running Valvoline Maxlive in the red bottle although viscosity wise, it is leaning a bit closer to the current lower viscosity Toyota WS. Actually the blue bottle Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle is a closer match to Toyota T-IV viscosity mineral fluid but maxlife seems red seems to do well with all these older Toyota transmissions and when cold, fouth come s in a bit better it seems though adintintly this may be anecdotal. Both Maxlife and Import Vehicle are synthetic. Now this will be the only time you'll see me of the beaten OE fluid path. I will always recommend to others to go 100% OE transmission fluid from the dealer. Since we bought the 2017 Mazda CX-5 for my wife. The rx300 now has 403k miles on it and will serve as a winter\take the doe to the park backup. I just got through replacing both upstream air/fuel sensore, which lasted 403k. Wish these early Lexus's transmissions faired this well.
It's probably made similarly and with the same formulation, so it's good you do your research because alot of people don't. I've yet to have a transmission fail but I preferred driving a manual transmission my entire life until I got married and had to "upgrade" to automatic lol
@@dogshoe21 Good info here from you and 24hour. Still I think the fluids are mostly interchangeable keeping in mind the transmissions are not that different (CVTs excluded). Pretty clear that we are not folks who beat machinery so all our toys tend to outlast other less mechanically inclined people's.
@johns6816 the honda for sure is super picky with the tranny fluid. I wish it wasn't so but I know first had cause I did it and I sold the car because I wasn't sure if it would ever be back to normal
Just use Amsoil Signature series, whichever is called for by your vehicle. It is better than anything else. Period.
There's always and AMSoil person out there, welcome! My cousin swears by it, not sure about transmission fluid but if it works for you, I think report back 100k miles from now because perhaps it's better, but I've never tried it myself
How do video's come out reversed left to right so all text is backwards? e.g ATOYOT
I know I see that too... drives me crazy
Hey man great video. This is a lot of information that I will consider when I approach time to do a transmission service on my ram. I was already thinking that when I get to it, I will probably go to the dealership I bought it from and have them do it, they've been really good to me since I bought it.
Depends on how many miles you have on it, I would only let them touch my truck if i could watch them do it. I'm paranoid like that but I also have a big puddle in my garage cause some idiot former mechanic used air tools on my oil plug...