Did a little panasonic crt tv i found at the side of the road tonight , it sounded like it was coming on and i could feel the high voltage , but no picture , i couldnt find anything immedietly shorted or open, so with it being of that age i thought it could be a cap, i used the hot air station to heat the caps and it turned on , but had a fuzzy picture , so i took out a load of caps and tested them for capacitance, esr, and dc continuity , and found a couple of completely open 100 uf caps , tv working perfect now. Appriciate the confidence ive gained from watching 12 volt vids , youre unknowingly helping fix tvs from here over the pond
Thanks for the video, it fixed my lamp! I had bought two of this style switch/lamp socket (internal piece of your replacement part) off of eBay in early 2020 for $.10 a piece at auction for no good reason at all. I looked at them quickly when they arrived and did not see how they would be mechanically fastened to a fixture(no threaded holes or mounting lugs) and set them a side until your video showed how they were mounted today. I have taken lots of things apart, but never a traditional screw base light socket and switch an failed to recognize that the parts I have already have would be the ticket for the finicky switch in my bedside lamp.( It works if you get it in just the right position, been like that for over a year!) I paused the video at 2:36 an had my lamp working like new in a matter of minutes. I have enjoyed your more technical content, but this time the simple video was really helpful!
I was an electrical fitter in a power station before I retired and I’ve never seen a switch like that on a lamp this side of the pond. May encounter one when I’m in Canada next month on holiday!
I volunteer with the local "repair cafe", fixing small items for free (or for cost of parts only). We repair a lot of lamps! I am fortunate in that the swap-shop and E-waste section of our local dump allows me to scavenge old lamps and electrical parts so that oftentimes I will have exactly what I need on hand ---- sockets, switches, cords etc ---- for lamp repairs. 3-way sockets in particular are a bit pricey these days, $10 or so. New lamp sockets are definitely not made as well as older ones and most would not last long if used with hot-running incandescent bulbs. And although I have disassembled many switches and potentiometers in audio equipment to clean them, because simply spraying them wasn't sufficient, I've never taken an electrical lamp socket apart; but watching this, it occurs to me that the rivets could be drilled out, the threaded aluminum collar removed in one piece, the switch contacts polished manually, and the aluminum collar reattached with small bolts. If a close-enough replacement isn't available or the lamp is really an antique, this might not be a bad idea....
When I was a licensed telecom tech pulling miles of CAT5 on a big commercial job, an electrician said to his co-workers, "Look at those guys ---- their wires are so little they can cut them with scissors". My response was, "imagine what your lives would be like if every single cable you pulled had to be a home run from end-to-end with no splices or junction boxes allowed in between, and without exceeding four 90ﾟ turns". That left them speechless. PS, those scissors work great for cutting open lobster and crab shells!
In the mid-2000s when my mother's 30 yo matching living room lamp sockets wore out, I replaced the cords with extension cords because they're cheap. I also wanted to polarize the lamps because I grew up getting zaps off of all the antique unpolarized lamps we had. Yeah, you can just flip the plug, but I'd hate to find out the hard way they were reversed. I even started marking the plugs before they were switched out with polarized ones. These days, I'd even ground lamps with metal bases. I got heart disease in the family, and I'm not intimidated by putting a third prong on a lamp. Better awkward than dead.
The lamp socket itself is completely isolated from the metal base. The only way you're getting a shock is if the cardboard insert around the screw for the lamp where to fail it allow the screw base to make contact. now if it was polarized that would always be the neutral side but not polarized it could be hot and you could get zapped if that is later where to fail. But the lamp is old the cord is in good shape and it's not moved around. I would be more concerned about the metal key switch turning on the lamp because as you saw inside the switch assembly itself it's just a small plastic insulator that's isolating but even if you put a ground cord on if the switch failed the shaft could become live and since it doesn't touch the lamp base grounding wouldn't do anything
If the knob is fitted on the switch-shaft too tightly to be unscrewed by hand without the entire switch mechanism spinning, use miniature side-cutting wire cutters to grab the shaft. Works better than needle-nose pliers or hemostats. Incompatibility between old North-American SAE thread electrical parts and devices versus modern Metric foreign-made electrical parts and devices is a common problem nowadays.
Nice looking lamp! Interesting video! Side note: we had a drop in voltage to about 75-85 volts AC . Usually it's 120 volts. No LED or CFL lights were on. Except one. And the outside LED Security light. It was a power company issue. Lucky it came back on at full power an hour later. (An hour ago) It's weird one LED bulb inside the house stayed lit, and it was fairly bright! The other was just as bright. The rest of the house was dark. The fan ran slower. The LED clock was so dim I could barely read it in the dark. I also turned off anything with a compressor.(coolers, A/C) I read low voltage can make them overheat and burn out.
@@TD75 yes, the only one I bought that was dimmable. I saved the original box because it was my first household LED lamp. Bought in 2017, started using in 2020. It's a Sylvania Ultra LED. 60W Equiv. 9 watts rating.
Nah, if electricity get you at 120V it won't be - a-rah-rah-rah ... it will be just - ugh, and then f...., but if 230V get you, it will be uaaah and throw the lamp to the wall and the first thought will be - my batteries recharged too fast from that donkey kick. :D
Interesting. Sadly, the older hardware stores are few and far between in the UK. The spring is making contact to the rotating contact and also partially to the shaft of the switch. Is the handle also entirely metal, or has a plastic inner? I ask because the replacement socket appeared to have a plastic handle.
The spring is only contacting the plastic insert not the conductor. New one also had metal shaft. Had a plastic knob that went in garbage for the original key style to be fit on.
Keeping it original also the house is acient. The sockets are not all polarized. How do I know, because i have changed a few out for her to plug in modern equipment with polarized plugs and filed down a few table lamps so they work on the old 1950s sockets.
Comment got deleted. Maybe mistaken for a link. Big Clive tears down and analyzes led lights etc. He explains it better with schematics than I can in words. LEDs fail now too as they are run hard without much heatsinking.
Led lamps are driven hard to get maximum light. Now that many are down to a buck or 2 I am not too worried about them failing after a few years. When they were 20 a bulb it was much more annoying when they failed.
I've done this before to change from old socket to new socket on each lamp fixtures at home, and I can buy them sockets brand new and get it to install to the lamp fixture and get it going again. And I rather leave the original cover back on for the sockets to look like it is original to the fixtures, and yeah, Chinese companies names has a funny name on it, and I rather not put the new cover on the socket and thinking it was a modern fixtures are made in China and will fail down the road.
I'm quite disappointed, You didn't use superglue to fix that key on to the shaft ha ha :-D Leg pulling dave 😀 Yep the china crap will die early, but it will do for now.
We are not used to seeing hopeless people in this neighborhood. Maybe in downtown Vancouver East side but not out here at least not until now. This is a fairly affluent area where I live so the residents won't put up with this for very long.
I am unsubscribing to your extra long videos and ranting. Your electronic experience is wonderful but making money from long unnecessary videos is not tolerable to me, This lamp job would take me 10 minutes to do.
I do what people want. Most want to see the tear down of the broken part. That's why there is a fast forward button. When I cut short videos people complain it is too short. Don't let the door hit you on the ass on the way out. You won't be missed.
Did a little panasonic crt tv i found at the side of the road tonight , it sounded like it was coming on and i could feel the high voltage , but no picture , i couldnt find anything immedietly shorted or open, so with it being of that age i thought it could be a cap, i used the hot air station to heat the caps and it turned on , but had a fuzzy picture , so i took out a load of caps and tested them for capacitance, esr, and dc continuity , and found a couple of completely open 100 uf caps , tv working perfect now. Appriciate the confidence ive gained from watching 12 volt vids , youre unknowingly helping fix tvs from here over the pond
Thanks for the video, it fixed my lamp!
I had bought two of this style switch/lamp socket (internal piece of your replacement part) off of eBay in early 2020 for $.10 a piece at auction for no good reason at all.
I looked at them quickly when they arrived and did not see how they would be mechanically fastened to a fixture(no threaded holes or mounting lugs) and set them a side until your video showed how they were mounted today.
I have taken lots of things apart, but never a traditional screw base light socket and switch an failed to recognize that the parts I have already have would be the ticket for the finicky switch in my bedside lamp.( It works if you get it in just the right position, been like that for over a year!)
I paused the video at 2:36 an had my lamp working like new in a matter of minutes.
I have enjoyed your more technical content, but this time the simple video was really helpful!
I was an electrical fitter in a power station before I retired and I’ve never seen a switch like that on a lamp this side of the pond. May encounter one when I’m in Canada next month on holiday!
I volunteer with the local "repair cafe", fixing small items for free (or for cost of parts only). We repair a lot of lamps! I am fortunate in that the swap-shop and E-waste section of our local dump allows me to scavenge old lamps and electrical parts so that oftentimes I will have exactly what I need on hand ---- sockets, switches, cords etc ---- for lamp repairs. 3-way sockets in particular are a bit pricey these days, $10 or so. New lamp sockets are definitely not made as well as older ones and most would not last long if used with hot-running incandescent bulbs. And although I have disassembled many switches and potentiometers in audio equipment to clean them, because simply spraying them wasn't sufficient, I've never taken an electrical lamp socket apart; but watching this, it occurs to me that the rivets could be drilled out, the threaded aluminum collar removed in one piece, the switch contacts polished manually, and the aluminum collar reattached with small bolts. If a close-enough replacement isn't available or the lamp is really an antique, this might not be a bad idea....
When I was a licensed telecom tech pulling miles of CAT5 on a big commercial job, an electrician said to his co-workers, "Look at those guys ---- their wires are so little they can cut them with scissors". My response was, "imagine what your lives would be like if every single cable you pulled had to be a home run from end-to-end with no splices or junction boxes allowed in between, and without exceeding four 90ﾟ turns". That left them speechless. PS, those scissors work great for cutting open lobster and crab shells!
I bet they do. They cut your fingers just as well if not careful.
In the mid-2000s when my mother's 30 yo matching living room lamp sockets wore out, I replaced the cords with extension cords because they're cheap. I also wanted to polarize the lamps because I grew up getting zaps off of all the antique unpolarized lamps we had. Yeah, you can just flip the plug, but I'd hate to find out the hard way they were reversed. I even started marking the plugs before they were switched out with polarized ones. These days, I'd even ground lamps with metal bases. I got heart disease in the family, and I'm not intimidated by putting a third prong on a lamp. Better awkward than dead.
The lamp socket itself is completely isolated from the metal base. The only way you're getting a shock is if the cardboard insert around the screw for the lamp where to fail it allow the screw base to make contact. now if it was polarized that would always be the neutral side but not polarized it could be hot and you could get zapped if that is later where to fail. But the lamp is old the cord is in good shape and it's not moved around. I would be more concerned about the metal key switch turning on the lamp because as you saw inside the switch assembly itself it's just a small plastic insulator that's isolating but even if you put a ground cord on if the switch failed the shaft could become live and since it doesn't touch the lamp base grounding wouldn't do anything
I've noticed some import lamps are super gluing the sockets so the socket won't come apart unless you use a heat gun to soften the glue.
If the knob is fitted on the switch-shaft too tightly to be unscrewed by hand without the entire switch mechanism spinning, use miniature side-cutting wire cutters to grab the shaft. Works better than needle-nose pliers or hemostats. Incompatibility between old North-American SAE thread electrical parts and devices versus modern Metric foreign-made electrical parts and devices is a common problem nowadays.
Nice looking lamp! Interesting video!
Side note: we had a drop in voltage to about 75-85 volts AC . Usually it's 120 volts. No LED or CFL lights were on. Except one. And the outside LED Security light. It was a power company issue.
Lucky it came back on at full power an hour later. (An hour ago) It's weird one LED bulb inside the house stayed lit, and it was fairly bright! The other was just as bright.
The rest of the house was dark. The fan ran slower. The LED clock was so dim I could barely read it in the dark.
I also turned off anything with a compressor.(coolers, A/C) I read low voltage can make them overheat and burn out.
It has a glass chimney that goes over the bulb then a glass shade. Is very old.
Low voltage can stall compressor and burn them out.
@@TD75 yes, the only one I bought that was dimmable. I saved the original box because it was my first household LED lamp. Bought in 2017, started using in 2020. It's a Sylvania Ultra LED. 60W Equiv. 9 watts rating.
@@TD75 that's a little extreme but works.
Some motors can also overheat on low line voltage.
Nah, if electricity get you at 120V it won't be - a-rah-rah-rah ... it will be just - ugh, and then f...., but if 230V get you, it will be uaaah and throw the lamp to the wall and the first thought will be - my batteries recharged too fast from that donkey kick. :D
Interesting. Sadly, the older hardware stores are few and far between in the UK. The spring is making contact to the rotating contact and also partially to the shaft of the switch. Is the handle also entirely metal, or has a plastic inner? I ask because the replacement socket appeared to have a plastic handle.
The spring is only contacting the plastic insert not the conductor. New one also had metal shaft. Had a plastic knob that went in garbage for the original key style to be fit on.
@@12voltvids Ah! makes sense
I can't help but wonder if some nutrol or deoxit would have fixed it?
Dave, did you think of replacing the plug with a polarized one or were you just trying to keep it as original as possible?
Keeping it original also the house is acient. The sockets are not all polarized. How do I know, because i have changed a few out for her to plug in modern equipment with polarized plugs and filed down a few table lamps so they work on the old 1950s sockets.
friend taking the opportunity, is there any way to make a led lamp last longer, 2 times its life with some modification
It not the led that usually fails. It is the AC to Dc circuit in the bulb that goes out. Led's work on dc voltage.
Comment got deleted. Maybe mistaken for a link. Big Clive tears down and analyzes led lights etc. He explains it better with schematics than I can in words. LEDs fail now too as they are run hard without much heatsinking.
Led lamps are driven hard to get maximum light. Now that many are down to a buck or 2 I am not too worried about them failing after a few years. When they were 20 a bulb it was much more annoying when they failed.
I've done this before to change from old socket to new socket on each lamp fixtures at home, and I can buy them sockets brand new and get it to install to the lamp fixture and get it going again.
And I rather leave the original cover back on for the sockets to look like it is original to the fixtures, and yeah, Chinese companies names has a funny name on it, and I rather not put the new cover on the socket and thinking it was a modern fixtures are made in China and will fail down the road.
I left the old brass on it so it looks original
Right off the bat it looks like there’s an exposed wire beside causing it to short. I hope I’m right.
No exposed wire no short.
I'm quite disappointed, You didn't use superglue to fix that key on to the shaft ha ha :-D
Leg pulling dave 😀
Yep the china crap will die early, but it will do for now.
I'm sure it will outlive the owner who's well into her 90s
Homeless guy does the does a same thing with a shopping trolley in Palmerston North New Zealand who went down our street
We are not used to seeing hopeless people in this neighborhood. Maybe in downtown Vancouver East side but not out here at least not until now. This is a fairly affluent area where I live so the residents won't put up with this for very long.
@@12voltvids we're like a 10 minute walk from the city as I don't drive and I use buses to go to work or bike
I am unsubscribing to your extra long videos and ranting. Your electronic experience is wonderful but making money from long unnecessary videos is not tolerable to me, This lamp job would take me 10 minutes to do.
I do what people want. Most want to see the tear down of the broken part. That's why there is a fast forward button. When I cut short videos people complain it is too short.
Don't let the door hit you on the ass on the way out. You won't be missed.
@@12voltvids mehh i do like the details.... i like to see how other peeps do what they do to brush up on my skills ;-)
and yes i reply with reason ;-)
Really? I kind of like a little story while I watch the work. It's relaxing to watch.
@@robertgaines-tulsa can't please everyone. Well at least he won't be bitching about video length anymore.