A couple of things here; oil is not only settled in the engine but also the gearbox. Secondly, there are no magnetos in a 912ULS engine but two Capacitive Discharge Ignition units and the engine must spin at a little over 200 RPM to get enough juice from the magnetic pickoffs on the flywheel to get any spark. You can't hand prop a 912 (unless you can get it spinning that fast). The other advantage to this is that the action of pulling the prop through also causes the mechanical fuel pump to put a little pressure in the fuel lines, which can show you any fuel line leaks that you might not otherwise see.
Not unless he's seriously modified the engine from its original configuration. I do not believe its possible to get there with a stock 912. Video can show you anything; especially these days, just seeing something on video doesn't make it truth. Do you own or fly one of these engines? In the RV-12, for instance, the alternative to the hand pull throughs is to leave the ignition off and hit the starter for 10 seconds. The engine doesn't start...and it won't until you turn on the ignition and get current to the CDI's.
Rv12 owner here, clearing up some of the comments, yes always check key is out and lanes are off, however rotax has a fail safe where since the engine is geared it is not possible for the engine to start until it reaches high rpm, somewhere around 200-400rpm which, for anyone who’s burped a rotax knows how much effort it takes just to turn the prop. Great video though!
@@tyjohnson7428before every flight. They use oil like any airplane engine. FYI Rotax suck btw. Buy one and you will regret it until you sell it to the next sucker
@@manifestgtr So many design and engineering shortfalls, that lead to a engine that is questionably safe and not what I view as dependable. most a&ps will not work on them. There’s almost no one who is rotax certified in my state. Most seasoned a&ps I have spoken to who know rotax and Lyc Continental say Rotax are more difficult and expensive to maintain and require constant adjustments and maintenance. (This is 100% true from my ownership experience) You also can’t rebuild them over and over as you can the normal air cooled engines. Don’t even get me started on factory support, there is almost zero factory support. Parts prices for what your getting are a rip off.
Informative video, as I always wondered about this. All that work just to check the oil level makes me even happier with the old school 0-200D in my new Vashon Ranger. The Connie doesn't have indigestion & is better sounding with it's equal length header exhaust. I jest a bit as I'm certain the Rotax is a fine engine with particular modern advantages, just not for me.
Might be worth mentioning that prior to this procedure one should always confirm that the keys are out, the magnetos are off, and the fuel is off to avoid accidental engine startup. I'm not sure what the procedure is for electronic ignition but I imagine a similar fail-safe would be required
I'm the background Is the Tiger I have been Dreaming and wishing on. Please O please let me win that Airplane!!!!! On a different note the paint on the rv is super nice!!!!
I got told to do it from the back of the propeller. If it kicks and starts then it wont run into you. Of course you should always make sure the mags are grounded and the Master is off before you try...
As a general rule, never turn a prop with vital parts of your body (ie. your head) within the arc of rotation. And stand behind the prop so that if it started one day (I know the rotax won’t but impulse coupling engines could) the aircraft and prop are moving away from you. Lovely video nonetheless. Thanks.
Can you hand prop a Rotax? It would seem that it is possible. The other thing I'd suggest is keep your body out of the prop arc. ua-cam.com/video/-JUBrHYsh4E/v-deo.html
Always check magnetos are off and keys are out, and dont fill up with oil before burping first! Sometimes you’ll have to do this procedure with hot engine (particularly when you rent an airplane and you dont know if the previous pilot had checked oil correctly) as part of pre-flight check
Run don’t walk from Rotax. Owned one for years and I’ve come to see it as a very sensitive, hard to fix, glorified snowmobile engine. Can’t find hardly anyone to work on a rotax. Parts prices are more than a real ac engine. $800 for a shitty motorcycle radiator? Really? $1600 for a muffler? Overheating for no apparent reason. Built in design flaws that lead to exhaust leaks And more and more. Virtually any A&P worth their salt will tell you to avoid Rotax at all costs
Sigh rotax… ugh. Low power, high cost, hardly anyone to work on them, terrible factory support. Parts prices are more than continental and Lyc. Wish I never bought one
Evidence, please. There are many thousands of Rotax 900-series engines in the field and they have excellent reliability. TBOs have steadily risen since their introduction. New engines like the 912iS in this RV-12 have a 2,000 hour TBO and with proper maintenance have no trouble reaching that number. Service centers like LEAF and Lockwood have stated that they see very little wear inside engines they tear down, including those used in flight school aircraft that may not always be operated properly. Operators of the 912iS report fuel burn rates better than specified by Rotax; in many cases well below 4 gph at cruise power settings. The fact is that Rotax makes an excellent range of engines that have high power-to-weight ratios, excellent reliability and outstanding operating economy. You're free to own and fly what you like, but you're misinformed about Rotax engines.
@@FlyingShotsmanrotax are a modified snowmobile engine using lots of parts from motorcycles. Carbs, ignitions, radiators, etc. difficult to find someone qualified to work on them. They have tons of design flaws that will mean you won’t fly nearly as much as a cont or Lyc. Issues crop up all the time with these engines, they are very sensitive. And they are hard to fix, lots of tinkering to get them to work right. Buy one and you will regret it sooner or later
thanks! this is much so easier than picking it up and patting it on the back :)
Lmao
A couple of things here; oil is not only settled in the engine but also the gearbox. Secondly, there are no magnetos in a 912ULS engine but two Capacitive Discharge Ignition units and the engine must spin at a little over 200 RPM to get enough juice from the magnetic pickoffs on the flywheel to get any spark. You can't hand prop a 912 (unless you can get it spinning that fast). The other advantage to this is that the action of pulling the prop through also causes the mechanical fuel pump to put a little pressure in the fuel lines, which can show you any fuel line leaks that you might not otherwise see.
Sorry but there’s a video of how to hand prop a 912. The guy just pulls the blade and it starts like any other aircraft engine.
Not unless he's seriously modified the engine from its original configuration. I do not believe its possible to get there with a stock 912. Video can show you anything; especially these days, just seeing something on video doesn't make it truth. Do you own or fly one of these engines? In the RV-12, for instance, the alternative to the hand pull throughs is to leave the ignition off and hit the starter for 10 seconds. The engine doesn't start...and it won't until you turn on the ignition and get current to the CDI's.
Someone told me just keep turning until the toilet flushes 😂😂
Rv12 owner here, clearing up some of the comments, yes always check key is out and lanes are off, however rotax has a fail safe where since the engine is geared it is not possible for the engine to start until it reaches high rpm, somewhere around 200-400rpm which, for anyone who’s burped a rotax knows how much effort it takes just to turn the prop. Great video though!
Would you do this before every flight or only when checking oil if for example flying multiple flights a day ?
@@tyjohnson7428before every flight. They use oil like any airplane engine.
FYI Rotax suck btw. Buy one and you will regret it until you sell it to the next sucker
@@nickr5658
Why do they suck? The sensors are a little cheap and don’t love high heat situations but that’s the biggest issue I’ve noticed…
@@manifestgtr So many design and engineering shortfalls, that lead to a engine that is questionably safe and not what I view as dependable. most a&ps will not work on them. There’s almost no one who is rotax certified in my state. Most seasoned a&ps I have spoken to who know rotax and Lyc Continental say Rotax are more difficult and expensive to maintain and require constant adjustments and maintenance. (This is 100% true from my ownership experience) You also can’t rebuild them over and over as you can the normal air cooled engines.
Don’t even get me started on factory support, there is almost zero factory support. Parts prices for what your getting are a rip off.
At least, as a light sport parent, you don't have to do this after every feeding.
Lmbo
am assuming thats with the cap off to hear it
But did the engine say excuse me ??? LOL. Thanks for the info
I know it’s common sense but you should have reminded people to always ensure that the ignition is off before hand rotating the prop.
Informative video, as I always wondered about this. All that work just to check the oil level makes me even happier with the old school 0-200D in my new Vashon Ranger. The Connie doesn't have indigestion & is better sounding with it's equal length header exhaust. I jest a bit as I'm certain the Rotax is a fine engine with particular modern advantages, just not for me.
The rotax is a terrible engine. Leaves you wondering if it will Overheat or fail on almost every flight… not kidding unfortunately
No reason. Rotax has to magnetos OFF and there is another safety feature built in, ignition is not working under 400 RPM.
Might be worth mentioning that prior to this procedure one should always confirm that the keys are out, the magnetos are off, and the fuel is off to avoid accidental engine startup.
I'm not sure what the procedure is for electronic ignition but I imagine a similar fail-safe would be required
agree and to remove the oil cap prior
you can not start a rotax by hand propping
@@waynekimm.ngi.5696
If the ignition is on and the engine has magnetos you will be able to start a rotax engine by rotation of the propeller
.. Assuming the magneto switches are in the on position
rotax will not fire until 220 rpm , because it’s geared that’s 60 rpm’s at the prop don’t think you can hand prop that fast
I'm the background Is the Tiger I have been Dreaming and wishing on. Please O please let me win that Airplane!!!!! On a different note the paint on the rv is super nice!!!!
Give it a beer so it will Burp easier...😅
I got told to do it from the back of the propeller. If it kicks and starts then it wont run into you. Of course you should always make sure the mags are grounded and the Master is off before you try...
I see the Tiger in the background
As a general rule, never turn a prop with vital parts of your body (ie. your head) within the arc of rotation. And stand behind the prop so that if it started one day (I know the rotax won’t but impulse coupling engines could) the aircraft and prop are moving away from you. Lovely video nonetheless. Thanks.
You should actually do two 'gurgles' or 'burps' to get an even more accurate reading.
Can you hand prop a Rotax? It would seem that it is possible. The other thing I'd suggest is keep your body out of the prop arc. ua-cam.com/video/-JUBrHYsh4E/v-deo.html
Note; That is a very old video and that 80hp 912 have been out of production for a while.
Always check magnetos are off and keys are out, and dont fill up with oil before burping first! Sometimes you’ll have to do this procedure with hot engine (particularly when you rent an airplane and you dont know if the previous pilot had checked oil correctly) as part of pre-flight check
No mags and the engine needs to be at 400rpm for the ignition to come alaive.
We get thought to burp in 4 times…
Run don’t walk from Rotax. Owned one for years and I’ve come to see it as a very sensitive, hard to fix, glorified snowmobile engine.
Can’t find hardly anyone to work on a rotax. Parts prices are more than a real ac engine. $800 for a shitty motorcycle radiator? Really?
$1600 for a muffler?
Overheating for no apparent reason. Built in design flaws that lead to exhaust leaks
And more and more.
Virtually any A&P worth their salt will tell you to avoid Rotax at all costs
Sigh rotax… ugh. Low power, high cost, hardly anyone to work on them, terrible factory support. Parts prices are more than continental and Lyc. Wish I never bought one
You gotta be kidding me! If that engine pops she loses her fingertips ….. how about turning it over with a starter with the fuel off?
Rotax won’t start till at least 400 rpm, not possible by human hands unless u are magical hahaha
Someone Should Teach That "Novic" How To Handle a Prop,,, "Just Like a "Gun",,, Always Loaded... She Is a Pure, and Rank Amateur,,,,
I would not own or fly any plane that has a Rotax engine. They are overstressed and not reliable.
Evidence, please. There are many thousands of Rotax 900-series engines in the field and they have excellent reliability. TBOs have steadily risen since their introduction. New engines like the 912iS in this RV-12 have a 2,000 hour TBO and with proper maintenance have no trouble reaching that number. Service centers like LEAF and Lockwood have stated that they see very little wear inside engines they tear down, including those used in flight school aircraft that may not always be operated properly. Operators of the 912iS report fuel burn rates better than specified by Rotax; in many cases well below 4 gph at cruise power settings. The fact is that Rotax makes an excellent range of engines that have high power-to-weight ratios, excellent reliability and outstanding operating economy. You're free to own and fly what you like, but you're misinformed about Rotax engines.
@@FlyingShotsman No worroes, he has no evidence only an opinion. And a bad one at that.
@@FlyingShotsmanrotax are a modified snowmobile engine using lots of parts from motorcycles. Carbs, ignitions, radiators, etc.
difficult to find someone qualified to work on them. They have tons of design flaws that will mean you won’t fly nearly as much as a cont or Lyc.
Issues crop up all the time with these engines, they are very sensitive. And they are hard to fix, lots of tinkering to get them to work right.
Buy one and you will regret it sooner or later
@@FlyingShotsmando you own a rotax? I own a rotax and can confirm he is right.