When I first learned of Fix-it-sticks I said no way am I paying that, then I looked at the competition and how everything else was priced 30 to 50 percent more. I ate crow and bought my sticks. I am happy and humble!
one tip, when torqueing a part that has multiple nuts/bolts, tighten evenly, one then it's mate, to 1/4 or 1/2 final torque, then final this evens the load on the part, mating it evenly, or not adding a twisting force, to the part, which can cause problems later on. ( my dad is a motor mechanic, and this is how we do cylinder heads on cars, etc.- these have torque sheets, which say which bolts first, second, and what torque to do (one step, two, or one step + angle, etc.)).
Fix it sticks have changed the way I do things. I have a large set at home for the bench, and I have a smaller set that stay s in my range bag. I know its overkill, but I can't ever remember to take it with me or take it out. I haven't had an issue with scope mounts or rings after using these, even after a full day of rain on the firing line. which will do strange things to rings, mounts and stocks for that matter! I know this is an old video , but 100% agree, the best of the best. thanks John !!!
I bought a couple of used Utica torque drivers off Ebay and they are adjustable and do click. I also have had no problems to use it to loosen fasteners. One is for 6-36 inch lbs the other is up to 100 inch lbs They may have been for torquing anything that requires precision torquing hex or Torx bolts/screws. New they expensive. Some will come with a label showing who calibrated it from the factory. I just got the same kit you have and had to search on YT on how to use it, thanks! I also bought a Borka for a fixed not adjustable torque value of 62 inch lbs specifically made for the FN Scar barrel bolts.
I was just a few hours from ordering the Wheeler FAT sticks. While a good product I'm sure, it has only 15, 25, 35, 45 & 65. Due to your video, I bought the Fixit Stick kit. It was only $35 more for where I bought it. Even though no click, I'm sure it's easy to get several more numbers than those listed simply by dividing the lines. Also looking forward to having the tool to loosen and slightly tighen without touching the torque driver. Looking forward to them. Thanks for the video.
The "all in one" is different than the dedicated sockets in that the user has to control stopping (like any normal tq wrench) , the sockets will just de-clutch/free spin at the limit. Just something to keep in mind. SO the sockets can be used in general purpose application in a powered driver. Useful when setting a lot of fasteners in a row.. production scenarios etc.
@@FClassJohn Weird the Chapman bits don't work on this, is there something special about the 1/4 torque driver? My Chapman bits work on other 1/4 drivers fine.
@@tdiddi74 I'm trying to remember as I made that video a while ago and the set ended up with a friend. If I remember right it was the chapman bits that were the problem for some reason, I think they wouldn't stay in or something.
Never use a torque wrench/screwdriver to loosen as this will screw up the calibration. Also, store it at the lowest setting which is usually the lowest setting on the tool. The manual should indicate this. I don't own the Wheeler but I have many torque wrenches and every one indicate the setting to store it. I'm in the market for such a tool and appreciate the review.
Glad you like the review. You may also want to check out a three-part series I did on a whole bunch of other torque wrenches and torque set ups that is more comprehensive.
In fairness, he didn't. He used the standard parts of the tool without the limiter to unscrew the scope. He only used the limiter when applying torque.
Glad it was helpful. I know in the beginning I always looked at these but couldn't figure out why people loved them so much until I bought one and played with it. I wouldn't give it up now.
@@FClassJohn Yeah I have always used a fat wrench. But it fell apart. I did not know how to set the fix-it stick to the required torque. After watching your video I realized that you don't set it to any torque, just wind it and it goes to the desired torque setting.
to get a specific torque, say 50 for example, is it just as simple as stopping between 45 and 55? I know it sounds dumb but I don't mind asking! Great video.
Yes - and not dumb. That is how he got 20lb on his scope rings. The lines are at 15 - 65 in 10 llb increments. As you said, dividing 15 and 25 in half would give you the 20. Another thing I like is that you can tighten or loosen using the tool without the torque piece. With my Fat Wrench, I needed to grab my old Chapman set in addition. Yet another thing I like is that when you reach your torque and let go, it automatically goes back to 0. With the Fat Wrench (a nice tool), you need to unscrew it back down to 0.
Really shouldn't use a torque wrenches to loosen fasteners.. that's where your standard drivers come in. I like how SOTAR uses the Fat wrench to check gas key fasteners torque spec & staking, if the fix it sticks are capable of doing that I may be willing fork up the extra dough otherwise I think the Fat wrench will suffice for my duties.
In fairness, he didn't. He used the standard parts of the tool without the limiter to unscrew the scope. He only used the limiter when applying torque.
To be fair the Leupold is a large tube so the clarity and brightness is better for my eyes. The Kahles tends to have a little ‘fog’ under certain conditions which I don’t see with the Leupold. Problem is I am always wishing for more magnification on the Leupold. But at the end of the day they’re both great scopes.
Yep, I have these sticks and the Fat Wrench which I had first which is a good tool too. Changing torques is a lot of turning the base and if going above about 45, it gets tight and at the end, you need to unscrew it to 0. With these, they spring back to 0 and the T-Wrench for loosing or slightly tightening before torquing is great and a real time saver.
In fairness, he didn't. He used the standard parts of the tool without the limiter to unscrew the scope. He only used the limiter when applying torque.
That is better than Chinese. As a woodworker, I bought "Grizzly" equipment which was all made in Taiwan at that time. Now, I understand it's made in China and understand the quality has gone down.
Try using it in such a way that people can actually see what you are doing will add to the viewer experience. Maybe you could review your video before posting, Thank you.
When I first learned of Fix-it-sticks I said no way am I paying that, then I looked at the competition and how everything else was priced 30 to 50 percent more. I ate crow and bought my sticks. I am happy and humble!
Yeah it’s a good balance on price and I love the functionality.
one tip, when torqueing a part that has multiple nuts/bolts, tighten evenly, one then it's mate, to 1/4 or 1/2 final torque, then final this evens the load on the part, mating it evenly, or not adding a twisting force, to the part, which can cause problems later on. ( my dad is a motor mechanic, and this is how we do cylinder heads on cars, etc.- these have torque sheets, which say which bolts first, second, and what torque to do (one step, two, or one step + angle, etc.)).
Thank you for demonstrating the torque measuring process on the FixIt Sticks
Fix it sticks have changed the way I do things. I have a large set at home for the bench, and I have a smaller set that stay s in my range bag. I know its overkill, but I can't ever remember to take it with me or take it out. I haven't had an issue with scope mounts or rings after using these, even after a full day of rain on the firing line. which will do strange things to rings, mounts and stocks for that matter! I know this is an old video , but 100% agree, the best of the best. thanks John !!!
I bought a couple of used Utica torque drivers off Ebay and they are adjustable and do click. I also have had no problems to use it to loosen fasteners. One is for 6-36 inch lbs the other is up to 100 inch lbs They may have been for torquing anything that requires precision torquing hex or Torx bolts/screws. New they expensive. Some will come with a label showing who calibrated it from the factory. I just got the same kit you have and had to search on YT on how to use it, thanks! I also bought a Borka for a fixed not adjustable torque value of 62 inch lbs specifically made for the FN Scar barrel bolts.
Good Thing he apologized for saying foot pounds instead of inch pounds. I Got confused for a moment. Nice video
Just got 1 for Christmas from a fellow shooter. So cool. Thanks for the vid. Merry Christmas
I was just a few hours from ordering the Wheeler FAT sticks. While a good product I'm sure, it has only 15, 25, 35, 45 & 65. Due to your video, I bought the Fixit Stick kit. It was only $35 more for where I bought it. Even though no click, I'm sure it's easy to get several more numbers than those listed simply by dividing the lines. Also looking forward to having the tool to loosen and slightly tighen without touching the torque driver. Looking forward to them. Thanks for the video.
The "all in one" is different than the dedicated sockets in that the user has to control stopping (like any normal tq wrench) , the sockets will just de-clutch/free spin at the limit. Just something to keep in mind. SO the sockets can be used in general purpose application in a powered driver. Useful when setting a lot of fasteners in a row.. production scenarios etc.
Great video. I’m getting one now. Thanks
Stay in camera frame Sparky! 👍
I just bought mine , love them.
Awesome!
Thanks for the note on Chapman bits not working with it.
Absolutely. For me that was a bummer because I have Chapman sets.
@@FClassJohn Weird the Chapman bits don't work on this, is there something special about the 1/4 torque driver? My Chapman bits work on other 1/4 drivers fine.
@@tdiddi74 I'm trying to remember as I made that video a while ago and the set ended up with a friend. If I remember right it was the chapman bits that were the problem for some reason, I think they wouldn't stay in or something.
Thank you for the video! I got a set of Fix-it-sticks. Work great! Question: What is the make/availability of the "400 bit" sets for extras?
Never use a torque wrench/screwdriver to loosen as this will screw up the calibration. Also, store it at the lowest setting which is usually the lowest setting on the tool. The manual should indicate this. I don't own the Wheeler but I have many torque wrenches and every one indicate the setting to store it. I'm in the market for such a tool and appreciate the review.
Glad you like the review. You may also want to check out a three-part series I did on a whole bunch of other torque wrenches and torque set ups that is more comprehensive.
@@FClassJohn I ended up going with the Layman Pro Drive. Seems to be a nice torque wrench for inch lbs.
In fairness, he didn't. He used the standard parts of the tool without the limiter to unscrew the scope. He only used the limiter when applying torque.
Thank you Sir very helpful 👍💯
Thank you
Thanks mate did not know how to use it.
Glad it was helpful. I know in the beginning I always looked at these but couldn't figure out why people loved them so much until I bought one and played with it. I wouldn't give it up now.
@@FClassJohn Yeah I have always used a fat wrench. But it fell apart. I did not know how to set the fix-it stick to the required torque. After watching your video I realized that you don't set it to any torque, just wind it and it goes to the desired torque setting.
to get a specific torque, say 50 for example, is it just as simple as stopping between 45 and 55? I know it sounds dumb but I don't mind asking!
Great video.
Yes - and not dumb. That is how he got 20lb on his scope rings. The lines are at 15 - 65 in 10 llb increments. As you said, dividing 15 and 25 in half would give you the 20. Another thing I like is that you can tighten or loosen using the tool without the torque piece. With my Fat Wrench, I needed to grab my old Chapman set in addition. Yet another thing I like is that when you reach your torque and let go, it automatically goes back to 0. With the Fat Wrench (a nice tool), you need to unscrew it back down to 0.
Really shouldn't use a torque wrenches to loosen fasteners.. that's where your standard drivers come in.
I like how SOTAR uses the Fat wrench to check gas key fasteners torque spec & staking, if the fix it sticks are capable of doing that I may be willing fork up the extra dough otherwise I think the Fat wrench will suffice for my duties.
In fairness, he didn't. He used the standard parts of the tool without the limiter to unscrew the scope. He only used the limiter when applying torque.
How was that Leupold compared to that Kahlas? Which has better glass ?
To be fair the Leupold is a large tube so the clarity and brightness is better for my eyes. The Kahles tends to have a little ‘fog’ under certain conditions which I don’t see with the Leupold. Problem is I am always wishing for more magnification on the Leupold. But at the end of the day they’re both great scopes.
That looks so much easier than using a Fat Wrench.
Yep, I have these sticks and the Fat Wrench which I had first which is a good tool too. Changing torques is a lot of turning the base and if going above about 45, it gets tight and at the end, you need to unscrew it to 0. With these, they spring back to 0 and the T-Wrench for loosing or slightly tightening before torquing is great and a real time saver.
It would be better if the shaft of the device had a grove machined into it so it can lock into a collet collar
How is the quality of the provided bits that come with it?
I’ve been really happy with the quality but I also don’t do much with them that abuses them.
Anddddd I’m sold
Is your scope level???????
It’s probably the camera angle but yeah it was level on there.
65 foot pounds is a lot of torque!!...I think you meant 65 inch pounds. Many people get this wrong and break stuff.
I realize this video is 3 years old but you're not supposed to use a torque tool to loosen fasteners so your first point is mute
5:03
You are not supposed to loosen screws with torque devices.
In fairness, he didn't. He used the standard parts of the tool without the limiter to unscrew the scope. He only used the limiter when applying torque.
I don't think they know enough Chinese to do a Logo on the bag.
That is NOT a “torque limiter” - you called it that at least twice, so wanted to correct the misinformation.
Yes that was my bad and you're correct. Their single value units are limiters, this is a driver.
If you want 28 in/lb have to eye ball it between 25 and 35 in/lb? no thanks.
I’m new to all of this, I’ve gotta ask how important is this ? Like being accurate down to the exact in/lb?
inch pounds not foot pounds
Doh! 😩 sorry about that. Yeah inch pounds. I have the worst habit of saying foot pounds for some reason.
65 ftlbs? Goddamn, I guess you meant Inch pounds ;)
Yes, sorry. 🤣
Expensive and made in Taiwan
That is better than Chinese. As a woodworker, I bought "Grizzly" equipment which was all made in Taiwan at that time. Now, I understand it's made in China and understand the quality has gone down.
Try using it in such a way that people can actually see what you are doing will add to the viewer experience. Maybe you could review your video before posting, Thank you.