Good video. As a bit of info for you and your subscribers, I've noticed that occasionally the cheaper Pro Micro's from China have had their USB data line resistors miss-pick-and-placed, and instead of both being 22R, one of them ends up being 330R. Very rare, but it has occurred. Causes flakey data connections to the PC, obviously - can be borderline depending on cable length and so forth. Just thought you'd find it useful.
Nice review. I've been using a pair of Nano V3 clones for over a year now and so far had no problems. There are even cheaper yellow boards now(~$4.50-$5.00) but I haven't tried those yet. About polyfuse in Nano: It does not have one, but there is an unintentional/accidental over-current protection - a diode at the start of power feed blows @ over 1A. Found that out after I accidentally shorted VCC and one of the output pins... Had to replace that diode with a jumper and it came to life again. Also serves as a nice little AVR programmer.
Tony B My Skottschky diode blew as well. Was still doing OK but couldnt feed it through USB anymore. I replaced the diode (freakin small) and worked again.
Excellent videos Julian. I very much appreciate the time, effort, and quality of information you are providing (and your methodical approach). One other benefit besides cost of the pro mini's seems to be the low power consumption. With a cheap 5v regulator feeding the raw pin, and no onboard USB while running, it only pulls about 20mili-amp. I have a switching reg I want to try, I think that might lower the draw down to 10-15milli-amp. If high efficiency is a goal, these mini's work well.
I see nothing wrong with buying the clones. They work just as good and Arduino Foundation actually posts their schematics on their site for all to use and state that they give authorization to sell clones. I myself have made a few DIY Arduinos.
I'm a big fan of the Pro Micro boards but my first one had pins 8 and 9 wired together which was a pain. I needed 12 digital pins in total but it's perfectly possible to use the "analogue" pins so even though I effectively lost one pin I can still get my project to work
Hi Julian. I love your videos. You might have already discovered this along the way but you can control both Tx and Rx leds by writing low on pins 17 and 30. At 7:07 you mentioned only pin 17 but maybe you can try pin 20 and see if you get the desired results. Thanks
There are cheaper clones now, the cheapest I've ever found were $1.79 for a Nano. But yea, we should also support the developers and hope that it will remain open-source for many more years.
Yep, you can get a nano for less than 2,00 euro/dollar. Have bought 2 of them at a German computer club last night. It's a lot of fun ! If you wan't to protect your pc's USB bus, just buy a cheap simple USB hub with power adapter. You can also buy a bread-board for 1,80.... so, with less than 5,00 you can start to learn how it works. If you like it, you can always buy the 'real' board and join the community.
You can use an arduino uno as the programmer and load the boot loader. the sketch is in the arduino ide. I use this to program many things including the ATtiny line of chips.
"CHEAP" as in not expensive. I fly RC and the exact same capable receiver costs literally 10% the price. Which would you use? I do have a "legitimate" Arduino and it works great. My affordable "Cheap" ones work great too. Cheap does not mean sh*t, they just won't break your bank.
Couldn't agree more. Cheap as in not expensive. As long as it works - who cares? The choice is yours - whether you want to buy a more expensive brand or buying one that suits your budget.
Just picked one of these up off eBay looking forward to seeing how well they work! (or if they work! hopefully FTDI is no longer an issue!) Julian are the FTDI issues fixed regarding the bricking of the boards?
Many thanks. Also I'm hoping it will be possible to change the clock source from ceramic resonator to internal RC oscillator and slow it right down. This would greatly reduce the power consumption.
You can always edit the arduino_pins.h (or is that pins_arduino.h) and add the missing LED pin as a new "D" number so you can control both of the leds on the micro.
Julian, thank you for providing me the info that the chinese nano is similar with duemilanove! I've been trying to get this crap working and waisted hours of time googleing without getting the board working. Now it is working, thanks to you!
I usually use a raspberry pi to program and load the boot loader onto the atmega328 as standalone. If you get it working with raspberry pi it is super easy to program the boot loader as I am using the pins directly to the raspberry.
Greetings Julian! First, thanks for the video! I am new to Arduino and sometimes I come across some code (sketch) that goes beyond the memory of the Arduino Uno / Nano, etc. and forces us to use the Arduino Mega, but this, in addition to being a very large plate, it is also very expensive; what your tips or suggestions for this? Some standalone micro-controller, for example? Thank you very much
Great vid - I LOVE these cheap little Pro Minis.Having bought a "proper" Uno in a starter kit months ago, I was a bit nervous about getting too experimental. Now I have 3 Pro Minis and a programmer for £10, and they're great for breadboarding too - line it all up right and get the pin numbers right and I've got a £2.50 pro mini running a £3 20x2 LCD on a £2 breadboard with only 3 jumper wires needed, all for half the price I paid for a basic LCD 10 years ago, You gotta love progress! (PS - subbed!)
The Pro Minis are great - price is dropping by the day - nearly down to £2 each. I want to put one on the back of a tiny 128x64 OLED display. It would be the smallest thing I ever made! No idea what it would do. Thanks for the sub.
Julian Ilett Funny you should mention OLEDs - I'm having an absolute nightmare with a Winstar 100x32 graphic OLED. I'm using a Pro Mini with one of those £10 8 channel logic analyzer clones and just learning about Visual Micro (the alternative/improved/advanced Arduino IDE). Bit of a learning curve, but I might do a video when I'm "there".
I read some stuff about rolling back the FTDI drivers, but couldn't find a way to do it. Maybe it's a Windows 8 issue. I'm using a USBTinyISP to program via the ISP header, and the bootloader seems to transfer, but it won't run. I just get a blinking LED D13 (but not the 1second blink). Next I'll try the USBASP programmer. All good fun!
True, I suspect it will be closer to the RasPi price point but maybe still a bit less. I understood that it would be compatible with most shields but I might be wrong. I'm interested to see if Intel can pull the Galileo off, but I still think the Tre is worth taking a look at.
definitely you must have at least one original Arduino . To learn if you are a beginner. To validate your programming by checking if your program is wrong or the Arduinos like board
I've just bought a Chinese made Pro Mini on eBay for £2 and it's working brilliantly. I've standardised on the SiLabs CP2102 interface with both Linux and Windows. I thought I'd try one of these cheap boards and although great for prototyping, I'll still be mainly using ATMega328 with UNO bootloader for projects (around £1 a pop).
Note that the programming heads pinout on your two Pro MINI boards are different. The $1.54 Ebay 'Pro Mini' board i got is like one of your two. It has the MINI and not the Mini Pro pinout on the RX, Tx, Gnd, 5+
I liked this excellent orientation towards the miniaturized possibilities of one the Greatest open source uC ie Arduino. Agree, we should have At Least One Original, just as a thanks to the originators(they've done a great job) Even these"clones" are an original idea in itself,.. so small yet fully functional.
Help I can't program my pro mini,I'm planning to set it on 3,3 v but if I tried I can't I'm using Mac OS 10 I also downloaded the driver.And I use uno to program I also did remove the at mega 328 .P,s help
Julian - I think you said that the polyfuse is to prevent a short on the arduino board from frying your computer. It appears that the Nano does not have a polyfuse (according to the arduino forum). And they seem to be saying that it is there on the Uno to protect the regulator. And that a short on the Nano will fry a diode on the board (but apparently not harm the host computer). The difference between frying my computer as opposed to a part on the Nano is huge. Can you look into it a bit ? The Nano is so nice to use with its prototyping board that I would like to use it if possible.
+youpattube1 I think computers are protected themselves against overcurrent on the USB outputs. It makes for more sense for the source of the power to be protected, since only it knows what its capabilities are. Even on quite an old XP machine it is possible to provoke Windows into popping up an error message about a USB port having 'experienced a power surge', which is when the socket has sensed an overload. My old laptop has done that a couple of times when I have plugged in the Arduino Nano to the USB a bit carelessly!
I have done every possible short circuit to my usb. It works fine. Sometimes you need to reboot to get ir working again. Pretty much the same with atmega. It is really difficult to destroy one with 3.3V
Hi, I have the Pro-Micro board. However it only work after I uploaded code. When I disconnected and connect back the power, it will not work until I upload the code. Do you have any idea how to solve this? thanks
I am trying to program a pro mini based board, the old CP2102 you have you needed to break out the recet from the chip, do you need to do that with the black one you showed 08:15 ? Or how do you need to do it on that borard?
You don't have to use an USB-to-Serial Converter, you can also use an ISP-Programmer and connect it to the board! If you don't have the bootloader, you have to use the ISP-Programmer.
w/ Ardeuino Nano (my first ever arduino!) a lot of them don't have polyfuses so if you accidentally short something to ground you tend to blow the backside out the Schottky Diode (usually underside, near the USB) Just a head's up in case you're ever fixing one xD
You can also take a real arduino board, remove the chip and jumper the rx and tx wires from it to another device with a bootloader and forego the additional ftdi board.
Hmm, that is weird. It always happens on a transition, original movie file is OK. It must be happening during upload (my upload bandwidth is very slow). Time to upgrade to fibre-optic broadband I think.
I got one of those Pro Minis, too (not exactly the same). Whatch out what you get from China though. Although advertised as a 5V version, mine had a 3,3V regulator on board. Meaning that when supplying it through VIN (the raw input) it would run at 3,3V and thereby out of spec for 16MHz (which the onboard crystal has). It also means that the IOs are 3,3V then.
could you tell me where did you find the 3.3v arduino? On eBay the cheapest I found costs three times the cheapest 5v. Also, is it 8mhz or 16mhz? Thanks!
Francesco Capano It is marketed as an 5V/16MHz arduino and not a 3,3V one. They just f*** up when putting the regulator on it an now it's running at 3,3V and 16MHz. The AVR datasheet states that for 16MHz you should have around 4V. So there are no 3,3V/16MHz Arduinos (at least pro minis). Especially the internal EEPROM is very touchy when "overclocked". So you don't want that board. Btw. almost every AVR can run at 3,3V. Just exchange the voltage regulator.
Hello, these prices are very good for mass production, are these inexpensive arduinos safe ? Can I legaly ans ethically create a product based on a nano v3 at 3$ and sell the product (a clock, a controlable light or else) ? Thank you and sorry for my english..
The nano clones are normally best, and there are a few tricks to getting the bootloaders on, it's normally just the arduino software settings for the arduino comms. I've done it before, just need to research it.
Yes I agree with buying genuine, but I also buy Chinese. I have used a Chinese Uno,Mega, and Micro pro, all without any problems. I really like the micro pro with 5 interrupts which are great for encoders and robotics. I started with just one genuine Uno, and had to dismantle every project before starting another, the Clones are now so cheap you can have many in your box. A Uno from China with data cable can cost just £4 delivered the UK. Oh and thanks good video.
OT: On your latest videos the sound seems a bit weird - after some time (here ~0:57) the left audio channel completely disappears. Seems to happen with all formats on youtube so i guess its related to your video editor. Would be great if you could have a look.
I'm trying to build something that receives a value from a sensor and sends it to the internet every 5 minutes. Just that. Can you advice me about what model of arduino board and wi-fi transceiver (or its correspondent clones) would I need for doing such thing?
For every one cheap Chinese "Arduino" I buy, I buy two made-in-Italy-Arduinos...so I truely support your statement! :) Besides I only buy the Chinese ones to get the free usb cables and electronics that come with them.
Nice video explanation, tx! Btw, what does one call that green board/matt you have in the background - I'd like to get something like that but nobody can tell me what it is? :)
I don't understand undercutting the original supplier on single unit items. I mean, the extra time you'll invest to fix issues with the Chinese clone are going to be more trouble than the 5 extra euros for the original item. And if you get a single defective one and have to replace it, all savings go out the window. Or if you have to buy an ISP programmer to flash a bootloader. I understand saving 5 euros on a mass production item but on a single? Always go for quality.
The socalled "cheap" examples are kinda high priced, if you buy 10 at a time from china you can get them at 50% the price on ebay. Atleast the mini's and nano's. And they are excelent alternatives to plc controllers :D And to clear my conscience, I'm reselling original Arduino units :D
I a friend gave me a for birthday "ATmega328P Nano V3 Controller Board Compatible Arduino Impr". I cant seem to get it to show up on the arduino editor on my linux machine. I wonder if its because it does not have a bootloader. How did you fix that?
Check if you have the drivers for the USB chip that is located under the nano, is should be CHxxx (xxx as numbers) google up the chip drivers and install them. Should work.
one cool thing you can do to get arduinos cheap, is to go to a store that sells them. online from the standard store, unos are 24.99, while at the store, they are about 19.99.
how do i Connect switches to the Nano V3.0?I men if i have a switch and i use a red lead and a black lead from each pole inn to the chip and then from the chip to the computer? Can you do that With it or?Pleas help me out someone i am stuck and have used over 300 pounds on a Project!!!Can it do the same as the 2120 Toggle Pulse Generator?Help!!!!!!!!!!
+Benjamin blanchard if you are wondering how to use a switch to go to a digital pin on the Arduino, put one wire to +5v and one wire to the pin on the Arduino. Then put a resistor around 1k ohm from the pin to ground (as a pull-down resistor).
I agree with the idea that we buy at least one original product for to that the project can continue. But I must also say that I ordered two Arduino Micro Ardunio.cc on site. One of the two was defective and support refused to help me. Since I ordered copies of that and it seems to make no problem. Except perhaps with the FTDI drivers. If you have a problem to the programm the Ardunio Nano, try with the old version of the FTDI drivers (CDM20824).
On the pro micro with an atmegaxx8ux 14 15 16 are the hardware SPI pins which are 11,12,13 on the atmegaxx8 - that would explain the inconvenience. Have you tried to upload a program bigger then 6500bytes? well be careful with that, it seems that those cheap arduinos aren't able of storing the expected 32kb but only about 6.5kb. I even fried one and had to reupload the bootloader.But in general those cheapos are great for midsized projects. When you are looking for cheap 3.3V boards, try to search for 8mhz instead of 3.3v on ebay - with those you can easily add sd cards, tft boards, networking stuff, rfid reader - u name it.
could you please elaborate on the pro micro, does the usb link get lost permanently upon reset, or ... ? do you think it would it be suitable for a beginner?
I'd avoid the pro micro if you're a beginner - it will probably have the same disconnect issues as the Leonardo. I'd recommend the Nano, or the Uno if you want an official board.
Once you get used to the software and the hardware, come back to the Pro Micro. Though it pis missing pins it is sooooo small! It was my first Arduino so I have a soft spot for it.
Does the Nano 3.0 still work ? All mine died, i.e the USB chip suddenly was not recognised anymore so programming/debugging via USB stopped working The reason for that is that the Ftdi chip is a clone/counterfeit chip and ftdi updated their drivers via Microsoft update and the new drivers reprogram the clone chips id from 6001 to 0000 and then no driver matches the id. There is a workaround to keep it working that involves using older drivers and changed inf-files but that is another discussion.
Had the exact same thing happen to me, I've tried everything, but can't get it to work. I've heard you can use an uno to program it but haven't got around to trying it yet. Have you had any luck?
From what I've read, this was caused by Microsoft and FTDI pushing out new drivers which detected and disabled counterfeit FTDI usb chips. All the chinese clones appear to use fake chips If you get the clones which use the CH340 usb chip, you should be fine.
I have been getting the Pro Minis on eBay for $2.00USD and they seem to work fine once I got the FTDI working. I am trying to build "Moving Rainbow" kits for kids for under $10.00USD. I can only do this for kids if we keep the prices low. Thanks!
I also had problems installing the old drivers. But I found a AutoInstall. You have to uninstall the 2.08.28 version and start the EXE to install the 8.02.24 version without any problem ... I don't know where I got it but if you want I send you by email... If it works.
If your not scared of trowing in the store names. Go check aliexpress ;) realy great stores and after 2 weeks you get them realy cheap. (watch out for fake IC's and fake parts.) also, you can contact anyone of them with questions and you can get your money back if there are problems, or get a discount on other chinese stuff. Just take a look, buy a arduino for a dollar or euro to test and try not to order from stores with low or no feedback. ;)
+Nico Vijlbrief (CodeAsm) feedback doesnt realy matter ive ordered a 2x digispark a nano a uno a raspberry pi 2 a teensy 2.0 and other stuff everything i have ordered so far has came, aliexpress is just great
I've got most of the elements in place, but I want to do some more reading on the AVR's bootloader mechanism - the separate memory areas and protection bits etc.
Outstanding videos Julian. Thank you for taking the time to produce your them and keep up the good work!
Good video. As a bit of info for you and your subscribers, I've noticed that occasionally the cheaper Pro Micro's from China have had their USB data line resistors miss-pick-and-placed, and instead of both being 22R, one of them ends up being 330R. Very rare, but it has occurred. Causes flakey data connections to the PC, obviously - can be borderline depending on cable length and so forth. Just thought you'd find it useful.
Nice review. I've been using a pair of Nano V3 clones for over a year now and so far had no problems. There are even cheaper yellow boards now(~$4.50-$5.00) but I haven't tried those yet.
About polyfuse in Nano: It does not have one, but there is an unintentional/accidental over-current protection - a diode at the start of power feed blows @ over 1A. Found that out after I accidentally shorted VCC and one of the output pins...
Had to replace that diode with a jumper and it came to life again.
Also serves as a nice little AVR programmer.
Tony B My Skottschky diode blew as well. Was still doing OK but couldnt feed it through USB anymore. I replaced the diode (freakin small) and worked again.
A very clear, and very informative post. Thank you. I learnt a lot
Excellent videos Julian. I very much appreciate the time, effort, and quality of information you are providing (and your methodical approach). One other benefit besides cost of the pro mini's seems to be the low power consumption. With a cheap 5v regulator feeding the raw pin, and no onboard USB while running, it only pulls about 20mili-amp. I have a switching reg I want to try, I think that might lower the draw down to 10-15milli-amp. If high efficiency is a goal, these mini's work well.
Thank you - very kind. Views are increasing steadily. I have lots of ideas for more videos.
I see nothing wrong with buying the clones. They work just as good and Arduino Foundation actually posts their schematics on their site for all to use and state that they give authorization to sell clones. I myself have made a few DIY Arduinos.
Hi Julian,
I am definitely agreed you with you supporting the folks at Arduino.
I'm a big fan of the Pro Micro boards but my first one had pins 8 and 9 wired together which was a pain. I needed 12 digital pins in total but it's perfectly possible to use the "analogue" pins so even though I effectively lost one pin I can still get my project to work
Excellent video! Thank you for the explanation!
I love your videos, it's a mystery to me why you don't get more views. Keep up the good work!
Hi Julian. I love your videos.
You might have already discovered this along the way but you can control both Tx and Rx leds by writing low on pins 17 and 30.
At 7:07 you mentioned only pin 17 but maybe you can try pin 20 and see if you get the desired results.
Thanks
There are cheaper clones now, the cheapest I've ever found were $1.79 for a Nano. But yea, we should also support the developers and hope that it will remain open-source for many more years.
Yep, you can get a nano for less than 2,00 euro/dollar. Have bought 2 of them at a German computer club last night. It's a lot of fun !
If you wan't to protect your pc's USB bus, just buy a cheap simple USB hub with power adapter. You can also buy a bread-board for 1,80.... so, with less than 5,00 you can start to learn how it works. If you like it, you can always buy the 'real' board and join the community.
Wonderful, you have just gained a subscriber. :D
Callum Griffin Thank you
You can use an arduino uno as the programmer and load the boot loader. the sketch is in the arduino ide. I use this to program many things including the ATtiny line of chips.
"CHEAP" as in not expensive. I fly RC and the exact same capable receiver costs literally 10% the price. Which would you use? I do have a "legitimate" Arduino and it works great. My affordable "Cheap" ones work great too. Cheap does not mean sh*t, they just won't break your bank.
Couldn't agree more. Cheap as in not expensive. As long as it works - who cares? The choice is yours - whether you want to buy a more expensive brand or buying one that suits your budget.
Many thanks for letting me know.
hola
buen video yo tambien tengo algunos interesantes
*Decodificar Códigos de mando a distancia con Attiny13: ua-cam.com/video/yBfnU-WX1BQ/v-deo.html
Just picked one of these up off eBay looking forward to seeing how well they work! (or if they work! hopefully FTDI is no longer an issue!) Julian are the FTDI issues fixed regarding the bricking of the boards?
Many thanks. Also I'm hoping it will be possible to change the clock source from ceramic resonator to internal RC oscillator and slow it right down. This would greatly reduce the power consumption.
You can always edit the arduino_pins.h (or is that pins_arduino.h) and add the missing LED pin as a new "D" number so you can control both of the leds on the micro.
Pro micro also has pins which can be used as both digital or analog. It has 9 analog pins in total
Julian, thank you for providing me the info that the chinese nano is similar with duemilanove! I've been trying to get this crap working and waisted hours of time googleing without getting the board working. Now it is working, thanks to you!
I usually use a raspberry pi to program and load the boot loader onto the atmega328 as standalone. If you get it working with raspberry pi it is super easy to program the boot loader as I am using the pins directly to the raspberry.
Greetings Julian! First, thanks for the video!
I am new to Arduino and sometimes I come across some code (sketch) that goes beyond the memory of the Arduino Uno / Nano, etc. and forces us to use the Arduino Mega, but this, in addition to being a very large plate, it is also very expensive; what your tips or suggestions for this? Some standalone micro-controller, for example? Thank you very much
Great vid - I LOVE these cheap little Pro Minis.Having bought a "proper" Uno in a starter kit months ago, I was a bit nervous about getting too experimental. Now I have 3 Pro Minis and a programmer for £10, and they're great for breadboarding too - line it all up right and get the pin numbers right and I've got a £2.50 pro mini running a £3 20x2 LCD on a £2 breadboard with only 3 jumper wires needed, all for half the price I paid for a basic LCD 10 years ago, You gotta love progress! (PS - subbed!)
The Pro Minis are great - price is dropping by the day - nearly down to £2 each. I want to put one on the back of a tiny 128x64 OLED display. It would be the smallest thing I ever made! No idea what it would do. Thanks for the sub.
Julian Ilett Funny you should mention OLEDs - I'm having an absolute nightmare with a Winstar 100x32 graphic OLED. I'm using a Pro Mini with one of those £10 8 channel logic analyzer clones and just learning about Visual Micro (the alternative/improved/advanced Arduino IDE). Bit of a learning curve, but I might do a video when I'm "there".
Thanks for showing this Arduino example... I might be down that road for weeks, with magic smoke !
I read some stuff about rolling back the FTDI drivers, but couldn't find a way to do it. Maybe it's a Windows 8 issue. I'm using a USBTinyISP to program via the ISP header, and the bootloader seems to transfer, but it won't run. I just get a blinking LED D13 (but not the 1second blink). Next I'll try the USBASP programmer. All good fun!
Very helpful overview. Than you for that :-)
True, I suspect it will be closer to the RasPi price point but maybe still a bit less. I understood that it would be compatible with most shields but I might be wrong. I'm interested to see if Intel can pull the Galileo off, but I still think the Tre is worth taking a look at.
Good video, very helpful !!!
definitely you must have at least one original Arduino .
To learn if you are a beginner.
To validate your programming by checking if your program is wrong or the Arduinos like board
I've just bought a Chinese made Pro Mini on eBay for £2 and it's working brilliantly. I've standardised on the SiLabs CP2102 interface with both Linux and Windows. I thought I'd try one of these cheap boards and although great for prototyping, I'll still be mainly using ATMega328 with UNO bootloader for projects (around £1 a pop).
Note that the programming heads pinout on your two Pro MINI boards are different.
The $1.54 Ebay 'Pro Mini' board i got is like one of your two. It has the MINI and not the Mini Pro pinout on the RX, Tx, Gnd, 5+
I liked this excellent orientation towards the miniaturized possibilities of one the Greatest open source uC ie Arduino. Agree, we should have At Least One Original, just as a thanks to the originators(they've done a great job) Even these"clones" are an original idea in itself,.. so small yet fully functional.
Julian, you do not need to buy a USB to serial board, just remove the 328 from the UNO and link the pins over to the clone that does not have a USB...
Help I can't program my pro mini,I'm planning to set it on 3,3 v but if I tried I can't I'm using Mac OS 10 I also downloaded the driver.And I use uno to program I also did remove the at mega 328 .P,s help
@5:50 for the pro micro, what is the component between the USB port and poly fuse, the black thingy
Julian -
I think you said that the polyfuse is to prevent a short on the arduino board from frying your computer. It appears that the Nano does not have a polyfuse (according to the arduino forum). And they seem to be saying that it is there on the Uno to protect the regulator. And that a short on the Nano will fry a diode on the board (but apparently not harm the host computer).
The difference between frying my computer as opposed to a part on the Nano is huge. Can you look into it a bit ? The Nano is so nice to use with its prototyping board that I would like to use it if possible.
+youpattube1 I think computers are protected themselves against overcurrent on the USB outputs. It makes for more sense for the source of the power to be protected, since only it knows what its capabilities are. Even on quite an old XP machine it is possible to provoke Windows into popping up an error message about a USB port having 'experienced a power surge', which is when the socket has sensed an overload. My old laptop has done that a couple of times when I have plugged in the Arduino Nano to the USB a bit carelessly!
I have done every possible short circuit to my usb. It works fine. Sometimes you need to reboot to get ir working again. Pretty much the same with atmega. It is really difficult to destroy one with 3.3V
Can the mini pro be used to interface to GSM module and use the Arduino library codes?
Hi, I have the Pro-Micro board. However it only work after I uploaded code. When I disconnected and connect back the power, it will not work until I upload the code. Do you have any idea how to solve this? thanks
With the pro micro you should make a video of say a costom mouse or something mabye keyboard?
Arduino Nano as far as I know got underneath not 5V regulator but 3.3V, 5V goes directly from USB .... am I right ?
I am trying to program a pro mini based board, the old CP2102 you have you needed to break out the recet from the chip, do you need to do that with the black one you showed 08:15 ? Or how do you need to do it on that borard?
Open source can be wonderful, Arduino is one of those cases.
You don't have to use an USB-to-Serial Converter, you can also use an ISP-Programmer and connect it to the board! If you don't have the bootloader, you have to use the ISP-Programmer.
w/ Ardeuino Nano (my first ever arduino!) a lot of them don't have polyfuses so if you accidentally short something to ground you tend to blow the backside out the Schottky Diode (usually underside, near the USB)
Just a head's up in case you're ever fixing one xD
Hi. Good Works. Did you have the chance to post the bootloader to nano? Best Rgs. Milton
FYI the pro micro has 9 ADC channels accessible, look at a pinout diagram for more info
Hello when I connect to ch arduino gsm a6 module why it is not understand AT command. Driver is present
You can also take a real arduino board, remove the chip and jumper the rx and tx wires from it to another device with a bootloader and forego the additional ftdi board.
with FTDI boards for around 1 euro that seems hardly worth the trouble
Hmm, that is weird. It always happens on a transition, original movie file is OK. It must be happening during upload (my upload bandwidth is very slow). Time to upgrade to fibre-optic broadband I think.
Bought a Uno clone for about $11, came with a USB cable. Works great.
rlrsk8r1 you have been ripped off :-) they go for 2.50 (without cable) and for 3-4 with cable
i'm waiting mine to come, I got 2 leonardo, 1 esp8266, 1 uno and 1 pro micro for about $14
you have to download the driver, the usb controller is cheaper, I bought 1 and damaged the bootloader. I could use another as ISP and repair it
Do you know if the cheap Chinese "Arduino Uno R3" has the same flaws or more, like these here have?
I got one of those Pro Minis, too (not exactly the same). Whatch out what you get from China though. Although advertised as a 5V version, mine had a 3,3V regulator on board. Meaning that when supplying it through VIN (the raw input) it would run at 3,3V and thereby out of spec for 16MHz (which the onboard crystal has). It also means that the IOs are 3,3V then.
could you tell me where did you find the 3.3v arduino? On eBay the cheapest I found costs three times the cheapest 5v. Also, is it 8mhz or 16mhz? Thanks!
Francesco Capano
It is marketed as an 5V/16MHz arduino and not a 3,3V one. They just f*** up when putting the regulator on it an now it's running at 3,3V and 16MHz. The AVR datasheet states that for 16MHz you should have around 4V. So there are no 3,3V/16MHz Arduinos (at least pro minis). Especially the internal EEPROM is very touchy when "overclocked". So you don't want that board.
Btw. almost every AVR can run at 3,3V. Just exchange the voltage regulator.
At 1:35 ... not a ceramic resonator, it's either a crystal or a crystal oscillator.
Hello, these prices are very good for mass production,
are these inexpensive arduinos safe ?
Can I legaly ans ethically create a product based on a nano v3 at 3$ and sell the product (a clock, a controlable light or else) ?
Thank you and sorry for my english..
I like the Pro mini the best, it fit in anything....
The nano clones are normally best, and there are a few tricks to getting the bootloaders on, it's normally just the arduino software settings for the arduino comms. I've done it before, just need to research it.
Banggood is a groovy place to get all of this stuff and sensors. Got a Due clone for $8 USD and some wireless RF chips for something like $1.50 USD.
Yes I agree with buying genuine, but I also buy Chinese. I have used a Chinese Uno,Mega, and Micro pro, all without any problems.
I really like the micro pro with 5 interrupts which are great for encoders and robotics.
I started with just one genuine Uno, and had to dismantle every project before starting another, the Clones are now so cheap you can have many in your box.
A Uno from China with data cable can cost just £4 delivered the UK.
Oh and thanks good video.
thanks dude!! appreciated
OT: On your latest videos the sound seems a bit weird - after some time (here ~0:57) the left audio channel completely disappears. Seems to happen with all formats on youtube so i guess its related to your video editor. Would be great if you could have a look.
I like the Significance of the Ceramic resonator
So does Alice “Alice WTF Is Alice”
glad to know her restaurant is on EBay.
😂
God Bless.
I'm trying to build something that receives a value from a sensor and sends it to the internet every 5 minutes. Just that. Can you advice me about what model of arduino board and wi-fi transceiver (or its correspondent clones) would I need for doing such thing?
You might want to look into the ESP8266 wifi modules. Just about any arduino should be able to run it.
I bought a genuine Arduino UNO board last night.. And I am very blessed to have it.. Cost me 24$ by the way.
For every one cheap Chinese "Arduino" I buy, I buy two made-in-Italy-Arduinos...so I truely support your statement! :)
Besides I only buy the Chinese ones to get the free usb cables and electronics that come with them.
did you ever get the bootloader on?
Nice video explanation, tx! Btw, what does one call that green board/matt you have in the background - I'd like to get something like that but nobody can tell me what it is? :)
www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional--Self-Healing-Cutting/dp/B0015AOIYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422465701&sr=8-1&keywords=cutting+mat
Thank you! :)
Like the Arduino Tre?
Hmm can't this this seen on a mac only as USB2.0-Serial and downloaded those mac drivers in comments below! Any other tips to get this working?
Fixed it for Yosimite OS X
Install the CH340 driver
Run the command in Terminal: sudo nvram boot-args="kext-dev-mode=1"
Reboot
Does anybody know how to load a hex file onto the pro micro?
how do u flash the pro mini one i donot want to do wrong connection
I don't understand undercutting the original supplier on single unit items.
I mean, the extra time you'll invest to fix issues with the Chinese clone are going to be more trouble than the 5 extra euros for the original item. And if you get a single defective one and have to replace it, all savings go out the window. Or if you have to buy an ISP programmer to flash a bootloader.
I understand saving 5 euros on a mass production item but on a single? Always go for quality.
Can nobody pronounce Duemilanove ? I'm not italian or anything and I can still say it :P
The clones are just as good
The socalled "cheap" examples are kinda high priced, if you buy 10 at a time from china you can get them at 50% the price on ebay. Atleast the mini's and nano's.
And they are excelent alternatives to plc controllers :D
And to clear my conscience, I'm reselling original Arduino units :D
***** even per piece often much much cheaper. But true I got 10 pro miniś for 15 euro
Can anyone check if the Atmel parts are genuine on those boards.If not,I'll do it once mine arrive.
I a friend gave me a for birthday "ATmega328P Nano V3 Controller Board Compatible Arduino Impr". I cant seem to get it to show up on the arduino editor on my linux machine. I wonder if its because it does not have a bootloader. How did you fix that?
Check if you have the drivers for the USB chip that is located under the nano, is should be CHxxx (xxx as numbers) google up the chip drivers and install them. Should work.
one cool thing you can do to get arduinos cheap, is to go to a store that sells them. online from the standard store, unos are 24.99, while at the store, they are about 19.99.
how do i Connect switches to the Nano V3.0?I men if i have a switch and i use a red lead and a black lead from each pole inn to the chip and then from the chip to the computer? Can you do that With it or?Pleas help me out someone i am stuck and have used over 300 pounds on a Project!!!Can it do the same as the 2120 Toggle Pulse Generator?Help!!!!!!!!!!
+Benjamin blanchard
if you are wondering how to use a switch to go to a digital pin on the Arduino, put one wire to +5v and one wire to the pin on the Arduino. Then put a resistor around 1k ohm from the pin to ground (as a pull-down resistor).
ok thanks dude ;)
I found an Arduino Nano clone for 99p! Just had to for the hell of it!
I agree with the idea that we buy at least one original product for to that the project can continue. But I must also say that I ordered two Arduino Micro Ardunio.cc on site. One of the two was defective and support refused to help me. Since I ordered copies of that and it seems to make no problem. Except perhaps with the FTDI drivers.
If you have a problem to the programm the Ardunio Nano, try with the old version of the FTDI drivers (CDM20824).
On the pro micro with an atmegaxx8ux 14 15 16 are the hardware SPI pins which are 11,12,13 on the atmegaxx8 - that would explain the inconvenience. Have you tried to upload a program bigger then 6500bytes? well be careful with that, it seems that those cheap arduinos aren't able of storing the expected 32kb but only about 6.5kb. I even fried one and had to reupload the bootloader.But in general those cheapos are great for midsized projects. When you are looking for cheap 3.3V boards, try to search for 8mhz instead of 3.3v on ebay - with those you can easily add sd cards, tft boards, networking stuff, rfid reader - u name it.
nevermind the stuff about the storage, I ran code that was oversized for the 2kb sram, now using progmem it works like a charme!
could you please elaborate on the pro micro, does the usb link get lost permanently upon reset, or ... ? do you think it would it be suitable for a beginner?
I'd avoid the pro micro if you're a beginner - it will probably have the same disconnect issues as the Leonardo. I'd recommend the Nano, or the Uno if you want an official board.
Once you get used to the software and the hardware, come back to the Pro Micro. Though it pis missing pins it is sooooo small! It was my first Arduino so I have a soft spot for it.
hi!can u help me...i'm buy arduino nano v3 on banggood but when connect the arduino to my pc...not work drivers not found..
help me please!
Vitalie Stefanco FTDI or CH340?
Julian Ilett CH340OG
Vitalie Stefanco What version of Windows do you have?
Julian Ilett with windows 8.1 work,but on windows 7 don't work...
Vitalie Stefanco I understand that for Windows 7, you need to install drivers. Download them from the manufacturers website.
Does the Nano 3.0 still work ?
All mine died, i.e the USB chip suddenly was not recognised anymore so programming/debugging via USB stopped working
The reason for that is that the Ftdi chip is a clone/counterfeit chip and ftdi updated their drivers via Microsoft update and the new drivers reprogram the clone chips id from 6001 to 0000 and then no driver matches the id.
There is a workaround to keep it working that involves using older drivers and changed inf-files but that is another discussion.
HjuvikLabs I'm pretty sure mine still work, although I'm using the CH340 Nanos more now.
Had the exact same thing happen to me, I've tried everything, but can't get it to work. I've heard you can use an uno to program it but haven't got around to trying it yet. Have you had any luck?
diete103 A fix/workaround is described here:
forum.arduino.cc/index.php?PHPSESSID=lv6pm8v3qtvano37875ccue8s7&topic=270175.msg1909690#msg1909690
From what I've read, this was caused by Microsoft and FTDI pushing out new drivers which detected and disabled counterfeit FTDI usb chips. All the chinese clones appear to use fake chips If you get the clones which use the CH340 usb chip, you should be fine.
You don't damage your computer by shorting 5V line to ground or either of data lines btw...
Gragagrogog , I blew a 4-way front-mounted USB hub by spilling wine on my PC tower.
I have been getting the Pro Minis on eBay for $2.00USD and they seem to work fine once I got the FTDI working. I am trying to build "Moving Rainbow" kits for kids for under $10.00USD. I can only do this for kids if we keep the prices low. Thanks!
Is it ment that the autdio cuts out at 0:58 ?
It's a problem with the Movie Studio app on Android
I also had problems installing the old drivers. But I found a AutoInstall. You have to uninstall the 2.08.28 version and start the EXE to install the 8.02.24 version without any problem ... I don't know where I got it but if you want I send you by email... If it works.
If your not scared of trowing in the store names. Go check aliexpress ;) realy great stores and after 2 weeks you get them realy cheap. (watch out for fake IC's and fake parts.) also, you can contact anyone of them with questions and you can get your money back if there are problems, or get a discount on other chinese stuff. Just take a look, buy a arduino for a dollar or euro to test and try not to order from stores with low or no feedback. ;)
+Nico Vijlbrief (CodeAsm) feedback doesnt realy matter ive ordered a 2x digispark a nano a uno a raspberry pi 2 a teensy 2.0 and other stuff everything i have ordered so far has came, aliexpress is just great
almost 100k.... you can feel that silver play button already? lol
FYI, the official Arduino Nano has a PTC fuse on the bottom side. arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/ArduinoNanoBack_3_lg.jpg
Try Aliexpress.com instead of Ebay. Much lower prices but longer shipping times
You do know you can program a Pro Mini using an UNO.... You don't have to use a serial to USB adapter...
Any luck with that boot loader tutorial?
I've got most of the elements in place, but I want to do some more reading on the AVR's bootloader mechanism - the separate memory areas and protection bits etc.
Very good. I Subbed man, you have a very informative channel. Thanks for sharing.
A....POlly Fuse.... It found that funny for some reason. 1:56
Jesus, it took me 5 minutes to research burning a bootloader using another arduino. And another 5 minutes to wire it all up.